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NORTH    PEA  I 


.,    J1,S12    FT. 


THIS    PEAK,    ASCENDED    BY    MISS    PECK,    SEPTEMBER    2,    190S,    IS    1,500 
FEET   HIGHER    THAN    MT.    MCKINLEY. 


THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 


THE 

SOUTH    AMERICAN 
TOUR 

A  Descriptive  Guide 

BY 

ANNIE  S,  PECK,  M.A. 

Author  of  "A  Search  for  tlie  Apex  of  America" 


ILLUSTRATED     CHIEFLY    FROM 
PIIOTOGRA  rilS  B  Y  THE  A  UTIIOR 


NEW  AND  RKVISKD  KUll  ION 


NEW  YORK 

GEORGE  H.  DORAN  COMPANY 

1916 


Copyright,  1913, 
By  George  H.  Doran  Company 


Copyright,  1916, 
By  George  H.  Doran  Company 


INTRODUCTIOX 

I  congratulate  Miss  Annie  S.  Peck,  the  publisher  of  this 
book,  and  those  who  consult  or  read  it,  upon  the  preparation 
of  a  work  of  this  character.  Interest  in  Latin  America  is  now 
so  rapidly  growing  throughout  all  the  world,  and  especially 
in  the  United  States,  that  a  descriptive  guide-book  of  this  kind 
regarding  the  regions  commonly  visited  by  tourists  has  become 
an  actual  need;  such  a  work  by  Miss  Peck  is  a  practical 
and  timely  contribution  to  the  literature  of  the  day.  There 
are  few  persons  better  qualified  to  write  a  book  of  this  charac- 
ter. The  remarkable  explorations  which  ]\Iiss  Peck  has  un- 
dertaken in  the  most  difficult  sections  of  Latin  America,  and 
the  traveling  she  has  done  in  all  parts  of  it,  not  only  have 
I)r()vi(led  her  with  a  vast  fund  of  useful  information  about  the 
countries  of  South  America  but  give  especial  authority  to 
what  she  writes.  Her  book  contains  in  compact  form  an 
amount  of  definite  information  concerning  the  countries  con- 
sidered, which  should  place  it  in  the  forefront  of  works  of 
this  character. 

^        While,  of  course,  it  is  impossible  for  the  Pan  Ajuerican 
Union,  as  an  official  organization,  and  myself,  as  its  official 
head,  to  endorse  in  any  way  a  particular  l)ook  or  accept  re- 
sponsibility for  the  statements  and  views  it  contains,  it  gives 
me  real  pleasure,  from  a  personal  standpoint,  to  express  the 
hope  that  this  work  of  ]Miss  Peck  will  have  a  wide  circulation 
and  pi'ove  of  decided  help  in  promoting  travel  to  and  thi-ough 
^    the  Latin  American  countries. 
vS        The  Pan  American   Union,  which,  as  readers  of  this  book 
^   probably  know,  is  the  office  of  all  the  American  repul)lics — the 
United  States  and  its  twenty  sister  Latin  American  countries 
\a  — organized    and    maintained    by    them    for    the    i)urpo.se    of 
cleveloping   commerce,    friendship,    better    acquaintance,    and 
V^  peace  among  them  all,  is  doing  everything  possible  and  legit i- 
^.^mate  to  persuade  the  traveling  pul)lie  of  tiie   United   States 
1*^  and  Europe  to  visit  tlie  Latin  American  countries  and  l)ecome 
familiar  with  their  progress  and  development.     There  is  no 


45G571 


vi  INTRODUCTION 

influence  in  the  world  Ili;it  helps  iiioi'c  to  advance  friendship, 
comity,  and  coninicrcc!  among  countries  than  travel  back  and 
forth  ot"  their  representative  men  and  women.  Nearly  every 
person  who  visits  Latin  America  under  the  advice  of  the  Pan 
American  Union,  upon  his  or  her  return,  writes  a  letter  ex- 
pressing appreciation  that  this  opportunity  has  been  afforded 
of  seeing  these  wonderful  countries  of  the  south. 

In  conclusion,  I  would  observe  that  if  those  who  may  be- 
come interested  in  Latin  America  through  reading  ]\Iiss  Peck's 
book  desire  further  information  aliout  any  or  all  of  these  re- 
publics, the  Pan  American  Union  will  always  be  glad  to  pro- 
vide them  with  such  data  as  it  may  have  for  distribution. 

Jqiix  Barrett, 
Director  General  of  the  Pan  American  Union. 

Washington,  D.  C,  U.  S.  A., 
October,  21,  1913. 


FOR  EVEKV  OXE 

To  ALL  Americans  both  of  the  Xorthhuul  and  of  the  South 
this  book  with  due  modesty  is  inscribed,  in  the  hope  that  by 
iiR'iling  to  travel  and  ac(iuaintance  it  may  promote  cominer- 
cial  intercourse,  with  the  resulting  ties  of  mutual  benetit  and 
respect:  in  the  hope,  too,  that  the  slender  cord  now  feebly 
entwining  the  various  Republics  may  soon  draw  them  all  into 
more  intimate  relations  of  f riendshi]) ;  at  last  into  a  harmoni- 
ous Sisterhood,  in  which  neither  age  nor  size  shall  confer 
superior  rights,  but  mutual  confidence  based  upon  the  foun- 
dations of  justice  shall  insure  perpetual  peace. 

The  opportunity  is  here  improved  to  express  my  grateful 
acknowledgment  of  kindly  assistance  and  attentions  of  di- 
verse character,  received  throughout  my  travels  from  many 
of  my  own  countrymen,  from  Englishmen  invariably  inter- 
ested and  ready  to  aid,  and  from  tlie  ever  courteous  and 
helpful  Latin  Americans:  officials  and  private  individuals, 
with  members  of  my  own  sex.  As  a  complete  list  of  these 
would  be  too  long  I  permit  myself  the  mention  of  tliose  only 
who  are  entitled  to  especial  recognition,  our  ^Minister  to  J^o- 
livia,  1910-11)13,  the  Honorable  Horace  G.  Knowles,  and  the 
(iovernments  of  Bolivia,  Chile,  and  Argentina,  without  whose 
prompt  and  substantial  aid  this  work  would  have  been  impos- 
sihlc  That  its  usefulness  may  be  such  as  to  convey  to  them 
a  valid  return  is  my  earnest  aspiration. 

The  indulgence  of  critics  and  of  tourists  is  sought  for  er- 
rors (few,  I  trust)  and  deficiencies  Avhich  nuiy  be  discovered. 
These  and  other  faults  will  have  crept  in  on  ;ieeount  of  a  prep- 
ar.ition  somewliat  hui'ried  thnt  the  book  might  earlier  be  of 
service,  and  fi-oin  the  impossibility  of  securing  on  .some  ])()iMts 
exact  and  ade(|uate  ijiformation,  in  spite  of  diligent  investi- 
gation and  careful  sci-utiny  of  facts  and  figures. 

]\Iany  items  of  interest  and  importance  have  been  ojiiitted 
lest  the  book  should  be  too  long.     The  selection  of  nuilerial  it 


viii  FOR  EVERY  ONE 

is  hoped  will  be  suitable  to  the  general  reader,  though  doubt- 
less every  one  will  find  topics  pi'csentiid  to  which  he  is  indif- 
ferent, and  others  neglected  which  appear  to  hira  of  greater 
consequence. 

Hours  have  been  spent  in  searching  for  the  best  authority 
as  to  widely  different  figures  and  even  as  to  varying  accents 
and  spelling.  In  the  absence  of  other  information  a  few 
statements  have  with  some  trepidation  been  copied  from  au- 
thors whose  recognized  blunders  have  made  their  unverified 
observations  appear  questionable. 

While  a  different  statement  made  by  some  other,  albeit 
notable  writer  cannot  be  taken  as  conclusive  evidence  of  error, 
any  just  criticism  or  suggestion  presented  to  the  author  will 
be  gratefully  received  and  considered  with  a  view  to  incorpo- 
rating it  in  a  subsequent  edition. 


CONTEXTS 

CHAI'TEB  PAGE 

I       W  HAT    THE    TOLR    Is IIoW    AM)    \\  IIK.N    TO    fJo WhaT    It 

Costs 1 

II     The  Voyage  to  Panama C 

III  The  Isthmus — The  C'a.nai. — Colon        12 

IV  Colon  to  Panama — Panama  City 2.3 

V     Steamship  Lines  on  the  West  Coast — Ecladok  3G 

VI  Ox  the  Way  to  Callao 43 

VII  Salaverry,  Chan  Chan,  Chimhote,  the  Huailas  \'allky  i>0 

VIII  Callao  to  Lima — History 5!) 

IX  Lima,  the  City  of  the  Kings Gii 

X     The  Suburbs  ok  Lima — The  Oroya  Railway — Ceuro  de 

Pasco SO 

XI  The  Southern  Railway  of  Peru,  Arequipa  ....  DO 

XII  The  Southern  Railway — Cuzco !<'!> 

XIII  Bolivia — Cuzco  to  La  Paz 12.3 

XIV  The  City  of  La  Paz 133 

XV  Other  Regions  of  Bolivia  and  Routes  to  the  Sea  .      .  142 

XVI  Along  the  Chilian  Coast,  Arica  to  Valparaiso  1.j4 

XVII  \'alparaiso lt)3 

XV 11 1  Santi.\go         170 

XIX  Santiago — Continued IT'.i 

XX  Southern  Chile — Santiacu)  to  Ri  enos  Aires  iiy  Sea    .    I'M 

X\I  Across  the  Andes  to  Menooza        I'.is 

XXII  Argentina — Across  the  Plains  to  IU  enos  Aires   .      .   213 

XXIII  Buenos  Aires 222 

XXIV  Buenos  Aires — Continied 23S 

XXV     A  Side  Trip  to   RarAssu   Falls  and  to   Paragiay,   in- 
cluding Important  Argentine  Cities      ....  237 

ix 


X  CONTENTS 

CIIAPTICR  I'AIJK 

XXVI  rUL'CUAY 272 

XWII  liKAZii. — Along  tiik  Coast  to  Santos 280 

XWIIl  Santos  and  SXo  Tailo 295 

XXIX  Kio  UE  Jankiko — Bay  and  City 300 

XXX  Kio  DE  Janeiro — Continued         321 

XXXI  llio  DE  Janeiro — Concluded         330 

XXXII  X^ouTiiERN  Brazil — Homeward 341 

XXXIII  South  American   Trade 300 


ILLUSTRATIONS 

PACE 

North  Peak  of  .Mr.    IIiascaran,  21,812  Fket I'Kfiili.spiccv 

Mr.    IIUASCARAN    l-KOM    AN    ALTITUDE  OF   10,00<)   FEKT T)!! 

Llancanuco  Gorge   ."<; 

('All  AO    1 1  armor  :    RhX'EIVING    SECRETARY    IiOOT liCi 

I'LA/.A  i)E  Armas,  Cathedral CC 

I'ORTALES     AND     MUNICIPAL     lilll  DINC 7<  > 

Calle  Juni'n,    Inauguration  of  1'resident  Leguia 70 

I'ASEO    (."OLUN    AND    EXPOSITION    PaLACE 7S 

In  the  ^Iuseum,   Exposition  Palace 78 

STATIK  of    r.OLl'vAR.    IM.A/.A    l)K    I. A    I  N  t^U  ISKKKN 82 

Peruvian  Mi'mmy,  University  of  San  Maiuos S2 

On  the  Oroya  Railway Ul 

Pi.A/.A,  Cfhho  de  Pasco ;»<; 

Near  the  Source  of  the  Amazon   (Maranon  ) in; 

On  the  Southern  Railway  of  Peru loj 

Rki.icious  Pi{0(  kssion.  El  Misti  at  the  Rkjht 1(I2 

( 'athkdral.    Plaza    Matkiz lit; 

Ancient  Wai.i 1  If", 

r.ALSAs,   La kk   Titkaca 12S 

La  Paz  from  the  Hills 12S 

Cathedral   and  (Jovernmkn  i    Palaci; i;;i 

I  Iali,  of  ('on(;rf.ss.  Monument  to  Mukili.o 1."'.4 

Street  Near  the  Market i:'.s 

I  \  THE  Cemetery  of  La  Paz 1.".s 

.Monolithic    (Jateway,    'I'iaiiuanaco 1  12 

lMn.\.Ns  AT  Festival.  'I'iahuanac d 1  12 

.Mr.   Ii,i..\.\ii'U.  21,7ri(>  I'lir,  iko.m    iiie  I'iaiiau.    1:'..(K(H  Fkfi- Mil 

SORA  lA    'I'OWN      in; 

INDI.WS   'l'ltANSPORTIN(i    FrEKJHT 1 .".( > 

Plaza   and   (Jovern.ment    Pai.a<  e.   Oiti  ho l.'ii 

Valparaiso  IIardor   Hi  I 


ILLUSTRATIONS 

PAGE 

MoNdMicNT  TO  Aintuo  ruAT.   I'la/a    I Ni»i;rENi)i:.\riA 1«!4 

Avi:mi»a  Hua/ii.,  with  r.iuTisn  Monument lOS 

Hk.sidknck,  Vina  dkl  Mar H58 

Nkw  I  Iaix  or  CoNORESS 174 

Talace  of  Fine  Arts 180 

Entrance  to  Cerro  Santa  LuciA 18() 

Palacio  |)e  i^   .Moneda 180 

Cemetery  in  Rose  Time 180 

Tierra  del  Fuego 190 

Entrance  to  Andine  Tunnel,  Chilian  Side 190 

AvENiDA  DE  Mayo 224 

The  Capitol  Plaza,  Buenos  Aires 230 

Palermo   Park    230 

Jockey  Club  Stand,  Hippodrome 236 

Centennial  Exposition,   Rural  Society' 230 

Botanical  Garden   240 

Zoological  Garden.  House  of  Zebus 240 

Patio  in  New  Hall  of  Justice 246 

Colon   Theatre    240 

Tomb,  Recoleta  Cemetery 248 

Recoleta  Park   248 

Mercado  de  Frutos  and  Riachuelo 250 

Building  of  Public  School  Sarmiento 250 

Paseo  Colon,  Grain  Elevators  in  the  Distance 252 

Darsena  Xord  and  Marine  Shops 252 

On  the  River  Tigre 254 

Legislative  Building,   La  Plata 254 

University   Building.    La    Plata 250 

Museum,  La  Plata 250 

A  Fraction  of  the  Iguassu   Falls 200 

Judiciary  Building.  Rosario 2(i4 

Residence  on  an  Argentine  Estancia 204 

Government   Palace,    Asuncion 2()8 

New  Legislative  Palace.  Montevideo 270 

SoLis  Theatre 280 

Government  Palace  , , . , , v .. . .. . .  280, 


ILLUSTRATIONS 

Page 

Port  of  Santos 2!»<> 

Luz  Station,  Sao  Paui.o 300 

Municipal  Tiieatkk 300 

Yi'iranoa    MrsKiM     302 

IIOTKl,     OK     I  M  MICUANTS.     Sao     PaILO 302 

CoiKKK    Fazknda     304 

COFl'KK   TUKK 304 

AVKMUA    KlO    I'.KA.NCO.  ...      314 

P.ori-KVAKi)   P.KIKA   Mak   ikom    Pk.nsao   Siissa 314 

Xationak  Lir.uAKY    ;'>22 

Sciiooi.   OF   Fi.m;    Akts .•522 

AVKNIDA    DO    .MaNOIK '.V2ii 

I{K.SII)ENCK    OF    TIIK    PkESIDKNT '.','.','2 

POTANICAI,  (JAKI)EN    .■!32 

(  'OKCOVADO   FRO.\I   THE  PoiTLEVARI)   PeIRA    Mar 33(! 

Through   the  Clouds,  from  Corcovado 33<i 

United  States  Embassy.  Petropolis .340 

SllU.FT     WITH     IvIVKR '.UO 

Pi{A(jA   Di;  Fkei   Caktano  P.ra.ndao,   Para 3."»4 

P.ahia     3r)4 


ACKNOWLEDGMENT 
Miss  Peck's  photograph  of  Mt.  Huascaran, 
page  56,  is  used  by  permission  of  Harper 
&  Brothers  (copyright  1906),  and  through 
the  courtesy  of  the  Pan  American  Union 
eight  illustrations  were  selected  from  the 
Pan  American  Bulletin. 


THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 


NOTE  BY  THE  AUTHOR 

Owing  to  unsettled  conditions  during  the  periotl  of  the  Great 
War,  a  revision  of  The  South  American  Tour  has  been  delayed. 

At  the  present  moment,  February,  1920,  certain  plans  for 
South  American  shipping  are  in  abeyance.  Therefore,  to 
avoid  merelj-^  temporary  changes  in  the  text,  while  awaiting 
stable  conditions  shortly  to  be  realized,  I  beg  the  indulgence  of 
tourists  for  a  few  obviously  antiquated  statements  in  the  body 
of  the  book,  which  will  mislead  no  one,  and  present  here  such 
facts  as  to  transportation  changes,  new  hotels,  etc..  as  an*  now 
available. 

February  5th,  1920. 


ADDENDA 

,  All  references  to  the  Hamburg-American  and  to  the  Kosmos 
8.  8.  Lines  should  be  ignored.  Statements  in  the  text  regard- 
ing railway  and  steamship  fares  are  no  longer  accurate,  most 
of  these  being  considerably  increased.  These  and  exact  date 
of  sailings  should  always  be  investigated. 

The  information  as  to  the  Panama  Canal  is  complete  and 
accurate  if  "will  be"  is  changed  to  "is"  or  "are." 

Page  37. — The  railway'  from  Buenaventura  now  extends  to 
Cali  and  beyond.  Guaj'aquil  is  said  to  be  permanently  freed 
from  yellow  fever. 

Page  59. — The  United  States  flag  is  in  these  days  frequently 
seen. 

Page  74.— American  Ijanks  may  ])e  found  in  Lima  and  in  the 
chief  cities  of  the  other  republics. 

Page  170. — The  Savoy  is  a  new  hotel  in  Santiago. 

Page  274.— Lanata  has  but  one  "t". 

Page  290. — The  railway  journey,  Montevideo  to  Sao  Paulo, 
may  now  be  made  in  four  and  one-half  daj'S,  with  sleeping  and 
dining  car  service  for  the  entire  distance,  and  a  single  change 
t)f  cars  at  the  boundary  of  L'ruguay  and  Brazil. 

Page  3n. — A  large  new  hotel,  the  Guinle,  has  been  opened 
on  the  Avenida  Rio  Branco. 

The  population  of  most  of  the  cities  is  a  httle  larger;  tlio  prices; 
at  hotels  and  in  general  for  goods  are  higher. 

Passports  are  essential' for  all  travelers. 


Pl^ESENT  STEAMSHIP  SERVICE 

WEST  COAST  LINES 

The  Royal  Mail  S.  S.  service  to  the  West  Inches  is  tempo- 
rarily suspended.  The  new  Pacific  Line  (P.  S.  N.),  with  the 
same  ag;ents,  has  a  present  programme  of  two  large  ships 
(14,000  tons),  which  accommodate  250  first  class  passengers, 
sailing  monthly  to  Valparaiso  and  other  West  Coast  ports  via 
the  Panama  Canal,  later  to  be  supplemented  by  additional 
service.  The  P.  S.  N.  Co,  continues  its  regular  sailings  from 
( 'ristobal  to  Valparaiso  and  intermediate  ports. 

The  Peruvian  and  Chilian  S.  S.  lines  continue  their  usual 
>ervice. 

The  United  Fruit  Co.  at  present  has  Tuesday  saiHllg^  imm 
Xew  York  via  Jamaica  to  Cristobal  in  eight  da^'s,  and  on 
Saturdays  with  a  stop-over  at  Havana  in  eleven  days.  Keturn- 
ing,  two  boats  leave  Cristobal  on  Thursday's,  one  direct  to  New 
York  in  seven  daj'^,  and  one  via  Limon  in  eleven  days.  Ne^ 
Orleans  has  service  on  Wednesdays  to  Cristobal  in  five  or  .six 
days,  direct  or  via  Havana.  Returning  boats  leave  Cristobal 
Wednesday  or  Thursda}^  arriving  Thursday,  week  following. 

The  NEW  Crace  Line,  with  present  monthly  sailings,  from 
.\pril  onward  schedules  a  bi-weekly  service  from  Xew  York 
through  the  Canal,  to  Callao  in  eleven  or  twelve  tlays,  to 
X'alparaiso  in  nineteen  days,  with  calls  at  Arica,  Iquique,  and 
Antofagasta.  Returning,  Arica  is  omitted,  and  the  voyage  is 
usually  made  in  seventeen  days.  The  boats  of  10,000  tons 
accommodate  one  hundred  first  class  passengers.  There  is  no 
exchange  of  tickets  with  other  lines. 

The  Pacific  Mail  S.  S.  Co.  has  a  bi-weekly  .service  iioin  .^au 
I'Vancisco  to  Cristobal  with  calls  at  fifteen  intermediate  ports, 
in  a  voyage  of  four  weeks. 


PRESENT  STEAMSHIP  SERVICE 

EAST  COAST  LINES 

The  Lamport  &  Holt  Line,  which  experienced  some  losses 
during  the  war,  at  present  has  monthly  service  to  Montevideo 
and  Buenos  Aires  and  approximately  a  bi-weekly  service  to 
Brazil. 

The  Lloyd  Brazileiro  has  a  slightly  irregular  service  to 
Brazilian  ports. 

The  MuNSON  Line  expects  soon  to  have  a  bi-weekly  service 
to  Rio  de  Janeiro,  Santos,  Montevideo,  and  Buenos  Aires, 
with  ships  of  10-12,000  tons. 

The  Norton  Line  has  a  tri-monthly  service  to  Montevideo 
and  Buenos  Aires. 

From  England  and  France  there  is  service  to  the  principal 
East  Coast  ports  by  the  Royal  Mail  "A"  boats  and  uie  Pacific 
Line  "0"  boats. 


FOREWORD 

The  South  American  Tour!  "Como  no?'*  "Why  not?" 
as  many  Spanish  Americans  say  when  they  wish  to  give 
hearty  assent.  Have  you  been  around  the  world  ?  Do  you 
travel  for  pleasure  or  business?  AVhatever  your  object, 
whether  your  purse  is  full  or  you  wish  to  fill  it,  the  south- 
ern half  of  our  hemisphere  is  a  land  which  should  not  be 
i<;nored. 

What  is  there  to  see  ?  May  the  journey  be  taken  in  comfort  ? 
These  things  shall  be  revealed  in  detail  after  a  few  general 
facts  have  been  presented. 

Is  the  enjoyment  of  scenery  the  chief  aim  of  your  travel  ? 
With  ease  you  may  beliold  some  of  the  finest  in  the  world, — • 
much  more  if  you  care  to  take  a  little  trouble:  snow  clad 
mountains  galore  rising  above  20,000  feet,  dwarfing  the 
Alps  into  insignificance,  giants  to  be  admired  not  only 
from  afar  as  toui'ists  in  India  gaze  upon  the  Himalayas,  but 
from  nearer  points,  even  from  their  very  foot;  smoking  vol- 
canoes, cliffs  more  lofty  than  those  of  the  Yosemite,  wonder- 
ful lake  scenery  including  the  highest  sheet  of  water  (12,500 
feet)  where  steamboats  regularly  ply;  strange  yd  fascinating 
deserts;  wondrous  waterfalls,  one  of  these  surpassing  Niagara 
in  heiglit,  volume,  and  beauty ;  magnificent  tropical  vegeta- 
tion and  forests,  the  highest  raiii'oads,  the  most  pictures(pie 
and  beautiful  harbor  of  the  world.  All  of  these,  with  the 
exception  of  the  great  cataract,  are  easily  accessible,  and 
form  a  combination  of  scenic  attractions  unsurpassed  in  any 
portion  of  the  globe. 

Do  strange  people  and  cities  interest  you  more?  You  may 
wander  in  towns  old  and  (piaint,  containing  buildings  of  cen- 
turies past,  and  in  cities  (juite  up  to  date  growing  with  tlie 
rapidity  of  our  own.  In  a  few  places  Indians  in  peculiar  garb 
may  be  seen  by  the  side  of  Paris  gowns  and  Knglisli  mas- 
culine attire,  in  others  an  Indian  with  sandals,  hood,  and 
poncho   would   attract   as   much   attention   as   on    liroadway. 


FOREWORD 

Several  eitics  liave  Imulevards,  parks,  and  opera  liouses  finer 
tluui  any  oi"  wiiieJi  North  America  can  boast. 

Do  you  care  for  ruins,  antiquities?  These  also  abound. 
"Whole  cities  of  the  dead  are  there,  and  others  where  the  new 
civilization  rises  above  or  by  the  side  of  the  old.  Temples, 
palaces,  fortifications,  ancient  statues,  mummies,  and  pottery 
may  be  cursorily  admired  or  profoundly  studied,  and  search 
may  still  be  made  for  undiscovered  monuments  of  a  pre- 
historic past. 

These  countries  rapidly  advancing,  with  astonishing  mineral 
and  agricultural  resources  awaiting  development,  witli  rail- 
roads to  be  laid,  with  fast  growing  markets  for  almost  every 
kind  of  merchandise,  invite  the  trader  and  the  capitalist  to 
investigate  hitherto  neglected  opportunities  before  it  is  too 
late. 

Well  informed  as  to  what  there  is  to  see,  the  possible  tour- 
ist is  certain  to  inquire  if  the  journey  will  be  comfortable. 
Perhaps,  indeed,  the  order  of  the  questions  should  be  reversed ; 
for  few,  I  greatly  fear,  would  be  tempted  to  say  "Let  us  go!" 
if  the  tour  involved  any  hardship.  Happily  this  is  not  the 
ease.  Though  the  Imperator,  the  Mauretania,  and  the  Olym- 
pic do  not  3'et  sail  in  that  direction,  the  names  of  several  steam- 
ship lines  which  serve  the  traveler  to  Panama,  or  Buenos 
Aires  are  a  guarantee  of  comfort  and  of  sufficient  luxury. 
The  steamers  elsewhere  are  commodious,  having  for  the  most 
part  state  rooms  provided  with  electric  fans,  and  satisf^'ing 
all  reasonable  requirements.  The  railroads  in  the  various 
countries  have  the  usual  equipment.  The  hotels,  if  one  does 
not  depart  from  the  ordinary  line  of  travel,  will  in  general 
be  found  satisfactory,  providing  excellent  food,  good  beds,  etc., 
and  in  those  cities  where  some  little  time  should  be  spent 
meeting  the  wants  of  all  except  the  ultra  fastidious  tourist. 

If  we  do  not  sympathize  with  the  cry  "See  America  first /^ 
bearing  in  mind  that  America  is  the  whole  and  not  a  fraction 
of  the  Western  Continent,  at  least,  when  we  have  seen  the 
Old  World,  instead  of  ever  retracing  our  steps  in  familiar 
ways,  let  us  seek  the  strange  New  World  beyond  the  equator 
where  a  brief  tour  will  reveal  a  multitude  of  scenes  amazing 
and  delightful,  even  to  the  experienced  traveler. 


THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN 
TOUR 


CHAPTER  1 

WHAT  THE  TOUR  IS— HOW  AND  WTTEX  TO  CIO— 
WHAT  IT  COSTS 

.  The  South  American  Tour,  rapidly  becoiiiinc:  fashionable 
and  popular,  and  about  to  be  described,  includes  the  most  in- 
teresting and  accessible  portions  of  that  continent, — its  finest 
scenery,  its  greatest  cities.  A  wonderful  variety  in  the  swiftly 
moving-  pictures  prevents  any  dullness  on  the  part  of  the  intel- 
ligent traveler,  who  is  ever  kept  alert  for  the  continually 
fresh  experiences  of  this  remarkable  journey. 

Where.  My  tourist  party  will  be  conducted  first  to  Panama, 
wlici'e  the  sail  from  ocean  to  ocean  through  an  immense  artifi- 
cial channel  awakens  profound  sensations  of  wonder  and  pride. 
The  opportunity  then  to  continue  in  the  same  vessel  along 
the  West  Coast  of  South  America,  invaluable  for  commerce 
and  for  those  on  business  bent,  may  pi-ove  a  disadvantage  to 
the  pleasui'c  ti'aveler,  by  tempting  him  to  pass  witli  a  mere 
glance  the  City  of  Panama  and  olher  spots  Avorlliy  ol"  observa- 
tion. 

On  the  Pacific  side  Pefu,  P>()li\ia,  and  Chile  will  be  \isited 
by  every  one:  a  few  may  make  llie  side  trip  fo  Ecuador. — 
Guayaquil  and  Quito.  In  order  to  return  along  th(>  ICast 
Coast  one  may  complete  the  circuit  of  the  continenf  by  sail- 
ing down,  thi'ough  the  Straits  of  Magellan,  past  Punta 
Arenas,  and  up  on  this  side,  or  with  the  greater  number  may 
cross  the  Andes  by  rail,  thus  to  reach  the  metropolis  of  South 
America,  Buenos  Aires.  Thence,  al'tci-,  oi-  if  not  including. 
an  excursion  to  Paraguay  and  to  the  greatest  of  Ami'iii;m 
waterfalls,  the  Iguassu,  one  may  sail  to  .Montevideo  in  Uruguay, 

1 


2  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

from  there  to  Brazil,  returning  from  Rio  de  Janeiro  directly 
to  New  York,  or  by  way  of  Europe  as  preferred.  Similarly 
the  trip  may  be  made  from  Europe  by  several  lines  of  steamers 
direct  to  Panama,  or  more  quickly  by  way  of  New  York,  with 
a  return  from  Rio. 

Altogether  omitted  from  this  itinerary  are  the  countries 
on  the  northern  shore  of  South  America.  Of  these  Colombia 
and  Venezuela  are  better  included  in  a  West  India  trip. 
The  Guianas  by  ordinary  tourists  are  neglected. 

Obviously  the  journey  may  be  made  in  either  direction : 
as  above,  or  in  reverse  order ;  but  unless  the  season  of  the 
year  invites  a  change  the  former  sequence  should  by  all 
means  be  followed.  Thus  taken  the  journey  is  one  of  ever 
increasing  interest,  until  its  culmination  in  the  delightful 
harbor  and  city  of  Rio  de  Janeiro.  Not  that  Peru  is  in- 
ferior to  Bolivia  and  Chile,  or  Buenos  Aires  to  Rio,  let  me 
hasten  to  add;  each  has  its  own  peculiar  charm;  but  one  who 
begins  with  the  West  Coast  will  find  the  entire  journey  far 
more  enjoyable  and  impressive. 

When  one  should  go  depends  more  upon  when  one  wishes 
to  leave  home  than  upon  the  conditions  prevailing  in  South 
America;  also  upon  one's  individual  taste  as  to  temperature. 
In  brief,  one  may  safely  make  the  trip  whenever  it  suits  his 
convenience.  Bearing  in  mind  what  so  many  seem  to  for-^ 
get,  that  the  seasons  are  reversed  in  the  northern  and  southern 
hemispheres,  one  may  leave  home  to  escape  either  heat  or 
cold,  or  to  avoid  March  winds,  as  he  may  elect.  In  none  of 
the  countries  to  be  visited  is  the  variation  between  winter  and 
summer  so  great  as  in  the  latitude  of  New  York,  nor  is  the 
tropical  heat  anywhere  on  the  journey  so  intense  as  that  on 
many  days  of  every  summer  here. 

Leaving  the  United  States  on  a  four  months'  tour  at  any 
time  between  the  middle  of  November  and  the  last  of  August, 
I  strongly  advise  one  to  visit  the  West  Coast  first.  During 
the  remaining  three  months,  one  who  dislikes  hot  weather 
might  better  begin  with  Brazil.  In  December,  January,  and 
Fel)ruary,  the  mercury  at  Rio  is  mostly  in  the  eighties. 
In  January  I  found  it  comfortable  enough  for  summer 
weather,  but  I  needed  the  ten  degrees  lower  temperature  of  an 
earlier  or  a  later  season  to  make  my  visit  absolutely  ideal 


HOW  AND  WHEN  TO  GO  3 

With  a  delightful  climate  during  nine  months  of  the  year,  the 
city  at  any  time  is  perfectly  healthy ;  since  the  yellow  fever, 
formerly  a  dreaded  scourge,  was  stamped  out  at  Rio  during 
the  same  period  that  this  was  accomplished  in  Panama. 

Buenos  Aires  also  may  be  more  advantageously  visited  dur- 
ing the  cooler  weather,  both  because  the  opera  and  social 
festivities  are  then  in  full  swing,  and  because  one  is  likely  to 
be  more  energetic  for  sight-seeing,  of  which  there  is  much  to 
be  done.  In  Peru  and  Bolivia,  on  the  usual  route  of  travel  it 
is  never  hot  enough  to  be  troublesome.  Chile,  in  the  central 
and  most  visited  portion,  is  a  trifle  less  agreeable  during  the 
southern  summer  than  in  spring  or  fall,  especially  on  account 
of  the  dust,  but  tliis  matters  little  for  a  brief  stay. 

Four  months  should  be  allowed  for  the  trip.  A  couple 
who  made  it  in  three,  though  delighted  with  their  journey, 
mourned  over  the  unavoidable  omissions  and  were  planning 
to  go  again.  Six  months  is  not  too  much ;  a  whole  year  could 
be  profitably  employed :  but  in  four  months  or  a  trifle  more, 
one  may  visit  the  most  important  places  and  gain  a  fair  idea 
of  the  various  countries.  The  personally  conducted  parties 
for  three  months  only  are  well  worth  while. 

The  expense  of  the  trip  Avill  naturally  vary  according  to 
the  time  and  extent  of  the  journey  and  the  economy  or  ex- 
travagance of  the  tourist.  A  round  trip  ticket  from  New 
York  to  New  York,  good  either  by  the  Straits  or  across  the 
Andes,  may  be  j)urcliased  for  $475,  or  including  a  return  by 
way  of  Europe  for  $")(),■).  AdditioiuU  expenses-  may  be  from 
•tnOO  or  less  to  $1000  or  more  according  to  the  person,  Ihc 
time,  and  the  number  of  side  trips  taken.  By  several  tourist 
agencies  personally  conducted  parties  are  semi-annually  dis- 
patched to  South  America  at  a  cost  varying  from  .$1:^7")  for  a 
tour  of  98  or  99  days  to  $2250  for  UG  days.  Also  the  Ham- 
burg-American Line  has  sent  a  ship  around  to  Valparaiso  by 
way  of  the  Straits.  Tickets  $475  to  $:5000;  optional  extra 
shore  trips  $300  or  more.  Since  the  completion  of  the  Canal 
a  tourist  sliij)  has  nuide  the  entire  circuit. 

Per.sons  who  prefer  to  be  relieved  of  care,  or  who  do  not 
speak  Spanish,  the  language  current  at  all  points  of  the  jour- 
ney save  Brazil,  and  tliere  understood  by  edueate<l  ))eople, 
will  do  well  to  join  a  party,  especially  if  their  time  is  limited. 


4  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

Those  wlio  can  devote  a  longer  period  to  the  trip  and  who 
like  to  do  their  own  planning  may  see  more  hy  themselves  at 
either  greater  or  less  expense.  One  who  speaks  only  English, 
hy  keeping  to  the  main  line  of  travel  and  patronizing  the 
leading  hotels,  should  have  no  serious  difficulty ;  though  it 
is,  of  course,  an  advantage,  readily  gained  by  one  who  is 
familiar  with  Latin  or  French,  to  have  some  acquaintance  with 
Spanish,  an  easy  and  beautiful  language.  A  bare  smatter- 
ing picked  up  from  a  phrase  book  on  the  voyage  is  better  than 
nothing,  while  a  conversational  knowledge  greatly  enhances 
the  pleasure  and  profit  of  the  journey. 

Baggage.  In  regard  to  baggage,  the  less  taken  the  better, 
both  on  account  of  the  expense  and  because  of  the  care  it 
entails;  yet  it  is  well  to  have  a  fair  supply  of  good  clothes, 
since  evening  dress  is  everywhere  more  strictly  en  regie  than 
in  most  parts  of  the  United  States.  The  steamships  are  not 
all  rigid  as  to  the  precise  amount  of  baggage,  though  the 
allowance  on  different  lines  varies  from  150  to  400  lbs. ;  the 
railroads  are  strict  and  extra  baggage  is  expensive;  only  100 
lbs.  are  allowed.  Going  up  to  Bolivia  by  the  Southern  Rail- 
way of  Peru,  a  heavy  box  or  two  may  cost  as  much  as  the 
ticket.  Many  tourists  take  only  hand  baggage  to  Cuzeo  and 
La  Paz,  leaving  on  l)oard  the  steamer  their  heavy  pieces,  to 
be  reclaimed  later  at  Valparaiso.  On  all  roads,  the  hand 
baggage  goes  free ;  hence  suit  cases,  etc.,  are  much  in  evidence. 

Clothing.  One  needs  a  supply  of  both  light  and  heavy 
■weight,  the  proportion  of  each  depending  upon  the  season  of 
the  year.  Always  by  way  of  the  Isthmus  there  are  eight 
or  ten  days  of  summer  weather  en  route,  and  several  weeks 
during  the  East  Coast  journey.  Along  the  seaboard  of  Peru 
and  Chile  woolen  or  heavy  underwear  may  be  desirable  for 
many,  as  on  the  highlands  of  Peru  and  Bolivia;  also  in 
Chile  and  Argentina  during  their  winter  season,  when  a  tem- 
perature in  the  forties  and  fifties  will  be  experienced ;  some 
hotels  have  no  fires,  and  the  nights  and  mornings  are  chill. 
On  the  mountain  railways,  as  during  a  portion  of  the  sea 
voyage,  wraps  and  rugs  are  needed  in  addition  to  moderately 
heavy  clothing.  Furs  though  unnecessary  may  be  found 
agreeable  during  the  months  of  winter,  June  to  September. 

Money  may  be  carried  in  letters  of  credit  on  W.  R.  Grace, 


HOW  AND  WHEN  TO  GO  5 

the  National  City  Bank,  Blair  and  Company,  or  other  bank- 
ers, or  l)y  American  Express  Cheques.  to<retlier  with  a  mod- 
erate supply  of  yold.  The  English  pound,  being  precisely 
the  same  as  the  Penivian,  is  interchangeable  with  them;  in 
other  countries  it  has  been  more  acceptable  and  convenient 
tlian  American  gold,  though  dollar  exchange  is  now  rapidly 
becoming  popular.  A  point  to  be  noted  and  remembered  is 
that  most  resident  Americans  and  English,  a  few  natives, 
and  travelers  in  South  America  generally,  speak  of  certain 
coins,  soles  or  pesos,  as  dollars ;  a  poor  custom  which  should 
not  be  imitated.  Since  it  is  prevalent,  one  must  be  on  guard 
to  avoid  mistakes.  In  Panama  a  clerk  or  a  coachman  saying 
twenty  cents  or  one  dollar  means  silver  -.  i.  e.,  10  and  50  cents, 
United  States  currency.  A  man  in  Lima  who  .speaks  of 
twenty  dollars  probably  means  soles,  practically  ten  dollars. 
In  Bolivia  a  bolivian  is  about  40  cents,  a  peso  in  Chile  is  22 
cents  more  or  less,  in  Argentina  44,  in  Uruguay  $1.04;  in 
Brazil  a  milreis  is  33  cents.  All  of  the  countries  divide  their 
unit  decimally,  and  if  it  were  not  for  the  foolish  custom  of 
English  speaking  folk,  there  would  be  no  confusion.  In  this 
book  the  words  dollars  and  cents  and  the  sign  $  will  every- 
where signify  United  States  currency;  otherwise  the  names 
employed  by  the  respective  countries  will  be  used,  as  soles, 
pesos,  and  ccntavos.  In  connection  with  Brazilian  money  the 
sign  $  is  put  after  the  number;  thus  15  milreis  is  written 
15$000.  On  account  of  variations  in  the  value  of  the  cur- 
rency of  several  countries  due  to  the  European  War,  it  is  de- 
sirable to  ascertain  the  precise  rate  of  exchange  at  the  mo- 
ment. 


CHAPTER  II 
THE  VOYAGE  TO  PANAMA 

In  1903,  before  the  United  States'  occupation,  there  was  no 
choice  as  to  means  of  transport  to  the  Isthmus.  A  single 
steamship  company,  that  of  the  Panama  Railroad,  dispatched 
a  vessel  from  New  York  once  a  week.  Now  there  are  four 
different  lines  with  as  many  weekly  sailings,  besides  one  from 
New  Orleans,  a  more  convenient  point  of  departure  for  many 
south  of  Mason  and  Dixon's  line.  The  four  companies,  all 
with  headquarters  in  New  York,  w^ll  gladly  furnish  the  latest 
information  in  regard  to  their  own  sailing  and  accommoda- 
tions as  on  other  points  in  reference  to  the  tour. 

Fares.  The  lowest  fare  from  New  York  to  Colon,  $75.00, 
to  Panama,  $78.00,  is  the  same  on  all  lines,  better  accom- 
modations being  provided  for  a  supplementary  fee  of  from 
$5.00  up.  It  is  wisdom  to  purchase,  if  not  a  ticket  for  the 
round  trip,  one  as  far  at  least  as  Mollendo,  $191,  as  a 
slight  reduction  is  made  on  through  tickets.  Stop-overs  are 
allowed  at  any  of  the  ports  of  call,  and  on  the  East  or  AA'est 
Coasts  of  South  America  the  journey  may,  if  more  convenient, 
be  resumed  on  certain  other  lines  of  steamers  without  extra 
charge,  save  for  embarking  or  disembarking  in  the  small  boats. 

The  respective  merits  of  the  four  steamship  lines  to  Panama 
are  a  matter  of  opinion.  On  three  of  these  I  have  enjoyed  the 
voyage,  especially  my  last  in  a  luxurious  suite  on  the  Prinz 
August  Wilhelm  of  the  Atlas  Hamburg-American  Line. 

The  old  Panama  Company  claims  that  its  boats  are  provided 
with  all  of  the  comforts  afforded  by  the  others,  including  rooms 
with  private  baths.  It  has  regular  weekly  sailings,  on  Thurs- 
days, several  of  the  steamers  making  the  journey  in  six  days, 
instead  of  the  seven,  eight,  or  nine  occupied  by  ships  of  the 
other  lines.  Those  who  prefer  American  cooking  or  the 
shorter  voyage  will  choose  one  of  these  ships. 

6 


THE  VOYAGE  TO  PAXA.MA  7 

Tlie  Royal  ^Mail  Steam  Packet  Company,  with  wliich  the 
Pacific  Steam  Navigation  Company  is  allied,  continues  its 
service  to  Colon  on  alternate  Saturdays,  with  tlie  substitution 
of  two  fine  new  steamers  of  9000  tons,  with  elevators  and  other 
modern  luxuries,  for  two  of  the  older  ships.  Tlie  steamers 
calling  at  Antilla,  Cuba,  and  at  Kingston,  Jamaica,  arrive  at 
Colon  on  Sunday,  eight  days  from  New  York,  connecting  with 
the  boats  of  the  Chilian  and  the  Peruvian  Lines  sailing  south 
on  ]\Ionday.  "With  the  opening  of  the  Canal  to  tratiHc  in  the 
summer  of  1914,  a  new  service  from  New  York  was  planned  on 
the  intermediate  Saturdays  by  the  large  0  steamers  of  the 
P.  S.  N.  Line,  some  of  them  of  15,500  tons,  with  double  bot- 
toms, seven  steel  decks,  etc.  These  ships  were  scheduled  to  sail 
from  New  York  to  the  Isthmus,  through  the  Canal,  down  the 
west  Coast,  making  the  usual  calls,  then  througli  the  Straits 
of  Magellan  around  to  ^Montevideo,  and  with  calls  at  Brazilian 
and  Spanish  ports  to  Liverpool;  with  return  voyage  to  New 
York  in  reverse  manner  around  South  America. 

The  Hamburg-Americax  Atlas  Line  has  had  fine  steamers 
sailing  every  Saturday  for  the  Isthmus,  touching  at  Santiago 
de  Cuba  and  Kingston,  one  week  arriving  at  Colon  on  ^Monday, 
connecting  with  the  boats  for  the  south,  the  next  week  on 
Tuesday,  thus  missing  them. 

The  United  Fruit  Company  boasts  of  a  great  white  fleet 
with  four  sailings  to  Colon  a  week;  two,  on  Wednesday  and 
Saturday,  from  New  York;  and  two  on  the  same  days  from 
New  Orleans.  These  ships,  they  say,  are  the  only  ones  going 
to  Colon  which  were  designed  and  built  especially  for  tropical 
service,  thus  having  all  of  the  latest  devices  for  comfort  as 
well  as  for  safety.  A  wireless  equipment  as  a  matter  of  course 
tile  l)oats  of  all  lines  carry;  tliese  have  also  a  submarine  signal 
apparatus,  to  give  warning  of  tlie  proximity  of  anotber  vessel, 
and,  as  an  especial  feature,  lifeboats  which  with  a  patent  lever 
may  be  swung  off  and  lowered  by  a  single  man.  l^y  tlie 
system  of  ventilation  the  temperature  of  the  rooms  at  night 
may  be  kept  down  to  55°.  a  boon  to  many  on  the  muggy 
Caribbean.  All  of  tiie  boats  on  tlie  various  lines  have  pianos 
and  music,  most  of  them  cards,  checkers,  chess,  and  lil)raries, 
the  United  Fruit  Company  supplying  the  latest  magazines. 

The  Fruit  Company  now  sells  tickets  to  Colon  at  a  lower 


8  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

rate,  with  meals  extra  a  la  carte,  the  total  eost  thus  being 
<i'i-eat('i'  ()!•  less  lliaii   before. 

Via  New  Orleans.  Tlie  oi){)ortujiity  to  go  by  way  of  New 
Orleans  may  appeal,  especially  in  winter,  to  some  who  have 
not  visited  that  city  and  to  those  who  desire  to  avoid  the  pos- 
sibility of  two  or  three  cold  stormy  days  on  the  sea  before 
enterino-  the  regions  of  i)ei.'petiial  summer.  The  Saturday 
boats  reach  Colon  Thursday  morning,  tlie  Wednesday  steamers 
Wednesday,  the  latter  having  made  a  34-hour  call  at  Havana. 

The  voyage  to  Panama,  indeed  all  of  the  six  or  seven  weeks 
on  the  sea,  which  are  a  necessary  part  of  this  tour,  will  be 
likely  to  prove  an  agreeable  experience  even  to  those  who 
as  a  rule  do  not  enjoy  the  ocean.  While  the  waters  of  the 
Atlantic  may  at  any  season  be  turbulent  and  tempestuous,  the 
portions  of  both  oceans  which  are  to  be  traversed  are  for  the 
most  part  so  smooth  that  unless  persons  are  determined  to  be 
seasick  whether  they  have  occasion  or  not,  it  is  probable  that 
they  will  suffer  little  or  none  from  this  unpleasant  malady. 
Ordinarily  the  sail  to  Panama,  under  sunny  skies,  over  un- 
ruffled seas,  in  weather,  after  a  day  or  two,  warm  enough  for 
summer  clothing,  is  a  pleasure  unalloyed.  On  the  Caribbean 
it  may  be  a  trifle  muggy  and  sticky,  but  if  favored  with  sun- 
shine the  wonderful  blue  of  the  waters,  deeper  than  that  of  the 
Bay  of  Naples,  affords  solace.  On  some  of  the  ships  a  little 
dance  on  deck,  if  happily  under  a  tropical  moon,  may  be  an 
experience   affording  delightful  memories. 

Watling's  Island.  After  leaving  New  York  harbor  and  the 
atljoining  coast  the  first  land  to  come  within  range  of  vision 
is  that  of  Watling's  Island,  noted  for  a  lighthouse  of  great 
power  and  value.  Otherwise  unimportant,  it  acquires  in- 
terest from  the  fact  that  on  this  shore  Cokimbus  is  believed 
to  have  made  his  first  landing  in  the  Western  World.  The 
island  is  thus  entitled  to  the  more  pretentious  name,  San 
Salvador,  bestowed  by  the  great  explorer  upon  the  land  where 
first  he  trod  in  devout  thanksgiving,  after  many  weeks  of 
painful  suspense  upon  the  limitless  ocean. 

Fortunate  is  the  traveler  who  towards  sunset  enters  Wincl- 
ivard  Channel,  passing  before  dark  the  desolate  wooded  bluffs 
of  the  eastern  extremity  of  Cuba,  Cape  Maysi,  and  later  hav- 
ing a  look  at  the  southeast  shores  where  rise  sombre,  forest 


THE  VOYAGE  TO  PAXA:MA  9 

covered  peaks  to  an  imposing  heiglit,  the  loftiest  above  8000 
feet.  From  a  Panama  or  United  Fruit  Company  steamer  no 
more  \vill  you  see  of  Cuba ;  but  on  a  boat  of  the  Royal  ]Mail 
you  will  already  have  called  at  Antilla,  in  the  eastern  section 
of  the  island's  northern  sliore,  a  new  and  growini,''  scnport  on 
Nipe  Bay,  and  the  north  terminus  of  the  Cu])an  Railway. 
Extensive  docking  facilities  have  been  provided,  large  ware- 
houses, immense  tanks  for  molasses,  a  good  hotel :  and  plans 
are  made  for  buihling  here  a  great  commercial  city. 

Santiago  de  Cuba,  liy  the  Hamburg-American  Line  the 
first  call  is  made  on  the  south  side  of  the  island  at  the  more 
famous  and  considerable  city,  Santiago  de  Cuba,  which, 
founded  in  1514,  is  said  to  l)e  the  oldest  settlement  of  size  in 
the  AVestern  Hemisphere.  AVith  a  population  of  50,000, 
among  Cuban  cities  it  comes  next  to  Havana.  It  has  also 
historic  interest.  That  Hernando  Cortez  from  this  port,  Nov. 
18,  1518,  set  out  for  the  bold  conquest  of  the  Aztec  Empire  is 
a  fact  less  widely  known  tlian  the  more  recent  circumstance 
that  in  this  slieltered  harl)or  the  fleet  of  Admiral  Cervera  lay 
concealed,  until  July  3,  1898,  it  sailed  forth  to  its  doom.  In 
the  nai-row  portal,  less  than  600  feet  wide,  rests  the  old 
Mcrrimac,  sunk  by  Lt.  IIol)son  and  seven  others,  June  3,  1898. 
On  the  riulit  of  the  entrance,  crowning  a  blulf  200  feet  high,  is 
the  old  ]\Iorro  Castle,  an  ancient  fortress  of  picturesque  ap- 
pearance, begun  soon  after  the  founding  of  the  city  and  pos- 
sessing towers  and  turrets  in  genuine  niediivval  style.  Six 
miles  farther,  at  the  head  of  the  bay,  on  a  sloping  terrace  with 
steep  hills  behind,  is  the  bright,  gay  city;  though  at  the  noon- 
tide hour  it  may  seem  a  triile  sleepy  and  dull. 

If  time  permits,  a  drive  on  the  line  roads  will  be  enjoyed. 
To  the  t>an  Juan  battlefield  three  miles  distant  and  to  El  CaiK  y 
a  little  farther  the  fare  is  .$1.50  for  a  single  person,  .$2.00  for 
several.  The  longer  drive  to  Morro  Castle,  fare  .$3.50,  atVoi-ds 
charming  views.  In  the  city  one  proceeds  first  to  the  pla/.a, 
where  on  one  side  is  the  great  e»itheeli-al  called  the  largt'st 
in  Cnb;i,  containing  rare  marl)les  and  mahogany  elioir  stalls. 
On  tlie  other  sides  ai'c  the  Casa  (Jrande  Hotel  and  the  \  eiius 
Restaurant.  Near  by  is  tiie  Filarmonia  Theatre  where  the 
famous  diva,  Adalina  Patti,  is  said  to  have  made  her  debut. 
A  few  may  care  to  visit  the  spot  where  the  Captain  and  sail- 


10  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

ors  of  the  Virginius  were  executed  as  filibusters  in  187;i,  a 
slaughter  pen  near  the  liarl)or  front  to  the  east  of  the  Cuba 
Railway  Station.  An  inscribed  tablet  there  commemorates  the 
sad  event. 

Kingston,  Jamaica,  is  visited  by  all  of  the  steamers  except 
those  of  tile  Panama  Line.  The  city  is  on  the  soutli  side 
of  the  island,  by  the  excellent  and  far  famed  harbor  of 
Port  Royal.  The  town  of  that  name,  ancient  rendezvous 
of  Morgan  and  the  buccaneers,  once  stood  on  the  long 
sandy  spit  which  separates  the  bay  from  the  ocean.  But 
on  a  day  in  1692  occurred  one  of  those  memorable  tragedies 
at  which  the  whole  world  stands  appalled.  The  earth  was 
shaken.  The  city  sank  beneath  the  sea,  where  it  is  said  that 
some  of  the  buildings  may  yet  be  seen,  when  the  waves  are 
still,  deep  down  below  the  smiling  tranquil  surface.  Kings- 
ton, then  founded  on  the  main  shore,  recently  suffered  (Janu- 
ary 14,.  1907),  as  we  well  remember,  a  similar  though  less  com- 
plete disaster,  being  merely  shaken  down  instead  of  swallowed 
up.  Like  San  Francisco  it  was  promptly  rebuilt  with  better 
architecture.  Quite  up  to  date  with  electric  cars  and  other 
modern  conveniences,  it  is  an  attractive  place  of  scenic  and 
tropical  beauty,  excellent  too  for  shopping.  Interesting  are 
the  markets,  the  old  Parish  Church,  badly  shaken,  but  still 
standing ;  the  main  streets,  King  and  Queen,  at  right  angles  to 
each  other;  the  Jamaica  Institute  with  museum  and  library 
where  among  other  historical  curios  may  be  seen  the  famous 
Shark  papers,  in  1799  thrown  overboard,  swallowed  by  a  shark, 
but  soon  after  rescued  from  his  maw,  to  the  discomfiture 
of  the  Yankee  captain  of  the  Nancy,  an  American  privateer. 
In  the  suburbs  of  the  city  within  easy  reach  is  King's  House, 
the  fine  residence  of  the  Governor-General.  Worth  visiting 
(electric  cars)  is  Hope  Gardens,  an  estate  of  220  acres,  with  a 
fine  collection  of  indigenous  plants  and  many  exotics.  The 
splendid  roads  over  the  island,  the  possibilities  for  delightful 
excursions, — the  most  enchanting  the  ascent  of  Blue  ]\Ioun- 
tain,  7423  feet, — would  tempt  to  a  longer  stay.  But  ')\'e  hasten 
onward  to  more  distant  and  greater  glories. 

Western  Tourists.  Tourists  living  west  of  the  Rocky 
IMountaius  may  prefer  to  sail  from  San  Francisco  or  Los 
Angeles  to  Balboa,  the  port  of  Panama,  at  a  considerable  sav- 


THE  VOYAGE  TO  PANAMA  H 

ing  of  expense,  though  not  of  time.  Express  steamers  twice 
a  month  make  the  voyage  from  San  Fraucisco  in  14  days  with 
the  sinule  eall  at  San  Pedro  (Los  Angeles),  fare  $85;  while 
three  times  a  month  there  are  other  hoats  whieli  do  not  stop 
at  San  Pedro,  but  make  eleven  calls  in  Mexico  and  Central 
America,  thus  affording  opportunity  to  see  some  of  those 
ports,  eonsuminu'  26  days  on  the  trip.  On  these  steamers  tiie 
fare  is  .$120.  All  these  boats  are  of  the  Paeitic  ^lail  Steam- 
ship Company.  By  way  of  New  York  the  journey  from  San 
Francisco  to  Panama  may,  with  close  connection,  l)e  made 
in   10  or  12  days. 

European  Tourists  may  sail  from  Southampton  ])y  Royal 
Mail  stiamer  in  18  days  to  Colon,  fare  $125,  or  from  Cher- 
l)ourg,  17  days,  fare  $100. 

Other  companies  which  have  steamers  sailing  from  Europe 
to  Colon  are  the  Hamburg-American,  four  times  monthly 
from  Havre  and  Hamburg,  the  Leylaud  C.  Harrison,  three 
times  a  month  from  Liverpool,  the  Cia.  Geuerale  Transat- 
lantica,  once  a  month  from  St.  Xazaire  and  once  from  Bor- 
deaux, the  Cia.  Transalbintica  and  llie  Cia.  La  Veloce,  each 
monthly  from  Barcelona  and  Genoa. 


CHAPTER  III 
THE  ISTHMUS— THE  CANAL— COLON 

Two  days  from  Jamaica,  six,  seven,  eight,  or  nine  from 
New  York,  one  arrives  at  Colon,  eager  to  witness  the  wonder- 
ful operations  now  well-nigh  concluded,  or  to  behold  the  fin- 
ished work,  when  great  ships,  no  longer  halting  at  the  At- 
lantic shore,  shall,  through  a  broad  channel  among  green  hills 
and  islands,  sail  onward  to  the  serene  Pacific.  Every  one 
knows  of  the  marvellous  transformation  on  the  Isthmus  dur- 
ing the  last  ten  years,  but  the  most  imaginative  person,  now 
arriving  for  the  first  time,  will  hardly  fancy  what  it  was  like 
in  1903. 

Colon,  once  called  the  most  repulsive,  disagreeable,  filthy 
hole  of  a  place  in  all  Christendom,  though  always  a  pretty 
picture  from  the  sea,  is  at  present  fair  enough  on  land.  The 
climate  only  remains  unchanged.  It  still  rains — and  rains : 
130  inches  a  year:  not  all  the  time  even  in  the  rainy  season, 
which  it  is  very  apt  to  be,  as  that  continues  eight  months, 
from  the  first  of  May  to  January,  leaving  a  dry  season  of 
only  four.  Even  in  this  period  it  is  liable  to  rain,  so  it  be- 
hoves every  one  to  be  provided  with  raincoat  and  umbrella, 
if  not  with  overshoes.  Everywhere  there  are  good  walks  and 
in  the  towns,  paved  streets,  beyond  which  the  tropical  sun  soon 
dries  the  mud. 

The  agreeableness  of  the  Isthmian  climate  as  a  whole  and 
in  various  localities,  if  to  some  extent  indicated  by  figures,  is 
largely  a  matter  of  individual  temperament.  With  little  dif- 
ference in  temperature  Colon  has  double  the  rainfall  of  Pan- 
ama with  a  corresponding  excess  of  humidity.  Yet  happily 
for  the  welfare  of  the  great  work  and  the  Avorkers,  it  has  been 
the  fashion  on  the  Isthmus  for  every  one  to  have  local  pride; 
to  like  his  own  station  the  best,  whether  on  either  shore,  or  in 
one  of  the  pleasant  villages  along  the  line.  It  is  genuine 
summer  weather  all  the  3'ear  around;  not  excessive  heat,  like 

12 


THE  ISTHMUS— THE  CANAL— COLON  l:! 

our  days  in  tlie  90  "s  and  100 's;  but  mostly  in  the  plain  80 's 
by  day,  with  cooler  and  comfortable  nights. 


Historical 

This  section  of  the  New  Woild  was  first  visited  in  1501  by  Colum- 
bus, who  touched  at  Nunibre  de  Dios  and  Porto  Bellu  east  of  Colon, 
perhaps  sailing  into  Limou  Bay;  this  he  certainly  did  in  15012,  nam- 
ing the  i^lace  Puerto  Naos,  Navy  Bay,  as  it  was  called  until  recent 
5'ears.  It  is  abont  400  years  ago,  September  25,  151. "5,  that  Yasco 
Nunez  de  Balboa  first  saw  the  great  Pacific,  then  named  the  South 
Sea, — not,  as  often  said,  from  the  hill  near  Gorgoua,  called  Bal- 
boa, more  properly  the  Cerro  Gigante,  but  from  another  120  miles 
east,  as  he  was  crossing  the  San  Bias  country.  Thence  he  con- 
tinued to  the  Bay  San  Miguel  of  Darien.  This  bold  explorer,  like 
many  another,  fared  badly.  He  was  beheaded  a  few  years  later 
at  the  age  of  forty-four.  In  1519  the  site  of  an  Indian  tishing 
village  near  the  farther  shore  was  selected  by  Governor  Pedrarias 
as  that  of  his  future  capital,  and  in  1521,  it  was  made  a  city  by 
royal  decree.  This  was  Old  Panama  which  soon  became  a  place  of 
great  wealth  and  luxury,  as  for  a  century  or  more  the  rich  treas- 
ures of  Peru  passed  by  this  route  to  Old  Spain.  Yet  it  suffered 
many  vicissitudes  from  fires,  buccaneers,  and  insurrections  till  at 
length,  when  its  prosperity  had  already  begun  to  wane  on  account 
of  the  ships  going  by  the  Strait  of  Magellan,  it  was  captured, 
phnulered,  and  destroyed,  by  the  freebooter,  Henry  Morgan,  Jan- 
uary 19,  1671,  never  to  be  rebuilt.  January  21,  1(573,  the  new 
city  of  Panama,  about  four  miles  distant,  was  dedicated.  Until 
1821  the  Isthmus  was  under  the  dominion  of  Spain,  and  after  that, 
in  spite  of  numerous  insurrections,  remained  a  part  of  the  country 
of  New  Granada,  later  Colombia,  nntil  its  sudden  practical  transfer 
to  the  United  Stales.  On  November  3,  1903,  its  independence  was 
lu'oclaimed,  on  the  sixth  the  infant  Kepublic  was  recognized  by 
the  United  States,  and  on  February  20,  1904,  a  treaty  with  the 
United  States  was  signed  by  which  it  became  a  Protectorate,  with 
a  position  similar  to  that  of  Cuba. 

As  early  as  1527  an  explorer  from  Panama  city  went  from  the 
Pacific  up  the  Rio  Grande  Yalley,  crossed  the  divide  by  Culebra 
and  sailed  down  the  Chagres  Kivcr  to  the  Atlantic  Ocean.  Soon 
this  was  a  pojiular  route, — to  sail  up  the  Chagres  to  a  ]ioint  fifteen 
miles  from  Panama  and  continue  by  land  to  that  city.  As  early 
as  1534  the  iilea  of  a  canal  occurred  to  that  great  monarch,  Charles 
y,  who  had  a  route  surveyed.  Pronounced  too  ex]>ensivo  even  for 
his  great   wealth,  the  project  was  abandoned,  but  3S1   years  later, 


14  THE  SOIITIT  AMERICAN  TOUR 

a  far  greater  canal  than  he  dreamed  of  will  be  opened  in  the  very 
same  track  which  his  surveyors  followed. 

The  French  Canal 

Various  canal  i^rojects  in  the  meanwhile  have  been  cherished, 
though  the  building  of  the  Panama  Railroad,  1850-1855,  had  a  de- 
terrent eli'ect  on  the  enterprise;  but  hi  May,  187G,  tlie  Govenunent 
of  Colombia  made  a  concession  for  the  work  to  a  French  Com- 
pany and  operations  soon  followed.  After  sm-veys  by  Lieutenant 
Wyse  a  sea-level  canal  from  Limon  Bay  to  Panama  by  the  pass  at 
Culebra  (meaning  snake)  was  decided  upon.  January  10,  1881, 
Ferdinand  de  Lesseps,  promoter  of  the  Suez  Canal,  made  the  cere- 
monial beginning  at  the  Pacific  entrance,  and  January  20,  1882, 
the  first  excavation  was  begun  near  the  continental  divide  where, 
in  the  section  called  the  Culebra  Cut,  work  has  proceeded  ever  since 
except  from  1888  to  1891.  The  French  were  badly  handicapped  by 
disease,  Colombian  interference,  incomplete  plans,  and  insufficient 
funds,  and  were  injured  at  home  by  rumors  of  sickness,  extrava- 
gance, etc.  In  1887  the  sea-level  plan  was  transfonned  to  a  lock- 
level,  and  February  4,  1889,  the  company  went  into  the  hands  of  a 
receiver.  Several  persons  were  convicted  of  fraud  including  Fei'di- 
nand  de  Lesseps,  who,  eighty-six  years  of  age,  was  probably  in  en- 
tire ignorance  of  the  business  details.     He  died  soon  after. 

In  1894  energetic  work  was  recommenced  by  the  new  company 
which  continued  operations  until  the  Americans  took  possession. 
May  4,  1904.  $225,000,000  had  been  spent  upon  the  work  for  which 
the  United  States  paid  $40,000,000.  Recently  it  was  estimated  to 
have  been  worth  $42,799,826.  The  advantages  of  the  Americans 
over  the  French  in  having  political  control  of  the  region,  modem 
sanitaiy  methods,  better  means  of  excavating,  and  unlimited  money 
should  be  considered;  and  due  credit  and  admiration  should  be 
awarded  by  all  to  de  Lesseps  and  the  Frenchmen  who  did  so  much, 
according  to  the  verdict  of  j^raise  rendered  by  our  own  engineers. 

Panama  Canal.  In  June,  1904,  Chief  Engineer  "Wallace, 
Col.  W.  C.  Gorgas,  and  others  sailed  to  the  Isthmus  to  pur- 
sue the  great  work  which  had  been  transferred  to  the  United 
States,  ]May  4,  by  the  French.  Digging  in  the  Culebra  Cut 
was  continued,  but  the  chief  labor  for  two  years  and  a  half 
was  to  remedy  the  unsanitary  conditions,  to  provide  accom- 
modations for  the  employees,  to  perfect  the  organization,  to 
reconstruct  and  double-track  the  railroad,  and  to  improve  the 
terminal  facilities :  necessary  preparations  for  the  colossal  task. 
The    sanitation   of    Colon    and    Panama   included    repaving, 


THE  ISTHMUS— THE  CANAL— COLON  15 

sewerage  systems,  and  fresh  water  sui)i)ly,  as  a  part  of  the 
war  against  yellow  and  malarial  fever,  A  proportionate  sum 
spent  on  sanitation  in  the  United  States  would  be  ifil2,000,- 
000,000  a  year,  one-third  of  the  entire  amount  devoted  to 
all  government  expenses.  Since  January,  lf)07,  the  work  has 
progressed  rapidly,  so  that  the  canal  is  expected  to  be  com- 
pleted and  in  operation  some  time  before  the  date  of  its  formal 
inauguration  January  1,  1915. 

In  si)ite  of  being  hampered  in  many  ways,  much  valuable 
work  was  accomplished  by  Chief  Engineer  John  F.  Wallace, 
who  resigned  after  one  year,  and  by  his  successor,  John  F. 
Stevens.  He  serving  until  1907  is  said  by  Col.  Goethals  to 
liave  laid  out  the  transportation  scheme  in  a  manner  which 
could  not  have  been  equaled  by  any  army  engineer.  The 
engineering  skill  and  the  great  administrative  ability  of  Col. 
George  W.  Goethals,  Chairman  of  the  Isthmian  Canal  Com- 
mission, Chief  Engineer,  President  of  the  Railroad,  Governor 
of  the  Zone,  etc.,  are  so  well  known  and  already  so  highly 
honored  as  to  need  no  encomiums  here.  A  benevolent  despot, 
able,  wise,  just,  and  honest,  it  is  indeed  a  pleasure  in  this 
day  and  generation  to  find  one  as  to  whose  virtues  all  are 
agreed,  whose  undying  fame  is  as  yet  free  from  the  malice  of 
petty  jealousy. 

The  length  of  the  Canal,  from  deep  water  on  one  side  to  the 
same  on  the  other,  that  is,  from  the  Toro  Point  breakwater 
on  the  Atlantic  side  to  Naos  Island  on  the  Paciiic  side,  is  about 
50  miles, — 40  miles  from  shore  to  shore.  From  the  Atlantic 
entrance,  by  a  channel  41  feet  deep  with  a  bottom  width 
of  500  feet,  it  is  seven  miles  to  Gatun,  two-thirds  of  which  is 
in  Limon  Bay,  the  rest  api)arently  along  a  fairly  broad  river. 
At  Gatun,  as  everybody  knows,  are  the  locks,  a  double  series 
of  three,  by  means  of  which  the  ships  are  raised  85  feet  to 
the  level  of  Gatun  Lake.  This,  with  an  area  of  164  s(iuare 
miles,  is  without  doubt  the  lai-gest  artificial  sheet  of  water  in 
the  world.  The  lake  nalurally  has  a  widely  varying  dej)th 
and  a  highly  irregular  shape,  with  large  and  small  arms,  i)rom- 
ontories,  and  islands;  but  vessels  may  sail  at  full  speed 
along  a  channel  from  500  to  1000  feet  in  width  \\>v  a  distance 
of  24  miles  until  at  l^as  Obisjto  the  Culebra  Cut  is  entered. 
This,    about   nine    miles    long,    has   a    bottom    width,    except 


16  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

on  the  curves,  of  300  feet  only,  making  a  slower  rate  of 
spe(>d  necessary.  At  Pedro  Miguel  the  ships  are  lowered 
by  one  lock  to  a  smaller  lake  covering  1200  acres,  30  feet 
below.  A  mile  and  a  half  beyond,  at  Miraflores,  the  ships, 
by  means  of  two  locks,  return  to  sea  level,  thence  sailing 
on,  81/^  miles  more,  out  into  the  Pacific. 

The  sail  from  ocean  to  ocean  will  to  all  be  of  intense 
interest,  though  more  highly  appreciated  by  those  who  visited 
the  region  before  it  was  submerged,  watched  the  great  shovels 
cutting  away  the  range  of  hills  which  forms  the  continental 
divide,  and  saw  the  locks  in  process  of  formation. 

The  great  Gatun  dam  seems  a  wonderful  creation,  though 
the  only  remarkable  feature  is  its  size.  It  should  be  borne 
in  mind  that  the  extensive  surface  of  the  lake  among  the  hills 
does  not  cause  any  greater  pressure  upon  the  wall  of  the  dam 
than  if  it  covered  but  a  single  acre;  the  depth  of  the  water 
being  the  determining  factor,  not  the  extent  of  surface.  The 
dam  is  nearly  a  mile  and  a  half  long  at  the  top;  half  a  mile 
wide  at  the  bottom,  400  feet  at  the  water  surface,  and  100 
at  its  crest,  designed  to  be  105  feet  above  sea  level  and  20 
feet  above  the  normal  level  of  the  lake:  a  very  wide  margin 
of  safety.  Of  the  entire  length  of  the  dam  only  500  feet, 
a  small  fraction,  one-fifteenth,  of  the  whole,  will  be  exposed 
to  the  maximum  water  head,  87  feet.  The  thickness  of  the 
dam  is  greater  than  was  deemed  necessary  by  engineers,  with 
the  result  that  there  is  no  seepage :  but  it  was  thought  best  to 
satisfy  over-apprehensive  Congressmen  by  the  employment  of 
excessive  caution.  The  interior  of  the  dam  is  an  impermeable 
mixture  of  sand  and  clay  obtained  by  dredging  above  and 
below,  placed  between  two  parallel  ridges  of  rock  and  ordi- 
nary material  obtained  from  the  steam-shovel  excavations. 
The  upstream  slope  of  slight  grade  is  thoroughly  riprapped 
ten  feet  below  and  ten  above  the  mean  water  level.  The  21 
million  cubic  yards  of  material  composing  the  dam,  which 
covers  400  acres,  is  sufficient  to  build  a  wall  three  feet  high 
and  thick  nearly  halfway  around  the  world. 

The  Gatun  Lake  will  receive  all  the  waters  of  the  Chagres 
basin  of  1320  square  miles  and  will  contain  at  its  ordinary 
level  206  billion  cnl)ic  feet  of  water.  An  outlet,  an  obvious 
necessity,  is  provided  in  the  spillway,  a  cut  through  a   hill 


THE  TSTIDIT^R— TIIK  CAXAL— COLON  17 

of  rock  nearly  in  the  center  of  the  dam,  southwest  of  the  locks. 
This  opening,  lined  witli  concrete,  is  1200  feet  long  and  285 
feet  wide,  with  the  i)ottoiii,  at  the  ujiper  end  ten  feet  above  sea 
level,  sloping  down. 

Until  the  construction  of  the  dam  was  well  advanced  the 
water  from  the  Chagres  and  its  tributaries  flowed  out  through 
this  opening.  Then  it  was  closed  at  tlie  upper  or  lake  end 
by  a  dam  of  concrete  808  feet  long  in  the  form  of  an  arc  of 
a  circle,  its  crest  69  feet  above  the  sea.  Upon  this,  13  con- 
crete piers  rise  to  a  height  of  115.5  feet,  with  steel  gates  by 
which  the  water  level  of  the  lake  will  be  regulated. 

The  immense  dou})le  locks  deserve  more  than  a  cursory 
glance.  Similar  in  construction  and  dimensions,  each  has  a 
usable  length  of  1000  feet  and  a  width  of  110  feet.  The 
chambers  have  floors  and  walls  of  concrete  with  mitering 
gates  at  each  end.  The  walls,  perpendicular  on  the  inside, 
are  45  to  50  feet  thick  near  the  bottom,  but  the  outer 
walls  narrow  from  a  point  24  feet  above  the  floor  to  a  thickness 
of  8  feet  at  the  top.  The  middle  wall  separating  the  double 
locks  is  60  feet  thick  and  81  high,  with  l)oth  faces  vertical ; 
but  in  the  upper  part  it  is  not  solid.  A  tunnel  in  the  wall 
has  three  divisions,  the  lowest  for  drainage,  the  middle  for 
electric  wires  to  operate  the  gate  and  valve  machinery,  the 
highest  as  a  passage  way  for  the  operators.  An  enormous 
amount  of  concrete  has  been  employed  for  the  locks,  four 
million  or  more  cubic  yards,  with  as  many  barrels  of  cement, 
enough  to  make  a  sidewalk  9  feet  wide  and  6  inches  thick 
more  than  twice  ai'ound  the  world. 

iMatciiing  the  Avails  are  immense  steel  gates,  7  feet  thick, 
65  feet  wide,  and  from  47  to  82  feet  high,  with  a  weight  of 
from  390  to  730  tons  each.  At  the  entrance  to  the  locks  are 
double  gates,  also  at  the  lower  end  of  the  upper  lock  in  each 
flight,  in  case  of  ramming  by  a  ship  accidentally  breaking 
through  the  fender  cliaiii;  for  tlu-re  are  24  chains  in  addition 
to  the  gates,  to  prevent  the  gates  being  rannui'd  by  a  sliip 
under  its  own  steam  or  having  escaped  from  the  towing  loco- 
motive. The  chains  are  lowered  into  a  groove  to  allow  tlio 
ships  to  pass. 

Ships  are  not  permitted  to  entci"  the  locks  under  tlieir  own 
steam,  but  they  are  towed  through  by  electric  locomotives, 


18  TIIK  SOlTTir  AMKKTCAX  TOUR 

usually  four  to  each  vessel,  two  ahead  and  two  astern,  the 
latter  to  keep  the  vessel  in  the  middle,  and  in  the  right  place. 
The  gates  and  valves  are  also  operated  by  electricity,  with 
power  obtained  tlirough  water  turbines  from  the  head  created 
by  Gatun  Lake.  The  locks  will  be  filled  and  emptied  by  a 
system  of  culverts,  one  of  which,  about  the  size  of  the  Hudson 
River  tunnels  of  the  Pennsylvania  Railroad,  18  feet  in  diame- 
ter, extends  along  the  side  and  middle  walls,  with  smaller 
branches  under  the  floor  of  the  locks.  The  water  enters  and 
leaves  by  holes  in  the  floor.  The  culverts  are  so  arranged  as 
to  economize  water  by  passing  it  from  one  twin  lock  to  the 
other.  To  save  both  time  and  water  each  lock  chamber  has  a 
single  gate  near  the  middle  dividing  it  into  two  parts,  only 
one  of  which  is  used  for  vessels  less  than  600  feet  long.  To 
till  and  empty  a  lock  requires  about  15  minutes:  to  pass 
through  the  three  at  Gatun,  about  an  hour  and  a  half,  and  as 
much  more  to  go  down  the  locks  on  the  Pacific  side.  The 
entire  passage  through  the  Canal  occupies  10  or  12  hours  ac- 
cording to  the  speed  of  the  ship,  in  the  narrower  parts  all 
being  obliged  to  go  slowly.  The  first  complete  passage  was 
made  by  the  tug  IMariner  with  two  barges,  May  19,  ]914. 
Leaving  Cristobal  at  6  a.  m.  they  reached  Balboa  at  6 :40  p.  m. 
The  opening  for  general  traffic  occurred  about  three  months 
later.  The  grand  celebration  of  the  completion  of  the  Canal, 
which  was  planned  for  ]\Iarch  15,  1915,  and  was  indefinitely 
postponed  on  account  of  the  European  war,  will  probably 
never  take  place. 

Colon.  Passengers  arriving  on  a  Panama  Railroad  Steam- 
ship at  Cristobal,  practically  a  part  of  Colon,  used  to  find  wait- 
ing on  the  dock  a  special  train  to  carry  them  across  the 
Isthmus.  The  tourist,  en  route  to  a  Pacific  port,  with  his 
heavy  baggage  checked  through,  may  let  that  go  on  to  Balboa, 
the  place  of  embarkation  on  the  other  side,  and  himself  remain 
with  hand  luggage  to  look  about  Colon.  Tourists  on  other 
steamers  land  at  a  Colon  dock,  from  which  it  is  a  five  minutes' 
walk  to  the  railway  station.  jMen  and  boys  are  about,  to  as- 
sist with  hand  baggage.  All  that  is  checked  through  should  be 
transported  to  Balboa  without  personal  care ;  but  the  cautious 
traveler  will  have  an  eye  upon  it  to  see  that  it  goes  to  U\e 
station  here,  and  aboard  the  proper  steamer  on  the  Pacific  side. 


THE  ISTHMUS— THE  CANxVL— COLON  19 

Hotels.  Washington,  E.  P.  Rooms  $3.00  per  day  and  up, 
December  1  to  June  1.  June  to  December  $2.00.  Meals  $1.00  each 
or  a  la  carte.     Imperial  Hotel,  Park  Hotel. 

Carricuje  Fare,  10  cents  for  one,  20  cents  lor  two,  2.5  cents  for 
three,  30  cents  for  four.  By  the  hour  75  cents  for  one,  $1.00  for 
two,  and  so  on. 

Laiuliim'  early  in  the  nioniin<>-  one  may  have  sufficient  time 
to  look  about  Colon  and  Cristobal  before  taking  the  afternoon 
train  for  Panama.  Those  planning  a  longer  stay,  to  enjoy 
some  of  the  excursions  available,  will  drive  at  once  to  the 
new  Washington  Hotel  on  Colon  Beach,  near  the  site  of  the 
old  house  of  that  name,  which,  giving  way  to  its  stately  suc- 
cessor, now  stands  in  the  rear  of  Christ  Church  and  there 
fulfills  its  original  purpose  to  supply  lodging  for  the  railway 
employees.  The  new  hotel,  built  of  hollow  tiles  and  re- 
enforced  concrete  in  a  modification  of  the  Spanish  ^Mission 
style,  is  quite  up  to  date  with  baths,  electric  lijihts,  lounging 
rooms,  etc.,  broad  verandas  on  the  side  towards  the  sea,  and  a 
pretty  garden  between  the  house  and  sea  wall.  A  swimming 
pool  has  been  constructed  near  by,  100x125  feet,  from  3  to  9 
feet  deep,  open  on  the  sea  side,  Avhere  a  baffle  wall  protects  it 
from  rough  water.  In  1903  I  looked  at  the  water  with  longing 
eyes,  but  the  numerous  sharks  deter  most  persons  from  ventur- 
ing into  the  ocean.  The  hotel  with  some  rooms  with  bath,  and 
others  without,  accommodates  175  persons.  Like  the  Tivoli  it 
has  no  bar,  and  since  April  24,  1913,  there  are  no  saloons  in  the 
Zone  outside  of  the  cities,  Colon  and  Panama,  which  except  for 
sanitary  regulations  are  under  Panamanian  control.  The 
hotel  enjoys  a  breeze  all  the  year  around  and  is  said  to  be  as 
cool  as  Bar  Harbor  in  July,  and  no  warmer  in  winter;  but  it 
did  not  seem  that  way  to  me  when  I  spent  a  few  days  in  Colon 
in  1903,  the  excessive  humidity  rendering  the  heat  oppressive. 

In  the  center  of  the  garden  in  front  of  the  hotel  is  a  rather 
ugly  monument,  a  red  granite  shaft  on  a  triangular  base, 
bearing  busts  of  John  L.  Stephens,  Henry  Chauncey,  antl  of 
William  II.  Aspinwall,  after  whom  Americans  called  the  town 
for  some  years.  To  these  three  men,  in  December,  1S4S,  a 
concession  was  granted  liy  Colombia  to  build  a  i-ailroad  across 
the  isthmus.  The  discovery  of  gold  in  Calit'oinia  made  it 
possible  to  raise  money  for  the  entei-pi-ise.     Work  began   in 


20  Til  10  SOirill  AMERICAN  TOUR 

1850,  jiiid  llie  first  train  crossed  the  continent  January  28, 
1855.  The  j)assenger  and  the  freight  trade  have  been  both 
iieavy  and  expensive,  so  that  from  1852  to  the  present  time 
annual  dividends  of  fi-om  3  to  61  per  cent  have  been  paid. 
IMost  of  the  traffic  to  California  and  Oregon  was  diverted  on 
the  completion  in  1869  of  the  transcontinental  railway,  but 
good  dividends  continued.  In  1881  the  French  Canal  Com- 
])any  bought  most  of  the  shares,  as  the  road  was  an  obvious 
necessity  to  their  work;  it  therefore  came  into  possession  of 
the  United  States  Government,  ]\Iay  4,  1904,  when  the  pur- 
chase of  the  French  rights,  work,  and  equipment  was  con- 
summated. 

The  city  of  Colon,  which  the  Colombian  Government  very 
properly  insisted  upon  calling  after  Columbus,  is  on  the  Island 
of  Manzanillo  (formerly  separated  by  a  narrow  strait  from 
the  main  land),  a  coral  reef  with  a  mangrove  swamp  at  the 
back.  Here  in  1850  some  shanties  and  stores  were  built  by 
the  pioneers  of  the  railroad.  The  village  grew  and  prospered 
in  spite  of  the  swampy  location,  which  was  improved  by  the 
deposits  of  rock  and  earth  made  by  the  French  on  the  part 
now  known  as  Cristobal  for  the  homes  of  the  employees.- 
In  1904  there  were  10,000  people  in  the  town,  9000  living  in 
shanties  on  stilts  in  the  terrible  section  back  of  Front  street. 
Now  in  Cristobal-Colon  there  are  20,000  people,  and  the  place 
is  drained  and  healthful. 

Just  east  of  the  Washington  Hotel  is  the  gray  stone  build- 
ing, modified  Gothic,  of  Christ  Episcopal  Church,  dedicated 
in  1865.  Built  by  contributions  from  the  Panama  Railroad 
Company  and  various  missionary  societies,  it  was  at  first 
American,  after  1883  Anglican,  and  in  1907  again  American 
Episcopal.  Whites  and  blacks  here  worship  together,  with  a 
majority  of  negroes. 

Half  a  mile  farther  on  is  the  fine  Colon  hospital  with  525 
beds,  of  course  a  Commission  affair.  Built  right  over  the 
water  on  piles  a  few  feet  high,  one  is  almost  tempted  to  be 
sick  to  be  housed  in  so  attractive  a  place.  Beyond  is  the  quar- 
antine station  where  persons  coming  from  plague  or  fever 
ports  are  detained  six  or  seven  days. 

The  numerous  negroes  from  Jamaica  and  ^Martinique  will 
interest  many,  their  dwellings  on  the  back  streets,  the  drainage 


TUP]  ISTII.MI'S— THE  CAXAI>— COLON  21 

ditch,  and  Front  street  lined  with  stores,  where  curios  of  a 
sort  could  formerly  be  purchased  better  than  in  Panama, — 
bags  or  caps  of  cocoanut  skins,  heads  carved  from  coeoanuts, 
and  carved  gourds,  large  and  small,  the  latter  used  as  drink- 
ing cups. 

In  Cristobal  are  dwellings  of  the  Canal  employees;  a  large 
building  occupied  by  the  Commissary  Department  contains 
a  cold  storage  plant,  a  l)akpry,  and  a  laundry,  which  serve  all 
the  employees  of  the  canal,  the  railroad,  and  the  U.  S.  Gov- 
ernment on  the  Isthmus : — these  with  their  families  number- 
ing at  times  60,000.  Also  there  is  a  Commission  Hotel  with 
meals  at  30  cents  for  employees,  50  cents  for  transients,  pro- 
viding better  fare  than  can  be  procured  in  most  i)arts  of  the 
United  States  for  the  price  to  employees;  and  a  Y.  M.  C.  A. 
building  which  supplies  a  reading  room,  opportunity  for  games 
and  for  social  diversions  including  dances,  lectures,  and  other 
entertainments.  There  were  five  other  similar  structures 
along  the  line. 

At  the  end  of  the  Point  are  two  houses  constructed  for 
Ferdinand  de  Lesseps  and  his  son,  now  moved  closer  together 
and  devoted  to  offices  of  the  Commissary  and  Health  Depart- 
ments. Beyond  is  the  statue  of  the  great  Discoverer:  the 
monument,  cast  at  Turin,  a  replica  of  one  in  Lima,  presented 
by  Empress  Eugenie  to  the  Republic  of  Colombia  to  be  erected 
at  Colon.  Columbus,  of  noble  countenance,  is  represented  in 
attitude  of  explanation  to  an  Indian  maiden  personifying 
America,  whose  face  expresses  wonder  and  alarm. 

Porto  Bello.  With  time  to  sp;n-e  an  excursion  may  be  made 
to  the  beautiful  harbor  of  Porto  Bello,  18  mik's  northeast  of 
Colon,  where  the  Commission  has  been  operating,  in  a  great 
rock  quarry,  one  of  the  largest  stone  crusliers  in  the  world. 
I\Iillions  of  cubic  yards  of  rock  have  l)een  taken  from  here,  a 
smaller  size  for  tlie  concrete  of  the  Catun  locks  and  spillway, 
a  larger  size  for  the  Colon  breakwater.  Porto  Bello  and 
Nombre  de  Dios  were  the  two  safe  harbors  found  by  the 
Spaniards  on  this  coast.  The  former  has  been  a  Spanish  town 
since  151)7.  AVith  a  fine  location  the  town  is  considered 
unhealthy,  having  an  extraordinary  amount  of  rain,  2;{7 
inches  in  1900.  The  former  daily  boat  service  thither,  now 
discontinued,  then  allowed  two  hours  or  more  to  view  tlie 


22  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

American  settlement  of  1000  people  at  the  stone  quarries  and 
to  cross  the  bay  to  the  old  village  to  see  the  finest  ruins  on  the 
Istlinius:  an  old  customs  house,  old  bridges,  the  remains  of 
Fort  San  Jerome,  and  the  old  plaza.  There  is  a  population  of 
over  2000,  Avith  a  church  and  stores. 

Some  miles  beyond  Porto  Bello  begins  the  large  section  of 
country  inhabited  by  the  San  Bias  Indians,  who  have  been 
smart  and  sensible  enough  to  keep  the  white  man  out  of  their 
territory,  thus  preserving  their  independence  to  the  pres- 
ent day.  They  come  to  Colon  to  trade,  but  seldom  allow  a 
stranger  to  remain  over  night  in  their  territory. 

San  Lorenzo  Fort.  Another  excursion  of  interest  is  to  San 
Lorenzo  Fort,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Chagres  River,  either  by 
sea  in  a  motor  boat,  or  better,  in  a  canoe  down  the  river  from 
Gatun,  a  sail  of  ten  miles,  during  which  one  has  a  glimpse  of 
the  real  tropical  jungle ;  the  sea  route  affords  a  better  view  of 
the  old  fort.  The  remains  are  very  complete,  an  outer  wall, 
and  a  castle  to  be  entered  by  a  drawbridge.  There  are  strong 
rooms,  galleries  for  prison  cells,  manacles,  etc.,  seeing  which 
the  tourist  is  apt  to  be  more  contented  with  his  own  lot.  At 
the  foot  of  the  hill  is  the  little  village  of  Chagres. 

In  front  of  Cristobal  a  construction  of  five  piers  is  being 
made  enclosing  ten  docks  capable  of  berthing  ships  1000  feet 
long,  these  being  the  Atlantic  terminal  docks  for  the  canal. 
Across  the  bay  is  Toro  Point.  From  this  headland  a  break- 
water has  been  constructed  to  protect  the  canal  entrance  and 
Limon  Bay  from  the  violent  northers  which  occasionally  visit 
this  coast.  It  will  also  reduce  the  amount  of  silt  to  be  washed 
into  the  dredged  canal.  From  Toro  Point  the  breakwater 
extends  northeast  for  a  distance  of  over  two  miles.  The 
bottom  width  varies  with  the  depth  of  the  water;  at  the  top 
it  is  15  feet  wide  and  10  feet  above  mean  sea  level.  A 
double-track  trestle  was  first  constructed,  from  which  carloads 
of  rock  were  dumped  into  the  sea.  The  cost  is  about  $5,500,- 
000.  It  has  recently  been  decided  to  construct  an  additional 
though  smaller  breakwater  on  the  Colon  side,  extending  \vest, 
some  distance  north  of  Cristobal  Point.  Fortifications  for 
the  defense  of  the  canal  have  been  raised,  both  at  Toro  Point 
and  on  the  east  side  at  Margarita  Island,  one  mile  north  of 
^Fanzanillo. 


CHAPTER  IV 
COLON  TO  PANAMA— PANAMA  CITY 

Four  daily  trains  in  about  2  hours  witii  special  train  for  si.£rht- 
seers,  round  trip  tare  $4.00,  from  Colon  at  S  a.  ni.,  with  barjje  -^en*- 
ice  on  lake,  $1.50  extra. 

Guides  for  tourist  parties  to  inspect  Canal,  $7.50  per  day,  on 
application  to  Railway  Ticket  Agents,  Colon  or  Panama. 

"While  the  sail  througli  the  great  canal  will  be  an  ex- 
traordinary delight,  the  railroad  ride  will  also  atTord  much 
pleasure.  On  leaving  Colon  the  line  passes  various  docks,  the 
Government  printing  plant,  the  marine  shop  and  dry  dock  at 
]\Iount  Hope,  and  the  main  storehouse  of  supj^lies  for  canal 
and  railroad.  On  the  east  side  of  the  railroad,  opposite  the 
warehouse,  is  ]\Iount  Hope  Cemetery,  where  many  French  and 
others  are  buried,  on  a  knoll  which  for  a  time  was  called  ]\Ion- 
key  Hill  on  account  of  the  many  monkeys  there.  These 
creatures  are  found  in  the  woods  all  over  the  Isthmus.  Stone 
piers  which  may  be  seen  on  the  east  beyond  ^lindi  were 
erected  by  the  French  for  a  viaduct  with  the  design  of  relocat- 
ing tlie  railroad.  This,  obviously  necessary  for  the  Americans, 
has  been  accomplished  at  a  cost  of  nearly  $I),000.000.  In  the 
swamp  lands  along  here  nuich  papyrus  is  growing. 

New  Gatun.  From  Colon  to  Gatun  a  distance  of  7  miles 
the  track  rises  95  feet.  New  Gatun,  on  the  hill,  is  a  village 
but  a  few  years  old,  the  site  of  the  ancient  town  now  Ix-ing 
covered  l)y  tiie  dam.  In  1!)04  Gatun  was  a  busy  i)la{'e  on  the 
Chagres  River,  where  sometimes  100  dugouts  loadtti  with 
bananas  would  tie  at  the  bank,  and  seven  or  eight  car  loads  a 
week  would  ))e  shipped.  In  former  days  the  railroad  followed 
up  the  Chagres  Valley,  but  now  it  is  obliged  to  turn  east  to 
make  a  detour  around  the  lake.  It  is  desirabl(>  to  alight  liere 
to  examine  the  locks  and  if  possible  the  spillway.     Along  tiie 

23 


24  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

edge  of  llic  lock  walls  may  be  seen  the  cog  rail  for  the  towing 
locomotives,  and  fjirlher  l)ack  the  retui'n  track  without  center 
cog.  Tall  conci-ete  columns  along  the  top  of  the  walls  are  the 
standards  for  eleetric  lights  to  illuminate  the  locks.  Tall 
towers,  apparently  light  houses,  are  range  lights  on  the  center 
lilies  ol"  the  straight  stretches  of  the  canal,  so  that  a  vessel 
lining  up  with  the  tower  would  know  it  was  on  the  center  line 
of  the  canal.  From  the  building  on  Gatun  hill  containing  the 
office  of  the  Division  Engineer  may  be  had  the  best  view  of  the 
canal  obtainable  from  any  one  point.  Northward  are  thr 
waters  of  Limon  Bay ;  and  the  masts  of  shipping  at  Colon 
harbor  are  visible.  Close  at  hand  are  the  locks  and  dam  and  a 
broad  stretch  of  the  lake. 

Leaving  Gatun  the  new  road  turns  east  along  Gatun  ridge, 
then  south  with  pretty  glimpses  of  the  jungle,  crossing  the 
Gatun  Valley  to  jMonte  Lirio.  From  this  point  it  skirts  the 
east  shore  of  the  lake  to  Bas  Obispo  at  the  beginning  of  the 
Culebra  Cut.  Several  immense  embankments  were  necessary 
to  cross  the  Gatun  Valley  section  above  the  surface  of  the  lake, 
and  others  were  made  for  dumping  the  spoil  from  Culebra 
Cut  near  its  north  end.  Half  a  mile  beyond  Monte  Lirio  the 
railroad  crosses  the  Gatun  River  by  a  steel  girder  bridge  318 
feet  long,  built  in  three  spans,  one  of  which  may  be  lifted  to 
permit  access  by  boat  to  the  upper  arm  of  the  lake.  Another 
steel  girder  bridge,  one-quarter  of  a  mile  long,  crosses  the  Cha- 
gres  River  at  Gamboa,  with  the  channel  span  a  200-foot  truss, 
the  other  fourteen,  plate  girder  spans,  each  80  feet  long. 
From  this  bridge,  at  the  north  end  of  which  a  new  town-site 
has  been  laid  out,  a  glimpse  of  the  northern  end  of  Culebra 
Cut  may  be  had.  It  was  originally  expected  to  carry  the  road 
through  the  Cut,  10  feet  above  the  water  level,  but  the  slides 
making  this  impracticable,  the  relocation  has  been  made  by 
cutting  through  a  ridge  of  solid  rock  and  working  around  east 
of  Gold  Hill,  passing  Culebra  at  a  distance  of  2  miles. 
Then  the  track  runs  down  the  Pedro  INIiguel  Valley  to  Pedro 
]\Iiguel  Station,  where  it  is  within  300  feet  of  the  locks.  The 
highest  elevation  of  the  track  is  270  feet  above  the  sea  about 
opposite  Las  Cascadas.  The  Continental  Divide  is  crossed 
240  feet  above  the  sea  in  about  the  same  line  as  Culebra. 

Journeying  by  the  new  road  from  Gatun,  the  old  traveler  or 


COLON  TO  PANAMA  25 

resident  will  miss  some  i'ainiliar  names,  the  bearers  of  which, 
if  not  concealed  under  water,  are  now  remote  and  vanishing. 
Lion  and  Tiger  Hills  were  small  hamlets,  but  Bohio  was  quite 
a  place,  where  the  French  had  a  machine  shop.  It  was  once 
considered  as  a  i)0ssil)le  site  for  the  locks  and  dam.  Frijoles 
(beans)  and  Tal)ernilla  have  been  places  of  some  importance 
and  Gorgona  of  more,  because  here  were  the  American  machine 
shops,  now  removed  to  Balboa.  The  place  with  the  peculiar 
name  Matachin,  which  everybody  remembered,  Avill  not  be 
covered  over  with  water,  but  like  others  farther  on  will  relapse 
into  a  small  hamlet.  The  prevalent  notion  that  this  name  was 
derived  from  matar,  to  kill,  and  Chi  no,  and  was  applied  on 
account  of  the  wholesale  deaths  of  Chinese  is  incorrect.  It  is 
the  Spanish  word  meaning  a  dance  by  grotes(iue  figures. 

Bas  Obispo  beyond  Gamboa  is  one  of  the  old  places  still 
visible,  at  the  north  end  of  the  Culebra  Cut.  Near  by,  De- 
cember 12,  1908,  occurred  the  greatest  accident  in  the  con- 
struction of  the  Canal  when  44,000  pounds  of  45  per  cent 
dyiuimite  which  had  been  packed  into  lifty-three  holes  were 
set  off  by  the  explosion  of  one,  as  the  last  hole  was  being 
tamped.  As  the  hour  Avas  11.10  many  men  were  passing  home 
to  lunch.  The  hillside,  falling  into  the  Cut,  as  had  been 
planned  for  a  later  hour,  buried  several  men,  and  others  were 
struck  b}'  flying  rock.  In  all  twenty-six  were  killed  and  a 
dozen  permanently  maimed.  Near  Bas  Obispo  is  Camp  Elli- 
ott, wliere  a  battalion  of  marines  has  long  been  stationed. 

Empire.  Las  Cascadas,  where  once  a  stream  tumbled  down 
a  precipice  40  feet  towards  the  Chagi-es,  formerly  came  next, 
then  Empire,  one  of  the  largest  of  the  Canal  villages.  Here 
the  French  began  excavations  in  the  Cut,  as  previously  nuMi- 
tioned,  January  20,  1882,  before  a  large  assemblage  of  officials 
of  the  Canal  Company  and  of  Panama.  The  work  was  blessed 
by  the  Bishop  and  the  too  connnon  iliaiii[>agne  celebrated  the 
occasiou. 

Culebra  was  the  real  capital  of  the  Zone  after  -loliii  F. 
Stevens  in  1!)()6  moved  his  (piarters  there  from  Ancon.  Here 
has  been  the  home  and  office  of  Col.  Goethals,  the  head  of 
everything,  and  of  other  prominent  ofTicials.  In  1008  Culel)ra 
had  a  j)opula1ion  of  v)7)\(\,  but  is  now  much  smaller.  The  side 
of  the  hill  towards  the  Cut  has  been  gradually  slipping  away, 


2G  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

tiikiii^'  a  part  of  the  village,  but  so  slowly  that  the  houses  were 
first  removed  to  the  rear  slopes. 

The  average  depth  of  the  Cut  through  its  nine  miles  of 
length  is  120  feet.  The  heaviest  point  is  near  Culebra  vil- 
lage between  Gold  Ilill  on  the  east  side  and  Contractors'  Hill 
on  the  west,  where  the  depth  averages  375  feet.  The  summit 
of  (iold  Hill  is  660  feet  above  the  sea,  of  Contractors'  Hill, 
410  feet.  Beyond  Gold  Hill  is  the  troublesome  Cucuracha 
slide,  though  the  largest  is  the  one  at  the  Culebra  village  on 
the  west.  One  slide  here  involved  1,550,000  cubic  yards.  At 
this  point  the  Cut  is  about  2000  feet  across.  The  dwellings 
of  the  employees  here,  as  at  Cristobal  and  all  along  the  line, 
were  very  pretty  and  comfortable  with  their  screened  ve- 
randas. Market  facilities  have  been  good  with  prices  gen- 
erally lower  than  at  home  for  meat  and  other  things  brought 
in  cold  storage  from  the  States.  The  climate  is  not  objection- 
able to  the  majority,  and  many  were  grieved,  when,  the 
Canal  being  finished  and  only  a  select  few  remaining  for 
its  service,  they  were  obliged  to  return  home  again.  Some, 
no  doubt,  being  now  weaned  from  excessive  affection  for  one 
particular  spot,  have  gone  to  other  parts  of  Spanish  Amer- 
ica. There,  intelligent  men  of  the  right  spirit,  who  have 
saved  a  portion  of  their  earnings,  will  find  agreeable  oppor- 
tunities for  work  and  for  investments  of  various  kinds. 

Beyond  Pedro  Miguel  is  the  Miraflores  Lake  and  the  two 
Miraflores  locks  by  which  the  ships  reach  sea  level  again. 
After  passing  through  a  concrete  lined  tunnel  736  feet  long, 
Ancon  Hill,  overlooking  the  Pacific  entrance  to  the  Canal,  is 
straight  ahead.  One  more  station,  Corozal,  headquarters  of 
the  Pacific  Division,  and  the  city  of  Panama  is  reached. 

Panama  City 

Hotels.  The  Tivoli,  $5.50  and  v;p  a  day,  American  plan;  the 
Central,  $3.00  a  day,  American  plan ;  the  International,  Metropole, 
and  several  others,  smaller  and  less  expensive,  but  some  of  them 
neat  and  respectable. 

Carriage  Fare,  10  cents,  U.  S.  currency,  for  one  person,  20  cents 
for  two,  etc.,  in  Panama  City,  or  20  cents  and  40  cents  silver, 
Panama  money.     Panama  to  Balboa  docks,  50  cents  IT.  S.  currency. 

Automobile  Tariff,  first  hour,  for  cars  seating  five,  six,  or  seven 
persons,  $5.00,  $6.00,  or  $7.00;  second  hour  $1.00  less.     Local  fares 


PANAMA  CITY  27 

about  the  city,  50  cents  for  each  person.  To  Balboa  Docks  and 
return,  $3.50,  five-seat  car;  .$5.00,  seven-seat  car.  To  Old  Panama 
and  return,  $5.00,  or  $7.00,  if  within  one  hour;  if  more,  on  hourly 
basis. 

Electric  Cars,  fare  five  cents,  run  every  ten  minutes  from  Hotel 
Tivoli  past  the  railway  station  down  Avenue  Central  to  the  Na- 
tional Palace  near  the  sea  wall;  also  beyond  the  Tivoli  to  the 
Catholic  Chapel  on  the  Ancon  Hospital  road.  Of  two  other  lines, 
one  runs  from  Santa  Ana  Park  by  C,  IGth,  and  B  streets,  and 
so  on  to  Balboa ;  another  branching  from  Central  avenue  at  13th 
street  and  following  North  avenue  goes  out  the  Sabanas  road. 

The  Republic  of  Panama,  proclaimed  Nov.  3,  1903,  by 
treaty  of  Feb.  26,  1904,  enine  iiiuler  the  protection  of  the 
United  States,  receiving  .$10,000,000  casb  for  the  sovereignty 
of  the  Canal  Zone  and  after  1913  a  yearly  rental  of  $250,- 
000.  The  form  of  government  of  the  Republic  is  similar  to 
that  of  the  United  States.  The  country  is  340  miles  long 
from  east  to  west,  from  the  Atrato  River  on  the  Colombia 
side  to  Costa  Rica  on  tlie  west.  From  north  to  south  its 
widest  point  is  120  miles  in  the  province  of  Veraguas,  and  the 
narrowest  less  than  40  in  Darien.  There  are  mountains  7000 
feet  high  in  Darien  and  11,000  feet  in  Chii'iciui ;  tlie  lowest 
pass,  312  feet,  is  that  used  by  the  Canal  and  Railroad.  The 
population,  outside  the  Zone  about  340,000,  includes  36,000 
Indians,  and  a  very  large  proportion  of  negroes  and  mixed 
races.  The  country  has  excellent  possibilities  for  agriculture 
and  cnllle  raising,  with  smaller  ones  for  minerals. 

Panama.  The  new  city  of  Panama,  founded  January  21, 
1673,  was  soon  protected  by  a  sea-wall,  still  standing,  and  on 
the  single  land  side  by  a  wall,  and  a  deep  moat  cros.sed  by  a 
drawl)i"idge.  To  make  it  i)roof  against  further  raids  two 
forts  were  erected  on  the  land  side  and  one  by  tlie  sea.  The 
residences  built  of  wood  suffered  from  various  fires  so  that 
few  old  buildings  renuiin,  yet  tlie  masonry  structures  have 
the  appearance  of  age.  One  hnmli-cd  and  twenty  years  ago 
the  city  had  7857  inhabitants,  double  that  in  1870,  and  in 
1911,  37,505. 

Hotel  Tivoli.  Arriving  at  Panama,  almost  every  one  who 
can  alToi'd  it  will  go  to  the  Hotel  Tivoli,  near  the  station,  de- 
lightfully situated  at  tlie  foot  of  Ancon  Hill,  on  the  farther 
side  of  a  small  park  called  the  Plaza  de  Lessens.     It   is  in- 


28  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

tended  some  day  to  erect  in  tlu;  center  of  the  i)la/,a  a  statue 
to  tlie  hero  of  tlie  Suez  Canal,  initiator  of  the  great  work  at 
l*auaina.  On  a  knoll,  overlooking  the  city  and  part  of  the 
bay,  the  hotel  has  many  rooms  opening  oh  the  broad  verandas 
■which  afford  charming  prospects.  The  nights  are  comfort- 
ably cool,  and  the  table  affords  good  American  fare.  The 
hotel  was  erected  by  the  Government  especially  to  accommo- 
date Canal  employees  on  their  arrival,  and  persons  whose 
business  with  the  administration  caused  them  to  come  to  the 
Isthmus.  Also  it  was  designed  to  afford  recreation  to  em- 
ployees on  the  line  desirous  of  an  occasional  trip  to  the  city. 
AVith  this  end  in  view  a  large  dance  hall  was  provided  about 
80x40  feet,  where  the  Tivoli  Club,  organized  among  the  em- 
ployees, has  given  dances  two  Saturday  evenings  each  month. 
The  hotel,  opened  Jan.  1,  1907,  has  220  guest  rooms,  and  a 
dining-room  seating  700.  The  building,  314  feet  long  with 
wings  156  feet  deep,  has  a  court  in  front  91  feet  in  depth 
with  a  carriage  road  and  garden.  Of  late  on  account  of  in- 
creased travel  the  hotel  has  been  enlarged  and  is  much  used 
by  tourists.  The  prices,  $5.50  a  day  and  up,  will  seem  reason- 
able enough  to  patrons  of  the  large  New  York  hotels. 

The  Hotel  Central  may  be  preferred  by  some  on  account 
of  the  lower  prices,  $3.00  and  up,  or  because  it  is  in  the 
center  of  things  on  the  principal  plaza  of  Panama  (now 
called  the  Independencia),  opposite  the  cathedral;  its  loca- 
tion and  its  clientele  afford  an  opportunity  to  see  more  of 
Spanish  American  life.  The  building  is  four  stories  high, 
in  Spanish  style  around  a  central  court  or  patio.  Built  in 
1880  it  has  recently  been  renewed,  and  the  rooms  are  large 
and  airy.  The  table  formerly  left  something  to  be  desired, 
but  has  very  likel}^  improved  with  the  competition.  Once  it 
was  the  only  place  where  anybody  could  go. 

The  International  Hotel  is  most  convenient  to  the  railway 
station  on  the  Railway  Plaza ;  a  large  fireproof  building  in 
Spanish  ^Mission  style,  completed  in  1912,  and  affording  all 
modern  conveniences.  The  smaller  hotels  on  the  Avenida 
Central  may  be  patronized  by  those  to  whom  the  saving  of  a 
few  dollars  is  important.  The  Hotel  Metropole  is  pleasantly 
situated  on  the  Santa  Ana  Plaza. 

A  new  and  modern  hotel,  accommodating  500  persons,  built 


PANAMA  CITY  29 

hy  British  capital  on  Chiriqui  Point  overlooking  the  bay,  is 
the  newest  addition  to  the  hotels  of  Panama. 

Sight-seeing  may  begin  from  the  Tivoli  or  International 
with  a  walk  or  ride  down  the  Avenida  Central,  which  goes 
first  in  a  rather  soutlierly  direction,  but  in  town  when  cross- 
ing the  plaza  about  east  and  west.  The  northern  part  of  the 
town  is  rather  new,  belonging  to  the  Canal  period,  French  and 
American.  On  the  right  at  some  little  distance  a  three- 
story  white  concrete  building,  very  ornate,  with  broad  portico, 
is  the  club  house  of  the  Spanish  Benevolent  Society.  Next 
door  is  the  American  Consulate.  Two  blocks  farther  is  the 
Plaza  Santa  Ana,  with  trees,  plants,  and  walks,  where  on 
Thursday  nights  there  is  a  band  concert  and  hundreds  of 
people  promenading.  Besides  the  Church,  there  are  saloons, 
a  Variety  Theater  with  roof  garden,  promenade  balcony,  and 
fine  interior  decorations,  erected  1911-12,  and  on  the  west 
side  the  ]\retro{)ole  Hotel.  On  the  road,  one  block  south  of 
the  plaza,  leading  west  to  Balboa  is  the  Santo  Tomas  Hos- 
pital, with  350  beds,  under  the  direction  of  an  American  doc- 
tor with  good  nurses  and  physicians,  maintained  l)y  the 
Panama  Government.  The  three  cemeteries  are  beyond,  one 
each  for  Chinese,  Hebrews,  and  Christians.  Tragic  tales  are 
told  of  the  yellow  fever  days,  and  space  for  burial  is  still 
leased. 

Three  blocks  from  the  Plaza  on  the  Central  avenue  is  the 
Church  of  La  Merced.  Diagonall}"  across  from  it  is  a  piece 
of  the  old  wall  formerly  extending  from  tidewater  on  one 
side  to  the  other.  One  should  climb  the  steps  to  get  an  idea 
of  the  walls,  the  cost  of  which  caused  wonder  to  the  King 
of  Spain.  This  was  one  of  the  bastions  commanding  the 
drawbridge  and  the  sahanas  or  plains  to  the  north.  Here 
the  youth  now  play  tennis,  and  a  circus  encamps  once  a  year. 
The  area  is  at  least  1500  square  feet,  and  there  is  a  diop  (»f 
from  30  to  35  feet  to  the  level  outside.  A  parapet  3 
feet  high  still  shows  the  embrasures  for  the  brass  cannon.  The 
old  wall  extending  to  the  south  had  rock  faces  with  earth  be- 
tween. 

Beyond  this  wall  is  the  real  city,  moslly  of  natives,  with 
its  own  peculiar  spirit  aiul  fascinalidn.  They  always  come 
back,  it  is  said,  when  ]»co|)l('  go  awjiy.     Iln-r  in  the  narrow 


30  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

streets,  plazas,  churches,  even  stores,  and  on  the  old  sea  wall, 
a  spell  is  woven  over  those  who  linger,  which  has  alluring 
power.  The  Plaza  Indcpendencia,  three  blocks  from  the  wall, 
is  the  heart  of  the  city,  a  charming  place,  with  the  Cathedral 
on  the  west,  the  Central  Hotel  east,  the  Bishop's  Palace  north, 
and  the  IMunicipal  Building  and  the  French  Administration 
Building  on  the  south.  The  last,  four  stories  high,  was  built 
in  1875  as  a  hotel,  but  leased  to  the  French  and  used  for 
offices.  The  Americans  took  possession  of  it  May  4,  1904,  but 
finding  it  to  be  infested  with  the  stegomia  mosquitoes  dur- 
ing the  yellow  fever  epidemic  in  1905,  it  was  abandoned  by 
them  in  1906  when  the  Chief  Engineer  moved  to  Culebra, 
It  is  now  occupied  by  the  health  and  municipal  bureaus  of 
Panama  and  by  their  printing  office. 

The  new  Municipal  Building,  on  the  site  of  the  old  cahildo, 
council  chamber,  in  which  independence  was  declared  in  1821, 
was  completed  in  1910  and  is  called  the  handsomest  building 
in  the  city.  Here  are  various  offices,  the  Coiumbus  Library 
W'ith  valuable  historical  works,  a  marble  bacchante  in  the  cor- 
ridor, and  a  front  door  of  a  dozen  varieties  of  native  hard 
w^oods. 

The  Bisliop's  Palace  erected  1880,  besides  his  residence, 
offices,  and  a  boys'  school,  has  in  one  corner  the  office  of  the 
Panama  Lottery.  Though  gambling  is  prohibited  by  the 
Panama  Constitution,  the  lease  of  the  company  is  good  till 
1918.  Every  Sunday  morning  drawings  are  made  for  prizes 
ranging  from  $1.00  to  $3500,  taken  from  10,000  tickets.  It 
is  said  that  most  of  the  money  comes  from  the  Canal  workers. 
The  offices  of  several  of  the  steamship  companies  are  on  the 
Plaza,  but  that  of  the  Peruvian  Line  is  on  11th  street  near 
Central  avenue. 

Continuing  on  the  Central  avenue,  passing  on  the  right  the 
French  consulate  and  the  American  Legation,  one  reaches  the 
National  Palace  or  Government  Building  on  the  left,  occupy- 
ing a  whole  square,  with  a  central  patio.  The  Assembly  Halls 
and  offices  are  on  the  south  side,  the  National  Theatre  on  the 
north  and  various  Government  offices  on  the  sides.  Begun  in 
1905  it  was  finished  in  1908.  It  is  of  the  modified  Italian 
renaissance  style  and  is  said  to  be  fireproof.  The  handsome 
theater  seats  1000  people.     There  is  a  week  or  two  of  opera 


pana:ma  city  31 

and  of  theater  every  year.  Other  entertainments  are  occa- 
sionally held,  and  public  meetings  of  a  non-political  nature. 

The  Plaza  Bolivar,  formerly  San  Francisco,  is  at  the  south- 
east corner  of  the  building,  with  the  San  Francisco  Church  and 
Franciscan  convent  on  the  east  side,  the  latter  in  ruins,  de- 
stroyed by  fire  in  1756 ;  the  former,  also  burned,  was  restored 
1785-1790.  The  church  is  a  basilica  with  a  nave  and  two 
aisles,  the  arches  supported  by  square  masonry  pillars,  and 
with  transept  and  apse.  The  high  altar  is  wood  painted  to 
imitate  marl)le.  A  picture  in  a  shrine  at  the  left  of  the 
entrance  has  a  very  definite  representation  of  purgatory,  with 
a  view  of  heavenly  regions  above. 

The  ruins  of  the  old  convent  still  show  a  fine  row  of  arches. 
"Within  are  wooden  ])uildings  now  used  as  schools. 

From  the  Central  avenue  going  along  the  water  front,  one 
will  pass  a  Methodist  Episcopal  Church,  parsonage,  and  school, 
buildings  of  concrete  erected  in  1908.  At  the  sea  front  is 
the  south  bastion  called  The  Sea  ^YaU.  Under  the  arches  are 
many  dungeons  once  filthy,  where  thousands  of  criminals  and 
political  suspects  suffered  and  died.  These  are  used  no  longer, 
but  the  Chiriciui  prison,  suitably  provided  and  clean,  is  here 
located,  partly  in  the  large  barrack  building  formerly  occupied 
by  the  garrison  of  soldiers.  In  the  late  afternoon  or  early  even- 
ing one  should  visit  this  interesting  spot.  Close  by  is  the 
new  home  of  the  University  Cluh  where  some  say  the  best 
meals  in  Panama  are  served  and  the  best  collection  of  Eng- 
lish books  and  periodicals  is  found.  The  library  and  read- 
ing room  with  hardwood  floor  are  sometimes  cleared  for  danc- 
ing. Tlie  membership  of  two  hundred  includes  one  hundred 
twen1y-(ive  American  employees  and  seventy-five  residents 
of  Panama.  Organized  in  1906  for  college  men,  the  re- 
striction was  soon  abandoned. 

Two  blocks  from  the  Plaza  Bolivar,  keeping  to  the  sea  front, 
is  the  home  of  the  Union  Club,  a  large  white  building  from 
the  roof  of  which  is  a  line  view  of  Panama  Pay.  A  swinuiiing 
tank  refilled  at  every  tide  is  among  its  luxuries. 

On  the  water  front  near  this  Club,  at  the  foot  of  5th  street 
which  ]Kisses  in  front  of  the  Hotel  Central,  is  the  Marine 
BuUdhuj  where  passengers  go  aboard  small  boats  to  be  rowed 
out  to  siiips  engaged  in  the  coasting  trade.     Diagonally  across 


32  Til  10  SOCTU  A.MHRICAX  TOUR 

the  street  is  the  Prcsidrncia,  a  two-story  Imildiiifr  of  Spanish 
IMissioii  style  where  the  President  of  the  Kepublic  lives  and 
has  his  executive  offices. 

Two  blocks  along  the  front  from  the  Presidencia  there  is  a 
steep  incline  wliere  the  old  wall  passed  to  the  sea.  On  the 
beach  below,  a  market  was  established  in  1877,  now  in  a  large 
open  building,  where  not  only  vegetables,  fruits,  meat,  and 
fish  are  sold,  but  lace  and  other  commodities.  Close  by, 
boats  at  high  tide  run  up  on  the  beach,  saving  expense  of 
lighterage.  A  visit  to  the  market  early  in  the  morning  is 
well  worth  while,  as  the  assemblage  of  people  and  of  com- 
modities, many  of  strange  appearance,  make  this  the  most 
picturesque  place  in  Panama.  On  the  way  to  the  plaza 
one  may  pass  various  shops,  several  Chinese,  where  bargain- 
ing is  possible,  though  most  of  the  other  stores  have  one  price. 
Woolens,  silk,  lace,  and  some  other  things  are  cheaper  than 
in  the  United  States,  and  odd  bits  may  be  picked  up  by  a 
connoisseur.  Panama  hats  are  found  cheaper  than  in  the 
United  States,  but  may  be  purchased  to  better  advantage  in 
Ecuador  and  Peru.  A  hammock,  a  kodak,  films,  anything  for- 
gotten or  newly  thought  of  may  here  be  supplied.  But  if  films 
are  purchased,  be  sure  that  they  are  dated  nearly  a  year  ahead 
and  are  in  sealed  tin  boxes. 

The  churches  of  Panama  are  not  especially  fine,  but  a  few 
should  be  visited.  It  would  be  needless  to  say  that  due  re- 
spect to  the  House  of  God  should  be  shown  by  the  removal 
of  the  hat,  and  by  courteous  behavior,  but  for  the  astonish- 
ing ill  manners  and  rudeness  displayed  by  some  American 
boors  which  have  tended  to  make  us  unpopular  with  most 
Latin  Americans.  If  we  are  really  so  superior  as  some  of  us 
fancy,  it  would  be  well  to  exhibit  this  by  our  good  breeding. 
To  avoid  shocking  the  prejudices  of  others,  and  in  some  cases 
to  do  better  than  we  would  be  done  by  will  increase  the  pleas- 
ure of  a  trip  and  pave  the  way  for  business  advantage. 

The  Cathedral,  though  first  of  the  churches  designed,  was 
delayed  in  construction.  A  negro,  Luna  Victoria,  becoming 
Bishop  in  1751,  urged  its  completion,  himself  making  liberal 
contributions  so  that  it  was  finished  in  1760.  The  architec- 
ture is  of  ^Moorish  type  with  Spanish  and  American  modifica- 


PANAMA  CITY  33 

tioiis;  the  style  of  two  towers  is  used  in  many  Spanish 
American  churches.  The  cathedral  has  a  nave  and  four  aisles, 
an  apse  coiitaininfr  the  high  altar  of  wood  richly  ornamented, 
with  two  side  altars  and  the  episcojial  tliroiie.  An  ohl  paint- 
ing representing  the  miracle  of  the  Rosary  is  said  to  he  a 
Murillo. 

The  Church  of  San  Felipe  Xcri,  with  a  tablet  bearing  the 
words  Neri  Ao  1G88,  on  the  eoi-ner  of  Avenue  15  and  4th  sti-eet, 
is  said  to  be  the  oldest  and  perhaps  tlie  prettiest  of  tlie  l*anama 
churches.  It  is  less  gaudy  or  tawdry  than  some  of  the  others. 
An  adjoining  courtyard  Avith  a  garden  is  surrounded  by 
houses  of  Sisters  of  Charity.  At  the  corner  of  Avenue  A  and 
3rd  street  are  the  ruins  of  the  old  Dotninican  Church  with  a 
little  statue  still  standing  over  the  entrance.  The  woodwork 
was  burned  in  the  fire  of  1756  and  it  was  never  rebuilt.  One 
of  the  arches  was  shattered  in  the  earthquake  of  1882.  A 
brick  arch  near  the  entranee,  50  feet  wide  with  but  10  feet  be- 
tween the  heights  of  spring  and  arch,  is  unusually  flat.  There 
are  otliers,  in  the  San  Francisco  and  Jesuit  churches,  of  almost 
the  same  style. 

A  church  and  convent  school  erected  l)y  the  Jesuits  1749- 
1751  was  of  little  service,  as  the  Order  was  expelled  in  17G7. 
In  1781  the  wood  of  the  structure  was  burned,  but  the  ruins 
are  still  of  interest.  The  churches  of  La  ]\Ierced  and  Santa 
Ana  contain  little  to  invite  attention,  unless  it  l)e  tlie  efUgy 
of  the  gentleman  who  provided  the  funds  for  tlie  reeonstruc- 
tiou  in  1760  of  the  latter  church  and  who  was  thereafter  called 
the  Count  of  Santa  Ana. 

A  visit  to  Ancon  must  certainly  not  be  neglected.  On  its 
edge  is  the  Panama  Xalional  Inslihite  opened  in  1911,  con- 
sisting of  seven  buildings  around  a  patio,  including  a  gym- 
nasium. This  is  to  be  the  head  of  the  educational  system,  but 
at  present  is  occupied  with  primary  and  secondary  instruetion. 

Ancon  Hill  is  especially  noted  for  the  hospital,  the  buildings 
of  which  were  erected  by  the  French  soon  after  1881.  ^Vheu 
Col.  Gorgas  and  his  assistants  ai-rived  in  1904  they  were 
pleased  to  find  them  in  so  excellent  a  condition  with  French 
Sisters  of  St.  Vincent  still  in  charge.  Many  additions  and  im- 
provements were  made,  but  most  of  the  twenty-three  buildings 


•34  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

are  still  in  use.  "With  crowding,  2000  patients  may  be  ac- 
commodated, but  for  the  last  five  years  the  percentage  of 
licnltli  has  been  remarkably  good.  Thanks  to  the  skill  and 
cnicicney  of  Col.  AV.  C.  (Jorgas,  of  the  Regular  Army,  as  Health 
Officer,  and  to  his  corps  of  able  assistants,  yellow  fever  was 
practically  stamped  out  in  1906  and  malaria  diminished,  by 
the  destruction  of  the  mosquitoes,  screening,  etc.  Swamps 
were  filled  in,  and  the  cities  of  Panama  and  Colon  were  to 
some  extent  made  over.  Every  street  in  Panama  is  now  paved 
with  brick  or  macadam,  all  are  Avell  drained  and  provided  with 
sewers,  and  the  dirtiest  slum  of  the  city  is  cleaner  than  many 
middle  class  streets  in  most  American  cities,  not  to  mention 
New  York.  A  good  water  supply  is  provided,  and  all  these 
improvements  are  being  paid  for  by  Panama  from  the  water 
rates.  The  Administration  Building  on  one  of  the  knolls  at 
the  foot  of  the  hill  should  be  noted.  There  are  located  the 
offices  of  the  Sanitation  Department,  the  Civil  Administra- 
tion, and  the  Commission  Secretary.  The  Avemie  of  Royal 
Palms  leading  up  from  the  entrance  to  the  hospital  grounds 
will  be  admired  by  every  one,  and  those  of  botanical  tastes 
will  enjoy  spending  a  considerable  time  in  the  garden  which 
was  begun  by  the  Mother  Superior,  Sister  Marie  Rouleau, 
and  which  has  recently  been  catalogued  by  Col.  ]\Iason.  It 
contains  a  fine  collection  of  the  plant  life  of  the  Isthmus,  trees, 
fruits,  nuts,  shrubs,  and  flowers.  Persons  not  botanists  will 
find  pleasure  in  examining  many  plants  with  familiar  names, 
some  never  seen  before,  others  only  in  a  hot  house.  The  en- 
ergetic individual  will  enjoy  climbing  to  the  top  of  the  hill 
which,  6G-i  feet  above  the  sea,  affords  a  view  of  bay,  islands, 
city,  and  green  hills,  beautiful  enough  to  reward  even  the 
slothful :  but  near  sunrise  or  sunset  are  the  only  suitable  hours 
for  a  climb  in  this  temperature. 

Old  Panama.  An  excursion  to  Old  Panama  should  be  taken 
if  possible.  In  1911  a  road  was  constructed  by  the  Panama 
Government  from  the  highway  traversing  Las  Sabanas,  to  the 
old  city.  Electric  cars  may  be  available  for  the  excursion,  as 
well  as  carriage  and  automobile.  Also  one  may  go  by  launch 
or  horseback.  Paths  lead  to  the  chief  points  of  interest, — the 
old  bridges  across  the  estuarv  that  extended  on  two  sides 


PANAMA  CITY  35 

of  the  city,  the  tower  seen  from  afar  and  the  church  of  St. 
Anastasius,  the  wells,  and  the  walls  and  foundations  of  public 
buildings.  On  the  sea  side  is  a  hole  in  the  wall  where  still 
may  be  seen  the  old  paved  road  leadino;  into  the  water.  At 
high  tide  ships  could  come  up  to  the  city  gate. 


CHAPTER  V 

STEAMSHIP    LINES    ON   THE   WEST    COAST 

Side  Trip  to  Ecuador 

Panama  to  Calloo  and  Valparaiso — The  Pacific  Steam  Navigation 
Company ;  and  Compafiia  Sud-Amerieana  de  Vapores — each  with 
sailings  alternate  Mondays;  the  Comj^ania  Peruana  de  Vapores — 
sailings  every  Monday  to  Callao,  alternate  weeks  calling  at  Guaya- 
quil. 

Panama  to  Guayaquil — The  Pacific  Steam  Navigation  Company — 
two  steamers  weekly;  one  express  direct,  one  accommodation,  calling 
at  Colombia  and  Ecuador  ports;  the  Comiiaiiia  Peruana  de 
Vapores — the  steamer  fortnightly,  direct. 

Guayaquil  to  Callao — The  Pacific  Steam  Navigation  Company; 
the  Compailia  Sud-Americana  de  Vapores — alternate  sailings  weekly 
on  Wednesday;  the  Compafiia  Peruana  de  Vapores — fortnightly 
sailings  on  Friday. 

The  traveler  going  southward  from  Panama  to  Callao  or  be- 
yond has  at  present  a  choice  of  ships  on  three  different  lines : 
Peruvian,  English,  and  Chilian ;  the  second,  often  called  the 
P.  S.  N.,  now  a  branch  of  the  Royal  ]\Iail;  the  third,  that  of 
the  Compafiia  Sud-Americana  de  Vapores.  The  through 
ticket  purchased  in  New  York  to  a  South  American  port,  or  a 
roundtrip  ticket,  good  on  any  of  these  lines,  will  not  he  ac- 
cepted on  the  steamers  for  transportation.  Being  certificates 
merel.v,  they  must  be  exchanged  for  tickets  in  Panama  at  the 
c  Tfiee  of  that  steamship  line  by  which  one  has  decided  to  sail. 
The  cabin  may  there  be  selected  and  assigned. 

As  the  boats  vary  in  size  and  speed,  individually,  rather  than 
according  to  the  line,  travelers  are  apt  to  go  by  the  first 
steamer  sailing  after  they  are  ready  to  depart ;  yet  some  have  a 
preference  and  arrange  their  plans  accordingly.  Peruvians 
and  Chilians  are  likely  to  patronize  their  respective  lines; 
some  English  speaking  people  prefer  the  P.  S.  N.    Others  have 

36 


WEST  COAST  STEA.MSIIIPS  37 

a  favorite  sliip  or  capluiii.  Since  the  chief  officers  on  most 
of  the  ships  of  all  the  lines  are  British,  while  the  subordinates, 
stewards,  cabin  boys,  etc.,  are  Spanish  Americans,  the  dilfer- 
ence  is  not  striking,  although  the  P.  S.  X.  boats  seem  a  triHe 
more  English,  On  these  the  menu  is  in  English  and  Spanish 
both,  on  the  Chilian  Line  in  Spanish  only.  The  boats  of  the 
Peruvian  Line,  newer  and  larger  than  some  others,  are  pre- 
fcrri'd  by  some  Americans  who  have  tried  all  of  the  lines.  The 
various  steamers  are  lighted  by  electricity,  the  Peruvian  have 
also  electric  fans,  for  the  use  of  which  a  charge  of  $1.00  is  made 
for  the  trip.  Deck  chairs  cost  $1.25.  >\Iost  of  the  ships  on  all 
lines  have  on  the  ujiper  deck  a  handsome  salon  with  piano,  card 
tables,  sofas,  perhaps  a  fairly  stocked  book-case,  a  spacious 
well-furnished  dining-room,  and  a  large  comfortable  smok- 
ing room,  besides  considerable  space  for  deck  golf  and  other 
sports.  The  Peruvian  steamers  have  on  this  deck  four  cabins 
at  a  price  ten  per  cent  higher  than  those  ])elow.  The  cal)ins 
in  general  are  on  the  second  deck,  all  opening  on  an  outside 
passage  with  door  and  window,  each  furnished  with  blinds. 
On  my  first  voyage  I  provided  myself  with  mosquito  netting, 
as  advised,  especially  for  the  trip  to  Guayaquil;  but  never  had 
occasion  to  use  it.  In  the  rainy  season,  from  December  to 
June,  one  would  be  indispensable  for  the  tourist  visiting 
Ecuador,  but  is  superfluous  at  any  time  to  one  going  directly 
to  Peru.  j\leal  hours  vaiy  slightly  on  the  different  steamers, 
but  all  serve  coffee  with  toast  or  rolls  in  cabin  or  dining-room 
fi'oni  6.30  to  8.30  a.  m.  Formerly  condensed  milk  was  the 
accompaniment.  Persons  who  disliked  tliis  were  happier 
if  they  pi-ovided  themselves  in  New  York  with  a  few  five 
cent  cans  of  the  evaporated.  On  the  East  Coast  the*  ships 
appear  to  have  regular  milk,  and  it  may  now  be  provided 
on  the  West.  The  hours  of  the  meals  are  at  the  pleasure 
of  the  captains;  on  the  English  boats  generally  break- 
fast is  at  nine  or  half  past,  on  the  others  it  may  be  at  ten 
or  eleven:  luncheon  is  served  at  1,  1.30,  or  2  p.  m.,  diiuier 
at  6,  6.30,  or  7.  Some  ships  have  afternoon  tea  at  four, 
otiiers  have  tea  at  8.30  or  !)  p.  m.  lireakfast,  in  Spanish, 
ahinicrzo,  begins  with  cazuela,  a  kind  of  .soup,  which  is  fol- 
lowed by  fish,  entrees,  eggs,  beefsteak,  etc.:  at  luncheon  there 
are  cold  disiies  only,  meats  and  salad,  except  for  hot  potntoes, 

45<>o?l 


38  'J' I  IK  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

tea,  and  coffee.  The  dinner  resembles  breakfast,  but  has  a  dif- 
ferent kind  of  soup,  while  roasts  and  sweets  are  served  at  this 
meal  only.  As  many  of  the  ships  are  unprovided  with  cold 
storage,  the  meat,  eaten  the  day  after  it  is  killed,  is  often 
tough.  For  this  reason  tlie  boiled  meats  and  the  South  Amer- 
ican dishes  generally  are  apt  to  be  better  than  the  roasts ;  that 
is,  if  you  like  them.  It  is  well  to  have  a  try,  for  many  are 
really  good.  Of  fruit,  oranges  and  bananas  are  always  in 
evidence,  sometimes  melons,  and  paltas  (alligator  pears  or 
aguaeate),  which  as  salad  are  verj'  fine. 

Balboa,  the  place  of  embarkation,  formerly  called  La  Boca, 
is  ten  or  fifteen  minutes  by  rail  from  the  Panama  station.  Its 
present  name,  in  honor  of  the  discoverer  of  the  Pacific,  dates 
from  April  30,  1909,  when,  adopting  the  suggestion  of  Hon. 
Alfonzo  Pezet,  then  Peruvian  IMinister  to  Panama,  Colonel 
Goethals  issued  a  circular  with  the  mandate  that  La  Boca 
should  in  future  be  known  as  Balboa. 

Before  embarking  for  the  south,  it  is  important  to  look  up 
one's  baggage  and  see  that  it  is  put  on  board  the  ship  by 
which  one  is  about  to' sail.  Baggage  Avhich  is  checked  through 
to  Callao  or  elsewhere  will  probably  be  brought  over  to  this 
port  and  remain  in  the  baggage  room  until  it  is  pointed  out  by 
the  owner  and  the  ship  is  designated  on  which  he  will  sail. 
This  is  an  absolute  necessity.  Otherwise  it  might  be  sent 
on  an  earlier  or  a  different  steamer,  when,  with  no  one  to  look 
after  it  and  pay  for  its  transport  to  land,  it  might  Gail  up  and 
down  the  coast  a  year  or  two,  or  until  the  ship  people  de- 
cided to  dump  it  in  the  ocean.  Hence,  always,  look  after 
your  baggage,  throughout  the  entire  trip.  Failing  in  care, 
you  are  likely  never  to  see  it  more.  Ample  time  should  be 
allowed  for  the  purpose,  and  no  harm  will  be  done  if,  at  the 
Panama  station,  you  investigate  to  see  if  by  chance  your  bag- 
gage has  been  left  there  instead  of  at  the  Balboa  dock. 

A  matter  by  no  means  to  be  overlooked  before  embarka- 
tion is  the  procuring  of  Peruvian  money,  silver  and  gold  for 
use  on  the  steamer  and  in  landing.  English  sovereigns  and 
half  sovereigns,  equal  to  10  and  5  soles,  will  do  as  well  as  Pe- 
ruvian coins  of  the  same  value;  but  one  should  have  silver 
coins  as  well,  a  sol  equaling  48i/^.  cents.  Exchange  will  be 
made  at  the  banks  or  by  money  changers  in  Panama. 


SIDE  TKIP  TO  ECFADOR  39 

Tourists  will  generally  einl)ark  at  Balboa  for  Peru ;  but 
Colombia  and  Ecuador  may  be  included  in  the  tour  if  de- 
sired. Two  steamers  sail  for  Guayaquil,  one  express,  mak- 
ing no  calls  en  route,  tlie  otbcr,  cahhro,  or  as  we  slicnild 
term  it,  if  a  train,  accommodation,  calling  at  varicms  ports 
in  Colombia  and  Ecuador.  From  Buenaventura  in  Colombia 
the  capital,  Bouota,  may  be  visited,  a  city  charmingly  situated, 
with  a  delightful  climate,  containing  many  cultivated  people 
and  luxurious  homes,  yet  by  any  route  a  tedious  journey  from 
the  sea.  From  Call  which  the  railroad  nearly  reaches,  a 
town  five  hours  by  rail  from  Buenaventura,  it  is  eight  or  ten 
days  on  mule  or  horseliack.  Few  at  present  will  undertake 
the  trip  except  for  business  or  scientific  research. 

Quito,  the  capital  of  Ecuador,  far  more  accessible,  and 
oftener  visited,  will  yet  be  omitted  by  the  majority ;  not  be- 
cause there  is  nothing  to  see,  but  because  one  with  limited 
time  for  the  tour  will  content  himself  with  scenes  of  more  or 
less  similar  character  on  the  direct  line  of  the  journey.  jNIore- 
over  the  reputation  of  the  port  of  Guayaquil  as  a  hot  bed 
of  yellow  fever,  to  say  nothing  of  bubonica,  leprosy,  and  small- 
I)ox  is  such  that  most  persons  prefer  to  give  it  a  wide  berth. 
Formerly  there  W'as  mutual  recrimination  between  Guayaquil 
and  Panama,  each  asserting  that  the  yellow  fever  was  im- 
ported from  the  other  city ;  but  now  the  ease  is  clear.  Panama 
Jias  long  had  a  clean  bill  of  health,  while  Guayaquil  (1912)  was 
as  bad  as  ever,  if  not  worse.  Some  years  ago  our  American 
Dr.  Lloyd  attempted  to  clean  up  the  place,  but  on  aeeount 
of  insufficient  funds  and  authority  succeeded  in  acc()nq)lishing 
little  beyond  getting  the  yellow  fever  himself.  As  a  good 
])art  of  the  city  lies  low  by  the  river's  edge,  the  i)roblem  seems 
diihcult ;  yet  with  sufficient  money  its  sanitation  may  be  ac- 
complished. If  the  present  plans  of  the  Ecuadorian  Govern- 
ment are  carried  out,  Guayaquil  may  some  time  be  again  on 
the  same  plane  of  healtli  as  Panama.  Should  one  meanwhile 
be  disposed  to  venture  probably  no  harm  would  befall.  Dr. 
Paker,  then  American  Consul  at  (iuayaquil,  stated  (Deeem- 
ber,  1912)  that  the  city  may  safely  be  visited  from  June  1  to 
October  1,  but  not  at  other  times. 

Those  jicrsons  then  who  desire  to  visit  (^>uito,  the  e(nial(»rial 
city,  to  see  far  famed  Chimbora/.o,  and  ("otopaxi,  the  loftiest 


4Q  THE  SOUTH  A.MKUICAN  TOUR 

of  active  volcanoes,  Avill  risk  a  short  stay  in  Guayaquil,  and 
will  thus  proceed. 

On  the  third  morning,  after  leaving  Panama,  on  express 
steamer  for  Guayaquil,  one  is  likely  to  find  his  ship  anchored 
at  the  quarantine  station,  Puna,  on  an  island  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Guayas  River.  It  is  a  pleasant  sail  north,  up  this  broad 
stream,  the  most  important  in  South  America  flowing  into  the 
Pacific  Ocean.  The  low  green  shores  are  heavily  fringed  with 
trees  or  bushes.  Ridges  and  peaks  of  blue  will  presently  ap- 
pear, possibly  the  snow-crowned  Chimborazo,  but  this  on  rare 
occasions  on  account  of  incessant  clouds. 

Guayaquil,  a  few  hours  from  Puna,  appears  from  the  steam- 
er's deck  a  pretty  place,  stretching  several  miles  along  the 
river  front,  a  city  of  75,000  inhabitants.  The  buildings  made 
of  wood,  plastered  over  to  resemble  marble,  look  quite  im- 
posing. There  is  a  cathedral  and  other  churches,  and  good 
public  buildings;  a  Club,  the  Union,  called  by  one  globe-trot- 
ter the  second  best  he  had  seen  in  the  tropics  another  con- 
siders ordinary.  Worth  visiting  are  the  pretty  plazas  with 
rare  and  luxuriant  vegetation,  the  market,  and  a  great  hos- 
pital on  the  hill  above  the  town,  fitted  with  modern  appliances, 
and  comparing  favorablj^,  one  says,  with  the  Ancon  Hospital 
at  Panama. 

The  swift  current  of  the  river  is  noticeable,  the  strong  tide 
running  rapidl}^  six  hours  each,  up  and  down.  Small  boats, 
taking  advantage  of  this,  may  thus  go  with  slight  effort  in 
either  direction,  but  with  hard  labor  if  the  tide  is  adverse. 
INIuch  used  are  the  native  halsas,  made  of  tree  trunks,  five, 
seven,  or  nine  lashtd  together,  many  with  small  houses  upon 
them.  With  balsas  they  even  venture  upon  the  ocean  as 
far  as  Paita.  Panama  hats  are  here  purchasable;  these  with 
cocoa  and  ivory  nuts  are  among  the  chief  exports  of  the 
country. 

To  make  the  journey  to  Quito  one  must  cross  from  Quaya- 
quil  by  boat  to  Duran,  the  railway  terminal  on  the  other  side 
of  the  river,  whence  a  railroad  leads  297  miles  to  the  capital 
city.  The  fare  from  Guayaquil  is  $17.40  each  way.  Depart- 
ing from  Duran  Monday,  Wednesday,  and  Friday  at  6.30  a.  m., 
the  train  arrives  at  6.30  p.  m.  at  Riobamaba,  where  the  night 
is  spent  at  the  Grand  Central  Hotel,  price  one  or  two  dollars. 


SIDE  TRIP  TO  ECUADOR  41 

Leaving  Riobain])a  at  6.40  a.  m.  one  arrives  at  Quito  at  four. 
Each  day  a  halt  is  made  for  the  noon  meal  at  a  way  station. 
The  train,  at  first  passing  among  great  sugar  estates,  then 
ascending  gradually  tlu-ough  a  luxuriant  troiiical  region,  pres- 
ently reaches  the  higher  temperate  zone  Mliere  by  contrast 
the  night  will  seem  decidedly  chill.  At  4000  or  5000  feet  the 
way  seems  barred  by  lofty  hills,  but  the  American  construct- 
ing engineer  cut  in  the  face  of  the  granite  a  zigzag  path  with 
switchbacks  of  four  levels  making  a  rise  to  90(J0  feet.  After 
some  distance  through  volcanic  country,  a  similar  cul-de-sac 
is  surmounted  by  a  similar  switchback  with  a  seven  per  cent 
grade  to  the  Pass  of  Palmyra,  12,000  feet.  "Wastes  of  sand 
and  shirting  grass,  resembling  a  sea-coast,  are  an  unexpected 
variety  in  the  scenery. 

Descending  gradually  to  Cajabamba,  11,000  feet,  one  passes, 
the  first  afternoon,  splendid  Chimhorazo,  still  supposed  by 
many  to  be  the  highest  mountain  in  America,  a  great  mistake, 
as  its  altitude  is  only  20,498  feet,  more  than  that  of  ^U.  ^Ic- 
Kinley,  but  over  2000  feet  less  than  that  of  Aconcagua,  on  the 
border  of  Chile  and  Argentina,  the  highest  measured  mountain 
on  the  AVestern  Hemisphere.  ^Moreover,  this  tallest  of  the 
Ecuadorian  Andes  is  surpassed  by  fifty  or  more  peaks  farther 
south;  among  tlu'se,  lluascaran  and  Coropuna  in  Peru,  111am- 
pu,  Illimani,  and  Sajama  in  Bolivia.  The  first  ascent  of  Chim- 
horazo, made  in  1880  by  Edward  AVhymper  with  two  Swiss 
guides,  was  at  the  time  considered  a  wonderful  feat.  The 
same  year  AVhymper  ascended  the  active  volcano,  Cotopaxi, 
19,613  feet,  farther  east  and  nearer  to  Quito.  Near  Caja- 
bamba are  a  few  remains  of  ancient  Inca  edifices. 

Beyond  Kiobam])a,  a  little  fai'ther  on,  the  road  the  second 
day  goes  lower  to  Ambato,  8000  feet,  a  town  in  a  deep  basin 
with  a  delightful  climate,  headquarters  for  trade  with  the 
Oriente.  A  broad  sterile  plain  is  crossed  near  the  foot  of  Co- 
topaxi, a  beautiful  truncated  cone,  smoking  continuously. 
Above  the  snow  "clad  slopes,  a  gray  and  white  cloud  is  formed 
in  the  shape  of  an  enormous  branching  tree,  which  at  length 
breaks  off  and  floats  away.  Near  the  snow  line  of  the  volcano 
is  a  huge  mass  of  rock  called  the  Inca's  heatl.  said  to  have 
been  the  oi-iginal  summit  of  the  mountain,  torn  olf  and  hurled 
below  on  the  day  of  the  execution  of  the   Inca,  Atahualli)a. 


42  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

Beyond  tlio  Pass  Chasqni  is  llu;  chMnning  srccn  valley  ]\Iao;h- 
aclii.  In  a  bowl  shaped  depression  entered  by  three  gateways, 
through  one  of  which  the  railroad  passes,  crossing  a  bridge 
over  the  INIachangara  River,  is  found  the  white,  but  red-roofed 
city,  the  capital  famed  as  lying  under  the  equator;  it  is  within 
a  quarter  of  a  degree. 

Quito.  ]>eautifully  situated  among  the  mountains  at  an  alti- 
tude of  9600  feet,  Quito  enjoys  a  climate  as  delightful  as  the 
prospect.  In  former  days  travelers  have  united  their  admira- 
tion for  the  scenery  with  groans  over  the  accommodations  pro- 
vided. It  is  said  that  good  hotels  now  exist,  the  Royal  Palace, 
the  Hotel  de  Paris,  Hotel  Americano,  and  Casa  Azul.  The 
city  has  a  population  of  75,000,  including  many  charming  and 
cultivated  Spanish  Americans,  and  more  Indians, 

On  the  principal  plaza  are  handsome  government  and 
municipal  buildings,  the  cathedral,  and  the  bishop's  palace. 
Among  many  beautiful  churches  and  convents  is  the  Jesuits' 
church,  the  interior  superb  in  scarlet  and  genuine  gold.  The 
temperature  of  Quito  averaging  60°,  ranging  from  50°  to 
70°  only,  is  comfortable  enough  to  make  exercise  desirable, 
and  variety  is  easily  attained.  A  half  day's  journey  will 
bring  one  to  a  deep  sultry  valley  with  tropical  vegetation ; 
hence  every  kind  of  fruit  and  vegetable  is  in  the  market. 
Or  four  hours  will  take  one  to  a  region  of  eternal  frost.  And 
thither  every  one  should  go,  for  from  the  top  of  iMt.  Pichin- 
cha,  16,000  feet,  at  the  foot  of  which  is  Quito,  may  be  had 
a  splendid  view  of  twenty  snow-clad  peaks,  from  15,000  to 
20,000  feet  in  height. 


/ 


CHAPTER  Vr 
ON  THE  AVAY  TO  CALLiVO 

On  hoard  ship  at  the  Balhoa  docks,  recently  enlarfred  hy 
the  Uuited  States  Government,  tlie  surroundings  at  high  tide 
are  beautiful.  On  three  sides  are  green  wooded  hills,  some 
of  which  miglit  almost  be  dignified  as  mountains.  The  wide 
stream  coming  down  at  the  northwest  is  the  Pacific  entrance 
to  the  Canal.  Below  are  pretty  islands  to  one  of  which,  Naos, 
the  breakwater,  three  and  a  quarter  miles  long,  now  extends. 
At  low  tide,  when  the  water  has  fallen  18  feet,  as  it  does  twice 
in  the  twenty-four  hours,  an  ugly  expanse  of  flats  is  visible  on 
each  side  of  the  channel.  Should  one  spend  the  night  here, 
he  may  be  so  fortunate  as  to  see  the  sun  or  moon  rise,  not  set, 
from  the  Pacific  Ocean;  so  far  west  is  Panama  City  of  the 
western  shore  of  South  America,  at  least  of  Colombia,  for  the 
Isthmus  runs  east  and  west  instead  of  north  and  south. 

As  the  steamer  leaves  the  dock,  one  should  linger  in  the 
stern  of  the  vessel  to  look  back  at  the  charming  picture. 
Thus  standing  and  gazing  rearwards,  the  city  of  Panama  will 
soon  appear  on  the  right,  finely  situated  on  a  promontory  with 
water  oil  three  sides,  thus  with  excellent  opportunities  for 
drainage,  and  now  as  healthy  a  city  as  may  be  found  in  the 
Torrid  Zone,  surpassing  in  this  particular  many  of  those  in 
temjierate  climes. 

The  Peaceful  Ocean  will  gently  "  Rock  the  Cradle  of  the 
Deep"  and  the  voyage  will  be  a  pleasure.  Formerly  ten  days 
to  Callao,  it  is  now  six  or  seven.  The  weather  is  warm,  with 
sunnner  clothes  in  order,  probably  until  Paita  is  reached; 
so  warm  that  enthusiasts  only  will  care  for  the  vigorous 
exercise  of  deck  golf,  yet  not  uncomfortably  hot.  The  cross- 
ing of  the  equator  is  made  without  ceremony:  even  with 
careful  inquiry  it  is  difficult  to  ascertain  just  when  the  eipii- 
noctial  line  is  passed.     The  Pole  star  has  vanished,  yet  in 

43 


44  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

our  summer  months  a  part  of  the  constellation  of  the  Dipper, 
still  above  the  horizon,  may  be  recognized  far  down  the  coast. 
With  no  sight  of  land  for  three  days,  there  will  be  time 
on  this  tranquil  sea  to  brush  up  our  Spanish,  or  if  we  have 
none  to  brush,  at  least  to  pick  up  a  few  words  and  phrases. 
Or  there  is  opportunity  for  a  brief  review  of  South  Amer- 
ican history.  Prescott  perchance  is  in  the  library,  or  other 
books,  historical  or  descriptive,  of  the  various  countries  to 
be  visited.  That  we  see  only  what  we  are  prepared  to  see 
is  an  old  saying,  as  true  of  South  America  as  of  Europe. 
A  slight  knowledge  of  South  American  history  and  of  present 
conditions  will  illumine  the  journey,  increasing  both  pleasure 
and  profit.  A  course  of  reading  at  home  and  a  little  study  of 
Spanish  will  bring  infinite  reward.  For  those  who  have  neg- 
lected this,  brief  allusions  to  facts  of  history,  geography,  etc., 
will  be  scattered  here  and  there. 

A  Bit  OF  History 

Every  one  has  heard  of  the  Ineas  and  of  the  conquest  of  Peru 
by  PizaiTo,  but  a  few  particulars  of  the  remarkable  subjugation  of 
a  great  people  will  here  be  recalled.  As  early  as  1524  Francisco 
Pizarro,  incited  by  rumors  at  Panama  of  a  country  at  the  south 
marvellously  rich  in  gold,  for  the  purpose  of  exploration  only, 
made  his  first  expedition  to  Peru.  Landing  at  Tumbes  on  the 
south  shore  of  the  Gulf  of  Guayaquil,  he  found  an  opulent  city, 
whence  he  proceeded  along  the  coast  as  far  as  Trujillo.  Satisfied  by 
this  reconnoissance  as  to  the  great  Avealtli  of  the  countiy,  he  was 
obliged  to  return  to  Spain  to  procure  royal  wai'rant  for  the  in- 
vasion. This  gained  he  set  out  from  Panama  iu  Januaiy,  1531, 
upon  his  extraordinary  career  of  conquest.  Partners  m  his  ad- 
venture were  Diego  de  Almagro  and  a  priest,  Hernando  de  Luque. 

Again  landing  at  Tumbes  he  advanced  overland  southward  and 
in  a  fertile  valley  founded  the  present  city  of  Piura.  Some  months 
were  here  passed,  a  vain  delay  for  remforcements;  Pizarro  mean- 
while learning  of  the  quarrel  between  the  two  Inea  princes,  the 
brothers  Atahuallpa  and  Huascar,  and  that  the  former,  victorious, 
was  now  Avith  a  large  retinue,  ten  daj's'  journey  from  Piura,  at  the 
town  of  Cajamarea  whither  he  had  gone  to  take  the  baths. 

To  attempt  the  conquest  of  a  great  empire  with  an  army  of  less 
than  200  men  seems  preposterous  indeed,  but  the  bold,  one  would 
say  insane,  Pizarro,  had  he  not  succeeded,  at  length  set  out  with 
180    men,    67   of   whom   were    cavalry.     However,   these   last   were 


ON  THE  WAY  TO  CALLAO  45 

equivalent  to  a  mighty  host ;  ior  horses,  never  before  seen  in  this 
country,  struck  terror  to  the  stoutest  hearts.  It  was  a  hard  inarch 
across  the  desert,  then  up  over  the  great  coast  range  of  the  Andes 
down  to  the  longitudinal  valley  in  which  Cajauiarca  is  situated. 
On  the  way  they  were  met  by  messengers  bearing  royal  gifts,  with 
an  invitation  to  visit  the  powerful  ruler  of  this  inunense  empire. 
Through  narrow  defiles  where  a  larg:e  force  might  easily  have  been 
annihilated,  the  little  army  was  permitted  to  march  in  safety. 
Upwards  in  bitter  cold  and  rarefied  air  they  toiled  to  a  height  of 
12,000  feet  or  more  until  they  looked  down  upon  a  beautiful  valley, 
a  prosperous  city,  and  the  camp  of  a  great  army. 

With  bold  faces  if  quaking  hearts  they  descended,  November  15, 
1532,  to  the  city  which  they  found  deserted:  that  better  acconuuoda- 
tions,  it  was  said,  might  be  furnished  to  the  distinguished  guests. 
The  next  day,  accepting  the  invitation  of  Pizarro  that  he  should 
dine  with  him,  Atahuallpa  with  a  large  retinue,  unarmed,  came  in 
royal  state  to  the  Plaza.  In  place  of  the  courteous  greeting  from 
PizaiTo  which  was  here  due,  a  priest.  Father  Valverde,  came  for- 
ward. Having  expounded  the  chief  doctrines  of  the  Christian  re- 
ligion he  thereupon  demanded  the  Inca's  allegiance  to  the  Pope  and 
to  the  Emperor  Charles  V.  Upon  Atahuallpa's  indignant  rejection 
of  this  piece  of  bold  and  insolent  presumption,  Valverde  called  on 
Pizarro  to  make  an  assault.  The  signal  was  given,  guns  boomed,  the 
cavalry  charged  upon  the  defenseless  throng.  Instead  of  the  hos- 
pitality that  had  been  proffered  there  was  a  scene  of  terrible 
slaughter.  The  Inca  was  seized  and  imprisoned,  after  which  a  ran- 
som was  arranged.  The  collection  for  this  purpose  of  more  than 
$15,000,000  worth  of  gold  dishes,  plate,  and  other  objects  was  fol- 
lowed by  a  second  act  of  perfidy.  Accused  of  various  crimes,  Ata- 
huallpa, instead  of  being  released,  was  condemned  to  be  burned  at 
the  stake;  or  if  he  would  consent  to  embrace  Christianity  to  have 
the  easier  death  of  strangulation.  This  he  chose.  Thus  the  courtly 
monarch  of  this  highly  civilized  empire,  one  of  the  first  on  that  con- 
tinent to  be  baptized  (revolting  mockery)  into  the  Christian  faith, 
was  ignominionsly  put  to  death  after  the  most  shameless  betrayal  of 
the  rites  of  hospitality,  the  most  brutal  treacheiy,  to  be  found  on 
the  pages  of  histoiy. 

Thus  was  accomplished  the  conquest  of  Peru.  The  Inca  exe- 
cuted, his  humble  subjects  made  but  little  and  sj^oradic  resistance. 
Cuzco,  the  capital  city,  was  visited  and  strij)i)ed  of  many  of  its 
treasures.  For  the  conciliation  of  the  i)opuhu'e,  ^fanco,  a  younger 
brother  of  Atahuallpa,  was  crowned;  but  the  real  ])t)wer  was  ])la»'ed 
in  the  hands  of  one  of  Pizarro's  brothers. 

Francisco  then  descended  to  the  coast  and    on  .laniiary  (>,   1535, 


46  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

founded  on  the  banks  of  the  Rimac  a  capital  which  he  named  City 
of  the  Kings  in  honor  of  the  Epiphany,  although  Lima,  a  corruption 
of  Rimac,  is  the  title  by  which  it  has  been  called.  Such  a  beginning 
was  naturally  followed  by  a  period  of  dissensions  and  murders, 
which  lasted  twenty  years.  For  nearly  three  centunes  a  Spanish 
Viceroy  ruled  over  the  country,  until  in  1824,  at  Ayacucho  on  the 
highlands  of  Peru,  the  last  battle  of  independence  was  fought,  the 
whole  of  South  America  was  liberated  from  the  domination  of  Spain, 
and  the  realms  of  the  Inca  became  free  to  develop  a  new  civilization. 

Panama  to  Salaverry.  For  three  days  after  leaving 
Panama  the  ship  is  out  of  sight  of  land,  which  is  again  ap- 
proached near  the  northern  extremity  of  Peru.  This  coast 
is  nnlike  that  of  any  other  country  in  the  world,  to  the  unini- 
tiated presenting  a  series  of  surprises.  The  first  is  the  climate, 
which  in  the  Torrid  Zone  one  naturally  expects  to  be  hot,  at 
least  at  sea  level.  On  the  East  Coast  of  South  America  this 
is  the  case,  but  not  on  the  West  after  reaching  Peru.  Pan- 
ama, Colombia,  and  Ecuador  have  ordinary  tropical  weather, 
continuous  heat  with  plenty  of  rain  and  luxuriant  vegetation. 
Peru  is  in  striking  contrast.  From  Paita,  5°  south  of  the 
equator,  throughout  the  journey  of  1200  miles  along  the  coast, 
all  within  the  tropics,  the  weather  is  so  cool  at  least  half  of 
the  year  that  exercise  is  a  pleasure,  while  wraps  and  steamer 
rugs  are  frequently  desirable.  Of  this  moderate  temperature 
the  chief  cause  is  the  Antarctic  or  Humboldt  current,  which 
flows  along  the  coast  from  the  South  Polar  regions  until,  at 
Point  Parifia,  the  western  extremity  of  South  America,  it 
meets  a  hot  stream  and  both  turn  westward  across  the  Pacific. 
The  proximity  to  the  sea  of  the  lofty  range  of  the  Andes  also 
contributes  to  the  coolness. 

Another  surprising  phenomenon  is  the  barren  shore.  The 
entire  coast  for  2000  miles,  from  Tumbes,  to  Cociuimbo  in 
Chile,  is  a  genuine  desert,  save  where,  at  considerable  inter- 
vals, the  fifty-eight  streams  in  Peru,  coming  down  from  the 
mountains,  afford  opportunity  for  irrigation.  The  lack  of 
verdure  in  Peru  is  not  occasioned  by  the  character  of  the  soil ; 
it  arises  simply  from  the  absence  of  rain. 

Paita.  The  fourth  morning  after  leaving  Panama  the  ship 
is  likely  to  be  at  anchor  in  the  harbor  of  Paita,  having  passed 
in  the  night  the  more  northern  Peruvian  shore.     Otherwise 


ox  THE  WAY  TO  CALLAO  47 

one  might  from  a  distance  perceive  near  Point  Parina  the 
pipes  and  derricks  of  many  oil  wells.  For  the  petroleum  in- 
dustry is  important  in  Peru.  In  this  Department,  Piura,  the 
oil  regions  cover  an  area  as  large  as  Ilolhmd.  It  is  said  that 
the  petroleum  is  superior  to  that  of  the  United  States,  having 
little  parafifine  and  no  odor;  that  the  kerosene  gives  a  better 
light,  and  that  tlie  crude  oil  may  be  employed  as  fuel  after 
merely  standing  a  few  days  in  the  open  air.  For  the  last  ten 
years  the  oil  has  been  tlius  used  in  the  locomotives  of  the 
Oroya  Railway;  it  is  now  similarly  employed  on  the  Peruvian 
steamers.  There  is  a  great  field  for  the  development  of  the 
industry  in  this  and  other  districts  of  the  country. 

After  several  days  on  board  ship  most  of  the  passengers 
improve  the  opportunity  of  going  ashore.  The. regular  fare 
as  at  other  ports  is  forty  ccnlavos  (twent}'  cents)  each  way 
for  each  person.  Paita  is  a  curious  place,  a  small  village,  yet 
the  third  port  in  Peru  in  the  amount  of  exports  and  imports, 
serving  a  considerable  district  including  the  city  of  Piura, 
with  which  it  is  connected  by  a  railroad  of  standard  gauge. 
The  walls  of  the  houses  are  of  bamboo,  set  perpendicularly, 
some  overspread  with  plaster  often  partly  peeled  off,  others 
destitute  of  covering.  Climbing  the  hills  back  of  the  town 
you  will  perceive  a  genuine  desert,  in  the  distance  fi-inged 
by  low  mountains.  "Paita,"  said  the  Captain  on  my  lirst 
voyage  in  1903,  "is  the  dryest  place  on  earth."  From  its 
appearance  I  "was  not  inclined  to  dispute  the  fact,  but  having 
heard  that  it  rains  there  once  in  seven  years  and  in  Icpiicjue 
not  at  all  I  in(iuired  how  this  might  be.  "That  is  easy," 
replied  the  Captain.  "  In  Iquique  there  are  heavy  dews,  here 
nothing,  and  now  it  has  skipped  one  shower  and  it  is  almost 
fourteen  years  since  it  has  rain<'d."  This  was  no  idle  jt'st. 
The  drought  continued  until  Febi-uai-y,  lillO,  wiien  there  was 
a  heavy  shower,  the  first  in  nineteen  years.  There  are  no 
wells,  hence  all  water  is  brought  by  rail  and  sparingly  used ; 
therefore  there  is  no  green.  The  town  of  Piura,  on  the  con- 
trary, 60  miles  distant,  is  in  an  ii-rigatt'd  valley  whci-e  tlie 
finest  cotton  is  a  staple  i)roduction  and  where  new  irrigation 
canals  are  increasing  the  possibilities  for  dgrieulture.  A  few 
miles  farther  is  CaNtcaos,  where  lialf  of  the  20.000  inhabitants 
are  engaged  in  making  the  200,000  Pananut  hats  here  annually 


48  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

produced.  While  Ecuador  is  the  chief  seat  of  the  industry, 
hats  may  be  purchased  at  Paita  to  better  advantage  than  at 
Guayaquil.  The  natives  Avho  come  on  board  ship  bring 
various  articles  for  sale,  paroquets,  mocking-birds,  fruit,  pot- 
tery, ancient  and  modern,  as  well  as  the  Panama  hats.  These 
of  good  quality  may  be  purchased  at  from  $2.00  to  $12  or 
$15  gold,  the  latter  of  the  Montecristi  quality,  all  at  about 
one-fourth  of  the  price  commonly  asked  for  a  similar  article 
in  New  York.  The  best  are  rarely  found  in  the  United  States 
at  any  price. 

Some  day  Paita  wdtli  its  excellent  harbor  will  become  a 
port  of  great  importance.  A  railroad  400  miles  long  is  planned 
and  has  been  surveyed  to  Melendez  on  the  ^Maranon,  the  larger 
of  the  two  rivers  (the  other,  the  Ucayali)  uniting  to  form  the 
Amazon.  Crossing  the  Andes  in  one  of  its  lowest  sections, 
where  a  short  tunnel  at  5000  feet  altitude  will  serve  instead 
of  the  long  ones,  above  10,000  and  15,000  feet,  through  the 
mountains  farther  south,  this  road  will  bring  the  rubber  coun- 
try in  the  neighborhood  of  Iquitos,  the  chief  port  on  the  upper 
Amazon,  within  two  weeks  of  New  York,  instead  of  the  four 
or  five  weeks  by  way  of  Para.  On  this  route,  too,  are  said  to 
be  millions  of  tons  of  iron,  as  well  as  coal  and  other  minerals. 

On  leaving  Paita,  if  not  before,  the  tourist  will  be  likely 
to  feel  the  need  of  heavier  underwear.  The  air  in  winter  is 
damp  and  chilly.  The  temperature  in  my  cabin  was  60°. 
At  this  season  clouds  generally  conceal  the  sun,  making  a 
gloomy  sea,  and  the  little  patches  of  blue  sky  are  small. 

Eten,  the  next  port,  161  miles  farther  south,  the  ship  is 
likely  to  reach  the  next  morning.  An  iron  pier  2000  feet 
long  is  noticeable,  though  a  good  distance  away.  Callao  is  the 
only  seaport  below  Panama  having  docks  which  may  bo 
approached  by  large  ships.  The  slope  of  the  beaches  is  so 
gradual  that  even  for  the  use  of  the  lighters  long  piers  are 
necessary.  Eten  has  an  especially  poor  anchorage,  an  open 
roadstead  where  there  is  often  a  moderate  swell,  so  that  the 
passing  traveler  seldom  goes  ashore.  Frequently  passengers 
must  be  taken  on  board  by  means  of  a  sort  of  barrel  or  hogs- 
head destitute  of  one  side.  One  person  sits,  another  stands 
on  the  edge.  Thus  they  are  raised  with  windlass,  chain,  and 
pulley,  and  gently  deposited  on  deck. 


ON  THE  WAY  TO  CALLAO  49 

Pacasmayo,  .'34  miles  farther,  is  usually  visited  the  same 
day.  Tliis  is  quite  a  town  with  a  railroad  ruiiuiug  85  miles 
up  country,  some  day  to  l)e  ])rolonged  to  Cajamarca,  now 
rather  difficult  of  access. 

The  coast  presents  for  the  most  part  a  study  in  browns, 
diversified  by  occasional  patches  of  green,  the  size  of  which 
varies  with  that  of  the  stream  coming  down  from  the  moun- 
tains and  the  extent  of  irrigation  in  the  valley.  The  great 
mountain  range  is  surprisingly  near  the  sea.  There  are 
indeed  foothills,  and  in  the  northern  and  southern  sections  of 
Peru,  back  of  the  liigli  lilull's  which  generally  line  the  coast, 
a  plain  stretches  away  to  lofty  mountains.  These,  however, 
are  near  enough  to  be  always  in  sight  if  it  were  not  for  another 
peculiarity  of  this  rainless  coast,  the  low  clouds  or  mist  which 
too  often  conceal  or  ol).scure  them.  Along  the  central  portion 
of  I'eru  beginning  with  Salaverry,  the  mountains  come  down 
to  the  shore  in  many  bold  headlands  and  are  sometimes  so 
disposed  as  to  present  an  appearance  of  several  ranges  of 
varying  altitudes,  the  rearmost,  a  frowning  almost  perpen- 
dicular black  wall,  whicli,  back  of  Chimliote  and  Samanco, 
rises  to  the  extraordinary  height  of  15,000  to  18,000  feet. 
Rarely,  a  snow-crowned  summit  is  there  seen  peeping  over  a 
depression  in  the  Black  Range,  the  north  peak  of  the  great 
Iliuismrdn,  21,812  feet  above  the  sea,  first  ascended  in  1908 
])y  ]\Iiss  Annie  S,  Peck  with  two  Swiss  guides.  At  present 
Iluaseariin  is  called  the  second  highest  measured  mountain  in 
America,  but  it  is  far  more  difficult  to  climb  than  Aconcagua, 
now  hokling  fii-st  place.  Had  one  a  clear  view  of  these  great 
ranges,  the  voyage  to  the  mountain  lover  would  be  of  real 
fascination.  As  it  is,  the  long  halts  at  the  various  ports  to 
discharge  and  receive  freight  become  a  trifle  monofonous. 
No  doubt  in  time  there  will  be  through  service  with  direct  ox- 
press  to  Callao  from  Panama. 


CHAPTER  VII 

SALAVERRY— CHAN  CHAN— CHIMBOTE— 
THE  HUAILAS  VALLEY 

Salaverry,  66  miles  from  Pacasmayo,  is  usually  reached 
duriii"'  the  night.  At  this  port  a  few  tourists  may  be  tempted 
to  disembark,  perhaps  with  two  objects  in  view;  one  to  visit 
the  ancient  city  of  Chan  Chan,  the  flourishing  city  of  Trujillo, 
and  the  great  sugar  plantations  of  the  valley;  the  other,  for 
the  purpose  of  transferring  to  the  caletero  boat,  in  order  to 
land  at  Chimbote  or  Samanco,  thence  to  visit  the  Huailas  Val- 
ley to  admire  its  magnificent  scenery,  including  the  peerless 
Huascaran.  For  the  slight  discomfort  or  fatigue  which  may 
be  experienced  on  such  a  trip,  one  will  receive  ample  re- 
ward. 

Salaverry,  with  one  or  two  hundred  houses  on  the  desert 
shore,  is  a  port  merely,  near  a  bold  bluff  which  helps  to  make 
a  fair  harbor.  A  great  quantity  of  sugar  from  the  Chicama 
and  Santa  Catalina  Valleys  is  the  chief  export. 

Trujillo,  eight  miles  by  rail  from  the  harbor,  is  a  pretty  city 
of  10,000  people.  Founded  by  Pizarro  in  1535  near  the  ruined 
capital  of  the  Grand  Chimu,  it  is  one  of  the  most  aristocratic 
of  Peruvian  cities.  First  among  these  to  proclaim  independ- 
ence, December  22,  1820,  the  Department  received  from 
Bolivar  the  name  La  Libertad.  Trujillo  possesses  a  pretty 
shaded  plaza,  fashionable  for  the  evening  promenade,  several 
convents,  and  interesting  churches,  one  of  which,  the  San 
Agustin,  is  noteworthy  on  account  of  the  excellent  carving 
and  rich  gilding  of  the  pulpit  and  the  high  altar.  It  has  a  hos- 
pital, a  university,  a  club,  a  hippodrome,  a  theater,  and  three 
daily  papers;  also,  most  important  to  the  traveler,  a  respect- 
able but  far  from  luxurious  hotel  providing  rooms,  while  fair 
meals  may  be  procured  at  a  Chinese  restaurant  close  by. 

Sugar  Estates.  Well  worth  a  visit  are  the  splendid  sugar 
estates  up  the  Chicama  Valley,  Casa  Grande,  Roma,  Cartavio, 

50 


SUGAR  ESTATES  AND  CHAN  CHAN 


51 


and  others.  The  first,  au  liour  1)y  rail  IVoiu  Trujillo,  is  said 
to  l)e  the  hn-frost  sugar  plaiitatiou  in  the  world,  coutaiuiug  a 
total  pox)ulatiou  of  11,000,  cue-fourth  of  whieh  is  engaged  iu 
lahor  iu  the  fields  or  mills.  This  valley,  which  in  the  time 
of  the  Grand  Chimu  supported  a  great  population,  was  in  the 
last  century  almost  a  barren  desert  up  to  1873,  when  a  German 
visiting  the  valley  discovered  the  ancient  irrigating  canal, 
bought  up  laud,  and  soon  made  the  desert  blossom  as  the  rose. 
This  vallfiiLJiro^ces  rnn^p  gn^Tiiv  t)i,^n  the  entire  islancLjiL— 

^ Porto  Rico,  sugar  of'the  finest  quality.  In  the  temperate, 
*^q'^"^^^^^^'~^^""iTr,  ^l"^->'^TTTn-7rH  piAnj-rtTTTTr.nqcf  uiaturcs  early,  is 
unusually  rich  in  sugar,  and  may  be  cut  all  the  year  around. 
It  may  be  raised  at  a  profit  if  sold  at  1^4  cents  a  pound.  The 
estates  have  the  best  of  machinery,  and  expert  managers 
who  employ  the  latest  and  the  most  approved  metiiods. 
Churches,  schools,  and  hospitals  are  provided.  The  dwellings 
of  the  proprietors  and  superintendents  contain  most  of  the 
conveniences  and  luxuries  of  modern  life,  including  tele- 
phones. The  annual  exi)ort  of  sugar  from  Salaverry  amounts 
to  50,000  tons,  and  from  Huanchacho  near  by  to  half  as  much 
more.  Within  30  miles  of  Salaverry  are  also  rich  copper  and 
silver  mines,  far  more  accessible  than  those  on  the  plateau 
region  above,  and  with  a  more  agreeable  climate.  Their  de- 
velopment on  a  large  scale  will  not  long  be  delayed. 

Chan  Chan.     The  touristwho^is.  not  a  p(>ssiblejnv('stor--ar 

^looking  after  commercial  interests  may  rather  turn  his  atten- 
freat  ruins  Ilortli"~Df~Trwjillo  orruxa  road 

■"tlTTeresTec^ 


,very    crrrn 

-tiquitieo  olioukl-^v4yrt"THe~rTiins  of  Clian  Chan,  the  largest  aiid 
,  most  important  of  the  dead  cities  ou  our  Mestern  coast^!  F(5r 
a  good  ]>edestnan  it  is  a  moderate  walk  irom  Trujilln.  thmtytt— 
a  hoTse  maywell  ser\irthe  majrrrtt^ — HmTTlie  » J  rand  Chiiiiu 
once  ruled  over  the  twenty  northern  valleys  ot"  the  Peruvian 
coast,  from  Tumbes  on  the  north  to  Supe,  well  towards  the 
Rimac  valley  on  the  south.  Here  was  a  civilization  entirely 
distinct  from  that  of  the  Incas,  unliappily  overtiirown  by  them 
some  four  generations  before  the  Conquest  by  Pizarro.  A 
fertile  plain  90  miles  long  was  watered  from  three  rivers  by 
a  remarkable  system  of  in-igation.  An  aciueduct  tapping  the 
Muchi  River  high  up  iu  the  mountains  carried  water  across  the 


52  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

valley  on  an  emhankment  60  feet  high.     Remains  of  a  great 
reservoir  hetvveen  Trujillo  and  Casa  Grande  indicate  a  capacity 
of  two  billion  cul)ic  i'eet  of  water.     The  city  itself,  open  to 
the  sea,  was  protected  on  the  east  from  land  invaders  by  a 
thick  and  lofty  wall  extending  for  miles  along  its  borders. 
That  it  was  at  last  compelled  to  succumb  to  the  Incas  is  believed 
to  be  because  tliese  succeeded  in  diverting  the  water  supply. 
/^    The  site  of  Chan  Clum,  once  probably  the  largest  city  in 
(  the  New  World,  with  an  area  of  fifty  or  sixty  square  miles,  is 
\  now  a  melancholy  spectacle.     "What  ruthless  destruction  has 
''  been  wrought !     What  loss  to  the  human  race,  through  the 
overthrow  of  ancient  civilization,  again  and  again  followed  by 
relapses  into  partial  or  complete  barbarism  and  toilsome  prog- 
ress upward  !     Will  people  ever  learn  to  moderate  their  greed 
for  wealth  and  power,  and  suffer  others  to  dwell  in  peace  after 
their  own  fashion ! 

For  a  cursory  or  careful  inspection  of  the  ruins  a  guide 
should  be  employed,  as  wandering  at  random  one  may  miss 
or  fail  to  understand  the  most  important  remains.  In  the 
labyrinth  of  walls  with  various  enclosures  containing  numer- 
ous buildings,  an  immense  mound  is  an  occasional  feature. 
One  built  of  stone  and  rubble,  150  feet  high,  called  Obispo, 
covers  an  area  of  500  square  feet.  To  the  casual  observer 
the  design  would  not  be  obvious.  Originally  the  mounds  were 
in  terraces,  upon  which  buildings  were  erected  with  various 
passages  leading  to  store  rooms  or  burial  chambers  in  the  in- 
terior. With  gardens  around  their  base  a  splendid  effect 
must  have  been  created.  The  Spaniards  early  searched  these 
mounds  for  treasure,  with  great  success.  From  one  called 
the  Toledo  three  million  dollars  are  said  to  have  been  taken; 
from  the  entire  city  $15,000,000.  A  broad  lower  mound 
proved  to  be  a  cemetery,  where  in  niches  were  found  mum- 
mies in  elaborate  garments  of  fine  cotton  adorned  with  gold 
and  silver.  In  the  center  is  a  structure  doubtless  for  the  per- 
formance of  the  funeral  rites. 

The  great  palace  of  the  Cliimu  enclosed  a  large  hall  100  by 
5214  feet.  Its  walls,  containing  a  series  of  niches,  Avere  covered 
between  with  stucco  relief  work  in  arabesque  patterns.  Two 
structures  of  unusual  form  are  believed  to  be  factories.  Ar- 
ranged around  a  square  which  had  a  reservoir  in  the  center 


RUINS  OF  CHAN  CHAN  53 

were  twenty-two  recesses,  probably  for  shops.  Opening  on 
smaller  courts  and  passages  were  one  hundred  and  eleven 
rooms,  probably  workshops  for  artificers  in  gold,  silver,  and 
bronze,  and  for  designers,  dyers,  potters,  and  weavers.  "Won- 
derful ornaments  of  gold  and  silver  have  been  found,  fine 
textile  fabrics,  and  most  remarkable,  the  pottery,  white,  black, 
and  pale  red,  which  in  immense  quantities  has  been  taken 
from  the  mounds  called  liuacas,  a  name  applied  also  to  the 
objects.  On  the  various  specimens  of  this  ceramic  ware  is 
portrayed  every  kind  of  fish,  bird,  mammal,  and  fruit,  with 
which  they  were  acquainted,  also  human  beings,  some  in  i)or- 
traits,  others  as  caricatures.  There  are  groups  engaged  in 
war  dances,  in  harvesting,  and  in  other  occupations.  Some 
specimens  of  the  pottery  are  said  to  be  e(iual  to  any  which  has 
been  fashioned,  from  the  best  days  of  ancient  Greece  u|)  to 
the  present  time.  Near  the  banks  of  the  river  IMuchi  at  the 
south,  stood  a  temple  to  the  moon  called  Si  An,  where  im- 
portant religious  cei-emonies  and  processions  took  place. 

Evidently  the  Grand  Chimu  was  a  powerful  monarch  with 
a  magnificent  court,  ruling  over  subjects  who  lived  in  comfort. 
Their  language,  IMochica,  is  little  known,  as  the  race  is  prac- 
tically extinct.  When  conquered  by  the  Incas  they  were 
neither  destroyed  nor  robbed  of  all  their  wealth.  It  was 
Pizarro  and  his  followers  who,  though  amazed  at  the  greatness 
and  beauty  of  the  edifices,  wantonly  robbed  and  persecuted 
the  inhabitants  until  the  country  was  laid  waste.  The  people 
and  their  civilization  vanished  and  Avere  forgotten.  The 
language,  wholly  different  from  the  Quichua,  gives  no  hint  as 
to  the  origin  of  the  people.  Neither  does  tradition  lighten 
the  mystery,  nor  their  art,  which  relates  wholly  to  their  en- 
vironment, thougli  beti"iying  some  similarity  to  ]\Iayo  works. 
An  exhaustive  study  of  the  language  and  of  the  archa-o- 
logical  remains  is  required  to  reconstruct  the  histoiy  of  tliis 
remarkable  people  whose  ancestoi-s  are  believed  to  h;ivc  dwelt 
here  long"  befoi-e  the  Christian  l^-a. 

Moche.  between  the  city  of  Trujillo  and  the  port  Salaverry 
is  an  Indian  town  called  .Moche,  the  inhabitants  of  which  may 
be  remnants  of  this  old  race.  They  wear  a  distinctive  dress, 
are  proud  of  their  unmixed  linejige,  and  do  not  intermarry 
with  others.     The  costume  of  the   women,   merely  a  chemise 


54  Tllli:  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

uilli  a  piece  of  dark  blue  cloth  wrapped  around  the  body  and 
fastened  at  the  waist,  to  be  seen  anywhere  in  ]Moche,  is  not 
allowed  in  Trujillo. 

Continuing  from  Salaverry  by  express  steamer,  one  arrives 
the  day  followinfjr  at  Callao,  a  twenty-two  liours'  run. 

Chimbote  and  the  Huailas  Valley.  The  tourist  who  desires 
to  behold  the  wonderful  scenery  of  the  Huailas  Valley  and 
magnificent  Huascaran,  surely  repaying  a  little  trouble,  at 
present  transfers  at  Salaverry  to  the  weekly  caletero  boat  for 
Chimbote  or  Samaneo.  "With  the  completion  of  the  railway  to 
Caraz  and  beyond,  promised  within  a  year  or  two  (as,  alas! 
since  1906),  Chimbote  will  doubtless  become  a  primary  port, 
receiving  calls  from  the  express  steamers.  When  this  hap- 
pens, no  one  should  omit  the  delightful  railway  journey  of  135 
miles  to  Yungay,  at  the  foot  of  the  great  Huascaran.  At  the 
moment,  the  trip  may  be  enjoyed  by  the  robust  traveler,  as 
the  three  or  four  days'  horseback  ride  into  the  valley  involves 
no  hardship,  save  fatigue  to  those  unwonted  to  such  jour- 
neys, and  the  spending  of  several  nights  in  rather  primitive 
inns. 

The  harbor  of  Chimbote,  by  some  called  the  finest  on  the 
entire  AYest  Coast  below  Panama,  is  practically  landlocked 
by  a  peninsula  and  several  islands.  It  has  an  area  of  about 
36  square  miles,  without  a  single  rock  below  its  placid  surface. 
The  usual  pier  extends  from  a  sandy  beach  which  affords 
splendid  bathing  facilities;  but  docks,  approachable  by  the 
largest  ships,  could  be  arranged  on  one  of  the  islands,  which 
a  bridge  across  a  200-yard  channel  would  easily  connect  with 
the  main  land.  The  American  capitalist,  Henry  ]Meiggs,  the 
prime  mover  in  the  construction  of  the  South  and  Central 
Peruvian  Railways,  had  the  foresight  in  the  early  seventies 
to  perceive  the  great  business  possibilities  of  the  Chimbote 
harbor,  and  planned  the  railway  from  Chimbote  up  the 
valley  of  the  Santa  River  and  along  the  Huailas  Valley  to 
Huaraz,  167  miles.  A  beginning  was  made,  the  road  bed 
was  constructed  for  80  miles,  the  rails  were  laid  for  60,  when 
the  Chilian  war  broke  out.  The  invaders,  having  captured 
Chimbote,  carried  off  the  rolling  stock  and  supplies,  and  de- 
stroyed whatever  could  not  be  removed.  After  the  close  of 
the  war,  Peru  being  bankrupt,  the  project  remained  for  some 


CHDIBOTE  AND  THE  HUAILAS  VALLEY         55 

years  in  abeyance,  during  wiiich  time  the  road  was  operated 
only  to  Tablones,  a  distance  of  35  miles.  Under  recent  con- 
cessions some  work  has  been  accomplished  and  the  road  is 
now  open  30  miles  farther.  It  is  expected  that  the  Peruvian 
Corporation,  at  present  in  control,  will  soon  complete  the  line 
to  Kecuay,  a  little  beyond  lluaraz,  when  better  accommoda- 
tions for  tourists  will  surely  be  provided.  At  present  some 
of  the  towns  have  no  hotels  Avhatever,  while  in  others  tiiose 
existing  are  very  poor.  Happily  the  residents  are  most  hos- 
pitable, and  strangers  with  letters  of  introduction,  or  in  some 
cases  without,  are  agreeably  entertained  by  some  of  the  best 
families.  Naturally,  with  better  facilities  for  travel  this  pleas- 
ant custom  will  cease.  At  Chimbote  the  small  and  poor  hotel 
where  I  stayed  in  1U06,  if  not  already  enlarged  and  improved, 
will  doubtless  soon  be  superseded  by  a  more  adequate  establish- 
ment. Back  of  the  town,  together  with  a  mound  and  walls 
remaining  from  an  ancient  city,  are  vestiges  of  an  aqueduct, 
presumably  constructed  in  Chimu  days.  AVhen  these  are  re- 
paired the  desert  plain  near  by,  which  bears  an  excellent  soil, 
will  be  fruitful  enough  to  support  the  great  city  laid  out 
by  Meiggs  and  expected  to  follow  the  completion  of  the  rail- 
road. This  project  was  originally  undertaken,  not  for  the 
purpose  of  conducting  tourists  to  the  splendid  scenery  of  the 
Iluailas  Valle}',  nor  priniarily  for  the  convenience  of  its  present 
large  population  and  the  export  of  its  agricultural  products. 
The  chief  value  of  the  railroad  lies  in  its  opening  up  the  im- 
mense coal  fields  of  the  region.  Along  the  Santa  River  are 
millions  of  tons  of  excellent  coal,  which  some  persons  believed 
worthless,  because  it  is  chiefly  anthracite  and  semi-anthracite, 
therefore  non-coking;  ignorant  of  the  fact  that  except  for 
smelting  purposes  it  is  more  valuable  than  soft  coal. 

This  railroad  has  an  advantage  over  the  others  leading  into 
the  interior,  in  being  able  to  follow  the  Santa  River  through 
a  cut  in  the  Coast  Range,  instead  of  climbing  15.000  feet  over 
it.  Thus  by  a  moderate  grade  it  will  rcaeh  the  Huailas  Valley. 
A  serious  impediment  to  the  construction  is  the  narrow  gorge 
through  the  mountains,  impracticable  even  for  a  pedestrian; 
yet  the  difticulty  will  soon  be  overcome.  After  ten  mih's  on 
the  desert  the  road  passes  near  sugar  jilantations  and  liai-i.-n- 
das.     The  region  of  coal  deposits  follows,  extending  through 


56  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

the  mountain  range  and  up  tlie  two  lateral  valleys  beyond,  the 
north  in  the  direction  of  Cajaniarea,  the  south,  the  Iluailas 
Valley,  to  Recuay.  The  passage  of  the  sombre  gorge  will 
be  along  the  side  of  splendid  cliffs  with  a  foaming  stream 
below,  a  continuous  spectacle  of  superb  grandeur.  Turning 
south  into  the  Huailas  Valley,  from  one  to  four  miles  wide, 
the  traveler  has  the  White  Range  on  the  east,  the  Black  on 
the  west.  The  floor  of  the  valley  is  beautiful  with  green  fields 
of  alfalfa  and  vegetables,  with  vineyards,  fig  and  orange  trees, 
chirimoias,  and  other  tropical  and  subtropical  fruits,  and  with 
hedges  of  fragrant  flowers:  above  are  rounded  hillsides  bear- 
ing the  grains,  green  or  golden,  of  temperate  climes,  higher 
are  cliffs  either  gray  or  black,  and  on  the  east  white  peaks  of 
dazzling  splendor  rising  1-1,000,  16,000  feet  above  the  valley, 
which  itself  slowly  ascends  from  4000  to  10,000  feet  above 
the  sea.  The  lower  western  w^all  attains  an  altitude  of  from 
15,000  to  18,000  feet.  Travelers  may  always  disagree  as  to  the 
finest  scenery  in  the  world,  but  few  visitors  to  this  valley 
will  deny  that  it  is  unsurpassed  in  the  Western  Hemisphere. 
In  scenic  splendor  excelling  Chamonix,  in  mineral  riches  it 
rivals  the  Klondike;  for  on  both  sides,  the  mountains  are 
veined  with  gold,  silver,  and  copper,  as  well  as  the  more  use- 
ful if  plebeian  coal. 

Huascaran.  Cardz,  a  pretty  town  with  a  delightful  climate 
at  an  altitude  of  6000  feet,  is  situated  at  the  base  of  Huandoy, 
21,000  feet,  while  Yungaij,  at  8300  feet,  has  a  still  finer  loca- 
tion on  the  lower  slope  of  the  great  Huascaran,  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  of  the  world's  mountains,  first  climbed  by  Miss  Peck 
on  her  sixth  attempt,  September  2,  1908,  in  company  with  two 
Swiss  guides,  her  earlier  efforts  being  rendered  abortive 
through  inability  to  provide  other  assistants  than  the  inexpen- 
sive and  incompetent  natives.  In  recognition  of  this  remark- 
able ascent  to  a  summit  1500  feet  higher  than  I\It.  ]\IcKinley, 
Miss  Peck  was  presented  by  the  Government  of  Peru  with  a 
very  beautiful  gold  medal.  Of  the  twin  peaks,  the  north  was 
the  summit  attained :  this,  according  to  later  measurement  by 
French  engineers,  has  an  altitude  of  21,812  feet;  the  south 
peak,  22,187  feet,  pronounced  by  the  guides  impossible  at  the 
time,  remains  for  some  other  mountaineer  to  conquer.  Other 
snow  mountains  a  little  lower,  of  varying  degrees  of  difficulty, 


MT.    HUASCAUAX,    FIUjM    AN    ALTITUDE    OF    10,000    FKKT 


i 


LLANOANt'CO    liUUCL 


THE  HUAILAS  VALLEY  57 

afford  opportunity  for  a  number  of  first  ascents  of  20,000  feet 
and  upwards. 

The  tourist  mIio  is  not  a  mountain  climber  will  find  ample 
reward  for  his  journey  in  admiring  these  peaks  from  the 
valley.  He  should,  however,  take  a  few  horseljack  rides, 
especially  one  from  Yungay  through  the  Llanganuco  Gorge, 
by  which  there  is  a  frequented  pass  between  Huascaran  and 
Iluandoy  to  the  mountainous  and  mineral  region  east  of  the 
White  Range.  This  splendid  excursion  may  be  made  in  a 
single  day  from  Yungay,  but  the  feel)le,  or  the  novice  in  horse- 
back riding  may  prefer  to  spend  the  night  at  a  ranch  house 
at  the  east  end  of  the  gorge,  perhaps  extending  the  excursion 
some  distance  beyond.  In  any  case  provisions  should  be  taken 
from  Yungay. 

After  a  pleasant  two  hours'  ride  over  the  green  foothills, 
one  enters  the  narrow  gorge  four  miles  long,  and  a  quarter  to 
a  half  mile  wide,  where  a  sublime  spectacle  is  presented. 
Practically  perpendicular  cliffs,  more  lofty  than  those  of  the 
Yosemite,  rise  on  either  hand,  until  at  the  center  of  the  gorge 
one  gazes  at  the  sheer  north  wall  of  Huascaran  towering  10,000 
feet  above  the  floor  of  the  canon  which  itself  has  a  height  of 
12,000  feet.  On  the  left,  high  up  between  massive  triangular 
cliffs,  gleam  glaciers  of  the  sharper  Iluandoy,  almost  as  high 
as  *  iC  snowy  coverlet  jjeering  over  the  edge  of  Huascaran. 
A  beautiful  lake  half  a  mile  long,  near  the  center  occupies 
the  entire  floor  of  the  valley.  One  rides  along  the  pathway, 
in  places  cut  out  of  the  solid  rock,  in  others  supported  by 
tree  trunks,  where  a  horse's  stumble  might  easily  precipitate 
his  rider  into  the  so-called  fathomless  lake  100  feet  below ; 
but  tbe  excellent  horses  climb  vei'itable  stairs  with  ease,  and 
there  is  no  occasion  for  disciuietude.  In  the  distant  fore- 
ground a  beautiful  snowclad  mountain  is  in  brilliant  contrast 
to  the  somber  and  awesome  surroundings.  A  second  lake 
follows;  a  silveiy  waterfall  on  the  left  leaps  down  a  few 
thousand  feet  in  a  shimmering  shower  of  spray.  Hcyontl  the 
lakes  are  meadows,  then  the  ranch  lumse.  To  continue  thence 
to  the  south  to  behold  the  eastern  face  of  Huascaran  and  other 
splendid  peaks  is  well  worth  the  sturdy  traveler's  while. 
At  least  the  Llanganuco  r!or;j:e  should  be  travci-scd  l)y  every 
visitor  to  the  valley,  though  many  of  the  natives  of  Yungay 


58  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

have  never  admired  its  grandeur,  as  many  residents  of  Buffalo 
have  never  seen  Niagara  Falls.  Several  delightful  walks  or 
rides  should  be  taken  to  the  hills  hack  of  Yungay,  and  to 
a  buttress  of  the  Black  Range  opposite.  From  one  of  the 
former,  a  little  to  the  south,  may  be  had  the  finest  possible 
view  of  the  mountain.  A  pleasant  ride,  of  three  hours 
each  way  (a  whole  day  should  be  allowed  for  the  trip),  is  to 
the  gold  mine  Matarao  (10,000  feet),  above  the  village  of 
Mancos.  From  this  point  Huascaran  may  be  climbed ;  or  one 
may  walk  up  to  the  snow  line  and  return  the  same  day,  if 
not  affected  by  the  altitude. 

Before  the  completion  of  the  railroad  the  tourist  may  ad- 
venture thither  by  riding  up  over  the  Black  Range.  AVithout 
letters  of  introduction  to  hospitable  hosts,  one  should  write 
a  week  or  two  in  advance  to  the  steamship  agent  at  Samanco 
requesting  him  to  have  horses  ready  at  the  port,  since  none  may 
be  obtained  there.  One  may  ride  on  the  day  of  arrival  30 
miles  to  ]\Ioro  where  there  is  a  poor  hotel.  The  second  day 
one  may  proceed  to  Pamparomas,  where  food  and  lodging  of  a 
sort  are  provided.  A  long  third  day's  ride  will  bring  one 
at  nightfall  to  Yungay.  From  the  altitude  of  14,700  feet  at 
the  top  of  the  pass  in  the  Black  Range,  there  is  a  glorious 
picture  of  the  Cordillera  Blanca,  a  row  of  snowclad  giants  ex- 
tending north  and  south  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach;  i'hile 
a  gloomy  canon  close  in  front  leads  down  to  the  beautiful 
valley.  A  truly  hardy  traveler  may  enjoy  pursuing  his  way 
up  the  Huailas  Valley  to  Huaraz  and  on  to  Cerro  de  Pasco, 
from  Yungay  a  ten  days'  journey;  either  by  way  of  Huanuco 
in  the  montana  section  east  of  the  mountains,  or  by  Chiquian 
on  the  plateau  near  the  foot  of  another  splendid  peak. 


CITAPTEK  VIII 

CALLAO  TO  LIMA— HISTORY 

Callao.  The  harbor  of  Callao,  six  or  seven  days  direct 
from  Panama,  in  contrast  to  tlie  ports  where  the  ship  has 
previously  called,  presents  an  attractive  picture.  If  the  ar- 
rival is  in  the  early  evening  the  brilliant  and  extensive  display 
of  lights  indicates  a  considerable  city  and  a  wide  array  of  ship- 
ping. By  day  one  will  admire  the  varied  landscape,  the  busy 
docks  and  the  city  in  front,  the  verdure  of  the  Rimac  Valley  at 
the  left  with  its  scattered  enclosing  heights  often  i)artly  hid- 
den by  clouds,  and  the  contrasting  bluffs  of  the  islands  San 
Lorenzo  and  Fronton  on  the  right,  which,  with  the  long  sandy 
bar  called  La  Punta  extending  a  mile  out  from  the  city, 
form  a  well  protected  harbor.  Of  the  few  such  on  the  West 
Coast  this  alone  has  been  actively  utilized.  Unfortunately  the 
other  chief  commercial  ports  are  open  roadsteads.  In  1537, 
two  years  after  the  founding  of  Lima,  a  city  was  established  at 
the  port,  where  soon  there  was  a  busy  harbor,  Avith  vessels 
bringing  all  kinds  of  merchandise  from  Europe,  and  departing 
laden  with  rich  cargoes  of  gold  and  silver  and  a  few  otiier  prod- 
ucts. In  the  early  colonial  days  Callao  was  several  times 
pillaged  by  pirates,  but  later  suffered  a  far  greater  calamity, 
exceeding  the  recent  disasters  at  Valparaiso  and  San  Francisco, 
and  paralleled  only  by  the  fate  of  Port  Royal.  October  28, 
1746,  a  terrible  earthquake  occurred,  accompanied  by  a  tidal 
wave  w'hich  engulfed  the  city,  destroying  all,  save  one  or  two, 
of  the  6000  inliabitants.  The  site  sank  Ix'ucalh  the  ocean. 
The  present  city  was  rebuilt  to  the  nortli  of  the  earlier  settle- 
ment. Many  ships  lie  at  anchor  in  its  harbor,  some  at  the 
docks,  others  outside:  sailing  vessels,  large  steamers,  both 
passenger  and  freight,  a  half-do/.en  men  of  war,  Peruvian, 
British,  perhaps  American,  the  last  prol)ably  flying  the  only 
United    States   flag   visible.     Seldom   does   a   ship    approach 

59 


60  THE  SOUTH  A:\rERICAN  TOUR 

the  docks  on  ariival,  and  not  at  all  if  its  stay  is  to  be 
short.  The  freight  is  diseliarjied  into  ligliters,  the  passen- 
gers with  their  baggage  into  rowboats.  As  the  water  is  al- 
ways smooth,  this,  tliough  inconvenient  and  an  additional 
expense,  is  no  great  hardship.  The  fare  to  the  shore  is 
40  centavos.  A  bargain  should  be  made  with  the  flctero, 
as  the  men  are  called  who  have  numbers  on  their  hats  in- 
dicating that  they  are  duly  licensed.  These  men  will  take 
charge  of  your  luggage,  large  pieces  and  small,  delivering  it 
safely  at  your  hotel  in  Lima.  They  are  fikely  to  ask  double 
what  it  is  worth,  not  in  comparison  with  New  York  prices, 
but  with  what  it  is  needful  to  pay.  The  Lima  Express  Com- 
pany has  a  fixed  tariff  of  1.50  soles  for  a  large  trunk,  80 
centavos  for  each  piece  of  hand  baggage,  although  for  several 
a  reduction  may  be  made.  The  figure  agreed  upon  should 
include  the  fee  for  taking  both  passengers  and  baggage,  except 
that  the  passenger  will  often  make  his  own  way  from  the 
dock  to  his  hotel  in  Lima.  Stipulation  should  be  made  for 
the  delivery  of  the  baggage  within  two  or  three  hours,  though 
it  may  then  arrive  much  later.  What  one  carries  one's  self 
should  not  be  counted.  If  undecided  what  hotel  to  patronize 
one  may  arrange  with  the  fletero  for  half  price  to  conduct  him 
and  to  transport  his  baggage  to  the  railway  station,  where  it 
may  be  checked  to  Lima.  Trains  every  half  hour,  fare  20 
ctvs.  Leaving  it  at  the  station  Desamparados  in  Lima,  a 
block  from  the  principal  plaza,  the  tourist  may  look  about 
and  arrange  where  to  go.  Persons  who  have  decided  in  ad- 
vance may  go  with  the  fletero  to  the  railway  station  or,  after 
passing  the  customs  examination  at  the  dock,  may  turn  to  the 
right,  then  left,  and  walk  a  block  or  so  to  the  electric  cars 
which  run  every  ten  minutes  to  Lima,  a  ride  of  about  twenty 
minutes  through  the  center  of  Callao,  and  along  a  broad  bou- 
levard to  the  larger  city  eight  miles  distant.  From  the  end 
of  the  line  in  Lima  it  is  a  walk  of  four  blocks  to  the  left  and 
one  to  the  right  to  the  Hotel  Maury;  or  a  cab  may  be  taken 
(fare  for  one  or  two  persons,  40  centavos),  to  the  destination 
desired. 

The  tourist  on  landing  will  give  Callao  but  a  passing  glance, 
and  is  likely  to  return  only  to  embark  on  his  departure ;  but 
a  few  points  of  interest  may  be  mentioned.  A  floating  dry 
dock  belonging  to  the  Peruvian  Steamship  Company  will  re- 


CALLAO  TO  LIMA  61 

ceive  ships  of  7000  tons  within  the  space  of  two  hours.  Tlie 
city  is  of  foreign  aspect,  with  buildings  of  one  or  two  stories. 
Noticeable  are  the  women  with  .stands  of  strange  and  familiar 
fruits  and  other  edibles.  The  newsboys  seem  natural ;  the 
electric  cars  are  of  the  best  quality,  some  Avith  compartments 
of  the  first  and  second  class,  with  prices  to  Lima,  20  and  10 
centavos  respectively.  Among  many  narrow  streets  are  some 
wide  ones;  two  or  three  small  but  respectable  hotels  afford 
accommodation  at  modest  prices,  one  sol  a  day  for  a  room,  or 
at  double  the  rate  and  more.  There  are  several  large  plazas, 
(open  S(iuares)  and  a  few  Clubs,  the  English  with  good  quar- 
ters fronting  the  bay,  and  with  a  fine  view  from  the  balconies, 
the  Italian,  Centro  Naval,  Union,  Boat  Club,  etc.  Among  the 
churches,  hosjoitals,  and  pul)lic  edifices,  the  most  noticeable 
is  the  Aduana  or  Custom-house,  which  is  seen  at  the  right 
from  the  car  as  it  is  passing  through  the  first  plaza.  Of  the 
churches,  that  of  La  ]\Iatriz  is  most  important.  The  plaza  in 
fi'ont  is  adorned  with  a  statue  of  General  San  ]\Iartin;  the 
Plaza  Grau  has  a  handsome  monument  to  the  celebrated 
Admiral  of  that  name ;  while  in  the  square  called  Dos  de  ^layo 
is  a  marble  pillar  surmounted  by  a  bust  of  Jose  Galvez, 
IMinister  of  War,  killed  in  the  naval  battle  at  Callao,  May, 
1866.  Should  one  desire  further  information  as  to  shops  or 
other  nuitters,  inquiry  may  be  made  at  the  importing  house 
of  W.  R.  Grace  of  New  York  (ask  for  Casa  Grace)  ;  or  at  one 
of  the  steamship  offices,  all  of  which  are  near  the  landing. 

Peruvian  History 

For  the  fuller  enjoyment  and  aiii)recialion  of  Lima,  a  little  more 
history  may  be  an  advanlai^e.  The  heroes  of  Peru  are  many.  The 
names  of  a  few  will  often  be  heard,  and  a  knowlcdiiv  of  tht'ir  valiant 
deeds,  a  slight  acquaintance  with  Spanish  American  history,  is  de- 
sirable. 

After  the  news  of  the  Conquest  had  been  carried  to  Charles  V  to- 
gether with  the  royal  fifth  of  the  gold  treasure  obtained  l)y  Pi/.arro, 
tlie  Con(|ueror  received  an  additional  giant  of  seventy  leagues  of 
land  to  the  south  of  the  two  hundred  previously  bestowed,  wiiich 
beiian  in  Ecuador  about  one  decree  north  of  tlie  e(|uator.  To  Al- 
magro,  Pizarro's  i)aitner,  was  given  two  hundred  leagues  south  of 
this  dominion.  Just  where  the  dividing  line  ran  was  a  matter  of  <lis- 
l)ute,  each  claiming  that  Cuzco  lay  in  his  territory.     However,  a  truce 


62  TPIE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

was  declared  until  Hernando  Pizano  should  arrive  with  the  docu- 
ments, Alniajjro  meanwhile  setting  out  in  153o  on  what  proved  to*  be 
an  arduous  and  futile  expedition  for  the  conquest  of  Chile.  On  his 
return  he  again  set  up  his  claim  to  Cuzco.  A  contest  with 
Hernando  Pizarro  ensued ;  Almagro  gained  possession  of  the  ancient 
city,  but  was  later  put  to  death  there  by  order  of  his  old  friend  and 
ally,  Francisco  Pizarro.  The  claim  of  Almagro's  son  to  his  father's 
ten-itory  then  being  denied,  this  so  enraged  the  followers  of  that 
brave  and  generous  chieftain  tiiat  they  resolved  to  avenge  his  wrongs. 
Kusliing  into  the  house  of  Pizarro  they  slew  him  before  he  could  arm 
himself  to  resist.  Thus  in  1541  perished  the  Conqueror  after  a  few 
brief  years  in  the  enjoyment  of  his  astonishing  success. 

For  nearly  three  centuries  afterward,  Peru  was  governed  by  a 
Viceroy,  who  until  1740  had  authority  over  the  whole  of  Spanish 
South  America.  The  Viceroy  was  assisted  by  a  Real  Audiencia,  con- 
sisting of  four  oidores  or  judges  who  possessed  extensive  civil  and 
criminal  powers.  Another  Audiencia  was  also  established  at  Chu- 
quisaca,  Sucre,  in  Alto  Peru,  now  Bolivia.  During  the  colonial  days 
the  Indians  were  greatly  oppressed  by  the  Spanish  residents,  who 
drew  vast  wealth  from  the  mines  and  lived  in  luxury  and  splendor. 
At  the  same  time  the  colonists  suffered  various  vicissitudes,  attacks 
by  pirates,  an  epidemic  of  smallpox,  two  severe  earthquakes  in  1687 
and  1746,  and  insurrections  of  the  Indians;  but  in  the  main  the 
country  was  prosperous. 

For  centuries  the  spirit  of  loyalty  remained,  but  the  North 
American  and  the  French  revolutions  encouraged  the  spread  of 
liberal  ideas,  which  events  in  Spain  made  easier  to  be  carried  into 
execution.  Although  the  Viceroy,  Fernando  Abaseal,  Avhose  ad- 
ministration lasted  from  1806  to  1816,  made  many  concessions  and 
improvements,  it  was  impossible  to  stem  the  tide.  After  the  abdi- 
cation of  Charles  IV  of  Spain  in  1808  in  favor  of  his  son  Ferdi- 
nand VII,  and  the  subsequent  crowning  of  Joseph  Bonaparte  as 
king,  orders  were  sent  out  for  the  colonists  to  transfer  their  alle- 
giance to  the  new  ruler.  It  happened,  however,  that  a  decree  of 
Charles  V  in  1530,  confirmed  by  Philip  II  in  1563,  had  authorized 
the  colonies  in  case  of  emergency  to  convoke  Juntas  or  political 
assemblies.  These  convening  in  the  various  colonial  capitals  de- 
clared loyalty  to  the  banished  King  Ferdinand  and  refused  to 
recognize  the  authority  of  Spain  while  in  the  hands  of  a  usurper. 
The  leaders  were  already  planning  ultimate  independence,  but  the 
masses  Avere  not  yet  weaned  from  their  loyalty.  In  Buenos  Aires 
the  Viceroy  was  expelled  without  trouble,  but  in  the  other  colonies 
the  struggle  was  severe  and  prolonged.  In  Lima  the  Viceroy  em- 
ployed harsh  measures  against  the  patriots.     In  1809  royalist  troops 


CALLAO  TO  LIMA  63 

were  sent  from  here  to  Quito,  and  an  army  under  General  Goyeneche 
to  Alto  Peru,  to  oppose  the  revolutionists.  February  13,  1812,  in- 
dependence was  proclaimed  at  Huanuco,  in  181-4  at  Cuzco;  but  at 
length  the  royalists  everywhere  gained  the  day,  so  tiiat  when 
Abascal  retired  to  Spain  iu  181(),  Buenos  Aires  alone  remained  in 
the  hands  of  the  patriots.  Nevertheless,  the  successor  of  Abascal, 
General  Pezuela,  was  the  last  of  the  Viceroys.  Although  Ferdinand 
was  now  restored  to  the  throne  of  Spain,  the  spirit  in  favor  of  in- 
dependence had  become  general.  With  an  empty  treasury,  and 
general  disorder  in  the  departments  of  government,  the  Viceroy  found 
himself  confronted  by  a  resurrection  of  the  enemy  who,  after  vic- 
tories in  the  south  and  north,  at  length  advanced  upon  Peru. 

First  came  the  Liberating  Army  from  the  south,  organized  in 
Mendoza  by  General  San  Martin,  who,  in  1817,  had  overthrown  the 
royalists  in  Chile.  Landing  near  Pisco,  122  miles  south  of  Lima, 
September  7,  1820,  General  San  Martin  issued,  September  8,  a 
proclamation  stating  that  he  had  come  to  liberate  the  people,  not 
to  make  conquests.  Robbei-y  was  prohibited ;  and  bloodshed,  ex- 
cept on  the  field  of  battle.  The  Viceroy  proposed  a  conference 
which  was  held  at   MiraHores  without  result. 

An  army  of  1000  soldiers  under  General  Arenales,  dispatched  by 
San  Martin  from  Pisco  to  the  interior,  after  gaining  many  recruits 
defeated  a  royalist  force  near  Cerro  de  Pasco.  Meantime  San  Mar- 
tin had  proceeded  to  Ancon  just  north  of  Lima,  and  then  to  Huaura 
near  Huacho,  while  Admiral  Cochrane,  with  his  new  Chilian  tieet, 
captured  by  surprise  at  night  the  Spanish  frigate  Esmeralda  in 
the  port  of  Callao.  In  January,  1821,  the  Viceroy  abdicated  and 
returned  to  Spain  leaving  in  command  General  La  Serna,  who  with- 
drew to  the  interior  on  the  advance  of  the  patriot  army.  July  12, 
1821,  San  Martin  entered  the  capital;  July  28,  which  is  regarded  as 
Peru's  Independence  Day,  proclamation  was  made  in  the  Plaza  in 
front  of  the  palace — "From  this  moment  Peru  is  free  and  inde- 
pendent by  the  will  of  the  people  and  by  the  justice  of  their 
cause  which  God  defends." 

San  Martin,  now  called  the  Protector,  after  organizing  a  pro- 
visional government  and  arranging  for  a  national  congress  went  to 
Guaya(|uil  to  meet  General  Siinon  Bolivar,  who,  having  freed  Vene- 
zuela and  Colombia,  was  coming  from  the  north.  The  particulars 
of  the  conference  were  not  revealed.  A  disagreement  was  evident. 
San  Martin,  returning,  resigned  the  goveniment  into  the  hands  of 
the  Constituent  Congress  which  met  in  1822.  and  withdrew  to  Argen- 
tina and  FiUrope.  The  assembly  conferred  on  him  the  title  of 
Founder  of  Libeity  of  Peru,  decreed  a  life  jtension  and  other  honors; 
but  the  pension  probably  lapsed,  as  San  Martin  died  in  comparative 


64  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

poverty  in  1S50  at  the  age  of  seventy-two.  The  hero's  patriotism, 
couraye,  skill,  unselfish  devotion,  high  principles,  and  sterling  char- 
acter make  him  worthy  to  stand  with  the  noblest  patriots  of  history. 
His  name  in  South  America  is  honored  as  is  that  of  Washington 
in  Nortli  America,  and  with  equal  justice.  It  should  be  known  among 
lis,  as  is  Washington's  among  them. 

General  Bolivar  arrived  in  Lima  September  1,  1823,  and  was  in- 
vested with  supreme  power.  There  were  now  two  armies  of  royalist 
troops  in  the  interior;  in  July,  1824,  the  Liberating  Army  of  the 
North  began  its  march  from  the  sea  over  the  mountains  to  Cerro  de 
Pasco.  The  two  armies  met,  August  5,  on  the  plain  of  Junin, 
where  the  patriots  gained  a  complete  victoiy.  General  Canterac, 
commander  of  the  royalist  forces,  retired  to  Cuzco,  where  he  was 
joined  by  the  southern  army  under  Valdez.  The  patriots  under 
General  Sucre  proceeded  to  the  Apurimac  Valley.  December  9, 
1824,  the  two  armies  met  in  the  hard-fought  battle  of  Ayacucho, 
which  resulted  in  a  brilliant  victory  for  the  patriots  and  ended 
Spanish  dominion  in  America. 

Bolivar  was  made  President  of  Peru  for  life,  the  Colombian  troops 
Avere  voted  a  magnificent  reward ;  but  in  1827  Bolivar  retired  to 
Colombia.  Of  the  troublous  times  following,  uj)  to  the  war  with 
Chile,  little  need  be  said.  The  name  of  Manuel  Pardo  may  be  men- 
tioned, founder  of  the  Civil  Party  and  President  from  1872  to  1876, 
an  able  statesman,  scholar,  and  patriot,  who  was  assassinated  in  1878 
while  President  of  the  Senate. 

The  War  of  the  Pacific  broke  out  in  1879,  when  Peru,  in  accord- 
ance with  a  treaty  secretly  made  with  that  country,  went  to  the 
assistance  of  Bolivia,  after  the  Chilians  had  seized  Antofagasta,  then 
a  port  of  Bolivia,  on  account  of  a  quarrel  over  an  export  tax  on  ni- 
trate. A  noted  naval  engagement  occurred  off  the  coast  of  Iquique, 
when  the  Peruvian  ship  Huascar  under  Admiral  Grau  sank  the 
Chilian  Esmeralda  under  the  heroic  Captain  Arturo  Prat,  who  lost  his 
life  in  the  engagement.  To  his  widow.  Admiral  Grau,  with  kindly 
spirit,  sent  a  letter  of  sympathy  with  some  relies  which  Prat  had 
carried.  The  other  Peruvian  vessel,  the  Independencia,  pursuing  the 
Chilian  Covadonga,  ran  upon  hidden  rocks  and  became  a  total  wreck, 
a  misfortune  which  proved  a  death  blow  to  Peru.  For  four  months 
Admiral  Grau  kept  the  Chilians  at  bay,  but  at  last,  October  8,  he 
was  obliged  to  fight  the  two  Chilian  ironclads  at  once.  A  shell  strik- 
ing the  tower  killed  Admiral  Grau.  His  four  successors  in  com- 
mand, one  after  another,  met  the  same  fate.  Wlien  forced  to  sur- 
render one-third  of  the  entire  force  of  193  men  had  been  killed  or 
wounded.  The  coast,  1400  miles  long,  was  now  exposed  to  the 
enemy,  and  in  November,  1870.  the  Chilians  began  a  series  of  at- 
tacks, all  of  which  were  successful,  excepting  the  battle  of  Tarapaca. 


CALLAO  TO  LIMA  65 

Many  Peruvians  met  a  heroic  death,  notablj'  Bolo8:nesi  and  others 
at  Arica.  In  1881  occurred  the  battles  of  Cliorillus  and  Mirallores 
and  the  capture  of  Lima  by  the  Chilians,  who  remained  in  possession 
of  the  city  until  the  treaty  of  Ancon  was  si,',nied,  October,  1883. 

According  to  the  terms  of  this  treaty,  the  province  of  Tarapacii 
was  ceded  to  Chile,  while  Tacna  and  Arica  were  yielded  for  ten  years, 
at  the  expiration  of  which  time  the  residents  were  to  vote  whether 
they  would  continue  as  a  part  of  Chile  or  retuni  to  their  former 
allegiance.  The  fact  that  the  provinces  have  remained  under  con- 
trol of  Chile  without  any  such  vote  being  taken,  has  for  years  been 
a  cause  of  ill-feeling  between  the  two  countries,  which  at  times  have 
seemed  on  the  verge  of  war. 


CHAPTER  IX 
LIMA,  THE  CITY  OF  THE  KINGS 

Hotels.  Grand  Hotel  Maui-y,  A.  P.,  6  to  20  soles  per  day.  E.  P.. 
2  soles  up ;  Grand  Hotel,  A.  P.,  G  to  10  soles;  Hotel  Cardinal,  E.  P., 
2  soles  up.     Excellent  restaurant,  reasonable. 

Restaurants.  Jardin  Estrasburgo,  and  Marron's,  excellent,  fash- 
ionable restaurants;  Berlin,  Genuan  bome-eooking  restaurant. 

Carriage  Mates.  40  ctvs.  a  course,  for  one  or  two;  by  the  hour,  S. 
1.50. 

Post  Office  boxes  in  hotel.  Postage  rates,  Peru,  letters,  5  ctvs.; 
cards,  2  ctvs.;  United  States  and  Europe,  letters,  12  ctvs.;  cards, 
4  ctvs.     Population  of  Lima,  about  150,000. 

Chief  Points  op  Interest 

Plaza  de  Armas,  Cathedral,  Government  Palace,  Portales,  Plaza  de 
la  Inquisicion,  Senate  Chamber,  Hall  of  Congress,  Market;  Ex- 
position Palace,  Museum,  and  Park;  Paseo  Colon,  Botanical  Gar- 
den, Cristobal  Hill,  Alameda  de  Acho,  Bull  Ring.  Excursions  op 
Oroya  Railway,  and  to  Chorillos. 

The  weekly  paper,  The  West  Coast  Leader,  is  of  interest 
and  value  both  to  tourists  and  to  business  men. 

To  be  comfortably  settled  for  a  few  days  or  weeks  is  of  the 
first  importance.  Few  will  criticise  the  statement  that  the 
hotel  par  excellence  of  Lima  is  the  ]\Iaury,  often  called  the  best 
on  the  entire  West  Coast.  A  New  York  club-man  whom  I 
met  there  with  his  East  Indian  valet,  declared  that  nowhere 
else  in  the  world  had  he  found  so  excellent  a  table  at  so 
moderate  a  cost.  One  here  meets  travelers,  distinguished  and 
undistinguished,  foreign  diplomats,  and  other  resident  and 
transient  guests  from  all  quarters  of  the  globe.  With  its 
main  entrances  near  the  corner  of  Ucayali  and  Carabaya 
streets,  the  INIaury  extends  through  the  block  to  Huallaga. 
The  section  at  this  corner,  called  the  Francia  y  Ingleterra,  the 

66 


CALLAO    HARBOR — RECEIVING    SECRETARY    BOOT 


ll.A/.A    UE    ARMAS,    CATHEUllAI^ 


LIMA,  THE  CITY  OF  THE  KINGS  67 

French  and  Englisli,  was  formerly  a  separate  establishment. 
Though  now  a  i)art  of  the  .Maury  it  preserves  its  old  name, 
with  its  own  room-clerks,  and  entrance  on  Huallaga.  At  the 
corner  of  the  Plaza  de  Armas,  the  heart  of  the  city,  it  has 
many  rooms  with  balconies  looking  across  the  Plaza  to  the 
Government  Palace  and  ^Municipal  Building,  while  opposite 
the  front  is  the  side  of  the  great  Cathedral.  In  spite  of  the 
proximity  of  the  Cathedral  bells,  which  ring  oft  and  loud, 
many  pereons  prefer  this  end  of  the  hotel  on  account  of  the 
pleasant  outlook  and  the  liettcr  circulation  of  air.  It  is,  how- 
ever, quite  a  walk  througii  the  corridors  to  the  dining-rooms 
at  the  other  end,  and  some  distance  to  the  bathrooms.  So 
the  majority  prefer  the  IMaury  side,  where  the  rooms  are  more 
elegantly  furnished,  the  suites  have  larger  parlors,  a  few 
have  private  baths,  all  have  higher  prices.  The  rates  including 
meals  are  from  six  soles  a  day  up  to  twenty,  according  to  ac- 
commodations. Coffee  and  rolls  are  usually  served  in  the 
rooms  at  the  hour  desired ;  almucrzo — breakfast,  is  from  eleven 
to  two;  dinner  from  5.30  to  eight.  At  each  of  these  meals 
there  are  half  a  dozen  kinds  of  soup,  several  varieties  of  fish, 
15  to  20  hot  entrees,  10  or  12  cold  dishes,  and  several  veg- 
etables; at  breakfast,  steak,  chops,  and  eggs  in  any  form,  at 
dinner  several  roasts,  and,  most  unusual  in  South  American 
cities,  five  or  six  kinds  of  desserts.  Also  there  is  always  fruit, 
at  least  oranges,  bananas,  and  granadillas  somewhat  like  a 
pomegranate.  At  almucrzo,  strawberries  may  usually  be  had 
for  the  asking,  though  never  on  the  bill  of  fare,  while  chiri- 
moias,  sometimes  called  custard  apples,  may  be  obtained  with 
a  considerable  extra  charge,  this  fruit  being  everywhere  the 
most  expensive  variety.  On  the  street  or  at  the  market  they 
may  be  purchased  for  one-thii'd  the  price  at  the  hotel,  fi-otn 
10  to  40  ccntavos  apiece  according  to  the  size.  An  English- 
man once  complained  lli.it  the  roast  beef  and  iiiultou  wt'ro 
not  such  as  he  had  at  home,  and  he  didn't  care  for  the  other 
things,  fussed-up  dishes;  l)ut  most  persons,  like  the  Xcw 
Yorker,  rejoice  in  what  is  provitled,  at  least  for  a  reasonable 
time,  especially  if  they  have  come  from  i>lateau  or  desert  or 
from  almost  anywhere.  Tlie  sn'i'irilns,  which  ;ii'e  not  young 
ladies  but  resemble  scallops,  and  the  cr;il)s  and  lobsters,  are 
particularly  tine.     The  Maury  has  also  two  or  three  annexes 


68  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

where  rooms  may  be  secured,  and  meals  taken  as  desired.  In 
the  hotel,  too,  rooms  alone  may  be  procured,  with  meals  a  la 
carte  in  a  dili'erent  dining-room,  or  elsewhere  at  one's  option. 
An  excellent  orchestra  provides  music  of  the  best  quality ;  at 
the  Maury  from  12  to  2  daily,  and  at  the  Exposition  Restau- 
rant under  the  same  management,  in  the  Zoological  Gardens, 
from  5.30  to  11.30.  A  steam  laundry  is  connected  with  the  es- 
tablishment ;  of  course  there  are  electric  lights,  as  at  all  hotels, 
and  in  all  cities  of  any  size  throughout  the  tour.  Generally  a 
button  will  be  found  near  the  head  of  the  bed  by  which  the 
light  may  be  extinguished  after  retiring. 

The  Grand  Hotel  is  on  Iluallaga  street  in  the  next  block  be- 
yond the  French  and  English ;  similar  to  the  ]\Iaury,  with  good 
rooms  and  table  at  slightly  lower  prices,  and  preferred  by 
many.  Of  cheaper  hotels,  the  Cardinal  has  a  reputation  for 
excellent  meals  a  la  carte  at  moderate  prices;  this  being  sit- 
uated on  what  is  often  called  the  main  street,  calle  de  la  Union, 
half  a  block  from  the  Plaza.  The  Jardin  Estrasburgo,  on  the 
Plaza,  opposite  the  Cathedral,  is  a  restaurant  of  the  first 
order,  where  meals  are  regularly  served,  and  ices  and  re- 
freshments at  all  hours.  A  European  orchestra  provides  vocal 
and  instrumental  music.  Opposite  the  Palace,  under  the 
2)ortales  is  the  Confiterie  Marron.  Afternoon  tea  and  din- 
ner are  accompanied  by  pictures  from  a  cinematograph,  and 
by  orchestral  music.  All  tastes  and  purses  are  provided 
for. 

Comfortably  settled  in  a  hotel,  one  will  first  enjoy  a  stroll 
on  the  Plaza  de  Armas,  the  real  center  of  the  city,  important 
for  its  historic  associations  and  for  its  present  activities.  For 
nearly  three  centuries  the  capital  of  Spanish  South  America 
and  the  seat  of  the  Viceroys,  Lima  is  a  city  the  true  history 
of  which  surpasses  romantic  legends :  a  place  of  wonderful 
charm  to  those  who  tarry  long,  the  home  of  a  courtly,  culti- 
vated society  of  agreeable,  hospitable  people,  though  somewhat 
exclusive  withal,  as  are  the  social  leaders  generally  in  the  large 
South  American  cities.  To  be  from  New  York,  Chicago,  even 
Boston,  is  not  an  open  sesame  to  the  homes  of  Spanish  Amer- 
ican wealth  and  culture.  However,  the  passing  tourist  will 
have  brief  time  to  make  acquaintances;  the  few  Peruvians 
whom  he  may  casually  meet  are  likely  to  make  a  favorable 


LIMA,  THE  CITY  OF  THE  KlXdS  69 

impression,  except  upon  those  "who  regard  courtesy  as  a 
waste  of  time. 

Tlie  Plaza  de  Annas  or  Plaza  IMajor  was  selected  by  Pizarro 
himself  as  the  center  of  the  city.  The  site  was  well  chosen 
in  proximity  to  the  fine  harbor  of  Callao,  yet  somewhat  back 
from  the  water  for  safety  from  the  buccaneers  who  in  those 
days  infested  tlie  seas.  Althougli  at  the  foot  of  the  great 
Andes,  off -shoots  from  which  come  down  to  the  water's  edge, 
the  city  is  on  practically  level  ground ;  for  the  hills  about,  as  in 
general  all  along  the  coast,  rise  abruptly,  like  islands,  from 
a  flat  surface,  instead  of  the  whole  country  ])eiiig  liiily  and 
rolling  as  on  our  Atlantic  shore.  These  small  detached  moun- 
tains, which  make  a  pretty  and  effective  background  when 
they  are  not  concealed  by  fog,  are  largely  responsible  for  the 
disagreea])le  mist  which  in  the  winter  season  makes  the  climate 
rather  unpleasantly  damp  and  chill. 

The  chief  part  of  the  city  is  on  the  left  or  south  bank  of 
the  Rimae  River,  by  the  side  of  which  runs  the  Central  Rail- 
way from  Callao  up  to  Oroya ;  the  main  station  of  Lima, 
Desemparados,  being  one  block  from  the  Plaza.  As  is  custom- 
ary, a  pretty  garden  with  flowers,  trees,  and  shrubbery  occu- 
pies a  large  part  of  the  square,  which  has  besides  the  usual 
band  stand  a  bronze  fountain  in  the  center,  no  doubt  the  oldest 
in  America,  as  it  was  presented  to  the  city  in  1578. 

The  great  Cathedral,  on  the  southeast  side  of  the  Square, 
built  of  gray  stone  witli  two  towers,  is  the  earliest  and  largest 
in  South  America.  Although  the  Spanish  invaders  manifested 
little  of  the  spirit  of  tlie  Chi'ist  they  professed  to  worsliip,  they 
were  ardent  suppoi-ters  of  what  they  regarded  as  the  true 
faith  and  were  eager  to  establish  everywhere  the  rites  of 
their  religion.  Thus  Francisco  Pizarro,  the  cruel  and  per- 
fidious concjueror,  had  no  sooner  selected  the  site  of  the  city 
designed  to  l)e  his  capital,  and  drawn  a  plan  of  the  streets 
and  plazas  than  he  himself  laid  the  corner  stone  of  the  churcii, 
January  18,  1535.  The  first  structure,  though  five  years  in 
building,  was  naturally  of  no  grand  ])roportions.  But  Lima 
soon  I)('coming  a  iiu'li-opolilan  see  with  an  ari'lil)ishop.  it  was 
deemed  fitting  to  ])uild  a  gn'at  Cathedral.  AVith  interrup- 
tions and  changes  of  design  it  was  1G25  before  the  splendid 
edifice  was  finished  and  consecrated.     This  done  the  bones  of 


70  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

I'izarro  were  transferred  thither,  where  they  still  remain. 
After  a  little  more  than  a  century  this  building  was  laid  in 
ruins  by  the  earthquake  which  in  1746  destroyed  Callao;  it 
was  then  reconstructed  on  the  same  site,  though  with  less 
magnificence  than  before.  The  Cathedral  has  five  naves,  and 
ten  chapels  along  the  sides.  In  the  Chapel  of  the  Virgin  on  the 
left  is  a  celebrated  image,  a  gift  from  the  Emperor  Charles  V, 
and  under  a  glass  case  the  remains  of  the  Conqueror  Pizarro, 
though  their  genuineness  is  a  matter  of  dispute.  The  view  in 
the  central  nave  is  imposing.  The  choir,  said  to  be  unequaled 
in  America  and  seen  to  best  advantage  only  on  feast  days 
when  the  high  altar  is  illuminated,  is  distinguished  by  reason 
of  the  beautiful  carving  of  the  mahogany  and  cedar;  the 
pulpit  also  shows  handsome  chiseling.  In  front  is  a  Crucifix 
of  ivory  presented  by  Philip  II,  a  valuable  work  of  art.  The 
solid  silver  altar  and  candlesticks  are  noteworthy.  The  un- 
usually fine  organ  was  made  in  Belgium.  In  the  Chapel 
Arcediano,  the  Archdeacon's,  which  was  founded  in  1600  by 
Don  Juan  Velasquez  de  Obando  and  dedicated  to  Santo  Goribio 
and  other  sainted  Limanians,  is  an  original  painting  by  Murillo 
representing  Jesus  and  Veronica,  presented  to  the  church  by 
Sefior  Luna  Pizarro.  In  the  chapel  of  St.  Bartholomew  are 
paintings  of  a  celebrated  artist,  IMateo  Alexio,  who  visited  Lima 
near  the  close  of  the  sixteenth  century  and  who  is  here  buried. 
On  a  sidewall  is  the  most  famous  work  of  a  noted  artist, 
Matias  Maestro,  called  the  Consecration  of  the  Cathedral,  the 
gift  of  Seiior  Ocampo  in  1625.  In  the  chapel.  La  Purissima, 
of  especially  rich  construction,  is  the  sepuleher  of  Sefior  ]Mor- 
cillo  with  his  statue  by  a  distinguished  Peruvian  sculptor, 
Senor  Baltazar  Gavilan.  Here  too  are  fine  ivory  carvings 
representing  the  apostles,  presented  by  the  Lima  theologian, 
Dr.  Feliciano  de  la  Vega,  who  at  his  death  in  1640  was  Arch- 
bishop of  jMexico.  In  the  passage-way  connecting  the  church 
with  the  sacristy  may  be  seen  on  the  right  a  painting  of  the 
various  saints  native  to  Lima,  by  ]\Iatias  jNIaestro.  On  the 
wall  of  the  right  gallery  of  the  church,  a  painting  by  Lepiani 
represents  Christ  in  Prayer.  In  the  sacristy  are  portraits  of 
all  the  Archbishops,  a  copy  of  a  Rembrandt,  some  relics  of  the 
Inquisition,  and  a  font  of  unusual  style.  By  the  side  of  the 
Cathedral  is  the  residence  of  the  archbishop,  never  suitably 


PORTALES    AND    MTJN^rCIPAL    BUILDING 


jiir^p-^ 


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C'AI.I.i;    JIMS"    -INVIi.l    KVlhi.V     C'l       MU-ll'l.M'     l.l.'.llA 


LIMA,  THE  CITY  OF  THE  KINGS  71 

restored,  and  in  its  dilapidated  eoiulilioii  marring  tlie  beauty 
of  the  Plaza. 

On  the  northeast  side  of  the  Plaza  is  the  historic  residence 
of  the  Viceroys,  now  the  Government  Palace.  Of  the  old 
colonial  building,  the  scene  of  many  gay  and  brilliant  festivi- 
ties in  the  days  of  great  general  wealth  and  viceregal  splendor, 
nothing  remains  but  the  chapel  Avith  a  handsome  ceiling  and 
with  walls  adorned  with  sixteenth  century  tiles  reminding  of 
IMoorish  art.  No  longer  used  for  worship  it  is  a  store-house  for 
archives.  Around  the  several  patios  are  suites  used  as  offices 
of  the  various  departments  of  government.  Here  may  be 
found  the  Minister  of  Foreign  Relations,  the  jNIinister  of 
Justice  and  Education,  etc. :  also  the  apartment  occupied  by 
the  President  as  his  residence  and  for  his  offices.  In  the  State 
dining-room  banquets  are  occasionally  given  to  distinguished 
guests,  as  to  Secretary  Root.  During  the  Sessions  of  Congress, 
the  President  usually  entertains  at  dinner  the  Members, 
seriatim,  holding  an  informal  reception  after  the  dinner. 
Ladies,  so  far  as  I  am  aware,  are  never  honored  with  in- 
vitations on  these  occasions,  which  thus  diifer  from 
the  State  dinners  given  by  our  Presidents  at  the  White 
House. 

Although  the  main  entrance  to  the  patio  of  the  palace  is 
guarded  by  soldiers,  an  ordinary  person  is  permitted  to  pass 
from  the  Plaza  unquestioned.  Commonly  quiet  and  peaceful, 
on  a  day  in  INIay,  1909,  there  was  here  a  scene  of  confusion 
and  bloodshed.  By  a  simultaneous  attack  made  at  each  of  the 
three  entrances,  the  guards  were  overpowered  and  many  of 
them  slain,  the  rooms  of  the  President  were  invaded,  his  sec- 
retary was  murdered,  and  he  himself  was  seized  and  carried 
to  the  street.  Surrounded  by  horsemen  he  was  dragged  first 
one  way  then  another,  at  length  to  the  Pla/.a  de  la  liKiuisicion, 
where  with  a  revolver  at  his  head  demand  was  made  that  he 
should  sign  an  abdication.  This,  President  Leguia  with  much 
coui-age  resolutely  refused  to  do.  After  l)eing  two  hours  in 
the  hands  of  his  enemies  he  was  rescued,  safe  and  sound,  by 
soldiers  who,  tiring  upon  his  captors,  succeeded  in  taking  j)ris- 
oner  most  of  the  ringleaders.  Two  years  later  they  were  tried 
and  convicted:  ])ut  to  avert  a  proliable  insurrection  they  were 
immediately  pardoned,  when  they  were  welcomed  by  the  pop- 


72  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

ulace  as  heroes  instead  of  the  criminals  they  were.  When 
such  men  seek  to  gratify  their  personal  am])ition  at  the  cost 
of  their  country 's  welfare,  for  which  the  first  requisite  is  peace 
and  steady  constitutional  government,  if  they  received  severe 
punishment  and  reprobation  rather  than  honor,  the  attempts 
would  cease  and  stable  prosperity  would  be  assured.  An  in- 
terview with  the  President  if  especially  desired  may  perhaps 
be  secured  through  the  United  States  Minister.  His  office 
and  residence  are  in  a  garden  called  Quinta  Heeren  in  the  block 
Carmen  Alto  of  the  street  Junin,  which  passes  the  front  of  the 
palace.  The  streets,  it  should  be  said,  have  many  names,  a 
different  one  for  each  block ;  but  in  addition  to  these  local 
appellations,  which  are  very  confusing  to  strangers,  they  have 
names  belonging  to  their  entire  length,  so  that  the  block  names 
may  sometimes  be  dispensed  with. 

On  the  northwest  corner  of  the  Plaza  is  the  Municipal  Build- 
ing or  City  Hall,  containing  the  office  of  the  Mayor,  in  Lima 
termed  the  Alcalde.  Here  in  1906  Secretary  Root  was  received 
by  Mayor  Elguera  and  the  Town  Council  before  going  to  the 
Palace  to  pay  his  respects  to  the  President.  The  hall  and 
municipal  offices  are  above  stairs,  the  street  floor  being  oc- 
cupied by  shops  of  various  kinds.  Half  a  block  from  this 
corner,  dow^n  the  calle  de  Lima,  a  continuation  of  Junin,  is 
the  Post  Office,  where  notices  are  posted  of  the  opening  and 
closing  of  mails  in  connection  with  the  arrival  and  de- 
parture of  steamers,  and  of  trains  to  the  interior.  Postage 
stamps  may  be  procured  on  the  right  and  letters  registered. 
On  the  left,  letters  are  mailed  in  different  slots  according  to 
where  they  are  going,  hence  care  should  be  exercised.  After 
regular  closing  time  double  postage  will  secure  the  dispatch  of 
letters  for  an  hour  or  two  longer.  With  fast  mails  to  Panama 
but  once  a  week,  it  is  important  to  be  in  season.  There  are 
letter  boxes  also  in  the  hotels  and  on  the  streets,  from  which 
collections  are  made  by  carriers.  The  northwest  and  south- 
west sides  of  the  Plaza,  on  which  are  the  portales,  are  equally 
interesting  in  their  way.  Here  are  shops  of  great  variety,  dis- 
playing large  assortments  of  goods,  besides  venders  under  the 
arches  with  wares  spread  on  the  floor.  The  walks  are  gen- 
erally thronged  with  people,  for  along  here  are  also  clubs 
and  restaurants,  the  latter  already  referred  to.     The  Clubs 


LIMA,  THE  CITY  OP  THE  KINGS  73 

occupy  apartments  above  the  portaks.  Tlie  Union,  at  the 
corner  opposite  the  French  and  English  Hotel,  has  a  series  of 
handsome  rooms  where  balls  and  ))anquets  are  occasionally 
given  in  honor  of  distinguished  strangers  and  residents. 

The  streets  of  Lima  are  narrow,  with  the  electric  cars  run- 
ning so  close  to  the  curb  that  one  needs  to  be  rather  careful, 
especially  as  the  sidewalks  are  narrow  also.  Fortunately  most 
of  the  Imiklings  have  but  one  or  two  stories,  though  a  few  of 
the  later  erections  have  three.  Apart  from  the  Plaza,  the 
principal  street  for  shopping  is  the  calle  de  la  Union,  which 
passes  across  the  Plaza  in  front  of  the  ^Municipal  Building. 
In  the  first  two  or  three  blocks  from  the  Plaza  there  are 
drug  stores,  photographers,  jewelry  and  book  stores,  shops  of 
nullinery  and  dry  goods,  etc.,  as  on  all  the  cross  streets  near. 
The  fruit-sellers  with  little  baskets  of  strawberries  on  long 
poles,  the  milkmaids  perched  high  on  mules  or  horses  with 
great  cans  on  each  side,  the  ladies  in  manta,  the  close  fitting 
black  shawl,  or  the  mantilla  of  lace,  or  in  the  latest  Parisian 
modes,  the  cholos  in  plainer  garb,  the  soldiers,  the  policemen 
ever  ])lowing  their  whistles,  the  newsboys  and  news  women, 
the  sellers  of  lottery  tickets,  the  fine  private  equipages,  car- 
riages and  automobiles,  and  many  many  other  things  present 
variety  sufficient  to  make  an  aimless  stroll  of  continual  interest. 
A  glance  into  the  open  doorways  away  from  the  busiest  streets 
usually  reveals  a  paved  court,  sometimes  with  tlowering  jilants 
or  small  trees,  mayhap  a  fountain,  and  around  the  court  the 
main  rooms  of  the  dwelling.  A  gem  of  typical  colonial  ar- 
chitecture, the  old  historic  dwelling  on  the  calle  del  Ucayali, 
a  block  from  the  ]\Iaury,  should  by  all  means  be  visited.  It 
was  the  property  of  the  Marquis  do  Torre  Taglc  and  still  be- 
I'ongs  to  his  descendant,  Sefior  Ortis  de  Zeballos,  to  whom 
is  due  its  excellent  condition.  The  massive  stouc  doors, 
staircase,  galleries,  l)arred  doors  and  windows,  ami  the  bal- 
conies both  on  the  street  and  around  the  patio,  i)i-('scnt  line  ex- 
amples of  the  carving  of  that  period.  These  may  be  ex- 
amined  by  all.  A  wonderful  coUeetion  of  i)aintiiigs  in  the 
j)ossession  of  the  family  is  not  always  on  view.  liKpiiry  as 
to  the  jjossibility  of  seeing  it  may  be  made  l)y  those  who  are 
especially  interested.  This  extraordinary  assemblage  of  more 
than  eight  hundred  jtaiulings  of  the  classic  sclionls  contains 


74  TllK  SOU'iMI  AMERICAN  TOUR 

Avorks  of  Michael  Angelo,  Raphael,  Titian,  Correggio,  Leon- 
ardo da  Vinci,  Rubens,  Poussin,  Velasquez,  Murillo,  and 
others. 

An  important  private  collection  of  ancient  furniture,  carved 
and  inlaid  Avilh  artistic  merit,  is  the  property  of  Dr.  Javier 
Trado  y  Ugarteehe,  ]\Iinister  of  Foreign  Relations  in  the  ad- 
ministration of  President  Leguia,  and  Dean  of  the  School  of 
Law;  another  is  that  of  Don  Carlos  Watson. 

For  evening  entertainment  there  are  several  theaters,  the 
Politeama,  seating  2000,  El  Olimpo,  smaller,  and  the  Chinese. 
A  New  ]\Iunicipal  Theater  is  planned. 

If  disposed  to  take  a  morning  stroll,  one  may  walk  along 
Huallaga  street  past  the  side  of  the  Cathedral  until  he  comes, 
after  four  blocks,  to  the  largest  of  the  four  market  buildings. 
This,  called  the  Mercado  de  la  Goncepcion,  occupies  a  w^hole 
square.  In  the  second  block  from  the  Plaza  on  the  right  hand 
side  is  an  unpretentious  drug  store  of  Estremadoyro  where  for 
5  centavos  may  be  purchased  a  small  envelope  of  Persian 
powder,  very  useful  for  the  fleas.  Elsewhere  two  or  three 
times  as  much  must  be  paid  for  the  same  quantity  in  less  con- 
venient form.  At  the  end  of  this  block  is  the  fine  building 
of  the  Bank  of  Peril,  and  London.  Other  banks  of  various 
nationalities  of  Europe  will  be  observed,  but  none  of  the  United 
States.  However,  the  House  of  W.  B.  Grace,  which  will  be 
found  by  turning  to  the  right  at  the  end  of  the  first  block,  a 
little  waj'  down  on  the  left,  will  serve  the  purpose  if  one  takes 
a  draft  on  their  house,  when  letters  may  be  sent  in  their  care. 
Continuing  on  Huallaga  past  the  Bank  of  Peru  and  London, 
the  interior  of  which  is  worth  looking  at,  though  you  have  no 
especial  business  within,  you  come  to  the  fine  Market  with 
little  shops  and  cafes  along  the  front  and  sides.  AVithin  the 
large  hall  is  a  great  display  of  fruits,  flowers,  vegetables,  meat, 
butter,  eggs,  etc. ;  everything  at  very  reasonable  prices  except 
the  last  two.  Flowers  may  be  had  for  a  song,  a  bunch  of  roses 
for  20  centavos,  10  cents;  not  American  Beauties  to  be  sure, 
but  old-fashioned  tea  roses  and  others  of  various  colors,  fresh 
and  sweet.  Tuberoses,  mignonette,  heliotrope,  and  other  gar- 
den flowers  are  there  in  profusion.  How  one  would  rejoice 
at  such  opportunities  in  any  of  our  cities !  Twenty,  a  hundred 
such  markets  are  needed  in  ]\Ianhattan  alone.     Luscious  fruit 


LIMA,  THE  CITY  OP  THE  KINGS  75 

of  various  kinds  is  always  plentiful,  most  of  it  cheap.  Two 
squares  beyond  the  market  one  would  come  to  what  is  now 
called  Plazd  Uaimondi.  Facing  this  is  a  great  building  for  the 
Police  Quarters,  and  just  before  that,  one  for  the  Society  of 
Mining  Engineers.  In  this  Plaza  the  numerous  Italian  resi- 
dents of  Lima  have  recently  erected  a  monument  to  the 
famous  Italian  engineer,  Antonio  Uaimondi,  Avho  for  many 
"weary  years  wandered  over  the  great  territor}-  of  Peru,  inves- 
tigating its  mineral  resources,  and  making  topographic  obser- 
vations wliich  he  embodied  in  a  series  of  maps  on  a  very  large 
scale.  Though  not  perfect  in  every  detail,  they  are  remarkably 
accurate  in  view  of  the  difficulties  under  which  he  labored. 
One  intending  to  make  exploration  in  the  interior  should  pro- 
vide himself  with  Raimondi  maps  of  the  sections  to  be  visited, 
tiiese  being  on  sale  at  two  soles  each  at  the  large  liook  stores 
in  Lima.  Crossing  the  Plaza  to  calle  de  Junin,  the  Church 
and  Hospital  of  Santa  Ana  are  on  the  right.  Turning  at 
Junin  to  the  left,  back  towards  the  Plaza  de  Armas,  at  the 
next  corner  will  be  found  the  Casa  de  Moncda  or  ]\Iint.  This 
is  not  always  open  to  the  public  but  maj'  be  visited  on  one  or 
two  afternoons  of  the  week,  as  may  be  ascertained  by  inquiry. 
The  gold  and  silver  coins  here  made  are  of  the  finest  work- 
manship and  of  liigh  grade  metal.  The  Numisinatical  ]\luseum 
of  the  ^liiit  contains  a  splendid  collection  of  medals  from  all 
])arts  of  the  world,  as  well  as  copies  of  all  those  coined  from 
the  time  of  Independence  to  the  present. 

At  the  next  corner  on  the  left  is  the  Church  of  St.  Thomas 
and  lieyond  that  on  the  cross  street  is  the  Prison,  and  the  Cor- 
rectional School  for  ^yomen.  On  the  following  corner  of 
Junin,  at  the  right  is  the  Church  of  Caridad,  Charity,  facing 
the  Plaza  of  the  Inquisicion.  Turning  here  to  the  right  we 
find  in  construction  the  new  building  for  l)oth  Houses  of 
Congress,  while  keeping  straight  ahead  with  the  pretty  garden 
on  the  right  we  should  observe  tiie  handsome  Doric  j^ortieo 
of  the  building  long  used  as  the  Senate  Chamber,  formerly 
occupied  by  the  Tribunals  of  the  In(iuisition,  which  even  on 
our  Western  Continent  sought  to  stifle  free  thor.ght.  Tiie 
Indians,  luckily,  were  excused  from  its  kindly  ministrations, 
the  only  charity  at  that  time  extended  to  them.  The  ceiling 
of  fine  carved  mahogany  insi)ires  admiration  for  its  excellent 


16  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

workmanship  of  native  skill.  A  mahogany  table  now  used 
for  writing  the  laws  of  the  nation  was  formerly  in  service  for 
drawing  up  the  decrees  of  death.  A  noticeable  feature  of  this 
Plaza  is  an  equestrian  Htatue  in  bronze  of  the  liberator, 
Bolivar.  Sculptured  on  the  pedestal  of  white  marble  are  bas 
reliefs  representing  the  battles  of  Junin  and  of  Ayacucho. 
In  spite  of  the  thin  atmosphere  at  a  height  equal  to  that  of  the 
top  of  Pike's  Peak,  there  was  severe  and  gallant  fighting  on 
both  sides. 

One  may  return  from  here  to  the  Plaza  by  calle  Junin,  or 
going  one  block  to  the  right  and  then  to  the  left  may  pass  the 
Church  and  Plaza  San  Francisco.  This  imposing  building 
contains  in  the  sacristy  a  valuable  collection  of  paintings; 
paneled  ceilings  with  finely  carved  beams,  and  floor  of  blue 
tiles,  in  the  cloisters;  and  carved  stalls  in  the  gallery.  Fol- 
lowing the  car  track  to  the  left  one  soon  returns  to  the 
Cathedral  and  Plaza. 

Of  the  sixty-seven  churches  in  Lima  a  few  merit  a  visit. 
The  most  important  are  fortunately  near  the  centre  of  the  city. 
On  the  corner  beyond  the  Post  Office,  as  one  goes  from  the 
Plaza,  is  the  Church  of  Santo  Domingo.  The  roof  over  the 
main  entrance  is  spoken  of  as  the  richest  and  most  elaborate 
work  of  art  in  Lima.  In  the  floor  of  the  first  cloister  the  blue 
tilings  laid  in  1606  are  noteworthy.  The  collection  of  paint- 
ings in  the  vestry  includes  a  ]\Iurillo  representing  San  Antonio, 
and  a  portrait  of  Santa  Rosa  by  ]\Iatias  Maestro.  A  celebrated 
chapel  by  Fray  Martin  de  Porras  contains  a  valuable  col- 
lection of  paintings  by  Roman  Nicolette  of  the  eighteenth  cen- 
tury; fourteen  works  representing  the  twelve  Apostles,  St. 
Paul,  and  John  the  Baptist.  Especially  notable  is  a  beautiful 
marble  statue  of  Santa  Rosa,  standing  on  a  silver  pedestal 
which  is  studded  with  jewels.  Santa  Rosa,  Isabel  de  Oliva, 
born  in  Peru  in  1556,  led  a  life  so  remarkable  for  its  saintly 
purity  that  she  was  canonized  by  Pope  Clement  X,  the  only 
American  ever  distinguished  by  such  an  honor.  She  became 
patron  saint  of  the  whole  of  America,  the  West  Indies,  and  the 
Philippines,  her  festival  being  celebrated  August  30.  Her 
remains  repose  in  the  church  in  the  altar  of  Santa  Rosa,  on 
the  base  of  which  is  portrayed  in  marble  the  scene  of  her 
deathbed.     The  church  contains  also  a  silver  altar  to   Our 


LIMA,  THE  CITY  OP  THE  KINGS  77 

Lady  of  the  Rosary,  a  madonna  with  a  rosary  of  large  pearls, 
and  relics  of  Fray  IMartin  de  Porras  and  others. 

At  tlie  corner  wiiere  the  Church  of  St.  Domingo  is  situated 
one  may  turn  to  the  left,  and  after  two  blocks  on  the  ealle 
de  Camana  he  will  reach  the  Church  of  St.  Augusthi  where 
the  stone  facade  in  the  baroco  style,  the  choir,  and  the  table 
of  the  vestry  deserve  attention.  The  organ  is  called  the  finest 
in  Lima.  The  platform  of  the  ancient  chapter  room,  now  tiie 
chapel  of  the  college,  and  a  painting  of  St.  Augustin  are  of 
interest,  but  the  distinguishing  ornament  of  the  church  is  a 
remarkable  statue  in  wood  representing  Death,  the  work  of 
a  monk,  Baltazar  Gavilan,  who  it  is  said  died  from  the  sliock 
of  seeing  it  during  an  attack  of  delirium  tremens.  Twelve 
oil  portraits  on  copper  of  the  Disciples,  by  an  unknown  artist, 
are  called  excellent  in  drawing,  conception,  and  coloring. 

After  one  block  more  on  Camana,  and  then  one  to  the  left, 
the  Church  of  La  Merced  is  reached  on  the  corner  of  La  Union 
and  Ayacucho.  This  large  and  fashionable  church  has  a  high 
altar  the  front  of  which  is  silver  elaborately  worked.  There 
are  good  carvings  on  some  of  the  side  altars,  aihl  ]>aintings  of 
merit  in  the  sacristy.  Continuing  two  blocks  along  Ayacucho 
and  one  to  the  left,  one  reaches  San  Pedro,  the  church  of  the 
Jesuits,  also  fashionable.  The  wood  carvings  of  the  entrance 
doorway  and  of  the  massive  altar  are  worth  seeing,  also  its 
burnished  gold  scroll  work,  the  tiled  wainscoting,  and  the 
paintings  and  carvings  in  the  sacristy. 

These  churches  are  best  seen  during  the  forenoon,  as  in  the 
afternoon  they  are  often  closed.  Tliei-e  is  an  Auglo-Anur- 
ican  Episcopal  ChurcJi  on  the  calle  de  Carabaya  in  tlie  sixth 
block  from  the  Maury,  Pacae  226,  where  service  is  held  Sun- 
day mornings  at  ten,  others  at  varying  hours.  The  chaplain, 
Rev.  Archibald  Nicol,  lives  next  door,  Pacae  228.  At  Callao 
thoi-e  is  anotlier  An<)lo-Am<  rican  Church,  not  Episcopal,  with 
services  in  English  at  10.:?0  a.  m.  and  8.00  p.  m.,  calle 
Teatro  25. 

At  least  half  a  day  should  l)e  devoted  to  a  visit  to  the 
Palace  of  tlie  Exjiosition  which  may  be  reached  by  electric 
car,  down  tlie  calle  de  la  Union,  or  by  the  calle  de  Abancay 
three  blocks  from  the  Maury  in  the  opposite  direction,  as  well 
as  by  carriage.     Jiy  the  former  route  one  passes  the  site  of 


78  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

the  projected  Municipal  Theater,  and  the  square  in  which  the 
Penitentiary  is  located.  This  building  is  called  a  model  and 
may  be  visited  by  interested  persons  who  procure  a  i)ermit 
from  the  proi)er  official.  The  next  square  is  a  handsome 
shaded  park  called  the  Parque  Colon.  This  contains  a  monu- 
ment to  President  IManuel  Candamo,  which  was  unveiled 
Sept.  8,  1912.  On  the  farther  side  of  the  park  is  a  pretty 
building,  the  Institute  of  Hygiene,  fitted  up  with  laboratories 
of  the  latest  pattern  for  the  analysis  of  water,  foods,  etc. 

In  the  center  of  the  Plaza  where  the  cars  turn  is  the  Monu- 
ment erected  to  the  famous  General  San  Martin,  whose  name 
is  honored  all  over  South  America  as  that  of  Washington  in 
North  America,  an  equally  sincere  and  disinterested  patriot, 
a  great  general;  less  happy  in  his  later  life,  though  highly 
honored  after  his  death.  He  is  here  represented  proclaiming 
the  independence  of  Peru.  On  the  column  is  a  winged 
female  symbolizing  Glory.  This  handsome  monument  was 
presented  to  the  city  by  Col.  Lorenzo  Perez  Roca. 

The  Exposition  Palace  is  a  large  white  building  where  the 
Chamber  of  Deputies  temporarily  meets  and  the  Department 
of  Fomento  is  housed ;  with  halls  where  lectures  and  concerts 
are  occasionally  held  and  grand  balls  are  given.  It  was  the 
scene  of  two  functions  in  honor  of  Secretary  Root,  the  first 
when  he  was  incorporated  into  the  University  of  St.  ]\Iark  as 
honorary  member  of  the  Faculty  of  Administrative  and  Po- 
litical Sciences  in  the  presence  of  the  President  of  the  Republic 
and  other  officials  of  the  University  and  of  the  State.  Here, 
too,  was  given  by  the  Town  Council  of  Lima  a  magnificent  ball 
in  ]\Ir.  Root's  honor,  to  which  1500  invitations  were  issued. 
The  elegance  of  the  whole  affair,  in  the  decorations,  gowns, 
refreshments,  and  other  particulars  was  equal  to  that  of  simi- 
lar functions  in  any  part  of  the  world.  On  the  upper  floor  of 
the  building  is  the  National  Historical  and  Anthropological 
3Iiiscum,  open  from  2  to  5  p.  m.  except  on  Monday.  Over  the 
latter  section  Dr.  JMax  Uhle,  a  distinguished  German  scientist 
and  a  noted  authority  on  prehistoric  Peru,  has  long  presided. 
The  present  Director  is  Emilio  Gutierrez  de  Quintauilla.  Dr. 
Uhle  by  excavations  at  Pachacamac  and  elsewhere  greatly 
enlarged  this  collection,  probably  the  most  valuable  in  exist- 
ence in  its  own  specialty.     Some  of  the  specimens  of  pottery 


PASEO    COLON   AND    EXPOSITION    PALACE 


J.S     lili.    Ml  .-.1.1  M,    KXi'dSrnoN    PALACK 


LIMA,  THE  CITY  OF  THE  KIX(;m  79 

are  believed  to  have  been  produced  previous  to  the  Christian 
Era,  The  origin  of  the  various  artich^s  and  their  period  are 
indicated  on  the  cases.  Exceedingly  curious  and  weird  are 
many  of  the  objects,  and  even  one  who  has  no  taste  for 
archa3ological  relics  can  hardly  fail  to  be  interL-sted  in  the 
extraordinary,  sometimes  beautiful,  examples  of  pottery,  in 
the  figures  of  Indians,  in  the  mummies,  and  other  objects. 
The  examples  of  the  strange  articles  used  at  the  present  day 
by  the  Indians  in  the  remote  montana  region  equally  impress 
the  observer. 

The  relics  of  early  colonial  days,  souvenirs  of  various  battles, 
of  the  generals  of  the  War  of  Independence,  will  be  examined 
with  sympathetic  regard  by  the  tourist  who  has  some  famil- 
iarity with  Spanish  American  history.  An  Art  GaUtrij  with, 
a  number  of  historical  paintings,  and  others  of  general  char- 
acter occupies  one  corner  of  the  same  floor. 

In  a  smaller  building  to  the  northeast  is  a  permanent  indus- 
trial exhibition  which  the  specialist  only  will  care  to  study. 
Between  these  buildings  is  the  entrance  to  the  Park,  for  which 
a  fee  of  10  centavos  is  charged.  This  park  of  thirty  acres  is 
a  delightful  promenade  with  shaded  walks,  palm  and  other 
trees,  artificial  lakes,  a  kiosk,  conservatories  with  orchids  and 
various  other  plants ;  it  is  also  a  Zoological  Gardt  n.  Here  and 
there  are  cages  of  animals  of  various  kinds,  one  a  spacious 
and  lofty  dwelling  for  many  birds,  including  a  pair  of  the 
famous  condors,  which  the  tourist  is  not  likely  to  see  on  the 
journey  except  in  captivity.  Bears  and  other  animals  are  in 
other  cages.  In  1911  the  finest  pair  of  lions  that  I  ever 
chanced  to  see,  and  four  lively  cubs  excited  admiration. 
Within  the  park  at  the  left  of  the  entrance  is  an  excellent 
Restaurant  kept  by  the  proprietors  of  the  Hold  Maury,  a 
fashionable  place  to  dine.  Down  beyond  the  Zoological  (Jar- 
den,  on  the  side  where  the  electrics  go  to  Chorillos,  is  the 
Shooting  Club  of  Lima  and  fields  for  cricket,  tennis,  and  other 
sports. 

The  Avenue  on  which  tiie  Exposition  Palace  faces  is  named 
the  9th  of  December,  but  oftener  called  the  Pasco  Colon.  It 
is  the  popular  driveway,  half  a  mile  long  and  150  feet  wide, 
leading  to  the  Plaza  Bolognesi.  Lined  on  the  side  towards 
the  eitv  with  handsome  modern  residences,  it  has  along  the 


80  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

center  a  garden  with  trees,  shrubs,  and  flowers,  on  each  side 
of  a  broad  walk.  On  the  occasion  of  Secretary  Root's  visit 
there  were  additional  arrangements  for  electric  lights,  and  on 
the  evening  after  his  arrival  the  Paseo  was  brilliantly  illu- 
minated with  these,  as  well  as  by  a  splendid  disphiy  of  fire- 
w^orks.  The  Paseo  was  thronged  with  peoi)le  who  enthu- 
siastically welcomed  their  distinguished  guest. 

The  Statue  of  Columbus  on  the  Paseo  must  not  be  over- 
looked. He  is  represented  as  the  Discoverer  of  America, 
which  is  personified  by  the  Indian  ^voman  kneeling  at  his  side. 
This  was  the  model  for  the  statue  at  Colon  and  was  designed 
by  Salvatore  Revelli. 

The  Plaza  Bolognesi  is  a  spacious  circle,  a  fine  setting  for  the 
statue  in  the  center  to  Col.  Bolognesi,  who  fell  at  Arica  in  the 
war  with  Chile,  June  8,  1880.  When  asked  to  surrender  he 
replied,  ''Not  till  I  have  used  my  last  cartridge,"  and  so  fell. 
The  statue  represents  the  hero  sinking  with  a  mortal  wound, 
yet  still  holding  the  flag  of  his  country.  Around  the  base  of 
the  column  on  which  the  hero  stands  are  sculptured  in  marble 
allegorical  scenes. 

Six  avenues  are  designed  to  radiate  from  this  plaza,  one, 
towards  the  center  of  the  city,  called  the  Central,  to  be  a  con- 
tinuation of  the  calle  de  la  Union.  In  the  opposite  direction 
extends  the  Avenue  Pierola.  On  this  a  car  track  leads  out 
to  the  suburb  Magdalena,  one  of  the  pleasant  shore  resorts 
with  which  Lima  is  favored.  Between  this  and  the  Avenue 
9th  of  December  is  one  leading  to  the  Hippodrome.  The 
races,  generally  held  on  Sunday  afternoon,  are  attended  by 
large  crowds  of  fashionable  and  other  people.  The  grand- 
stand belongs  to  the  Jockey  Club,  which  has  charge  of  the 
races  and  conducts  them  according  to  general  custom. 

Some  distance  bej^ond  the  Hippodrome  is  the  School  of 
Agriculture  and  the  Sugar  Experiment  Station,  both  of  these 
institutions  well  conducted  and  doing  a  valuable  work  for  the 
promotion  of  agricultural  industry.  A  great  variety  of  plants 
is  cultivated,  and  experiments  are  made  with  soils  of  many 
kinds.  Instruction  is  given  to  a  considerable  number  of 
students. 

Proceeding  from  the  Exposition  Palace  in  the  direction 
opposite  to  the  Plaza  Bolognesi,  following  the  Avenue  Grau, 


LIMA,  THE  CITY  OF  THE  KINGS  81 

one  would  alter  a  few  blocks  pass  the  Italian  Hospital  on  the 
left,  and  a  little  farther  reach  the  tichool  of  Arts  and  Crafts 
on  the  right,  Escucla  dc  Artcs  y  Oficios,  of  which  Sefior 
Valente  is  director.  Here  are  taught  clay  modeling  and  sculp- 
ture, decorative  art  and  composition,  the  history  of  art  and 
esthetics ;  and  models  of  various  works  are  usually  to  be  seen. 
A  foundry  for  art  bronzes,  it  is  hoped,  will  soon  be  added. 
Of  still  greater  importance  are  the  courses  designed  to  pro- 
duce honest  and  capable  mechanics,  which  are  well  accom- 
plishing their  purpose. 

In  the  next  block  on  the  left  is  the  large  building  of  the 
Medical  School;  the  Baimondi  Museum  on  the  upper  floor, 
open  from  eleven  to  twelve,  has  sections  devoted  to  Botany, 
Ethnology,  Zoology,  etc.  In  the  rear  of  the  building  is  the 
Botanical  Garden,  containing  specimens  of  every  tree  and 
plant  to  be  found  in  Peru.  Owing  to  the  varied  climates  of 
the  country  arising  from  the  difference  in  altitude,  a  wonder- 
ful diversity  of  productions  results.  The  entrance  is  adorned 
with  stately  palms;  goi'geous  and  beautiful  flowers  and  shrubs 
will  be  found  within.  A  pe  tree  bears  a  strange  fruit,  W'hich, 
bursting  open  when  ripe,  shows  within  a  pretty  flower  with 
scarlet  seeds  called  the  chusia.  Cards  of  admission  are  ob- 
tained at  the  j\[edical  School. 

Continuing  along  the  avenue  one  passes  the  large  Dus  de 
]\Iayo  Hospital  and  still  farther,  on  the  Avenue  of  Circum- 
vallation,  the  Cavalry  Barracks  and  the  Arsenal  of  AVar. 

Other  objects  of  interest  are  near  the  center  of  the  city. 
The  National  Lihrary  is  on  the  calle  del  Ucayali  on  the  right 
hand  side,  at  the  end  of  the  second  block  to  the  left  or  soutli- 
east  of  the  one  on  which  the  ]\Iaury  is  situated.  One  of  the 
first  acts  after  the  inauguration  of  the  Ivepulilie,  pi-evious,  in- 
deed, to  the  final  battles  of  the  war,  was  the  creation  of  tlie 
National  Library.  On  the  17th  of  September,  1822,  it  was 
opened  to  the  public  with  a  collection  of  about  12,000  vohinies, 
many  of  which  were  of  gi'cat  value,  rnfortuiuitely,  while  the 
Chilian  army  was  in  occupation  of  Liiiui  in  ISSI,  this  library, 
then  containing  50,000  works,  was  ruthh-ssly  destroyed,  a  por- 
tion being  carried  to  Chile,  and  the  remainder  scattered  about 
the  streets  or  sold  at  auction  by  weight.  The  later  restoration 
of  the  library  was  chielly  due  to  Dr.  Kicartlo  Talma,  who  re- 


82  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

mained  its  Director  until  1912.  Dr.  Palraa  by  diligent  effort 
collected  many  of  the  old  books  and  priceless  manuscripts ; 
many  patriotic  Peruvians  made  contributions;  sympathetic 
nations,  Spain,  Argentina,  Ecuador,  the  United  States,  sent 
gifts.  A  collection  of  5000  volumes  was  presented  by  the 
Smithsonian  Institute.  In  1884  the  library  was  reopened  with 
28,000  volumes;  it  now  contains  60,000.  Still  in  its  old  loca- 
tion, a  building  earlier  occupied  by  the  College  of  the  Caciques, 
an  institution  for  the  education  of  the  descendants  of  the 
Inca  rulers,  a  new  building  is  greatly  needed  and  no  doubt 
will  soon  be  provided.  Seiior  Manuel  Gonzales  is  the  present 
director.  Among  the  treasures  of  the  library  is  an  edition  of 
Cervantes'  works  called  the  Argamosilla,  printed  from  silver 
type. 

In  the  same  building  on  the  floor  above,  are  the  rooms  of 
the  Lima  Geographical  Society,  designed  especially  to  foster 
geographical  study  and  research  in  Peru.  It  has  a  consider- 
able membership,  including  the  most  noted  scholars  and  states- 
men of  the  country ;  the  library  contains  many  valuable  works 
and  the  leading  geographical  magazines  of  the  world.  The 
Society  of  Mining  Engineers  long  had  rooms  in  this  building 
but  have  recently  removed  to  their  new  quarters  a  few  blocks 
away. 

Turning  the  corner  to  the  right  by  the  side  of  the  library 
building  one  will  find  at  the  next  corner  the  Palace  of  Justice. 
One  block  more  after  a  second  turn  to  the  right  brings  one  to 
the  calle  de  Azangaro,  the  Normal  School  for  Girls  occupying 
a  considerable  portion  of  the  block  on  the  right.  The  entrance 
is  near  the  Church  of  San  Pedro.  Four  blocks  to  the  left  down 
Azangaro,  but  fronting  on  the  calle  del  Inambari,  is  the  Uni- 
versity of  San  Marcos,  the  oldest  in  the  Western  Hemisphere, 
founded  in  1551,  almost  a  century  earlier  than  Harvard. 
Established  under  a  charter  from  Emperor  Charles  Y  and  his 
mother,  Queen  Joana,  it  was  at  first  in  the  monastery  of  Santo 
Domingo  and  under  the  charge  of  that  Order.  Twenty  years 
later  by  order  of  Philip  II  the  University  was  secularized,  and 
in  1574  it  received  the  designation  of  San  Marcos.  In  1576  a 
building  was  constructed  for  its  use  in  the  Plaza  de  la  Inquisi- 
cion.  After  two  centuries  in  this  location  it  was  trans- 
ferred to  its  present  site,  formerly  that  of  the  Jesuit  college 


8TATLK    OF    BOLIVAH,    PLAZA    UE    LA    INQULSICION' 


I'KHLVIAN    MIM.MV,     IMVl.U.snY     oK    SAN    MAKios 


LIMA,  THE  CITY  OP  THE  KINGS  83 

of  San  Carlos,  then  united  with  the  University.  Dr.  Don 
Luis  F.  VilUu-an  has  been  rector  of  the  University  since  1905. 
The  University  embraces  Schools  or  Departments  of  Law, 
Medicine,  Theology,  Science,  Philosophy  and  Letters,  and  Ad- 
ministi-ative  and  Political  Science,  in  which  a  high  standard 
of  scholarship  is  maintained ;  the  iMedical  School,  as  we  have 
seen,  occupies  a  separate  building.  The  rooms  are  grouped 
around  several  patios.  There  is  an  assembly  hall  Avith  a  hand- 
some carved  ceiling,  and  in  the  museum  are  curious  mummies. 
A  University  Review  is  published  monthly.  A  few  years  ago 
a  Centro  was  established,  somewhat  after  the  fashion  of  the 
Harvard  Union.     Women  are  admitted  to  the  University. 

The  Engineering  School  is  in  quite  another  direction  on 
the  calle  del  Callao,  four  blocks  from  the  southwest  corner 
of  the  Plaza  de  Armas.  This,  established  in  1S76,  continued 
under  the  direction  of  the  Polish  engineer,  Sefior  Eduardo 
Habich,  until  his  death  in  1911.  The  school  has  complete 
la])oratories,  and  courses  in  nnning,  civil,  electric,  and  me- 
chanical engineering;  all  of  which  in  a  country  like  Peru  are 
of  infinite  importance. 

The  fine  large  school  for  boys  in  a  splendid  building  on 
Avenue  Alfonso  Ugarte,  the  Collegio  de  Guadalupe,  well  de- 
serves a  visit. 

The  portion  of  Lima  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river  Rimae 
should  not  be  ignored.  Passing  from  the  Plaza  by  Carabaya 
street,  one  comes  to  the  fine  new  railway  station  of  Dcscm- 
parados,  completed  in  the  fall  of  1912.  After  one  block  to 
the  left  a  turn  to  the  right  leads  one  to  the  bridge  across  the 
Rimac,  the  river  recently  improved  by  being  enclosed  within 
a  suitable  channel.  So  much  water  is  drawn  off  for  irrigation 
all  along  its  course  that  little  is  left  in  the  ancient  river  bed. 
To  one  who  wishes  to  see  the  life  of  the  comm(.)n  people  tiie 
walk  affords  good  opportunity,  but  a  drive  to  the  Jar  din  dc 
Jos  Dcscahos,  the  Garden  of  the  Barefooted  Friars,  will  be 
generally  preferred.  The  garden  extends  half  a  mile  or  more 
along  a  broad  avenue.  It  contains,  besides  i)lants  and  trees, 
handsome  urns,  marble  benches,  and  twelve  statues  represent- 
ing the  Signs  of  the  Zodiac.  At  the  end  is  a  fountain,  and 
beyond,  the  ancient  Church  and  Convent  of  the  Friars  under 
the  shadow  of  the  hill,  San  Cristubal.     A  path  leads  up  from 


84  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

this  point,  l)iit  the  more  usual  route  is  farther  east.  Return- 
ing from  the  Garden,  one  may  take  the  first  turn  to  the  left, 
then  one  to  the  right  past  the  Bull  Ring,  seating  8000  spec- 
tators and  called  the  largest  in  the  New  World.  It  lies 
practically  in  front  of  the  Balta  Bridge,  a  modern  structure 
named  for  one  of  the  Presidents.  The  Bull  Ring,  said  to  he 
the  second  largest  in  the  world,  is  on  Sunday  afternoons  often 
thronged  with  spectators  to  witness  this  cruel  sport,  which 
will  douhtless  before  many  years  be  discontinued,  as  already 
at  Buenos  Aires  and  in  most  other  cities  of  South  America. 
Before  returning  by  the  Balta  Bridge,  the  Alameda  de  Acho 
on  the  right  hand  should  be  visited.  This  was  once  a  fash- 
ionable promenade  and  still  boasts  of  large  handsome  trees, 
tall  poplars  forming  three  roadways. 

It  would  be  a  pity  to  ignore  the  Cerro  or  Hill  of  San  Cris- 
tobal, which  rises  900  feet  above  the  city.  There  is  an  easy 
path  by  which  the  ascent  may  be  made,  but  for  the  benefit  of 
the  lame  and  the  lazy  an  Aerial  Tramway  has  recently  been 
established;  the  transit  requiring  8  or  10  minutes  begins  at 
Los  Baiios  del  Pueblo  near  the  Alameda  de  los  Descalzos. 
The  summit  on  a  clear  day  affords  a  delightful  view  of  the 
city,  the  irrigated  valley,  the  hills,  the  mountains,  and  the 
sea,  which  should  well  repay  the  effort  of  the  climb,  itself 
agreeable  except  to  the  incorrigibly  indolent.  More  enticing 
than  the  view  to  some,  will  be  the  opportunity  of  visiting  the 
Great  Toiver  for  Wireless  Telegrapliy,  which  rises  350  feet 
above  the  crest  of  the  hill.  It  is,  indeed,  a  triumph  for  wire- 
less. Messages  across  the  sea  seem  not  so  wonderful:  but  to 
send  them  over  mountains  and  broad  plateau,  over  or  through 
a  wall  three  and  a  half  miles  high  and  100  miles  thick  appears 
marvellous.  This  wireless  station,  one  of  the  highest  powered 
in  the  world,  has  sent  messages  not  only  to  Iquitos  on  the 
Amazon,  1030  kilometers  away,  for  which  purpose  it  was  espe- 
cially designed,  in  order  to  ensure  communication  between  the 
central  government  and  this  important  Peruvian  commercial 
outpost,  but  also  to  IManaos  in  Brazil,  2300  kilometers  (1435 
miles)  distant.  The  great  mountain  range  between  the  two 
cities  averages  18,000  feet  in  height,  while  be.yond  are  dense 
tropical  forests.  The  construction  company  did  not  venture 
to  guarantee  the  success  of  an  untried  service,  promising  only 


LIMA,  THE  CITY  OF  THE  KINGS  85 

1o  build  iin  intermediate  station  if  necessary.  The  great  suc- 
cess of  tlic  undertaking  renders  this  sui)erflunus.  Tlie  station 
at  the  other  end  is  Itaya,  two  miles  from  Ljuitos.  The  towers 
are  identical,  triangular  steel  structures,  each  weigliing  120 
tons.  They  rest  on  a  concrete  base  l)y  a  steel  l)all  point,  in- 
sulated by  thick  glass  plates.  Each  is  kept  vertical  by  means 
of  three  heavy  steel  cables  at  three  angles.  A  power  of  10 
kilowatts  is  supplied  but  7  only  are  used.  The  service  was 
inaugurated  June  16,  1912,  with  suitable  ceremonies  lx)th  at 
Lima  and  Iquitos.  President  Leguia,  other  officials  and  cit- 
izens to  the  number  of  3000,  made  the  ascent  of  the  Cerro, 
though  the  hilltop  was  not  large  enough  to  contain  all,  the 
crowd  as  it  were  slipping  over  the  edges.  After  various 
speeches  the  President  started  the  machinery.  At  5.05  a  mes- 
sage of  congratulation  was  sent  and  at  5.17  the  reply  was  re- 
ceived. Then  was  unveiled  a  bronze  tablet  bearing  the  in- 
scription in  Spanish :  ' '  This  station  was  inaugurated  in  1912. 
His  Excellency,  xVugusto  B.  Leguia,  President  of  the  Republic, 
Dr.  Jose  ^Manuel  Glarcia,  ^Minister  of  Fomento,  Dr.  Edmundo 
N.  de  Ilabich,  Director  of  Fomento.  A.  E.  Tamayo  and  K.  J. 
Ilolmvang,  engineers  in  charge  of  construction.  The  Tele- 
funken  Company,  June,  1912." 

A  monument  wliich  sliould  not  be  overlooked  by  the  tourist 
is  the  Dos  de  Mayo  standing  in  a  circle,  and  passed  by  the 
electric  cars  to  Callao.  This  monument  commemorates  the 
victory  of  I\Iay  2,  1866,  when  an  attack  of  the  Spanish  fleet 
upon  Callao  was  repelled  and  the  Spaniards  were  finally  driven 
fi-om  the  Pacific  coast.  A  column  of  Carrara  marble  75  feet 
high  is  surmounted  by  a  statue  of  victory.  Around  the  base 
are  figures  representing  the  countries  of  Peru,  Bolivia, 
Ecuador,  and  Chile. 


CHAPTER  X 

THE  SUBURBS  OF  LIMA^TIIE  OROYA  RAILWAY— 
CERRO  DE  PASCO 

Chorillos.  With  sufficient  time  at  one's  disposal  a  few  days 
may  be  pleasantly  spent  in  visiting  the  shore  resorts  near  the 
capital.  The  electric  cars  which  pass  on  the  calle  de  Abancay, 
the  third  street  southeast  from  the  IMaury,  are  the  means  of 
transit  to  I\Iiraflores,  Barranco  and  Chorillos,  all  pleasant 
places  of  residence,  though  Chorillos  is  especially  fashionable. 
The  last  named,  before  the  Chilian  war,  was  the  most  fre- 
quented summer  resort  in  South  America,  but  after  the  battle 
of  Chorillos  in  1881  it  was  completely  destroyed  by  the  in- 
vaders. Rebuilt  during  the  last  quarter  of  a  century,  it  is 
again  beautiful  with  many  charming  homes.  The  toA\Ti  is 
located  100  feet  above  the  beach  of  a  sheltered  cove,  which  is 
partly  enclosed  by  a  cliff.  A  promenade  along  the  edge  is  a 
fashionable  resort  for  tourists  and  townspeople,  to  enjoy  the 
cool  breezes,  and  the  sunset  in  the  broad  Pacific.  Close  at 
hand  an  eminence  of  2000  feet  called  JMorro  Solar  enhances 
the  beauty  of  the  scene.  A  shady  pathway  leads  down  to  the 
beach,  which  affords  excellent  bathing  with  a  moderate  surf. 
The  regular  population  of  3000,  greatly  increased  in  the  sum- 
mer, is  daily  further  augmented  by  those  who  come  for  the 
bathing  and  the  other  diversions  of  a  watering  place :  boating, 
music,  dancing,  etc.  At  the  Casino  are  held  many  fashionable 
social  affairs ;  and  the  Regatta  Club  gives  frequent  entertain- 
ments when  the  bay,  covered  with  boats  of  various  descriptions, 
presents  a  pretty  spectacle.  Worthy  of  a  visit  is  the  IMilitary 
School  here  located,  a  fine  institution  for  the  education  of 
army  officers,  and  an  excellent  training  school  for  the  Indian 
soldiers. 

Beyond  Chorillos  the  electric  cars  continue  by  a  tunnel 
through  Morro  Solar  to  La  Ilerradura,  another  bathing  resort. 

86 


THE  SUBURBS  OP  LIMA  87 

Barranco  and  Mu'aflores,  nearer  to  J^iin.i,  are  almost  continu- 
ous with  Chorillos  and  are  connected  by  pleasant,  shaded 
driveway's.  Ma<jilal<  )ia,  a  shore  resort  still  nearer  Lima,  is 
reached  by  a  dill'ereut  electric  car  line. 

A  very  popular  resort  with  a  tine  new  hotel,  the  Eden,  is 
La  Punia,  down  beyond  Callao,  whence  electric  cars,  connect- 
ing with  those  from  Lima,  for  five  ccntavos  carry  passengers  to 
the  extremity  of  tlie  sandy  point  ever  refreshed  l)y  cool  l)reezes. 
Here  the  Naval  School's  excellent  new   ])uilding  is  located. 

Ancon.  Twenty-five  miles  north  of  Lima,  on  the  opposite 
side  from  Ciiorillos,  is  xincon,  more  especially  a  health  resort, 
its  sandy  soil  and  dry  atmosphere  making  it  especially  desir- 
able for  pei'sons  witii  pulmonary  and  bronchial  atfections. 
There  is  good  bathing,  a  tennis  court,  one  or  two  hotels,  the 
Grand  said  to  be  comfortable,  and  many  cottages ;  but  it  is  less 
attractive  than  the  resorts  at  the  south.  It  has,  however,  an 
allurement  peculiarly  its  own  in  being  renowned  as  a  necropo- 
lis of  pre-historic  treasures.  Ancon  is  reached  by  a  steam 
railway  from  the  Desamparados  station  in  an  hour  and  a  half 
or  so,  and  the  ride  gives  one  a  view  of  the  genuine  unirrigated 
desert.  The  joui'ney  may  now  be  pursued  to  the  town  of 
Iluaeho,  about  90  miles  farther. 

Pachacamac.  Persons  who  are  interested  in  antiquities 
should  make  the  excursion  to  Pachacamac,  whose  ruins  are 
believed  to  antedate  any  others  in  Peru  and  to  go  back  two 
or  three  thousand  years.  The  place  is  not  accessible  by  I'ail, 
carriage,  or  boat,  yet  it  may  be  visited  in  a  single  day  by  a 
vigorous,  enterprising  person  who  is  able  to  make  suitable 
arrangements  in  advance.  The  site  of  this  aneient  sanc- 
tuaiy  and  city  is  nearly  25  miles  from  Lima,  in  the  direc- 
tion of  Chorillos.  Thither  one  should  go  by  the  earliest  morn- 
ing car,  to  be  met  there  by  a  guide  and  horses  with  which  to 
pursue  the  journey,  Dr,  I\lax  llile  made  extensive  excavations 
in  this  region.  The  ruins  are  in  the  Lurin  Valley,  the  loveliest 
south  of  Lima,  watei-ed  l)y  a  stream  smalh-r  than  the  Kimac 
but  of  constant  supply.  In  the  period  of  the  invasion  it  was 
the  more  thickly  populated  of  the  t\\<i.  AVnrs,  and  the  elVorts 
for  the  convei'sion  of  the  natives  liy  irligious  (n-ders  caused 
the  ancient  city  in  the  course  of  the  century  following  the 
Spanish  invasion  to  beconu;  a  scene  of  desolation. 


88  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

Provisions  for  a  substantial  luncheon  should  be  taken  in 
saddle  bags,  though  fodder  for  the  animals  may  doubtless  be 
procured  at  the  hacienda  near  by  of  Don  Vicente  Silva.  A 
desert  called  the  Tablada  de  Lurin  is  crossed  between  the 
Rimac  and  Lurin  valleys.  Barren  islands  are  in  view  on  the 
right  with  myriads  of  pelicans  and  other  sea-fowl.  The  desert 
sands  drift  over  the  ruins,  on  the  north  side  of  the  valley,  600 
yards  from  the  ocean.  A  few  tillandsia  plants  show  a  little 
green  in  winter.  The  hooting  owl,  the  lizard,  and  a  small  viper 
are  the  only  forms  of  life.  The  neighboring  hills  rise  150  to 
250  feet  above  the  desert.  In  the  distance  two  villages  with 
their  church  spires  may  be  seen,  Pachacamac  three  miles  back 
from  the  sea  on  the  other  side  of  the  river,  and  Lurin  near  the 
coast,  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  ruins.  To  the  south  beyond 
is  desert;  to  the  east,  45  miles  away,  the  outlying  bulwarks  of 
the  Andes  rise  9000  feet.  In  an  early  period  the  coast  for  120 
miles  from  Supe  to  Huaman  was  under  the  sway  of  Pacha- 
camac. There  are  extensive  remains  in  many  places  about, 
and  traces  of  an  ancient  road  with  a  wall  along  the  center, 
one  side  for  the  ruler  and  his  retinue,  the  other  for  common 
people,  each  section  16  feet  wide.  The  place  was  conquered 
by  the  Ineas  170  years  before  the  invasion  of  the  Spaniards, 
when  all  its  wealth  of  gold  had  already  disappeared.  The 
ancient  city,  21-^  miles  long  and  V/s  broad,  included  four 
hills,  on  one  of  which  in  the  center  of  the  town  the  Incas  later 
erected  a  temple  to  the  Sun.  The  original  sanctuary  to  the 
Creator  god,  not  to  be  confounded  with  the  Sun  god  of  the 
Incas,  stood  at  the  foot  of  a  hill  on  the  north  side  of  the  town 
nearly  on  a  level  with  the  city.  The  temple  which  faced  the 
coast  to  the  northwest  was  400  feet  long  and  180  wide  with 
terraced  sides  leading  to  a  plateau  above,  330  by  130  feet. 
There  are  rooms  supposed  to  be  for  the  reception  of  envoys, 
others  for  sacrificial  purpose.  They  were  gorgeously  decorated 
with  frescoes  of  bird  and  animal  designs,  Avith  doors  incrusted 
W'ith  coral,  turquoise,  and  crystal.  Pilgrims  who  came  a  thou- 
sand miles  with  offerings  were  obliged  to  fast  for  twenty  days 
before  entering  the  first  court,  and  a  year  before  ascending  to 
the  holier  shrine  of  extraordinary  sanctity  above.  The  ceme- 
teries naturally  furnished  many  valuable  relics,  mummies, 
bones,  and  skulls,  fragments  of  cloth,  and  a  great  variety  of 


THE  SUBURBS  OF  LIMA  89 

articles.  The  cemetery  connected  with  this  temple  was  the 
most  crowded,  though  ])urial  here  was  reserved  lor  princes 
and  i)ilgrims  who  brought  rich  oll'erings.  ^lany  objects  have  a 
strong  resemblance  to  those  of  Tiahuanaco.  A  slab  of  Chavin 
de  Huantar  and  a  richly  ornamented  poncho  at  Ancon  are  of 
similar  style.  It  is  estimated  tliat  there  were  from  60,000  to 
80,000  graves  here,  some  in  open  cemeteries,  some  in  dwellings, 
besides  those  in  the  temple.  JMost  of  these  were  rifled  ages  ago. 
This  is  thought  to  be  a  seat  of  the  earliest  civilization  of  the 
coast,  perhaps  extending  to  Ecuador,  while  the  Chimu  culture 
either  descended  from  it  or  was  influenced  by  it.  The  city  wall 
was  from  11  to  13  feet  high  and  8  feet  thick.  There  was  an 
inner  as  well  as  an  outer  wall.  The  streets  were  13  to  16  feet 
wide.  There  were  large  detached  edifices,  resembling  ruins 
at  Iluatica  near  Lima,  and  one  group  of  crowded  buildings. 
The  term  Pachacamac  is  of  Quichua  origin,  the  earlier  name 
being  ditl'erent,  perhaps  Irma  the  same  as  Wiraqocha.  The 
Sun  temple  half  a  mile  from  the  sea  is  on  a  terraced  rocky 
height  a  mile  and  a  quarter  in  circumference;  but  it  does 
not  compare  with  the  I\Iexican  pyramid  Cholula.  Tlie  rooms 
may  be  traced,  and  the  stairway  with  steps  four  inches  high 
and  one  foot  four  inches  wide.  A  convent  for  the  Sun  maid- 
ens, accommodating  two  hundred,  fronts  the  green  fields. 
The  cemetery  on  the  southeast  terrace  of  the  Sun  temple  shows 
that  all  were  women  who  had  been  strangled  in  obvious  sac- 
rifice ;  thus  suffered  also  many  children  of  all  ages  for  the  pro- 
pitiation of  their  cruel  deity. 

The  Oroya  Railway.  AVhatever  else  may  be  omitted  from 
one's  i)rograiiiiii(;  of  sightseeing  in  Peru,  a  journey  over  the 
Oroya  road  should  on  no  account  be  missed.  Long  enjoying 
the  reputation  of  the  highest  railway  in  the  world,  it  affords 
an  opportunity  to  climb  with  ease  in  a  few  hours  to  a  heigiit 
as  great  as  that  of  the  summit  of  ]\Iont  Plane,  to  behohl 
scenery  of  wonderful  grandeur,  and  a  historic  region  of 
remarkable  mineral  wealth,  the  second  of  the  three  great 
longitudinal  divisions  of  Peru.  Fartiier  on,  with  a  lit- 
tle more  trouble,  one  may  most  conveniently  obtain  a 
glimpse  of  the  third  and  by  far  the  largest  of  Peru's 
three  natural  divisions;  as  yet  thinly  i>eupled  and  lit- 
tle  known,    but    ultinuitely,    perhaps,    to    prove    tlie    richest. 


90  TIIK  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

The  practically  rainless  coast  region  from  50  to  100  miles 
wide,  all  desert  except  where  irrigated,  we  have  already 
seen.  Next  comes  the  sierra  district  ot"  mountains  and  table- 
land, from  one  to  three  hundred  miles  wide,  where,  beyond 
the  Coast  Range,  there  is  plenty  of  rain  and  snow.  Varying 
in  height,  width,  and  in  the  number  of  parallel  mountain 
chains,  the  greatest  altitude  is  in  the  southern  and  central 
portions,  decreasing  north  of  7°  S.  Lat.  The  lofty  snowclad 
mountains,  the  multitude  of  lesser  peaks,  the  lakes,  small  and 
large,  the  countless  streams,  the  delightful  valleys,  the  deso- 
late plateau  sometimes  called  the  f)una,  cut  by  narrow  gorges, 
present  a  marvellous  variety  of  scenery,  climate,  and  produc- 
tions. Here  are  two-thirds  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  country. 
The  forest  region  on  the  eastern  slope  "of  the  mountains  with 
the  lowlands  beyond,  all  called  the  montana,  is  at  first  won- 
derfully beautiful  with  soft,  genial  climate,  though  below  an 
altitude  of  2000  feet  it  becomes  rather  warm,  in  a  few  spots 
unhealthy. 

By  the  Oroya  Railroad  a  great  elevation  is  attained  in 
fewer  hours  than  can  be  duplicated  elsewhere  in  the  world 
except  in  balloon  or  aeroplane.  Indeed,  the  time  of  the  ascent 
is  so  brief  that  some  persons  suffer  from  the  sudden  change 
in  the  pressure  of  the  atmosphere.  This  fact  has  given  rise  to 
alarming  representations,  on  the  part  of  many  native  and 
foreign  residents,  of  the  danger  involved  in  the  journey,  so 
that  many  tourists  are  frightened  out  of  the  excursion  to 
whom  it  would  be  a  genuine  delight.  The  truth  is  that  of 
the  thousands  who  each  month  go  over  the  road  the  majority 
suffer  from  soroche,  mountain  sickness,  not  at  all,  or  with  little 
and  temporary  discomfort.  A  slight  headache  is  common;  it 
may  be  severe,  or  accompanied  by  nausea  and  vomiting.  A 
few  have  become  dangerously  ill  and  deaths  have  occurred, 
as  on  Pike's  Peak.  Two  classes  of  people  should  not  take  the 
risk,  those  with  weak  hearts  and  those  who  are  both  stout  and 
full  blooded.  Persons  merely  delicate  in  a  general  way  are 
less  likely  to  suffer  inconvenience  than  some  vigorous  athletic 
persons.  One  doubtful  about  his  heart  should  have  it  ex- 
amined. Apprehensive  persons  who  would  be  sure  to  avoid 
trouble  may  get  off  at  Matucana,  and  a  day  or  two  later  com- 
fortably pursue  the  journey.     It  will  be  easier  for  every  one 


THE  OROYA  RAILWAY  91 

to  go  the  day  previous  to  Chosica  to  spend  the  night,  thus 
avoiding  an  unreasonably  early  start  in  the  morning.  Ordi- 
nary prudence  may  suggest  that  one  sliould  be  careful  not  to 
over-eat  the  day  before,  and  be  very  abstemious  on  the  trip, 
especially  as  to  alcoholic  liquors.  At  the  highest  points  one 
should  move  slowly  or  not  at  all.  A  brisk  walk  may  produce 
dizziness  or  worse. 

The  Central  Railw^ay  of  Peru,  a  standard  gauge  line,  was 
begun  in  1870  by  the  American  financier,  Henry  ^leiggs,  and 
completed  to  Chiela,  88  miles  from  Callao,  in  1S76.  On 
account  of  the  troubles  resulting  from  the  Chilian  War  it  did 
not  reach  Oroya  until  1893.  For  some  years  this  was  the 
terminus  of  the  road  and  in  one  sense  is  so  still,  as  the  natural 
continuation  would  be  east,  over  to  the  tnontana  country. 
Tiiere  are,  however,  branches  in  two  different  directions,  north 
and  south;  the  former,  an  American  line  of  the  same  gauge 
to  Cerro  de  Pasco,  the  latter,  a  part  of  the  Central  system 
owned  by  the  Peruvian  Corporation,  now  open  to  Huancayo 
and  being  gradually  extended  to  the  southwest,  ultimately  to 
reach  Cuzco,  where  it  will  connect  with  the  Southern  Railway 
managed  by  the  same  corporation.  Both  of  the  hranclu  s  are 
on  the  line  of  the  Pan  American  Railway,  by  which  it  will 
some  day  be  possible,  perhaps  within  a  decade,  certainly  in 
two,  to  go  l)y  rail  from  New  York  to  Buenos  Aires,  a  wonder- 
ful journey  through  ever  changing  and  delightful  scenes.  By 
the  time  these  250  miles  from  Huancayo  to  Cuzco  are  finished, 
which  should  be  by  1918,  all  the  southern  part  from  Lima  to 
l>uenos  Aires  will  be  ready,  as  Argentina's  poi-tion  is  now 
<'()iiip]e1e  and  Bolivia's  will  be  finislu'd  soon.  The  section  from 
())uito  to  Panama  will  linger  longest.  When  finished,  the  road 
in  my  opinion  will  be  a  far  greater  bond  of  uniim  between 
North  and  South  America  than  the  Panama  Canal. 

The  Oroya  Railroad  follows  the  Riiiiai;  Valley  up  to  its  cul- 
minating point,  with  an  occasional  detitur  into  a  side  canon 
to  gain  additional  height.  It  was  a  man  of  courage  and  large 
ideas  who  forty  years  ago  planned  t(t  climb  with  the  iron  horse, 
instead  of  the  ancient  buri-o  and  llama,  the  steep  and  lofty 
wall  which,  rising  in  its  lonu  r  points  to  a  height  of  from  14,000 
to  17,000  feet,  stretches  for  1000  miles  along  the  coast  of  Peru 
within  100  miles  of  the  sea.     With  an  average  grade  of  four 


92  TTTE  ROriTTI  AMERICAN  TOUR 

per  cent  it  was  the  second  road  from  the  Pacific  to  cross  the 
continental  divide,  tiiougli  it  still  remains  to  be  continued,  as 
Meiggs  planned,  down  to  a  point  open  to  steam  navigation  on 
one  of  the  l)ranches  of  the  Amazon. 

Setting  out  on  this  trip  from  Lima,  one  must  rise  early,  as 
the  train  leaves  the  Desamparados  Station  at  6,50  a.  m.,  Mon- 
day, Wednesday,  and  Friday.  By  strenuous  insistence  the 
night  before,  you  may  be  able  to  have  coffee  and  rolls  brought 
to  your  room  before  your  departure ;  but  if  you  fail,  a  ten 
minutes '  halt  at  Chosica  at  half  past  eight  affords  opportunity 
to  repair  the  omission. 

The  lower  part  of  the  Rimac  Valley  has  an  apparently 
level  floor  of  considerable  breadth,  with  vegetation  of  a  sub- 
tropical character,  irrigation  affording  an  ample  w'ater  supply. 
At  first  banana  groves  and  fields  of  sugar-cane  are  numerous ; 
patches  of  Indian  corn  and  alfalfa  continue  far  up  the  canon. 
The  view,  for  a  short  distance  somewhat  open  among  isolated 
hills,  narrows  as  we  enter  a  genuine  valley  with  steep  and 
ever  higher  walls,  their  slopes  thickly  terraced  and  bearing 
remains  of  ancient  highways  and  villages,  evidence  of  a 
formerly  far  greater  population  than  now.  After  much  wan- 
dering among  the  ruins  near  Chosica,  Professor  Solon  I. 
Bailey  estimated  an  earlier  number  of  6000  inhabitants,  where 
now  there  is  one-tenth  of  that  number. 

Chosica.  This  town,  at  train  time  a  busy  place,  is  growing 
rapidly  since,  with  several  daily  trains,  it  has  become  a  suburb 
of  the  capital  25  miles  distant.  It  is  especially  a  winter  resort, 
as,  located  just  beyond  the  edge  of  the  fog  bank  or  cloud  which 
in  that  season  hangs  over  the  coast,  it  has  plenty  of  sunshine. 
It  is  much  patronized  by  those  natives  and  foreigners  who 
find  the  chilly  dampness  from  May  to  October  rather  trying 
to  their  health.  The  Gran  Hotel  de  la  Estacion,  close  to  the 
station,  affording  comfortable  rooms,  is  the  best  place  to  stay 
over  night.  On  the  opposite  side  of  track  and  river  are  many 
pleasant  dwellings  in  pretty  gardens  and  another  hotel, 
rather  a  Sanatorium,  fitted  up  M'itli  all  modern  appliances 
such  as  sun  rooms,  electric  apparatus  for  baths,  and  many 
other  devices  to  aid  the  semi-invalid  or  debilitated  to  recover 
his  strength.     In  the  season,  Chosica  is  served  with  three  daily 


THE  OROYA  RAILWAY  93 

trains  each  way,  inelnding  an  express  with  pai'lor  car  in  imo 
hour. 

Above  Chosica  the  scenery  becomes  wilder,  the  vaHey  nar- 
rower. The  fall  of  the  Rimac  is  so  rapid  as  not  only  to  compel 
many  curves  and  V's  but  to  make  an  incursion  into  a  side 
valley  desirable.  Thus  the  road  goes  half  a  mile  up  the  Ver- 
rugas Gorge  which  it  crosses  by  the  highest  bridge  on  the  road, 
225  feet,  with  a  length  of  575,  returning  on  the  other  side  to 
the  Rimac  at  a  considerably  greater  elevation.  Frequently 
the  floor  of  the  Rimac  Canon  has  room  only  for  the  rushing 
stream.  The  road  passes  high  up  on  the  slope,  or  through  one 
of  the  sixty-five  tunnels.  JMany  times  the  river  is  crossed; 
sixty-seven  bridges  may  be  counted.  At  one  point  the  side 
walls  are  so  precipitous  that  it  was  necessary  to  lower  M'ork- 
men  from  the  top  of  the  cliff  above.  Sitting  in  a  swing  they 
cut  footholds  in  the  rock  preparatory  to  the  beginning  of  the 
work.  Some  of  the  cliffs  are  more  than  a  third  of  a  mile  in 
perpendicular  height. 

Matucana.  Whenever  the  valley  broadens  out  there  is  a 
town,  as  at  the  breakfast  station,  i\Iatucana,  which  at  an  alti- 
tude of  7788  feet  affords  a  meal  of  several  courses  at  the  price 
of  one  sol.  The  hotel  furnishes  comfortable  accommodations 
for  those  who  think  it  wiser  to  take  the  climb  in  instalments, 
or  for  any  with  arclui'ologieal  tastes  who  may  like  to  investigate 
some  ruins  a  few  miles  down  the  valley  on  an  eminence  rising 
from  the  north  side  of  the  river.  The  excursion  may  be 
made  from  ]\ratucana  in  a  long  day  on  horsel»ack  with  a  good 
horse  and  guide,  even  on  foot  by  one  so  inclined.  The  remains 
are  of  especial  interest  on  account  of  a  theory  that  they  are 
relics  of  a  Pygmy  City;  that  the  little  people  once  its  inhabit- 
ants were  expelled  by  ruthless  invaders  and  tied  ovi-r  the 
mountains  into  the  Amazon  basin.  Fortifications,  house  walls, 
and  subterranean  chambers  still  exist,  the  small  si/e  of  the 
rooms,  the  doorways  three  feet  high,  being  adduced  as  evidence 
in  favor  of  the  little  people.  Others  believe  tlie  ruins  are  those 
of  an  ordinary  ancient  fortress. 

Beyond  ]\Iatucana  the  scenery  becomes  still  grander.  The 
walls  a])0ve  sometimes  look  dangerous  with  overhanging  rocks, 
or  with  boulders  half  out  of  a  steep  earth  slope,  appearing  just 


H  TUK  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

ready  to  roll  down.  Slides  occasionally  occur,  especially  in 
the  rainy  season,  but  accidents  are  rare ;  for  going  up  it  is  easy 
to  iiiako  a  sudden  pause,  and  coming  down  a  hand-car  goes 
ahead  of  i)assenger  trains  to  make  sure  that  the  track  is  clear. 
Bridges  and  tunnels  are  the  order  of  the  day,  gorges  and  cliffs, 
at  last,  shining  mountains.  The  Gorge  of  Infernillo  (Little 
Hell),  black  and  deep,  you  are  whisked  across  in  a  moment, 
and  from  one  tunnel  into  another.  Tamboraque,  the  first  small 
mining  town,  is  really  in  the  Sierra.  Rio  Blanco  and  Casa- 
palca  farther  on  are  important  smelting  centers,  the  last  above 
13,000  feet.  Long  before  this  it  has  grown  cold  and  wraps  are 
in  order,  furs  perchance  not  amiss,  good  woolen  underwear 
desirable.  Chicla,  a  considerable  place,  reached  before  Casa- 
palca,  is  notable  for  having  five  parallel  tracks  one  above 
another,  curves,  tunnels,  and  two  V's  being  required  to  climb, 
by  three  miles  of  track,  500  feet  in  a  short  distance  up  the 
valley.  At  Ticlio  there  may  be  a  chance  for  tea.  One 
venturing  from  the  car  should  here  step  slowly  and  care- 
fully if  he  would  avoid  a  slight  ringing  in  the  ears. 
One  not  feeling  perfectly  well  is  wiser  to  let  some  one 
else  bring  the  tea.  A  bottle  of  salts  of  ammonia  should 
be  at  hand  in  case  of  headache  or  vertigo,  and  fresh  air 
may  be  desirable.  A  short  stop  is  made  just  before  entering 
the  Galera  Tunnel,  4000  feet  long.  On  the  right  at  the  en- 
trance of  the  tunnel  is  a  rounded  brown  hill  top,  IMonte 
Meiggs,  often  without  snow  though  17,575  feet  above  the  sea. 
This  altitude  is  confused  by  many  with  that  of  the  railroad, 
about  2000  feet  lower;  for  which  the  manner  of  printing  the 
time-table  may  be  responsible.  East  of  the  continental  divide 
the  fine  snow  peaks  and  glaciers  are  in  striking  contrast  to 
the  bareness  in  the  dry  season  on  the  coast  side.  Beyond  the 
snow  mountains,  the  scenery  diminishes  in  grandeur  to  Oroya, 
12,050  feet,  where  the  train  is  now  due  about  3.30.  An  ob- 
servation car  is  greatly  to  be  desired  on  this  ride.  If  the 
conductor  can  be  persuaded  to  let  you  stand  on  the  rear  plat- 
form of  the  last  ear,  this  on  a  regular  train  is  the  best  position 
available.  An  open  freight  car  now  affords  the  finest  pos- 
sible outlook,  but  most  persons  will  prefer  a  more  comfortable 
seat  with  diminished  view.  From  the  station  Ticlio,  altitude 
15,665  feet,  the  highest  point  on  the  main  road,  there  is  a 


UN    TUt    i)Ul)VA    UAILNSAV 


CERRO  DE  PASCO  95 

short  branch  line  to  tlie  mining  town  Moroeocha,  beautifully 
situated  among  lakes  and  glaciers,  this  branch  crossing  the 
divide  at  15,865  feet,  a  trifle  higher  than  INIont  Blane,  and 
absolutely  the  highest  point  in  tlie  world  now  reached  by 
rail.  Tlio  gi-andeur  of  the  varied  scenes  on  the  wonderful 
Oroya  Railway  baffles  all  description  and  must  be  seen  to  be 
realized  in  the  smallest  degree.  For  those  who  are  unable  to 
devote  the  two  days  necessary  to  enjoy  the  entire  trip,  it 
is  sometimes  possible  to  make  a  Sunday  excursion  part  way 
up  the  valley  to  Rio  Blanco,  20  miles  above  ]\Iatucana,  re- 
turning the  same  afternoon;  much  better  than  nothing,  but 
with  a  loss  of  the  more  splendid  scenes  above.  At  Oroya 
there  are  two  hotels,  the  Junhi  and  the  Grand,  with  little  to 
choose  between  them.  No  luxuries  are  provided ;  a  fair  dinner, 
a  bed,  and  morning  coifee  are  supplied ;  but  more  fortunate 
are  those  who  have  friends  at  court  and  are  entertained  by 
some  of  tlie  railway  officials.  At  Oroj'a  one  may  have  his 
first  sight  of  llamas,  the  ancient  burden  bearers  of  Peru, 
dignified,  graceful  animals,  when  moving  with  their  ordinary 
slow  walk,  ])ut  not  when  startled  into  a  run.  Be  cautious 
about  making  free  with  them,  as  if  they  resent  your  advances 
they  an;  liable  to  spit  in  your  face,  though  they  do  not  look 
as  if  they  could  be  so  rude. 

Those  Avho  are  making  the  South  American  Tour  iu  a 
leisurely  manner,  or  who  have  an  eye  to  business,  may  not 
pause  at  Oroya,  but  changing  cars  may  continue  noi-tji  the 
same  day  to  Cerro  de  Pasco,  or  after  a  night  in  Oroya  may 
pursue  the  railroad  journey  southward  to  Iluancayo,  or  may 
on  horseback  go  over  another  mountain  range,  then  down, 
down,  to  Tarma,  La  Pierced,  and  tlie  montnua  count i-y. 

Cerro  de  Pasco  is  reached  by  a  journey  of  about  00  miles 
over  a  generally  hilly  or  rolling  countiy,  with  few  high  moun- 
tains visible  and  those  afar  of¥.  Lake  Junin  is  jjassed  ])e- 
fore  (lai'k,  a  resort  of  ducks  and  other  wild  fowl,  hence  a 
field  of  sj)ort  foi-  those  fond  of  game.  Here,  be  it  remembered, 
was  the  next  to  the  last  liattle  of  the  War  of  Independence; 
and  the  soldiers  in  those  days  did  not  come  up  in  cars  either. 
Indians  abound  at  the  stations  along  the  road,  (^uiehuas.  dif- 
fering little  from  their  ancestors  of  400  years  ago.  The  town 
of  Ceri-o  is  reached  about   f)..'iO  p.   m.,   but  as  a  dining  car 


96  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

is  attached  to  the  train  one  is  well  fed  at  a  seasonable  hour. 
The  best  if  not  the  only  hotel  in  the  place  is  the  Univctso 
on  the  main  plaza  of  the  town,  to  which  tlie  stranger  will  need 
a  guide,  as  the  station  is  on  the  outskirts  of  the  old  city. 
The  hotel  is  not  nuich  to  boast  of,  but  the  night  I  spent  there 
was  perfectly  comfortable.  Again,  if  one  has  friends  at  court 
among  the  officials  of  the  Mining  Company  he  is  lucky,  but 
naturally  they  cannot  entertain  all  tourists.  The  place  is 
of  exceptional  interest  as  one  of  the  highest  raining  camps 
of  any  size,  and  the  highest  town  of  any  importance  in  the 
world.  There  are  at  least  8000  people  here  at  an  altitude 
of  about  14,300  feet.  The  Cerro  de  Pasco  Mining  Company, 
composed  of  half  a  dozen  or  more  well  known  American 
millionaires,  has  spent  it  is  said  towards  $30,000,000  in  the 
purchase  and  development  of  property  here  and  at  Morococha, 
in  building  the  railway  from  Oroya,  in  erecting  a  large  smelt- 
ing plant  nine  miles  from  Cerro  with  buildings  for  employees, 
on  coal  mines,  and  on  other  things  essential  to  a  great  property. 
In  earlier  days  these  mines  were  worked  for  silver,  but  now 
copper  is  the  chief  production.  Recently  an  average  of  400,- 
000  lbs.  98  per  cent  pure  has  been  turned  out  from  the  smelter 
each  month.  The  privilege  of  visiting  the  mines  is  accorded 
to  few,  but  all  may  observe  the  great  open  pits  resembling 
quarries,  several  hundred  feet  deep,  where  the  surface,  under- 
mined years  ago  by  great  tunnels  and  chambers,  at  last 
caved  in.  The  titanic  forces  of  nature  by  some  mighty  effort 
here  cast  upward  a  wonderful  mass  of  minerals,  gold,  silver, 
copper,  etc.,  not  in  veins,  but  in  chunks.  This  has  been 
called  the  richest  copper  deposit  in  the  world,  but  others  dis- 
pute the  claim.  Vanadium  is  one  of  the  various  minerals 
found  not  far  away.  The  town  with  its  many  Indians,  Peru- 
vians, and  Americans  is  a  curious  place  on  this  great 
plateau  from  50  to  100  miles  wide,  a  plateau  diversified  by 
hills,  fringed  by  distant  mountains,  and  cut  by  occasional 
caiions,  from  which  fruit  and  vegetables  are  brought  for  the 
sustenance  of  the  dwellers  above.  It  is  possible  to  go  on  by 
train  from  Cerro  to  Goyllarisquisga,  26  miles  farther,  on  the 
edge  of  a  canon  commanding  a  fine  view"  of  the  great  moun- 
tain, La  Yiuda,  believed  by  some  to  exceed  Aconcagua  in 
height,     A  concession  has  recently  been  granted  by  the  Peru- 


PLAZA,    CERRO    I>E    PASf'O 


NKAH     lilt.    .-lOLUCfc    Ol-     iUl.    AM...;  ..,    i^^l.\.li^.-.uS; 


TO  THE  A:\IAZ0N  basin  97 

vian  Government  to  ^Ir.  Alfred  ^leCune,  now  transferred  to 
the  Amazon  Pacific  Co.,  to  build  a  railroad  from  Goyllaris- 
•  juisga,  down  to  Puca  Alpa  on  the  I'eayali  Kiver,  a  point  four 
tlays  from  Iqiiitos.  Operations  have  commenced.  An  im- 
mense amount  of  rich  territory  will  be  opened  up  by  this 
road,  fine  grazing-  and  agricultural  lands,  and  rubber  counti-y 
below.  Ultimately  the  town  (ioyllarisquisga  will  be  connected 
by  rail  with  Recuay,  the  entire  line  from  Oroya  forming  a 
link  in  the  Pan  American  railroad.  From  Cerro  or  the 
Smelter,  a  three  days'  horseback  ride  would  bring  one  to  Lake 
Santa  Ana,  the  source  of  the  IMarafion  or  Amazon.  A  mile  or 
two  below  the  Smelter  is  a  valual)le  silver  mine  and  smelter 
in  operation,  property  of  Senor  Fernandini. 

Huancayo.  The  trip  from  Oroya  south  to  Iluancayo  is 
through  a  valley  of  somewhat  lower  elevation,  hence  of  more 
cheerful  character.  The  town  of  Jauja  on  this  line  is  con- 
sidered an  excellent  place  for  consumptives,  for  whom  the 
coast  is  much  too  damp.  Huancayo,  78  miles  from  Oroya, 
is  now  the  terminus,  but  work  has  been  pushed  for  20  miles 
farther  and  ere  long  Ayacucho  will  be  reached,  the  scene 
of  the  final  battle,  compelling  the  Avithdrawal  of  the  Spaniards. 

Tarma.  The  expedition  to  Tarma  and  the  montana  may 
attract  a  few  who  can  spare  a  week  or  ten  days  for  this 
delighlful  trip.  Animals  to  Tarma  may  be  obtained  at  Oroya 
for  5  or  6  soles  each.  With  saddle-bags,  no  baggage  animals 
are  needed.  It  is  well  to  set  out  from  Oroya  by  9  a.  m., 
in  order  to  i)ass  over  the  cumhrc  before  the  afternoon  breeze 
begins  to  blow  and  to  arrive  in  good  season  at  Tarma,  a 
])retty  town  at  an  altitude  of  about  10,000  feet.  Tiierc  are 
two  hotels  where  lodging  may  be  had  at  modest  prices,  and 
at  the  Umberto  horses  may  be  engaged  for  the  ride  to  La 
.Merced.  Luncheon  nuist  be  taken  from  Oroya,  l)ut  beyond 
Tai-ma  there  are  plact'S  on  the  road  where  it  may  be  procured. 
On  the  cumhrc  2000  feet  above  Oroya,  all  is  brown  and  bare, 
but  at  tlie  farther  edge  of  the  l)road  pass  there- is  a  line  view 
of  distant  mountains  and  valleys.  Not  far  down,  green  will 
api>ear,  pivsenlly  a  house  or  two,  a  pretty  stream,  a  few 
calla  lilies.  From  Tarma  onwai-d  there  are  plenty  of  trees, 
growing  as  it  wei-e  of  their  own  aeeoid,  a  pleasing  ciiange 
from    the    plateau    and    the    western    side.     The    next    day 


98 


THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 


luDclieoii  is  at  Palca,  aud  before  night  one  should  reach 
Iluaeapistana,  40  kms.,  a  delightful  spot.  The  third  day  one 
has  luncheon  at  San  Ramon  and  spends  the  night  at  La 
Merced,  135  kms.,  which  with  an  altitude  of  less  than  .'JOOO  feet 
is  really  in  the  tropical  country.  The  delights  of  this  journey, 
the  beautiful  canon  lined  with  verdure,  is  a  contrast  indeed  to 
the  bare  sublimity  of  the  other  side.  The  road  is  excellent 
pvpopi^ip  nnp  plapo  iH^twem  Oroya  and  Tarjna^  Thcii&Iapfel 
romantic  tunnelfiL_iine  susiocnsiou^  bridges,  swiiiging^  but  that 
doesno  harm 


ivei  experience.  This  road 
Is  now  the  4iighway  from  Lima  to  the  Atlantic  by  way  of 
Iquitos,  and  at  the  moment  it  is  probably  the  most  com- 
fortable route  to  cross  the  center  of  the  continent.  With  good 
Jvick_the  JQon^a^y  from  Lima  to  Iquitos  may^^be_made  in  16 
days,  nineof  these  on^jiorseback  frojn  Oroya  jto  Puerto 
IHiSSupT'aneda? 
ol'  six  d'Sys' 


_bycanoe_toIEiiHQ^Grmird  in  five 

JitPBTTi    lanpr'h    in   TrpitAS       At  thlS   city  ^t  15,- 


^people  a  larger  boat  may_be_takenJoiL T^ra^r  INew  York. 
"BTfEthat  is  another  story.  By  way  of  Cerro  de  Pasco  and 
Iluanuco,  the  journey  from  Lima  to  Iquitos  is  ten  days.  A 
few  hours  beyond  La  Merced  is  the  Perene  coffee  plantation 
belonging  to  the  Peruvian  Corporation.  In  this  section  land 
is  cheap,  and  with  the  mercury  always  in  the  eighties,  one  so 
inclined  may  be  happy,  leading  the  simple  life.  The  Indians 
about  here  are  fine  looking,  whiter  than  many  of  the  Spanish, 
and  are  quiet,  peaceful  people ;  though  others  beyond  are  so 
fierce  that  it  is  unsafe  to  pass  through  their  territory.  Hav- 
ing been  ill-treated  by  white  rubber  gatherers  and  some  other 
so-called  civilized  men,  they  allow  no  whites  among  them. 


CHAPTER  XI 
THE  SOUTHERN  RAILWAY— AREQUIP A 

From  the  charm  of  the  Rimac  Valley  and  the  City  of  the 
Kings  it  is  difficult  to  escape,  but  on  a  four  months'  tour 
not  more  than  ten  days  can  be  spared  for  this  region,  fourteen 
at  the  outside.  To  Mollendo,  the  next  place  of  debarkation, 
the  voyage  may  ];e  pursued  by  any  one  of  the  three  lines  of 
steamers  previously  mentioned.  If  a  through  ticket  to  this 
port  or  to  Valparaiso  has  not  been  purchased,  one  may  elect 
to  go  on  one  of  the  Kosmos  boats,  a  very  comfortable  German 
Line  Mhieh  in  1911  afforded  an  especial  advantage  to  tourists 
with  heavy  baggage,  going  up  to  Bolivia.  These  boats  lie  over 
two  weeks  at  Antofagasta,  taking  on  freight  at  near-by  ports; 
so  that  leaving  one's  heavy  baggage  on  board,  one  may  make 
the  trip  from  ]\Iollendo  to  Arequipa,  Cuzco,  and  La  Paz,  re- 
joining tlie  same  ship  at  Antofagasta  two  weeks  and  three 
days  from  the  time  of  going  ashore  at  Mollendo.  Persons 
patronizing  any  of  the  three  lines  from  Panama,  may  by 
especial  arrangement  with  the  purser  have  their  baggage 
checked  through  to  Valparaiso,  to  reclaim  it  at  the  Custom 
House  there  when  they  arrive. 

The  express  steamers  south  from  Callao  arrive  at  Mol- 
lendo on  the  second  morning  after  sailing.  As  the  daily 
train  for  Arequipa  leaves  at  12:35  p.  m.  there  is  ample  time 
to  disembark,  have  the  baggage  examined,  take  breakfast, 
ahnncrzo,  price  one  sol,  at  the  Hotel  Ferrocarril  just  above  the 
railway  station,  and  perliaps  look  al)Out  a  little  before  going 
aboard  the  train.  A  through  ticket,  jirice  40  sohs,  to  La  Paz 
shoultl  l)e  purchased,  as  tliis  saves  considerable  bother,  permits 
stopping  off  at  Arequipa,  and  for  the  trip  to  Cuzco  at  Juliaca, 
and  saves  a  trifle  over  the  local  tickets.  All  hand  baggage 
may  be  taken  into  the  car  without  charge,  but  there  is  a  heavy 
tariff  on  ti'unks  or  anytliing  that  is  checked,  so  much  so  that 
two  heavy  trunks  will  approximate  the  cost  of  one  ticket. 

99 


lOO  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

Most  persons  will  be  able  to  manage  with  hand  luggage  only, 
not  forgetting,  however,  that  wraps  and  warm  clothing  will 
1)0  needed  on  the  plateau  above. 

Mollendo  is  a  busy  port,  in  Peru  second  to  Callao  in  com- 
merce, though  far  behind  in  other  ways.  It  has  really  no 
harbor  at  all,  in  spite  of  a  small  breakwater  recently  built; 
the  rollers  and  surf  often  look  a  bit  awesome  and  the  barrel 
is  frequently  called  into  requisition.  Rarely  the  sea  is  so 
rough  that  passengers  are  carried  on  to  the  next  port,  whence 
they  may  return  at  their  own  expense.  Seven  or  eight  miles 
north  is  an  excellent  quiet  haven,  among  the  best  on  the 
Pacific,  Matarani,  to  which  there  is  much  talk  of  transferring 
the  port,  especially  since  most  of  the  business  portion  of  J\Iol- 
lendo  was  destroyed  by  fire,  April  2,  1912.  From  the 
Matarani  Bay  the  railroad  journey  would  be  nearly  twenty 
miles  shorter  and  the  ascent  to  the  top  of  the  bluffs  would 
have  a  one  per  cent  lower  grade.  It  is  hoped  that  the  trans- 
fer will  not  long  be  delayed. 

The  tariff  for  disembarking  at  Mollendo  is  higher  than  at 
other  ports,  four-oared  boats  being  generally  used.  For  one 
passenger  it  is  S.l ;  if  there  are  more  than  three  in  one  boat, 
60  ctvs.  each :  children  under  twelve,  30  ctvs.  Parcels  of 
ordinary  size  or  small  trunks  are  50  ctvs.  each  to  the  mole, 
and  as  much  more  to  the  station :  large  trunks  70  ctvs.  and  60 
more  to  station.  With  much  baggage  for  several  passengers 
a  bargain  for  the  whole  may  be  made.  The  boatmen  are  liable 
to  ask  double  what  it  is  worth  or  what  they  are  willing  to  ac- 
cept. Peruvians  generally  pay  one-half  or  one-third  as  much 
as  strangers. 

Mollendo  is  not  an  attractive  place,  between  ^l-Ay  and 
November  subject  to  a  fine  mist  or  drizzle,  and  having  little 
sunshine.  It  is,  nevertheless,  a  health  resort,  but  the  most 
melancholy  one  it  was  ever  my  lot  to  visit.  Yet  many  persons 
are  benefited  b}^  coming  from  the  greater  altitudes  of  Arequipa 
and  La  Paz,  even  though  the  place  be  damp  and  cheerless. 
AVith  an  hour  to  spare  one  may  stroll  around  the  town  or 
along  the  beach  where  the  waves  are  rolling  in  from  Australia 
or  other  remote  region,  or  may  climb  the  rocky  promontory 
to  watch  the  high  breaking  surf. 


THE  SOUTIIEKX  RAILWAY  101 

After  leaving-  the  station  the  train  for  several  miles  hugs 
the  sandy  shore,  then  turning  away  soon  begins  to  climb  the 
bluff,  here  about  3000  feet  high.  The  face  is  irregular  with 
steep  slopes  cut  by  many  canons.  The  road  winds  along 
up  one  of  these,  then  on  the  face  of  a  projecting  slope,  the 
car  having  first  one  side  toward  the  sea,  then  the  other,  and 
heading  in  turn  towards  all  points  of  the  compass.  At  Tambo 
Station  about  1000  feet  up,  there  is  a  pretty  view  down  into 
the  Tambo  Valley,  its  level  floor  green  with  sugar-cane  and 
other  agricultural  products.  AVomen  from  below  stand  by 
the  car  windows  with  fruit  and  other  edibles  to  sell.  The 
ever  changing  prospect  is  a  continual  source  of  pleasure, 
especially  near  the  close  of  the  wet  season,  when  the  upper 
half  of  the  slopes  is  quite  green,  mostly  with  bushes  of 
heliotrope  all  in  blossom.  At  other  times  there  is  only  sand, 
not  a  particle  of  verdure,  but  many  black  sticks,  some  day  to 
be  rejuvenated  into  glowing  life.  It  is  a  long  and  devious 
way  to  the  edge  of  the  plateau,  Avhere  a  sudden  change  is 
experienced.  The  green  if  any  is  left  behind,  a  sandy  desert 
is  before,  though  the  dampness,  in  the  winter,  continues.  The 
gradual  change  from  the  gray  mist  to  the  bright  desert  sun- 
shine if  oljserved  is  most  interesting,  and  then  to  look  back- 
ward upon  the  gray  cloud  from  which  you  have  emerged. 
Here,  perhaps,  you  have  your  first  view  of  an  absolute  desert ; 
no  wells  are  useful,  and  for  the  stations  along  the  track, 
even  for  ^lollendo  itself,  -water  is  pii)ed  down  from  near 
Arecpiipa,  100  miles  distant.  The  plateau  is  covered  with 
deep  yellow  sand  and  scattering  stones,  some  as  black  as  coal. 
Here  is  the  desert  you  have  dreamed  of:  no  sage-brush,  no 
blade  of  grass  relieves  the  burning  sand.  Not  that  the  sand 
l)urns  here,  but  in  some  sections  it  is  hot  indeed.  The  monot- 
ony is  relieved  by  graceful  gray  sand  dunes  from  three  to 
twenty  feet  high,  crescent-shaped,  moving  slowly  along  at  the 
rate  of  sixty  feet  a  year.  In  the  distance  are  variegated 
liills.  gray,  red,  yellow,  brown,  and  wliite,  and  the  great  moun- 
tains. El  j\Iisti  and  Chaciiani,  with  snow  caps  varying  in 
dimensions  according  to  the  time  of  the  year  and  the  charac- 
ter of  the  season,  Pichu-Picliu.  a  long  range  sliglitly  lower. 
Some  of  the  stations  have  a  glint  of  green,  a  suuiU  oasis  in 


102  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

the  deserl,  others  not  a  sign  of  verdure.  Vitor  is  quite  a 
little  place  Avitli  a  hotel  kept  by  an  ancient  Belgian,  a  neat,  com- 
fortable little  establishment,  used  as  a  health  resort  for  persons 
with  weak  hearts,  for  whom  Arequipa  is  too  high  or  Mol- 
lendo  too  damp.  It  is  a  starting  point  for  those  who  would 
ride  across  the  desert  to  the  Vitor  Canon  close  by,  the  Sihuas 
Canon  beyond,  and  the  IMajes  Valley  still  more  remote,  at  the 
head  of  which  i\It.  Coropuna,  21,000  feet,  is  situated;  ascended 
for  the  first  time,  July  16,  1911,  by  ]\liss  Annie  S.  Peck  and 
party,  A  railway  is  soon  to  be  constructed  between  Vitor 
and  the  ]\Iajes  Valley,  which  will  open  for  increased  traffic 
a  fine  agricultural  and  mineral  section,  the  products  of  which 
are  now  brought  by  trains  of  burros  across  the  desert.  A 
little  above  Vitor  the  train  enters  the  hills  and  presently 
passes  along  the  edge  of  the  fine  Vitor  Caiion,  the  floor  of 
Avhich  is  500  or  1000  feet  below.  Trains  of  llamas  may  be 
seen,  ancient  ruins,  a  suburban  town,  Tingo,  then  if  darkness 
has  not  fallen  comes  an  enchanting  view  of  Arequipa  on  the 
verdant  slope  of  the  great  volcano  El  Misti,  with  Chachani 
and  Pichu-Pichu  also  in  the  background. 

Arequipa 

Hotels.  Morosini  Parodi,  Grand  Hotel  Central,  Royal  Hotel, 
Hotel  Europe. 

At  the  bustling  railway  station,  at  the  car  windows, 
if  not  within,  boys  and  men  will  appear  who  wish  to 
seize  your  baggage  and  carry  it  to  the  trams.  Hotel  runners 
perhaps  have  previously  entered  the  car.  Behind  the  sta- 
tion a  long  row  of  tram  cars  drawn  by  little  mules  was 
formerly  found,  already  probably  superseded  by  the  promised 
electrics.  Before  taking  a  car  decision  should  be  made  as 
to  what  hotel  wall  be  patronized.  The  ]\Iorosini  Parodi  is 
by  many  called  the  best,  but  I  was  never  so  fortunate  as  to 
find  there  a  vacant  room.  Their  table  is  particularly  com- 
mended ;  the  main  building  containing  the  restaurant  Venezia 
is  on  the  west  side  of  the  Plaza  de  Armas,  and  there  are  sev- 
eral annexes.  The  Grand  Hotel  Central  and  the  Royal  Hotel, 
the  first  on  the  left,  the  second  on  the  right  of  the  calle 
iMercaderes  a  block  or  two  from  the  Cathedral  and  Plaza  are 


ON    THE    SOUTHEKN    KAILWAY    OF    PERU 


UELKJlOtb    i'KOCESSlON,    EL    Ml.-SIl    AT     lllK    iUl.UT 


AREQUIPA  103 

both  fairly  comfortable  with  perhaps  a  slight  preference  for 
the  former,  where  electric  lights  and  bells  are  in  service  and 
hot  and  cold  baths  announced,  wliich  does  not  mean  private 
baths  en  suite.  Few  of  tliese  will  be  found  after  leaving  the 
]\Iaury  until  you  arrive  at  Buenos  Aires.  From  some  of  the 
upper  rooms  of  the  Central  possibly  a  fine  view  of  IMisti  may 
be  enjoyed.  The  prices  at  each  of  the  hotels  range  from 
four  to  six  soles  per  day,  according  to  room  and  bargaining 
ability.  This  includes  everything  but  bath,  which  is  with 
difficulty  had  at  all.  Quinta  Bates,  a  pension  presided  over 
by  an  American  lady,  is  said  to  be  far  better  than  the  hotels ; 
but  its  popularity  with  the  residents  is  so  great  that  few  tran- 
sients can  be  accommodated.  A  respectable  hotel  of  lower 
price,  near  the  station,  is  convenient  for  one  leaving  by  the 
early  morning  train. 

Areciuipa,  at  an  altitude  of  7549  feet  (we  are  still  within 
the  tropics),  has  by  day  a  climate  of  perennial  June,  In-  night 
one  of  October  or  November.  The  evening  air  in  winter  is 
chilly  enough  to  make  many  men,  even  natives,  wear  a  light 
overcoat  and  some  ladies,  furs ;  at  the  same  time  others  appear 
on  the  street  in  thin  summer  clothing.  The  city,  the  second 
in  Peru  in  size  and  in  commercial  importance,  has  a  popula- 
tion of  about  40,000.  It  was  founded  in  1540  by  the  Span- 
iards, though  there  was  a  pre-existing  Indian  settlement,  a 
natural  location  on  account  of  an  ample  water  supply  from 
the  river  Chili.  A  garden  has  lieen  made  here  in  the  midst 
of  the  desert,  in  a  spot  sheltered  from  winds  by  the  moun- 
tains, enjoying  a  delightful  climate,  and  a  very  beautiful  pros- 
pect. 

Sight-seeing  begins  with  tlie  principal  plaza  which  lias  tlie 
Cathedral  on  one  side,  and  on  the  other  three  the  finest  stone 
portales  in  South  America.  Behind  these  are  many  of  the 
principal  shops,  dry  goods,  confectioners',  etc.  The  Cathedral 
is  a  fine  structure,  with  an  interior  more  imposinij  than  the 
outside  view.  Begun  in  1G12,  it  was  constructed  with  great 
elaboration  and  contained  many  costly  treasures.  These  with 
the  interior  were  largely  destroyed  by  fire  in  1844.  The  re- 
building which  consumed  twenty  years  was  hardly  over  when 
the  great  eartli(|ual«^  of  186S  occurred.  Fortunately  tli(>  work 
was  too  substantial  to  be  overthrown.     Sj^lcndid  columns  sup- 


104  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

port  the  great  arches  of  tlie  three  naves,  producing  an  effect 
unusually  n()l)le  and  impressive.  From  the  lower  side  of 
the  Plaza,  in  the  wonderfully  clear  atmosphere,  the  beautiful 
cone-shaped  ]\listi  presents  an  admirable  picture  with  Cha- 
cluini  a  trifle  higher  on  the  left  and  Pichu-Pichu  a  little  lower 
on  tlie  right,  in  the  moonlight  a  scene  of  rare  loveliness. 

Other  noteworthy  churches  are  those  of  Santo  Domingo,  and 
the  Jesuits',  the  latter,  La  Compania,  near  a  lower  corner  of 
the  Plaza,  having  a  noticeable  carved  stone  facade  and,  an 
uncommon  feature,  an  altar  in  the  open  air.  The  people 
are  noted  for  their  culture  and  for  their  devotion  to  the 
church,  the  city  having  the  reputation  of  being  the  most 
bigoted  in  South  America,  a  reputation  shared  by  several 
others.  There  is  no  objection  to  one's  practicing  his  own  re- 
ligion in  an  inconspicuous  manner,  but  there  has  been  serious 
opposition  to  proselyting.  Nevertheless,  the  Evangelical 
Mission  of  England  is  now  carrying  on  a  work,  especially 
among  the  Indians,  in  which  personal  hygiene  and  sanitary 
modes  of  life  are  taught  in  connection  with  moral  and  re- 
ligious instruction,  with  less  friction  on  the  part  of  the  higher 
classes  than  formerly. 

The  fine  new  Puhlic  Market  occupying  a  whole  square, 
about  two  and  a  half  acres,  deserves  a  visit.  The  building 
which  cost  $280,000  is  of  a  pink  and  white  volcanic  stone 
locally  called  sillar,  with  a  roof  of  corrugated  iron  arranged 
to  give  good  ventilation.  At  the  four  corners  are  four  build- 
ings, one  a  hotel  and  restaurant,  the  other  three  for  storage 
of  surplus  stocks  of  fish,  meat,  and  vegetables. 

Some  tourists  may  like  to  visit  the  splendid  new  hospital 
of  Arequipa,  called  the  finest  of  its  kind  in  South  America, 
named  after  the  Goyeneche  family,  Arequipauians  now  resi- 
dent in  Paris,  who  have  devoted  the  sum  of  $625,000  to  the 
buildings  and  their  equipment.  The  grounds  embrace  about 
eight  acres  of  gently  sloping  land,  with  the  main  entrance  at 
the  head  of  a  broad  avenue.  In  front  of  the  gate  is  a  beautiful 
Gothic  chapel,  with  Gothic  administration  buildings  at  each 
side  of  the  entrance.  Beyond  the  chapel  are  the  wards,  the 
men's  on  the  left  including  a  military  section;  the  women's 
on  the  right,  together  with  the  residence  for  the  nurses,  who 
are  Sisters  of  Charity.     There  are  especial  apartments  for 


AREQUIPA  105 

paying  patients,  with  and  without  baths.  Also  there  is  a 
hydro-therapic  building  eciuipped  for  every  sort  of  bath, 
available  for  use  by  outsiders:  operating  rooms,  kitchen, 
laundry,  morgue,  disinfecting  stoves,  electric  lights,  and  ample 
water  supply.  All  the  buildings  are  of  stone,  well  ventilated, 
and  a  fine  clock  adorns  a  tower.  The  hospital  was  inaugurated 
January  20,  1912. 

The  Garden  of  Scfior  Lcopoldo  Liicioni  is  a  picturesque 
spot  to  be  visited  by  every  stranger.  Vine-ccvered  walls,  ar- 
bors of  grapes,  heavily  laden  fniit  trees,  an  avenue  of  fine 
cedars,  flower-bordered  walks,  roses,  and  carnations  adorn  the 
place;  almost  every  variety  of  fruit  and  vegetable  seems  to 
grow  in  this  delightful  climate,  and  plants,  seeds,  and  cut- 
tings are  yearly  sent  by  the  owner  to  European,  and  to  other 
South  American  cities.  Planted  by  the  owner  26  years  ago, 
it  is  now  one  of  the  attractions  and  ])enefactions  of  Arequipa. 

Near  the  cit}',  about  two  miles  from  the  center,  is  a  spot 
which  is  a  strong  reminder  of  home,  the  name  Harvard  being 
familiar  to  every  American.  This  is  the  Observatory,  one 
of  the  most  important  and  best  equipped  in  South  America, 
established  here  in  1891  after  considerable  study  of  various 
locations  along  the  West  Coast  in  search  of  a  site  both  fairly 
accessible  and  favored  with  clear  skies.  In  addition  to  vari- 
ous other  instruments  there  is  a  24-inch  Bruce  photographic 
doublet,  the  largest  and  most  powerful  of  the  kind  in  the 
world,  and  a  13-incli  Boyden  telescope,  which  may  be  used  for 
either  visual  or  photographic  work.  ]\rore  than  100,000  photo- 
graphs of  the  Southern  Heavens  here  made  are  now  in  the 
Harvard  Observatory  at  Cam])ridge,  many  new  stars  have 
been  discovered  and  magnitudes  determined.  i\Ieteorological 
observations  are  taken  twice  daily,  and  were  made  for  some 
years  in  other  places,  the  most  notable,  on  the  summit  of 
El  ]\Iisti,  19,200  feet,  the  greatest  altitude  where  a  long 
series  of  observations  has  ever  been  recorded.  The  dwelling 
of  the  Director  is  a  very  homelike  structure,  from  the 
veranda  of  which  there  is  a  beautiful  view  of  INIisti  close 
at  hand,  of  Cliachani  a  little  more  distant,  and  over  the  city  of 
Arequipa.  and  the  great  desei't  ])eyond.  Visitors  are  welcome 
in  the  afternoon,  but  the  evenings  are  devoted  to  work. 

Six  miles  beyond  the  Observatory,  following  the  Cliili  river, 


106  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

is  tlie  l*o\ver  Station  of  the  Electric  Society  oi"  Lima,  a  pleasant 
ride;  but  in  the  plant,  only  the  specialist  would  have  great 
interest. 

Ascent  of  Misti,  19,200  feet.     A  imi()ue  possibility  which 
may  appeal  to  a  few,  to  those  who  say  that  they  like  to  climb 
mountains  as  far  as  they  can  ride,  is  presented  by  the  beauti- 
ful Misti.    For,  years  ago,  when  observations  were  to  be  made 
on  the  summit,  a  road  was  constructed,  i.  e.,  a  narrow  bridle 
path,  to  the  very  top  of  the  mountain,  and  a  stone  hut  was 
erected  at  about  the  altitude  of  tlie  summit  of  Mont  Blanc, 
where  the  observers  might  pass  the  night  on  the  way.     While, 
it  may  not  look  very  distant,  the  top  of  the  mountain  is  11  . 
^  nTHes  m  a  straight  line  from  the  Harvard  Observatory ^and_ 
^      3D  miles  aruuud  by   Llie  roacl,  which  from  there  makes  the 
/Je«^w«^complete  circuit  of  the  mountain   before  reaching  the  top. 
-f  One  desirous  of  making  the  trip  should  consult  the  Director 

^  J  ^  oi  the  Observatory,  which  may  be  done  by  telephone,  to  know 
lUa  /v«»«if  Francisco  is  available  as  guide  and  if  he  can  provide  mules. 
^  Having  made  the  ascent  more  than  100  times  Francisco  may 
"^Q  be  relied  upon.  He  may  charge  S.8  for  each  animal  and  as 
<^  much  more  for  himself,  or  he  may  have  doubled  his  prices 
within  the  last  ten  years.  He  may  indeed  be  dead,  in  which 
case  probably  there  is  another  who  may  serve.  Setting  out 
by  eight  o'clock,  with  plenty  of  wraps  and  provisions,  one 
will  not  be  likely  to  arrive  at  the  INI.  B.  hut  much  before  dark. 
The  way  goes  to  the  right  of  the  mountain  up  to  the  Plateau 
of  the  Bones,  13,300  feet,  between  Misti  and  Pichu-Pichu, 
where  passed  the  ancient  highway  to  Cuzco  and  Bolivia ;  then 
it  turns  directly  towards  the  summit,  to  the  jM.  B.  hut  at  an 
altitude  of  15,700  feet.  One  sleeps  on  the  floor  if  at  all. 
Some  persons  are  here  so  affected  with  headache,  fever,  and 
nausea,  the  usual  symtoms  of  soroche,  mountain  sickness,  that 
they  are  unable  to  proceed.  But  if  not  too  badly  off,  one  with 
good  grit  is  likely  to  feel  better  by  day,  and  in  the  fresh  morn- 
ing air  may  pursue  the  journey.  Some  persons  suffer  no  in- 
convenience whatever.  One  should  set  out  for  the  summit 
by  daylight,  as  the  ascent  requires  four  hours  or  more  and  it 
is  a  long  way  down  to  the  city.  From  the  summit  there  is  a 
splendid  prospect  of  mountains  near  and  remote,  of  the  beauti- 
ful city  and  green  valley  just  below,  and  of  the  desert  stretch- 


AREQUIPA__    ftKik  107 

ing  away  to  the  ocean,  whicli,  alas!  however  clear  the  sur- 
rounding? atmosphere,  is  likely  to  be  hidden  from  view  by  the 
almost  perpetual  cloud  of  mist  whicli  overhangs  the  shore. 
Still  more  striking  is  the  view  of  the  great  crater  at  one's  feet, 
a  gulf  half  a  mile  in  diameter  and  800  feet  deep,  enclosed  by 
almost  vertical  walls.  In  1903  a  lower  cross  wall  separated 
the  old  from  the  new  crater  and  it  was  possible  at  one  point 
to  the  right  to  descend  to  the  bottom  of  the  former,  climb  up 
the  cross  wall  and  look  down  into  the  new  crater,  which  was 
smoking  slightly;  then  to  continue  along  this  wall  to  the  edge 
of  the  crater  above  the  ]\I.  B.  hut,  and  to  slip  and  slide  down 
thither.  Some  changes  have  occurred  in  the  crater  since 
then  and  doubtless  most  persons  will  be  satisfied  with  reach- 
ing the  summit.  Nnwl^crt^  "i^^  in  tlu'  world  cnn  so  great 
an  iiHitude  be  so  easily  attained:  ^I'l^t'i  is  5000  feet  liigher 
than  Pike's  Peak  and  surpasses  every  mountain  in  Noi'th 
A'liiei'ica  s;ne  I\ll.  Mt-Kinky,  possil)lyMt_Logan.  If  the  season 
has  heen  unusually  stormy  and  tlitTmountain  has  a  consider- 
able covering  of  snow,  the  ascent  on  muleback  might  be  im- 
practicable. In  1903  there  was  but  a  small  patch  of  snow 
on  one  side  and  not  the  slightest  difficulty.  The  reason  for 
the  lack  of  snow  at  this  altitude,  when  it  is  found  on  other 
mountains  in  Peru  much  lower  down,  is  the  slight  precipita- 
tion which  here  occurs,  varying  with  the  year  but  always  less 
than  on  most  other  mountains.  No  real  eruption  from  this 
volcano  has  occurred  since  the  Spaniards  in  1549  founded  the 
city,  but  El  ]\risti  is  somehow  held  in  a  measure  responsible 
for  the  earthquakes  whicli  from  time  to  time  have  devastated 
the  city,  and  the  affectionate  admiration  with  which  the 
mountain  is  regarded  is  not  unmixed  with  awe.  Hence  the 
two  crosses  which  have  been  erected  on  the  summit,  standing 
near  the  little  shelters  for  the  Oliservatory  instruments.  Those 
of  a  self-registering  character  here  i)laced  were  for  a  year  or 
two  read  by  an  observer,  not  always  the  same  person,  who 
came  up  every  two  weeks.  The  effects  of  the  severe  c;nili- 
(|iiake  of  1868  are  still  visi])le  in  the  city.  Slight  shocks  are 
common.  For  this  reason  dwellings  of  a  single  story  aiv  gen- 
erally preferred,  and  few  buildings  have  more  than  two. 

Not  far  from  Arequipa,  as  is  natural  in  a  volcanic  region, 
are  springs  of  great  reputation.     One  situated  about  a  league 


108  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

from  the  city  produces  an  excellent  table  water,  called  the 
Agua  de  Jesus  or  de  Misti,  highly  recommended  for  general 
use,  good  also  for  several  aihnents.  It  is  a  pleasant  ride 
with  a  fine  prospect  all  along  the  way,  and  with  opportunity 
at  the  end  for  a  bath  in  a  clear,  effervescent  pool,  where  the 
water,  charged  with  carl)onic  acid  gas,  rising  from  the  gravel 
floor,  seems  to  have  a  higlily  exhilarating  effect. 

In  the  opposite  direction,  15  miles  from  Arequipa  near  the 
railway  leading  to  Puno,  are  the  Baths  of  Yura,  a  watering 
place  of  growing  fame,  with  baths  of  sulphur  and  of  iron. 
These  may  be  enjoyed  free  of  charge,  as  the  Government  has 
erected  suitable  buildings  over  the  various  springs;  though 
in  order  to  profit  by  them,  unless  camping  out,  one  must  pay 
a  moderate  board  at  one  of  the  neighboring  hotels.  The  Gran 
Hotel  de  las  Termas,  in  a  pretty  garden,  supplies  comfortable 
quarters  and  food  (bathing  suits,  etc.),  at  S.  2.50  a  day.  The 
waters  are  said  to  cure  stomach  troubles,  skin  diseases,  rheu- 
matism, etc. 


CHAPTER  XII 

THE  SOUTTTEKX  RAILWAY— CUZCO 

A  TKi-WEEKLY  train  is  now  selicduled  from  Arequipa  up  over 
the  nioimtains,  Monday,  Wednesday,  and  Friday ;  the  Wednes- 
day only  connects  with  an  express  to  Cuzco.  These  trains, 
are  provided  with  l)ult'et  chair  cars,  which  make  the  long 
journey  less  wearisome.  Persons  who  have  suft'ered  slight 
inconvenience  on  the  trip  to  Oroya  need  not  fear  a  repetition 
of  unpleasant  symptoms  on  this  journey,  the  stay  of  a  few 
days  at  Arequipa  making  the  change  in  atmospheric  pressure 
more  gradual ;  also  a  second  experience  is  generally  less  trying, 
and  the  top  of  the  southern  pass,  14,666  feet,  is  1000  feet 
lower  than  that  on  the  Central  Railroad. 

The  scenery  between  Arequipa  and  Juliaca  presents  far  less 
of  grandeur  than  is  witnessed  on  the  Oroya  road,  though  for 
a  time  it  should  keep  the  attention.  The  white  city  with  the 
deep  green  of  the  Chili  Valley,  and  graceful  ]\Iisti  with  its 
more  rugged  sisters  on  either  hand,  for  a  half  hour  form  a 
delightful  picture,  as  the  track  winds  along  down,  and  later 
l)cgins  to  clindj  around  the  other  end  of  Chachani.  The  dry 
and  channeled  slopes  of  this  mountain,  the  desert  of  volcanic 
sand  and  lava  rock  for  a  while  may  interest,  but  there  is  a 
good  deal  of  sameness  to  the  view,  somewhat  enlivened  by  two 
distant  splendid  snowclad  massifs,  Amfato  and  Coroi)una. 

The  Balks  of  Yura,  an  hour  from  Arequipa,  are  invisibU' 
from  its  station  :  a  glimpse  of  the  green  canon  may  be  had  later. 
Presently  Chacliani  and  ^listi  are  seen  from  the  rear,  ai)pear- 
iug  considerably  lower  from  the  increased  elevation,  (^n  the 
Pampa  de  Arrieros,  a  bleak,  grass-covered  plateau,  the  higli- 
est  point  of  the  divide  is  pa.ssed  at  Crucero  Alto.  A  little 
beyond  is  the  station,  Lagunillas,  near  which  among  the 
graceful  rounded  hills  are  two  romantic  lakes.  Saraooeha,  and 
Cachipascana,  one  on  each  side  of  the  track.     In  spite  of 

lOi) 


no  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

these  and  the  lines  of  beauty  in  the  contour  of  the  hills,  the 
plateau  is  rather  dreary:  to  live  happily  at  any  of  these 
stations,  one  must  needs  be  a  true  lover  of  solitude.  With 
good  fortune  one  may  descry  in  the  distance  a  few  vicuiias, 
cousin  to  the  llama,  but  with  much  finer  wool,  often  called  fur, 
of  a  tawny  shade,  as  light  in  weight  as  chincliilla ;  perhaps  a 
drove  of  the  almost  equally  rare  alpacas ;  the  former  in  a  wild 
state,  the  latter  under  care  and  cultivation. 

Juliaca,  the  junction,  is  a  busy  place,  always  thronged  with 
Indians  and  a  scattering  of  wiiite  people.  From  here  to  Puno 
the  train  is  generally  crowded ;  but  if  on  the  way  to  Cuzco,  you 
will  not  mind,  as  this  is  the  junction  where  the  roads  divide. 
Probably  you  must  descend  here  to  spend  the  night.  Passing 
through  the  station  on  the  right  of  the  track,  you  wuU  find  a 
plaza,  on  the  left  side  of  which  is  a  hotel  providing  clean  beds 
and  enough  to  eat,  with  no  display  of  elegance.  The  next 
morning  at  9.15  you  may  set  out  for  Cuzco,  if  Thursday  ar- 
riving there  at  7.40  p.  m.  If  Tuesday  or  Saturday  it  will  be 
necessary  to  spend  a  night  at  Sicuani,  the  journey  by  slow 
train  consuming  two  days. 

At  Juliaca  are  many  men  and  women,  venders  of  a  great 
variety  of  foods  and  of  merchandise.  Many  others  w^ill  be  seen 
at  the  stations  on  the  road  to  Cuzco,  women  wearing  odd  stiff 
hats,  flat  as  the  proverbial  pancake,  short  skirts,  and  shawls, 
men  with  short  trousers  and  ponchos.  Pottery  in  curious 
shapes,  jars,  water  bottles,  and  ornaments  may  be  purchased, 
match  safes,  tooth-pick  holders,  etc.  The  Indians  are  indus- 
trious, generally  occupied  with  spinning,  even  while  walking 
and  carrying  on  the  back  heavy  burdens. 

Tirapata,  where  there  may  be  a  pause  of  twenty  minutes  for 
breakfast,  is  a  place  of  considerable  importance,  headquarters 
for  the  Inca  j\Iining  and  Rubber  Companies,  where  their  wagon 
road  begins  towards  the  Santo  Domingo  gold  mines,  their  min- 
ing property  at  an  altitude  of  7000  feet,  and  their  rubber  lands 
beyond.  Eight  thousand  acres  of  land  were  presented  by  the 
Government  to  this  company  for  every  mile  of  road  opened  to 
traffic ;  and  one  was  made  across  the  plateau  northeasterly,  as 
far  as  the  mountains.  Over  the  Aricoma  Pass,  16,500  feet,  and 
dowai  the  steep  slopes  through  ravines  and  gorges  on  the  other 
side,  a  trail  for  mules  is  still  the  only  pathway.    Recently  a 


CUZCO  111 

concession  has  been  granted  to  the  Peruvian  Corporation  to 
build  a  railroad  from  Tirapata  or  from  Urcos  to  navigation  on 
the  Madre  de  Dios,  not  to  really  deep  water,  but  to  a  point  ac- 
cessible to  boats  of  two  feet  draught,  perhaps  at  Tahuantin- 
suyo.  This  is  likely  to  be  the  third  or  fourth  important  route 
across  Peru  from  the  Pacific  to  navigation  on  a  tributary  of 
the  Amazon. 

La  Raya,  the  highest  point  between  Juliaca  and  Cuzco,  with 
an  altitude  of  14,150  feet,  is  on  the  dividing  line  of  the  water- 
shed between  the  Amazon  system  and  that  of  Lake  Titicaca. 
Plere  is  the  knot  of  Vilcanota  where  the  Coast  and  the  Eastern 
Cordilleras  unite,  and  where  the  sacred  river,  Vilcamayu, 
takes  its  orijjjin  in  a  little  sacred  lake  lying  at  the  foot  of  a 
snowy  peak  visible  from  Cuzco.  Now,  leaving  the  bleak  pla- 
teau region,  the  train  descends  the  Vilcamayu  Valley  to  a 
milder  region. 

Sicuani,  2500  feet  below,  the  most  important  place  along  the 
road,  was  for  some  years  the  terminus  of  the  railway  line. 
It  boasts  therefore  of  a  good  hotel,  the  Lafayette.  Here  the 
niglit  was  formerly  spent,  the  remainder  of  the  journey  to 
Cuzco  being  by  diligence,  certainly  an  advantage  as  far  as 
enjoying  the  scenery  is  concerned.  The  Sicuani  market  place 
is  noted  for  its  extraordinarily  picturesque  appearance,  the 
Indians  coming  for  miles  around  to  make  their  purchases, 
largely  by  l)arter.  Journeying  by  accommodation  train,  whicii 
has  some  advantages,  one  spends  the  night  here  and  arrives  the 
next  afternoon  in  Cuzco. 

The  train  passes  many  historic  sites  and  ancient  ruins,  just 
out  of  view  the  famed  Lake  Urcos  into  which,  the  story  goes, 
was  tin-own  the  wonderful  gold  chain  of  the  Prince  Iluascar. 
This  was  said  to  be  long  enough  to  encircle  the  great  plaza  of 
Cuzco,  with  each  link  weighing  100  lbs.  Projects  have  been 
formed  to  drain  this  lake  in  the  hope  of  finding  here  much 
ancient  treasure,  but  though  small  the  lake  is  very  deep  and 
no  real  effort  has  been  made. 

Cuzco 
At  last  the  railroad  leaves  the  main  valley  to  follow  up 
a  tributary  on  tlie  left,  llic  Ihiataiiay.     At  the  head  of  tliis 
side   valley,   it   reaches  the   ancient  city  of   Cuzco,   once   the 


112  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

metropolis  of  a  vast  realm  surpassed  iu  extent  or  in  wealth 
by  few  in  the  world's  history,  i)robably  equaled  by  none  in 
the  number  of  people  living,  contented  and  peaceful,  under 
a  single  sway. 

From  the  station  half  a  mile  from  the  center  of  the  city, 
an  attractive  boulevard  is  being  laid  out,  on  wliich  a  tram  car 
runs  to  the  central  plaza,  or  by  this  time  electrics.  Carriages 
too  may  serve  and  boys  are  eager  to  carry  hand  baggage.  The 
hotels,  alas!  leave  much  to  be  desired.  Slow,  indeed,  are  the 
people  to  realize  the  necessities  which  must  be  supplied  if  the 
town  is  to  advance,  to  attract  tourists  and  business  men.  The 
residents  have  not  seemed  to  care  whether  there  was  progress 
or  not,  but  the  Central  Government  is  interested,  the  Prefect 
who  comes  from  Lima  is  endeavoring  to  work  a  revolution, 
and  the  cultivated  inhabitants  have  begun  to  realize  their  con- 
dition and  to  remedy  the  evils  which  have  long  been  a  reproach. 

The  Hotel  Comercio  may  be  endured  for  a  night  or  two, 
since  it  is  in  a  very  worthy  cause.  The  other  hotel,  the  Royal, 
is  no  better.  Another,  the  Central,  is  spoken  of,  opposite  the 
church,  La  Merced.  One  does  not  go  to  Cuzco  for  the  lux- 
uries of  New  York  or  Paris,  but  if  unhappy  without  these 
he  must  postpone  this  part  of  the  journey  a  while  longer. 
However,  conditions  are  improving,  and  in  1916  news  arrived 
of  a  really  clean,  comfortable  hotel  in  Cuzco,  the  Pullman,  said 
to  be  better  than  those  in  Arequipa.  On  the  spur  of  a  hill  which 
closes  the  head  of  the  valley,  at  an  altitude  of  11,500  feet,  is  sit- 
uated the  ancient  imperial  city.  Some  knowledge  of  the  history 
of  its  rulers,  the  greatness  of  its  domain,  the  development 
of  its  civilization,  the  magnificence  of  its  temples,  the  power 
and  riches  of  its  princes,  and  the  terrible  tragedy  of  their 
downfall  gives  a  keener  interest  to  the  massive  ruins,  the 
delightful  prospect,  and  to  everything  in  this  remote  val- 
ley which  is  connected  with  the  unique  and  wonderful  empire 
of  world-wide  and  immortal  fame.  -AJLtlie  time  of  its  capture, 
four  centuries  ago,  few  if  any  cities  in  the  world  couIcT 
rival  Cuzco  m  the  magnmcence  of  its  temples,  and  their  treas- 
ures of  gold  and  silver,  and  none  in  the  massive  fortifications 
and  other  constructions  of  which  the  remains  are  still  a 
marvel. 

In  the  histoiy  of  this  aueient  city  there  are  at  least  four  periods: 


cuzco  11:3 

the  prac-Inea  age;  tlie  glorious  epoch  of  the  Iiica  dynast}-;  the 
merciless,  mournful  clays  of  bloodshed  and  destruction,  followed  by 
the  brilliant  reconstruction  and  the  relentless  rule  of  the  Si^anish  in- 
vaders; and  the  slow  progress  of  the  modern  republic.  From  the 
earliest  period  date  the  megalithic  ruins  of  Sacsahuauian  and  else- 
where, regarded  as  belonging-  to  the  same  age  as  those  of  Tiahuanaco 
and  a  few  other  jjlaces,  their  origin  alike  involved  in  mystery.  Sir 
Clements  Markham,  the  most  careful  student  of  this  early  civiliza- 
tion, believes  it  to  be  an  indigenous  growth  of  great  antiquity, 
though  there  is  a  tradition  of  an  early  outside  influence  from  the 
south. 

The  great  empire  of  the  Incas  was  of  comparatively  short  dura- 
tion; according  to  commonly  accepted  tradition,  it  existed  for  about 
four  centuries.  The  most  current  and  aj^pioved  legend  of  the 
Incas'  origin  is  that  they  were  the  children  of  the  Sun,  who  pitying 
the  sad  condition  of  his  creatures  sent  to  their  aid  two  of  his  off- 
spring, Manco  Ccapae  and  Mama  Oclla,  brother  ai...  sister,  also  hus- 
band and  wife.  These  first  appearing  on  the  Island  of  the  Sun  in 
Lake  Titicaca  thence  came  to  Cuzco  and  established  their  dominion. 
Manco  seems  to  have  been  a  great  and  wise  ruler,  probably  of 
Quichua  origin,  and  to  have  lived  in  the  twelfth  century.  His  suc- 
cessor Sinchi  Rocca  was  a  peaceful  ruler,  but  the  third  Inca,  Lloque 
Yupanfjui,  subjugated  some  of  the  neighboring  peoples.  The  fourth, 
Malta  Ccapae,  was  a  greater  warrior,  extending  his  kingdom  over 
most  of  Bolivia,  and  to  Arequipa  and  Moquegua.  The  hfth  Inca. 
Ccapae  Yupanqui,  who  was  called  avaricious,  employed  his  reign  in 
subduing  insurrections  in  regions  already  conquered.  His  successor, 
Inca  Rocca,  was  an  eminent  warrior  and  statesman,  Avho  built  great 
palaces,  founded  schools  for  the  education  of  the  nobility,  and  made 
strict  laws  for  the  welfare  and  protection  of  the  people,  with 
severe  punishment,  even  death,  to  murderers,  incendiaries,  and  thieves. 

The  seventh  Inca,  Titu  Cusi  Hualpa,  was  less  successful.  An  in- 
vasion by  the  tribes  of  Chinchasuyo  caused  him  to  lice  in  alarm,  but 
his  son,  collecting  an  army,  defeated  the  invaders  and  was  tlien 
crowned,  with  the  name  of  Viracocha.  Huring  his  reign  eleven 
provinces  were  added  to  the  enii)ii-e,_and  a  magnihcent  temple  was' 
erccfeT  hventy  miles  south  of  Cuzco  with  an  altar  to  ViractH'ha.  a 
deity  who  ha<l  apjieared  to  the  jirince  to  warn  him  of  the  coming  in- 
vasion, informing  him  thai  he  was  the  creatcn'  of  man,  the  world, 
the  sun,  and  all  else.  A  remarkable  engineering  feat  of  tiiis  reign 
was  the  construction  of  an  irrigating  canal  nearly  four  hundred  miles 
long  and  twelve  feet  deep  to  convert  some  jdains  below  into  green 
pasture  lands.  The  eldest  son  of  Viracocha,  who  was  of  small  ac- 
count, Avas  presently  succeeded  by  his  brother  Pachacutec  who  brou;;ht 


114  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR. 

still  fjreater  jjlory  to  the  empire.  With  the  excelk-nt  armies  organized 
by  Pachacutec,  his  son  Tupac-Yui)anqui  made  conquests  aloiijr  the 
coast  from  Pisco  north  iiichulini^'  Pachacamac,  the  reahn  of  the 
Grand  Chimu  near  Trujillo,  and  the  valley  of  Cajamarca.  These 
cities  were  not  destroyed,  but  were  left  under  the  dominion  of  their 
former  rulers  as  vassals  to  the  Inca,  the  worship  of  the  Sun  being 
associated  with  their  former  religion ;  but  the  learning  and  use  of 
the  Quichua  language  was  made  compulsory.  Every  government  of- 
ficial and  soldier  was  obliged  to  speak  this  language. 

After  the  death  of  Pachacutec  at  the  age  of  eighty,  his  son  Tupac 
Yupanqui,  the  tenth  Inca,  conquered  Chile  as  far  as  the  Maule  Kiver 
and  spent  three  years  in  a  tour  to  the  various  parts  of  his  empire. 
Some  uncertainty  exists  about  an  Inca  Yupanqui,  but  a  younger 
son  of  Tupac  called  Huayna-Ccapac,  near  the  close  of  his  father's 
reign,  carried  still  farther  the  conquests  even  to  Quito,  which  he 
won  from  its  king.  His  reign  was  one  of  wisdom  until  its  close. 
The  rightful  heir  Huascar,  son  of  the  Coya  or  Queen,  had  a  rival  in 
his  father's  affections,  a  younger  son,  Atahuallpa,  of  another.  Pacha. 
Having  himself  retired  to  Quito  before  his  death,  Huayna  Ccapac  left 
that  province  to  his  son  Atahuallpa,  and  the  throne  of  Cuzco  to 
Huascar.  Thus  happened  the  division,  so  disastrous  to  the  Inca 
dynasty,  possibly  altering  in  some  measure  the  whole  of  Peruvian 
history. 

The  location  of  Cuzco  is  said  to  l3e  more  beautiful  than  that 
o?  Quito  or  Bogota,  both  of  world-wide  fame.  Rome.  Athens. 
^nd  Sparta,  in  the  opinion  of  many,  present  less  charmhig 
scenes  than  that  which  is  outspread  before  the  observer  on 
"Sacsahuaman!     Yet  how  altered  from  the  days  of  its  glory ! 


Then  the  hills  around,  fertilized  with  guano  and  small  fish 
and  irrigated  throughout  their  entire  extent,  were  terraced 
and  cultivated  to  their  summits.  XUeii  the  city  and  its  sub- 
urbs  are  said  to  have  contained  400.000  souls.  The  gates  of 
the  walled  enclosure  were  of  colored  marble.  Within  were 
great  palaces,  their  walls  painted  in  bright  colors. 

The  Temple  of  the  Sun  was  covered  with  a  roof  of  gold. 
In  the  gardens  around  were  artificial  flowers  of  gold  and  silver, 
figures  of  animals  large  and  small,  wild  and  domestic,  of  herbs, 
plants,  and  trees ;  a  field  of  maize,  fruit  trees,  images  of  men, 
women,  and  children.  The  doors  were  covered  with  gold  plate. 
A  gold  cornice  more  than  a  yard  deep,  around  the  building, 
did  not  remain  long  in  place  after  the  occupation  by  the  Span- 


CUZCO  115 

iards.  The  golden  roof  had  been  removed  previous  to  their 
arrival.  This  sumptuous  temple  called  Coricancha,  Phice  of 
Gold,  begun  by  the  first  Inca,  IManco  Ceapae,  Mas  not  con- 
cluded for  many  generations  until  the  time  of  Inca  Yupanqui, 
each  Inca  in  the  meantime  contributing  a  share  towards  the 
coini)letion  of  the  great  work.  The  form  of  the  temple  was 
elliptical,  and  opposite  the  entrance  where  the  rays  of  the 
rising  sun  would  fall  upon  it  was  a  gold  efifigy  representing 
the  Sun.  Golden  rays  projected  from  his  head  so  that  the 
entire  creation  occupied  one  side  of  tlie  temple.  When  the 
sun's  rays  fell  upon  the  figure  the  effect  was  indeed  dazzling, 
lighting  up  the  place  with  such  radiance  that  the  Indian 
nobles,  who  alone  were  permitted  to  enter,  prostrated  them- 
selves, striking  their  foreheads  on  the  pavement.  Tlie  only 
women  allowed  within  the  temple  were  the  wife  and  daugliters 
of  the  ruling  Inca.  On  each  side  of  the  deity  were  arranged 
the  dead  mummified  bodies  of  the  Incas,  clad  in  royal  robes, 
seated  upon  golden  thrones,  with  eyes  downcast  and  hands 
folded  across  their  breasts.  One  only,  Iluayna  Ccapac, 
faced  the  god,  one  story  says  because  he  was  the  best  loved, 
another,  because  he  dared  to  gaze  at  the  sun  and  show  that  this 
luminary  was  not  the  creative  lord. 

Beyond  this,  the  chief  holy  place  of  the  temple,  was  a  rect- 
angular cloister  with  five  square  chapels  around.  One  dedi- 
cated to  the  Moon  contained  a  silver  image  of  a  woman's  face. 
In  this  chapel  were  arranged  the  bodies  of  the  Queens  called 
Coy  as,  as  were  the  Incas  in  the  chamber  of  the  Sun.  The 
next  hall,  its  ceiling  covered  with  silver  stars,  was  dedicated 
to  the  Stars;  the  third,  adorned  with  gold,  was  to  Thunder 
and  Lightning.  Next  came  the  hall  of  the  Rainbow  with 
colored  delineations  on  gold  plate,  and  finally  a  hall  covered 
W'ith  gold  where  the  priests  gave  audience.  ]\Iauy  jewels, 
emeralds  and  turquoise,  were  set  in  the  mouldings  of  gold. 
The  bodies  of  the  Incas  were  removed  before  the  coming  of 
the  invad(>rs,  but  in  1559  five  were  discovered  and  subse- 
quently carried  to  Lima,  Avliore  they  were  buried  in  the  patio 
of  the  San  Andres  hosi)ital.  Four  streets  which  IimI  \o  the 
temple  of  the  Sun  are  now  called  Garcel,  TiOrdiL  Siintii  C'^- 
Ihia.  Hnd-S7rrr::\Turugtin. 

JNear  by,  where  now  is  the  convent  of  Santa  Catalina,  waa 


116  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

the  House  of  the  Virgins,  who,  like  the  Vestals  at  Rome,  fed 
the  sacred  fire.  Of  these  there  were  1500  or  more,  some  from 
Cuzeo  of  royal  lineage,  others  from  the  provinces,  selected 
for  their  beauty  from  those  of  high  birth.  They  spun  and 
wove  the  clothing  of  the  Inea  and  his  Queen  and  had  various 
other  duties.  Their  dishes  and  utensils  were  of  gold.  They 
entered  the  convent  before  they  w^ere  eight  years  of  age  and 
here,  vowed  to  chastity,  they  spent  their  lives.  This  build- 
ing was  200  by  800  feet 

Each  Inca  built  for  himself  a  great  palace,  and  above  were 
^le  wonderful  fortifications  of  Sacsaluiamaii.  West  ot  tlie 
town  is  a  place  called  Iluaca-puncu,  Holy  Gate,  which  is  ap- 
proached by  a  steep  street.  At  a  certain  spot  every  Indian 
paused  to  look  back  or  forward,  this  being  the  first  or  last 
point  from  which  could  be  seen  the  Temple  of  the  Sun.  And 
still  to-day,  as  four  centuries  ago,  the  Indians  continue  this 
ancient  custom. 

The  visitor  may  first  stroll  about  the  modern  city,  which 
should  occupy  him  for  a  day  or  more,  and  then  turn  to  the 
ruins  above.  A  short  distance  east  of  the  Hotel  Comereio 
is  a  larger  j)laza  called  the  Matriz,  which  with  the  other  two, 
the  Rcgocijo  and  the  San  Francisco,  in  ancient  days  formed 
a  huge  single  plaza,  the  scene  of  many  great  festivals,  its 
periphery  the  measure  of  Huascar's  gold  chain,  Jirst  to  at-_ 
tract  observation  is  the  imposing  Cath/drnl,  rpoavrbMl  "^  t]ii>-r1 
in  splendor  in  thp  Np^w  Wnrlrl,  fnllowing  those  of  Mexico  and 
"Mmtf: — BegLm  iirToGO,  later  than  that  in  Lima,  it  was  earlier 
finished,  in  1654.  One  writer  calls  it  the  most  perfect  ex- 
ample of  colonial  architecture  existing.  It  has  the  usual 
three  doors  and  naves,  with  two  rows  of  Corinthian  columns 
carved,  in  front  only,  to  their  base.  Built  of  stone  in  the 
Renaissance  style,  the  cost  of  the  cathedral  was  so  great  that 
one  of  the  Viceroys  remarked  that  it  would  have  been  less 
expensive  in  silver.  The  choir  in  the  central  nave  is  of  superb 
carving,  the  high  altar  in  front  is  covered  with  silver.  Two 
fine  organs  provide  music.  There  are  many  paintings,  one 
attributed  to  Van  Dyck,  El  Senor  de  la  Agonia.  Portraits 
of  the  Popes  and  of  all  the  bishops  of  Cuzeo  are  contained 
in  the  sacristy.  A  monstrance  ornamented  with  diamonds, 
pearls,  rubies,  etc.,  is  one  of  the  most  valuable  possessions. 


CATHEDRAL,    PU\ZA    MATRIZ 


AN'   ll.M     \S.\I.L 


CUZCO  117 

On  the  right  of  the  Cathedral  is  tlie  Cliapel  of  the  Sacred 
Heart,  on  the  left,  the  Chapel  of  Triumph.  In  front  of  the 
Cathedral  which,  with  the  Chapel  of  Triumph,  occupies  the 
site  of  the  palace  of  Viracocha  stood  a  round  tower. 

Especial  heed  should  be  given  to  the  tone  of  the  Cathedral 
bell,  called  one  of  the  richest  in  the  world.  It  is  styled  the 
Maria  Angola  from  the  name  of  a  pious  lady  who  presented 
300  lbs.  weight  of  gold  to  be  used  in  its  casting.  The  great 
bell,  which  is  large  enough  to  cover  eight  men,  was  made  in 
Cuzco  in  1659,  so  heavy  that  an  inclined  plane  was  built  to 
hoist  it  to  the  tower  and  many  men  were  required  for  the 
task.  It  is  said  that  the  bell  may  be  heard  for  a  distance  of 
25  miles,  and  that  its  rich  tones,  due  to  the  large  amount  of 
gold  in  its  composition,  are  especially  inclined  to  awaken  a 
spirit  of  reverence. 

On  the  south  side  of  the  Plaza  will  be  noticed  the  Church 
of  the  Compafiia,  the  Jesuits',  standing  on  the  site  of  one 
of  the  later  Inca  palaces,  that  of  Huayna  Ccapac,  father  of 
Atahuallpa  and  Huascar.  This  church,  one  of  the  finest  in 
Cuzco,  is  cruciform  in  shape  with  a  single  broad  nave  and  a 
large  dome  at  the  intersection  of  the  transverse  aisles. 
Pillars  both  round  and  square  support  the  fine  arches  of 
the  church. 

On  the  corner  of  Loreto  calle,  nearer  to  the  Cathedral,  was 
once  the  palace  of  the  Inca  Yupanqui,  some  distance  back  of 
which  was  that  of  Inca  Tupac  Yupanqui.  At  the  farther 
corner,  also  of  the  south  side,  was  the  palace  of  Iluascar 
beyond  the  calle  de  la  Carcel  which  led  down  to  the  Temple 
of  the  Sun,  now  built  over  by  the  church  and  convent  of 
Santo  Domingo.  The  church  is  not  so  fine  as  some  of  the 
others,  but  deserves  a  visit  on  account  of  the  histoi-ical  associa- 
tions, the  altar  now  occupying  the  position  foi'inci-ly  sa<'rcd 
to  the  Sun  god.  The  exceptional  oval  wall  btliiiid  llic  allai" 
should  be  noted,  indicating  tlie  elliptical  foi'iii  of  the  ancient 
structure.  Tlie  cloister  lias  a  finely  carved  slone  archway, 
and  columns  ai'ound  a  patio  ol"  llie  couvenf.  wliich  was  one 
of  the  earliest  Spanish  edifices  in  Peru. 

The  convent  of  Santa  Catalina  close  by  is  on  the  site  of 
the  ancient  House  of  the  X'iriiins. 

On  the  north  side  of  the  Pla/a  were  the  palace  of  the  Inca 


118  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

Rocca,  next  the  Cassama  or  House  of  Freezing,  the  mag- 
nificence of  which  was  supposed  to  stiffen  the  beholder  with 
admiration,  and  then  the  palace  of  Inca  Pachacutec.  The 
walls  of  the  ancient  structures  were  used  for  the  lower  floors 
of  Spanish  dwellings  and  a  second  story  with  balconies  was 
added  above.  Here  are  now  houses  and  shops  with  arched 
arcades  in  front,  much  as  in  the  time  of  Garcilasso  de  la  Vega, 
a  boy  at  the  time  of  the  Conquest.  The  palace  of  Pachacutee, 
the  Inca  legislator,  is  the  residence,  according  to  Fuentes,  of 
C.  Gonzales  Martinez,  calle  del  Triunfo  No.  78.  On  this 
street  is  the  famous  great  stone  with  twelve  angles.  At  No. 
116  on  this  street,  the  house  of  Seilora  Juana  Arinibar,  was, 
says  Fuentes,  the  palace  of  Yupanqui.  Francisco  Pizarro 
once  occupied  the  mansion  now  the  residence  of  the  Prefect ; 
his  brother  Gonzalo,  a  house  in  the  portal  Harinas. 

While  the  great  Plaza  of  Cuzco  in  the  days  of  the  Incas 
must  have  been  the  scene  of  many  joyous,  marvellously  bril- 
liant and  sumptuous  festivities,  in  violent  contrast  after  the 
Conquest  it  witnessed  the  most  terrible  tragedies.  Here  in 
1571  the  youthful  Inca,  Tupac  Amaru,  was  beheaded  in  the 
presence  of  a  vast  crowd  of  Indians.  For  a  moment  the  hand 
of  the  executioner  was  stayed  by  the  wail  of  horror  that 
arose,  but  the  ruthless  Viceroy  Toledo  would  grant  no  mercy. 
The  head  of  Tupac  was  set  up  on  a  pike.  In  the  middle  of 
the  night,  a  Spaniard  looking  from  his  window  was  amazed 
to  see  the  entire  Plaza  filled  with  kneeling  Indians,  in  silent 
veneration  before  the  last  of  their  rulers.  Next  day  the  head 
was  removed  and  buried.  Two  hundred  years  later,  in  1781, 
a  greater  atrocity  was  committed.  Another  of  the  same  name 
who  had  led  in  revolt  his  kinsmen,  suffering  from  the  inhuman 
exactions  of  their  rulers,  was  here  compelled  to  witness  the 
torture  and  execution  of  his  wife  and  other  relatives.  Then 
after  having  his  tongue  cut  out,  he  was  torn  limb  from  limb 
by  four  horses.  It  is  small  wonder  that  the  Quichuas  appear 
of  a  stolid,  melancholy  disposition. 

^The  church  of  La  ]Merced  should  be  visited,  especially  to 
observe  the  fine  cloister  with  its  admirable  arches,  columns, 
and  staircase,  as  also  because  here  are  the  remains  of  the  old 
warrior  Almagro  and  the  brothers,  Juan  and  Gonzalo 
Pizarro. 


CUZCO  119 

Above  iho.  r-itv,  ^1npo«  tnwnivl  flif^  porth  a  steep  hill  between 
_t\vo  gorges,  the  Iluatanay  on  the  east  and  the  Tuluiiuiyu  on 
the  west,  erowned  MJth  the  world  renowned  i'orti'ess  ut' 
Sacsahuaman.  ^A  loni;-  halt'  day  at  the  least  is  needed  tc 
investigate  this  and  other  ruins  alwve.  _]\Ian3%  with  a  whole 
day  to  spare,  aviU  tind  it  delight rul,"setting  girt -rartr^-ivrrhrar 
iTmcheon,  to  linger  aixjve  until  the  shadows  begin  to  fall . 

One,  may  go  on  toot  or  hnrsehaeir  (it  Tuny  hr  n  nmlr)  nrcnrd 
ing~tolns  taste  and  ability.  An  extremely  athletic  gentleman 
says  the  clind)  is  best  done  on  a  mule.  Certainly  it  is  better 
for  one  not  fond  of  walking,  but  to  a  good  pedestrian  the 
■walk  is  no  hardship.  Turning  to  the  right  on  the  ealle 
Triunfo  one  will  pass  a  great  wall  containing  the  famous 
stone  "with  twelve  angles  into  which  other  stones  are  beau- 
tifully fitted.  This  method  of  construction  is  characteristic. 
They  did  not  trouble  to  make  rectangular  blocks  of  a  fixed 
size,  but  utilized  stones  both  large  and  small  of  various 
shapes,  and  fitted  them  perfectly  to  each  other.  In  some  cases 
the  joining  is  so  fine  that  the  thinnest  knife  cannot  be  inserted. 
Nor  was  mortar  used  in  the  construction.  How  their  won- 
derful Avork  was  accomplished  without  tools  of  steel  or  other 
metal  remains  a  mystery.  There  is  a  legend  that  they  knew 
of  a  plant  the  juices  of  which  in  some  magical  manner  softened 
the  stone  so  that  it  could  easily  be  rubbed  into  the  required 
shape.  This  great  wall  perhaps  enclosed  the  palace  of  ]Manco 
Ccapac,  the  first  Inca,  of  which  some  remains  are  above. 
Still  higher,  on  a  terrace  back  of  this  palace,  was  the  Garden 
of  the  Sun  which  was  yearly  the  first  to  be  cultivated.  ]\Iark- 
ham  calls  this  the  most  lovely  and  the  saddest  spot  in  Peru. 
Beyond  the  calle  Triunfo,  to  one  climbing  the  hill  along  the 
edge  of  the  gorge,  scenes  of  beauty  are  continually  revealed 
as  one  pauses  to  rest  and  look  about  him.  The  great  fortress 
on  the  hilltop  was  so  difficult  of  access  that  in  the  greater  part 
of  its  circumference  a  single  wall  sufficed;  but  to  the  northeast 
or  rear,  as  regarded  from  the  city,  the  approach  was  gradual. 
On  that  side  for  a  distance  of  XW  yards,  were  constructed 
three  great  i)arallel  walls  which  had  21  advancing  and  re- 
entrant angles,  so  that  every  point  could  be  enfiladed.  These 
walls,  which  may  be  called  Cyclopean,  are  said  to  contain 
stones  surpassing  in  size  any  found  in  ancient  Mykenae  or 


^<^'    120  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR  .    / 

{^\_jje^   cT^  />oa,^uvX2-  6~>~JL^j-t^^  ju^s^JlM^^  c<t^   J^    A^AyiiJiJ.  -^^  (^ff- 

otlier  Greek  strongholds.  One  of  the  largest  stones  weighs 
about  ;}6  tons.  Tiiey  are  of  limestone  brought  from  quarries 
three  quarters  of  a  mile  away,  though  other  writers  state  that 
they  came  from  a  distance  of  5  and  15  leagues.  One  30  feet 
long  is  said  by  one  writer  to  weigh  160  -tons.  The  most  per- 
fectly planned  fortress  ever  ])uilt  is  the  extraordinary  tyibntp.^ 
which  this  work  has  receivcii.  Against  what  people  such  a 
stronghold   was  required  is  a  mystery,     "pip  loivefst  ^'^   ^bp 

three  walls  was  27  feet  liiirh^  the  second  was  18,   and  the , 

uppermost  14;  on  the  inside^  the  parapet  was  breast  liigli._ 
Between  each  two  walls  there  was  a  spncc  of  25  to  30  feet. 
In  each  wall  near  the  center  was  a  gate  which  could  be  raised. 
There  is  a  story  of  a  tired  stone  which  was  left  on  the  road 
and  w^ept  blood  at  being  unable  to  reach  the  fortress.  It  is 
related  that  this  stone,  being  dragged  by  20,000  Indians,  half 
in  front  with  stout  cables  and  half  behind,  slipped  back  down 
the  hill  killing  several  thousand,  and  thus  it  wept  blood. 

At  the  top  of  the  hill  in  a  triangular  space  within  the  en- 
closure were  three  strong  towers.  The  central  tower,  circular 
in  shape,  contained  a  fountain  with  v/ater  brought  from  some 
distance.  The  walls  of  the  tower  were  decorated  with  birds 
and  animals  of  gold  and  silver.  Here  kings  were  lodged  who 
came  to  pay  a  visit.  From  the  parapet  the  Inca  prince, 
Cahuide,  overcome  in  a  final  struggle,  plunged  to  his  death. 
The  other  two  towers  which  were  square  provided  lodgings 
for  soldiers.  They  had  equal  space  underground  with  sub- 
terranean passages  forming  a  labyrinth  for  which  a  skein  of 
wool  was  needed  as  a  guide.  There  were  no  arches,  but  cor- 
bels with  long  stones  laid  across.  One  of  these  towers  was 
the  last  to  be  defended  by  the  Inca  subjects  against  the 
Spanish.  The  invaders  soon  dismantled  the  colossal  Sac- 
sahuaman  fortress  for  material  to  construct  their  dwellings, 
perhaps  also  to  impair  its  strength  as  a  refuge  in .  case  of 
insurrection.  Impressive  are  these  great  walls,  and  the  ruins 
beyond  in  a  vast  solitude  where  no  habitation  is  in  sight,  per- 
haps no  human  being.  A  little  plain  lies  between  Sacsahua- 
man  and  a  hill  called  Rodadero,  once  partly  walled.  Here 
are  curious  masses  of  rock  which  look  as  if  children  or  older 
persons  had  slidden  over  them  for  ages.  Some  believe  that 
the  white  rock  solidified  in  this  form,  others  that  the  ridges 


CUZCO  121 

were  artificially  cut,  and  still  others  that  they  have  been  worn 
as  above  indicated.  Certain  it  is  that  youths  on  feast  days  or 
as  they  have  opportunity  still  take  pleasure  in  the  pastime  of 
sliding.  A  little  farther  on,  carved  in  the  solid  rock,  is  a  seat 
called  the  Inca's  throne,  where  he  may  have  sat  to  watch  his 
people  at  their  sports  and  dances,  or  to  review  his  troops,  or 
alone  in  state  to  contemplate  his  dominions  and  the  setting 
sun.  Very  near  is  a  stone  in  which  there  is  a  channel  ten 
inches  wide  and  over  which  is  a  little  bridge,  thought  to  be 
a  place  of  libation.  It  is  said  that  cliicha  is  thus  offered  here 
to-day.  Two  caves  may  be  seen  close  by,  a  small  one  of 
labyrinthine  character,  with  entrance  three  feet  high. 

Somewhat  east  of  the  Rodadero  is  another  rock  formation 
with  large  double  perfectly  level  stairs  with  a  small  landing 
at  the  top.  By  some  this  is  regarded  as  the  true  Inca  seat. 
All  about,  carved  in  the  living  rock  are  niches,  benches,  and 
seats  of  every  kind  and  shape. 

^From  Cuzco  a  delightful  excursion  mav  be  made  to  visit 
other  ruins  in  the  Urubamba  Yallev,  delightful  that  is  to  those 

who    do    not   0])jeCt    to    riding   on    :\    it^iil.^    r,Vi>v    rlitYinnlt    if    iKit. 

dangerous  trails,  or  slee;)ing  on  floor  or  table,  with  a  rather 
podf^food  supply.  Temporary  discomfort  will,  however,  be 
most  iiiglily  rewarded  to  tlie  lover  of  romantic  scenery  as  well 
as  to  the  tourist  of  archa-ological  tastes.  One  may  go  up  over 
the  hills  back  of  Cuzco  direct  to  Yucay  or  to  Urubamba,  and 
the  next  day  arrive  at  Ollantaytambo. 

These  ruins  of  Ollantaytamljo  in  the  valley  of  the  Uru- 
bamba River,  at  the  entrance  of  a  side  ravine,  have  long  been 
known  as  those  of  a  great  fortress  or  fortified  palace  arranged 
on  several  terraces;  the  first  plateau  300  feet  fi-om  the  floor 
of  the  valley.  Here  are  immense  stone  slabs,  polygonal  walls 
with  recesses  for  household  gods,  a  circle  or  pillar  caHed  a 
Intihuatana  for  observing  the  equinox,  and  other  remains  in  a 
valley  of  wonderful  beauty.  The  story  of  the  Tired  Stone 
is  also  connected  with  this  place.  Fjirther  down,  aliout  00 — 
miles  northwest  of  Cuzco,  are  tlie  still  more  wondeiMul  remains 
of  ]\racchu-Pichu,  recently  bi-ouglit  to  the  know  jrduM'  of  the  ^  <oA7 
worhl   bv   Professor    Hiram    IJin-jliam    and    descnix-d    m    the  /   /      / 

A])l-il,    1!)l:).    inili|])er    of    the    Xiiljomil     (ieogl'.-ipliie    M:|»/;i/int'.     j  \/' 

TIlis  is  thought   to  li;i\u  heen  a  city  ol'  refuge  of  cai'lier  date 


J-XX^J-^O 


122  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

than  Ciizco,  a  large  walled  settlement  2000  feet  above  the  bot- 
tom of  the  valley  and  7000  feet  above  the  sea.  The_Spaniards 
appear  never  to  have  reaehed  this  pointy  hence  the  ruins  are 
in  a  remarka])le  state  of  preservation  TTr-yn  ni-<>  torrtifcs,  numy 
houses,  fountains,  towers,  100  staircases,  and  beautiful  walls 
0 r  rectanaular  stones.  The  valley  itself  with  its  steep  rug'.'-ed 
wa11s^ts_Jn2il»'i«Tit  v(>tretation,  and  its  views  of  snowelad 
mountains  is  one  of  ineompar^hlp  Invplinpss 
""T^earer  to  Cuzco  are  ruins  previously  known  and  easily 
accessible,  at  Yucay  palaces  and  baths,  and  still  higher  up 
the  valley  the  fortress,  palace,  and  rock  tombs  of  Pisac;  all 
of  these  in  the  same  valley,  that  of  the  River  Vilcamayu  or 
Vilcanota,  as  it  is  called  in  the  upper  part,  below  becoming  the 
Urubamba,  then,  on  uniting  with  the  Apurimac,  the  Ucayali, 
which  with  the  Maranon  forms  the  Amazon. 

Other  ruins,  Choqquequirau  on  the  Apurimac  River,  iNusta 
Espana  and  Vitcos  on  the  Vilcabamba  River,  are  more  difficult 
of  access,  though  by  no  means  impossible;  but  to  investigate 
all  would  require  weeks.  Before  undertaking  such  journeys, 
one  should  read  the  accounts  of  other  travelers  and  come  suit- 
ably prepared;  they  are  not  for  the  ordinary  tourist.  When 
the  railroad  has  been  extended  from  Huaneayo  to  Cuzco,  a 
very  expensive  work,  the  completion  of  which  may  be  delayed 
for  some  years,  this  wonderfully  romantic  region  will  attract 
many  visitors. 


CHAPTER  XIII 

BOLIVIA— (IZCO  T(^  LA  PAZ      " 

From  Cuzco  tlie  tourist  will  return  to  Juliaca,  the  junction 
on  the  main  line,  where  he  should  arrive  in  time  to  take  the 
Irain  at5::)0  p.  m.  for  Pioio  on  Lake  Tilicaea,  a  ride  of  an 
hour  and  a  quarter.  The  time  table  should  be  carefully 
studied  in  Arequipa  and  the  journey  planned  to  avoid  a 
slop-over  at  Puno.  Should  tliis  occur,  notwithstanding,  one 
may  look  al)out  the  town,  which,  founded  in  the  seventeenth 
century,  is  an  important  center  of  trade  in  alpaca  and  vicuna 
skins  and  wool.  One  may  therefore  inquire  for  rugs,  as  these 
either  of  wJiite  alpaca  or  vicuna  are  valuable  souvenirs,  also 
])urchasabl(!  in  La  Paz.  Tlie  shorter  vicuna  fur  from  the 
necks  and  legs  is  considered  more  desirable;  though  the  longer 
is  preferred  by  some.  Tlu'  i-ugs  vary  in  price  according  to 
buyer  and  seller,  as  well  as  the  quality  of  the  fur,  from  pos- 
sibly 40  soles  up.  the  prices  continually  increasing.  In  La 
Paz  they  are  sold  at  from  60  to  150  bollvians.  Aii)aca  rugs 
are  more  rare  and  cost  about  the  same  as  the  better  vicunas. 
They  are  quite  double  the  weight.  Llamas,  sometimes  called 
the  camels  of  the  Andes,  are  prized  chiefly  as  burden  bearers, 
though  their  long  coarse  wool  is  serviceable.  Tlie  vicuna  and 
;il|)aca  ai'e  never  used  as  pack  anitiuds,  being  smaller  and  of 
lighter  l)uil(l.  The  fine  quality  of  the  vicuna  wool  and  its 
scarcity  makes  it  expensive  and  desirable.  A  poncho  or  any 
olhei"  article  of  this  wool  is  something  to  be  valued.  The 
Indians  alone  maiuige  all  of  these  animals  successfully; 
though  tile  vicuna  is  hardly  domesticated.  A  profitable  indus- 
try in  which  to  engage  would  be  the  culture  if  possible  of  these 
animals  for  the  wool.  Tlie  llamas  are  of  various  col(>rs,  black, 
brown,  white,  and  mixed;  the  alpacas  are  oftener  black  or 
white,  the  vicunas  a  tawny  or  fawn  shade,  fading  almost  to 
white  on  the  belly.     None  of  these  animals  have  horns,  and 

12:5 


]24  THE  80UTII  AMERICAN  TOUR 

spitting  is  their  only  weapon  of  defense.  They  range  mostly 
from  12,000  to  15,000  feet  in  Peru  and  Bolivia. 

Puno  is  quite  a  town  with  a  large  plaza,  several  churches, 
many  nice  homes,  a  college,  a  hosi)ital,  and,  in  the  vicinity, 
many  ancient  monuments;  one  famous  round  tower,  called  a 
cliulpa,  at  Sallustani,  of  unknown  origin,  is  by  some  believed 
to  be  a  burial  structure,  Puno  on  the  frontier  of  Peru  is  a 
meeting  place  between  the  two  tribes,  the  Quichuas  and 
Aymaras,  the  latter,  residents  of  northern  Bolivia,  while  the 
Quichuas  occupy  the  plateau  region  of  the  greater  part  of 
Peru  and  of  the  central  and  southern  portions  of  Bolivia. 

Lake  Titicaca,  halfway  between  Panama  and  Cape  Horn, 
is  on  a  great  plateau  more  than  two  miles  vertically  above  the 
level  of  the  sea.  About  135  miles  long  and  66  wide  it  has, 
with  a  very  irregular  outline,  an  area  of  more  than  5000 
square  miles.  Although  at  so  great  an  altitude  the  waters 
never  freeze,  being  slightly  warmer  than  the  atmosphere,  the 
temperature  of  which  in  winter  is  often  as  low  as  30^  Fah. 
Snowstorms  are  no  rarity.  The  glacier-covered  mountains 
on  the  southeast  have  some  effect  upon  the  climate.  A  number 
of  small  streams  flow  into  the  lake  which  has  a  single  outlet 
at  the  southwest  corner,  the  Desaguadero  River,  180  miles 
long,  emptying  into  Lake  Poopo.  For  a  distance  of  30  miles 
from  Lake  Titicaca  the  river  is  navigable  for  boats  of  500 
tons.  So  high  that  one  ]\It.  Washington  piled  upon  another 
would  not  rise  above  the  surface  of  the  water,  and  the  loftiest 
mountain  in  the  United  States  proper  would  appear  but  as 
one  of  the  grassy  hills  around,  this  sheet  of  water,  12.500  feet 
above  the  sea,  nearly  as  large  as  Lake  Erie,  is  the  most  elevated 
in  the  world  where  steamboats  regularly  ply. 

In  the  winter  months,  June,  July,  and  August,  it  is  quite 
dark  before  Puno  is  reached,  but  in  the  gloomy  dusk  one  will 
have  on  the  left  glimpses  of  the  Lake.  At  the  Puno  Station 
an  animated  throng  will  be  waiting  for  the  many  who  descend 
from  the  train ;  but  the  majority  of  first-class  passengers,  if  it 
is  the  right  day,  W'ill  remain  in  the  car  for  the  half-mile  ride 
to  the  docks,  where  they  embark  on  a  1000-ton  steamer  for 
the  sail  to  Guaqui  in  Bolivia.  Formerly  the  steamer  lay  at  the 
wharf  until  morning,  the  passengers  sleeping  on  board.  Then 
a   delightful   all    day's   sail   was   enjoyed   with    continually 


CUZCO  TO  LA  PAZ  125 

charming  views  of  deep  bays,  irregular  hilly  shores,  rugged 
picturosf|ue  promontories  and  islands,  and  after  a  few  hours 
the  splendid  Cordillera  Real  at  the  east.  Towards  sunset, 
the  line  of  snowclad  giants,  stretching  from  imposing  Illampu 
to  Illiinani,  presented  a  spectacle  of  extraordinary  mag- 
nitieence. 

To  those  who  delight  in  ancient  myths  and  archtTological 
research,  perchance  to  all  who  know  the  legend  of  ]\Ianeo- 
Ccapac  and  Mama  Oclla,  children  of  the  Sun,  it  would  be  a 
privilege  to  call  at  the  sacred  islet  Inii-Karha  or  Titicaca,  now 
commonly  referred  to  as  the  Island  of  the  Sun,  whence  these 
two  set  forth  on  their  wonderful  mission  and  career.  It  was 
reserved  for  the  fourth  Inca,  ]\Iaita-Ccapac,  to  return  with  an 
army  to  this  region,  then  entitled  Collasuyo,  and  to  reduce  the 
people  to  submission;  and  for  his  successor,  Ccapac  Yupancjui, 
to  complete  the  conquest.  The  Incas  were  greatly  impressed 
with  the  more  ancient  monuments  at  Tiahuanaco,  evidences  of 
a  superior  civilization ;  and  on  the  island  from  which  his 
ancestors  were  supposed  to  have  issued  on  their  ])eneficent, 
civilizing  mission,  Tupac  Yupanqui  erected  a  splendid  palace 
and  a  temple  to  the  Sun,  the  richest  in  his  entire  empire.  A 
temple  also  was  built  to  Thunder  and  Lightning,  a  monastery 
for  the  sons  of  nobles,  a  sanctuary  for  vestal  virgins,  and 
dwellings  for  his  courtiers.  The  island  is  said  to  have  been 
paved  with  gold  and  silver.  A  smaller  island  near  by  is 
called  Coati  from  Coya,  the  Moon,  wife  of  the  Sun,  where 
teini)les  to  the  ^Nloon  were  erected.  On  both  islands  many 
remains  still  exist,  but  to  visit  them  is  difficult,  as  the  regular 
steamers  sail  direct  from  Puno  to  Guaqui,  at  the  south  end  of 
the  lake.  These  l)oats  which  were  built  in  Scotland,  brougiit 
up  in  i)ieces  and  here  put  to<rether,  have  comfortable  state- 
rooms with  electric  liglits  and  afford  good  enough  meals.  The 
curious  native  boats,  the  balsas,  one  must  try  to  get  a  glimpse 
of  near  the  dock  at  Puno,  or  in  the  early  morning.  These 
are  made  of  reeds,  which  iri-ow  in  the  water  near  the  lake 
shore  and  are  bound  together  in  rolls.  The  broad  sails  also 
are  of  reeds.  After  a  while  they  become  water-soaked,  lasting 
only  about  six  months.  The  Imats  are  propelled  from  shore 
with  a  long  pole.  Before  the  coming  of  the  steamships  these 
boats  transported  much  freight  among  the  various  lake  ports, 


126  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

but  are  now  little  used  except  by  the  Indians  who  are  adept 
in  their  inanjigcinent  and  seldom  wrecked,  though  often  severe 
storms  suddenly  arise.  August  is  the  month  of  best  weather, 
though  the  coldest.  Warm  clothing  and  wraps  are  indispens- 
able. Thunderstorms  may  occur  at  any  time,  especially  in 
summer  when  waterspouts  are  not  infrequent;  but  in  ray 
seven  crossings  the  weather  has  always  been  good  and  every- 
thing comfortable;  berth  and  meals  are  provided  without 
extra  cost. 

Copacabana.  In  1903  the  steamer  called  at  the  town  of 
Copacabana,  on  the  west  shore  of  the  lake,  where  there  is  a 
far-famed  shrine  to  the  Virgin,  once  the  richest  and  most 
renowned  in  all  South  America.  The  story  goes  that  the  image 
of  the  Virgin  is  the  work  of  a  converted  Indian,  who,  ignorant 
and  unskilled,  from  pious  zeal  devoted  many  years  to  the 
task.  Aside  from  the  face  and  hands,  the  entire  image  is 
covered  with  gilt  upon  which  are  colored  designs  so  applied 
as  to  give  the  effect  of  an  elaborate  robe.  The  gold  crown  and 
the  many  priceless  jewels  with  which  the  image  is  decorated 
possess  a  value  indeed  amazing  to  find  in  a  town  largely  Indian 
in  this  remote  corner  of  the  globe.  Candles  are  ever  burning 
before  the  sacred  shrine.  Besides  the  church,  a  cupola  on 
columns  of  IMoorish  style  is  notable.  At  the  time  of  the  great 
festival  to  the  Virgin  in  July,  this  usually  quiet  town  is 
thronged  with  Indians  who  come  from  all  directions,  a  distance 
of  100  leagues.  ]\Iingled  with  Catholic  ritual  and  ceremonies 
are  primitive  Indian  rites  and  beliefs,  and  the  religious  exer- 
cises are  followed  by  grotesque  dances  and  songs,  drunkenness 
and  bestial  excesses,  as  happens  generally  on  the  great  feast 
days  elsewhere  among  Quichuas  and  Aymaras.  In  an  earlier 
period  there  was  here  a  city  with  accommodations  for  the  pil- 
grims who  annually  came  to  visit  the  Temple  of  the  Sun  on 
Inti-Karka  and  to  pay  homage  to  the  Inca.  Pilgrims  still 
come  from  Mexico  and  Europe  to  be  healed.  The  tourist  has 
now  no  opportunity  to"  visit  the  place  except  by  chance,  or 
with  an  outlay  of  considerable  time,  trouble,  and  expense,  by 
chartering  a  special  balsa  or  by  making  use  of  the  small  coast- 
ing steamer. 

One  should  rise  early  the  morning  after  leaving  Puno,  in 
order  to  enjoy  the  imposing  sight  of  the  great  mountain  range 


CUZCO  TO  LA  PAZ  127 

from  Illampu  to  llliniani,  a  distance  of  100  miles.  No  more 
splendid  vision,  some  maintain,  may  be  witnessed  on  the  whole 
round  earth.  As  one  l)eholds  the  glistening  glaciers  which, 
pierced  by  bristling  ramparts  of  rock,  in  immense  masses 
clothe  the  vast  and  towering  peaks,  with  the  brown  i)lain  and 
the  blue  waters  of  the  lake  as  a  contrasting  foreground,  it  is 
difficult  to  realize  that  one  is  two  miles  above  the  sea  and  still 
within  the  Torrid  Zone.  After  passing  through  a  very  narrow 
strait,  the  ship  sails  west  into  a  considerable  bay,  at  last  along 
a  narrow,  artificial  channel  to  the  port  of  Guaqui  near  the 
southwest  corner  of  the  lake.  It  is  a  bustling  place  with 
plenty  of  Indian  men  and  boys  to  assist  in  transporting  hand 
baggage  to  the  train  30  or  40  rods  distant.  A  trifle  bleak, 
maybe,  in  winter,  exercise  and  sunshine  promptly  dispel  dis- 
comfort. There  is  not  nuich  of  Guaqui  save  the  dwellings 
connected  with  the  port  and  railway  terminal.  It  has  been 
growing  with  the  increase  in  traffic  ever  since  the  opening  of 
the  railway  in  1903 ;  but  its  progress  may  now  be  retarded  by 
the  new  railway  from  the  Pacific  recently  opened  between 
Arica  and  La  Paz.  Life  on  this  desolate  plain  which  might 
seem  a  dreary  lot  to  many  is  yet  enjoyed  by  civilized  English- 
men and  their  families,  who  find  the  climate  agreeable  and  are 
content  in  the  possession  of  all  essential  comforts. 

The  cars  for  the  journey  to  La  Paz,  60  miles  distant,  are  of 
ordinary  American  style.  A  seat  on  the  left  will  alford  the 
finer  prospects,  though  at  the  start  the  hills  on  the  right  are 
liiglicr.  These  are  often  covered  with  a  thin  coating  of  snow 
wliich  at  times  spreads  over  the  plain.  Near  the  lake  the 
land  is  well  covered  with  bi-own  bunch  gi-ass,  good  food  for 
cattle,  many  of  which  with  long  rough  hair  may  be  seen  from 
the  car  window.  Trains  of  donkeys,  mules,  and  llamas  are 
often  in  evidence,  and  many  Indian  men  and  women,  not  very 
prepossessing  in  appearance,  the  Aymaras,  who  are  of  more 
cliui'lish  manner  than  the  Quichuas  of  Peru.  Along  the  line 
are  Jmlian  villages  and  solitary  dwellings  of  sun-dried  bricks, 
the  latter  surrounded  by  thick  walls  of  the  same  material, 
though  walls  of  stone  are  used  to  separate  the  cultivated  fields. 
Pil'leen  miles  from  (luaiiui  is  TioliiiaiKico,  the  seat  of  a  won- 
derful prehistoric  civilization.  Beyond  the  railway  station 
may  be  seen  at  the  left  great  stones  of  a  sacred  enclosure,  a 


1^8  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

mound  showinji^  evidences  of  excavations,  perhaps  a  colossal 
statue.  No  time  is  given  to  examine  these  marvellous  ruins, 
for  which  purpose  one  must  make  an  especial  excursion  from 
La  Paz. 

After  an  hour  or  so  the  Cordillera  comes  again  into  view, 
when  the  great  Ulampu  will  excite  profound  admiration,  until 
the  Alto  Station  is  approached.  Two  hours  from  Guaqui  the 
train  reaches  the  station  Viaclia,  a  junction  from  which  a 
road  leads  south  to  Oruro,  and  the  newer  road  west  over  the 
mountains,  to  the  sea  at  Arica.  Often  there  is  here  a  long 
wait,  which  begins  with  much  bustle  and  animation,  women 
offering  for  sale  fruits,  rolls,  and  a  variety  of  curious  concoc- 
tions. The  village  is  at  some  distance  on  the  right ;  a  church 
is  conspicuous  on  a  hilltop.  A  half  hour  beyond  at  the  Alto 
Station  another  pause  is  made.  The  train  is  divided  into  sec- 
tions and  with  a  special  engine  attached  the  car  proceeds  in 
reverse  direction.  For  a  mopient  it  continues  on  the  prac- 
tically level  plain,  but — Presto !  You  begin  to  descend  and 
suddenly  perceive  that  you  have  passed  the  brink  of  the 
enormous  canon,  of  which  already  you  may  have  had  a 
glimpse,  and  you  gaze  in  astonishment  at  the  steep  enclosing 
walls  and  far  below  in  the  distance  on  the  red  roofs  of  the 
city  of  La  Paz  more  than  1000  feet  beneath.  A  remarkable, 
astonishing,  and  delightful  ride  is  before  you.  One  wishes 
to  look  all  ways  at  once,  to  admire  the  long  curves  of  the 
winding  track,  the  strangely  carved  walls  of  the  caiion,  the 
troops  of  llamas  or  burros  with  their  Indian  drivers,  the  steep 
pathways  up  which  they  toil,  the  patches  of  bright  green  in 
the  midst  of  the  brown  slopes,  and  the  gradually  approaching 
city.  The  descent  is  on  the  sloping  head  wall  of  the  curiously 
carved  oval  basin,  the  sides  of  Mhieh  appear  in  places  per- 
pendicular and  converge  at  the  farther  end  in  such  a  way  as 
to  leave  no  opening  visible,  though  an  outlet  is  really  there. 
The  upper  edge  of  this  great  basin  is  called  the  alto  or  height 
by  the  people  dwelling  below.  Thus  concealed  in. .the— very- 
heart  of  the  Andes  is  the  unique  city  of  La  Paz,  with  its 
'gO!,000  inhabitants,  over  12.000  feet  above  the  sea,  the  highest 
capital  on  the  glnh^^  ^  pm-inns,  fascinating  place,  surrounded 
by  these  strange  walls:  whilp  briTli^int  snow  r-rnwnoil  llTTirmuL- 
tQ\\:£ring  in  majesty  9000  feet  above,  adds  a  charm  comparajjle 


BALSAS,   LAKE  TITICACA 


LA    I'AZ,    IIIUM    TUi;    ^lLL^i 


CUZCU  TO  LA  J'AZ  129 

to  that  wliich  the  Jungfrau  gives  to  Interlaken.  But  La  I'az 
itself  is  as  high  as  the  shoulders  of  that  glacier-robed  Alpine 
summit;  an  altitude  which  in  other  regions  signifies  perpetual 
snow  here  bringing  only  a  temperate  clime,  whe're  tlowers 
blossom  in  the  open  throughout  the  year,  and  the  rare  inch  or 
two  of  winter's  snow  (piickly  vanishes  in  the  morning's 
sunlight. 

The  railway  down  to  the  city,  by  many  pronounced  impos- 
sible of  accom{)lisliment,  was  opened  in  October,  IDO."),  through 
the  initiative  and  agency  of  Mr.  T.  Clive  Sheppard,  then  Sup- 
erintendent of  J'ublic  AVorks.  The  road,  S'/o  miles  long,  has 
an  average  grade  of  six  per  cent  with  curves  on  a  radius  of 
100  meters.  The  power  is  electricity  obtained  from  mond 
gas,  an  explosive  mi.xture  compounded  of  coal  gas,  steam,  and 
air,  cheaper  than  either  gas  or  steam;  a  consideration  of  im- 
portance where  coal  from  Australia  in  1908  was  selling  at 
retail  for  $50  a  ton. 

At  the  station  are  porters  who  for  modest  fees  will  transport 
to  your  hotel  your  baggage,  both  large  and  small.  Big  trunks 
they  carry  on  their  backs  with  apparent  ease.  Carriages  may 
be  at  hand,  costing  one  hoUvian,  40  cents;  or  on  the  other  side 
of  the  station  an  electric  car,  fare  20  ccntavos,  first  class,  will 
soon  be  passing.  This  will  bring  you  to  the  old  Hotel  Guibert, 
half  a  mile  distant,  and  to  the  Plaza,  on  the  upper  side  of 
which  is  the  Paris  Hotel,  new  and  modern,  now  generally  pre- 
ferred by  Americans.  20  centavos  is  an  ami)le  fee  for  the 
boy  who  takes  a  bag  to  the  car  or  even  to  the  hotel,  and  50 
centavos  to  the  man  who  brings  the  trunk. 

Of  tlie  early  liislory  of  Bolivia,  liltlc  is  known.  At  the  time  of 
tlie  Si)anisli  invasion  the  country  was  under  tlio  sway  of  tlie  Incas. 
Those  being  overthrown,  no  resistance  was  here  oU'ered  to  the  atl- 
vancc  (if  I)ie.L;()  de  Alniagro,  who  ehose  this  route  for  his  southward 
niaicli  for  the  concjui'st  of  Chile.  After  this  uiduippy  advi-nture 
Gonzalo  Pi/ano  invadi'd  the  eoinitry:  the  city  of  ("luu|uisaea  was 
foundeil  (at  times  called  Chaicas,  ami  La  Plata),  now  known  as 
Sucic.  Quanels  ainonii'  the  invaders  culminated  in  a  victory  near 
Cuzco  by  (he  \'iceroy  Pedro  de  la  Gasea  over  (Jonzalo  Pi/.arro,  who 
was  put  to  death.  As  a  memorial  of  the  jieace  thus  secured.  La 
Gasca  ordered  Captain  Ahmso  de  ]\lendn/a  to  found  a  city  in  the 
valley  of  Chuquiajui,  where  an  Indian  village  already  e.xisled,  and 


i;50  THE  SOUTH  AMP]RICAN  TOUR 

October  25,  1545,  the  first  aiiiiivcMsary  of  tlie  battlf,  the  foundations 
were  laid  of  a  city  named  Nuestra  Sefiora  de  La  Paz.  The  city  of 
Potosi  liad  been  founded  a  few  months  earlier,  after  the  discovery 
of  the  wondcilul  silver  mines  which  soon  made  the  city  and  cerro 
famous  throujihout  the  world. 

The  country  now  known  as  Bolivia,  formerly  Alto  Peru,  was  a 
part  of  the  province  of  New  Toledo  f^ranted  to  Almagro,  who  was 
beheaded  after  his  party  was  defeated  in  a  conflict  with  Pizarro's 
forces  near  Cuzco,  subsequent  to  his  return  from  his  unfortunate 
expedition  to  Chile.  In  1542  the  Viceroyalty  of  Peru  was  created 
with  authority  over  all  the  Spanish  American  possessions.  Under 
the  Viceroy  were  later  two  Aiidiencias  Rcales,  Royal  Audiences,  of 
Lima  and  of  Chareas,  the  latter  covering  the  foi-mer  New  Toledo 
and  having-  jurisdiction  over  the  provinces  of  Tucuman,  Paraguay, 
and  Buenos  Aires.  The  Audiencias  were  supreme  courts  possessing 
also  executive  functions,  and  were  responsible  to  the  Crown.  The 
Audiencia  of  Chareas,  created  in  1559,  had  its  chief  seat  at  Chu- 
quisaca,  the  site  also  of  the  bishopric  of  Chareas,  and  of  the  L'ni- 
versity  of  San  Francisco  Xavier,  renowned  in  Spanish  America  for 
its  learning,  and  ranking  with  Salamanca  in  Spain.  La  Paz  became 
a  Cathedral  city  in  1605,  and  Chuquisaca  in  1G09  was  made  the  seat 
of  the  archbishopric  of  La  Plata.  Other  cities  were  founded ;  ex- 
plorations were  made  east  and  north  of  the  Andes  Mountains;  the 
work  of  christianizing  the  Indians  was  prosecuted  by  the  Jesuit, 
Franciscan,  and  other  padres.  At  the  same  time  great  abuses  were 
practiced  upon  the  natives,  who  both  in  Peru  and  Bolivia  were  com- 
pelled to  work  in  the  mines,  and  suffered  such  hardships  and  cruel- 
ties as  rapidly  to  diminish  their  numbers.  In  the  seventeenth  and 
eighteenth  centuries  there  were  many  struggles  and  conflicts,  chiefly 
between  the  native  born  Americans  of  Spanish  ancestry  and  the 
rulers  who  were  for  the  most  part  Spanish  born ;  several  insun-ections 
occurring  with  intent  to  throw  off  the  Spanish  yoke.  In  1776  the 
Viceroyalty  of  Buenos  Aires  was  established,  to  which  the  Audiencia 
of  Bolivia  was  transferred.  In  1780  oecui'red  an  Indian  rising  in- 
stigated and  directed  by  three  brothers  named  Catari,  for  whose  heads 
2000  pesos  each  were  offered  by  the  Audiencia.  Thus  thej'  were  be- 
trayed. The  Indian  revolt  in  Cuzco  led  by  Tupac  Amaru  occurring 
about  this  time  incited  the  Bolivian  Indians  to  further  efforts.  The 
Indian  Ayoayo  with  80,000  men  for  three  months  besieged  the  city 
of  La  Paz  until  dispersed  by  an  army  from  Chuquisaca.  The  town 
of  Sorata  was  destroyed,  but  in  the  end,  after  50,000  lives  had  been 
lost  among  the  Spanish  Americans  and  many  more  of  the  Indians, 
they  were  finally  crushed. 

Injustice  and  oppression  bad  been  the  lot,  not  of  the  Indians  only, 


CUZCO  TO  LA  PAZ  131 

but  of  the  native  born  Spanish  Americans,  in  spite  of  the  fact  that 
especially  from  Peru  and  Bolivia  fabulous  wealth  had  flowed  into 
the  treasuiT  of  Spain.  The  Kevolulion  in  Noi-th  America  was  a 
warninji',  but  the  concessions  granted  were  too  late.  July  16,  IHiY.), 
conspirators  at  La  Paz  deposed  and  imprisoned  the  Governor  and 
proclaimed  tlie  independence  of  the  country,  organizing  a  Junta  of 
which  one  of  the  leaders  in  the  movement,  Pedro  Domingo  Murillo, 
was  elected  President.  This  insurrection  deserves  especial  notice  as 
the  first  effort  in  South  America  towards  democratic  goverinnent. 
A  trained  army  sent  by  the  Viceroy  of  Peru  overcame  the  feeble 
opposition  of  a  few  patriots,  and  Murillo,  January  20,  ISIO,  per- 
ished on  the  scaffold;  yet  full  of  confidence  he  exclaimed  in  the 
words  of  another,  "The  torch  which  I  have  lighted  shall  never  be 
extinguished."  Within  a  few  months  the  Viceroy  at  Buenos  Aires 
was  deposed  and  an  army  from  Argentina  under  General  Bclgrano 
met  and  defeated  the  royalists  on  the  field  of  Suipacha.  From 
this  time  on,  there  were  various  conflicts  in  which  the  royalists 
were  usually  successful;  but  the  patriots,  in  spite  of  serious  de- 
feats, for  years  continued  a  persistent  guerilla  warfare  in  which 
a  large  number  of  their  leaders  perished.  The  arrival  of  General 
San  Martin  with  his  victorious  army  at  Pisco  in  Peru,  and  som 
after  the  proclamation  of  independence  at  Lima,  July  2S,  1S21, 
gave  new  hope  to  the  Bolivians.  The  battle  of  Ayacucho  rK'ccmber 
9,  1824,  having  ended  Spanish  dominion  in  South  America,  January 
29,  1825,  just  fifteen  years  after  the  first  patriots  suffered  martyr- 
dom in  the  plaza,  the  last  Spanish  authorities  evacuated  La  Paz, 
which  was  occupied  by  the  Inde]iendent  Army  of  Alto  Peru  under 
General  Lanza  the  same  day.  The  victorious  army  under  General 
Sucre,  marching  from  Cuzco,  made  a  triumphal  entiT.  Fe])ruary  7, 
1825,  in  the  midst  of  wild  rejoicing.  "With  General  Sucre  acting  as 
the  ]nime  organizer  of  the  Kepublic,  the  first  National  Assembly 
met  in  June  at  Chuquisaca.  The  Act  of  Inde]iendencc  bears  the 
date  of  ^August  6,  1825;  the  itepublTc  wiTs  named  for  Bi^livar.  who 
w"as~eTected  its  first  Presj dent ^. \Y.lliJ£.Xhuquisaca  was  made  the  c a j ) i - 
laT  under  tlje  riA.me  of  .Snore.  Nuestra  Senora  de  La  Paz  ix-came 
LaTaz  de  Ayacuclio.  General  Bolivar,  on  his  arrival  in  L;i  Paz 
August  IS,  was  greeted  with  unbonndi'd  enthusiasm.  Jn  Nt»vcmber 
at  Sucre  he  was  inaugurated  President,  but  resigiunl  in  Jainiary, 
1820,  to  return  to  Lima.  The  troublous  times  which  followed,  con- 
tinuing many  years,  must  be  jiassed  over,  up  to  the  Giiilian  war. 
A  quarrel  arising  over  the  collection  of  an  exjwrt  tax  on  nitrate, 
Chile  sent  troops  to  occupy  Antofagasla,  then  Bolivian  territory. 
Peru  having  previously  made  a  secret  treaty  with  Bolivia  joined 
her  in  the  declaration  of  war.  April  5,  1870.     As  the  allies  were  al- 


1:52  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

lo^ellier  unprepared,  Chile  was  completely  victorious  and  Bolivia 
lost  what  little  coast  she  had  previously  possessed.  During  the 
last  thirty  years,  however,  internal  dissensions  have  for  the  most 
part  ceased,  and  with  more  stable  government  there  has  been  suc- 
cessful development  of  the  rich  resources  of  the  country.  In  1898 
trouble  arose  over  the  question  of  the  seat  of  government,  sessions 
of  Congress  having  been  held  in  several  cities.  Congress  passed  a 
law  that  Sucre  should  be  the  permanent  residence  of  the  President 
and  Cabinet.  The  people  of  La  Paz  protesting,  a  Federation  was 
formed  and,  after  several  engagements.  General  Pando,  com- 
mander of  the  revolutionary  forces,  gained  a  complete  victory,  with 
the  result  that  La  Paz  was  made  the  real  seat  of  government  al- 
though Sucre  retains  the  name  of  capital.  General  Pando  was 
elected  President.  During  his  administration  occurred  the  Acre 
boundary  difficulty  settled  by  the  cession  of  considerable  rubber  ter- 
ritory to  Brazil,  in  return  for  which  Brazil  paid  Bolivia  £2,000,000 
to  be  used  in  building  railways;  while  Brazil  further  agreed  to  con- 
struct the  so-called  Madera-Mamore  railway  around  the  rapids  in 
those  rivers,  thus  giving  to  Bolivia  an  outlet  by  the  Amazon  and 
Para  for  her  own  rubber  districts  and  for  a  large  section  of  her 
territory.  Under  President  Montes  (1904-1908)  a  treaty  was  made 
with  Chile  according  to  which,  in  addition  to  bestowing  a  subsidy 
and  other  considerations,  Chile  agreed  to  build  a  railway  from 
Arica  to  the  Altos  of  La  Paz,  recently  opened  to  traffic,  and  af- 
fording a  shorter  route  to  the  Pacific  than  those  by  Mollendo  or 
Antofagasta.  During  the  administration  of  President  Eliodoro  Vi- 
llazon  progress  has  continued  in  other  directions  and  especially  in 
the  development  of  railways.  The  road  from  Rio  Mulato  to  Potosi 
has  been  opened  and  that  from  Oruro  to  Cochabamba  will  probably 
be  in  operation  before  the  close  of  1917;  thus  these  two  important 
cities  are  brought  into  better  communication  with  the  outside  world. 
The  Madei'a-Mamore  Railway  is  already  in  service.  President  Vi- 
llazon  is  now  succeeded  by  former  President  Montes. 


CHAPTER  XIV 
THE  CITY  OF  LA  PAZ 

The  Grand  Ilotcl  Guihcrt  is  well  situated  at  a  corner  of  the 
principal  Plaza.  Though  not  on  the  square,  several  windows 
overlook  it  and  from  many  the  music  of  the  baud  concerts 
may  be  heard  on  Sunday  and  Thursday  evenings.  The  hotel 
entrance  is  on  the  calle  Coniercio,  one  of  the  principal  streets 
of  the  city,  running  longitudinally  in  the  valley.  The  side 
windows,  on  a  street  running  down  the  steep  hill,  look  across 
upon  the  side  walls  of  the  Cathedral  which  fronts  upon  the 
Plaza.  The  hotel,  with  two  stories  in  front  and  three  in  the 
rear,  is  an  ancient  structure  several  centuries  old,  with  hand- 
some carvings  on  the  inner  walls.  These  once  surrounded  a 
large  patio,  originally  open  to  the  sky  and  with  a  sloping 
pavement,  which  miglit  be  entered  from  the  side  street.  In 
1903,  the  patio  was  occasionally  occupied  by  a  drove  of  llamas, 
or  by  men  discharging  freight,  or  with  other  matters;  but 
now,  roofed  and  floored,  it  has  been  converted  into  a  large 
dining-room.  The  cookery  is  a  com])ination  of  French,  Span- 
ish, and  Indian  styles.  The  hotel  has  a  rather  narrow  entrance 
and  stairway,  and  no  salon  or  parlor  in  which  guests  may  be 
received.  The  chambers,  provided  with  electric  bells  and 
lights,  and  once  quite  luxurious  with  expensive  French  fur- 
nitui'c,  lliick  carpets,  etc.,  are  now  in  a  sad  state  of  dihii)ida- 
tion. 

Since  the  deatli  of  INFonsieur  (liiilx-fl  in  1!M:^  the  hotel  lias 
sadly  degenerated.  It  is,  however,  possil)h'  that  an  early 
change  in  the  management  may  restore  it  to  its  former  reputa- 
lioii.  The  Viiris  Ilotcl  on  the  upper  side  of  the  Plaza  in  a 
iii'wrr  l)uildiiig  with  inodeiMi  iiniirovements,  bath  rooms,  new 
I'liinilure,  and  a  bcttfi-  tabh*  is  now  the  more  attractive  spot 
for  tourists.  P>olli  hotels  ai'e  liable  to  be  full  to  overflowing, 
so  that  to  secure  a  good  i-oom  or  even  to  be  sure  of  any,  it 
is  wise  to  t('!cgfai)ii   from    Ai-ciiuipa  oi'  ("u/.co.      Pi-iees  vary 

133 


134  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

from  7  to  15  hoi.  a  day  for  room  and  board,  8  or  10  being 
the  average  fee  exeept  for  tlie  lai'gest  rooms.  Morning  coffee 
is  served  in  one's  room,  almuerzo  is  from  11  to  2,  the  crowd 
coming  between  12.30  and  1.  Away  down  on  the  Prado  is 
a  hotel  called  the  Casa  Blanca,  wliich  has  nice  large  rooms, 
even  a  suite  with  bath,  and  is  pleasantly  located  in  the  quarter 
of  the  foreign  legations.  The  table,  however,  in  1916  was  not 
conunended. 

Another  hotel  nearer  the  station,  kept  by  a  German,  is  said 
to  be  very  neat,  and  good  for  the  money,  the  price  being 
lower.  It  was  rumored  in  1911  that  the  millionaire  mine 
owner,  Sefior  Patifio,  had  purchased  a  corner  on  calle 
Comercio  on  which  to  erect  a  large  up-to-date  establishment. 
This  would  indeed  have  been  welcome  in  view  of  the  rapidly 
increasing  travel,  but  apparently  the  rumor  was  without 
foundation.  On  the  street  floor  of  the  Guibert  is  a  large 
cafe,  a  good  part  of  the  day  and  evening  filled  to  overflowing 
with  gentlemen,  both  natives  and  foreigners,  at  small  tables, 
regaling  themselves  with  a  cocktail  or  some  other  beverage, 
discussing  business  or  politics,  or  shaking  dice,  to  the  serious 
neglect,  I  was  told,  of  the  important  afi^airs  of  life,  as  is  fre- 
quently the  case  elsewhere. 

The  city  of  La  Paz  (population  80,000)  on  both  sides  of  the 
Chuquiapu  River,  which  flows  at  the  bottom  of  the  canon  in 
a  southeasterly  direction,  has  the  greater  part  on  the  left  bank. 
From  above  it  appears  as  if  on  the  broad  floor  of  a  valley,  but 
later  it  is  seen  that  both  banks  rise  steeply  from  the  stream. 
Thus  while  the  main  streets  running  parallel  to  the  river  have 
but  slight  incline,  those  at  right  angles  are  so  steep  as  to  make 
carriage  driving  almost  impossible.  Both  streets  and  side- 
walks are  narrow,  and  paved  with  small  cobblestones,  though 
the  walks  have  also  blocks  of  stone,  alternating  checkerboard 
fashion  with  the  squares  of  cobbles.  So  narrow  are  the  walks 
that  onl}^  two  may  go  abreast,  the  gentlemen  often  stepping 
into  the  gutter  to  allow  a  lady  to  pass.  In  fact  on  the  steep 
ways  many  prefer  the  middle  of  the  street  as  being  less  slip- 
pery, a  safe  enough  place,  as  on  these  one  meets  chiefly  other 
pedestrians  or  llamas.  The  latter  are  one  of  the  main  attrac- 
tions and  charms  of  La  Paz,  troops  of  graceful  animals  occa- 
sionally blocking  the  streets,  bringing  ice  perhaps  from  the 


CATHEDRAL   AND    GOVERNMENT    PALACE 


il.il^L,    \ir     n 


':iLME.NT    TO    MLKILU 


THE  CITY  OF  LA  PAZ  135 

glaciers  of  Illimani  or  some  nearer  and  invisible  mountain ;  or 
taquia,  the  dung  of  the  Ihuna,  here  the  chief  fuel;  or  carrying 
away  imported  merchandise  to  Indians  or  others,  dwelling  oft' 
the  few  lines  of  railway. 

The  multitude  of  Indians  (Aymards,  less  prepossessing  than 
the  QuicJiuas)  and  of  choJos,  wlio  together  form  nine-tenths 
of  the  popuhition  of  Bolivia  and  two-thirds  tliat  ot  La  i'^azT 
also  gives  a  j)icturesque  novelty  to  the  ])hK'e,  attractinLy  eager 
attention  if  not  achuiration  bv  the  strangeness  of  their  per.- 
■  Son;ditv  and  garlj.  The  Indian  men  l)earing  loads  or  driving 
herds  of  llamas,  both  apparently  belonging  to  some  remote 
patriarchal  age,  the  women  sitting  in  the  streets  or  squares, 
knitting  as  they  preside  over  the  sale  of  edibles,  knit  goods,  or 
other  wares,  or  handing  out  a  bowl  of  chupc  (soup)  to  a 
patron,  the  cholas  (women  of  the  half-breeds)  in  gay  attire, 
are  a  constant  source  of  interest. 

One's  sight-seeing  naturally  begins  with  the  open  square 
close  to  the  hotel,  called  the  Plaza  MuriUo  from  the  patriot, 
Pedro  Domingo  Murillo,  executed  here  in  1810.  This,  too,  is 
the  spot  where  independence  was  first  declared  in  1809.  The 
square  has  seen  many  turbulent  episodes.  In  1894  the  existing 
park  was  laid  out.  The  fountain  in  the  center  was  the  work 
of  a  talented  Indian,  Feliciano  Cantula,  in  1855. 

On  the  same  side  of  the  Plaza  as  the  Cathedral  is  the  Gov- 
ernment Palace,  erected  in  1885;  an  earlier  structure  having 
been  destroyed  by  fire.  This  contains  the  offices  of  many  state 
officials  and  in  the  upper  story  the  office  and  residence  of  the 
President  and  his  family.  In  October,  1908,  a  grand  ball  was 
here  given  by  President  Montes  in  honor  of  the  I'rincess  Ar- 
gendofia  of  Sucre,  on  which  occasion  the  large  patio  was 
entirely  floored  over  at  the  second  story  to  form  a  ball  room, 
which  with  the  corridors  was  handsomel}'  decorated  with 
hangings  of  heavy  broadcloth  in  various  colors.  The  aft'air 
was  altogether  elegant,  the  costumes  of  the  ladies  in  the  latest 
Parisian  modes,  the  refreshments  most  elaborate;  ices,  cakes, 
Jind  wine  were  served  at  small  tal)les  thi'oughout  the  evening, 
and  at  two,  a  fine  supper  with  soup,  hot  meats,  roast  beef, 
turkey,  etc.,  delicious  salads,  and  other  viands.  The  dancing, 
which  beg;in  al)out  eleven,  continued  until  seven  a.  m. 

Across  the  corner  is  the  Uall  uf  Conynss,  a  fine  new  edifice 


i;{6  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

completed  in  1905,  though  sufficiently  advanced  for  the  inaug- 
uration of  President  IMontos  in  1904.  In  addition  to  the 
Chambers  of  the  Senate  and  the  House  of  Deputies,  the  build- 
ing contains  among  other  offices  those  of  the  INIinister  of 
Foreign  Relations.  The  Cathedral,  close  to  the  Hotel  Cuibert, 
in  process  of  construction,  is  likely  to  continue  thus  for  many 
years.  In  1835  a  design  was  adopted  of  a  Bolivian  architect, 
Padre  Manuel  Sanauja.  The  foundations  were  laid  in  1843, 
when  stone  cutters  were  imported  from  Europe  to  instruct 
the  Indians  in  cutting  and  polishing  the  stone.  They  proved 
apt  pupils  and  were  soon  qualified  to  continue  the  work,  which 
has,  however,  been  much  delayed  through  troublous  times  and 
the  fact  that  railroads  and  other  projects  for  material  ad- 
vancement seemed  of  greater  importance.  Now,  however,  with 
an  appropriation  of  100,000  hoi.  annually,  the  construction 
is  slowly  but  steadily  proceeding  according  to  plans  of  Senor 
Camponoro  adopted  in  1900.  The  structure  when  finished  will 
be  the  largest  and  most  expensive  cathedral  erected  in  South 
America  since  the  Independence,  and  may  be  the  finest  of  any. 
Covering  4000  square  meters  it  will  be  capable  of  seating 
12,000  persons.  Of  the  Graeco-Roman  style,  it  will  have  five 
naves  with  columns  of  polished  stone,  towers  nearly  200  feet 
high,  and  a  dome,  the  top  of  which  will  be  150  feet  above  the 
floor.  Berenguela,  a  native  marble,  will  be  used  for  the  great 
altar. 

Two  blocks  north  of  the  Plaza  is  the  pro-Cathedral,  the 
church  of  Santo  Domingo,  where  such  services  are  held  as  are 
regarded  as  functions  of  State.    Thus  on  the  day  of  the  fun- 
eral of  Pope  Leo  XIII  in  1903,  a  procession  including  the 
President,  the  Ministers  of  State,  and  other  Bolivian  officials, 
with  members  of  the  Diplomatic  Corps,  all  in  evening  dress, 
the  customary  garb  on  formal  occasions  in  South  America  and 
Europe,  marched  from  the  Palace  to  the  Church  with  a  large 
escort  of  soldiery,  a  regiment  also  lining  the  streets  en  route. 
^     The  city  contains  twelve  other  churches,  five  public  chapels. 
«.  five  convents,  and  three  monasteries.     The  handsomest  church 
Lis  that  of  San  Francisco  on  a  plaza  of  the  same  name,  down 
on  a  fairly  level  space  in  the  hollow.     A  church  and  convent 
were  erected  here  in  1547,  but  the  present  edifice  dates  from 
1778.     Its  fagade  of  carved  stone  attracts  attention,  from  its 


THE  CITY  OF  LA  PAZ  137 

excellent  design  and  workmanship.  The  interior  has  three 
naves  and  eiglit  altars,  besides  a  high  altar  of  carved  cedar. 
The  convent  with  aecoininodations  for  two  hundred  at  last  ac- 
counts had  but  fourteen  inmates,  tiiough  recently  recon- 
structed from  a  legacy  left  by  a  rich  lady  of  La  Paz.  The 
convent  contains  one  of  the  largest  libraries  of  Bolivia. 

Besides  several  other  plazas,  either  entirely  paved  or  having 
a  little  green,  there  is  the  usual  Alameda  nearly  half  a  mile 
long,  which,  like  the  Plaza  ]\Iurillo,  has  been  the  scene  of  con- 
flicts. On  the  right  bank  of  tlie  stream  towards  the  lower  end 
of  the  city,  this  quiet  promenade,  ornamented  with  several 
rows  of  trees,  has  broad  driveways,  a  wide  central  walk  with 
pools  which  swans  adorn,  and  fountains  with  basins  containing 
gold  fish.  At  each  end  of  the  Alameda  are  portals,  of  which 
the  lower,  leading  to  the  Plaza  de  la  Concordia  and  the  Ave- 
nida  Arce,  was  taken  from  a  convent  cloister  and  set  up  here 
in  1828.  Along  the  Alameda  are  many  new  and  pretty  resi- 
dences in  rather  modern  style,  without  a  central  patio,  as  also 
above  and  beyond,  this  being  a  very  fashionable  and  growing 
section  of  the  city.  The  tints  of  pale  blue,  green,  yellow, 
crushed  strawberry,  etc.,  in  which  the  houses  are  painted,  in 
the  clear  sunlight  and  contrasting  shadows  present  a  gay  and 
pleasing  appearance. 

]\Iore  interesting  to  many  than  plaza  or  alameda  is  the 
Market  J'lacc  found  on  tlie  calle  Diez  de  ^Medina,  parallel  to 
tiie  Coraercio,  and  two  blocks  down  the  hill.  Going  down  the 
street  at  the  corner  by  the  Guibert  and  turning  to  the  left, 
the  entrance  to  the  market,  an  arched  portal,  will  ])e  found  in 
the  middle  of  the  third  l)loek  on  the  ritrht  hand.  Though  not 
very  noticea])le  the  market  place  occupies  the  greater  part  of 
the  square,  the  site  of  the  former  convent  of  San  August  in. 
The  best  time  for  a  visit  is  as  early  as  possible  on  Sunday 
morning,  when  hundreds  or  thousands  of  Indians  come  in 
from  outlying  districts.  The  adjacent  streets,  as  well  as  the 
market,  are  thronged  with  these  strange  looking  people.  Both, 
men  and  women  have  bare  legs  and  feet,  though  some  wear 
sandals.  Their  heads  are  more  carefully  protected  with  woolen 
hood  and  hat.  The  men's  trousers  are  noticeable,  wide  at 
the  pockets  according  to  Spanish  style  at  the  time  of  the 
Conquest,  and  with  a  slit  up  the  back,  showing  white  drawers 


138  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

underneath.  Made  of  dark  cloth  they  are  often  worn  lining 
side  out  to  preserve  them  from  damage  while  wearers  are  at 
work,  wlien  they  appear  gray.  The  women  wear  several  short 
heavy  skirts,  and  over  woolen  waists  a  shawl  or  two,  in  one  of 
which  a  baby  is  apt  to  be  carried  on  the  back.  The  cJiola 
women  are  much  gayer  in  attire,  v/ith  many  bright  colored 
woolen  skirts,  red,  green,  blue,  yellow,  one  showing  below  an- 
other, or  with  a  richly  embroidered,  white  under-petticoat, 
these  standing  out  like  a  balloon.  They  generally  wear  a 
jaunty  white  or  gray  hat  resembling  a  derby,  several  shawls, 
often  open-worked  stockings,  and  shoes  with  high  French  heels. 
A  great  contrast  to  these  are  the  Spanish  American  ladies,  in 
the  morning  on  the  way  to  church  or  market  rolled  in  black, 
the  black  manta  over  their  heads,  but  when  calling  or  visiting 
attired  in  the  latest  Paris  fashions.  The  gentlemen,  too,  are 
extremely  punctilious  as  to  correct  dress,  appropriate  to  the 
hour  and  the  function. 

Within  the  market  place  and  on  the  streets  around  are 
women  sitting  by  their  stalls,  in  the  doorways  and  on  the  side- 
walks, selling  their  wares,  dried  and  fresh  fruits,  vegetables, 
hot  soup,  chufios  (dried  potatoes),  cJialona  (dried  sheep),  and 
articles  of  almost  every  kind ;  shoes,  stockings,  salt,  sugar, 
meat,  coca  leaves,  rather  coarse  native  lace,  or  cheap,  imported, 
machine-made,  funny  little  rag  dolls  in  Indian  garb,  five  or 
ten  centavos  each,  red  beans  which  w^ould  make  a  pretty  neck- 
lace (they  are  not  real  beans),  soft  woolen  mitts,  mittens,  and 
caps,  and  coarse  caps  or  hoods,  with  face  masks.  The  women 
are  alwa.ys  knitting  (except  at  meal  time)  when  not  employed 
with  a  customer.  People  Avill  be  found  here  at  any  hour  of  the 
day  and  one  may  go  again  and  again  with  interest ;  the  numer- 
ous babies  and  toddlers,  though  dirty,  add  to  the  picturesque- 
ness  of  the  scene.  The  women  seem  pleasant  and  more  prepos- 
sessing than  the  men.  The  knitted  articles  are  astonishingly 
cheap  and  the  dolls  are  of  a  quaint  ugliness.  Everything  may 
be  found  here  but  flowers,  which  are  sold  in  a  square  on  the 
street  below,  just  on  the  other  side  of  the  river,  where  fruit 
also  may  be  purchased.  Sweet  peas,  pansies,  roses,  and  other 
flowers  brought  from  farther  down  the  valley  are  sold  at  very 
modest  prices. 

There  are  many  good  shops  in  La  Paz,  the  dry  goods,  mostly 


STUKKT    NKAlt     lilt:    AIARKKT 


IN    TIIK    CKMETEUY    OK    LA    PAZ 


THE  CITY  OF  LA  PAZ  139 

on  the  callc  Coraercio  or  Diez  de  ^ledina  ;  the  larfjcst  called 
El  Condor,  with  several  branches,  doinf?  an  immense  busi- 
ness. There  are  book  stores,  banks,  ami  all  ordinary  insti- 
tutions. The  house  of  W.  R.  Grace  is  on  the  calle  Medina 
towards  the  market.  The  Post  Office  is  on  the  ealle  Comereio 
just  beyond  the  Palace,  the  ofifiee  of  the  Prefect  is  on  the 
tloor  above.  A  short  distance  down  the  steep  street  between 
is  the  Police  Station. 

On  the  calle  Junin,  a  block  above  Plaza  IMurillo.  is  the  office 
entrance  on  Tndaburo  of  Don  ^Manuel  Y.  Pallivian,  preog- 
rapher  and  statistician,  formerly  ^Minister  of  Agriculture, 
who  speaks  English  fluently  and  is  most  courteous  in  giving 
information  to  students,  explorers,  or  investigators  of  the 
resources  of  the  country.  The  Geographical  Society,  of  which 
IMr.  Pallivian  is  President,  has  by  its  publications  and  re- 
search contributed  much  to  the  knowledge  of  the  country, 
which  ]\Ir.  Ballivian  has  himself  extensively  explored.  lie 
is  author  and  cditoi*  of  many  valuable  works. 

On  the  first  floor  of  the  same  building,  with  entrance  on 
calle  Junin,  is  the  M}(seum  of  Natural  Histortj  and  Industrial 
Propaganda,  containing  specimens  of  the  flora,  fauna,  and 
great  mineral  Avealth  of  the  country,  ancient  sculpture,  abo- 
riginal mummies  found  on  the  plateau,  pottery  of  the  Inca 
period  and  earlier,  and  other  paraphernalia,  as  well  as  curi- 
ous examples  of  modern  textiles,  and  other  work  and  imple- 
ments of  the  civilized  and  savage  Indians. 

Passing  two  blocks  along  calle  Indaburo  one  will  find  on 
the  left  the  Theater,  of  modern  construction,  recently  remod- 
eled and  equal  to  the  average  theater  anywhere.  Entertain- 
ments here  given  are  fi'e(iuently  subsidized  by  the  Govern- 
ment; as,  however  well  patronized,  the  receipts  would  hardly 
be  sufficient  to  pay  a  company  for  the  long  expensive  jour- 
ney from  the  sea  coast.  At  the  corner  of  Indaburo  and 
Yanacocha  is  the  Municipal  Lihrar)/  and  free  reading  room, 
open  day  and  evening,  wiiere,  as  in  all  ((uarters.  the  in(|uir- 
ing  stranger  will  receive  the  greatest  courtesy.  On  the  block 
between  the  lil)rary  and  the  theater  is  the   I'nivfrsitif. 

As  in  other  cities  of  the  West  Coast  there  is  a  Hull  Hinq  in 
the   outskirts  where  occasional   fights  are   held   with   skillful 


140  TIIK  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

Spanish  iorcadors.  Several  pleasant  walks  may  be  taken  by 
one  who  is  fond  of  hill  climbing.  A  litth;  Chapel  at  the  top 
of  the  left  wall  of  the  canon  to  some  may  seem  inviting.  It 
is  an  hour's  walk,  with  suitable  pauses  affording  attractive 
views  of  the  city  and  canon ;  but  the  arrival  is  disappointing, 
for  a  further  though  moderate  slope  cuts  off  the  expected  view 
of  plateau  and  distant  mountains.  Ilovv  much  farther  one 
would  have  to  go  to  obtain  this,  I  am  unable  to  state.  Some 
writers  warn  the  stranger  not  to  walk  at  this  altitude  except 
for  short  distances.  It  is  well  to  be  cautious  the  first  day,  espe- 
cially if  there  is  the  slightest  symptom  of  discomfort,  and  at 
any  time  persons  should  avoid  too  rapid  walking,  especially 
uphill,  and  be  careful  not  to  overdo.  This  is  a  great  country 
for  climbing,  its  opportunities  yet  unimproved,  Illiraani 
(21,000  feet)  being  the  only  one  of  its  high  mountains  whose 
summit  (by  Sir  ]\Iartin  Conway)  has  yet  been  reached.  There 
is  no  better  exercise,  providing  the  recreation  is  wisely  pur- 
sued ;  but  of  course  not  every  one  can  endure  the  altitude  even 
of  La  Paz,  to  say  nothing  of  8000  or  10,000  feet  more. 

A  walk  down  the  valley  may  afford  pleasure,  though  the 
majority  may  prefer  to  employ  a  carriage,  or  a  horse.  On 
foot  he  will  hardly  get  far  unless  taking  a  whole  day.  The 
road  winds  around,  and  the  wall  blocking  the  lower  end  of 
the  canon  is  more  distant  than  it  looks.  It  is  a  delightful  little 
drive  to  Obrajes,  three  miles  distant.  Every  one  should  go 
at  least  so  far,  and  will  then  wish  to  continue.  The  curious 
shapes  of  the  canon  walls,  the  bright  variegated  colors  of  the 
cliffs,  the  road  winding  in  great  curves  down  the  rapidly 
descending  canon,  the  beautiful  green  of  alfalfa  nu^adows, 
the  pretty  villas  and  gardens,  and  glorious  Illimani  above, 
excite  ever  increasing  admiration.  One  with  plenty  of  time  at 
his  disposal  may  ride  down  the  valley  to  a  hacienda,  Cebollullo, 
at  the  foot  of  Illimani,  enjoying  the  most  magnificent  scenery ; 
but  two  days  would  be  needed  to  go  and  return.  Down  this 
canon  one  may  proceed  to  the  Yungas  Valley,  whence  come 
the  vegetables  and  fruits  for  the  La  Paz  market.  A  railway 
will  some  day  open  up  this  country,  extending  to  Puerto 
Pando  on  the  navigable  waters  of  the  Beni,  whence  one  may 
cross  the  continent  to  Para  by  boat  and  by  the  newly  con- 


THE  CITY  OF  LA  PAZ  141 

structed  IMadera  Mamore  Railway,  l)iit  our  tour  does  not  lie 
in  that  direction. 

An  excursion  on  foot  or  horseback  may  be  nuide  to  the  noted 
gold  mine  Chuquiaguillo,  a  league  from  the  city,  which  in 
the  eighteenth  century  ])roduced  one  hundred  and  twenty-five 
million  dollars  gold.  Here  Indians  were  washing  for  gold 
when  the  Spaniards  arrived  and  here  they  work  still  under  a 
German  superintendent,  the  gravel  yielding  about  thirty-five 
cents  gold  a  cubic  foot,  with  an  occasional  nugget.  One  found 
in  1905  contained  45  oz.  of  gold.  It  was  recently  reported 
that  tliis  property  has  been  purchased  by  Americans,  the  Bo- 
livian Goldfields  Company. 


CHAPTER  XV 
OTHER  REGIONS  OF  BOLIVIA— ROUTES  TO  THE  SEA 

Tiahuanaco.  All  who  have  an  interest  in  legendary  lore 
and  in  ancient  monuments  of  a  mysterious  past  should  surely 
make  the  excursion  to  Tiahuanaco.  Even  those  who  have  no 
especial  leanings  in  that  direction  cannot  fail  to  be  impressed 
and  may  possibly  be  fascinated  by  these  strange  relics  of  a  by- 
gone age.  Taking  the  morning  train  to  Guaqui,  one  descends 
at  Tiahuanaco  and  after  a  stay  of  three  or  four  hours  may 
return  to  La  Paz  in  the  evening.  The  real  student  could 
profitably  devote  as  many  days  as  the  ordinary  tourist  would 
hours  to  the  examination  of  the  ruins.  These  are  believed  by 
Sir  Clements  Markham  to  indicate  the  existence  of  a  large 
city,  while  others  think  that  this  was  rather  an  immense  sanc- 
tuary and  never  a  place  of  general  residence.  The  existing 
remains  on  the  broad  plateau,  135  feet  above  Lake  Titicaca, 
from  which  it  is  12  miles  distant,  are  supposed  when  erected 
to  have  been  on  the  shore  of  the  lake.  A  great  terraced 
mound  of  earth,  supported  by  stone  walls,  having  an  area  of 
620  by  450  feet  and  a  height  of  50  feet,  is  called  a  fortress, 
and  also  a  palace.  Long  used  as  a  stone  quarry  for  the  erec- 
tion of  buildings  in  neighl)oring  towns,  even  in  La  Paz,  60 
miles  distant,  it  is  now  in  an  extremely  dilapidated  condition. 
The  excavations  of  treasure  seekers  as  well  as  of  scientists 
have  also  contributed  to  its  ruin. 

About  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  station  is  a  construc- 
tion, generally  regarded  as  a  sacred  enclosure,  which  has  the 
form  of  a  rectangle,  388  by  445  feet,  marked  by  granite  blocks 
15  feet  apart  and  8  or  10  feet  high,  conspicuous  objects  on 
the  brown  plain,  reminding  of  Stonehenge.  These  monoliths 
are  supposed  to  have  been  part  of  a  wall,  the  spaces  between 
filled  in  with  rough  stones,  A  temple  may  have  stood  within, 
but  of  this  there  are  no  remains.  A  massive  monolithic  gate- 
way, broken  and  apparently  not  in  its  original  position,  may 

142 


MONOLnniC    GATEWAY,    TIAUl  ANACO 


^^ 


INDIANS    AT    iKSTiyAL,    TlAlli  ANACU 


OTHER  KEGIOXS  OF  BOLIVIA  143 

once  have  afforded  entrance  to  the  enclosure.  This  great 
piece  of  stone,  13  feet  wide,  7  feet  above  ground  and  3  feet 
thick  was  probably  fractured  by  an  earthquake.  The  curious 
and  elaborate  carvings  on  the  ui)pcr  part  of  one  side  have  been 
variously  explained,  but  the  interpretation  endorsed  by  Sir 
Clements  IMarkham,  long  a  profound  student  of  Peruvian 
antiquities,  is  most  highly  regarded.  In  the  center  is  a 
human  head  supposed  to  represent  the  creator  of  the  universe 
Pachacamac  or  Viraeoeha,  to  which  the  other  figures,  partly 
human  and  some  with  heads  of  condors,  seem  to  ott'er  adora- 
tion. Three  other  constructions,  one  called  the  hall  of  justice, 
are  remarkable  for  tlieir  extent  and  for  the  cyclopean  masses 
of  stone.  There  is  abundant  evidence  of  extraordinarily  skill- 
ful masonry  and  of  excellence  in  sculpture.  ]\Iany  of  the 
enormous  stones  are  unequaled  in  size  in  any  other  part  of 
the  world  save  by  the  monoliths  of  Egypt  and  some  near 
Cuzco.  One  stone  36  feet  long  and  7  wide  weighs  170  tons. 
These  have  often  ornamental  carving.  A  number  of  statues 
elaborately  decorated  have  been  found  here,  one  of  which 
still  stands  upright  within  the  enclosure.  The  great  age  of 
these  remains  is  unquestioned.  One  theory  is  that  they  date 
from  a  period  before  the  plateau  Avas  elevated  to  its  present 
position  when  it  enjoyed  a  milder  climate. 

It  is  worth  while  to  go  over  to  the  modern  Indian  village, 
Tiahuanaco.  On  the  plaza  is  a  church,  largely  constructed 
of  stones  taken  from  the  ancient  ruins.  In  front  of  the  church 
are  two  ancient  and  dilapidated  statues,  long  since  transported 
from  their  original  site.  The  interior  of  this  small  church 
is  of  extraordinary  magnificence,  with  elaborate  gilt  carvings, 
an  altar  of  pure  silver,  and  some  religious  paintings  of  mod- 
erate excellence. 

On  the  16th  of  September  elaborate  festivities  occur,  wlu-n 
many  Indians  appear  in  velvet  or  plush  garments,  blue,  pink, 
or  green,  embroidered  with  gold  or  silver,  wearing  masks, 
black,  white,  or  yellow,  and  elaborate  feather  head  dresses. 
Pipes  and  drums,  other  wind  instruments,  and  wooden  rattles 
make  plenty  of  noise  if  not  music.  Some  men  are  dressed 
to  represent  devils,  with  horns  and  tail ;  others,  animals,  as  a 
sheep  or  a  green  turtle.  The  finest  suits  cost  each  as  nnich 
as  $200  gold.     At  Sorata  town  a  still  more  elaborate  festival 


144  THE  SOUTH  A.MEIUCAN  TOUR 

occurs  at  the  same  period,  lasting  for  four  or  five  days, 
(iorgeoiis  feather  head  dresses  may  be  seen,  and  fans  wiiich 
could  not  be  purchased  for  $75,  The  execution  of  the  Inca 
Atahuallpa  is  here  represented  with,  mourning  by  the  Indians. 
These  festivals  are  all  accompanied  or  concluded  by  drunken 
orgies.  In  La  Paz,  August  15,  1903,  occurred  somewhat  sim- 
ilar but  milder  festivities,  Indians  in  costume  and  dances. 

Sorata.  One  who  is  fond  of  horseback  riding  and  not 
afraid  of  a  little  discomfort  might,  with  from  five  to  seven 
days  to  spare,  enjoy  an  expedition  to  the  town  of  Sorata. 
This  city  of  8000  or  10,000  inhabitants  is  situated  about  a 
hundred  miles  north  of  La  Paz  in  a  beautiful  valley  at  the 
foot  of  the  mountain  of  the  same  name,  better  called  by 
the  euphonius  Indian  appellation,  Illampu.  In  1916  a  dili- 
gence or  covered  wagon  with  four  horses  twice  a  week  nuule 
the  trip  by  a  fair  road  over  the  plain  to  Achacachi,  perhaps 
70  miles  distant.  The  diligence  sets  out  at  a  very  early  hour, 
six  or  half  past,  making  a  rather  long  day.  From  Achacachi 
to  Sorata  town  it  is  a  ride  of  from  six  to  nine  hours  according 
to  the  animals  provided.  These  must  be  engaged  in  advance 
in  La  Paz  and  prol)ably  sent  ahead  to  meet  one  there,  in 
which  case  it  is  obviously  cheaper,  though  more  tiresome, 
to  go  on  horseback  all  the  Avay.  If  this  method  of  travel 
is  decided  upon,  or  indeed  the  other,  an  arriero  must  be  en- 
gaged to  provide  saddle  animals  and  to  take  care  of  them, 
being  paid  somewhat  in  advance.  Unless  he  receives  a  sum 
to  bind  the  bargain  and  to  pay  his  preliminar}"  expenses, 
whatever  he  may  promise,  he  is  likel}'  never  to  be  seen  again. 
But  having  accepted  money,  he  generally  carries  out  the  bar- 
gain, though  a  Avritten  contract  is  desirable.  An  arriero  once 
agreed  with  me  to  furnish  four  animals,  two  saddle,  one  of 
these  for  himself,  and  two  baggage  animals  for  eight  hoi.  a 
day  for  all,  he  paying  the  expenses  for  his  own  food  and  the 
animals;  but  it  might  cost  double  that  now.  j\Iuch  depends 
on  chance  and  ability  at  bargaining.  If  making  the  journey 
on  horseback  one  should  at  least  take  the  early  train  to  the 
alto  arranging  in  advance  for  the  animals  to  meet  him  above. 
Setting  out  from  there  promptly,  a  good  horseman  with  first- 
rate  animals  might  reach  Guarina  or  even  Achacachi  the 
same  evening  and  from  either  place  go  on  to  Sorata  the  next 


OTHER  REGIONS  OF  BOLIVIA  145 

day.  Soon  after  leaving  the  Alto  Station  all  traces  of  life 
disappear  save  what  is  met  iii)on  the  road,  Indians  with  llamas, 
burros,  etc.  The  brown  plain  shows  no  signs  of  cultivation, 
being  thickly  covered  with  stones.  No  village  or  hut  is 
passed  for  hours.  But  the  threat  peaks  seen  from  slowly 
varying  angles  are  a  continujd  source  of  enjoyment.  A 
splendid  imposing  mountain,  Huaina  Potosi  or  Cacaaca,  about 
21,000  feet,  with  tin  mines  on  its  lower  slopes,  affords  an 
opportunity  for  a  difficult  first  ascent.  The  tamho,  Cocuta, 
should  be  reached  in  time  for  almucrzo;  at  the  very  least, 
j\Iachacamarca  for  the  night :  better  Guarina,  if  possible.  If 
one  lodges  at  ]\Iachacamarca  one  must  spend  the  next  night 
at  Achacachi  and  go  the  third  day  to  Sorata.  It  is  desirable, 
even  necessary,  to  take  blankets  for  the  niglit,  and  to  provide 
in  the  alforjas  (saddle  bags),  a  supply  of  chocolate,  raisins, 
etc.,  perhaps  canned  meat  and  crackers.  At  Cocuta,  and  the 
other  places,  meals  are  provided,  soup,  eggs,  beefsteak,  coarse 
bread,  and  tea,  but  betwe  n  Achacachi  and  Sorata  there  is  no 
place  for  luncheon ;  and  some  chocolate,  etc.,  will  come  in  very 
well  the  first  day.  Except  at  Achacachi  no  bed  will  be  found 
better  than  a  couch  of  adobe,  but  with  blankets  a  hard  bed  is 
no  harm.  I  have  heard  dire  tales  of  the  insect  life  which  in- 
fests some  such  places,  but  in  my  own  considerable  experience, 
I  never  found  anything  worse  than  fleas  and  not  many  of  them. 
The  immense  snow  fields  of  Illampu  come  into  view  soon  after 
leaving  Cocuta.  Before  reaching  Guarina  there  are  glimpses 
of  Lake  Titicaca.  Between  Achacachi  and  Sorata  the  Ilua- 
llata  pass  is  crossed  at  a  height  of  14,000  feet.  This  is  a  big 
buttress  of  Illampu,  from  the  top  of  which  one  has  a  splendid 
view  of  the  enormous  mountain  massif  close  at  hand,  with 
its  several  summits  all  from  this  side  seeming  absolutely  un- 
cliiii])able.  Descending  towards  Sorata  attention  is  divided 
between  the  tremendous  cliffs  of  Illampu  on  the  right  and  the 
romantic  ^Mapiri  Valley  below.  The  town,  Sorata,  at  an  alti- 
tude of  8000  feet,  has  a  charmingly  picturesque  local  ion- on  a 
terrace  near  the  head  of  the  valley,  among  trees,  shrubs,  and 
fragrant  flowers,  in  striking  contrast  to  tlie  bare,  bleak,  brown 
plain  above.  On  one  side  the  grim  walls  and  glittering  sum- 
mits of  Illampu  rise  nearly  14.000  feet  (the  height  of  the 
mountain  being  over  21,000),  contrasting  sharply  with   tho 


146  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

bluish  purple  tints  down  the  steeply  enclosed  gorge  opposite. 
At  no  distant  day  electric  cars  will  cross  the  mountain  ridge, 
and  this  cliariuing  town  will  be  regularly  included  in  the 
fashionable  tours  of  South  America.  Sorata  now  has  a  fair 
hotel,  as  it  is  the  headquarters  for  several  rubber  companies 
which  conduct  the  industry  on  the  lower  eastern  slope  of  the 
Andes,  and  for  many  miners  who  seek  placer  deposits,  or 
the  veins  above  them,  also  on  the  eastern  side.  Any  one 
with  the  spirit  of  the  explorer  would  find  it  a  most  interesting 
trip  to  make  the  circuit  of  the  mountain:  not  a  difficult  task, 
but  probably  never  yet  accomplished  by  a  white  person.  To 
the  mountaineer,  Illampu  still  affords  opportunity  for  a 
splendid  first  ascent.  Miss  Peck  in  IDOi  being  obliged  to  turn 
back  in  good  weather  and  a  fine  condition  of  the  mountain  at 
about  20,500  feet  simply  because  her  companions  refused  to 
advance ;  while  Conway  in  1898  retreated  from  a  higher  point 
on  account  of  dangerous  conditions  of  the  snow.  AVith  Swiss 
guides  the  ascent  should  be  easily  made,  or  without  them  by 
experts  like  the  conquerors  of  Mt.  McKinley,  Parker  and 
Browne. 

Trains  from  La  Paz  Thursday  and  Sunday  at  4.15  p.  m.  arrive  at 
Ariea  at  10.50  the  next  morning.     Sleeping  cars. 

La  Paz  to  Arica.  At  La  Paz,  if  not  earlier,  decision  must 
be  made  as  to  the  route  in  leaving  this  remarkable  city.  At 
present  two  are  offered  besides  that  by  which  we  have  come ; 
one  by  Arica,  the  other  by  Antofagasta.  If  one  is  averse  to 
a  long  railroad  journey  and  is  not  eager  to  see  other  Bolivian 
cities,  Oruro,  Potosi,  Cochabamba,  he  will  prefer  the  Arica 
road,  250  miles,  by  which  trains  were  expected  to  descend  from 
La  Paz  in  twelve  hours  to  the  sea,  and  the  upward  journey 
was  to  occupy  sixteen.  On  account  of  the  steep  grade,  the 
rack-rail  system  is  employed  on  one  stretch  for  a  distance  of 
25  miles.  To  render  harmless  the  rapid  change  in  atmospheric 
pressure,  in  ascending  14,000  feet  in  eight  or  ten  hours,  a  spe- 
cial car-chamber  was  planned  to  contain  compressed  air  of  the 
density  at  sea  level.  The  difference  in  temperatures  is  greater 
than  by  the  other  routes.  In  winter  it  ma}'  be  below  0  Fahr.  at 
the  summit,  and  a  few  hours  later  at  Arica  it  may  be  86°, 
though  probably  less  if  arriving  at  evening.     Parlor  and  sleep- 


MT.    ILLAMPU,    21,750    FT.    FKOM    THE    PLATEAU,    13,000    FT. 


SOUATA    TOWN 


OTHER  REGIONS  OF  BOLIVIA  147 

ing  cars  are  provided  and  as  these  are  to  be  heated  there 
should  be  no  trouble  on  that  score.  Havint;  come  up  com- 
fortably one  is  not  likely  to  be  troubled  going  down.  If  in- 
clined to  see  a  mining  town  one  may  branch  off  to  Corocoro, 
six  miles  from  the  main  line,  a  place  of  about  15,000  people, 
long  famous  for  its  mines  of  copper  and  tin.  The  copper 
mines  have  been  called  the  richest  in  South  America.  The 
lodes  are  in  a  sandstone  formation  in  fine  grains  through  the 
matrix.  After  grinding  and  concentration  a  product  results, 
85  per  cent  pure.  The  Arica  road  has  jilanned  a  track  of  its 
own  from  Viacha  to  the  Altos  and  city  of  La  Paz,  by  the  route 
to  be  followed,  a  distance  of  22  miles. 

The  Jamiraya  Canon.  To  the  traveler  in  search  of  novelty 
outside  the  ])eateu  track,  and  to  the  scientist,  the  route  by  way 
of  Arica  affords  a  chance  to  visit  one  of  nature's  wonders, 
the  existence  of  which  is  unknown  to  most  Bolivians,  as  well 
as  to  the  rest  of  the  world.  This  is  a  remarkable  gorge  called 
the  Jamiraya  Canon,  of  which  I  received  definite  information 
from  two  English  scientists  who  had  just  visited  it.  In 
the  Lluta  Valley  some  distance  back  of  Arica,  it  is  a  few  miles 
south  of  the  railway  between  km.  92  and  132  of  the  line.  It 
is  best  visited  from  Arica  on  account  of  the  necessity  for 
arranging  in  advance  to  be  met  by  animals  at  the  station 
IMoleno,  tlie  terminus  of  a  branch  line  5-4  kms.  from  Arica. 
The  first  bivouac  may  be  made  in  Cata  27  kms.  distant,  from 
which  point  a  day's  ride  with  a  steep  climb  will  lead  to 
Socoroma,  where  night's  lodging  may  be  obtained  at  the  vil- 
lage store.  From  here  one  may  ride  down  into  the  canon  at 
Jamiraya  or  to  Ancolacalla,  returning  after  a  night  or  two 
at  the  bottom.  Both  places  are  desirable  to  visit,  but  it  is 
a  day's  journej'  from  one  to  the  other,  as  it  is  necessary  to 
go  to  the  top  and  come  down  again.  The  finer  scenery  is 
at  Ancolacalla  near  which  is  a  beautiful  waterfall.  It  is 
said  that  the  walls  of  the  canon  rival  if  they  do  not  surpass 
those  of  the  Yosemite,  being  six  or  seven  thousand  feet  in 
height,  often  very  sleep,  tlie  angle  varying  from  45  to  1)0°. 
At  the  bottom  the  canon  in  i)hices  is  but  two  or  three  meters 
wide,  and  at  the  top  from  a  lew  iuiiidi-iMJ  feet  to  possibly  ii 
mile.  At  Jamiraya  the  i-uiiis  of  huts  add  a  i)i>culiar  interest. 
The   walls,    which    are   of   varied    and    beautiful    colors,   are 

cA^A.  -^-^c."-^^  ^.r^^  .<v^-^ 


148  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

chiefly  volcanic  rock,  with  some  granite  on  the  floor.  Water 
should  he  carried,  as  that  at  the  bottom  of  the  gorge  is  bad. 
Few  covers  are  needed  as  in  the  depths  the  w^eather  is  warm. 

Other  Bolivian  Cities.  If  more  time  can  be  allotted  to 
Bolivia,  a  week  or  two  may  be  agreeably  spent  in  visiting  the 
cities  of  Cochabamba,  Potosi,  and  even  Sucre,  though  that  is 
more  remote.  The  newly  constructed  railway  125  miles  in 
length,  if  now  open  from  Oruro  to  Cochabamba,  will  make  the 
latter  easily  accessible.  This,  called  the  Garden  City  of  Bo- 
livia, was  founded  in  1574  in  a  beautiful  valley  on  the  east 
side  of  the  mountains,  here  called  the  Royal  Range.  Much 
wealth,  culture,  and  refinement  is  here  manifest,  as  well  as  in 
Sucre,  though  both  cities  have  been  so  remote  from  the  rest 
of  the  world. 

Cochabamba  with  its  suburbs  has  a  population  of  40,000  or 
more;  it  boasts  of  six  pretty  plazas,  adorned  Avith  trees  and 
flowers,  and  an  Alameda  with  five  divisions,  a  fashionable 
driveway.  There  are  handsome  public  buildings  and 
churches;  but  the  scenery  and  climate  are  the  chief  attrac- 
tions, and  a  complete  recompense  for  the  railway  journey 
from  Oruro. 

Potosi,  a  name  much  more  familiar  on  account  of  the  almost 
fabulous  wealth  of  which  it  has  been  the  source,  deserves  a 
visit  on  very  different  grounds.  Not  for  its  delightful  cli- 
mate, smiling  skies,  and  surroundings  of  placid  beauty,  but 
for  its  historic  associations,  the  remains  of  colonial  grandeur, 
and  for  its  impressive  if  more  gloomy  scenerj\  From  Rio 
Mulato,  130  miles  beyond  Oruro,  a  railway  has  been  recently 
built  to  this  ancient  city  105  miles  distant.  In  1545  it  was 
founded,  after  the  discovery  of  the  wonderful  silver  mines, 
which  according  to  a  moderate  estimate  have  yielded  about 
four  billion  dollars,  another  writer  says  one  billion,  up  to  the 
present  time.  It  is  related  that  one  man  paid  no  less  than  fif- 
teen million  dollars  as  tax  on  the  production  of  his  mine,  one- 
fifth  being  supposed  to  go  to  the  crown.  It  is  said  that  7000 
mines  have  been  opened  in  the  Cerro,  the  hill  back  of  the 
town,  700  of  which  are  being  worked  for  silver  and  tin  to-day. 
Great  extravagance  naturally  accompanied  the  production  of 
great  Avealth,  and  many  stories  are  told  of  the  expenditure  and 
display  of  riches  in  the  early  period.     At  one  time  the  city  had 


OTHER  REGIONS  OF  BOLIVIA  149 

a  population  of  150,000,  now  dwindled  to  about  25,000.  It 
contains  many  interesting  ruins  of  colonial  palaces  and 
churches,  including  a  finely  carved  tower  of  the  old  Jesuit 
church,  notable  carved  doorways  of  San  Lorenzo,  the  palace 
of  Don  Jose  de  Quiroz,  and  others.  The  Plaza  Pichincha 
contains  a  handsome  monument  to  the  Independence,  and  is 
bordered  by  several  public  buildings,  the  City  Hall,  and  the 
Pichincha  College.  A  Public  Library  and  ^luseum  are  of 
interest,  still  more  the  great  Casa  de  ]\Ioneda  or  Mint  cover- 
ing two  blocks. 

A  visit  to  the  top  of  the  famous  Cerro  may  be  made  on 
horseback.  A  splendid  view  is  enjoyed  from  the  summit.  Of 
extreme  interest  are  the  great  artificial  lakes  on  the  slopes, 
built  by  the  Spaniards  to  furnish  a  constant  water  supply 
for  the  working  of  the  mines.  The  construction  ol"  the  thirty- 
two  lakes  consumed  nearly  fifty  years,  the  largest  being  3 
miles  in  circumference  and  about  30  feet  deep.  Two  of  them 
are  at  an  altitude  of  16,000  feet.  Each  is  surrounded  by  five 
sets  of  walls,  all  together  about  30  or  40  feet  thick.  The  mines 
are  by  no  means  exhausted  and  with  the  opening  of  the  rail- 
way, mining  operations  will  doubtless  be  largely  increased. 

Sucre.  A  coach  road  100  miles  long  leads  from  Potosi  to 
Sucre,  the  nominal  capital  of  the  Republic,  which  will  soon 
be  connected  by  rail  with  tlie  region  of  the  west.  Tlie  city, 
pleasantly  located  among  the  liills  at  an  altitude  of  10,01)0 
feet,  is  noted  for  its  fine  climate  wliich  must  certainly  seem 
agreeable  to  a  resident  of  the  plateau  above.  In  fact  many 
of  the  wealthy  mine  owners  of  Potosi  in  former  days,  if  not 
at  the  present  time,  made  their  homes  here,  where  life  is 
much  more  enjoyable.  ]\Iade  the  capital  of  Bolivia  in  1S26 
it  still  has  the  name,  though  now  it  is  the  seat  only  of  the 
Supreme  Court  aiul  of  tlie  Areliieiuseopal  See;  the  Legislative 
and  Executive  I)ei)artments  of  (loverninent  being  at  La  Pa/. 
The  Legislative  Palace  of  Sucre  with  handsomely  decorated 
halls  still  remains,  there  is  a  stately  new  Government  Palace,  a 
Palace  of  Justiee,  the  I'niversity  of  San  Franeisco  Xavier, 
and  other  important  buildings.  Among  the  elnirehes,  the 
Metropolitan  Catiiedral  is  tlie  riehesl  in  Bolivia.  The  Virgin 
of  Guadalupe,  an  image  of  solid  gold,  with  its  rich  adornment 
of  jewels,  is  said  to  be   worth  a   million.     Among  the   nine 


150  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

plazas,  that  of  the  25  de  ]\layo  has  a  special  mark  of  distinc-tion 
in  the  fact  that  it  has  two  streams,  one  on  each  side,  one  of 
wliicli  flowing  northward  joins  the  Maiiiore  so  reaching  the 
Amazon,  wliile  the  otlier  tnrning  southeast  goes  on  to  the 
Pilcomayo  and  at  last  to  the  estuary  of  La  Plata. 

One  who  sees  only  the  plateau  region  of  Bolivia  knows 
but  a  small  part  of  the  country ;  the  section  east  of  the  Andes, 
now  becoming  aceessi])le,  is  far  more  attractive  and  within  a 
half  century  may  have  the  larger  part  of  the  population. 

From  La  Paz  to  Antofagasta.  The  remaining  route  from 
La  Paz  to  the  sea  will  be  followed  by  those  who  have  visited 
any  of  the  three  cities  last  mentioned,  the  old  road  by  Avay  of 
Oruro  to  the  southern  port,  Antofagasta,  though  not  until 
1908  was  the  railway  opened  between  Oruro  and  Viacha. 
Many  in  the  past  have  groaned  over  the  journey  which  for- 
merly involved  two  days  by  diligence  to  Oruro  and  three  by 
rail  to  Antofagasta,  but  since  the  introduction  of  sleeping 
cars  on  the  old  section  and  the  completion  of  the  new  the  trip 
may  be  made  in  48  hours.  Within  the  year  the  road  was 
expected  to  be  opened  from  Viacha  down  to  La  Paz,  an- 
other  great   improvement. 

Except  for  the  tine  view  of  Illimani  on  the  left  in  the 
early  part  of  the  journey,  the  ride  to  Oruro  is  of  no  great 
interest.  Some  tall  mud  built  piers  may  excite  curiosity: 
a  few  remaining  from,  those  erected  three  centuries  ago  which 
formerly,  it  is  said,  marked  the  entire  route  from  Lima  to 
Potosi.  Before  reaching  Oruro,  a  ride  of  about  seven  hours, 
a  snow-crowned  volcanic  peak  may  be  seen  at  the  southeast, 
Sajama,  with  an  alleged  altitude  of  22,700  feet.  A  possi- 
bility is  therefore  presented  of  its  overtopping  Aconcagua, 
or  like  Coropuna  turning  out  1000  feet  lower. 

At  the  station  Patacamaya  a  halt  was  formerly  made  for 
almuerzo.  Strange  to  say,  the  restaurant,  where  a  fair  meal 
was  served,  was  kept  by  an  American  and  his  wife  who  had 
been  living  there  about  twenty  years.  The  gentleman  re- 
marked that  he  was  contented,  doing  well,  and  had  no  desire 
to  return  to  the  States.  Fortunate  it  is  that  all  have  not  the 
same  tastes,  some  enjoying  the  warm  tropics,  some  the  desert, 
some  the  cool  plateau,  some  happy  only  in  large  cities,  and 
others  whom  the  solitary  places  please.     Many  who  go  down 


INDIANS    TR.\XSPOI{TI.\iJ    lltKlGHT 


PLAZA    AND    UUVEU.N.ME.NT    l'AL.\CE,    ORUKO 


OTHER  REGIONS  OP  BOLIVIA  151 

to  engage  in  railroad  eoiistruclion,  to  work  in  mines  or  smel- 
ter, or  even  to  fill  office  positions  in  cities,  soon  become  tired 
and  retui'n ;  otliers,  being  successful,  and  persons  of  more  ira- 
l)0itancc  than  they  would  be  at  liome,  are  glad  to  settle  perma- 
nently in  those  countries. 

Oruro  is  an  impoi-tnnt  mining  town  of  about  2U,000  people, 
with  a  very  good  hotel,  the  Union,  facing  the  pretty  Plaza. 
Arriving  on  Wednesday  or  Satui'day  at  Oruro,  one  may  the 
same  evening-  at  7.30  take  the  express  train  for  Antofagasta,  a 
ride  of  36  hours.  The  plateau  seems  rather  dreary  and  only 
those  who  have  an  interest  in  mining  matters  will  care  to  stay 
over.  The  various  mines  on  the  outskirts  of  the  city  produce 
both  silver  and  tin.  There  are  many  foreign  residents 
with  several  clubs  and  life  is  not  so  dismal  as  may  at  first 
glance  appear,  although  the  climate  at  this  altitude  of  12,500 
feet  in  the  exposed  position  on  the  plain  is  a  trifle  raw.  The 
Government  Palace  and  the  University  building  face  the 
Plaza,  and  the  city  boasts  of  a  theater,  a  public  library, 
and  a  mineralogical  museum,  as  well  as  the  usual  churches, 
hospitals,  and  schools.  Oruro  was  noted  during  the  colonial 
])eriod  as  next  to  Potosi  in  the  richness  and  production  of  its 
mines  and  in  1678  is  said  to  have  had  76,000  inhabitants. 
In  the  immediate  vicinity  are  half  a  dozen  mines,  formerly 
great  silver  producers,  but  now  worked  chiefly  though  not 
entirely  for  tin.  The  San  Jose  mine,  two  miles  from  the 
town,  several  years  ago  was  yielding  $55,000  a  month  in 
tin  and  silver.  It  is  an  interesting  place  to  visit,  employ- 
ing 1000  or  more  people  and  ecjuipped  with  the  best  of  modern 
machinery.  There  are  workings  1000  feet  deep.  The  Soeavon 
de  la  Virgen,  nearer  the  city,  is  one  of  the  oldest  of  Bolivia. 
In  all  four  provinces  of  this  Department  are  rich  tin  mines. 
The  ore  is  treated  by  grinding  and  concentration,  the  product 
exported  averaging  about  64  per  cent  tin.  Copper  also  is 
found,  and  larther  south  boi'ax,  and  metals  ol"  almost  every 
kind. 

Por  the  tlirough  journey  1<»  Anlol'auasla,  staterooms  should 
be  engaged  in  advance  at  La  Paz.  The  road  from  Oruro  to 
Antofagasta  which  was  of  very  narrow  gauge,  2'j  feet,  the 
nai-rowest  in  the  woi'id  on  a  road  for  general  tratHic,  is  now 
being   widened.      The    work    has   been    completed    as   far   as 


152  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

Uyuni,  so  that  now  one  changes  sleepers  at  this  point,  about 
midway  of  the  journey,  when  going  in  either  direction.  In 
a  dining  car  meals  are  served,  almuerzo  and  dinner,  very 
poor  for  tlie  price,  a  dollar  or  more  each.  [Morning  coffee 
may  be  had  in  one's  stateroom.  These  are  fair!}'  comfortable 
in  the  newer  coaches  of  the  broader  gauge,  and  are  provided 
with  plenty  of  blankets,  yet  it  is  well  to  carry  a  traveling 
rug  which  will  be  useful  on  the  highlands  as  well  as  on  the 
steamers. 

Traveling  from  Oruro  at  night  one  misses  the  sight  of 
Lake  Poopo.  Poopo  is  a  curious  shallow,  salt,  and  turbid 
lake  with  no  visible  outlet,  fed  by  the  Desaguadero  River 
from  Lake  Titieaca.  Although  2-4  by  53  miles  in  extent  it 
is  at  most  but  9  feet  deep,  often  less  than  5.  and  seems  to  be 
shrinking.  In  this  dry  air  and  strong  sunshine  the  water  may 
in  time  disappear,  leaving  only  a  bed  of  salt. 

Uyuni,  from  which  the  railway  is  now  being  continued  to 
Tupiza,  125  miles  be.yond  on  the  Pan  American  route  to  Argen- 
tina, is  also  passed  in  the  night.  From  Tupiza  it  is  hardly  60 
miles  to  La  Quiaca  which  was  reached  by  the  Argentine  Rail- 
way several  years  ago.  A  few  miles  from  Uyuni  are  the  Pula- 
cayo  and  Huanchaca  mines  which  have  produced  within  thf 
last  quarter  century  about  5000  tons  of  silver.  The  section 
ranks  as  the  second  silver  district  in  the  world  (the  first  is 
Broken  Bow,  Australia) .  Electricity  is  here  the  motor  power ; 
Corliss  engines  render  service;  several  thousand  men  and 
women  are  employed,  the  latter  sorting  ore  with  wonderful 
accuracy. 

The  day  following  is  spent  among  the  desert  mountains.  The 
hills  are  red,  yellow,  white,  and  gray,  dotted  with  black 
cinders.  Volcanoes  are  numerous,  mostly  extinct  but  show- 
ing perfect  cones  against  the  blue  of  the  sky.  Large  level 
sheets  of  saline  material  are  frequent.  Some  jagged  hills 
have  streaks,  blood-red  or  chrome-yellow.  The  volcano  San 
Pedro,  17,170  feet,  may  be  smoking.  From  a  smaller  cone, 
Porufia,  at  its  side,  stretches  a  great  stream  of  lava,  like  a 
glacier,  half  a  mile  wide  and  several  long,  through  which  in 
a  cutting  the  railroad  passes.  Just  before  dark,  close  to  the 
Conchi  station,  the  train  crosses  a  viaduct  336  feet  above  the 
Loa  River,  more  than  twice  as  high  as  the  celebrated  Forth 


OTHER  REGIONS  OF  BOLIVIA  153 

Bridge.    It  is  a  graceful  steel  structure  with  six  lattice  girder 
spaus  of  80  feet  each,  on  steel  towers. 

Early  the  second  morning  one  arrives  at  Antofagasta.  In 
1916  there  were  seiui-weckly  through  trains  in  hoth  directions 
between  this  city  and  La  i*az. 


CHAPTER  XVI 
THE  CHILIAN  COAST— ARICA  TO  VALPARAISO 

Arica.  Arriving  at  Arica  by  sea,  or  departing  as  well,  one 
may  observe  in  great  wbite  letters  on  the  rocky  ^lorro,  Viva 
Jiatallun  No.  4,  commemorating  the  Chilian  victory  with  its 
massacre  of  Peruvians,  June  7,  1880.  The  1700  Peruvians 
here  stationed,  whose  cannon  were  directed  towards  the  sea, 
suffered  an  assault  in  the  rear  from  4000  Chilians  who  had 
landed  at  night  several  miles  below.  Short  of  small  arms  and 
ammunition,  after  an  heroic  defense  for  one  hour,  the  com- 
mander, Col.  Bolognesi,  perished  having  used  his  last  cart- 
ridge, and  many  soldiers  leaped  to  the  rocks  by  the  sea,  who 
preferred  this  death  to  having  their  throats  cut  by  the  Chil- 
ians. Others  were  crowded  off  by  Chilian  bayonets,  and 
for  months  the  bodies  were  seen  below.  No  prisoners  were 
taken,  the  entire  garrison  of  1700  being  slaughtered. 

The  harbor,  one  of  the  best  south  of  Callao,  is  called  by 
one  writer  the  emerald  gem  of  the  West  Coast,  on  account  of 
its  green  trees  and  other  verdure.  The  line  of  railway  may 
be  seen  among  the  cliffs,  and  a  great  cross  on  the  highest  hill- 
top. The  town  is  called  by  one  person  very  squalid,  by  an- 
other a  neat,  attractive  place  in  comparison  with  most  of  tne 
port  cities,  the  houses  of  various  colors,  blue,  green,  orange, 
etc.,  many  with  arched  entrances  affording  pleasing  views  of 
an  inner  patio.  On  account  of  earthquakes  the  buildings 
are  chiefly  of  one  story,  many  of  corrugated  iron.  The  most 
noted  of  the  'quakes  was  that  of  1868  when  two  United  States 
frigates  were  in  the  harbor.  One  of  these,  the  Freedonia, 
was  lost  with  all  on  board ;  the  other,  the  Watet-ce,  by  a  waye 
60  feet  high,  was  carried  over  houses  a  mile  inland,  suffering 
a  loss  of  half  the  crew.  The  ship  there  became  the  home  of 
several  Indian  families,  until  the  next  earthquake  and  wave 
carried  it  back  to  the  beach  Avithout  doing  injury  to  the  oc- 

154 


THE  CHILIAN  COAST  155 

cupants.  Rarely  from  tlie  liar])or  may  be  had  a  beautiful 
sunset  view  of  snow-crowned  Mt.  Taeora,  19,000  feet,  tliou^h 
other  mountains  are  frequently  seen.  In  this  port  Ilernaiido 
Pizarro  built  shijis  for  the  invasion  of  Chile.  On  the  ])road 
beacli  is  a  prehistoric  cemetery  with  embalmed  mummies,  said 
to  be  equal  to  those  of  Egypt.  Some  of  the  eyes  are  translu- 
cent with  a  rich  amber  tint,  which  scientists  say  are  of  squid 
or  cuttle-fish  here  numerous,  substituted  for  the  eyes  of  the 
dead.  It  is  said  that  when  some  of  these  were  sent  to  Tif- 
fany's ill  New  York  to  be  polished,  the  workmen  suffered  a 
violent  irritation  of  the  eyes,  lips,  nostrils,  and  tliroat. 
Though  all  recovered,  the  work  was  not  resumed.  An  analy- 
sis showed  animal  matter  with  saltpeter  and  unknown  miner- 
als. 

It  is  believed  that  along  here  is  a  subterranean  outlet  of 
Lake  Poopo,  as  the  fresh  water  fish  of  Lake  Titieaea,  pcccajay, 
are  caught  in  the  ocean,  and  driftwood  of  the  mountain  vege- 
tation appears.  Forinerl}^  Arica  Avas  a  great  market  for 
vicuna  skins,  which  were  brought  down  from  the  interior, 
but  their  number  has  now  greatly  diminished.  A  highway 
constructed  by  the  Incas  1000  years  ago,  called  the  camino 
real,  has  been  in  use  ever  since,  the  Bolivians,  even  after  the 
construction  of  the  railroad  to  ]Mollendo,  still  using  it  to 
liriiig  down  ore  by  means  of  llamas  and  burros  and  to  carry  ui) 
su])i)lies.  The  new  railroad  may  not  cause  a  complete  disuse 
of  the  old  route,  as  the  carriage  of  freight  by  a  road  of  so 
iieavy  a  grade  is  likely  to  be  expensive. 

Tacna,  38  miles  distant,  capital  of  the  province,  connected 
by  rail  with  Arica,  is  a  pretty  and  a  larger  city,  woi-tliy  a 
visit.  The  prosperity  of  tliis  section  has  ])een  delayed  li\ 
11i(»  friction  and  hostile  feeling  between  the  Peruvian  and 
Cliilian  Governments  and  peoples,  resulting  from  the  unfor- 
tunate war  1879-1883,  and  the  unsettled  conditions  following. 
The  Tacna-Arica  (pu'slion  has  lieen  one  of  grcalt-r  Itittt-riK'ss 
than  that  of  Alsace-Lorraine;  tiie  present  arrangement,  to 
l)Ostpone  the  plcbiscile  twenty-one  years,  will  be  greatly  to 
tiie  advantage  of  both  countries.  On  the  desert  between  the 
two  cities  is  often  an  unusual  elTect  of  mirage,  and  from 
Tacna  there  is  a  mountain  view  of  much  grandeur. 

Iquique.     The  next  important  port  south  of  Arica  is  Icpii- 


156  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

que,  but  between  the  two  is  Pisagua  where  many  boats  call, 
affording  opportunity  for  any  who  desire,  to  disembark  and 
go  124  miles  by  rail  to  Iquique,  thus  to  see  without  loss  of 
time  something  of  the  rich  nitrate  lands  of  Tarapaca.  This 
part  of  the  coast  may  not  look  very  different  from  much  of 
the  Peruvian,  yet  it  is  still  more  of  a  desert ;  for  the  Peruvian 
will  blossom  like  a  rose,  with  a  sufficient  water  supply,  while 
this  is  less  easily  transformed.  In  Liuique,  gardens  and 
plazas  have  been  made  by  bringing  from  a  distance  artificial 
soil  for  the  trees,  shrubs,  and  plants,  which  must  be  care- 
fully nurtured.  The  nitrate  ports  are  said  to  look  like  west- 
ern mining  towns,  with  wide  streets,  and  one-story  houses 
made  from  Oregon  lumber,  with  iron  roofs.  There  are  many 
shops  selling  much  liquor  and  canned  stuffs.  The  streets 
were  formerly  dusty,  the  air  full  of  sand.  Unnatural  tastes 
were  developed  by  the  conditions.  Two  miners  in  earlier  days, 
wishing  to  enjoy  a  feast,  sat  down  with  two  cans  of  pate 
d.e  foic  gras,  a  loaf  of  bread,  a  bottle  of  brandy,  and  two  cans 
of  condensed  milk,  the  last  being  eaten  with  spoons  as  des- 
sert. 

Iquique.  Hotels,  Phoenix,  8  to  15  pesos,  Europa,  7  to  15, 
Grand,  6  to  10.  all  A.  P.  Long  the  leading  Chilian  port  for 
the  nitrate  industry,  it  is  now  surpassed  in  this  specialty  by 
Antofagasta.  With  a  population  of  50,000,  called  a  fine  city,  it 
has  an  enormous  commerce  for  its  size,  not  merely  from  the 
export  of  nitrates  but  because  it  is  unique  in  having  all  its 
supplies  brought  in  by  sea,  food,  fuel,  and  formerly  water. 
The  port  receives  more  than  1000  vessels  a  year.  The  popula- 
tion is  rather  rough  and  hard  to  govern,  though  with  a  circle 
of  aristocratic  society,  with  the  usual  accessories.  The  Arturo 
Prat  Plaza  with  a  statue  of  the  hero  in  the  center  is  an  at- 
tractive place.  One  may  here  first  observe  women  conductors 
on  the  street  cars,  many  of  whom  will  be  seen  in  other  Chilian 
cities. 

Water,  formerly,  when  brought  by  sea,  10  cents  a  gallon 
and  at  times  $2.00  when  the  supply  boat  was  overdue,  now 
comes  from  the  mountains,  a  distance  of  148  miles,  by  a  10 
or  12-inch  pipe,  partly  on  the  surface  of  the  desert,  or  buried 
two  or  three  feet.  To  Antofagasta  water  is  brought  173  miles 
from  a  point  10,700  feet  above  the  sea;  to  Taltal,  102  miles. 


THE  CHILIAX  COAST  157 

Though  expensive,  costing  millions,  it  has  proved  profitable. 
The  streets  of  Iquique  are  now  piped,  hydrants  protect 
against  fire,  the  dust  is  laid  by  sprinklers,  some  people  have 
bathrooms,  a  few,  fountains  in  patios,  a  costly  luxury.  It 
was  once  said  that  people  drank  chainpa^'ue  liecause  wattT 
was  too  expensive.  It  is  an  entez-prising  community  with  a 
good  portion  of  Anglo-Saxons;  there  are  broad  streets,  fine 
churches,  schools,  hospitals,  a  large  theater,  pleasant  homes, 
and  good  CIuIjs.  Some  of  the  people  entertain  sumptuously, 
with  dinner  parties  as  in  London.  A  broad  driveway  along 
the  beach  leads  to  Cavancha,  an  attractive  resort  with  a 
dancing  pavilion,  and  a  choice  flower  garden  tended  with  ut- 
most care.  Halfway  is  the  Jockey  Club-house,  with  race 
track,  tennis,  and  bowling. 

A  railway  climbs  the  variously  colored  mountain  back  of 
J(iuique  to  the  Pampa  of  Tamarugal,  Avhere  it  branches  to 
various  oficinas,  interesting  to  visit  if  time  allows.  People 
who  are  born  and  have  lived  in  this  section  can  hardly  be- 
lieve stories  about  grass  that  has  to  be  cut,  and  of  trees  and 
flowers.  A  girl  of  sixteen  who  had  visited  Santiago  on  her 
retui-n  said,  "Trees,  trees,  everywhere,  grass  growing  in  a 
thick  mat,  and  hundreds  of  flowers!     A  perfect  paradise!" 

The  valuable  nitrate  lands  which,  previous  to  the  war,  be- 
longed to  Peru  and  Bolivia  are  now  the  chief  source  of  Chile's 
wealth.  Yet  it  is  a  curious  fact  that  though  Chile  receives 
from  her  export  tax  on  nitrates  the  large  sum  of  $13,700,000 
annually,  the  finances  of  the  country,  if  they  may  be  judged 
by  the  currency,  are  in  a  poorer  condition  than  those  of  Peru, 
where  with  a  firm  gold  basis  gold  and  silver  coins  are  used, 
wliile  in  Chile  there  is  paper  money  of  low  and  fluctuating 
value. 

The  nitrate  deposits  are  found  in  tiie  thi'ce  provinces  of 
Tarapaca,  Antofagasta,  and  Atacania,  along  from  Pisagna  to 
C()(|uimbo,  about  800  miles.  The  deposits  with  an  average 
width  of  2Vli  miles  are  between  the  coast  hills  and  the  And»'s, 
30  to  80  miles  from  the  sea,  and  from  2000  to  ')()()()  or  more 
feet  above  it.s  level,  covering  a  tract  of  about  2r)().0()()  acres. 
The  deposits,  sometimes  on  the  surface,  are  oftener  overlaid 
with  strata  of  earth  varying  in  thickness  and  character,  oc- 
casionally with  guano.     They  are  not  continuous,   but   sep- 


158  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

aratcd  by  other  deposits,  in  some  places  salt.  The  raw  mate- 
rial called  caliche  carries  usually  from  20  to  65  per  cent  of  ni- 
trate of  soda.  It  is  pickled  in  tanks  from  eight  to  twelve 
hours,  the  sand  and  refuse  droppin<j;  to  the  bottom.  The  liquid 
called  caJdo  runs  off  into  vats.  The  salt  by-product  is  used 
or  diseai"ded.  When  treated  and  ready  for  export  the  article 
carries  15  to  16  per  cent  of  nitrogen  and  36  per  cent  of  so- 
dium. The  amount  of  production  was  formerly  regulated  by 
a  syndicate,  according  to  reciuirements.  About  '.ioSHH)  men 
are  employed,  the  laborers  earning  from  $1.00  to  $2.00  a 
day.  These  establishments,  called  oficinas,  are  interesting  to 
visit,  but  it  is  a  gloomy,  depressing  region  for  most  persons. 
The  superintendents,  doctors,  and  other  officials  receive  good 
salaries  and  are  supplied  with  comfortable  quarters.  $100,- 
000,000  or  more  of  British  capital  and  some  German,  is 
invested  here  and  large  fortunes  have  been  made.  New 
nitrate  fields  recently  discovered  are  held  at  $2000  an  acre. 

The  nitrate  of  commerce  is  a  white  cheese-like  substance 
from  which  the  highest  grade  gunpowder  is  made;  it  is  also 
used  in  chemical  works  to  produce  nitric  and  sulphuric  acid, 
etc.,  but  the  bulk  of  it  is  employed  as  a  fertilizer,  doubling  or 
tripling  the  harvest.  A  mineral  substance,  it  is  distinguished 
from  guano,  the  excrement  of  birds.  As  to  its  origin  there 
are  various  theories,  but  none  is  generally  accepted.  A  by- 
product, a  yellow  liquor,  which  in  its  preparation  is  drawn  off 
from  the  nitrate  into  a  crucible,  is  then  chemically  treated, 
poured  into  smaller  pans,  and  on  cooling  leaves  on  the  dish 
a  blue  crystal,  the  iodine  of  commerce,  which  costs  as  much 
per  ounce  as  saltpetre  per  100  lbs.  The  casks  in  which  it  is 
placed  are  covered  with  green  hides  which  shrink  and  keep 
out  the  moisture.  Worth  $700  to  $800  a  cask,  the  iodine  is 
shipped  in  the  treasure  vaults  with  bullion.  About  40  per 
cent  of  the  nitrate  goes  to  Germany,  30  to  the  United  States, 
20  to  France,  the  rest  to  Great  Britian  and  Belgium. 

Antofagasta.  The  next  port,  200  miles  below  Iquique,  at 
which  express  boats  call,  is  Antofagasta,  the  terminus  of  the 
other  railway  from  Bolivia,  via  Oruro.  Here  are  sea-lions, 
diving  birds,  and  a  considerable  town,  but  no  sheltered  harbor, 
in  spite  of  which  much  commerce  is  carried  on.  This,  ^\'itll 
Iquique,  as  a  poor  port,  almost  rivals  jMolIendo.     One  writer 


THE  CHILIAN  COAST  159 

says  it  is  an  ugly  duu-colored  place,  auothcr  that  it  is  tlie 
prettiest  town  since  leaving  l^anaina.  It  has  an  air  of  pros- 
perity with  good  shops  and  business  houses,  a  coiiit'ortahle 
hotel,  the  Grand,  A.  P.,  7  to  20  pesos,  well  furnished  rooms, 
and  real  milk ;  a  grumbler  says  the  hotel  is  very  bad.  Much  de- 
pends upon  one's  disposition,  ])oint  of  view,  what  he  expects, 
and  where  he  has  come  from ;  and  you  may  read  exactly  op- 
posite opinions  of  many  i)laces  and  people,  as  happens  even 
of  cities  in  the  United  States.  From  Antofagasta  nuich 
copper  is  now  exported  from  the  large  new  American  plant 
at  Chuquicamata. 

Caldera,  207  miles  south  of  Antofaga.sta,  has  a  sheltered 
harbor,  and  the  oldest  railway  in  South  America  connecting  it 
with  the  town  of  Copiapo ;  but  express  boats  call  only  at  Co- 
quimbo,  200  miles  farther  and  200  north  of  Valparaiso. 

Coquimbo,  at  the  end  of  the  desert  country,  a  busy  port, 
is  situated  at  the  foot  and  up  the  side  of  cliffs.  The  country 
around  is  very  rich  in  fossils.  At  Herradura  on  Ilorseslioe 
Bay  was  found  a  petrified  icthyosaurus  20  feet  long,  which 
visitors  are  taken  to  see;  they  are  informed  tliat  it  is  12,000 
years  old.  Above  in  the  mountains,  at  an  altitude  of  4000 
feet,  is  a  very  sacred  shrine,  a  Virgin  of  the  Kosary,  at  a 
small  village  called  Andacollo,  During  Christmas  week  pil- 
grims come  by  thousjinds  from  all  pai-ts  of  the  country,  even 
from  Peru  and  Argentina,  some  walking  hundreds  of  miles. 
Precious  gifts  and  jewels  valued  at  hundreds  of  thousands  of 
dollars  have  been  i)resented  at  various  times. 

One  day's  sail  from  Co(iuimbo  is  Valparaiso. 

Chile.  The  count ly  of  Chile  is  very  j)eeuliar;  let  me 
hasten  to  add,  in  nothing  more  serious  than  its  shape.  It  is 
indeed  excessively  long  and  narrow,  its  great  extent  from 
north  to  south,  18°  to  56°  S.  Lat.,  a  distance  of  nearly  :{000 
miles,  giving  it  a  remarkable  variety  of  productions  and 
making  it  larger  than  any  lOurojx'an  count ly  except  Kussia, 
although  it  is  only  from  100  to  300  niih's  wide.  It  is  ])ee\iliar 
also  that  in  spite  of  its  scanty  width,  it  is  divided  into  three 
nari-ower  strips,  a  low  Coast  Range,  a  longitudinal  valley  or 
plateau,  and  the  high  range  of  the  Andes.  With  pi-aelieally 
no  rain  in  the  north,  it  has  a  gradually  inei'easing  rainfall  to- 
wards the  south,  till   near  the  exti-eiiiily  there  is  rather  too 


160  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

much.  The  northern  part  is  tlie  nitrate  and  mining  section: 
the  central  and  larger  part  is  an  agricultural  zone  of  great 
possibilities,  with  good  pasturage  area ;  while  farther  south  is 
an  excellent  forest  region.  There  must  obviously  be  a  great 
variety  of  scenery  as  well  as  of  climate,  so  that  in  one  section 
or  another  all  tastes  may  be  gratified. 

Chile  was  first  invaded  by  Europeans  soon  after  the  founding  of 
Lima  in  1535.  To  Pizarro,  Charles  V,  on  hearing  of  the  conquest, 
had  given  the  countiy  seventy  leagues  south  of  that  previously  be- 
stowed; to  Diego  de  Almagro  the  two  hundred  leagues  beyond.  In 
which  section  lay  Cuzco  was  a  matter  of  dispute.  Pending  its  set- 
tlement Almagro  decided  to  conquer  the  remainder  of  his  province. 
That  this  region  was  richer  in  gold  and  silver  than  Peru  was  doubt- 
less a  tale  of  the  Incas  to  distract  the  conquerors  for  their  own  ad- 
vantage. However,  with  an  army  of  Spaniards  and  some  Indian 
captives,  Almagro  set  out  over  the  Bolivian  plateau  to  investigate 
and  take  possession  of  the  unknown  eountr3^  On  the  barren  heights 
they  sutfered  hunger,  cold,  and  mountain  sickness,  the  difficulties  of 
this  terrible  journey  in  many  ways  surpassing  those  of  Hannibal 
and  Napoleon  in  crossing  the  Alps.  Failure  and  disappointment 
were  the  only  results  of  the  exi^edition,  which  was  followed  by 
the  execution   of  the  gallant   leader  after  his  return  to  Cuzco. 

In  spite  of  AlmagTo's  disastrous  experience,  a  second  expedition 
was  inaugurated  by  Pedro  de  Yaldivia,  who  jDroceeded  along  the 
desert  shore,  instead  of  over  the  plateau,  and  after  arriving  at 
Arica,  there  constructed  vessels  to  pursue  the  journey.  "With  no 
gxeat  loss,  in  December,  1540,  he  reached  the  valley  of  the  Mapocho, 
and  selecting  a  favorable  site,  on  Februaiy  12,  1541,  he  proclaimed  a 
new  city:  Santiago,  for  Spain's  patron  saint,  de  la  Nueva  Estre- 
madiira,  from  his  native  province.  On  the  Plaza  de  Armas  was 
built  a  small  chapel  and  a  Cahildo  or  Municipal  Council  Chamber, 
as  well. 

Still  unsatisfied  Yaldivia  pursued  his  explorations  southward,  be- 
yond the  Bio-Bio  River.  In  his  absence  the  small  garrison  he  had 
left  behind  barely  escaped  destruction,  being  saved  only  by  the 
valor  and  boldness  of  the  solitaiy  woman  in  the  party.  Dona  Ines 
de  Suarez.  The  Araucanians,  the  most  powerful  tribe  in  this  sec- 
tion, were  of  different  caliber  from  the  Quichuas.  and  long  and 
fiercely  they  continued  the  struggle  against  the  invaders,  who  treated 
them  with  barbarous  severity.  After  the  founding  of  Concepcion, 
Imperial,  Villa  Kica,  and  Yaldivia,  and  the  settling  of  the  con- 
queror himself  at  the  town  of  Concepcion,  the  Indians  under  the 
command  of  Lautaro,  who   as  a  servant   of  Yaldivia  had   learned 


THE  CHILIAN  COAST  IGl 

sonielliing  of  Spanish  methods,  attacked  and  defeated  the  Si)an- 
iards,  captunng-  Valdivia  and  putting  him  to  death  with  tortures. 
After  long-continued  warfare  a  truce  was  established,  with  the 
Bio-Bio  Kiver  as  the  boundaiy  line,  but  for  two  hundred  and  tifty 
years  the  contest  went  on  for  the  subjugation  of  the  natives.  At  last, 
when  tiie  Chilians  rose  against  8i)ain,  the  Araucanians  lent  assist- 
ance, and  friendliness  was  established.  As  in  other  lands,  liowever, 
civilization  of  a  sort  proved  too  much  for  the  Indians  and  few  of 
pure  blood  remain. 

On  the  IGth  of  June,  1810,  the  movement  for  indei)endence  be- 
gan with  the  abdication  of  the  Governor,  Carrasco,  on  account  of 
ditticulty  between  himself  and  the  Real  Audiencia.  September  18, 
ISIO,  the  Cabildo  or  City  Council  in  open  session  elected  a  Junta  to 
govern  until  a  National  Congress  should  be  convoked,  ostensibly 
for  the  puri)ose  of  holding  the  dominion  for  King  Ferdinand,  de- 
posed by  Napoleon.  The  people  regarding  this  as  the  birth  of 
their  independence  were  filled  with  joy.  An  array  subsequently 
sent  from  Spain  landed  at  Concepcion,  marched  northward  i-e- 
cruiting  royalists,  and  after  several  engagements  finally  put  to 
rout  the  patriots,  who  were  commanded  by  Bernardo  O'lliggins 
assisted  by  Colonel  Juan  Mackenna.  October  16,  1S14,  General 
Osorio  with  the  Spanish  army  entered  Santiago  and  there  main- 
tained Spanish  rule  for  three  years  longer.  General  O'lliggins 
meanwhile  lied  to  IMendoza  in  Argentina  to  join  the  army  whicii  was 
being  organized  in  that  city  by  General  San  ^lartin  for  the  ex- 
pulsion of  the  Spanish  power  from  the  entire  continent.  Three 
years  were  required  for  this  work.  In  Januarj',  1S17,  the  in- 
vasion of  Chile  from  Argentina  was  begun  by  a  well-drilled  army 
of  5000  men,  IGOO  hcn-ses,  and  many  pack  nmles.  One  division 
came  l)y  the  Usjiallata  Pass,  along  the  coach  route  across  the 
Cordilleras,  and  the  one  followed  by  Almagro  almost  three  cen- 
turies earlier.  A  second  division  under  San  ^Martin  came  by 
the  lower  Los  Patos  Pass.  The  two  divisions,  having  united  on 
February  12,  gained  a  complete  victory  over  the  royalists  in  the 
famous  battle  of  Chacabuco,  and  February  14  entere«l  Santi- 
ago. The  enthusiastic  and  grateful  Chilians  now  otTered  to  San 
Martin  the  governorship  of  the  countiy.  This  unsellish  patriot 
declining  the  honor,  an  assembly,  February  17.  appointed  General 
O'lliggins  Dictator,  thus  concluding  the  so-called  Hecon(iuista  or 
Kecoiuiuest  of  Chile.  However,  tmubh's  were  in)t  over.  The 
Viceroy  of  Peru  sent  General  Osorio  again  to  Chile.  Landing  at 
Talcahuano  in  the  s(Uith  he  was  able  to  advance  with  his  army, 
after  defeating  O'lliggins,  until  he  ai)proached  Santiagct;  but  on 
the   plain   of   Maipo,   April   5,   1S18,   San    Martin   again   gained   a 


162  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

decisive  victory.  Mcaiiwliile  on  (lie  anniversary  of  the  battle  of 
Cliacabiico  the  Act  of  JniU'^eiulence  was  read  in  tlie  Plaza  of  San- 
tiaj^o,  and  the  oath  was  taken  by  the  leaders.  The  United  States 
was  the  first  nation  to  recoj^nize  the  Republic.  A  navy  was  soon 
formed  and  with  the  aid  of  Admiral  Lord  Cochrane,  a  squadron  of 
eight  wai'ships  and  sixteen  transports  in  1820  carried  north  the 
army  of  San  Martin  for  the  conquest  of  Peru. 

In  1823  General  O'Higgins  was  obliged  to  resign  his  Dictator- 
ship and  a  period  of  confusion  followed.  In  1833  a  constitution 
was  adojited.  In  the  administration  of  Manuel  Montt  in  the  fifties 
railway  construction  was  inaugurated.  In  that  of  President  Pinto 
occurred  the  War  of  the  Pacific  with  Peru  and  Bolivia,  1879-81, 
though  the  treaty  of  peace  was  not  signed  till  1883,  when  the 
province  of  Tarapaca  was  ceded  to  Chile,  and  occupation  for  ten 
years  was  arranged  for  Taona  and  Arica.  About  the  same  time  a 
boundary  treaty  was  concluded  with  Argentina,  with  which  nation 
Chile  had  been  on  the  verge  of  war.  Balniaceda,  elected  President 
in  1886,  instituted  many  reforms  but  by  his  arbitrary  methods 
brought  on  civil  war.  A  vietoiy  by  the  constitutional  party  was  fol- 
lowed by  Balmaceda's  suicide. 

The  unfortunate  death  of  the  able  President  Montt  in  1910  was 
succeeded  by  the  election  of  the  present  incumbent,  Ramon  Barros 
Luco.  Among  the  prominent  Chilian  families  (it  bas  been  said 
that  one  hundred  of  these  govern  the  country),  are  many  British 
names,  the  forbears  of  these  having  married  into  the  best  Spanish 
American  families  and  become  patriotic  citizens  of  their  adopted 
country. 


CHAPTER  XVII 

VALPARAISO 

Hotels.  Royal,  A.  P.,  12  to  25  pesos;  Grand,  A.  P.,  10-1')  jusus; 
Palace,  about  the  same  or  a  trifle  less;  Colon,  G  to  12  pesos.  All 
higher  in  summer. 

Money.  The  Chilian  peso,  paper,  varies  in  value  from  17  to  25 
cents  more  or  less. 

Chief  Points  of  Interest.  The  Monument  and  the  Government 
Palace  near  the  landing';  tiie  business  streets;  Plaza  Victoria  and  tiie 
church  facing  it;  the  Av.  Brazil  with  the  British  Monument;  the 
Naval  School;  the  English  and  tiie  Spanish  American  Cemeteries  on 
the  heights,  these  with  the  Naval  School  reached  by  ascensoi-s;  and 
the  suhuil)  \\i\-A  (Id  i\I;ii'. 

Valparaiso,  Vale  of  Paradise,  the  largest  and  busiest  port 
on  the  Paeifie  south  of  San  Franeiseo,  like  many  others  aions 
this  coast,  has  no  real  harbor.  The  spacious  senii-cin-ular 
roadstead  lies  open  to  the  wintry  northers  whieli  occasionally 
bring  terrific  storms.  On  such  occasions,  ships  at  anchor  in 
the  bay  to  escape  the  fury  of  the  waves  often  steam  for  the 
open  sea,  lest  they  be  driven  ashore  or  be  overwhelmed  in  the 
deep,  as  has  several  times  happened  to  ocean  steamers.  In 
the  summer  there  is  no  danger,  and  after  the  completion  of 
the  breakwater  designed  to  protect  tlic  ])ay  from  the  savage 
force  of  the  tempestuous  sea,  it  will  lie  sale  at  any  time.  Tlu' 
great  depth  of  the  water  a  shoi't  distance  from  shore  renders 
the  construction  dilTicnlt,  I)\it  satislaclory  plans  at  length 
were  devised  and  in  October,  1!I12,  work  was  begun  on  the  port 
improvements  wliieh  besides  the  bi'eakwater  !»ir)  feet  long 
will  include  additional  docks.  TIkpsc  in  existence  are  sadly 
inadeciuate   fur  the  vast  eonnnen-ial    nu)Vement    at   this  ]u)r\. 

While  from  a  business  point  of  view  the  harbor  at  present  is 
poor,  from  the  deck  of  a  steamer  or  fiom  the  hills  above  the 

1G:J 


Ifi4    '  TIIH  SOUTir  AMERICAN  TOT^R 

town,  there  is  a  busy  and  a  l)eautifiil  scene.  Scattered  over  the 
waters  are  hundreds  of  vessels  of  various  shapes  and  of  every 
size,  some  from  the  farthest  corners  of  the  globe,  showing 
flags  of  many  nations  (probably  none  of  the  United  States), 
others  mere  lighters  or  rowboats  to  transport  freight  or 
passengers  from  ship  to  shore.  Around  the  bay,  a  few  rods 
back  fi-om  the  water,  rise  in  a  semi-circle  steep  hills  or  cliffs 
to  a  height  of  1000  feet  or  more.  Farther  back,  more  lofty 
ridges  are  seen,  and  it  is  said  that  on  a  clear  day  in  the 
far  distance  may  be  descried,  in  the  sharp  toothed  ridge  which 
forms  the  backbone  of  the  continent,  the  snow-flecked  peak 
of  Aconcagua. 

On  the  narrow  strip  of  shore  between  the  sea  and  the  hills, 
varying  in  width  from  two  blocks  to  half  a  mile,  is  the  sub- 
stantial business  section  of  the  city ;  while  climbing  up  the 
slopes  and  crowning  the  hilltops  is  most  of  the  residence 
portion,  both  the  fine  dwellings  of  the  prosperous  and  the 
humble  homes  of  the  poor. 

The  arriving  steamers  are  as  usual  beset  by  a  throng  of 
boatmen,  and  wary  must  be  the  tourist  who  is  not  exorbitantly 
fleeced,  unless  he  has  a  friend  on  board  to  guide,  or  one 
from  the  city  to  greet  him.  As  the  Chilian  peso,  of  somewhat 
variable  value,  is  generally  worth  less  than  a  quarter  of  a 
dollar,  the  tariff  price  is  not  so  high  as  it  sounds;  one  peso 
for  each  person  or  considerable  piece  of  baggage  is  a  suitable 
fee,  though  much  more  is  likely  to  be  demanded. 

At  the  landing,  arrangements  may  be  made  for  the  trans- 
port of  the  heavy  baggage  by  cart,  while  you  go  with  hand 
baggage  to  the  hotel  in  a  carriage;  or  a  tram  car  may  serve 
you.  The  hotels,  the  Royal,  Palace,  and  Grand,  are  all  with- 
in half  a  mile  of  the  landing.  The  Royal  Hotel,  65  Esmer- 
alda street,  which  is  sometimes  full  to  overflowing,  will  be 
found  amply  satisfactory.  The  American  proprietors,  i\Ir.. 
and  Miss  Kehle,  have  made  it  more  like  a  hotel  in  the  United 
States  than  are  any  others  that  I  have  seen  on  the  "West  Coast. 
Located  on  one  of  the  principal  business  streets,  it  aft'ords  ex- 
cellent meals  in  several  large  dining-rooms ;  and  handsomely 
furnished  chambers,  with  modern  equipment  including  red 
satin  puffs  for  the  beds  in  addition  to  fine  blankets.  The  price 
is  from  12  to  15  pfsos  and  up  according  to  the  room.     The 


1  f  f  i  ii|ti«ti«itii|ii|i{iiyiu 


VALPARAISO    HARBOR 


VALPARAISO  165 

Grand  Hotel  is  said  to  afl'ortl  similar  acfoiiiiiiodations  at 
about  tlie  same  j)ri('es.  Tlie  i'alace,  a  little  clicapL-r,  is  well 
situated  ou  the  IMa/.a  de  los  Bomheros,  and  others  less  pre- 
tentious, as  the  Colon,  87  Esmeralda,  are  ealled  eleau  ami 
good. 

In  Valparaiso,  a  city  of  nearly  200,000,  it  seems  lo  be  the 
fashion  for  the  residents  to  reply,  wlien  asked  what  tliere  is  to 
see,  "0,  nothing  at  all."  This  is  by  no  means  true,  though 
at  least  twice  as  mueh  time  should  be  devoted  to  Santiago. 
First  there  is  the  large  S(iuare  near  the  landing  on  wliieli  is 
the  handsome  Casa  del  Gol)ierno.  In  the  center  of  the  i)laza 
is  a  fine  monument.  The  Country  to  the  Heroes  of  the  21sl  of 
May,  and  at  one  corner  near  the  docks  is  the  railway  station 
to  Santiago.  The  air  seems  crisp  and  the  city  more  European 
than  any  previously  seen. 

The  business  streets  have  many  handsome  buildings  two 
or  three  stories  high,  a  few  even  more,  looking  fresh  and  clean, 
since  the  greater  part  of  this  district  was  laid  low  by  the 
terrible  earthquake  of  li)()6.  A  twelve-month  of  unusual 
shrinkage,  of  adjustment  of  the  earth's  surfaee,  and  of  con- 
secpient  calamity  was  practically  coincident  with  this  year. 
In  April  1906  occurred  the  catastrophe  at  San  Francisco,  Aug- 
ust 16,  the  practical  destruction  of  Valparaiso,  and  in  Jan- 
uary, 1907,  the  disaster  at  Kingston.  Some  buildings  in  Val- 
paraiso withstood  the  shocks,  but  with  the  'quakes  and  the  re- 
sulting fires  little  of  the  lower  part  of  the  city  renuiined  un- 
damaged. The  upper  town  was  to  a  great  extent  uninjui-ed 
and  the  shii)piiig  in  the  bay  received  no  liai-m.  Few  traces  of 
the  calannty  are  now  left,  as  like  San  Francisco  the  town 
was  soon  rebuilt  in  a  superior  manner.  AVhile  slight  earth- 
([uakes  are  frequent  they  are  not  fearsome,  as  heavy  slioeks 
are  usually  half  a  century  apait.  l>esi(Ies  earth<piakes.  \'al- 
paraiso  has  experienced  other  calamities.  Foumied  in  la.'je, 
in  its  earlier  days  it  was  three  times  cai)tured  and  sacked  by 
pirates;  in  1858,  it  was  destroyed  by  tire:  in  ISdi;,  hombarded 
by  a  Spaiush  fleet  ;  and  in  1S90  it  sulfered  considerable  injury 
from  the  lialmaceda  revolution.  It  is  to  be  boix'd  that  after 
all  these  vicissitudes  it  nuiy  enjoy  a  peaceful  existence.  A 
stroll  along  the  prineijial  streets  to  the  ollice  of  the  .\nier- 
icau    consul,    calle    lUanco,    991,    to    the    hanking    liouse    of 


166  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

W.  R.  (irace,  and  to  ga/e  at  tlie  liandsome  shop  window.s  is 
the  pastime  of  an  hour  or  two.  Between  the  hills  and  the 
water  it  is  iinpossihle  to  lose  one's  way.  'J'he  double-decked 
tram  cars  are  an  imposing  sight,  and  rather  curious  objects 
are  the  women  conductors.  Having  heard  of  these  before 
arriving,  I  was  ex])ecting  to  see  some  trim  young  women,  with 
possibly  a  coquettish  eye  turning  at  times  upon  some  of  the 
gentlemen  patrons,  as  occasionally  happens  in  some  of  our 
cheap  restaurants ;  but  no !  Staid  indeed  are  the  women  con- 
ductors in  Valparaiso  and  Santiago,  and  far  from  handsome. 
Plainly  dressed  in  a  sort  of  blue  uniform  with  white  aprons, 
they  are  obviously  of  the  so-called  laboring  class,  of  rather 
stolid  appearance,  perhaps  the  mothers  of  families,  and 
closely  intent  upon  their  duties.  It  appears  that  during  the 
war  of  '79- '81,  so  many  young  men  joined  the  army  that 
women  were  drafted  into  this  service.  Performing  it  in  a 
satisfactory  manner  they  continued  to  be  so  employed 
though  not  to  the  total  exclusion  of  men.  They  mount  to 
the  upper  story  to  collect  fares  and  in  Santiago  swing  along 
the  sides  of  the  open  cars  quite  in  man  fashion,  though 
necessarily  hampered  by  their  voluminous  skirts.  Manifestly 
competent  for  the  labor,  less  difficult  than  other  duties  like 
scrubbing  floors,  supposed  to  lie  more  within  their  sphere, 
it  would  seem  that  bifurcated  garments,  even  knickerbockers, 
would  enable  them  to  perform  either  service  more  easily. 
If  men  and  women  were  to  exchange  garments  for  a  hundred 
years  it  is  conceivable  that  the  idea  as  to  which  is  the  weaker 
sex  might  be  changed  also. 

A  few  car  rides  may  be  taken  to  advantage,  the  greater 
if  sitting  above;  but  among  the  natives  of  the  upper  class 
this  is  taboo,  as  the  price  is  only  half  of  that  below;  the 
fares  being  five  and  ten  ccntavos  respectively.  A  gentleman 
in  Santiago  remarked  to  me  that  although  he  preferred  riding 
outside  it  would  never  do  except  in  the  evening,  when  he 
could  not  be  recognized  from  the  street  or  from  the  upper 
windows  of  houses  in  passing. 

Not  far  from  the  Royal  Hotel  is  the  Plaza  Victoria  on  one 
side  of  which  is  the  Espiritu  Santo  Church,  the  most  fashion- 
able in  the  city,  though  with  an  ordinary  exterior.  A  flower 
market  is  passed  on  the  way,  where  beautiful  roses  and  other 


VALPARAISO  K,7 

flowers  may  be  purchased  in  quantities  for  a  single  peso.  The 
general  market  as  a  matter  of  course  is  worth  seeiujr,  espe- 
cially in  the  season  of  fruits,  as  Chile  rivals  California  in  the 
excellence  and  variety  of  these,  and  surpasses  it  in  cheapness. 
The  fruits  of  the  Temperate  Zone,  ehcri-ies,  peaches,  apples, 
pears,  and  grapes,  luscious  in  qualily  and,  the)/  snij,  unrivaled 
in  any  part  of  the  world,  in  their  summer  and  fall  tempt  Hit- 
tourist  on  every  hand. 

It  is  important  to  ascend  the  hills  in  two  or  three  different 
places,  both  for  the  view  going  up  and  for  what  is  to  be  seen 
at  the  top.  The  aseensors  are  similar  to  those  of  Cincinnati, 
one  being  carried  up  by  cable  as  another  is  coming  down ; 
but  the  inclines  seemed  steeper  and  one  appeared  rather 
rickety.  There  Iiave  been  fatal  accidents.  However, — I  went 
as  do  others.  Near  the  top  of  one  of  the  inclines  wliich  is  but 
a  short  distance  from  the  Hotel  Royal  is  a  cemetery  where 
chapel-like  tombs  and  pretty  head  stones  and  monuments 
are  closely  packed  togetlu^r  among  shaded  walks  on  the  very 
edge  of  the  precipitous  l)luff.  One  has  here  a  magnificent 
view  of  the  city  below  fringing  the  semi-circular  shore,  of 
the  blue  waters,  alive  with  ships,  and  of  the  surrounding 
hills.  Through  canons  here  and  there  separating  the  various 
hills  and  bluffs,  a  few  carriage  roads  wind  steeply  upward 
and  more  footpaths,  by  which  some  pedestrians  climb;  but 
most  persons  will  prefer  to  save  time  and  strength  l)y  taking 
their  chances  in  an  ascensor.  Perched  on  these  steep  inclines 
are  houses  of  the  poor,  while  at  the  top  are  many  line  villas 
occupied  by  native  and  foreign  residents.  Close  to  the 
Chilian  ceinetery  on  the  bluff  is  the  English  burial  (jrouiul 
surrounded  by  a  high  wall,  hi  a  far  corner  of  this  enclosure 
is  a  small  marble  !omb  on  a  concrete  foundation  wilh  a  marlile 
cross  above,  the  whole  about  live  feet  higli,  in  which  Ameri- 
cans will  have  a  special  interest.     The  inscription  reads: 

"In  memory  of  the  officers  and  seamen  slain  on  board 
the  United  States  frigate  Essex  in  this  harbor  in  an  engage- 
ment with  II.  R.  Majesty's  frigate  I'IkkIh  and  hrig  Chi  nib, 
February  28,  1814."  A  list  of  52  names  I".. Hows  and  Ihc 
statement  that  it  was  ei-ccted  by  oflieers  ol"  foui-  ships  nl'  the 
United  Stales  Navy. 

This  ship,  the  Essex,  commanded  by  Caj)!.  David   Porter, 


168  TTIE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

after  inflictinjjc  imicli  (laiiuifjc  on  Britisli  property,  capturing 
860  seamen  and  100  cannon,  was  surjjrised  in  this  harl)or  by 
two  British  ships.  Though  disa))led  by  a  squall  she  made 
a  splendid  fight  until  more  than  three-fifths  of  the  crew  were 
killed  or  wounded,  and  the  ship  was  on  fire  in  several  places, 
when  she  struck  her  colors.  A  more  conspicuous  monument 
for  the  gallant  dead  might  seem  appropriate. 

By  another  ascensor,  a  trip  should  be  made  to  the  Naval 
School,  which  crowns  a  splendid  height  nearer  the  outer  edge 
of  the  harl)or.  A  fine  large  building,  well  e(piipped  in  the 
best  modern  English  fashion,  stands  back  of  a  pretty  garden. 
There  are  good  class  rooms,  laboratories,  machine  shops  with 
guns  mounted  as  on  board  ship,  and  all  essentials  for  a 
thorough  and  practical  course  of  study.  In  the  rear  patios 
are  athletic  fields  with  bathing  facilities.  The  cadets  are 
generally  from  the  best  families,  and  the  program  of  study 
is  based  on  that  of  English  schools;  the  fleet  is  organized  on 
the  British  model,  and  the  ships  are  constructed  in  British 
shipyards.-  There  is,  further,  a  training  ship  for  sailors, 
where  if  unable  to  read  and  write  they  receive  instruction, 
as  do  soldiers  in  a  corresponding  institution  in  Santiago. 

On  the  fine  broad  Avenue  Brazil  is  a  handsome  arch  with 
the  British  Lion  above,  presented  to  the  city  by  the  British 
colony  here,  at  the  Centennial  in  1910. 

Vina  del  Mar.  An  excursion  should  by  all  means  be  made 
to  this  suburb ;  to  ]\Iiramar  if  time  allows.  The  former  may 
be  reached  by  tram  or  train  in  half  an  hour  or  so.  It  is 
pleasant  to  go  by  one  and  return  by  the  other.  The  tracks, 
nearly  parallel,  pass  several  pretty  suburbs  and  give  several 
glimpses  of  the  sea  beyond  the  harbor  before  reaching  the 
destination.  Vina  del  iNlar  is  not  only  a  suburb  of  Valparaiso 
whither  many  Englishmen  and  others  go  in  the  afternoon  for 
sports,  and  where  many  business  men  of  Valparaiso  have 
homes,  but  it  is  also  a  fashionable  summer  resort  for  the 
wealthy  residents  of  Santiago  and  other  parts  of  Chile.  It  is 
a  charming  place  with  a  pretty  railway  station  near  a  large 
and  attractive  plaza.  Many  carriages  stand  near,  in  one  of 
which  for  a  few  pesos  a  pleasant  drive  may  be  taken  around 
the  town  and  out  to  the  hippodrome  or  race  track,  a  mile  or 
more  outside  the  city.     Within  the  track  enclosure,  a  pretty 


AVENIDA    UJtAZIL,    WITH    UlilTISH    MONUMENT 


lti.aliil.NCl.,    \1NA    lil-L,    .\1AU 


VALPARAISO  160 

spot  surrounded  by  groeu  hills,  the  foreigners  have  hiid 
out  a  golf  course,  grounds  for  cricket,  and  for  football.  Tlie 
place  is  thus  visited,  especially  on  Sundays,  by  many,  not  only 
for  the  races,  to  which  the  Chilians  are  as  devoted  as  the 
Argentines,  but  for  athletics  of  various  kinds.  The  Chilian 
horses  seem  very  large  after  those  of  Peru,  and  trotting 
is  their  specialty.  Some  of  them  do  this  so  well  that  their 
gentle  trot  is  as  easy  as  the  lope  or  canter  of  most  other 
animals. 

A  prett}^  and  commodious  clubhouse  faces  the  Plaza,  and 
near  by  are  many  charming  villas  of  attractive  architecture 
surrounded  by  luxuriant  vegetation  of  tropical  and  temperate 
climes,  beautiful  flower  beds,  trees,  and  shrubbery.  Half  a 
mile  from  the  center  of  the  town  is  a  tine  beach  bordered  by 
jutting  rock  promontories.  Large  bathing  establishments, 
cafes  for  ices  and  tea,  and  splendid  villas  with  well  laid  out 
grounds  recall  our  own  shore  resorts.  A  good  pedestrian  may 
be  tempted  to  climb  over  the  steep  enclosing  hill  and  descend 
on  the  other  side  to  the  electric  ear  track  for  his  return  to 
the  city.  The  Grand  Hotel  with  beautiful  grounds  is  the 
leading-  hostelry  of  the  place. 

Miramar  is  a  small  but  popular  l)athing  resort  in  the  op- 
posite direction  from  Valparaiso,  reached  by  electric  cars;  but 
the  bathing  is  here  more  dangerous,  as  not  far  from  shore 
the  bottom  drops  suddenly  to  a  great  depth. 

From  Valparaiso  to  Santiago  by  rail  is  a  ride  of  3i/o  or 
4  hours  by  express  trains  and  al)Out  two  more  by  accommo- 
dation. The  price  of  tickets  for  the  express  is  12.80  pesos, 
4  extra  for  seat  in  Pullman ;  8.50  pesos  by  slower  train.  It 
is  a  pleasant  ride;  for  a  few  miles  near  the  shore,  passing  Vina 
del  Mar,  then  east  through  the  Coast  Kange  to  the  Central 
Plain,  at  Llai  Llai  leaving  the  Aiidim'  IJjiilw.iy  to  turn  south- 
ward to  Santiago. 


CHAPTER  XVIII 
SANTIAGO 

Hotels.  Oddo,  E.  P.,  7  to  30  pesos;  Grand,  A.  P.,  15  to  30 
pesos;  Unneneta  Palace,  about  the  same;  otliers  at  lower  prices. 

Chief  Points  of  Interest.  Plaza  de  Annas;  Cathedral  and  other 
buildings  around;  the  Capitol;  the  Moneda;  the  Alameda;  Parque 
Cousino;  most  important,  Santa  Lucia  Hill  and  the  Cemetery;  the 
Art  Gallery. 

Santiago,  the  capital  and  largest  city  of  Chile,  the  third 
or  fourth  in  size  in  South  America,  considered  by  some  trav- 
elers  to  have  the  most  beautiful  location  of  any  capital  in 
the  world  except  Rio   de  Janeiro,   is  situatea  on  tne  river 

~]\Iapocho  in  the  long  central  valley  of  Chile,  at  an  elevation 

__of2000_Je£l__  Founded  by  the  doughty  warrior  and  Spanish 
invader,  friend  and  almost  counterpart  of  Francisco  Pizarro, 
Pedro  de  Valdivia,  it  was  by  him  planned  and  laid  out  in 
1541  after  he  had  first  built  a  fort  on  Santa  Lucia  hill,  an 
excellent  site  for  the  purpose,  recalling  the  ancient  Greek 
Acropolis  or  some  of  the  mediajval  strongholds.  On  account 
of  the  too  great  dispersion  of  the  invaders,  the  settlement  for 
some  years  had  a  hard  struggle  for  existence,  but  during  its 
century  of  independence  it  has  grown  rapidly.     Its  popuhi- 

^  tion,  now  approaching  400,000.  is  ten  times  as  great  as  when 
independence  was  declared  in  1810. 

^he  site  is  indisputably  one  of  remarkable  beauty  anrljgjc- 
turpsqup  pbnvm^  Avithout  any  interference  with  the  conven- 
ience of  a  large  city.     The  hills  mimd  on  the  edge  of  the 

""city,  rising  like"  siiTaTTislands  abruptly  from  the  plain,  do  not 
preclude  long  level  streets,  yet  form  a  peculiar  and  admirable 
embellishment,  while  east  and  west,  the  mountains  of  the 
Great  Cordillera  and  of  the  Coast  Range,  which  a  few  miles 

170 


SANTIAGO  171 

away  rise  as  lofty  ramparts  to  the  ethereal  blue,  are  an  ever 
sublime  and  noble  contrast  to  the  verdant  smiling  plain. 

The  climate  of  Santiago,  which  at  33°  S.  has  about  the 
same  latitude  as  Charleston  and  San  Diego  N.,  is  considered 
excellent;  thougli  tlie  three  winter  months,  in  dwellings  desti- 
tute of  heating  apparatus,  seem  rather  cool  indoors  to  resi- 
dents of  the  United  States.  In  the  summer,  though  not 
extremely  hot,  it  is  very  dusty,  so  that  wealthy  residents  at 
this  season  escape  to  Vina  del  ]\Iar  or  other  seashore  resorts, 
to  the  bejuitiful  lake  region,  to  the  springs  and  bntlis  among 
the  mountains,  or  even  to  the  fjords  in  the  distant  south. 
An  amusing  mot  of  a  German  is  related  by  one  who  did  not 
seem  to  appreciate  it.  "The  climate  of  Santiago  is  good  but 
it  is  very  unhealthy."  And  both  statements  have  been  quite 
true,  the  latter  inexcusably  so,  resulting  from  the  fact  that 
ordinary  sanitary  measures  have  been  neglected.  Tiie  med- 
ical congress  in  1911  was  held  in  the  midst  of  an  epidemic 
of  smalli)OX.  There  has  been  a  Avoeful  lack  of  sewerage. 
But  happily  the  officials  have  at  last  come  to  realize  the 
importance  of  sanitation,  an  adequate  system  of  sewerage  is 
now  installed,  and  doubtless  other  deficiencies  will  soon  be 
remedied. 

From  the  fine  large  railway  station  on  the  outskirts  of  the 
city,  a  carriage  or  tram  car  may  be  taken  to  one  of  the  hotels 
near  the  center,  a  mile  or  more  distant.  To  secure  accom- 
modations at  the  Oddu,  long  regarded  as  the  leading  hotel 
of  Santiago,  it  is  often  necessary  to  engage  rooms  in  advance, 
as  both  main  building  and  annexes  are  generally  crowded. 
The  Oddo,  near  the  Plaza  de  Armas,  on  one  of  the  principal 
.streets,  Ahumada,  327,  the  annexes  on  another  at  riglit  angles 
with  this,  Iluerfanos,  97(!  and  1012,  no  longer  supply  jneals. 
The  Grand  Hotel,  now  called  the  best,  is  close  by,  Iluerfanos 
1164.  Another  hotel  approximating  this  is  the  I'mu-neta 
Palace.  Prices  at  these  two  are  likely  to  be  L")  or  20  prsos 
a  day,  with  morning  colTee,  one  ixso,  as  an  exira.  Other 
hotels  of  more  modest  i)riee  and  aeeoinmodations  are  the 
Espanola,  the  Majestic,  the  Milan,  and  the  .Melossi.  Persons 
rooming  at  the  Oddo  take  their  meals  generally  at  the  San- 
tiago Kestaui-ant   on   lliirrianos,  the  best   in  the  city. 


172  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

At  the  Oddo  Hotel,  a  surprising  and  pleasant  custom  in 
1911  was  that  morning  and  evening  the  newspapers,  El  Mer- 
curio  and  Las  Ultimas  Nolicias,  were  thrust  under  the  door 
of  my  room,  the  first  in  time  to  enjoy  with  my  morning  coffee. 
"Whether  this  was  by  the  courtesy  of  the  hotel  proprietor  or 
the  newspaper  management  (both  papers  having  the  same 
publishers)  I  am  unable  to  state.  Rather  expecting  to  find 
them  charged  on  my  bill,  I  was  agreeably  disappointed  that 
they  were  not.  To  the  tourist  coming  down  the  West  Coast 
the  newspapers  of  Chile  are  a  surprise.  Those  of  Peru  and 
Bolivia  though  often  with  able  editorials  are  small,  and  con- 
tain but  a  modicum  of  foreign  news,  especially  of  the  United 
States ;  and  the  little  there  is  from  our  own  country  is  largely 
gossip.  But  in  Chile,  as  on  the  East  Coast,  it  is  different. 
The  Mercurio  is  a  newspaper  of  world-wide  reputation  and 
of  advanced  age,  exceeded  by  few  in  the  United  States. 
Originally  founded  in  Valparaiso  in  1827,  a  Santiago  edition 
was  started  in  1900,  the  two  papers  now  being  published  with 
the  same  editorials,  cables,  and  general  news,  though  differing 
in  local  matters.  The  proprietor  is  ]\Er,  Agustin  Edwards, 
a  member  of  a  wealthy  banking  house  and  a  large  owner  and 
president  of  the  Compaiiia  Sud-Americana  de  Vapores.  The 
buildings  in  which  they  are  housed,  and  the  contents  of  these 
papers  are  superior  to  many  of  those  in  larger  cities  of  the 
United  States.  Besides  good  quarters  for  editors,  reporters, 
and  other  employees,  there  are  dining,  reception,  and  assem- 
bly rooms,  bed  and  bath  rooms,  and  other  features  not  found 
in  our  establishments.  The  editors  are  cultivated,  well  in- 
formed gentlemen,  whose  well  written  editorials  on  the  chief 
topics  of  the  day  are  read  and  become  subjects  of  daily  con- 
versation among  men  of  the  upper  class.  Distinguished 
strangers  are  interviewed,  social  life  receives  attention,  com- 
mercial matters,  sport,  science,  and  literature  all  have  their 
place.  Las  Ultimas  Notichs,  an  evening  paper  with  the  same 
publishers,  is  of  lighter  character.  The  Diario  Ilustrado  is 
the  morning  paper  now  having  the  largest  circulation.  Be- 
sides other  good  though  less  known  dailies,  Santiago  has  illus- 
trated weeklies,  the  Zigzag,  and  Siicesos,  containing  a  record 
in  pictures  of  the  week's  happenings,  cartoons  and  photo- 
graphs of  local  events  and  of  world-wide  interest.     These 


SANTIAGO  173 

are  in  compact  magazine  form  of  slightly  less  size  and  thick- 
ness than  our  monthlies. 

Sight-seeing  in  Santiago  naturally  begins  with  ihf  I'ln-Hj 
the  center  of  which  is  beautitied  by  palm,  orange,  and  lir 
trees,  grass,  fountains,  and  flower  beds,  among  which  are 
broad  walks  and  benches.  From  the  usual  band  stand  Sun- 
day, Thursday,  and  Saturday  evenings  concerts  of  good  clas- 
sical and  operatic  music  are  given,  in  summer  from  eight  to 
ten  p.  m.,  in  winter  from  six  to  seven.  In  the  center  of  the 
Plaza  is  a  statue  by  a  famous  Italian  sculptor,  Fagazarro, 
which  represents  Liberty  breaking  the  chains  of  (Spanish) 
Slavery.  The  four  crocodiles  beneath  with  their  mouths  open 
indicate  that  this  was  originally  intended  for  a  fountain. 

Around  the  Plaza  are  buildings  of  importance;  on  the  west 
side,  the  (JMU^ii-tiul,  originally  constructed  of  stone  on  the  site 
which  Valdivia  appointed  for  the  first  church  to  be  erected 
in  Chile.  If  the  outside  is  not  remarkable  the  interior  is 
vast  and  imposing.  On  each  side  of  the  nave  are  large  square 
pillars  with  images  of  Saints  and  Apostles.  In  the  usual  side 
chapels  are  various  paintings  by  old  masters  and  other  ob- 
jects of  interest;  a  reclining  life-size  figure  of  San  Francisco 
de  Xavier,  carved  from  the  trunk  of  a  pear  tree,  is  considered 
of  high  artistic  merit.  This  work  was  found  in  the  monastery 
of  the  Jesuits  when  that  Order  was  expelled  from  Chile  in 
1776.  Another  chapel  on  the  same  side,  that  of  Santo  Sac- 
ramento, contains  a  monstrance  and  altar  of  beautifully 
wrought  silver  more  than  two  hundred  years  old,  and  also  an 
anticjue,  large  swinging  silver  lamp.  The  choir  stalls  in  the 
chancel  are  as  usual  of  carved  wood,  also  the  thi-oue  of  the 
Archbishop.  In  the  sacristy  is  a  large  oil  painting  of  The 
Last  Supper,  of  the  old  Spanish  school,  and  a  crystal  chande- 
lier which  hung  in  a  room  where  the  first  Congress  assembled, 
now  the  National  Library.  In  the  Calhedi-al  are  buried  the 
three  archbishops,  the  first,  Sefior  Vicuna  Larrain,  conse- 
crated in  1841.  The  tomb  of  the  second  is  noteworthy,  elab- 
orately carved  of  Carrara  marble,  with  fluted  columns  and 
trailing  vines,  and  the  reclining  figure  of  the  archbishop  in 
his  stately  robes.  In  front  crouches  a  bronze  lion.  The 
stained  glass  windows  deserve  attention.  The  particularly 
flne  oi'gan  is  said  to  l)e  c<|ual   in  tone  to  tliat    in   St.   Paul's, 


^ 


174  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

London.  Jt  came  here  by  accident,  being  on  its  way  to 
Australia  in  a  ship  which  was  wrecked  in  the  Straits  of  Ma- 
gelhin.  Among  the  salvage  was  the  organ  which,  purchased 
at  a  bargain,  was  brought  to  Santiago.  The  Cathedral  should 
be  visited  at  the  earliest  opportunity,  as  much  of  the  time 
it  is  closed.  Also  it  is  to  be  observed  that  there  is  a  strict  rule 
here,  rigidly  enforced,  against  wearing  hats  into  the  churches. 
Unless  a  lady  does  not  mind  removing  hers,  it  is  well  to  devote 
a  morning  to  the  churches,  wearing  a  lace  scarf  or  veil  over 
the  head  and  thus  having  no  bother.  Next  to  the  Cathedral 
is  the  Palace  of  the  Archbishop. 

On  the  north  side  of  the  Plaza  at  the  corner  next  to  the 
Cathedral  is  the  Post  Office,  a  modern  well  equipped  struc- 
ture, the  telegraph  office,  the  Palace  of  the  Provincial  Gov- 
ernor, and  the  IMunicipal  Building,  the  front  of  which  is 
illuminated  on  national  holidays.     On  the  east  side  is  the 
Portal  McClure,  back  of  which  are  many  shops.     Under  the 
portal  are  many  venders,  as  also  on  the  south  side  of  the 
Plaza  under  the  Portal  Fernandez  Concha,  where  especially 
are  fruit  aiid  flower  stalls:  beautiful  roses,  jasmine,  helio- 
trope, etc.,  grapes,  figs,  paltas,  chirimoias  and  other  fruits, 
according  to  the  season. 
/^  Santiago  is  a  city  generally  pleasing  to  tourists,  even  de- 
jlightful,  as  one  traveler  asserts,  who  calls  it  the  best  place 
^  in  South  America  for  residence  the  whole  year  around  and 
\  the  only  one  attractive   from  a  scenic,   climatic  and  social 
\  point  of  view.     This  very  critical  writer  who  seems  to  have 
a  special  '^ grouch"  against  Rio  de  Janeiro,  after  seeing  Lima 
revises   his   opinion    to   a    degree,    then   declaring   that    only 
Buenos  Aires,   Santiago,   and  Lima  appear  desirable  places 
to  live  in  and  of  the   three  he  rather   prefers   Lima.     Per 
contra,  another  great  traveler  who  stayed  in  Lima  not  long 
enough  reall.y  to  see  it,  from  his  superficial  view  thought  it 
much  over-rated,  this  showing,  with  a  possible  difference  in 
taste,  the  error  of  a  too  hasty  judgment. 

But  not  to  make  undue  comparisons,  Santiago  is  a  charm- 
ing city,  much  larger,  obviousl.v,  and  more  modern  and 
European  than  cosy  and  courtly  Lima,  or  strange  and  remote 
La  Paz.  Its  attractions  will  surprise  many  and  all  will  be 
loath  to  leave. 


SANTIAGO  175 

It  has  a  fine  system  of  electric  cars  with  a  device  which  in 
our  cities  might  be  adopted  to  very  gi'eat  advantage.  Tlie 
ears  of  the  various  routes,  in  addition  to  the  names  of  streets 
or  destinations  which  they  bear,  are  all  numbered,  with  figures 
at  the  top  large  enough  to  l)e  visible  for  a  block  or  two.  On 
the  caile  Ahumada  you  will  see  cars  numbered  15,  17,  20, 
24,  etc.  Should  you  wish  to  go  to  the  Park,  you  may  take 
No.  19  on  Iluerfanos.  The  hotel  people  or  any  resident  will 
tell  you  what  cars  you  may  take  and  where,  for  any  given 
point,  or  you  will  find  a  complete  list  in  Scott's  riuiiie  Hook. 

After  seeing  the  Plaza,  one  may  take  No.  19  there  for 
Parque  Cousino,  or  a  cab  or  automobile  for  a  drive  al)out 
the  city.  In  1911  the  paving  on  many  streets  was  so  rough 
that  the  ears  were  preferred  by  many;  now,  however,  the 
streets  in  the  central  part  of  the  city  are  all  in  fine  condi- 
tion. 

The  business  quarter  of  the  city  is  chiefly  between  the 
Plaza  and  the  Alameda,  extending  also  to  the  west.  All  of 
these  streets  are  rather  narrow  with  a  single  car  track  on 
one  side,  the  cars  as  in  Lima  going  by  one  route  and  returning 
by  another  to  the  starting  point.  In  this  section  are  many 
excellent  shops  of  all  kinds,  the  hotels,  banks,  and  tlie  gov- 
ernment buildings.  Of  the  last  tlie  Capitol  is  naturally  the 
finest,  occupying  a  whole  square  a  little  west  of  the  Cathedral. 
On  two  sides  of  this  large  handsome  structure  are  beautifully 
kept  gardens,  with  magnolias,  heliotrope,  and  other  flowers. 
In  the  garden  on  the  east  fi-ont  is  a  bauiliful  niarbh  tnadonna 
in  an  attitude  of  mourning  or  prayer,  with  four  kneeling  an- 
gels at  her  feet.  An  inscription  records  that  this  is  a  memo- 
rial to  the  victims  of  the  fire,  December  8,  1868,  witness  of  the 
undying  love  and  grief  of  the  ]>eople  ten  years  hiler.  The 
church  of  the  Jesuits,  then  consumed  witli  2000  victims,  for- 
merly stood  on  this  spot. 

Of  the  four  entrances,  this  on  the  east  is  to  the  Cdmaia 
de  Diputados  above,  tliat  on  the  west  to  the  Camara  dc  S(  n- 
adores.  Both  Chambers  are  liUe  small  tlieaters  with  four  rows 
of  seats  raised  one  above  another,  each  with  a  small  table 
and  writing  material  in  front.  There  is  a  high  carved  dais 
for  the  President.  A  dome  of  colored  glass  forms  the  roof. 
In  the  Senatorial  Cham])er  is  a  painting  by  Valenzuela  Llanos 


17G  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

representing?  the  first  Congress,  July  4,  1811,  held  in  the..Na- 
ti»mt4— Xd.l>r;iry  near  })y.  The  building  has  wide  marble 
staircases,  rooms  for  the  President,  for  secretaries,  some  de- 
signed for  discussion  and  conversation;  also  a  large  hand- 
some Congress  Hall  where  the  President  reads  his  message  at 
the  same  tnue  to  both  Houses,  and  to  the  Diplomats.  To 
the  two  galleries  of  the  hall,  friends  are  admitted  by  ticket 
for  the  opening  of  Congress,  an  impressive  and  ceremonious 
occasion.  This  building  is  heated  by  steam  pipes,  a  wonder- 
ful innovation,  making  it  comfortable  even  to  Americans. 

The  official  residence  of  the  President  is  in  the  Palacio  de 
la3loncda  which  contains  also  his  offices  and  thqsii-ef-the 
MimslerS-- of  the  Interior,  Finance,  and  Foreign  Relations, 
as  well  as  the  quarters  of  the  Mint.  This  building,  between 
the  streets  Morande  and  Teatinos,  faces  the  Plaza  de  la 
Moncda,  which  is  ornamented  with  fountains  and  flower  beds, 
and  a  statue  of  an  able  Minister,  Don  Diego  Portales,  noted 
for  his  uprightness.  The  Palacio  with  its  two  large  patios 
occupies  an  entire  square.  By  a  curious  mistake  plans  de- 
signed for  a  Government  House  in  ]\Iexico  City  were  sent 
here,  and  so  pleased  the  Chilians  that  they  decided  to  use 
them.  Opposite  the  Palace  on  the  north  side  of  the  Plaza 
is  the  Mmistrij  of  War  and  Marine.  On  the  east  side  of  the 
Palace  on  ]\Iorande  street,  facing  the  enirance  to  the  ^lint,  is 
the  Ministry  of  Public  Works.  On  the  Plaza  Moneda  band 
concerts  occur  occasionally. 

The  most  notable  street  in  the  city  is  the  Ayenida  de  las 
Delicias,  commonly_£alled  the  Alameda,  a  beautiful  park-like 
^^prQmenacre~600  feet_jyper extend ing^urjiyjes^JxPfflH^ey^dZ. 
tiie_hill_parl?,  Santa  Lucia,  to  tlie"  Central  Railway  Station. 
The  UniteTBlaTes^ETribassjTS^located  in  a  handsome  building 
on  the  Alameda  at  1602.  The  first  floor  is  used  for  the 
offices;  the  residence  is  above.  Formerly  the  Alameda  was 
the  river  bed  of  the  IMapocho,  now  farther  to  the  north.  The 
transformation  was  due  to  General  O'Higgins.  The  central 
parkway  has  four  rows  of  trees,  oaks,  elms,  acacias;  little 
canals  of  running  water  and  many  monuments  of  soldiers, 
statesmen,  and  scientists  of  Chile.  Next  to  the  parkway  on 
each  side  are  electric  car  tracks,  and  beyond,  broad  boule- 
vards for  carriages,  bordered  by  wide  sidewalks  and  many 


SANTIAGO  177 

handsome  residences.  Near  the  ealle  Ahumada  stands 
a  monuiuent  to  the  brothers,  ^Miguel  Luis  and  Gregorio 
Victor  AmunJitegni,  the  elder,  a  patriot  of  marked  dis- 
tinction in  civil  life  who  served  as  Minister  under  several 
administrations.  A  remarkable  spi'akcr  among  a  people 
distinguished  for  their  oratory,  he  died  in  1888,  greatly 
mourned. 

Proceeding  down  the  Avenue  one  passes  a  bust  of  Abate 
Molina,  a  noted  naturalist  and  author  of  the  eighteenth  cen- 
tury. A  Natural  History  of  the  Country  of  Cliile  was  his 
chief  work.  There  follows  a  bust  of  Jose  [Miguel  Infante, 
a  great  i)liilantbropist  who  was  one  of  the  foremost  in  the 
struggle  for  independence. 

Next  is  the  most  striking  of  the  memorials  in  the  Alameda, 
a  bronze  statue  of  General  Bernardo  O'lliggins  on  horse- 
back, represented  as  on  his  famous  retreat  from  Kancagua. 
Bernardo,  born  in  Chilian,  Chile,  and  educated  in  England, 
was  the  son  of  an  Irishman  Ambrose  O'lliggins  who  after 
living  some  time  in  Spain  settled  in  Chile,  where  he  was  made 
Governor  in  1778.  Bei-nardo  entering  the  "army  in  181."}  l)e- 
came  commander,  and  as  i)reviously  related  took  part  in  most 
of  the  revolutionaiy  struggles,  later  becoming  Supreme  Dic- 
tator. In  spite  of  an  excellent  administration,  after  a  few 
years  he  was  requested  to  resign,  whieh  he  promptly  and 
patriotically  did,  then  withdrawing  to  Peru.  Some  years 
later,  influenced  by  President  Bulnes,  the  Chilians  tardily 
recalled  the  disinterested  patriot  and  were  preparing  to  re- 
ceive him  with  due  honor  when,  as  about  to  set  out  on  his 
return,  in  1845  he  died.  In  1868  his  remains  were  brought 
back  by  a  Connnission  of  the  Government  and  inteii-ed  in 
the  General  Cemetery. 

A  little  farther,  on  tlie  left,  stiiiids  a  life  si/e  figure  of 
Carrera,  Jose  ^liguel:  the  most  noted  of  three  brotliei's, 
ardent  patriots  in  tlie  struggle  for  independence,  but  of  mis- 
directed zeal;  ill!  three  were  execuli-d  in  Mendo/a  i)y  the  Ar- 
gentines, Jose,  the  last,  without  a  trial,  Sept.  4,  1821.  The 
bodies  of  tlie  three  were  by  order  of  C!ongre.ss  brought  in  1S2H 
to  Santiago  and  buried  in  the  Compjifiia  Church. 

Some  distiinci^  beyond  is  the  monument  of  another  general 
and  tlictator,  Don   IJanu'iu   Freire,  also  distinguishetl   in   the 


178  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

"War  of  Independence  and  called  by  O'Higgins  the  bravest  of 
the  brave.  Later  engaging  in  civil  war  and  being  defeated 
in  the  battle  of  Lircai  in  1830,  he  too  went  to  Peru,  but  re- 
turned before  his  death  in  1853. 

The  next  monument,  between  calles  San  Martin  and  Manuel 
Rodriguez,  is  to  the  great  hero  who  is  honored  in  every  city, 
General  San  ]\Iartin,  sometimes  called  the  Hannibal  of  the 
Andes.  Though  receiving  scant  honor  in  his  later  life,  after 
his  death  in  1850  his  memory  was  cherished.  This  bronze 
equestrian  statue,  erected  by  public  subscription  in  1863, 
represents  the  hero  holding  a  flag  which  is  surmounted  by 
a  small  figure  of  Liberty. 

Beyond  this  point,  the  Alameda  is  still  wider,  with^  flower 
beds  and  shrubs  beautifying  the  central  promenade.  On  the 
right  is  a  statue  to  the  grandson  of  an  Irishman,  Don  Ben- 
jamin Vicuiia  Mackenna,  a  distinguished  historian  who  initi- 
ated many  important  works  for  the  improvement  of  the  city: 
the  enclosing  with  stone  embankment  the  Mapocho  River,  the 
adornment  of  Santa  Lucia,  and  the  idea  of  encircling  the 
city  by  a  belt  of  trees  to  prevent  straggling  and  undue  ex- 
tension.    His  death  occurred  in  1889. 

Between  the  streets  Ejercito  and  Almirante  Barroso  is  a 
statue  unusual  if  not  unique  in  character,  being  erected  by 
the  citizens  of  Santiago  in  honor  of  the  city  of  Buenos  Aires. 
The  last  monument  is  an  obelisk  to  the  memory  of  four 
writers  of  the  Revolutionary  period. 


CHAPTER  XIX 
SANTIAGO— CONTINUED 

In  all  Spanish  Aiuerican  coimtriL'S  tlie  parks  are  au  im- 
portant feature.  In  some  respects  the  most  beautiful,  and  one 
absolutely  unique  in  character,  is  that  of  Santa  Lucia,  which, 
however  highly  praised,  is  almost  certain  to  surpass  expecta- 
tion. The  last  of  a  row  of  detached  hills,  it  made  in  the 
early  days  a  splendid  stronghold  against  the  Indians.  When 
no  longer  needed  as  a  fort  it  became  a  quarry,  then  a  burial 
ground  for  Jews,  infidels,  and  Protestants,  whose  ])ones 
would  have  defiled  the  consecrated  ground  of  the  ('atliolic 
Cemetery.  But  in  1872  these  were  removed  to  the  new  Prot- 
estant Cemetery  by  the  side  of  that  occupied  by  the  faithful, 
and  the  hill  was  converted  into  a  wonderrully  beautiful  park. 
About  three-quarters  of  a  mile  southeast  of  the  Plaza  de 
Armas,  it  is  a  pleasant  walk,  or  it  may  be  reached  by  several 
lines  of  cars.  Covering  a  surface  of  six  or  seven  acres  it 
rises  in  irregular,  jagged,  sometimes  perpendicular  walls, 
gradually  narrowing  to  a  pavilion-covered  summit  400  feet 
above,  whence  on  a  clear  day,  and  especially  at  sunset,  there 
is  an  enchanting  view.  The  city  is  spread  out  below,  distinct 
in  every  feature,  surrounded  by  the  broad  expanse  of  fertile 
plain  40  miles  long  and  18  wide,  fringed  by  ranges  of  steep 
hills  and  mountains,  the  latter  on  the  east  snow-crowni-d  and 
forming  a  splendid  rampart  15,000  feet  tall.  Aconcagua, 
visible  from  the  sea  and  from  Valparaiso,  is  unseen  here  on 
account  of  the  nearer  approach  to  the  lower  peaks  in  front, 
behind  which  it  disappears  from  view.  As  often  as  time 
permits  will  those  who  delight  in  nature's  beauty  climb  this 
hill  (splendid  exercise,  too)  to  see  the  sunset  glow  on  the  snow- 
capped mountains,  especially  when  a  slightly  clouded  .sky 
gives  assurance  of  lovi-ly  hues  and  tlie  certainty  of  a  truly 
enchanting  scene. 

Almost  as  beautiful  to  look  at  as  to  lnok  fi-om  is  this  Cerro 

17!t 


180  TTTE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

which  natural  and  artificial  charms  render  unique  among  all 
cities.  Embellished  by  public  and  private  munificence, 
especially  by  Benjamin  Mackenna,  the  hill  is  a  mass  of  green 
and  blossoms,  luxuriant  graceful  vines,  shi'ubs,  and  trees, 
among  which  are  glimpses  of  stairs  and  roadways,  rock  cliffs 
and  walls,  towers  and  l)attlements,  chapels  and  monuments, 
the  whole  a  combination  of  exceeding  loveliness. 

The  most  imposing  entrance  to  this  hill  i)ark  is  from  the 
Plaza  Vicuiia  IMackenna  near  the  Alameda,  where  stands  a 
recently  erected  statue  of  the  gentleman,  a  fine  bronze  figure, 
at  its  foot  a  seated  Fame  holding  in  her  hand  a  wreath  of 
laurel.  Entering  the  carriage  drive  (fee  10  centavos  for  a 
pedestrian,  40  centavos  for  a  carriage)  a  large  brass  i)late  may 
be  noticed,  a  memorial  to  Mackenna,  here  placed  by  the  city. 
On  a  great  boulder  back  of  this  is  a  bronze  Flora  or  JMel- 
pomene  with  inscription  giving  the  date  of  the  inauguration 
of  the  Park,  Sept.  17,  1874.  On  the  other  side  of  the  boulder 
is  inscribed  Huelen,  the  ancient  Indian  name  for  the  hill, 
signifying  misfortune  or  sorrow,  a  curious  name  for  so  superb 
a  feature  of  the  landscape.  A  little  farther  are  two  bronze 
lions,  copies  of  the  famous  ones  at  Florence.  Beyond  the  next 
corner  of  the  winding  road  is  the  foundation  stone  of  an  old 
Spanish  bridge  formerly  stretching  to  the  inscribed  boulder. 
Built  in  1787  it  was  destroyed  in  1888.  Halfway  up  the  hill 
is  a  small  door  in  a  perpendicular  rock  wall,  the  entrance  to 
the  Seismological  Observatory,  where  record  is  made  of  the 
numerous  'quakes,  and  of  the  observations  conducted  by  M.  le 
Conde  de  IMontessus  Ballores.  A  little  higher  the  carriage 
road  ends  on  a  wide  terrace.  Here  is  a  moving  picture  thea- 
ter well  patronized  in  summer,  as  is  a  restaurant  not  far 
distant,  where  an  orchestra  discourses  sweet  music.  At  the 
left  of  the  road  is  a  slab  commemorating  the  removal  of  the 
bones  of  the  heretics  once  buried  here.  The  inscription  reads : 
"In  memory  of  those  exiled  from  Heaven  and  Earth  who  in 
this  place  lay  buried  for  half  a  century,  1820-1872." 

Beyond  one  must  proceed  on  foot.  On  attaining  the  sum- 
mit, having  viewed  with  admiration  the  lovel}''  prospect,  one 
may  notice  close  at  hand,  a  little  below,  a  castellated  gateway, 
above  which  is  an  ancient  Spanish  escutcheon  here  found  bur- 
ied.    From  the  gateway  a  narrow  flight  of  steps  leads  to 


I'ALALh     Ul'     IIM,    AHI.-< 


ENTllANCK    TO    CKUKO,    SANTA    LUCIA 


SANTIAGO  181 

a  small  chapel  where  Benj.  ]\Iackenna  is  interred  and  where 
services  are  held  on  the  anniversary  of  his  death.  Looking 
over  the  parapet  one  may  see  below  the  remnants  of  an  old 
gateway  surmounted  by  two  small  Spanish  guns.  A  little 
farther  down  is  a  monument  to  the  first  ardibishop  of  San- 
tiago. The  statue  of  Pedro  de  Valdivia,  on  tlie  spot  where 
he  built  his  fort,  deserves  especial  heed.  The  inscription 
reads:  "The  valiant  Captain  of  Estremadura,  first  Governor 
of  Chile,  who  in  this  very  spot  encamped  his  band  of  1;jO 
conquerors,  Dec.  13,  1540.  Giving  to  these  rocks  the  name 
of  Santa  Lucia  and  forming  of  them  a  bastion  he  planned 
and  founded  the  city  of  Santiago,  Feb.  12,  1541."  To  see 
all  the  points  of  beauty  and  interest  one  nuist  ramble  on 
foot  by  the  pretty  paths  leading  in  every  direction  to  charm- 
ing nooks  or  delightful  outlooks.  At  noon  a  cannon  at  the 
summit  of  the  hill  is  daily  discharged  by  electricity  from  the 
Observatory  in  the  Quinta  Normal  on  the  other  side  of  the 
city.  A  second  and  less  pictui'esque  entrance  to  the  Park, 
affording  a  more  gradual  ascent  is  well  enough  to  leave  by, 
but  is  not  a  suitable  introduction  to  this  genuine  faiiy  land. 
Very  different,  and  more  like  any  other,  is  tlie  I'anjuc 
Cousino  several  miles  distant.  To  see  tiiis  at  its  best,  one 
should  go  in  carriage  or  auto  together  with  the  fashionables, 
between  the  hours  of  5  and  7.30  p.  m.,  when,  particularly  in 
the  months  September  to  December  inclusive,  it  is  tiironged 
with  fine  horses  and  carriages,  bearing  the  beauty  and  the  fash- 
ion of  Santiago.  Woods,  pleasant  walUs,  well  kept  gardens, 
beautiful  shrubs,  weeping  willows  drooping  over  a  pretty 
lake,  adorn  the  park;  a  good  restaurant  pi'ovides  ahninrzo, 
afternoon  tea,  and  dinner,  tlie  latter  at  four  lusos,  well  pat- 
ronized and  usually  accompanied  by  iiuisic.  'IMicre  ai'c  clieap 
cafes,  merry-go-rounds,  and  stands  for  dancing,  whci-e  on  Sun- 
day may  be  seen  the  peculiar  national  dance  of  the  Indians, 
La  Cucca,  where  the  couples  face  each  other,  hamlUcrchicr  in 
hand,  and  dance  with  swaying  gestures.  In  suiinner  a  l)io- 
graph  is  usi,ially  in  opciatinn  antl  twice  a  week  a  military  band 
plays  from  9  to  11  p.  m.,  when  the  park  is  often  ci-owded. 
Near  the  entrance  is  a  large  open  gra.ss  plot  with  a  pavilion 
in  the  center,  where  a  Military  Ixeview  takes  place  Sept.  ID. 
Bicycle  races  and  football  games  are  sj>orts  of  the  youthful 


182  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

Chilians,  who  t;ike  more  kindly  to  alhh'lics  than  the  young 
men  of  some  other  countries.  A  lawn  tennis  club  also  is 
found  here.  The  electric  cars  numbered  19  come  to  the 
restaurant  in  the  park,  number  18  to  the  gate  only. 

This  Park  was  i)rescnted  to  the  city  by  the  famous  Sefiora 
Isadora  Cousifio,  who  was  the  ricliest  woman  in  Chile  before 
her  marriage  to  the  richest  man  in  the  country.  He,  dying, 
left  all  his  property  to  her,  as  it  was  said  that  she  had  ad- 
ministered her  estate  better  than  he  had  his.  The  Senora, 
now  deceased,  being  worth  many  millions  in  mines,  railroads, 
steamships,  cattle,  and  real  estate,  was  a  woman  of  so  lavish 
expenditures  as  to  cause  much  gossip  even  in  Europe.  Her 
residence  in  Santiago,  of  the  Ionic  order  of  architecture,  is 
one  of  the  finest  in  South  America.  It  was  decorated  by  the 
French  artists  who  adorned  the  Paris  Opera  House.  Her 
magnificent  palace  at  Lota,  unfortunately  incomplete,  would 
undoubtedly  surpass  anything  at  Newport.  Outside  San- 
tiago she  had  an  immense  hacienda  extending  to  the  moun- 
tains. 

Another  large  park  of  different  character,  at  the  west  of  the 
town,  reached  by  Car  No.  2  from  the  Plaza  de  Armas,  is  called 
the  Quint  a  Normal:  a  particularly  desirable  place  for  a  drive, 
as  the  buildings  here  are  at  a  considerable  distance  apart. 
The  fine  trees  in  this  section,  the  green  fields  of  the  Agricul- 
tural College,  and  the  Botanical  Garden  are  a  pleasure  to 
see.  Some  persons  may  be  interested,  after  driving  about,  to 
visit  the  Agricultural  College,  the  Meteorological  Station,  and 
the  Biding  School,  all  located  in  the  Quinta.  The  Col- 
lege established  in  1845  by  President  Bulnes  has  been  of  much 
benefit.  A  cattle  show  is  held  here  annualh".  The  Botanical 
Garden,  though  not  large,  deserves  a  visit.  It  has  some  fine 
specimens  of  the  Victoria  Regia  and  other  aquatic  plants, 
with  a  nice  old  German  in  charge.  Apart  from  this  garden 
is  a  nursery  w^here  flowers,  shrubs,  and  plants  of  great  variety 
are  grown  for  the  stocking  of  public  gardens  and  parks. 
The  Zoological  Garden  in  this  quarter  does  not  amount  to 
much  beyond  presenting  man}'  natives  of  Chile;  condors, 
eagles,  vultures,  with  others,  in  an  aviary  of  Chilian  birds; 
and  domestic  animals  including  some  fine  fowls.  There  are 
a  few  bears  and  monkeys. 


SANTIAGO  183 

The  Natural  Tlisiorij  Museum,  also  in  this  Quinta  (north 
side),  contains  a  very  coniph-te  eullei-tiou  of  Chilian  birds, 
fishes,  insects,  and  plants,  made  chiefiy  by  a  celebrated  Ger- 
man naturalist.  Dr.  Otto  Philippi.  Another  section  of  greater 
interest  to  many,  contains  Indian  nniiimiics,  specimens  of  pot- 
tery, weapons,  and  relics  of  colonial  days.  In  l!)ll  tiie 
]\Iiiseum  was  open  Sundays  and  Thursdays  from  K)  a.  m.  to 
5  p.  m.,  but  was  expected  later  to  be  open  daily.  A  good 
restaurant  pleasantly  situated  and  well  patroni/cd  is  opposite 
the  calle  Catedral  not  far  from  the  ^luseum.  An  entire  day 
is  not  too  much  to  devote  to  seeing  the  C^uinta  by  persons  with 
taste  for  these  matters,  in  which  case  the  restaurant  would  be 
serviceable.  The  School  of  Arts  and  Trades  for  the  ti-aining 
of  mecluinics  and  tradesmen  is  located  on  the  south  side  of 
the  Quinta  not  far  from  the  Central  Station. 

Beyond  the  Parque  Cousino  is  the  Club  IHpico  or  race 
course  on  the  outskirts  of  the  city,  with  fine  views  of  the  Coast 
Cordilleras  and  the  Andes.  Sunday  afternoons  and  feast 
days  races  are  held  beginning  at  1.30,  but  most  persons  do  not 
arrive  until  four.  From  August  to  the  end  of  December  the 
whole  city,  meaning  of  course  Society,  is  said  weekly  to  as- 
semble there.  In  the  Diez  y  ocho  week,  from  the  17th  to  the 
20th  of  September,  it  is  difficult  to  get  near  the  Pavilion. 
There  is  a  special  enclosure  for  members,  and  behind  the 
Pavilion  are  little  gardens  where  people  go  to  take  tea  and 
meet  their  friends.  Tickets,  three  2)fso.s  to  the  pavilion,  five 
more  to  enter  the  paddock,  may  be  l)ought  after  7  p.  m.  Sat- 
urdays at  the  Cigarria  La  France,  Portal  Fernandez  Concha, 
18;  in  the  Centro  Ilipico,  Pasaje  Bahnaceda,  an  arcade  run- 
ning from  Iluerfanos  to  the  Plaza;  or  at  the  entrance  of  the 
enclosure.  Races  on  Saturday,  frcipicntcd  moi-c  by  spoiiiiig 
men  than  by  Society,  are  at  the  Jlipodromo  on  tiic  mtrth  side 
of  the  river. 

Along  the  bank  of  the  IMapocho  is  aiidlhcr  \r.\vk.  long  and 
narrow,  called  the  Forrsfal,  which  with  the  criihankiiicnt  and 
l)ridges  forms  a  vci-y  i)rctty  section  of  the  city.  At  one  end, 
in  the  Plaza  Italia  or  Colon,  is  a  monument  presented  to  the 
city  by  the  Italian  colonists  as  a  centenary  gift,  ;inil  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  beautiful  Vahirr  of  Arts,  in  tlie  IMaza 
France,  is  one  similarly  presented  by  the  Fn'nch  colony.     The 


184  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

Palacio  de  Bellas  Aries  has  a  great  Statuary  Hall  with  some 
fine  copies  aud  the  best  original  work  of  native  Chilians. 
Nine  spacious  rooms  contain  a  collection  of  paintings,  includ- 
ing some  originals  of  old  masters  and  many  by  modern  Chilian 
artists.  The  arrangement  of  the  building  is  excellent  and  the 
whole  is  a  great  credit  to  the  city.  A  smaller  park  is  the 
Plaza  de  Montt-Varas  in  the  calle  Compaiiia  between  Bandera 
and  Morande,  on  one  side  of  which  is  the  fine  new  Palace  of 
Justice  occupying  a  whole  block.  In  the  park  is  a  statue  of 
a  scholar,  a  native  of  Venezuela,  Don  Andres  Bello,  a  seated 
figure  by  Don  Nicanor  Plaza.  Bello,  1789-1865,  was  so  highly 
regarded  by  the  Chilians  that  they  pronounced  him  by  works 
and  public  services  a  true  Chilian,  and  by  a  special  law  of 
Congress  declared  him  a  citizen.  Another  statue  is  of  two 
friends  from  college  days,  Don  Manuel  ^lontt,  ten  years  Presi- 
dent of  Chile,  and  Don  Antonio  Varas,  who  worked  together 
to  promote  the  welfare  of  the  country. 

Housed  in  the  old  Congress  Hall  on  Catedral  street  is  the 
National  Library  which,  with  many  books,  contains  a  valuable 
collection  of  historical  documents,  some  of  these,  spoils  brought 
from  Lima,  and  others,  their  own  colonial  archives :  a  place 
of  much  interest  to  the  scholar  and  antiquarian. 

The  Market,  seldom  a  show  place  in  cities  of  the  United 
States,  everywhere  in  South  America  is  an  object  of  interest. 
Here  it  was  one  of  the  benefactions  of  Benj.  ]\Iackenna.  Best 
seen  early  Sunday  morning,  it  may  be  reached  by  following 
the  21st  of  j\Iay  street  from  the  northeast  corner  of  the  Plaza. 
Besides  the  usual  and  «)iusual  profusion  of  fruits,  vegetables, 
flowers,  etc.,  may  here  be  found  tiny  baskets  made  by  nuns, 
and  little  jugs  of  earthenware  and  mates,  some  extremely 
minute.  Another  market  on  the  north  side  of  the  river  is 
especially  for  vegetables. 

A  visit  to  the  Municipal  Theater  or  Opera  House  should 
not  be  omitted.  Erected  as  long  ago  as  1873,  it  probably 
surpasses  anything  of  the  kind  in  the  United  States,  certainly 
presenting  a  finer  exterior.  An  imposing  entrance  hall  has 
Avide  staircases  leading  to  the  upper  row  of  boxes.  The 
Presidential  box  is  large  and  elegantly  furnished  with  recep- 
tion rooms,  etc.,  at  the  back,  and  a  box  for  his  lady  guests 
below.     There  is  a  large  foyer  and  refreshment  rooms,  and 


SANTIAGO  185 

there  are  seats  for  an  audience  of  4000.  The  opera  season, 
though  short,  is  brilliant,  \vith  a  company  every  year  brought 
from  Italy  for  a  month  or  more.  Society  is  prt'scnt  in  full 
force  in  immaculate  evening  dress,  gorgeous  j^'owns,  and 
sparkling  jewels,  a  spectacle  of  beauty,  it  is  said,  equaling 
that  in  any  opera  house  of  the  ^vorld. 

Santiago  has  many  beautiful  homes  and  pleasing  residences, 
though  less  in  the  pure  Spanish  style  than  in  Peru :  fewer 
wide  doorways  admitting  horsemen,  and  apparently  smaller 
patios,  of  which  one  has  but  a  rare  glimpse.  Among  notice- 
ably fine  residences  are  the  Cousino  on  Diez  y  ocho,  the  £"(7- 
wards  on  Catedral,  corner  ]\Iorande,  the  Unncncta,  ]\Ifinjitas 
street;  on  the  Alameda,  the  Concha  y  Toro  between  Brazil  and 
San  ]\Iiguel,  the  Ramon  Valdcz  between  18  and  Castro,  and 
the  Quinta  Meiggs  between  Republica  and  Espana,  this  hav- 
ing fifty  or  more  rooms  with  elaborate  furnishings. 

An  excursion  which  may  be  made  by  carriage,  or  by  a  good 
walker  on  foot,  is  to  the  top  of  Cerro  San  Cristobal,  900  feet 
above  the  city.  A  more  superb  view  than  from  Santa  Lucia 
is  here  afforded.  At  tliis  point  of  vantage  is  an  Ohs( rvatonj, 
a  branch  of  the  noted  Lick  Observatory  of  California.  It  is 
in  charge  of  an  American,  Dr.  ^loore,  and  was  established  by 
the  late  D.  0.  ]\Iills.  Lower  down  on  a  prominent  bluff  is  a 
colossal  Image  of  tJie  Virgin  with  arms  outstretched  towards 
the  city  as  if  in  blessing.  The  pedestal  contains  a  small 
chapel  in  which  services  are  held  December  8,  the  anniver- 
sary of  her  festival.  On  this  night  the  statue,  which  with  its 
pedestal  is  70  feet  high,  is  illuminated  so  as  to  be  visible  to 
the  whole  city.  It  is  said  to  have  been  erected  by  women  as  a 
token  of  gratitude  for  their  preservation  from  the  eartlupuike, 
and  also  to  celebrate  the  jubilee  of  the  declaration  of  the 
Immaculate  Conception. 

The  most  important  featui-e  of  the  city  to  be  visited,  aside 
from  Santa  Lucia,  is, — the  Cemetery.  Let  no  one  be  surprised 
and  say  that  he  does  not  care  to  visit  siieh  places.  There  are 
other  cathedrals,  plazas,  public  buildings,  etc.,  but  this  again 
is  unique  and  in  many  respects  the  most  beautiful  resting 
place  for  the  dead  that  I  have  seen  in  any  land;  especially  in 
November,  the  month  of  roses.  A  French  lady  resident,  who 
did  not  find  much  else  to  please  her,  was  most  enthusiastic 


186  T\\\<]  SOUTH  AMEniCAN  TOUR 

over  this.  It  may  be  reached  by  Car  No.  8  from  the  PUiza 
de  Armas.  In  front  of  the  cemetery  is  a  semi-cireular  plaza 
with  a  colonnade.  The  gateway  is  surmounted  by  a  lofty 
dome,  which  bears  a  fine  colossal  group  of  statuary,  Adam  and 
Eve  mourning  the  death  of  Abel.  The  whole  effect  is  im- 
posing. In  the  corridors  of  the  entrance  may  be  noticed  the 
painted  ceilings,  and  passing  within  one  will  observe  a  stately 
chapel  where  masses  are  said  for  the  repose  of  the  dear  de- 
parted. Here  in  truth  is  a  city  of  the  dead,  with  streets  laid 
out  at  right  angles,  many  of  these  lined  with  beautiful  houses, 
i-ows  and  rows  of  chapel-like  tombs.  In  other  places  are 
statues,  columns,  and  memorials  in  various  forms.  Some  of 
the  avenues  are  shaded  by  orange  trees,  magnolias,  and  the 
Jacaranda  or  Brazilian  rosewood ;  others  have  the  tall,  stately, 
and  more  gloomy  cypress;  but  when  the  roses  blossom  there  is 
such  a  wealth  of  these  that  there  is  no  gloom  anywhere.  They 
are  of  various  kinds  and  colors,  but  most  numerous,  genuine 
large  white  roses  wdiich  grow  in  great  vines  sometimes  on 
trees  to  a  height  of  thirty  feet,  or  over  the  tombs,  forming  the 
most  lovely  framework  imaginable.  At  the  festival  of  All 
Saints,  November  1,  the  sight  is  unequaled  in  am^  part  of  the 
world,  as  here  this  is  at  the  height  of  the  rose  season,  when 
there  is  also  a  profusion  of  other  flowers.  The  immense  masses 
of  bouquets  and  floral  devices  of  all  kinds  then  placed  upon 
the  tombs  and  graves,  even  the  poorest  on  account  of  the  small 
cost  of  flowers  being  able  to  contribute,  make  of  the  already 
delightful  spot  a  veritable  floral  bower.  Among  noticeable 
monuments  are  a  bronze  bust,  near  the  entrance,  on  a  black 
marble  column,  to  the  litterateur,  Andres  Bello;  in  the  calle 
Central  in  the  rear  of  the  chapel  i«  the  white  marble  tomb 
of  General  Bernardo  0  'Iliggins.  Fifty  yards  to  the  right  and 
then  turning  to  the  left,  one  finds  the  memorial  erected  over 
the  remains  of  more  than  2000  victims  of  the  holocaust  in  the 
Jesuit  Church,  the  Compania,  Dec.  8,  1863,  when  a  gorgeous 
fete  to  the  Virgin  w^as  in  progress.  The  decorations  of  paper 
flowers  and  festoons  of  gauze  which  Avere  interspersed  with 
lighted  candles,  taking  fire,  fell  among  the  crowd,  chiefly 
women  of  the  higher  classes  who  thronged  the  church.  The 
doors  opening  inward,  the  crowds,  packed  against  them,  made 
egress  impossible,  and  nearly  3000  are  said  to  have  perished. 


PALACIO    UK    L.\    .MOXEDA 


CEMKTKUY    IN    UU.HE    TIMK 


SANTIAGO  187 

Few  of  tlie  leading  families  escaped  bereavement  and  since  that 
time  this  festival  has  been  solemnized  with  mourning. 

The  tombs  of  many  of  the  Presidents  are  found  on  a  street 
of  that  name,  and  on  the  ]\Iagnolia  are  many  of  real  beauty 
belonging  to  some  of  the  leading  families.  In  tlie  high  wall 
of  the  enclosure  which  covers  many  acres  are  niches  for  the 
reception  of  the  coffins  of  the  poorer  people.  At  the  left  of 
the  General  Cemetery  as  one  faces  the  entrance  from  without 
is  that  where  the  rrolcstants  are  buried,  naturally  nuicli 
smaller  and  far  less  attractive. 

On  the  way  to  the  Cemetery  one  may  pass  on  the  Avenida 
■Recoleta  the  Church  of  the  Eecolcia  Dominica  which  deserves 
a  call.  The  facade  presents  a  fine  row  of  marble  columns,  the 
only  edifice  in  the  city  furnished  with  such  decoration.  The 
doors  are  of  carved  wood.  The  interior  is  severely  beautiful, 
avoiding  the  tawdriness  exhibited  in  many  Catholic  churches. 
There  are  doul)le  rows  of  handsome  marble  columns  with 
Corinthian  capitals,  a  white  marble  chancel  screen  of  trellis 
work,  and  above  the  high  altar  a  marble  ^ladonna  del  Kosario. 
The  marble,  imported  from  Italy,  was  brought  in  ox-carts 
from  the  coast.     Pretty  cloisters  are  adjoining. 

In  the  same  avenue  a  little  nearer  the  city,  at  the  foot  of 
Cerro  Blanco,  is  a  small  church  rather  dilapidated.  La  Yiuita  ; 
of  historical  interest  as  erected  by  Ines  Juarez,  who  came 
with  Pedro  de  Valdivia,  a  woman  of  extraordinary  courage 
both  for  enduring  the  hard  life,  and  even  going  into  battle;  if 
necessary  engaging  in  combat,  when  not  attending  to  the 
wounded  of  both  parties. 

Santiago  is  an  extremely  religious  place,  so  far  at  Ica.st 
as  the  women  are  concerned,  while  the  men  are  more  in- 
clined to  agnosticism.  Among  tlie  many  duirches  th(>  most 
important  may  be  mentioned.  La  Mcrad  at  the  corner  of 
Merced  and  Claras  is  painted  a  pale  pink  and  lias  two  towers. 
At  the  main  cnti-ance  on  Claras,  on  each  side  of  tlie  carved 
Avooden  doors  are  two  life-size  paintings,  on  the  right,  of 
Ramon  Monato,  on  the  left,  of  San  Pedro  Nolasco  who  foundeti 
the  Order  Mercedarios.  Within,  the  objects  of  interest  are 
a  wooden  crucifix  with  notably  expressive  eyes,  a  gift  from 
Philij)  II  of  Spain  to  the  Order  in  Chile,  an  anti<|ue  frame  of 
solid  silver  near  the   High   Altar  enclosing  a   statue  of   the 


188  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

Virgin,  and  an  okl  j)ulpit  of  native  Avorkinanship  carved 
from  a  single  tree  trunk.  Tlie  four  Evangelists  are  repre- 
sented and  at  the  base  the  four  Symbols.  The  church  has 
an  excellent  organ  and  is  famed  for  its  tine  music. 

The  Santo  Domingo^  one  of  the  oldest  churches  in  Santiago, 
at  the  corner  of  Santo  Domingo  and  the  21  de  IMayo,  has  a 
beautiful  silver  altar  exhibited  on  especial  occasions  oidy. 
The  little  plaza  in  front  is  gay  with  a  small  flower  market, 
and  nearly  opposite  on  Santo  Domingo  is  an  old  Spanish 
gateway. 

The  San  Pedro  is  a  pretty  little  church  in  Claras  near  by. 

The  large  church  of  San  Agustin,  fronting  on  the  Estado* 
has  a  ceiling  covered  with  pictures  of  Saints,  Prophets, 
Martyrs,  and  also  the  Ten  Commandments.  A  valued  relic 
is  a  crucifix,  concerning  which  it  is  related  that  in  the  total 
destruction  of  the  church  by  an  earthquake  in  1730  this  suf- 
fered no  injury  except  that  the  crown  of  thorns  fell  from 
the  head  to  the  neck,  and  that  whenever  an  attempt  was  made 
to  replace  the  crown  shocks  occurred  in  the  vicinity ;  it  there- 
fore remains  where  it  fell.  On  the  anniversary,  May  13,  oc- 
curs a  great  procession  of  monks  and  acolytes  of  various  Or- 
ders, chanting,  swinging  incense;  and  with  lighted  candles, 
bearing  beautifully  embroidered  banners,  a  robed  figure  of  the 
Virgin,  and  the  Crucifix. 

El  Salvador,  church  of  the  Jesuits,  erected  after  the  destruc- 
tion of  the  Compailia  in  1863,  is  on  the  Huerfanos  and  Almir- 
ante  Barroso,  passed  by  Car  21.  This  church  was  damaged 
by  the  earthquake  of  1906,  though  Santiago  was  far  less  af- 
fected than  Valparaiso.  The  interior  is  gay  with  colors, 
each  pillar  being  composed  of  small  columns  of  various  hues, 
which  are  covered  with  designs  in  red,  blue,  and  gold.  An 
angel  at  the  foot  of  each  column  holds  a  plaque  with  em- 
blems of  the  Passion.  Handsome  stained  glass  windows 
portray  scenes  from  the  life  of  Christ. 

The  Sa7i  Francisco  in  the  Alameda,  almost  opposite  calle 
San  Antonio,  said  to  have  l)een  built  by  Valdivia,  is  plain 
with  a  flat  ceiling  and  one  simple  arch.  All  around  are  memo- 
rial tablets :  on  the  left  of  the  chancel  is  a  fine  marble  Crucifix 
in  relief.  Of  great  interest  as  a  historical  relic,  over  the  High 
Altar  is  the  wooden  image  of  the  Virgin  in  velvet  robes  em- 


SANTIAGO  189 

broidered  witli  gold,  which  \';ddivia  used  to  carry  in  his 
saddle-bags.  Presented  to  the  church  by  the  brave  Captain, 
it  is  highly  valued.  On  the  right  of  the  altar  is  a  small 
chapel  to  St.  Anthony,  on  the  extreme  left,  one  to  Our  Lady, 
with  altar  of  colored  marbles  and  two  ;ingels  al)0ve. 

The  IJnivcrsily  of  Chile  may  be  vLsited  by  those  interested 
in  educational  matters.  It  has  several  departments,  the  main 
building  on  the  Alaineda  occupying  the  block  between  San 
Diej40  and  Arturo  Prat.  Here  are  the  general  offices,  the 
University  Libi-ary  and  the  Department  of  Physical  and 
Natural  Sciences  termed  the  Engineering  School.  A  hall 
in  the  form  of  a  theater  is  in  the  part  of  the  building  which 
scparati^s  the  two  patios.  A  new  Engineering  building  in 
the  suburbs  was  to  receive  this  Department,  then  to  be  re- 
l)Iaced  by  the  Law  School,  the  largest  of  the  various  branches. 
\n  the  Quinta  Normal  is  the  building  of  the  ^ledical  School 
with  handsome  classical  facade,  containing  large  halls,  and 
patios  ornamented  with  shrubs  and  flowers.  There  is  a  mod- 
ern building  for  the  Dental  School  and  an  annex  for  Piiar- 
macy.  It  is  interesting  to  note  that  in  most  of  the  South 
American  countries  coeducation  is  rigorously  avoided  in  the 
lower  schools  while  permitted  in  most  of  the  universities, 
conilitions  exactly  opposite  to  those  in  some  parts  of  the 
United  States.  A  good  number  of  women  in  Chile  study 
medicine,  dentistry,  pharmacy,  etc.,  with  the  men. 

The  Military  School  on  the  Avenue  Blanco  Encalada  facing 
Dieciocho  street  now  occupies  a  fine  large  building  after  a 
checkered  career.  Founded  ^larch  IG,  1817,  by  the  Supreme 
Director  Bernardo  O'lliggins,  it  is  the  oldest  in  South  Amer- 
ica, though  it  has  experienced  several  interruptions.  The 
present  edifice  was  decreed  in  1887  by  the  progressive  but 
unfortunate  President  Balmaceda,  though  not  until  1!)0;{  did 
it  become  established  as  now  existing.  The  school  has  as 
its  head  a  German  officer,  Col.  Alfred  Schocnmeyer,  and  pro- 
vides courses  of  instruction  sinular  to  those  in  tiie  Gei-man 
institutions.  The  building  contains  all  suital)le  conditinns 
of  convenience  and  hygiene,  a  covered  riding  .school,  shooting 
galleries,  patio  facilities  for  gymnastics,  laboratories  of  science 
and  of  military  models. 

The  Mdilarif  Museum,  in  11.111  housed  in  the  ArsenaUs  do 


190  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

Guerra  next  to  the  Military  School,  has  ])een  removed  to 
rooms  in  the  Fine  Arts  Bnildinp^,  Parcjue  Forestal.  It 
contains  many  historical  relics:  the  armor  worn  by  Valdivia 
during  the  conquest,  a  chair  which  he  occasionally  used 
in  the  brief  intervals  from  fighting,  cannon  brought  over  the 
Andes  by  Gen.  San  Martin  to  aid  in  freeing  the  country  of 
Spanish  dominion ;  a  marble  urn  enclosing  the  hearts  of  four 
heroes  who  fell  in  the  battle  of  Concepcion  in  the  effort  to 
save  the  Chilian  colors  from  the  hands  of  their  Peruvian 
opponents;  the  flag  of  the  Esmeralda,  commanded  by  Arturo 
Prat,  and  sunk  in  the  battle  of  Iquique  ]\Iay  21,  1879;  a 
marble  bust  of  Manuel  Rodriguez  who,  in  the  War  of  Inde- 
pendence, among  other  brave  deeds  as  scout  and  spy,  three 
times  crossed  the  Andes  on  foot;  other  objects  of  interest,  be- 
sides cannon,  flags,  arms,  and  trophies  won  in  many  a  fierce 
battle. 


CHAPTER  XX 
SANTIAGO  TO  BUENOS  AIRES  BY  SEA 

Southern  Chile  and  the  Straits  of  Magellan.  The  great 
majority  oi'  tourists  will  proceed  from  SautiajiO  by  rail  over 
moimtains  and  plains  to  Buenos  Aires,  being  influenced 
tliereto  by  several  considerations.  Of  tliese  the  strongest  may 
be  the  fact  that  the  journey  thus  made  occupies  only  48  hours 
(the  return  38),  while  by  sea  it  requires  twelve  days,  an 
important  consideration  in  a  brief  tour.  Also  in  view  of  the 
several  Aveeks  already  spent  on  the  ocean  and  the  several 
more  to  come,  all  but  the  real  lover  of  steamboat  travel  will 
I)refcr  the  land  for  a  change,  especially  with  the  prospect  of 
the  fine  mountain  scenery  always  visible  on  the  Trans-Andine 
journey  and  the  possibility  of  a  glimpse  of  mighty  Aconcagua, 
which  still  claims  pre-eminence  as  the  culminating  i)oiiit  of  tiie 
Western  Hemisphere. 

On  the  other  liand  the  route  across  the  Andes,  formerly 
blocked  to  general  traffic  for  half  the  year  by  reason  of  the 
winter  snows,  may  yet  be  impassable  for  a  month  or  two,  even 
longer,  by  reason  of  the  great  avalanches  which  on  the  ("liilian 
side  of  the  tunnel  are  liable  in  winter  or  spring  to  ob-struct 
the  track.  When  such  a  condition  prevails,  the  longer  way 
around  may  easily  become  the  shorter  in  time.  A  few  will 
at  any  pei-iod  prefer  the  ]\lagellan  route  from  inability  to 
endure  the  10,000  feet  altitude  of  the  mountain  journey,  from 
affection  for  the  sea,  or  from  an  especial  desire  to  traverse  the 
famous  Straits,  discovered  by  ^Ma^'ellan  in  1^20  on  the  first 
arouud-the-world  voyage,  and  to  pass  the  southern  continental 
limit  of  the  nuiin  land  if  not  the  dreaded  (,'ape  Horn. 

The  leisurely  tourist  who  desires  to  see  everything  of  im- 
portance may  enjoy  the  chief  pleasures  of  both  routes:  {^oing 
l)y  rail  to  Puente  del  Inca  on  the  east  side  of  the  mountain, 
or  better,  on  to  ^lendoza  on  the  edge  of  the  great  Argi'Utiuc 

191 


192  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

plain,  returning  to  Chile  by  the  old  route,  the  splendid  horse- 
back and  former  diligence  trail  from  Las  Cuevas  over  the 
once  frequented  pass.  Thus  he  may  delight  in  near  and  dis- 
tant views  of  splendid  cliffs  and  mountains,  and  pause  to 
contemplate  among  tlie  everlasting  hills  the  impressive  image 
of  a  colossal  Christ  standing  on  the  frontier  of  two  great 
countries,  an  emblem  of  the  eternal  peace  and  friendship  to 
which  these  nations  have  sworn. 

The  tourist  who  always  prefers  to  travel  by  sea  may  at 
Valparaiso  take  a  P.  S.  N.  steamer  (they  sail  once  in  two 
weeks)  for  IMontevideo,  where  he  must  change  for  the  short 
run  to  Buenos  Aires.  All  of  these  boats  call  on  the  way  at 
Coronel  (or  Lota)  and  Punta  Arenas,  every  other  one  also 
at  Port  Stanley,  Falkland  Islands,  the  voyage  occupying  11 
or  12  days  to  Montevideo.  A  boat  of  the  Kosmos  Line  may  be 
taken,  although  they  no  longer  as  formerly  go  through  Smyth 
Channel,  all  now  missing  the  fine  scenery  of  the  fjords. 
Persons  desiring  to  see  more  of  Chile  may  go  b,y  rail  down  the 
famed  Central  Valley,  the  wonderful  fruit  and  agricultural 
section,  and  through  the  beautiful  lake  region,  taking  the 
steamer  at  Coronel.  A  peculiarity  of  this  longitudinal  valley 
extending  several  hundred  miles  between  two  ranges  of  moun- 
tains parallel  to  the  sea  is  that  instead  of  being  watered  by  a 
single  stream  running  lengthwise,  it  is  crossed  by  a  number 
of  rivers  flowing  west  into  the  ocean.  The  railroad  is  now 
opened  to  the  south  for  a  distance  of  400  miles  to  Puerto 
Montt  on  the  Gulf  of  Ancud.  Although  sleeping  cars  are 
provided,  the  journey  should  be  made  by  day  for  the  enjoy- 
ment of  the  scener}^ 

For  a  considerable  distance  south  of  Santiago  towns  and 
villages  are  numerous,  some  of  them  especially  frequented  in 
the  summer.  Almost  all  kinds  of  fruits,  vegetables,  and  ce- 
reals are  raised  to  perfection  in  various  parts  of  the  valley. 
In  the  earlier  part  of  the  journey  there  are  views  of  lofty 
Andean  peaks;  farther  south  the  range  is  lower,  but  with 
a  multitude  of  lakes  and  dense  virgin  forests,  the  scenery  is 
no  less  beautiful.  From  Talca,  a  prosperous  town  of  15,000 
on  the  Maule  River,  50  miles  south  of  Santiago,  a  branch  line 
runs  to  the  small  but  pleasant  town  of  Constitucion.  It  was 
in  Talca,  Avhich  was  founded  in  1692  and  partly  destroyed  by 


SOUTIIP]RX  CHILE  193 

a  terrible  earthquake  in  1835,  that  Director  O'lliggiiis  signed 
the  Dechiration  of  Independence.  The  city  has  a  pretty  plaza 
with  a  fine  Government  House,  theater,  church,  and  other 
handsome  edifices. 

Chilian,  100  miles  farther,  is  a  modern  city  famous  for 
its  tine  horses  and  cattle.  It  affords  an  unusual  opportunity 
to  see  the  country  people,  who  come  in  to  the  market-place 
on  the  outskirts  of  the  city,  two  or  three  times  a  week, 
especially  Saturdays.  Wares  are  well  displayed  in  booths, 
gay  with  man  tan,  gorgeous  ribbons  and  lace,  equestrian  out- 
fits, pottery,  baskets,  and  horn  ornaments.  Street  cars  run 
to  the  historic  ruins  of  old  Chilian,  the  birthplace  of  Don 
Bernardo  O'lliggins.  The  famous  baths  and  hot  springs  of 
Chilian  are  beautifully  situated  among  the  mountains  about 
60  miles  distant  at  an  altitude  of  nearly  8000  feet. 

The  railroad  crosses  many  rivers  on  some  fine  bridges,  one 
nearly  i^  of  a  mile  long  and  300  feet  above  the  ^lalleco 
River  at  Collipulli.  A  bridge  %  of  a  mile  long  crosses 
the  Bio-Bio,  along  the  boundary  line  between  the  Spanish 
American  settlements  and  the  country  of  the  fierce  Arau- 
canians.  From  Rosendo  a  branch  line  leads  to  the  cities  near 
the  sea,  Conccpcion,  and  its  seaport  TalcaJiuano  240  miles 
from  Valparaiso,  a  port  both  of  commercial  and  military 
importance  on  a  large  bay  in  which  a  dry  dock  has  been 
arranged  for  the  repair  and  the  cleaning  of  naval  vessels. 
Conccpcion,  which  was  founded  by  Valdivia,  but  has  licen 
several  times  destroyed  both  by  Araucaniaus  and  by  earth- 
quakes, is  now  a  substantial  modern  city  of  50,000  inhalj- 
itants.  the  third  in  size  in  the  Republic. 

Coronel  and  Lota,  five  miles  apart  on  the  IJay  of  Arauco, 
40  miles  south  of  Talcahuano,  ai-e,  one  or  tiie  other,  regular 
ports  of  call  for  all  the  steamships,  and  the  only  one  below 
Valparaiso  for  the  P.  S.  N.  boats  before  Punta  Arenas.  Hence 
one  going  by  rail  to  Puerto  ]\Iontt  would  be  obliged  to  return 
to  this  point  for  his  steamer;  unless  possibly  the  Kosmos 
boats  call  farther  down.  The  ])oats  call  at  Coronel  or 
Lota  to  procure  a  supply  of  coal.  This  is  pre-eminently 
the  coal  region  of  Chile,  of  whieh  Lota  is  the  center.  In  1S52 
a  lu-operty  was  pun-based  hei-e  l)y  Don  Matias  Cousifio  who 
explored  for  coal  with  success.     His  son  Luis,   in  18(32  iu- 


194  TIIK  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

heriting  the  property,  in  1869  formed  a  company,  keeping 
most  of  tlie  shares.  His  widow  later  becoming  sole  owner  of 
the  company  was  called  the  richest  woman  in  the  world,  with 
a  property  of  at  least  $70,000,000.  She  died  in  1898  leaving 
six  children.  Hers  was  the  greatest  financial  enterprise  then 
carried  on  by  a  Chilian.  The  capital  of  the  Company  is  now 
$20,000,000.  Half  a  million  tons  of  coal  are  annually  pro- 
duced, YiQ  of  which  is  used  by  the  Company  for  smelters  and 
their  own  steamships,  the  rest  being  sold. 

To  visit  the  mines  there  is  a  drop  in  an  electric  car  of 
nearly  14  of  ^  mile.  There  are  streets,  shops,  offices,  res- 
taurants, stalls  for  horses,  black-smiths'  shop,  etc.,  down  be- 
low ;  and  the  workings  go  far  under  the  deep  sea  where  ships 
are  sailing  above.  There  is  good  rock  and  no  drip.  The 
Company  owns  copper  mines,  smelting  works,  pottery  and 
brick  works,  glass  and  bottle  factories,  etc.,  with  a  fleet  of 
steamers  and  sailing  vessels.  Five  thousand  workmen  are  em- 
ployed here,  for  whom  houses  are  supplied,  free  schools,  church, 
medical  attendance,  free  coal,  asylum  for  aged,  etc. 

The  Seiiora  spent  money  lavishly  at  home  and  in  Paris, 
where  she  was  well  known.  Lota  Park  was  laid  out  by  the 
most  skillful  landscape  gardeners  with  artistic  design  and 
picturesque  effects.  Stately  trees,  flower  beds,  all  plants  of 
temperate  climes  here  flourished  in  a  state  of  the  highest  cul- 
tivation. On  a  bluff  above  the  town,  it  has  wonderful  sylvan 
beauty;  with  grottoes,  bridges,  fountains,  cascades,  etc.,  mar- 
ble and  bronze  monuments,  deer  and  other  animals  in  the 
woods,  an  aviary  with  birds ;  near  the  center,  a  fine  marble 
statue  of  the  noted  Araucanian  chief,  Caupolican.  A  palace 
fit  for  royalty,  not  quite  completed,  it  is  falling  to  decay. 
Superb  wainscoting,  gold  and  white  frescoing,  exquisite  par- 
quetry, carved  mantels  and  sideboards,  priceless  curios  and 
paintings,  treasures  of  all  kinds  were  brought  from  Europe, 
many  never  unpacked.  The  Park  at  times  is  open  by 
courtesy  to  strangers,  a  spectacle  of  great  beauty,  though  per- 
haps of  melancholy.  The  Company  owning  200,000  acres  of 
farming  land  has  many  sheep  and  cattle  and  has  planted 
more  than  10,000,000  trees. 

Valdivia.  Still  farther  south  in  a  picturesque  site  on  the 
Calle-Calle  River  is  the  town  of  Valdivia  (pop.  12,000),  the 


SANTIAGO  TO  BUENOS  AIRES  BY  SEA        195 

fifth  city  founded  by  Pedro  de  Valdivia,  in  1552.  It  was  too 
far  from  his  base  for  that  period,  and  much  slaughter  fol- 
lowed in  fierce  battles  with  the  natives.  Near  its  port,  Corral, 
at  the  mouth  of  the  river  15  miles  away,  in  1820  occurred 
the  victory  of  Lord  Cochrane 's  fleet  over  the  Spanish.  For 
several  years  the  railroad  halted  at  Osorno  a  little  fartiier  on. 
Its  recent  extension  to  Puerto  Monti  on  the  north  shore  of 
the  Gulf  of  Reloncavi,  about  100  miles  beyond,  will  f^reatly 
enhance  the  prosperity  of  a  rich  and  beautiful  section  already 
sprinkled  with  thriving  German  colonists.  One  of  the  lakes 
near  by,  Llanquihue,  with  an  area  of  nearly  300  square  miles 
is  served  with  steam  navigation. 

The  boats  of  the  P.  S.  N.  Company  running  from  Callao 
to  Liverpool  reach  Lota  or  Coronel  the  day  after  leaving  \i\\- 
paraiso.  Five  days  later  they  arrive  at  Punta  Arenas;  in 
five  or  six  more  at  Montevideo. 

Sailing  towards  the  South  Pole,  the  coldest  region  on 
eartli,  the  winds  naturally  become  more  chill,  especially  if 
it  is  their  winter  season.  By  a  natural  perversity  of  fate,  it 
is  said  that  the  finest  scenery  is  usually  passed  at  night,  also 
it  is  often  foggy  or  it  snows,  so  little  may  be  seen.  After 
several  days  with  no  land  in  view,  the  sight  of  Cape  PilUir, 
rising  1395  feet  above  the  sea,  the  western  extremity  of  Deso- 
lation Island,  and  on  the  south  side,  the  western  outpost  of 
Ihe  Straits,  gives  a  thrill  of  pleasure.  On  the  northwest  side 
of  this  enti'ance  from  the  Pacific  are  the  three  Evangelists 
and  the  Sugar  Loaf,  columnar  rock,  more  impressive  than 
many  mountains.  From  Cape  Pillar  to  Cape  Virgenes  at  the 
eastern  entrance  of  the  Straits  it  is  240  miles  as  the  crow 
Hies  but  between  300  and  400  by  the  channel  which  must  be 
followed.  As  the  prevailing  winds  are  west,  sailing  shijis 
between  October  and  ]\Iarch  sometimes  go  through  from  the 
Pacific,  a  fair  passage  occupying  80  days,  but  they  more  gen- 
erally prefer  the  passing  around  Cape  Horn,  100  miles  south, 
wiiere  jagged  boulders  rise  1o  a  height  of  1391  feet  in  the 
midst  of  a  turbulent  sea;  for  despite  the  500  additional  miles 
of  open  water  it  in  open  with  less  danger  from  fogs,  cross 
currents,  etc.,  and  time  is  usually  saved.  Storms  are  frecpn-nt 
in  lliis  region,  but  if  the  wealliei-  favtu-s,  the  fine  scenery  in- 
cluding   glacier-covered    mountains,    deep    bays,    grim    elilVs, 


1%  TIIF.  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

gray  moss,  and  sparse  vegetation,  picturesque  icebergs,  the 
multitude  of  penguins,  sea-gulls,  an  occasional  albatross, 
seals  and  whales,  the  tints  of  sea  and  glaciers,  of  clouds  and 
crags,  forms  a  picture  which  some  persons  think  is  unequaled 
in  Norway  or  Alaska. 

Tourists  sailing  on  a  special  cruise  may  have  the  pleasure 
of  a  detour  to  the  south  to  obtain  a  finer  view  of  the  splendid 
mountain  Sarmiento;  not  so  high  as  many  others,  but  with 
its  7330  feet  of  altitude  in  this  latitude  presenting  an  im- 
posing spectacle,  at  the  base  dusky  woods  for  one-eighth  of 
the  heiglit,  then  6000  feet  of  snow  and  glaciers,  t^^o  of  tlie 
latter  indeed  reaching  down  to  the  sea. 

Punta  Arenas.  After  sailing  through  Magdalena  Channel 
southeast  to  Cape  Froward,  the  most  southern  point  of  the 
continental  mainland,  the  ship  turns  almost  north,  a  trifle 
to  the  east,  and  in  a  few  hours  comes  to  anchor  in  Lat.  53° 
off  Punta  Arenas,  the  most  southern  city  in  the  world,  900 
miles  nearer  the  South  Pole  than  Christ  Church,  New  Zealand, 
and  1600  nearer  than  Cape  Town.  From  Cape  Froward  west, 
the  British  Pilot  Book  says  the  weather  averages  11  hours 
daily  of  rain,  hail,  or  snow.  There  is  none  worse  in  any  in- 
habited part  of  the  globe:  but  the  region  is  not  unhealthy. 
The  city  of  about  12.000  people  is  a  flourishing  place  with 
wide  streets,  good  water  works  and  electric  lights,  a  hand- 
some cathedral,  appropriate  public  buildings,  and  many  fine 
residences.  A  museum  in  charge  of  some  Catholic  priests 
has  a  collection  of  the  fauna  of  the  country,  birds,  snakes, 
fish,  animals  including  a  woolly  horse,  a  unique  specimen 
with  wool  a  foot  long.  Also  pottery,  weapons,  and  utensils 
of  the  Fuegian  tribes  are  exhibited.  In  the  town,  furs,  fine 
guanaco  skins,  ostrich  feathers,  Indian  baskets,  etc.,  are  for 
sale,  and  most  persons  buy  souvenirs.  A  penal  colony  was 
first  established  by  the  Chilians  in  1843  at  Port  Famine  not 
far  away,  but  after  a  revolt  of  the  convicts  the  town  was 
established  here;  when  the  place  became  a  regular  port 
as  a  coaling  station  for  steamships  the  criminals  were  re- 
moved. It  was  soon  discovered  that  sheep  would  thrive  in 
this  locality:  many  large  ranches  have  been  established  in 
the  back  country,  so  that  16.000,000  pounds  have  been  shipped 
in  a  year.     The  Indians,  formerly  numerous,  are  now  almost 


TIKRRA    DEL    FUEC.O 


KNTUANCt;    It)    ANUlNt    -IL.NM.l.,     >  1111. lA.N    ••-lUt, 


SANTIAGO  TO  BUENOS  AIRES  BY  SEA        197 

exterminated,  though  some  Yahgans  and  Ouas  still  wander 
in  the  wilds  of  Ticrra  del  Fuego.  As  usual  most  of  the 
white  invaders  of  whatever  nationality  have  united  in  their 
destruction,  to  which  the  diseases  of  the  white  man  have  also 
contributed. 

A  settlement  still  farther  south  on  Beagle  Clianncl  in  the 
Argentine  dominion  is  a  village  inhabited  only  by  criminals 
and  their  guards,  few  of  the  latter  being  needed,  as  escape 
is  iinpos.sil)le  except  by  sea.  On  this  side  of  Cape  Froward 
the  ground  is  flatter,  the  air  dryer,  the  country  treeless  and 
of  small  interest.  Nine  hours  from  Punta  Arenas  the  light- 
house on  Cape  Virgenes,  135  feet  high,  is  passed  and  a  three 
days'  sail  on  the  Atlantic  in  a  direct  voyage  brings  one  to 
IMontevideo. 

Port  Stanley  on  the  Falkland  Islands,  a  genuine  English 
town  of  2000  people,  has  a  fine  harbor  with  supplies  for  ships 
and  facilities  for  repairs;  no  trees,  but  a  sedgy  grass,  called 
tussac,  7  feet  high,  excellent  for  horses  and  cattle,  and  with 
roots  something  like  celery,  edible  for  man.  The  weather  is 
never  very  cold  but  the  average  temperature  is  low. 


CIIAPTP]R  XXI 
ACROSS  THE  ANDES  TO  MENDOZA 

The  journey  from  Santiago  to  Buenos  Aires  by  the  passage 
of  the  Cordillera,  in  former  clays  seldom  undertaken  between 
May  and  October  save  by  the  hardy  mail-carriers,  may,  since 
the  opening  of  the  railroad  in  1910,  generally  be  accomplished 
in  any  month  of  the  year.  Sometimes,  however,  traffic  is 
temporarily  suspended  on  account  of  snow-slides  blocking 
the  track  on  the  Chilian  side  of  the  tunnel.  Such  incon- 
venience, oftener  arising  in  the  southern  winter  or  early 
spring,  will  doubtless  in  time  be  obviated  by  the  building  of 
snow-sheds  along  the  dangerous  sections,  as  has  been  done 
in  the  United  States.  At  present,  from  June  to  October,  it 
may  be  well  to  inquire  about  conditions  before  purchasing  a 
ticket,  though  prolonged  suspension  of  traffic  is  exceptional. 

The  excursion  across  the  Andes,  less  fatiguing  than  for- 
merly, is  also  far  less  exciting.  The  comfortable  safety  of  a 
ear  ride  through  the  tunnel  is  tame  indeed  in  comparison 
with  the  passage  by  coach  or  muleback  over  the  cinnhrc  2000 
feet  above.  Yet  as  prosaic  comfort  is  ever  more  popular 
than  unusual  and  adventurous  experience,  tourists  to-day  by 
thousands  and  tens  of  thousands  make  the  journey  where 
formerly  passed  tens  and  hundreds.  Still,  even  to  the  gazer 
from  a  car  window  the  excursion  is  memorable;  to  the  lover 
of  sublime  grandeur  the  day  affords  a  rare  joy.  Very  dif- 
ferent is  this  ride  from  those  across  the  mountains  farther 
north.  Until  the  completion  of  the  line  from  Chimbote  up 
the  Huailas  Valley,  the  Oroj^a  railroad  alone  will  bear  com- 
parison with  this.  Nor  need  comparison  be  made.  Each 
is  truly  an  elevating  experience  and  wholly  unlike  the  other. 

An  afternoon  departure  from  Santiago  is  customary,  often 
as  late  as  6.15  p.  m.  The  night  must  be  spent  at  Los  Andes 
whence  the  start  is  made  in  the  early  morning.     "With  ample 

198 


ACROSS  THE  ANDES  TO  MEXDOZA  199 

time  at  one's  disposal,  it  is  well  to  take  a  i"oren<)(jii  train  I'roin 
Santiago  to  have  a  few  hours  at  the  pleasant  Chilian  sum- 
mer resort  which  affords  opportunities  for  many  delightful 
strolls,  while  th<;  scenery  along  the;  way  makes  a  daylight 
journey  desira])le.  The  monument  to  the  Clark  Brothers 
unveiled  at  Los  Andes,  October  22,  lUll,  is  a  worthy  honor 
to  the  initiators  of  this  great  railway.  As  early  as  1870 
they  applied  for  a  concession,  though  it  was  1886  before  the 
first  was  received;  while  they  were  unal)le  to  complete  the 
work,  they  have  the  credit  of  its  beginning.  After  the  Caaa 
Grace  took  charge  on  the  Chilian  side  good  progress  was 
made.  In  li)06  it  was  arranged  to  pierce  the  tunnel  under 
one  control,  and  the  task  was  accoinplislied  in  time  for  the 
Argentine  Centennial  in  1910.  As  far  as  Llai-Llai,  where 
connection  is  made  with  the  train  from  Valparaiso,  the  route 
lies  north  along  the  valley  over  the  road  wliich  has  pre- 
viously been  traversed.  At  the  junction,  venders  of  delicious 
fruit  are  ever  on  hand  selling,  according  to  the  .sea.sou,  j^ears, 
peaches,  oranges,  grapes,  cherries,  or  figs,  at  prices  calculated 
to  tempt  the  hungry  tourist.  Llai-Llai  is  a  pleasant  little 
town  of  about  6000  people,  at  a  height  of  2625  feet  above 
the  sea.  San  Felipe,  somewhat  larger,  is  passed  before  reach- 
ing (to  use  the  full  name),  Santa  Rosa  de  los  A)idcs. 

A  few  ro<ls  from  the  station  is  the  hotel  Sud  Americano 
where  the  night  is  passed.  The  town  boasts  of  another,  but 
through  travelers  prefer  the  pleasant  little  establishment, 
from  the  rear  of  which  the  train  early  in  the  morning  departs. 
In  the  summer  the  climate  of  Los  Andes  is  delightful,  the 
evenings  always  cool ;  at  other  seasons  the  nights  are  cold 
and  fi-osty.  Leave  word  in  the  oHice  when  you  wish  to  be 
called,  or  you  may  be  ovi-rlooked  and  miss  your  train  or 
your  coffee,  which  is  not  agreeable.  The  cars  are  apt  lo  be 
full,  so  it  is  well  to  hasten,  if  friends  wish  seats  together,  or 
at  times  to  ol)taiM  any  at   all. 

The  track  follows  the  Aconcagua  Kiver,  on  whi«-h  Los 
Andes  is  situated,  up  a  beautiful  valley,  after  S  or  10  niiles 
growing  narrower  between  steeper  walls.  From  lu\»ii-iaiit 
vegetation  to  bare  rocks  and  snow,  from  beauty  to  grandeur, 
the  change  is  quickly  made.  The  river  l)ec()nies  rapidly 
smaller  as  we  jiass  above  tiie  merry  litlU'  streams  which  cou- 


200  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

tribute  to  its  madly  rushing  torrent.  One  bridge  is  called 
the  Puente  de  las  Viscachas,  these  being  rabbit-like  animals 
resembling  the  chinchilla  but  with  coarser  fur.  The  rocks  of 
varying  hue  in  sunliglit  and  shadow,  cliffs  and  gorges,  and 
the  foaming  stream  continually  attract  the  eye.  A  hundred 
yards  beyond  the  station,  Los  Loros,  is  the  place  called  Salto 
del  Soldado,  the  Soldier's  Leap,  to  see  which  one  must  keep 
a  sharp  lookout  on  the  left,  the  train  passing  on  a  shelf  with 
the  stream  60  feet  below.  Various  tales  are  told  of  the 
origin  of  the  name,  one  that  in  the  "War  of  Independence  a 
patriot  escaped  from  the  enemy  by  leaping  the  narrow  gorge 
w^hich  is  crossed  by  the  train  on  a  bridge.  At  the  station, 
Rio  Blanco,  White  River,  a  stream  of  that  name  joins  the 
Aconcagua.  Not  far  beyond  is  Guardia  Vieja,  where  for  more 
than  two  centuries  a  sentry  or  watchman  has  been  stationed 
for  the  protection  of  the  traveler,  a  necessary  though  in- 
adequate safe-guard,  as  in  the  old  days  bandits  sometimes  lay 
in  wait  even  for  parties  of  considerable  size.  Robberies  were 
not  infrequent  and  murders  were  by  no  means  rare. 

In  ascending  the  Visp  Valley  to  Zermatt  by  the  aid  of  the 
rack  and  pinion  system,  also  employed  on  the  Andine,  a 
height  of  3000  feet  is  gained  in  a  distance  of  28  miles.  On 
this  road  7000  feet  are  climbed  in  35  miles,  2000  of  these  in 
the  last  8  to  Juncal,  a  rapid  ascent  for  a  traffic  as  dis- 
tinguished from  a  purely  mountain  railway.  Juncal  is 
noteworthy,  as  the  place  where  formerly  the  night  was  spent 
by  those  tourists  and  business  men  designing  in  the  early  da"\vii 
to  set  out  on  saddle  animal  or  in  mountain  wagon  for  the 
summit  and  the  other  side.  Farther  on  is  a  tranquil  little 
lake,  above  9000  feet,  an  opalescent  gem,  at  times  turquoise 
or  sapphire,  called  the  Lago  del  Inca.  Now  the  track  makes 
a  great  curve  into  an  immense  couloir,  passing  at  the  foot  or 
along  the  side  of  cliffs  or  steep  slopes,  where,  as  in  places 
lower  down,  rocks  small  and  large  seem  ready  to  fall,  as 
others  have  already  descended.  From  the  farther  side  of  the 
great  curve  we  soon  look  across  at  the  track  1000  feet  be- 
neath. "We  gaze  in  admiration  upon  the  splendid  gloomy 
cliffs  with  tints  of  slate  color  from  blue-gray  to  black,  and 
on  rocks  with  delicate  hues  of  pink  and  cream,  splashed 
with  red  and  bronze  or  green;  intermingled  with  these  are 


ACROSS  THE  ANDES  TO  :\IEXDOZA  201 

patches  of  pure  uliite  snow.  Observation  cars  would  greatly 
increase  the  pleasure.  Too  soon  at  Caracoles,  at  a  height 
of  10,486  feet,  the  tunnel's  portal  is  reached  and  tlie  splendor 
of  the  majestic  scene  has  vanished.  Now  for  almost  two 
miles,  to  be  exact,  10,385  feet,  the  train  goes  on  through  the 
backbone  of  the  continent  at  an  elevation  about  the  same 
as  the  tunnel's  length.  Near  the  center,  the  international 
boundary  is  passed;  hence,  after  ten  minutes  of  darkness,  com- 
ing once  more  to  daylight,  one  is  in  the  great  country  of 
Argentina  on  the  east  side  of  the  Andes,  still  in  a  vast  wilder- 
ness of  gorges,  rocks,  and  peaks  of  multifarious  shapes  and 
colors,  diversified  by  immense  fields  of  snow,  with  many  l)rief 
visions  of  grandeur  Avhicli  one  would  fain  tarry  to  enjoy. 
Fortunate  the  traveler,  who,  7  or  8  miles  below  Las  Cuevas, 
has  at  the  head  of  a  side  valley  at  the  north  a  glimpse  of 
colossal  Aconcagua  15  miles  away,  a  long  ridge  of  snow  arch- 
ing into  two  domes,  with  a  sheer  drop  of  10,000  feet  on  its 
black  southern  wall;  and  farther  on  a  sight  of  Tupungalo, 
30  miles  away  at  the  south :  both  mountains  first  climbed  in 
1897  by  the  Fitzgerald  Expedition,  though  he  unfortunately 
was  compelled  by  mountain  sickness  to  forego  the  satisfaction 
of  attaining  either  sunnnit  himself.  The  first  to  reach  the 
supposed  apex  of  the  Western  Hemisphere,  the  top  of  Aconca- 
gua, according  to  the  latest  measurement,  22,817  feet,  was 
Mafias  Zurbriggen,  the  celebrated  Swiss  guide,  who  in  almost 
every  land  has  led  English  and  Americans  to  the  summits  of 
noted  mountains.  Alone,  January  14,  181)7,  he  gained  this 
height,  and  there  erected  a  stone  man  as  is  the  custom  where 
possible.  In  April  of  the  same  year,  the  first  ascent  of 
Tupun<iafo,  21,451  feet,  was  made,  also  by  Zurbriirgcn,  ami 
flu;  i'higlisluiKin,  Vines. 

Puente  del  Inca.  The  lirst  station  in  Argentina  is  Las 
Cuevas:  then  Ave  drop  (piickly  to  Piicntc  del  Inca  where  a  few 
moments  are  allowed  for  tea.  The  contnist  between  the  green 
and  luxuriant  vegetation  of  the  Chilian  side  ami  the  barren- 
ness of  the  Argentine  is  singularly  opposite  to  that  in  l'«'ru, 
where  the  western  slopes  of  tlie  Andes  are  mostly  desert  whib' 
the  eastern  are  clothed  with  the  richest  verdure.  At  I'liciitf 
del  Inca  is  a  cuimous  foi-iiiation  from  wjiicli  tlie  place  is  named, 
a  natural  bridge  of  stratilied  rock,  one  of  nature's  marvels. 


202  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

The  stream  has  perforated  a  bank  al)out  20  feet  tliick  so  as 
to  form,  80  feet  above  the  river,  a  fine  arched  bridge,  at  the 
top  150  feet  long  and  20  wide,  and  nearly  30  feet  thick. 
The  piers  have  been  strengthened  by  calcareous  deposits 
from  springs  which  gush  from  the  earth  just  at  the  bridge. 
On  the  left  bank  of  the  stream  a  path  of  steps  partly  cut  in 
the  rocks  leads  down  to  hot  waters.  First  comes  the  Bath 
of  Venus,  an  effective  grotto  of  white  stalactites.  Next  is 
the  Champagne  Spring,  its  foaming  waters  revealing  a  con- 
siderable pressure  from  below.  Among  other  warm  springs 
beyond  is  one  called  Mercury.  On  all  sides  gush  forth  these 
waters  cold,  hot,  and  tepid,  saturated  with  carbonic  acid 
gas;  the  Venus  is  86°,  the  Champagne  93°,  the  same  when  the 
path  is  covered  with  six  feet  of  snow.  The  waters  are  supe- 
rior to  the  more  noted  Vichy  in  containing  twice  the  quantity 
of  carbonic  acid,  hence  greater  effervescence;  and  five  times 
as  much  iron.  This  renders  them  a  real  treasure,  a  few 
months'  treatment  causing  maladies  to  disappear  (they  say) 
upon  which  the  Vichy  waters  make  no  impression.  The  iron, 
salts,  and  gas  of  the  waters  make  them  efficacious  in  gout, 
rheumatism,  and  severe  stomach  affections,  as  well  as  an  ex- 
cellent tonic  for  those  who  believe  such  to  be  required.  Sul- 
phur, good  for  skin  diseases,  is  also  present.  The  Hotel  del 
Inca  affords  comfortable  accommodations  (including  a  billiard 
room)  ;  all  that  could  be  expected  at  an  altitude  of  8924  feet, 
for  a  daily  fee  of  six  pesos  ($2.64)  with  some  extras. 

One  who  is  ambitious  to  ascend  one  of  the  lofty  peaks 
near  by,  or  who  would  merely  stroll  to  a  lesser  height  to  gaze 
upon  those  above,  or  who  would  wander  in  strange  valleys 
and  on  ragged  slopes  will  here  find  the  most  favorable  head- 
quarters for  his  rambles,  as  well  as  cure  for  many  ailments. 
While  the  great  mountains,  Aconcagua  and  Tupungato,  no 
longer  afford  opportunity  for  a  first  ascent,  there  are  many 
other  peaks  of  various  altitudes,  the  summits  of  which  are 
yet  untrodden ;  one,  lofty  ]Mercedario,  about  22,000  feet,  to 
the  north  of  Aconcagua,  believed  by  some  to  be  second  in 
height  to  that  alone.  Expert  climbers  only  should  attempt 
exploits  of  such  magnitude,  and  these  not  without  Alpine 
equipment  and  more ;  for  to  the  ordinary  paraphernalia  of 
proper  shoes,  ropes,  and  ice  axes  must  be  added  tents,  sleep- 


ACROSS  THE  ANDES  TO  .MENDOZA  203 

iiig  bags,  etc.  The  season  for  c-liinbing  here  is  not  the  same 
as  in  Peru  and  Bolivia,  but  during  the  summer  of  this  re- 
gion, December  and  January.  Strange  to  say,  although  in 
the  Temperate  Zone,  so  vastly  farther  from  the  e(iuator, 
these  mountains  have  infinitely  less  snow  upon  their  slopes 
than  have  Huascariin  and  Illampu.  They  are  therefore  much 
easier  to  climb,  making  Swiss  guides  not  an  imperative  neces- 
sity, so  far  as  the  technical  difficulties  are  concerned :  though 
whether  reliable  companions  as  porters  could  be  secured  upon 
the  ground  is  an  extremely  doubtful  matter. 

But  on  this  journey  by  rail  how  nuich  has  one  missed! 
Discomfort  indeed  has  been  avoided;  but  at  the  cost  of  a 
glorious  and  exciting  experience.  In  former  days,  what  a 
rush  and  bustle  at  Juncal !  in  the  chilly  hour  between  tiiree 
and  four  a.  m.,  when  an  army  of  pleasure  and  of  business 
travelers  hurried  to  secure  places  in  the  mountain  wagons,  or 
to  select  a  gentle  and  sturdy  animal  for  the  seven  hours' 
ride.  The  coach  drivers  were  reckless  Jehus  who  madly  raced 
for  the  summit  and  then  for  the  lower  goal,  amid  a  caravan 
of  freight  wagons,  baggage  animals,  and  riders,  the  latter  to 
their  joy  soon  left  behind.  Though  the  roads  were  called 
good  they  were  deep  with  sand,  and  have  no  such  great  curves 
as  the  roads  over  Alpine  passes.  Short  zigzags  with  acute 
angles,  a  roadbed  rough  with  ruts  and  stones,  few  walls  at 
the  corners  where  a  slip  over  the  edge  would  mean  a  roll  of 
a  few  thousand  feet,  made  a  ride  in  a  swaying  eoaeh  behind 
horses  going  at  a  gallop  assuredly  exciting  to  people  with  any 
nerves.  Some,  once  embarked  and  unable  to  escape,  would 
turn  their  thoughts  from  danger  to  admiration  of  the  scenery, 
reflecling  perhaps  that  aceidents  were  rare.  The  view  of 
mighty  walls,  of  glaciers  near  at  hand,  of  distant  glorious 
mountains;  the  fine  pure  air  ever  colder,  thougli  alas!  ever 
thinner,  was  a  blissful  experience  for  those  who  eouhi  enjoy  it ; 
l)ut  not  for  the  faint-iiearted  eilher  literally  or  figuratively. 
Here  and  there  one  would  grow  faint,  become  unconscioiis.  per- 
haps even  pitch  out  of  the  wagon:  oftener  a  st;d\vai-t  man 
than  a  frail  woman.  On  they  would  go,  their  friends  un- 
terlain  whether  a  temporary  weakness  or  a  serious,  i)ossil)ly 
fatal  affection  was  attacking  the  vielim. 

At  last  the  cumbrc  or  highest  point  was   icachd.    IJ.T'.M.i 


204  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

feet  above  the  sea ;  not  a  sharp  ridge,  but  a  nearly  level  stretch 
a  quarter  of  a  mile  across  among  the  massive  hills  and  moun- 
tains :  a  tremendous  range  of  gloomy,  desolate,  forbidding 
peaks,  or  a  splendid  rampart  of  majestic,  glorious  moun- 
tains, according  to  the  soul  and  mood  of  the  spectator.  Here 
in  the  midst  of  this  great  solitude  is  the  most  impressive 
monument,  men  say,  in  all  the  world,  the  Christ  of  the  Andes, 
a  bronze  figure  of  Christ  of  heroic  size,  26  feet,  one  hand  out- 
stretched in  blessing,  the  other  supporting  a  still  higher 
cross.  The  circumstance  of  its  erection,  the  sentiment  in- 
volved, as  well  as  the  unique  position  of  the  monument, 
make  it  the  most  remarkable  in  the  world's  history. 

Chile  and  Argentina  in  1900  were  on  the  verge  of  war 
over  a  boundary  dispute  involving  80,000  square  miles  of  ter- 
ritory in  the  Patagonian  country.  Immense  sums  expended 
for  warships  and  other  preparations  were  the  cause  of  ab- 
normally high  taxes,  the  products  of  which  were  needed  rather 
for  the  development  of  physical  resources  and  of  education. 
The  British  Ministers  employed  their  good  offices  and  two 
bishops,  one  of  each  country,  traveled  among  their  towns  and 
villages  preaching  the  cause  of  Peace  and  Arbitration.  Bishop 
Benavente  in  Buenos  Aires,  on  Easter  Sunday  1900,  first 
suggested  the  erecting  of  a  statue  of  Christ  upon  the  boundary, 
to  prevent  if  possible  any  recurrence  of  strife.  A  treaty  was 
made,  the  controversy  was  submitted  to  the  arbitration  of 
the  British  IMonarch;  King  Edward  entrusted  the  case  to 
jurists  and  geographers  whose  decision,  dividing  the  disputed 
territory,  was  cheerfully  accepted.  In  June  1903,  Chile  and 
Argentina,  pleased  with  the  outcome  of  this  matter,  made  a 
general  arbitration  treaty,  the  first  ever  concluded  among 
nations;  a  considerable  disarmament  followed  releasing 
much  money  for  needed  internal  improvements,  and  good  feel- 
ing and  confidence  have  replaced  bitterness  and  jealousy. 

In  1901  the  women  of  Buenos  Aires,  on  the  initiative  of 
Seuora  de  Costa,  President  of  the  Christian  IMothers'  Asso- 
ciation of  that  city,  acting  upon  the  suggestion  of  Bishop 
Benavente,  undertook  to  secure  funds  for  a  statue.  A  young 
Argentine  sculptor,  Mateo  Alonso,  created  the  design;  the 
statue  was  cast  from  old  Argentine  cannon.  In  May  1903, 
the  Chilian  representatives  came  by  sea  to  Buenos  Aires  for 


ACROSS  THE  ANDES  TO  MEXDOZA  205 

the  ratification  of  the  treaties,  Avhen  the  statue  of  Christ  was 
inspected  and  Sefiora  de  Costa  pk^aded  tliat  it  shoidd  be 
placed  on  the  highest  practicabU^  point  on  the  bouiuhiry  of  the 
two  countries.  In  February,  1904,  tlie  final  steps  were  taken. 
The  statue  was  carried  by  rail  to  ]\Iendoza,  and  on  gun  car- 
riages up  the  mountain  side,  soldiers  and  sailors  in  dangerous 
spots  taking  the  ropes  from  the  mules.  On  tiie  l:{th  of 
March,  1904,  the  dedication  ceremonies  took  place  in  the 
presence  of  hundreds  who  from  both  sides  had  come  up  the 
night  before  and  here  encamped  to  witness  this  extraordinary 
spectacle.  The  Argentines  stood  on  the  soil  of  Chile,  the 
Chilians  on  that  of  Argentina.  Tiie  booming  of  gun.s,  the 
sound  of  music  re-echoed  through  the  mountains.  When  all 
was  ready,  the  monument  unveiled,  there  was  a  moment  of 
solemn  silence,  followed  by  the  dedication  of  the  statue  to  tiie 
whole  world,  as  a  lesson  of  peace  and  good  will. 

The  monument  consists  of  an  octagonal  granite  column  22 
feet  high  upon  which  is  a  hemisphere  of  granite  with  a 
partial  sketch  of  the  world's  outlines.  On  this  stands  the 
bronze  Christ  26  feet  higli,  the  cross  extending  five  feet  above. 
Two  bronze  tablets  on  the  granite  base,  the  gift  of  the  AVork- 
ingmen's  and  Workingwomen 's  Unions  of  Buenos  Aires, 
bear  inscriptions  in  Spanish,  on  one  side  statistics  and  dates, 
on  the  other — 

"Sooner  shall  these  mountains  crumble  info  dust  than- 
Argentines  and  Chiliaris  break  the  peace  to  ichich  th<]i  have 
pledged  themselves  at  the  feet  of  Christ  the  Iiedccnur." 

Until  the  opening  of  the  railroad  in  I\Iay  1910,  this  great 
statue  was  annually  passed  by  thousands  who  jiaused  here 
for  a  moment  in  the  midst  of  their  dizzy  ride  to  rest  and  to 
gaze  upon  the  scene.  Now  it  stands  ever  lonely  between 
heaven  and  eai-th,  the  silence  no  more  broken  by  the  raucous 
shouts  of  swearing  coachmen  and  nudeteers,  or  by  the  crude 
jests  of  a  boisterous  throng;  to  the  few  who  now  venture 
along  that  solitary  way,  a  solemn  spectacle. 

On  this  journey  over  the  cumbre  one  is  likely  to  descry 
specimens  of  the  great  condi)r,  offener  to  lie  seen  in  Chile  than 
in  the  countries  nearer  the  (Miualor.  In  the  many  days  1 
have  spent  aliove  15,000  feet  in  Piiii  and  I'.olivia,  not  one 
appeared  witliin  the  range  of  my  vision.      In  the  iiionntainons 


206  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

regions  of  Chile,  the  birds  are  so  numerous  as  to  be  a  pest, 
attacking  pigs,  sheep,  children,  and  rarely  a  grown  man ; 
hence  a  reward  for  condors  dead  or  alive  has  been  offered 
by  the  Government.  From  the  top  of  the  pass  down  to  Las 
Cuevas  near  the  tunnel  entrance  it  was  said  to  be  a  swift 
slide  at  breakneck  speed.  The  thankfulness  with  which  the 
tourist  descended  from  the  coach  to  enter  the  prosaic  train 
may  well  be  imagined.  The  sturdy  pedestrian  was  the  one 
who  in  safety  and  tranquillity  might  truly  enjoy  the  mag- 
nificent visions,  while  others  in  terror  had  fleeting  glimpses 
of  the  splendid  panorama.  One  should  not,  however,  even 
with  a  good  revolver,  in  these  days  venture  alone  upoii  the 
traverse,  unless  thoroughly  seasoned  to  greater  heights;  for 
though  the  brigands  who  once  haunted  this  region  have  prob- 
ably departed  to  more  frequented  scenes,  the  danger  of  an 
attack  of  mountain  sickness  or  of  a  sudden  storm,  especially  to- 
wards the  beginning  of  winter,  should  deter  most  persons  from 
the  excursion  except  with  suitable  companions  and  equipment. 
It  should  be  noted  that  high  winds  frequently  prevail  in  these 
lofty  regions  after  nine  or  ten  in  the  morning,  strong  enough 
at  times  to  hurl  horse  and  rider  from  the  track  to  the  depths 
below;  this  fact  accounts  for  the  unearthly  hour  at  which 
the  start  was  formerly  made  for  the  ride  over  the  cumhre. 
Stone  huts  called  casaclias,  anciently  built  as  refuges  from 
storm,  are  scattered  along  the  road,  though  now  apt  to  be 
snow-filled  and  useless. 

Below  Puente  del  Inca,  the  region  seems  like  the  interior 
of  an  extinct  volcano,  with  variously  tinted  volcanic  rocks. 
Dotting  the  slope  of  a  jagged  mountain,  some  odd  small 
black  pinnacles,  called  penitent es,  are  supposed  to  resemble 
toiling  pilgrims,  and  the  perpendicular  cliffs  above  suggest 
a  cathedral.  On  other  slopes  are  nieves  penitent  es,  ice 
pinnacles,  curiously  formed  by  the  action  of  sun  and  wind, 
these  the  original  penitentes,  as  the  pilgrims  were  garbed  in 
W'hite. 

Beyond  Punta  de  las  Vacas  is  a  point  on  the  left  where  the 
rock  strata  are  of  tints  especially  magnificent.  At  the  sta- 
tion Uspallata,  the  narrow  gorge  opens  into  a  little  plain  at 
right-angles,  where  river  and  railroad  both  turn  south.  The 
name  Uspallata  is  applied  to  the  whole  pass:  its  passage  by 


ACROSS  THE  ANDES  TO  MEXDOZA  207 

a  division  of  San  ^Martin's  army  with  cannon  was  a  riMiiark- 
able  military  exploit:  the  general  himself  with  th«  iarf2:cr 
force  crossed  to  the  north  of  Aconcagua  a  slijjliTly  hnver  but 
colder  pass  called  Los  Patos. 

Cacheuta.  Near  this  station,  40  kilometers  from  Mendoza, 
are  more  hot  baths,  on  the  left  of  the  railroad  descending, 
but  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river.  Here  is  a  surface  of 
about  3000  square  meters  Avhere  by  digging  to  a  depth  of 
2  or  3  feet  hot  water  will  gush  forth,  the  temperature 
varying  according  to  the  location,  the  hottest  water  near  the 
river,  112°,  the  lowest,  79°.  The  waters  are  valuable  to  suf- 
ferers from  rheumatism,  articular,  nuiscular,  and  visceral; 
less  so  for  neuralgic  pains,  which  may  return.  Women  are 
benefited  in  their  special  ails.  The  waters  strongly  stimulate 
the  nervous  system,  the  power  of  nutrition,  and  the  whole 
organic  system  including  the  heart  action  and  circulation, 
and  are  therefore  forbidden  to  persons  suffering  from  dis- 
eases of  the  heart  and  circulation,  some  of  whom  pay  for 
their  rashness  with  their  lives.  The  bath  establishment,  af- 
fording fair  accommodations,  a  dining-room  seating  250,  and 
a  billiard  room,  receives  a))out  20.000  guests  a  year.  Sum- 
mer visitors  are  the  most  numerous.  The  baths  include  a 
swimming  pool,  and  smaller  tanks  with  water  hot  or  cold,  and 
a  grotto  for  Russian  baths.  The  price  for  two  meals  daily 
and  bath  is  six  pesos,  or  second  class  4.50.  The  two  meals 
are  almiurzo  and  dinner,  morning  coffee  being  extra,  a  <iiri- 
ous  custom  first  observed  in  Chile  but  obtaining  largely  in 
Argentiiui.  The  Indian  name,  Cacheuta,  is  derived  from  the 
fact  lliat  hei-e  an  Indian  chief  l)earing,  with  attendants,  two 
skins  full  of  gold  was  met  by  Sj)aniar(ls  as  he  was  going  to 
ransom  the  Inca.  The  Indians  succeeded  in  deceiving  the 
Spaniards  and  concealing  the  gold.  The  secret  was  well  kepi 
until  a  poor  Indian,  befriended  by  a  missionary,  revealed  the 
hiding  place;  but  there  was  a  mistake  somewhere  as  all 
search  was  vain. 

At  length  the  mountains  are  left  behind,  probably  after 
dusk  has  fallen,  so  that  the  arrival  at  .1//  ndoza  is  in  the  «'arly 
evening.  The  tourist  who  is  making  a  hasty  trip  will  hurry 
jiiioss  llie  station  to  the  probably  wailing  train,  by  which 
he  will  arrive  in  Buenos  Aires  the  following  evening.     The 


208  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

more  leisurely,  and  the  tired  traveler  will  take  a  carriage  to 
the  Grand  Hotel  where  an  excellent  dinner  will  be  enjoyed 
and  comfortable  night  quarters  may  be  obtained.  In  looking 
about  the  town  and  visiting  one  of  the  great  bodegas,  a  day 
or  two  will  be  agreeably  spent. 

Mendoza  Hotels,  the  Grand,  the  Club,  the  Francia  and 
others.  At  the  Grand,  on  Plaza  San  Martin,  the  table  was 
unexpectedly  good;  the  dinner,  served  on  the  broad  veranda, 
from  seven  to  nine  on  a  balmy  summer  evening,  was  a  gen- 
uine ])leasure. 

Mendoza,  with  50,000  inhabitants,  the  largest  city  in  West 
Argentina,  has  a  remarkable  record.  Strange,  indeed,  that 
this  town  at  the  base  of  the  loftiest  of  the  Andes,  by  these 
separated  from  one  ocean,  and  by  650  miles  of  pampa  from 
the  other,  was  founded  nearly  fifty  years  before  the  first 
settlement  in  the  United  States  and  twenty  years  before  the 
city  of  Buenos  Aires  came  permanently  into  being.  If  we 
knew  or  reflected  more  on  the  bold  deeds  of  other  days  in 
other  countries,  we  might,  perchance,  have  more  respect 
for  others  and  less  assurance  of  our  own  great  superiority. 
May  2,  1561  (some  say  March  2,  1560),  a  city  was  founded 
by  Pedro  del  Castillo  in  a  fruitful  spot  watered  by  the  Men- 
doza River.  At  an  altitude  of  2500  feet,  in  the  longitude 
of  Portland,  Maine,  and  a  latitude  corresponding  to  that  of 
Charleston,  it  is  an  agreeable  place,  with  plazas,  wide,  pleas- 
ant streets,  and  attractive  buildings ;  but  all  seems  new. 
Two  cities  there  are,  the  living  and  the  dead ;  not  as  in  Cuzco, 
the  one  of  an  earlier  race,  built  over  and  around  by  invaders, 
but  an  old  city  of  the  sixteenth  century,  a  new  one  of  the  nine- 
teenth. Unless  aware  of  this  fact,  the  old  will  be  ignored,  the 
visitor  passing  on,  unaware  of  its  existence.  Some,  indeed, 
may  prefer  so  to  do,  but  others  will  desire  to  have  a  glimpse  of 
the  ruins:  for  the  city  of  1561,  300  years  later,  was  utterly 
destroyed  by  a  tremendous  earthquake.  The  catastrophe  was 
of  a  singular  character.  At  8.30  p.  m.,  March  20,  1861,  a 
subterranean  groan  was  heard.  On  the  instant,  before  there 
was  time  to  flee,  the  house  walls  crumbling  fell,  the  roofs  in 
the  middle,  so  that  the  people,  generally  in  their  houses, 
perished  to  the  number  of  10,000-15,000.  Some,  who  were 
promenading  in  the  streets  or  plaza,  were  killed  or  thrown 


ACROSS  THE  ANDES  TO  .AIEXDOZA  209 

to  the  ground ;  but  many  of  these  who  were  saved  engaged 
in  the  work  of  rescue :  too  few,  however,  to  do  effective  hibur, 
so  that  a  hirge  nuiu])er  wlio  had  not  been  killed  outright, 
confined  among  the  ruins,  perished  from  asphyxiation  and 
starvation.  From  lamps  and  fires  in  the  dwellings  and  the 
breaking  of  gas  pipes,  a  conflagration  followed,  rendering  the 
night  more  horrible.  Some  districts  next  day  were  flooded 
from  the  obstruction  of  the  canals ;  the  odor  of  dead  bodies 
became  insupportable,  as  the  survivors  ■were  too  few  to 
remove  them.  The  shocks  had  continued  until  nothing  was 
left  standing;  there  were  19  within  the  next  24  hours,  17  of 
which  were  violent;  14  more  the  next  day;  gradually  they 
diminished,  coming  to  an  end  in  May.  It  is  extraordinary 
that  the  strength  of  this  violent  convulsion  was  confined  to 
a  district  60  miles  long  and  6  wide,  extending  southeast  from 
the  Uspallata  Valley.  A  slight  jar  was  felt  at  Buenos  Aires, 
but  in  Chile  across  the  Andes  no  tremor  at  all.  Assistance, 
though  promptly  sent,  was  long  delayed  in  arrival,  as  at  that 
time  practically  no  railroads  existed  in  Argentina.  Succor 
first  came  from  the  neighl)oring  towns  of  San  Juan  and  San 
Luis,  then  from  Chile,  all  of  Argentina,  Paraguay,  Uruguay, 
Peru,  and  Europe;  by  which  the  survivors  w'ere  enabled  to 
rehabilitate  themselves. 

There  was  the  usual  talk  of  changing  the  location  of  the 
city  to  a  site  not  far  away  near  granite  hills,  indicating  a 
more  solid  substratum;  but  the  people  as  elsewhere  refused 
to  move,  rebuilding  close  by  in  the  lighter  Chilian  fashion, 
with  a  larger  use  of  wood,  and  employing  nuich  material 
taken  from  the  ruins.  Thus  these  have  to  some  extent  dis- 
appeared, but  it  is  worth  while  to  have  the  coachinau  drive 
you  over,  if  you  care  to  see  the  destruction  wrought. 

The  iirw  city  of  i\rendoza  has  recently  experienced  a 
rapid  gi-owth  and  great  prosperity.  Of  the  seven  plazas, 
most  important  are  the  San  ^lartin  on  wliich  is  the  (ii-aiid 
and  another  hotel,  also  the  handsome  building  of  the  Hank 
of  the  Province;  and  the  Plaza  Independencia,  larger  and 
finer,  around  which  are  already  erected  or  about  to  be 
built,  a  new  Government  Palace,  a  Legislative  Building,  and 
a  Hall  of  Justice.  Other  objects  of  more  or  le.ss  interest 
according   to   one's   taste,   ai-e   churches,   convents,   lil)raries, 


210  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

a  national  collctic,  a  kindergarten  of  the  very  latest  model, 
a  normal  and  an  agricultural  school,  factories  of  various 
industries,  several  Clubs  of  foreigners  here  resident,  hos- 
pitals, orphan  asylums,  and  a  fine  penitentiary.  There  are 
many  broad  streets,  the  chief  avenue  for  shopping  and  prom- 
enade, the  San  ]\Iartin,  being  100  feet  wide  with  four  rows 
of  fine  poplars.  The  streets,  clean  and  well  paved,  are  lined 
with  a  profusion  of  trees,  more  than  10,000;  so  many  as  to 
render  the  atmosphere  at  times  (it  is  said)  stifling  and  un- 
healthy. The  houses  are  mainly  of  one  story  and  none  are 
above  two,  out  of  consideration  for  the  earthquakes. 

A  comical  and  original  method  of  street  watering  may 
here  be  observed.  Considerable  streams  run  along  the  sides 
of  the  main  avenue,  if  not  elsewhere,  and  boys  with  buckets 
on  the  end  of  long  poles  dip  these  into  the  water  and  throw 
it  upon  the  driveway,  a  primitive  but  effective  method. 

On  the  west  of  the  city  an  immense  park  is  being  developed 
into  a  charming  resort  at  the  edge  of  the  Andean  foothills. 
The  handsome  bronze  gates  at  the  entrance,  costing  $25,000, 
were  imported  from  Europe.  Within  are  splendid  drive- 
ways lighted  by  electricity ;  beautiful  flower  beds ;  thousands 
of  trees  and  shrubs ;  an  interesting  zoological  garden ;  a  pretty 
botanical  garden ;  and  a  charming  lake  nearly  a  mile  long 
and  330  feet  wide,  arranged  with  boating  facilities,  beautified 
by  islands,  and  furnished  wdth  a  splendid  grand  stand  on  a 
sloping  shore  with  seating  accommodations  for  3000  people. 
Not  far  away  is  a  rond  point,  with  a  kiosk  as  a  band  stand. 
Already  a  delightful  resort  wliich  no  one  should  fail  to  visit, 
it  promises  to  be  a  truly  magnificent  pleasure  ground.  If 
there  is  one  to  compare  with  it  in  the  United  States  in  a  city 
of  twice  the  size,  it  has  not  come  to  my  attention. 

To  many  the  greatest  interest  of  IMendoza  will  be  in  the 
neighboring  vineyards  and  bodegas.  ]\Iany  fortunes,  large 
and  small,  have  been  made  in  viticulture  in  Argentina,  and 
this  region  east  of  the  Andean  foothills  is  wonderfully  well 
calculated  for  its  development.  Investments  in  this  business 
return  as  high  as  25  to  30  per  cent  profits.  One  hectare 
(21/4  acres)  of  land  will  bear  300  to  400  cwt.  of  grapes,  which 
sell  at  3  or  4  pesos  a  cwt.,  an  Argentine  peso  being  44  cents. 
An  economical  Italian  family  can  live  on  the  returns  from  a 


ACROSS  THE  ANDES  TO  :\IEXDOZA  211 

single  hectare.  Among  the  various  industries  of  the  province 
wine  production  is  the  most  important,  increasing  between 
1895  and  1908  from  the  value  of  9  to  44  million  jjcsos.  The 
largest  of  the  bodegas  or  wineries  is  that  of  Domingo  Tomha, 
whose  wines  have  received  at  European  Expositions  many 
gold  and  silver  medals.  This  great  estahlislimciit  at  Godoy 
Cruz,  a  pretty  town  half  an  hour  by  rail  from  Mendoza  or  a 
pleasant  drive,  may  be  visited  in  a  half  day.  Interesting  at 
any  time  it  is  especially  so  during  the  grape  season  which 
lasts  from  February  to  ^lay,  the  fruit  coming  in  first  from 
the  north  and  along  down  to  tlie  southern  limit  of  produc- 
tion. Senor  Tom])a  owns  several  large  vineyards,  3000 
acres,  and  purchases  the  entire  product  of  others.  The 
bodega,  established  by  his  brother  Antonio  (now  deceased) 
in  1886,  then  producing-  1000  hectolitres,  increased  to  a  pro- 
duction of  254,000  in  1909.  All  essentials  of  a  first  class 
establishment  are  here  found.  The  employees,  like  the  pro- 
prietor, are  mainly  of  Italian  birth.  It  is  an  immense  prop- 
erty with  many  ])uildings  of  various  kinds.  Rows  of  enor- 
mous casks  for  fermentation  and  deposit  contain  220  hecto- 
litres each,  others  are  smaller,  also  there  are  great  tanks  of 
brick.  The  large  two-wheeled  carts  for  transportation  are 
drawn  by  four  horses,  one  ahead  and  tliree  al)reast,  the  driver 
riding  one  of  the  three.  A  large  patio  contains  a  pretty 
garden  and  a  monument  to  the  founder  of  the  House.  The 
buildings  are  as  neat  as  possible  and  of  fine  workmanship. 
The  wine  is  excellent,  of  good  body,  but  not  designed  for 
export,  not  im])roving  with  age.  For  ordinary  tabU'  use 
there  is  none  better,  and  the  demand  for  it  in  Arirentina, 
in  spite  of  continually  enlarged  production,  is  always  greater 
than  the  supply. 

IMendoza  is  a  popular  winter  resort  for  many  Argentinians 
on  account  of  its  pieturesque  surroundings  and  generally 
cloudless  sky,  with  a  superb  view  of  snowelad  heights;  but 
most  Americans  would  consider  a  frequent  tem|)ei-ature  in 
the  forties  a  trifle  ehill  williout  a  (ire.  and  would  hie  .-luay 
to  warmer  climes. 

The  extensive  system  of  irrigation  carried  on  in  the  Prov- 
ince renders  it  highly  productive  of  alfalfa,  wheat,  and  eorn, 
as  well  as  grapes;  also  of  vegetables  rivaling  the  California 


212  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

giants,  onions  as  large  as  plates,  colossal  carrots  and  radisnes, 
at  some  seasons,  miishrootiis,  marvellous  in  size  and  flavor, 
all  these  largely  trans[)orted  to  liucnos  Aires.  As  an  at- 
tractive center  of  immigration  this  is  the  third  province  of 
the  Republic. 


CHAPTER  XXII 
ARGENTINA— ACROSS  THE  PLAINS  TO  BUENOS  AIRES 

The  great  country  of  Argentina,  tlie  largest  we  have  yet 
visited,  in  South  America  second  only  to  Brazil,  has  more 
than  five  times  the  area  of  France  and  above  one-third  that 
of  the  United  States.  Considerably  longer  than  the  latter 
country,  though  not  so  wide,  its  latitude  compares  with  that 
from  Key  West  to  Hudson  Bay,  a  distance  of  2200  miles;  its 
width  varies  from  200  to  1000  miles.  Its  great  length  from 
north  to  south  assures  wide  variety  in  climate,  aside  from 
changes  in  elevation,  of  which  there  is  not  much  after  get- 
ting away  from  the  Andes.  The  climate  range  is  from  Sicily 
or  hotter  to  Iceland,  less  than  in  corresponding  latitudes  in 
North  America. 

The  central  part  of  the  country  now  to  be  traversed  is 
the  great  pampa  section,  largely  a  region  of  cattle  raising, 
where  the  soil  is  from  'S  to  6  feet  thick;  farther  north  and 
east  in  the  Parana  basin,  where  wheat,  sugar,  and  many  other 
products  are  raised,  the  soil  is  from  30  to  100  feet  thick.  In 
Patagonia  at  the  south  the  plains  are  of  sand  and  gravel, 
requiring  irrigation  except  for  a  few  small  fertile  valleys. 
A  ricli  country  is  Argentina,  now  forging  ahead  with  won- 
derful strides. 

The  journey  to  Buenos  Aires  is  made  from  Mendo/.a  in 
twenty-four  hours  by  the  express  trains,  chiefly  composed 
oF  sleeping  cars.  These  have  by  the  windows  at  one  side 
an  aisle,  from  which  staterooms  open  with  bcrtlis  one  above 
another  running  cross-wise  of  the  car.  Each  room  contains 
a  lavatory,  electric  lights  and  fan.  \W  day  there  is  a  long 
leather  covered  seat,  less  comfortable  than  those  in  our 
sleepers,  and  far  less  than  on  the  desjused  narrow  gauge  rail- 
way from  Oruro  to  Antofagasta.  A  dining  ear  is  attached 
to  the  train,  furnishing  fair  meals  at  reasonable  prices. 

213 


214  THE  SOUTH  AMEIUCAN  TOUK 

Leaving  Mendoza  by  daylight,  a  region  of  vineyards  with 
a  few  towns  may  be  seen  for  some  miles,  and  at  harvest  time 
men  and  women  by  thousands  engaged  in  picking  the  great 
chisters  of  grapes;  but  soon  an  arid  country  is  reached,  not 
like  the  West  Coast  deserts  farther  north,  })ut  resembling  our 
western  plains.  There  is  a  scanty  growth  of  scrub  and  an 
excessive  amount  of  dust,  which  in  great  profusion  creeps 
through  the  single  w'indows  to  the  discomfort  of  all  pas- 
sengers. Here  there  is  almost  no  rainfall,  and  one  need  not 
regret  passing  in  the  night.  Santa  Rosa,  a  town  fifty  miles 
from  Mendoza,  has  some  historic  importance  as  the  site  of 
two  battles  in  the  civil  wars  of  1874,  where  the  national 
forces,  defeated  in  October,  were  in  December  victorious  under 
Col.  Julio  A.  Roca. 

Near  the  small  station  Balde,  75  miles  farther,  is  a  noted 
artesian  Avell  2000  feet  deep,  sunk  in  this  arid  region  by  the 
National  Government  at  a  cost  of  150,000  pesos.  Boring  was 
begun  March  31,  1884,  with  a  tube  of  20  inches  diameter, 
decreasing  gradually  to  Sy^  inches.  Not  until  October  12, 
1887,  did  water  begin  to  gush,  at  last  in  great  quantity,  esti- 
mated by  some  at  8000  liters,  by  others  at  200,000  liters  an 
hour,  a  rather  wide  margin.  The  water  having  a  temper- 
ature of  105°  is  drinkable  and  of  great  value. 

A  little  beyond  is  the  town  of  San  Luis  (population 
15,000)  founded  in  1597  by  the  Governor  of  Chile.  From 
raising  alfalfa,  land  has  increased  in  value  ten  fold,  being 
now  worth  $5  or  $6  an  acre.  Cattle  raising  is  a  special  indus- 
try of  the  province,  also  the  sale  of  green  onyx,  beds  of  which 
lie  to  the  north. 

Villa  Mercedes,  a  town  of  about  the  same  size,  is  an  im- 
portant railway  junction.  One  might  here  take  a  train  by 
way  of  Villa  Maria  to  Cordoba,  if  desirous  of  visiting  that 
historic  city.  From  here  to  Buenos  Aires  is  a  region  of 
rainfall  and  of  wonderful  fertility,  the  great  cattle  ranches, 
formerly  covering  the  Avhole  country,  being  to  some  extent 
superseded  by  the  cultivation  of  the  soil;  wiieat,  linseed,  and 
corn  are  produced  in  immense  quantities.  It  may  be  noted 
in  passing  that  Argentina  is  the  greatest  exporter  (not  pro- 
ducer) of  cattle  and  of  cereals  of  any  country  in  the  world. 
At  many  stations  there  is  but  a  house  or  two,  an  adobe  hut 


ACROSS  THE  PLAINS  TO  BUENOS  AIRES      215 

occupied  by  an  Itjiliaii  or  by  a  gaucJio,  a  cowboy  of  mixed 
race,  Spanish  and  Indian.  Yet  in  ths  season  6000  tons  of 
wheat  may  be  seen  at  one  of  these  stations,  representing 
great  wealth.  The  freight  cars,  weighing  121/.  tons,  will 
carry  a  load  of  40  tons,  this  being  a  broad  gauge  road  with 
straight  and  almost  level  track,  inclining  slightly  to  tlie  sea. 
The  longest  straight  in  the  world  is  here  found,  175  miles  in 
direct  line,  and,  but  for  one  S  curve,  206  miles.  Bronzed 
cattlemen  may  be  seen  at  the  stations,  and  along  the  way 
thousands  of  splendid  cattle;  then  a  sea  of  cultivated  limit- 
less plain,  interesting  for  a  while,  but  j^resently  monotonous 
to  many. 

Between  Villa  IMercedes  and  Mackcnua,  40  miles,  is  a  very 
rich  zone  containing  many  elegant  dwellings  of  motlern  style 
with  city  comforts,  amid  gardens  and  orchards,  fields  of  vege- 
tables and  cereals. 

Rufino,  another  railroad  center,  is  a  station  of  hurry  and 
bustle.  A  wonderful  change  has  taken  place  in  this  region 
in  the  last  25  years,  from  a  lonely  exi)anse  with  a  rare  dwell- 
ing and  a  few  native  cattle  to  villages,  splendid  herds,  and 
grain  fields  whose  products  always  outrun  the  provision  of 
sheds  and  storehouses.  Near  the  station  Vcdia,  the  end  of 
the  straight  from  IMackenna,  is  the  noted  cstancia  or  raneh  of 
Senor  Benito  Villanueva  of  35,000  acres,  which  contained 
some  years  ago  14,000  Shorthorn  cattle,  besides  Lincoln  and 
Shropshire  sheep,  and  1200  horses  of  Clydesdale,  SulTolk,  and 
Hackney.  A  station  on  a  branch  line  is  called  Gen.  Arenales 
after  the  owner  of  an  iminii-tant  establishment,  with  i-reamei-y 
and  cheese  factory  making  200  pounds  of  cheese  a  day. 

A  busy  town  is  Junin  on  the  site  of  a  fort  from  which 
forces  sallied  Dec.  10,  1876,  against  an  invasion  of  cattle- 
stealing  Indians.  The  latter  were  routed  and  the  eattle  saved. 
Here  are  railroad  workshops  employing  1000  men,  and  an 
electric  establishnuint  supplying  light  for  the  eity  and  power 
for  the  making  of  butter,  cream,  and  ice.  Land  here  is  worth 
more  than  ^1.00  a  s(piare  foot. 

Fifteen  kilometers  from  the  town  of  Chacalniro  is  the 
estancia  San  Oregorio  esi)ccially  devoted  to  raising  Hereford 
and  Durham  bulls,  Lincoln  sheep.  Hackney,  Morgan,  anil 
Clydesdale   horses,   collie    dogs,    terriers,   and    fowls    of    the 


21G  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

Wyandotte,  Plymouth  Rock,  Brahma,  and  other  breeds. 
Seven  thousand  doUars  was  paid  by  the  owner  for  a  single 
bull. 

Near  Mercedes,  a  city  of  15,000,  is  an  estancia  of  40,000 
acres.  This  in  addition  to  other  blooded  stock  has  many 
race  horses,  now  used  for  breeding,  which  formerly  won  fame 
in  Europe.     For  one  of  these  the  owner  paid  $150,000. 

The  station  Open  Door  is  so  called  from  a  remarkable  gov- 
ernmental establishment  for  healing  the  mentally  diseased 
by  the  outdoor  system,  work  in  the  fields. 

At  Miiniz,  20  miles  from  Buenos  Aires,  there  is  a  Campo 
de  Mayo,  a  field  for  military  exercises,  where  reviews  fre- 
quently occur  attracting  many  spectators.  Close  by  is  a 
famous  estancia,  that  of  Norberto  Quirno,  4200  acres,  fenced 
with  wire,  divided  into  18  enclosures.  Besides  the  pure 
blooded  cattle,  acres  of  the  finest  fruit,  and  an  elegant  resi- 
dence, there  is  a  dove-cote,  supplying  40  to  50  pairs  of  pigeons 
daily. 

The  town,  Hurlingham,  15  miles  from  the  city,  almost  in 
the  suburbs,  is  much  frequented  by  those  athletically  in- 
clined. A  hippodrome  containing  apparatus  for  physical 
exercises  is  the  scene  of  frequent  hippie  and  athletic  reunions 
with  large  and  distinguished  crowds.  There  is  a  race  track 
of  2000  meters  for  horses,  grounds  for  tennis,  polo,  cricket, 
etc.,  with  pavilions  for  spectators,  restaurant,  garage,  stables, 
and  dog  kennels.  The  whole,  covering  22  squares,  belongs 
to  a  society  with  6000  members.  At  the  opening  of  the  season 
occurs  an  annual  fete  called  Gymkliana.  Among  other 
sports  is  a  Whistling  Race.  In  this,  after  500  yards,  men 
must  pause  before  a  lady  and  whistle  a  tune,  the  name  of 
which  she  hands  to  him  on  paper. 

In  the  real  suburbs  of  Buenos  Aires,  at  Villa  Devoto,  10 
miles  from  the  city  station,  is  a  rifle  range  established  by 
the  Italians,  The  field,  1000  meters  long  and  100  wide,  has  a 
shooting  gallery  550  meters  long.  Of  the  30  targets  24  are 
for  guns  at  from  300  to  500  meters,  and  six  for  revolvers 
at  10  meters.  English  societies  have  here  tennis  and  golf 
grounds.  Among  many  chalets  with  fine  gardens  is  one  be- 
longing to  John  A.  Hall  containing  about  1500  varieties  of 
orchids.     Of  two  asylums  in  the  place,  one  called  Umberto 


ACROSS  THE  PLAINS  TO  BUENOS  AIRES       217 

Primo,  was  the  gift  of  the  philanthropist  Antonio  Devoto, 
of  which  the  cornerstone  was  hiid  February,  11)04,  l)y  Prince 
Lnigi  tie  Savoia,  Duke  of  the  Abruzzi.  From  tliis  suburb  a 
tramway  conducts  to  the  city,  passing  on  the  way- a  Dispen- 
sary for  the  Tuberculous,  and  the  National  School  of  Agri- 
culture and  Veterinary,  which  was  inaugurated  Septemljcr, 
1904.  Continuing'  by  rail,  one  has  on  the  left  a  glimpse  of 
the  river,  and  on  both  sides,  of  the  Palermo  Park,  before 
reaching  the  station  Retiro,  a  short  distance  from  the  center 
of  Buenos  Aires. 

This  wonderful  city,  the  Meti'opolis  of  South  America,  which  in 
the  last  half  century  has  grown  at  a  rate  exceeded  by  few  in  the 
United  States,  was  iiounded  as  early  as  1535  by  Pedro  de  Mendoza; 
but  being-  twice  destroyed  or  abandoned  on  account  of  troubles  with 
the  Indians,  its  pennanent  settlement  dates  from  1580.  For  this 
the  honor  belongs  to  Juan  de  Garay,  Acting  Governor  of  the  Prov- 
ince of  which  Asuncion  was  the  capital.  The  latter  city  had 
been  founded  in  153G  by  Juan  de  Ayolas,  sent  thither  to  discover  a 
way  tlii'ough  to  the  rich  country  of  Peru.  This  colony,  more  fortu- 
nate than  Buenos  Aires,  endured,  and  for  many  years  Asuncion 
was  the  chief  city  of  this  part  of  South  America.  Several  other 
settlements  were  made  in  the  present  Argentine  country  before  the 
permanent  establishment  of  Buenos  Aires:  Santiago  de  Estero  in 
1553;  and  within  ten  years  thereafter,  Mendoza,  San  Juan,  and 
Tucuman. 

The  name,  Buenos  Aires,  dales  from  15;{5  when  Pedro  de  "Men- 
doza, January  G,  inaugui'ated  the  city  of  Santa  Maria  de  Buenos 
Aires,  in  recognition  of  the  sailors'  devotion  to  Nuestra  Senora  del 
Buen  Aire,  their  especial  patroness  at  Cadiz;  tradition  also  has  it 
that  on  disembarking  here  one  said  to  another.  "Que  buenos  aires 
son  los  de  este  suelo!"  ''What  good  airs  are  there  on  this  land!" 
The  town  founded  February  2,  1535,  Avas  i)racli('ally  destroyed  by 
Indians  and  abandoned  in  1541.  In  15S0  Garay  with  sixty-three 
colonists,  provisions,  tools,  etc.,  coming  from  Asuncion,  on  dis- 
embarking Sunday,  June  11,  15S0,  jiroceeded  to  an  elevated  spot, 
where  now  is  Parque  Lezama.  There  he  pmnounced  in  Spanish  the 
words,  "City  of  the  Trinity  and  Port  of  Santa  Maria  of  Buenos 
Aires,  I  baptize  thee  in  the  name  of  the  Father,  Son,  and  Holy 
Ghost."  All,  saying  Amen,  then  knelt  to  ask  a  blessing  on  the  city 
to  be  founded.  Proceeding  imrth  to  an  oi)en  space  on  the  wooded 
shore  they  fixed  upon  the  ])resent  Plaza  de  Mayo  as  the  center  of 
the  city  and  placed  the  lirst  stone  at  the  corner  of  Hivadavia  and 


218  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

San  Mint  ill.  The  now  city  was  arranged  in  sixteen  squares  from 
north  to  soutli  aloiij;-  the  river  front,  and  in  nine  squares  east  to 
west,  with  farms  and  j^aidens  beyond.  While  the  general  trend  of 
the  river  and  the  shore  on  this  side  is  northwest  to  southeast,  the  front 
just  here  is  almost  due  north  and  south,  the  Avenida  de  Mayo,  at 
right  angles,  therefore  running  east  and  west. 

The  growth  of  the  city  was  slow,  being  much  hampered  by  strange 
regulations  of  the  Mother  Country.  No  commerce  was  permitted, 
either  imports  or  exports,  hence  smuggling  became  popular.  While 
the  Viceroy  at  Lima  was  ruler  of  the  entire  country,  his  practical 
authority  was  here  small,  the  Audiencia  in  Charcas  (now  Sucre), 
Bolivia,  being  in  charge  of  the  country  east  of  the  Andes.  Subordi- 
nate to  this  were  the  Roj^il  Governors  of  the  Provinces,  always  Span- 
ish, while  the  cities  w-ere  ruled  by  Cabildos  of  from  six  to  twelve 
members  who  were  natives  or  Creoles.  These  serving  for  life  had 
charge  both  of  judicial  and  administrative  matters.  The  troubles 
with  the  Indians,  and  with  the  Portuguese  who  had  settlements  on 
the  opposite  bank  may  be  passed  over,  but  those  with  the  British 
should  be  mentioned.  At  last,  after  about  two  hundred  years, 
Buenos  Aires  in  1776  had  a  Viceroy  of  her  own  and  more  liberal 
government ;  unfortunately  too  late  to  undo  the  evil  which  had 
been  wrought,  although  trade  now  flourished  and  the  population 
soon  doubled.  In  June,  1806,  a  squadron  under  Admiral  Popham, 
and  General  Bei'esford  Avith  fifteen  hundred  men  landed  below  Buenos 
Aires  then  a  city  of  about  40,000.  The  Viceroy  fled  and  June  27 
the  British  occupied  the  city.  A  French  officer,  Liniers,  in  Spanish 
employ,  procuring  one  thousand  regular  troops  and  some  cannon 
in  Montevideo,  approached  the  city  and  was  joined  at  his  camp  by 
many.  The  British  on  the  advance  of  the  army  of  Liniers,  August 
12,  after  hard  street  fighting,  finally  surrendered ;  the  British  flags 
then  cai^tured  are  still  preserved  in  Buenos  Aires  as  trophies. 
Four  months  later  the  British  again  came  and  with  four  thousand 
troops  captured  Montevideo.  General  Whitelock  approaching 
Buenos  Aires  put  to  flight  the  army  of  Liniers  which  had  come  out 
to  meet  him ;  but  on  entering  the  city,  July  5,  stubborn  street  fighting 
ensued,  and  after  forcing  their  way  to  the  barricaded  Plaza  and 
losing  in  two  days  one-quarter  of  their  men,  the  British  agreed  to 
withdraw   and   to   evacuate   Montevideo  within   two   months. 

This  experience  inspired  in  the  Argentines  a  feeling  of  self-re- 
liance. Accordingly  when  Napoleon,  after  he  had  overrun  the  Span- 
ish peninsula,  demanded.  May  22,  1810,  the  resignation  of  the  new 
Viceroy  Cisneros,  who  had  taken  office  in  1809,  an  armed  assembly 
came  together  in  the  Plaza  and  proclaimed  the  Cabildo  supreme  in 
authority.     While  Acts  were  made  in  the  name  of  Ferdinand  VII, 


ACROSS  THE  PLAINS  TO  BUENOS  AIRES       219 

the  Spanish  ruler  of  Castile  and  Leon,  then  in  piiscin,  this  date  is 
regarded  as  that  uf  the  dawn  of  Independenee.  The  Cahildu  sent 
armies  in  various  direelions  and  hloody  coiidjats  ensued,  several  at 
fii-st  successful,  then  with  varying  results.  There  were  long 
troublous  times,  though  Buenos  Aires  never  again  fell  under  for- 
eign sway,  and  the  sentiment  of  independence  became  tirmly  estab- 
lished by  1812.  In  this  year  returned  from  Europe  the  great 
patriot,  San  Martin,  who,  through  the  labors  of  the  histonan, 
Bartolome  j\Iitre,  is  now  generally  recognized  as  the  savior  of  South 
American    lndei)endence. 

San  Martin,  born,  February  25,  177S,  of  a  Creole  mother  and  a 
Spanish  ollicer  father  in  a  small  mission  town  of  the  Jesuits  on  the 
Uruguay  River,  was  taken  to  Spain  at  the  age  of  eight  years,  edu- 
cated in  the  best  military  schools,  and  served  in  many  wars.  Hav- 
ing imbibed  liberal  ideas  he  returned  to  Buenos  Aires  in  March, 
1812,  and  later,  with  a  chosen  comj»any  of  the  best  youths,  pro- 
ceeded to  Mendoza,  where  for  three  years  he  was  forming  and  drill- 
ing an  army  for  the  purpose  of  invading  Chile.  This  he  did  in 
January,  1817,  the  battle  of  Chacabuco,  February  12,  giving  that 
country  its  indejjendence.  Going  to  Peru  with  his  army  in  1820,  he 
proceeded  himself  to  meet  Bolivar  in  Guayaquil.  When  the  latter 
rejected  the  cooperation  proffered,  San  Martin  gave  up  the  army 
which  he  had  organized  and  withdrew  to  Buenos  Aires,  suffering 
the  imjnitation  of  cowardice  without  a  word,  and  returning  to  Eu- 
roj)e  to  live  in  reduced  circumstances  until  his  death  at  Boulogne 
in  1850. 

Independence  was  formally  declared  by  a  Congress  in  Tucuman, 
July  }),  181().  From  1812  to  18(i2  civil  and  other  wars  were  fre- 
quent. July  9,  1825,  a  National  Constitution  was  adojiled,  and  in 
182G,  Rivadavia,  a  very  able  nuui,  became  the  first  President.  The 
gi'eatest  constructive  statesman  of  the  period,  he  undertook  to  re- 
form the  laws  and  administration,  created  the  University  of  Buenos 
Aires,  founded  hospitals,  etc.,  and  engaged  in  war  with  lirazil,  by 
which  Uruguay  became  indei>endent.  But  after  a  single  year  of 
oflice,  on  account  of  dissensions,  he  resigned.  In  1820,  following 
two  years  of  strife,  de  Rosas  became  President  and  in  18:?5  Hic- 
tator.  His  name  and  his  tyranny  are  regarded  with  detestation. 
Defeated  June  8,  1852,  by  General  Urquiza,  he  lied  to  tlie  British 
Legation  and  later  to  England. 

In  18511  Buenos  Aires  was  recognized  as  an  inde]iendent  state, 
but  in  1857  the  Poitenos  or  harbor  people,  as  the  residents  of  the 
city  are  called,  under  General  B.  Mitre  were  defeated  by  Cieneral 
Urrpiiza  and  again  joined  the  Confederation.  In  18(il  another  bat- 
tle occurred  under  the  same  generals  with  a  victoiy  for  Mitre,  who 


220  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

then  became  Pfesidont  of  (lie  eiiiiro  nation  and  by  .yrantine:  tbe 
Provinces  autonomy  succeeded  in  ci'catin.n'  better  feelinfj^.  In  1868 
Dr.  Sarmiento,  a  broad-minded  scbolar,  was  peacefully  elected  and 
did  much  to  promote  education  and  develop  the  nation's  resources. 
His  successor,  Dr.  Avellaneda,  had  a  more  troublous  term  of  otfice. 
General  Roea  who  followed,  1880,  gained  his  position  by  hard  fight- 
ing:. He  first  declared  the  city  the  Federal  District  of  the  nation, 
promoted  railway  extension,  and  put  down  dissensions.  After  Dr. 
Celman  had  misgoverned  for  four  years,  Carlos  Pellegrini  finished 
the  six  years'  tenn  in  good  fashion.  Dr.  Saenz  Peiia  followed  in 
18!)'2,  but  becoming  unpopular,  resigned;  and  the  Vice  President 
filled  out  his  administration.  Another  tenn  for  General  Roca  was 
succeeded  in  1904  by  that  of  Dr.  Quintana  and  after  his  death  Dr. 
Alcorta ;  Dr.  Roque  Saenz  Pefia,  who  took  office  in  1910,  was  followed 
in  1916  by  Hipolito  Irigoyen. 

Buenos  Aires,  the  Metropolis  of  South  America,  resembles 
Chicago  in  being  located  on  the  level  I'rontier  ot  a  great 
prairie,  and  on  the  border  of  a  large  body  of  fresh  water  rgt 
the  same  time  it  is  like  New  York  in  being  the  chief  seaport 
oT  a  yreal  nalloii.  The  so-cailect  .kio  de  la  Plata  or  La  Plata 
"Kiver  is  in  reality  more  of  an  estuary;  so  wdde  as  to  have 
rather  the  effect  of  a  bay  or  gulf.  Formed  by  the  union 
of  two  rivers,  the  Parana  and  the  Uruguay,  the  La  Plata 
basin  is  the  second  largest  in  the  world,  the  flow  of  the  river 
being  80  per  cent  greater  than  that  of  the  Mississippi.  And 
here  let  me  make  a  feeble  protest  against  the  usage,  general 
among  the  English,  and  now  copied  in  the  United  States,  of 
speaking  of  this  w^ater  as  the  River  Plate.  Was  there  ever 
an  uglier  name  in  sound  or  sense  ?  Were  there  any  difficulty 
in  saying  La  Plata  there  might  be  some  excuse.  True,  one 
is  liable  to  commit  a  tautology  by  saying  the  La  Plata  River, 
a  repetition  of  the  the  in  another  language,  but  some  sins  are 
worse,  and  one  to  my  mind  is  changing  Plata  to  Plate.  Plata 
means  silver.  Why  not  then  call  it  the  Silver  River,  if  one 
w^ould  translate,  or  else  say  the  Plata  River  ?  I,  at  least,  give 
notice  here  that  in  this  book  it  shall  be  properly  called.  The 
first  a  of  course  has  the  sound  of  ah. 

The  river  is  here  28  miles  wide,  so  that  one  does  not  see 
the  opposite  shore  except  from  a  height  such  as  the  Capitol 
dome.     It  is  125  mileS  lOng  more  or  less,  according  to  wlieT^ 
you  consider  the  ocean  line,  Buenos  Aires  being  called  about 


ACROSS  THE  PLAINS  TO  BUEXOS  AIRES      221 

]()()  miles  from  tlic  sea  and  9U  from  Montevideo.  The  city, 
bb  leet  above  sea  level,  lias  like  Clneago  {)lenly  of  room  to 
grow  and  has  improved  the  opportunity  to  extend  itself  until 
in  area  it  is  one  of  the  largest  cities  in  the  world,  three  times 
as  large  as  Berlin,  hut  smaller  than   London  or  New  York. 

Its   l)Opuhltion,    according''   to   tlw-    l:i^1    ■.ir-mimt^i    TIT^,    il'    almnt 

{T^iillion  and  a  lialf.  Thus  it  is  the  fourth  eity  in  the 
Western  Hemisphere  and  the  second  Latin  city  in  the  world. 
At  its  present  rate  of  gi'owth  it  will  soon  be  crowding  Paris; 
some  day,  perhaps,  it  may  become  the  first  in  population  of  the 
cities  founded  and  ruled  by  a  Latin  race. 


CHAPTER  XXIII 
BUENOS  AIRES 

Hotels.  Plaza,  A.  P.,  12  pesos  and  up;  Palace,  a  little  more 
moderate ;  Grand,  12.50  and  up ;  Royal,  8-12 ;  Majestic,  12  up ;  Metro- 
pole;  Splendid;  Caviezel,  8  up;  Phoenix,  9-15;  Albion. 

Taxis:  Automobiles,  50  ctvs.,  8  blocks,  10  ctvs.  eveiy  3  blocks 
more;  cabs,  40  ctvs.,  10  blocks,  10  ctvs.  evei*y  4  blocks  more. 

Postage:  Letters,  local  5  ctvs.;  United  States  and  Europe  12  ctvs. 

Money.     Argentine  peso,  44  cents;  dovible  the  Chilian  peso. 

Guide-book  to  the  Argentine  Republic  by  Albert  B.  Martinez, 
valuable;  in  Spanish,  French,  and  English. 

Chief  Points  of  Interest 

The  Plaza  and  the  Avenida  de  Mayo,  the  Government  Palace, 
Capitol,  Palace  of  Justice,  Plaza  San  Martin,  the  Museum  of  Art, 
Zoological  and  Botanical  Gardens,  Palermo  Park,  Hippodrome, 
Colon  Theater,  Parque  Lezama  and  National  Historical  Museum, 
Recoleta  Cemetery,   the  Docks,  Frigorificos,  Mercado  de  Frutos. 


Tourists  coming  from  ]\Iendoza  will  arrive  at  the  Retire 
Station.  Outside  are  many  cabs  and  taxis  to  convey  the  trav- 
eler and  small  luggage  to  his  hotel.  The  price  of  these  seems 
astonishingly  cheap  to  a  New  Yorker,  50  civs,  in  a  taxi  for  a 
ride  of  8  squares  (baggage  extra),  and  nearly  all  of  the  hotels 
are  within  this  distance.  From  the  docks  the  ride  may  be 
longer,  according  to  where  landing  is  made.  The  cab  fare  is 
still  less.  The  number  of  horses,  one  or  two,  makes  no  differ- 
ence. The  drivers  have  a  habit,  as  elsewhere,  especially  at  the 
station,  of  demanding  more  than  their  fee,  particularly  on 
Sunday ;  so  it  may  be  as  well  to  say  nothing,  take  the  first  car- 
riage offered  and  pay  what  is  due  with  a  small  tip  and  no  re- 
marks, and  something  additional  for  baggage.  Trunks  should 
be  arranged  for  with  an  agent  of  the  express  company, 
Expreso  Villalonga,  either  at  the  station,  or  after  reaching 

222 


BUENOS  AIRES  223 

your  hotel,  if  that  is  not  already  decided  upon.  The  hotel 
porter  will  attend  to  it  if  you  hand  liini  your  checks.  The 
tourist  may  find  it  still  more  convenient  to  arranpre  in  Santiaj2:o 
or  Valparaiso  with  the  Expreso  Villalonga  to  take  charge  of 
his  baggage  from  his  hotel  there  and  deliver  it  at  the  hotel  in 
Buenos  Aires  to  which  he  expects  to  go.  Tims  he  will 
have  no  bother  at  all  except  to  receive  his  check  at  the  station 
from  the  expressman  and  pay  what  is  due  for  overweight. 

Unlike  the  cities  previously  visited,  as  might  he  expected 
from  its  size,  a  wide  choice  of  accommodations  is  here  of- 
fered. Hotels  galore  and  lodging  houses  as  well  are  to  be 
found,  though  perhaps  not  a  room  at  the  desired  hostelry 
unless  engaged  in  advance:  not  always  even  then,  if  reports 
are  true  of  certain  establishments.  There  are  all  kinds  of 
prices  except  very  cheap,  for  this  is  quite  another  world  from 
the  West  Coast,  and  excej)t  as  to  carriages,  prices  compare 
with  those  of  New  York. 

'frie  tirst  choice  of  the  ultra  fashionable  and  Avealthy  is 
likely  to  be  the  Hotel  Plaza,  unless  a  new  one  promised  to 
be  still  finer  should  already  be  completed.  At  the  Plaza, 
barely  two  blocks  from  the  station,  a  room  may  l)e  had  on 
either  the  American  or  the  European  plan.  The  lowest  price 
for  the  latter  is  ten  pesos  (.ii4.40)  a  day — and  from  that  far 
up,  doubtless  30  or  40  pesos  or  more  for  suites  with  bath. 
Meals  are  in  proportion.  The  location  is  good,  on  the  hand- 
some Plaza  San  ^Martin,  and  very  near  the  river,  the  Amer- 
ican Legation  is  close  by — but  it  is  quite  a  distance,  11  blocks, 
from  the  Avenida  de  jNlayo,  the  principal  avenue,  and  many 
Avill  prefer  a  hotel  in  the  heart  of  the  city  on  tliis  handsome 
and  busy  thoroughfare,  or  one  within  a  few  blocks  of  it.  Tiie 
other  hotels  are  somewhat  lower  priced  and  by  many  regarded 
as  more  comfortable  and  agreeable.  The  Plaza,  under  the 
management  of  the  world  famed  Hitz  Carlton  people,  is 
naturally  the  grand  affair  that  one  would  ex|)ect,  the  i>omiM)us, 
unirormed  liritish  attendants  easily  leading  one  within  to 
fancy  himself  in  London. 

The  Palace  Hotel,  before  the  erection  of  the  IMaza,  regarded 
as  the  first  in  the  city,  is  a  large  edifice,  property  of  Nicolas 
I^Iihanovieh,  the  noted  steamboat  num.  This  tine  strueture, 
two  blocks  from  the  Plaza  dc  Mayo,  fronts  on  three  streets, 


224  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

the  25th  of  May,  Cangallo,  and  the  Paseo  de  Julio,  many  rooms 
thus  looking  upon  the  Paseo,  a  fine  boulevard  and  parkway, 
and  out  over  the  docks  to  the  river.  On  this  side  there  are 
five  stories,  with  an  observation  tower  at  the  corner  150  feet 
high  for  the  use  of  the  Mihauovich  Company,  and  containing 
a  powerful  electric  light.  The  offices  of  the  company  are  on 
the  ground  floor  of  the  building.  The  hotel  has  an  imposing 
entrance  with  a  monumental  stairway  (also  elevators)  lead- 
ing to  the  main  floor.  Here  is  a  hall  of  the  Louis  XIV  style, 
and  a  luxurious  dining-room  of  the  Empire  fashion  with 
white  and  gold  ceiling.  All  floors  are  heated  and  there  is  a 
telephone  in  every  room  or  suite,  conveniences  and  elegance 
of  all  kinds.  Above  there  is  a  roof  garden  (a  favorite  resort 
on  summer  evenings)  adorned  with  exotic  plants,  and  a  sum- 
mer dining-room  which  affords  charming  views. 

Other  hotels,  older  and  equally  popular,  are  the  Grand 
and  the  Royal,  comfortable,  even  luxurious,  much  patronized 
by  English-speaking  folk.  The  Grand,  built  in  1900,  on 
Florida  and  Rivadavia,  is  in  the  very  heart  of  the  city  and  by 
some  called  noisy ;  the  Royal  at  the  corner  of  Corrientes  and 
Esmeralda  is  a  few  blocks  distant.  At  the  former  the  price 
for  room  and  board  with  bath  privilege  is  from  12.50  pesos 
a  day;  the  Royal  is  less  expensive,  8-12  pesos  a  day. 

On  the  Avenida,  which  means  always  the  Avenida  de  Mayo, 
are  the  Hotels  Splendid,  Metropole,  Paris,  Majestic,  Ca- 
viezel's  New  Hotel,  all  of  the  first  rank  with  pension  prices 
from  10  or  12  pesos  up.  Also  on  the  Avenue  near  the  Plaza 
de  Mayo  is  the  Hotel  Nwevo,  said  when  built  to  have  been  the 
acme  of  elegance.  The  Phoenix,  San  Martin  780,  more  quiet 
and  less  pretentious  than  some  of  the  others,  is  an  excellent 
hotel,  much  patronized  by  English.  The  Savoy,  a  fine  new 
hotel  in  Avenida  Callao  corner  of  Cangallo,  is  one  of  the  best, 
comparing  with  first  class  establishments  in  Europe.  One 
preferring  lower  prices  will  find  good  board  and  rooms  at 
the  Pension-  Caviezel  for  from  7  to  9  or  more  pesos  daily 
(elevator),  an  excellent  location  on  the  Avenida,  Rivadavia 
and  Esmeralda  (painfully  neat,  some  one  said,  which  is 
hardly  a  fault),  a  Swiss  proprietor;  another  pension  of  the 
same  name  is  at  the  next  corner,  with  prices  a  little  higher. 
At  the  Hotel  Albion  on  the  Avenue  rooms  and  board  may  be 


A\  1,M1>A     I'l.     \1  \1  • 


BUENOS  AIRES  225 

obtained,  cheaper  but  less  attractive,  and  furnished  rooms 
elsewhere  at  2-4  pesos  a  day,  according  to  style  and  location. 

Comfortably  settled  in  a  good  hotel,  what  is  first  to  be 
done?  I  should  say,  after  morning  coffee  take  a  stroll  around 
the  center  of  the  city,  down  the  Avenue,  turning  to  tlic  left 
on  Florida  with  a  glance  at  the  shop  windows,  down  Cangallo 
to  Reconquista  and  the  Plaza  at  the  right.  If  time  is  short 
begin  at  once  sight-seeing  there,  the  center  of  the  old  and 
new  city,  a  historic  site  for  nearly  four  centuries.  Called 
by  Garay,  Plaza  Grande  or  Mayor,  containing  8  acres  or 
more,  it  is  now  Plaza  dc  Mayo.  The  center,  regarded  as  the 
Altar  of  the  Country,  has  been  occupied  by  a  modest  monu- 
ment, an  obelisk  called  the  Pyramid  of  ^fay,  comnu'inoi-at- 
ing  the  Revolution  of  1810.  For  this,  excavation  was  made 
in  April,  1811.  This  will  now  be  replaced  by  a  great 
and  worthy  monument  on  the  same  spot  to  the  same 
event,  voted  by  the  centenary  commission  to  the  com- 
peting artists,  Gaetano  ^loretti  and  Luis  Brizzolara. 
The  splendid  marble  monument,  liaving  a  base  150  feet 
square,  will  be  a  trifle  taller,  the  base  supporting  a 
colossal  obelisk  115  feet  high,  upon  which  will  stand  a 
group  of  statuary,  the  apotheosis  of  the  Argentine  flag:  a 
figure  representing  the  New  Nation  waving  the  sacred  ban- 
ner, preceded  by  Progress  crushing  down  Ignorance  and 
Pre.judice,  and  acclaimed  by  Revolution,  Justice,  and  the 
People.  Other  statues  and  reliefs  will  be  used  in  decoration. 
An  interesting  innovation  will  l)e  a  large  chaml)er  within  the 
monument  to  be  used  as  a  museum  and  to  contain  as  a  first 
relic  the  actual  Pyramid  of  ^lay,  the  first  memento  of  the 
glorious  dawn  of  lil)erty.  Tliis  monument  which  was  ex- 
pected to  be  in  position  in  U)l<i  had  not  then  appeared. 

Of  other  monuments  already  decorating  tlic  Plaza,  one 
erected  in  1906  faces  the  Avenue,  a  fine  group  of  marble  por- 
traying a  figure,  the  Cihj  uf  litK  iios  Air(S,  l)eing  crowned 
by  Progress;  a  child,  the  Future,  observing  the  act.  Towards 
the  other  end  of  the  Plaza,  the  east,  is  an  ('([uestrian  statue 
of  General  Manuel  Behjrano,  one  of  the  first  Council  of  (iov- 
ernment,  appointed  by  the  Corporation  of  the  City,  .May  25, 
1810;  lie  was  afterwards  a  commander  of  Argejitine  trooi)s, 


226  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

gaining  victories  at  Tucuinan  and  Salta,  in  1812  and  '13, 
later  sufferin<>:  defeat  in  Bolivia,  after  which  he  resigned  the 
command  to  San  Martin.  The  rest  of  the  Plaza  is  occupied 
by  gardens,  walks,  and  fountains.  Occasionally  there  is 
music. 

At  the  southwest  corner  of  the  Plaza  is  the  ancient  Cahildo 
where  met,  May  22,  1810,  on  the  upper  floor,  a  popular 
assembly  which  declared  the  authority  of  the  Viceroy  incom- 
patible with  public  tranquillity.  May  25  the  Cabildo  ap- 
pointed a  Junta  or  Council  of  Government  with  Don  Cornelio 
Saavedra  as  President.  The  Viceroy  having  already  with- 
drawn to  avoid  bloodshed,  the  Council  took  the  oath  the  same 
afternoon ;  Saavedra  addressed  the  people  from  a  balcony 
with  an  appeal  for  order  and  harmony.  Thus  the  revolution 
triumphed  without  bloodshed,  and  from  here  spread  to  other 
sections,  where  long  struggle  was  necessary ;  to  Argentina,  the 
success  in  all  the  countries  south  of  Ecuador  was  largely  due. 

The  most  imposing  structure  on  the  Plaza  is  the  Govern- 
ment Palace  on  the  east.  On  this  spot  in  1595  the  construc- 
tion of  a  fort  was  begun ;  but  it  was  1718-1720  before  a  con- 
siderable fortress  was  erected,  whose  w^alls  remained  till  1853. 
They  were  then  demolished  for  a  custom  house,  which  in 
1894  was  destroyed  to  make  room  for  the  present  palace. 
This  great  brick  edifice,  400  feet  long  and  250  deep,  with 
two  wings  of  slightly  difiPerent  form,  constructed  at  different 
periods,  contains  offices  of  the  President  of  the  Republic  and 
of  the  various  Ministers,  of  the  Interior,  of  Foreign  Relations 
and  Worship,  of  Finance,  of  Justice  and  Public  Instruction, 
of  Agriculture,  of  Public  Works  {Hacienda),  of  AVar  and 
Marine.  In  the  building  are  several  libraries,  the  most  im- 
portant that  of  the  Ministry  of  Foreign  Relations  (State 
Department),  where  in  iron  cases  are  the  treaties  with  foreign 
nations  since  1811,  some  of  these,  real  works  of  art,  superbly 
engrossed  on  parchment  with  enormous  wax  seals.  The  en- 
trance on  the  north  side  gives  access  to  two  large  and  elegant 
salons  where  receptions  and  banquets  are  given  by  the  Presi- 
dent, his  official  residence  occupying  this  end  of  the  building. 
The  banquet  salon,  richly  furnished  in  Louis  XV  style,  con- 
tains a  central  chandelier,  a  notable  work  of  art  made  in  the 
country  by  Azaretto.     There  is  also  a  fine  marble  figure  rep- 


BUENOS  AIRES  227 

resenting  the  Argentine  Republic,  and  there  are  busts  of  the 
various  Presidents.  Within  the  building  are  several  patios 
and  pleasant  reception  rooms.  Sentinels  al)Ound,  but  the 
doors  are  open  and  on  business  days  at  the  usual  hours  the 
building  is  accessible  to  the  public.  On  feast  days,  if  neces- 
sary, permits  to  enter  may  be  obtained  from  the  Superin- 
tendent of  the  Palace. 

On  the  north  side  of  the  Plaza,  coming  from  the  Palace, 
one  first  reaches  the  Chamber  of  Commerce,  in  1885  estab- 
lished in  its  present  edifice,  though  inaugurated  as  a  Balsa 
de  Comer cio  in  1854  with  118  members.  It  has  now  above 
4000,  and  is  a  very  important  establishment.  Operations  in 
1909  amounted  to  328  million  pesos.  Their  new  building  in 
the  Paseo  de  Julio  was  finished  in  1916.  The  same  year  tlie 
Clearing  House  account  for  banks  was  41/2  billion  pesos. 

In  the  same  block  at  the  corner  of  Reconquista  is  the 
Bank  of  the  Argentine  Nation,  the  most  powerful  institution 
in  the  Republic.  Founded  in  1902  with  a  debt  of  50  million 
pesos  in  bills  emitted  as  its  capital,  thanks  to  a  rigid  organic 
law,  excellent  administration,  and  the  honesty  of  its  directors, 
it  has  become  a  great  financial  power.  In  October,  1908,  the 
capital  was  increased  by  $17,800,000  gold.  As  a  Bank  of 
the  State,  no  dividends  are  made,  the  annual  profit  of  fifty 
per  cent  being  converted  into  gold  reserve  and  added  to  the 
capital.  January  1,  1910,  the  capital  was  113  million  pesos, 
the  reserve  39  millions  gold.  The  bank  in  1910  had  121 
branches  in  the  provinces  and  8  agencies,  mostly  in  tlieir  own 
buildings,  making  easy  the  commercial  transactions  for  cattle 
and  agi'iculture,  in  contrast  to  our  own  difficultit's.  due  to 
the  silly  prejudice  against  a  Central  Bank,  so  scrvicrablc  in 
all  other  countries.  It  performs  all  the  operations  of  other 
banks,  these  in  1909  amounting  to  645  million  pesos. 

At  the  west  end  of  the  noi-th  side  is  the  Cathtdrnl,  on  the 
spot  selected  by  Garay  for  the  church  in  1580,  when  a  sim|)le 
structure  with  mud  walls  and  tluitdied  roof  served  the  pur- 
pose. An  edifice  with  arches  in  the  present  form  w;is  brgnn 
in  1701,  but  the  f;i<:a(lt'  in  imitation  of  the  Madrh-in.-  in  I'aris 
was  l)uilt  in  the  tinu'  of  Rivadavia  by  tiie  architfct  Catrlin. 
The  great  semi-spherical  donu\  covered  on  tlio  outside  with 
blue  and  white  squares  in  the  Spanish  style,  is  a  contrast  to 


228  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

tlie  otlier  roofs.  The  interior  has  a  central  nave,  two  aisles 
and  a  transept,  well  proportioned  except  for  the  great  thick- 
ness of  the  pillars.  The  side  chapels  are  not  of  especial  im- 
portance save  the  third  on  the  right,  the  sepulcher  of  the 
great  San  Martin,  liberator  of  Chile  and  Peru,  a  patriot  whose 
purity  of  motive,  possibly  his  ability,  equaled  that  of  Wash- 
ington, though  he  was  far  less  happy  in  the  contemporary 
appreciation  of  his  services;  not  until  after  his  death  receiv- 
ing his  merited  honors.  The  octagonal  chapel  is  effectively 
lighted  from  a  small  dome  above.  Four  marble  plaques  bear 
the  names  Lima,  Chacabuco,  San  Lorenzo,  and  Maipu,  re- 
minding of  his  glorious  deeds.  In  the  center  a  bronze 
sarcophagus  containing  the  ashes  of  the  hero  has  several 
pediments  upon  a  broad  marble  base  which  bears  also  four 
marble  blocks.  On  three  of  these  stand  marble  statues,  in 
front,  that  of  Liberty,  at  the  sides.  Labor,  and  Commerce. 
The  block  in  the  rear  carries  laurels  and  palms  only,  with 
a  bas  relief  representing  the  battle  of  Maipu.  In  front  are 
the  arms  of  Argentina,  at  the  sides  those  of  Peru  and  Chile. 
On  the  right  stands  a  bust  of  the  great  patriot,  the  whole 
forming  a  worthy,  artistic,  and  most  impressive  monument. 

On  the  west  side  of  the  Plaza  at  the  corner  of  the  Avenida, 
with  entrance  on  the  latter,  is  the  Municipal  Palace  or  City 
Hall,  where  the  Executive  Department  of  the  City  Govern- 
ment has  been  located  since  1892,  the  Deliberative  Council 
meeting  at  Peru  272.  The  Intendente  or  Mayor  is  appointed 
for  two  years  by  the  President  with  the  approval  of  the 
Senate,  and  may  be  re-appointed.  The  Deliberative  Council 
of  22  is  also  named  by  the  President,  as  the  elections  formerly 
held  gave  poor  results.  On  the  other  side  of  the  Avenue  are 
the  Civil  Courts. 

The  Avenida  de  IMayo,  in  front  of  the  Capitol,  extends 
from  the  Plaza  de  INIayo  a  little  more  than  a  mile  to  the 
Plaza,  about  100  feet  wide,  paved  with  asphalt,  lined  with 
trees,  and  with  a  row  of  posts  for  electric  lights  in  the  center. 
Cut  through  the  block  between  Rivadavia,  originally  the  main 
street,  and  Victoria,  the  next  street  south,  at  a  cost  of  ten  mil- 
lion pesos,  it  was  opened  for  traffic  July  9,  1894.  It  is  consid- 
ered by  some  the  finest  street  on  tliis  hemisphere,  others  prefer 
the  Avenida  Rio  Brauco  in  Rio.  while  all  wdio  admire  sky- 


BUENOS  AIRES  229 

scrapers  will  insist  that  it  is  not  to  be  compared  to  Fifth  Ave- 
nue. Adjoining  the  City  Ilall,  is  seen  on  the  right  the  splen- 
did edifice  erected  by  Dr.  Jose  C.  Paz  for  La  Prcnsa.  As 
the  finest  newspaper  buikling  in  the  world  for  tiie  sole  use 
of  a  single  publication,  it  should  be  visited  by  every  traveler, 
though  only  certain  parts  are  open  for  inspection.  There 
are  five  sloi'ies  above  ground  and  two  below,  the  su))-l)as('inent 
containing  the  electric  fixtures  and  the  paper  storage  room. 
On  the  next  floor  is  the  machinery,  presses,  etc.,  with  a  room 
at  the  back  120  feet  long  and  25  deep  for  the  distribution 
of  papers.  On  the  ground  floor  on  the  Avenida  are  the 
bureaus  of  administration,  as  for  advertising,  etc.,  and  the 
museum;  while  fronting  on  Rivadavia  are  rooms  for  free 
consultation  with  physicians  and  lawyers.  One  flight  up,  a 
long  one,  for  ceilings  are  high,  but  there  is  a  good  elevator, 
are  the  handsome  rooms  of  the  chief  editors.  A  fine  salon 
with  luxurious  appointments,  furniture  upholstered  in 
leather,  sofas  and  armchairs,  and  a  heavy  carved  table,  is 
the  reception  room,  where  gentlemanly  attendants  in  uniform 
are  at  your  service, — a  contrast  indeed  to  the  dingy  liall- 
ways  where  people  are  kept,  by  often  pert  youtlis,  from 
entering  tlue  sacred  though  bare  and  noisy  quarters  of  the 
editorial  staff  of  some  of  our  great  and  wealthy  journals. 
On  the  other  side  of  the  large  i)atio  is  a  handsomely  deeorated 
hall  seating  500,  with  fui-niture  of  red  and  gol<l.  On  the 
next  floor  are  various  editorial  rooms,  on  the  fourth  luxurious 
apartments  for  the  entertainment  of  distinguished  guests 
from  abroad.  At  the  top  are  rooms  for  pliotogi-ajthy.  com- 
posing, etc.  On  the  turret  is  a  statue  holding  a  powerful 
electric  light,  the  rays  of  which  are  visible  to  a  great  dis- 
tance. The  editor  of  this  great  newspaper,  wliicli.  like  its 
building  in  some  i-espects,  for  instance,  in  liie  amount  of  its 
tclegi'aphic  despatches,  is  superior  to  any  in  the  I'nited 
States,  is  Dr.  Adolfo  E.  Davila,  who  has  held  the  otTliee  since 
1877.  To  him  the  paper  owes  a  large  share  of  its  |)rogress 
which  is  deemed  wortiiy  of  its  palatial  setting. 

In  the  same  block  is  one  of  the  fine  depai'lmcnt  stores  of 
Gath  &  (!haves,  wliich  company  occupies  several  other  large 
buildings  on  Florida,  one  of  the  best  in  tlie  city.  At  iV.V.\  is 
the  fine  building  of  the  Progreso  or  Progress  (Mub.    Opposite 


230  THE  SOrTII  A]\rERICAN  TOUR 

is  the  Diario  biiildinn^,  vvliicli  in  1911  had  just  Ix-fn  afflicted 
with  a  fire.  The  Diario  is  an  important  paper,  witli  morning 
and  afternoon  editions.  Tlie  Razon,  farther  along  on  the 
same  side,  is  a  leading  afternoon  paper.  Along  the  way  are 
many  hotels  and  other  business  structures.  Some  of  the 
buildings,  like  the  Prensa,  are  almost  covered  with  electric 
light  bulbs,  when  lighted  producing  a  brilliant  spectacle. 

At  the  upper  end  of  this  splendid  avenue,  beyond  a  large 
Plaza,  is  the  Capitol,  strongly  reminiscent  of  the  one  in 
Washington,  but  none  the  worse  for  that.  The  plans  were 
by  the  late  Victor  Meano ;  the  cost  was  $9,000,000.  It  may  be 
mentioned  in  passing  that  the  Plaza  in  front  was  constructed 
for  the  celebration  of  the  Centenary  in  the  short  space  of 
90  days;  four  solid  blocks  of  buildings  were  torn  down, 
gi'ound  was  filled  in,  leveled,  and  grassed,  walks  were  laid, 
trees,  shrubs,  and  flowers  planted,  fountains  with  colored 
waters,  obelisks,  candelabra,  and  statues  were  erected,  and  all 
done  at  a  cost  of  $5,000,000,  in  time  to  receive  their  guests 
in  1910.  And  ive  call  South  Americans  slow!  A  monument 
to  the  first  Argentine  Congress  has  been  added  and  a  statue 
of  Mariano  Moreno,  a  leader  in  the  Revolution  of  1810. 

The  central  facade  of  the  Capitol,  setting  a  trifle  back  from 
the  line  of  the  projecting  wings,  is  adorned  with  a  fine  portico 
and  approached  by  a  stately  staircase  having  on  each  side  an 
equestrian  statue.  The  central  dome  is  a  remarkable  work, 
the  pillars  supporting  it  covering  300  square  meters.  To 
sustain  the  weight  of  30,000  tons,  the  foundations  were  laid 
30  feet  deep,  and  an  inverted  dome  of  stone  was  fixed.  __No____ 
one  should  fail  to  visit  the  top  of  the  great  dome,  which  pro- 
vides  a  splendid  view  over  the  city  and  the  broad  rirer-;  or 
the  TMgnifrcenTIy~'Turnished  reception  halls  and  legislative — — 
cTiambers.  The  Senate  Chamber,  affanged'Tor'but  30  mem- 
"bers,  IS  a  small  room  though  provided  with  two  galleries.  The 
larger  Chamber  of  Deputies  has  three  rows  of  galleries,  the 
first  for  the  diplomatic  corps  with  an  especial  reservation  for 
ladies,  some  of  whom  come  to  hear  the  debates.  The  acoustics 
are  said  to  be  poor  and  the  heating  inadequate.  There  are 
conference  rooms,  a  library,  rooms  for  secretaries,  etc.  The 
Houses  regularly  meet  from  May  1  to  the  end  of  September, 
but   the   sessions   are   usually   prolonged   until   January   by 


THE    CAPITOL    PLAZA,    BrEXOS    AIRES 


PALEHMO    I'AllK 


BUENOS  AIRES  231 

Executive  Decree.  The  Deputies  meet  Monday,  Wednesday, 
and  Friday  at  three,  the  Senate  on  the  alternate  daVs.  The 
Chamber  of  Deputies,  seini-circuhir  in  form,  has  VIO  seats 
besides  eight  for  the  ^linisters,  here  admitted  to  their  delib- 
erations. There  is  a  platform  for  the  President  and  two 
secretaries.  Behind  the  Presidential  chair  is  a  portrait  of 
Valentin  Alsina. 

J^"lo\v  the  platform  is  a  table  for  stenographers,  two  of 
whom  write  a  report  of  the  proceedings,  published  the 
day  following.  ]\Iembers  speak  from  their  places  receiv- 
ing polite  attention,  especially  noticeable  in  comparison  with 
the  practice  in  Assemblies  of  older  nations.  There  is  Jio 
division  of  seats  for  political  parties,  nor  special  garb  for 
President  or  JNIinisters.  Each  Deputy  has  a  desk  with  writing 
material.  For  each  33,000  people,  and  for  an  additioiud  half 
as  many  more,  one  Deputy  is  elected  for  four  years,  receiving 
a  salary  of  18,000  pesos.  p]very  two  years  one  half  of  the 
House  is  renewed.  The  Senate  Chamber  also  has  seats  for 
the  JMinisters.  The  Vice  President,  according  to  the  Consti- 
tution, is  the  presiding  officer.  Strangers  of  distinction  de- 
siring 1.3  visit  the  sessions  of  Congress  may  obtain  from  the 
Secretary  cards  of  admission  to  the  galleries. 

The  characteristic  of  the  city  first  obvious  is  its  extreme 
neatness,  in  strong  contrast  to  our  chief  cities;  then  the  nar- 
row streets  of  the  business  section  and  the  absence  of  sky- 
scrapers, each  of  which  will  seem  to  Americans  generally  an 
evidence  of  backwardness  and  provincialism.  The  former 
certainly  is  a  great  defect,  inherited  from  coh)nial  liiiu-s, 
which  the  officials  of  recent  days  have  been  and  still  are 
endeavoring  to  remedy.  As  the  widening  of  all  the  streets 
at  once  was  obviously  impossible,  to  relieve  the  congestion 
of  traffic  and  to  beautify  the  city,  the  Avenida  de  ^layo  was 
constructed.  Two  diagonals,  to  be  cut  from  the  north-  and 
south-west  corners  of  liie  I'la/.a  de  Mayo  tlirough  the  busiest 
parts  of  the  city,  in  1916  liad  been  completed  for  one  block. 
Although  the  streets  in  the  center  are  only  33  feet  wide, 
since  the  buildings  have  mostly  but  two  or  three  stories, 
they  do  not  lack  air  and  light,  as  in  so  many  of  the  streets 
of  New  York;  the  height  of  all  buildings  being  limited 
according  to  the  width  of  the  street  on  wliieli  it  stands,  an 


232  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

excellent  and  necessary  rule.  All  of  these  narrow  central 
streets  are  one  way  tiioronp^lifares,  both  for  cars  and  other 
vehicles.  Natty  policemen  stand,  not  at  a  few,  but  at  dozens 
of  busy  corners,  regulating  traffic.  Delays  in  traffic  which 
were  formerly  common  seem  now  to  be  less  frequent  than 
in  previous  years.  It  may  be  mentioned  that  the  city  has, 
in  proportion  to  the  inhabitants,  twice  as  many  policemen 
as  New  York,  generally  courteous  and  obliging.  In  order 
to  help  a  little,  the  corners  of  many  buildings  and  side- 
walks have  been  chopped  off  in  accordance  with  a  law  pro- 
mulgated some  years  ago,  though  long  not  strictly  enforced. 
IMany  of  these  old  streets  will  be  widened  in  time,  as  new 
buildings  must  be  set  10  or  12  feet  farther  back,  a  temporary 
disfigurement,  ultimately  of  great  advantage.  West  of  the 
Capitol  all  streets  are  wider.  New  ones  must  have  a  breadth 
of  at  least  60  feet.  In  the  newer  sections  are  many  beautiful 
broad  avenues,  the  Santa  Fe  and  Alvear  in  some  respects 
surpassing  the  Avenida.  There  is  an  excellent  service  of 
electric  cars,  one  writer  says  the  best  on  this  hemisphere, 
already  supplemented  by  a  subway  which  has  been  opened 
from  the  Plaza  de  Mayo  to  Plaza  11  de  Setembro.  This  one 
completed,  others  will  be  promptly  begun ;  not  as  in  New 
York  ten  years  after  they  should  have  been  finished.  For  in 
Buenos  Aires,  packing  like  sardines  is  not  permitted,  as  will 
be  discovered,  perhaps  with  indignation,  when  a  car  marked 
completo  passes  without  a  pause,  and  one  has  to  wait  several 
minutes  for  a  second  or  a  third.  Within,  all  are  comfortable, 
the  seats,  each  for  two,  facing  the  front  with  an  aisle  between, 
where  no  one  is  allowed  to  stand ;  on  the  broad  rear  platform 
six  only  are  permitted.  With  carriages  so  cheap,  anyone  in 
a  hurry  can  easily  afford  to  patronize  them.  The  cars  with 
large  figures  in  front,  as  in  Chile,  a  fashion  which  might  well 
be  introduced  in  our  cities,  are  easily  distinguished ;  the  hotel 
porters  and  the  policemen  are  usually  able  to  tell  you  two 
or  three  numbers  of  the  several  ears  which  may  take  you  to 
your  destination,  and  the  points  at  which  these  are  to  be 
found.  Also  a  little  red  guide  book,  Guia  Peiiser,  purchas- 
able for  10  ccntavos,  will  give  all  necessary  information  as  to 
railwa3^s  and  electric  cars,  carriage  tariffs,  etc. 

An  afternoon  drive  may  be  taken  in  auto,  car,  or  carriage. 


BUENOS  AIRES  233 

Setting  out  in  good  season,  one  may  first  traverse  a  few 
streets  in  the  center  of  the  city,  the  fashional)h.^  Flori(hi  to 
Plaza  San  ]\Iartin,  returning  by  Recon(|uista  tn  tlie  Piaza  de 
Mayo,  cross  down  to  Parcjue  9th  of  July  below  the  govern- 
ment Palace,  then  go  by  Paseo  de  Julio  and  Avenue  Alvear 
to  Parque  3rd  of  February,  commonly  called  Palermo.  After 
a  drive  in  the  park  return  may  be  made  by  Santa  Fe  and 
Callao  to  the  Capitol  building  and  ui)per  end  of  the  Avenue, 
or  by  other  streets  past  the  Reeoleta,  the  Aguas  Corrientes, 
etc. 

The  calle  Florida,  distinguished  by  having  no  car  tracks,  is 
par  excellence  the  fashiona])le  promenade  of  the  city,  especially 
between  four  and  seven  p.  in.  when  it  is  closed  to  all  vehicles. 
Here  may  be  found  many  of  the  most  fashionable  shops, 
beginning  with  Gath  &  Chaves  extending  from  the  Avenue  to 
Rivadavia ;  though  to  ])e  accurate,  this  is  on  Peru  instead  of 
Florida,  the  old  Rivadavia  street  being  the  dividing  line 
where  the  names  change  and  the  numbering  each  way  begins, 
instead  of  the  Avenue  as  would  seem  more  natural.  Besides 
many  of  the  best  shops,  there  are  on  Florida  many  fine  resi- 
dences, among  these  one  between  B.  ]\Iitre  aiul  Cangallo  be- 
longing to  the  Guerrero  family;  one  on  the  left  in  the  Louis 
XV  style  between  Corrientes  and  Lavalle,  the  home  of  Juan 
Pena ;  opposite  is  that  of  Juan  Cobo.  Beyond  Lavalle  on  the 
right  is  the  magnificent  home  of  the  Jocliy  Club,  soon  to  be 
abandoned  for  a  larger  and  still  more  costly  establishment. 
This  Club,  noted  as  probably  the  richest  in  the  worhl,  with 
an  entrance  fee  of  £300,  nearly  .$1500,  yet  having  a  consider- 
able waiting  list,  receives  so  large  an  income  from  the  receipts 
at  the  races  that  it  hardly  knows  what  to  do  with  it.  Its  pres- 
ent edifice  has  a  noticea])le  facade,  a  fine  entrance  hall  and 
staircase,  on  the  first  landing  a  famous  Diana  sculptured  by 
Falguieres.  Corinthian  colunuis,  ornamentation  of  onyx, 
ivory,  and  azul  are  part  of  the  decoration.  A  fine  ban(|uet 
hall,  various  dining-rooms,  luxui-ioiis  di-awing  and  leading 
rooms,  rooms  for  cards,  billiards,  lencing,  baths,  etc.,  and  a 
few  to  which  ladies  are  admitted  with  a  memlter  for  afternoon 
tea,  unite  to  make  this  the  ecpial  of  any  Clubhouse  in  the 
world.  Beautiful  paintings  and  other  expensive  luxuries, 
like  tapestries  and  carving,  contribute  to  the  elegance  of  the 


234  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

establishment.  On  moving  from  their  present  quarters  to  the 
much  larger  and  more  splendid  structure  now  being  erected 
near  the  Plaza  San  jMartin,  the  Club  will  present  this  edifice 
to  the  Government  to  be  occupied  by  the  Department  of 
State. 

Beyond  on  the  same  side  between  Viamonte  and  Cordoba, 
a  large  building  with  arcades,  covered  by  a  glass  roof,  occu- 
pies the  entire  square.  This,  called  the  Bon  Marche,  is  used 
mainly  as  an  office  building  and  contains  some  Bureaus  of 
various  ]Ministries.  Formerly  the  National  ^Museum  and  the 
Academy  of  Fine  Arts  were  here  located,  but  the  Museum 
or  Gallery  now  occupies  a  fine  building  on  Plaza  San  Martin, 
with  the  Academy  adjoining.  The  Florida  leads  to  this  Plaza, 
one  of  the  handsomest  of  the  city,  surrounded  by  many  splen- 
did edifices,  adorned  with  large  trees,  flowers,  shrubbery ;  and 
at  the  upper  end  an  equestrian  Statue  of  San  Martin.  The 
Art  Museum  is  at  the  east  end  of  the  north  side ;  farther  west 
are  stately  residences,  as  also  on  the  south  side.  Here, 
between  Florida  and  ]\Iaipu  is  the  office  of  the  United  States 
Legation,  easily  distinguishable  by  the  United  States  Coat 
of  Arms  above  the  door,  should  the  flag  not  be  floating  from 
the  projecting  staff.  Happily  in  the  South  American  coun- 
tries visited,  the  legations  are  all  suitably  housed,  though  it 
is  said  that  at  least  one  Minister  of  ours  to  Argentina  paid 
more  for  his  house  rent  in  Buenos  Aires  than  his  entire  salary. 
It  is  obviously  not  a  position  to  be  sought  at  present  by  a 
man  with  only  his  talents  to  recommend  him.  Returning  by 
Reconquista  one  would  pass  many  fine  business  blocks,  includ- 
ing banks. 

Driving  past  the  Government  Palace  and  turning  down  to 
the  left,  we  come  to  the  Parque  9th  of  July  in  the  rear  of 
the  palace,  from  which  we  proceed  again  north  on  the  way 
to  Palermo.  Buenos  Aires  boasts  of  74  parks  and  plazas 
altogether,  with  an  extent  of  10  million  square  meters.  The 
9th  of  July  is  modeled  after  the  Champs  Elysees,  having  a 
broad  avenue  with  gardens  of  the  Renaissance  style  on  each 
side.  It  begins  at  the  south  Avith  a  half  circle  in  which  a 
statue,  probably  Rivadavia,  was  to  be  placed.  In  the  middle 
is  a  circle  with  an  artistic  fountain  by  the  French  sculptor 
Moreau,  and  at  the  north  end,  opposite  Cangallo,  is  a  pretty 


BUENOS  AIRES  235 

fountain  by  an  Argentine  artist,  Lola  ^lora.  Along  the  way 
are  caies,  restaurants,  and  concert  halls. 

Proceeding  along  the  Pasco  de  Julio,  with  its  line  of  shrubs 
and  tlowers,  one  may  continue  by  the  fine  Avenue  Alvtar 
through  the  most  fashionable  quarter  of  the  city.  The  Ave- 
nue, bordered  with  flowering  trees  and  palms,  is  lined  with 
I^alatial  mansions,  in  the  midst  of  beautiful  grounds  and 
gardens.  At  the  fashionable  hour  this  avenue  is  filled  with 
vehicles,  rented  victorias,  the  stately  carriages  of  the  resi- 
dents, and  many  automobiles,  which  although  numerous  have 
not  yet  seemed  to  lessen  the  nudtitude  of  carriages. 

Almost  too  soon  the  Park  is  reached,  its  formal  title,  the 
Zrd  of  February^  recalling  the  defeat  of  the  tyrant  Rosas  in 
1852  by  General  Urquiza  with  an  army  of  soldiers  from  Ar- 
gentina, Uruguay,  and  Brazil,  Rosas  then  fleeing  to  an  Eng- 
lish ship  and  to  permanent  exile,  lie  formerly  resided  on 
the  site  of  the  Round  Point.  This  park  covering  3,677,000 
square  meters  corresponds  to  Central  Park,  New  York,  or 
Hyde  Pai'k,  London,  though  it  is  more  at  one  side,  l)eing  on 
the  border  of  La  Plata  River.  The  many  beautiful,  shaded 
avenues  are,  on  the  dias  de  moda  or  days  of  fashion,  thronged 
with  carriages  before  or  after  dinner  according  to  the  season, 
when  thousands  of  people  may  be  seen  enjoying  the  spectacle 
as  well  as  the  fresh  air,  the  ladies  displaying  magniflcent 
toilets  for  the  pleasure  of  all  beholders. 

The  drive  should  be  continued  to  the  lake,  where  the 
charming  pagoda-like  Restaurant  of  the  Lake  will  be  admired. 
At  cei'tain  times  and  seasons,  it  is  ciuite  the  tiling  to  enjoy  lu-re 
at  the  price  of  three  pesos,  a  cup  of  afternoon  tea,  etc.,  to  the 
accompaniment  of  a  good  orchestra.  At  a  kiosk  on  the  round 
l)oint  of  the  lake.  La  Granja  Blanea  offers  for  refreshment 
sterilized  milk  and  other  dairy  products.  Not  far  distant 
is  the  Ixestaunnil  ralcrnto,  to  which  i)ei-sons  wishing  to  dine 
there  are  gratuitously  conveyed  from  tiie  center  of  the  city. 
Excellent  entertainment  Avith  good  orchestral  music  is  said 
to  be  provided  at  a  moilerate  i)riee  for  this  city. 

AVitliin  the  area  of  the  park  are  included  enclosures  for 
various  sports.  Close  to  the  lake  is  the  ground  of  the  Cricket 
Club  with  chiefly  English  mend)ers.  Enclosed  by  the  ave- 
nues Pampa,  Oinbu,  Alsina,  and  Palomar,  covering  a  space  of 


236  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

about  125  acres,  are  the  Golf  Links  of  the  Argentine  Club, 
Avitli  a  course  of  5300  yards.  A  Gymnastic  and  Fencing  Club 
possesses  a  fine  court  for  their  exercises,  where  much  fre- 
quented contests  are  often  held,  as  also  in  the  bicycle  track. 
The  northwest  end  of  the  Park  is  occupied  by  a  Rifle  Range, 
covering  10,000  square  meters.  An  imposing  facade  is  flanked 
by  two  towers  60  feet  high,  from  which  a  magnificent  pan- 
orama may  be  witnessed.  Three  large  gateways  with  glazed 
iron  doors  open  into  a  vestibule  80  feet  long,  from  which  two 
doorways  lead  to  the  shooting  galleries,  300  feet  long  and  20 
wide;  38  targets  all  double  and  movable  give  ample  oppor- 
tunity for  shooting,  eight  at  a  distance  of  150  feet  for  revolver 
practice,  twenty  at  1200,  and  ten  at  1600  feet,  for  rifle  shoot- 
ing. Shields  of  iron  and  banks  of  earth  give  protection 
against  poor  shots.  Admission  is  free  and  any  one  by  pay- 
ing for  the  cartridges  will  be  supplied  with  arms  and  allowed 
to  practice  to  his  heart's  content.  Contests  both  national 
and  international  are  frequently  organized. 

Near  the  rifle  range  is  the  great  hippodrome.  Beyond  it, 
outside  the  park,  is  a  field  of  30  acres  belonging  to  the  Argen- 
tine Sporting  Association.  This  contains  a  track  of  3500  feet 
for  trotting  races  with  sulkies,  and  one  of  3200  feet  for  ob- 
stacle races  with  hurdles,  fences,  and  ditches  of  w'ater.  The 
space  in  the  center  of  the  course  is  used  for  polo  and  football. 
Clubs  from  Uruguay  and  South  Africa  have  participated  in 
games  held  here  by  the  Argentine  Football  League. 

The  glimpse  now  gained  of  the  Argentine  Hippodrome  will 
incite  to  a  visit  on  one  of  the  gala  days,  Thursday  and  Sun- 
clay,  when  many  will  enjoy  a  display  superior  to  anything 
of  the  sort  previously  witnessed.  Nothing  in  the  United  States 
approaches  it.  While  some  Americans  asserted  that  this  was 
the  finest  Racing  Ground  in  the  world,  a  gentleman  of  Buenos 
Aires  stated  that  it  hardly  equaled  Longcliamps,  However, 
the  buildings  here  are  superior.  The  spectators  are  accom- 
modated in  a  row  of  great  white  stands,  that  for  the  especial 
use  of  the  members  of  the  Jockey  Club  and  their  families  being 
largely  of  white  marble  and  capped  with  a  graceful  roofing. 
Behind  the  upper  rows  of  seats  is  a  spacious  promenade  with 
tables  for  afternoon  tea,  and  farther  back  large  and  well  ap- 
pointed club  rooms. 


.i.\    (  I.I  I,    - 1  AM),   iiiri'<ii)H'iMr. 


CENTENNIAL,    KXI'U.SITION,    III  UAL   .HOCIKTV 


BUENOS  AIRES  237 

Worthy  of  attention  is  the  long  series  of  other  white  buihl- 
ings,  elaborate  and  si)aeions,  for  all  recjuired  purposes,  also 
the  space  enclosed  by  tlie  track:  not  the  usual  bare  fiehl  l)ut 
a  plat  decorated  with  flower  beds,  greenery,  and  rivulets 
crossed  by  little  white  bridges.  There  are  three  traeks  one 
inside  another,  the  outermost  a  mile  and  three  quarters  in 
lenyth.  The  grounds  outside  the  track  are  eml)i'llish('d  with 
flowers,  lawns,  and  trees,  the  eucalyptus,  pines,  and  i)aliiis; 
an  excellent  band  discourses  music;  while  a  throng  of  gaily 
dressed  people,  the  men  (at  least  the  Argentines)  in  fault- 
less attire,  the  ladies  in  elegant  Parisian  costumes  with  a  lib- 
eral display  of  jewelry,  contribute  to  the  brilliant  spet-tacle. 

The  season  is  a  long  one,  continuing  from  ^lareh  4  to 
December  30,  with  56  regular  functions.  The  races  are  of 
a  high  order  (tlie  riders  generally  Argentine),  the  most  im- 
portant being  for  the  Jockey  Club  Prize  and  the  Cup  of 
Honor  in  September,  the  National  Prize  and  the  Carlos  Pelle- 
grini in  October.  These  are  the  true  Society  events,  the 
dates  varying  slightly  with  the  year.  On  these  occasions  the 
throng  is  so  groat  that  movement  is  inipossi])k'.  In  1905 
the  winner  of  the  National  Prize  received  .$27,()()0  and  tlie 
sale  of  tickets  reached  $346,000.  In  the  year  3906,  the  betting 
at  two  2>>ei'0.s  a  ticket  was  equal  to  $20,000,000.  Persons  of 
distinction  or  with  influential  friends  nuiy  be  able  to  proi-ure 
an  invitation  to  the  official  stand.  For  seven  pesos,  tickets 
may  be  purchased  admitting  to  everything  except  that,  or  for 
two  pesos  to  the  old  stand  and  four  to  the  new. 

To  attend  the  races  one  may  go  by  train,  every  five  minutes, 
from  Retiro  Station,  by  tram  (15  cfrs.)  marked  Carn'res 
from  Parque  de  Julio,  by  taxi,  or  earriai^e  as  may  l)c  ar- 
ranged for  the  afternonii. 

An  object  in  the  Park  of  csix'cial  iiilcrest  to  Americans  is 
a  beautiful  bronze  statue  of  Wasliiuiiton,  erected  at  a  cost  of 
about  $15,000  by  Americans  resident  in  Buenos  Aires  and 
presented  to  the  Argentine  (iovernment  as  a  nicmoi-ial  of  the 
lOOth  annivcrsarv  of  tlicii'  indt'ixMulcncc. 


CHAPTER  XXIV 

BUENOS  AIRES— CONTINUED 

Leaving  Palermo  Park  by  the  broad  Ave.  Sarraiento,  one 
has  on  the  left  the  Zoological  Garden;  on  the  right,  a  feature 
of  Argentine  life  of  the  highest  importance,  the  buildings  and 
grounds  of  the  Rural  Society,  granted  by  the  Government  to 
the  Society  for  the  annual  agricultural  and  cattle  shows. 
Upon  grounds  which  cover  180,000  square  meters  are  fine  pa- 
vilions for  various  purposes ;  stables  accommodating  500  horses 
or  cattle,  park  room  for  736,  a  roofed  space  for  3500  sheep, 
an  enclosure  of  4500  square  meters  as  show  ground,  with  two 
stands  seating  2000  persons.  There  are  three  large  pavilions 
and  others  smaller  for  the  display  of  agricultural  machinery 
and  products,  and  an  immense  kiosk  for  the  products  of  the 
dairy.  The  exhibitions,  occurring  in  the  months  of  Sep- 
tember and  October,  concluding  v.-ith  horse  races,  are  a  social 
event.  In  order  to  appreciate  the  leading  position  in  such 
matters  held  by  Argentina,  one  must  attend  one  of  these  ex- 
positions, so  well  conducted  as  to  have  attained  a  degree  of 
perfection  unsurpassed  in  the  world  in  the  number  and  pure 
blood  of  animals  exhi])ited.  These  expositions,  organized  by 
Senor  G.  A.  de  Posadas  in  1858,  have  been  a  powerful  in- 
fluence in  the  improvement  of  stock  and  in  the  pride  taken  in 
blooded  animals.  They  were  the  starting  point  of  Argentine 
stock  breeding.  The  Sociedad  Rural  was  organized  in  1866. 
During  the  Presidency  of  Sarmiento  1868-74,  an  Agricul- 
tural Bureau  was  organized,  and  in  1898  the  Ministry  of 
Agriculture,  a  prime  necessity  in  view  of  the  staple  indus- 
tries of  the  country.  1905  was  the  record  year  for  the  ex- 
hibition of  cattle,  with  2389  head,  after  which  a  limit  was 
fixed  to  the  number  of  entries  in  each  class  by  one  exhibitor. 
The  variety  of  cattle  most  favored  is  the  Shorthorn,  forming 
88  per  cent,  9  per  cent  are  Herefords  and  there  are  some  Dur- 

238 


BUENOS  AIRES  239 

hams  and  other  bret^ds.  Of  the  sheep,  more  are  Lineolns, 
of  horses,  Clydesdales  and  Percherons,  with  some  ^lor^ran 
race  horses.  The  leading  nations  of  Europe  took  part  in 
the  International  Exposition,  June,  1910.  At  the  National 
Exhibition  in  September,  the  sales  amounted  to  over 
$7,000,000. 

A  separate  Fat  Stock  show  is  now  held,  with  hiirli  priced 
sales  and  with  frozen  meat  sent  to  England.  Congress  has 
devoted  100,000  pesos  annually  to  such  an  exhibit. 

The  fine  studs  of  the  country  contain  400  thorough-bred 
stallions  and  3000  brood  mares,  producing  1500  foals  yearly. 
There  are  66,500  thorough-bred  horses.  Ormonde,  pun-iiased 
for  £19,000,  was  sold  in  the  United  States  for  £23,000. 
Diamond  Jubilee  cost  30,000  guineas,  Flying  Fox  37,000. 
Cyllene,  bought  for  £30,000  was  sought  for  at  double  the 
price  to  be  returned.  The  sons  of  these  horses,  raised  in  tliis 
splendid  climate,  are  excellent  runners. 

In  the  agricultural  section  are  exhibited  cereals  and  other 
products;  from  the  north,  coffee,  cotton,  and  tobacco;  more 
important,  the  linseed,  wheat,  corn,  and  rape,  also  beans  and 
peas,  woods,  fruits,  avooIs,  ostrich  feathers,  grape  and  wine 
products,  potatoes,  sugar  cane,  yerba  mate ;  minerals, — marble, 
onyx,  petroleum,  silver ; — agricultural  machinery,  pumps  for 
watering  stock,  windmills,  engines,  threshing  machines, 
shearers,  locust  destroying  machines,  etc. 

At  the  Round  Point  of  this  Avenue  is  a  Statue  of  Domingo 
F.  Sarmicnto  (after  whom  the  avenue  is  named)  by  the 
sculptor  Rodin.  Unveiled  ^May  25,  1900,  it  represents  Sar- 
miento  advancing  over  the  laurels  which  have  fallen  at  his 
feet,  his  face  expressing  the  serenity,  decision,  and  energy, 
which  characterized  him. 

The  statue  rests  upon  a  l)lock  of  marb](%  on  the  face  of 
which  Apollo,  the  god  of  light  and  thought  advances,  dis- 
pelling shadows,  while  the  Python,  representing  Ignorance 
and  Foulness  slinks  back  in  death.  Three  other  statues  in  the^ 
Park  are.  one,  in  fiont  of  the  Administration  Building,  of  Dr. 
Carlos  G.  Burmeister,  who  was  many  years  director  of  the 
]\Iuseum  of  Natural  History,  another  of  Dr.  Eduardo  Costa, 
a  remarkable  jurist  who  rendered  great  services  to  the  State. 

On  the  Avenue  are  seen  two  bronze  lions,  reproductions 


240  ^Jiiio  SOUTH  American  tour 

of  those  at  the  Pahice  of  Luxcinboui-g  in  Paris.  They  have 
been  nuich  admired,  as  the  most  perfeet  representations  of 
tliese  animals  yet  produced. 

At  the  end  of  the  short  Ave.  Sarmiento  is  the  Plaza  Italia, 
adorned  with  a  striking  monument  by  the  sculptor  INIacagnani 
of  General  Giuseppe  Garibaldi,  the  gift  of  resident  Italians 
and  Argentines  uniting  in  a  sentiment  of  fraternal  admiration 
for  the  hero,  who  is  here  represented  on  horseback.  The 
monument,  inaugurated  June  2,  1904,  has  below  at  the  sides 
of  the  f)ediment  two  statues ;  one.  Victory,  who  many  times 
crowned  the  hero  with  laurels,  the  other,  Liberty,  for  which 
he  shed  his  blood.  Excellent  bas-reliefs  represent  episodes  ir 
Garibaldi's  life.  In  this  plaza  is  the  National  Agricultural 
Museum  for  propaganda  and  instruction.  With  six  sections 
of  exhibits  it  is  said  to  be  surpassed  by  few  similar  insti- 
tutions. 

In  the  angle  between  Sarmiento  and  Avenue  Las  Heras  is 
the  entrance  to  the  Zoological  Garden  and  between  the  latter 
and  Santa  Fe  an  entrance  to  the  Botanical  Garden,  this  not 
always  open,  the  principal  gateway  being  in  the  middle  of 
the  side  on  Santa  Fe,  No.  3951.  To  each  of  these  Gardens 
an  entire  half  day  should  if  possible  be  devoted  and  some 
persons  would  enjoy  a  longer  time  in  each.  Now  observing 
only  their  location,  we  return  to  the  city  in  time  for  dinner 
by  Ave.  Santa  Fe,  a  street  about  ten  miles  long,  extending 
from  Plaza  San  IMartin  out  to  the  suburb  Belgrano.  At  No. 
3795  adjoining  the  Botanical  Garden  is  the  National  Con- 
servaiory  of  Vaccination  (dependent  on  the  department  of 
Hygiene)  where  children  are  vaccinated  by  thousands  and 
from  which  vaccine  is  sent  to  all  parts  of  the  Republic  except 
the  Province  of  Buenos  Aires.  On  the  other  side  of  the 
Avenue,  on  the  corner  of  Uriarte,  is  an  Association  of  young 
society  ladies,  called  Las  Filomenas,  its  purpose  that  of  giv- 
ing to  poor  children  a  practical  education  b.y  teaching  them 
a  trade.  A  new  route  will  be  by  the  broad  Ave.  Callao  to 
Ave.  de  Mayo,  but  thus  will  be  missed  many  fine  residences 
on  Santa  Fe  which,  however,  will  keep  for  the  next  time. 

The  Botanical  Garden,  an  important  institution,  said  to  be 
uncqualed  in  the  world,  is  the  work  of  the  celebrated  Carlos 
Tliays,  its  organizer  and  former  director.  His  red  brick  resi- 
dence is  directly  in  front  of  the  main  gateway.    Just  within  the 


iHUAMLALi    oAi 


ZOOLOUICAL    llAUDKN,    UULSK    UK    ZEUU8 


BUENOS  AIRES  241 

entrance  is  a  plan  of  the  grounds,  extremely  useful  in  ena- 
bling one  to  visit  parts  of  especial  interest  or  to  make  a  sys- 
tematic tour  of  the  entire  garden.  In  this  limited  space  is 
found  a  collection  of  the  leading  characteristic  tiora  of  the 
whole  earth.  The  climate  lends  itself  remarkably  to  the  for- 
mation of  such  a  collection,  permitting  both  trujiical  growths 
and  those  of  the  cooler  parts  of  the  earth.  Here  are  hot 
houses,  a  fernery,  a  Louis  XV,  and  a  Roman  garden,  in- 
dustrial and  medicinal  plants,  fruit  trees,  ycrha  mate,  aquatic 
plants,  a  department  of  acclimatization,  Argentine  tiora,  and 
sections  devoted  to  Europe,  Asia,  Africa,  North,  South,  and 
Central  America,  Canadian  pines,  and  Sahara  palms,  a 
wonderful  variety  of  rich  colors  and  luxuriant  growth. 
Naturally  the  Argentine  collection  is  fullest,  practically  per- 
fect, exhibiting,  in  specimens  from  Tierra  del  Fuego  to 
Mendoza  and  the  Chaco,  a  good  portion  of  the  varieties  of 
the  globe.  A  flourishing  Victoria  Regia  is  in  the  little  lake 
of  the  garden  of  Louis  XV.  A  truly  delightful  afternoon 
will  be  spent  by  many,  and  another  will  be  passed  near  by. 
The  Zoological  Garden  may  be  entered  from  the  Plaza 
Italia,  fee  10  ctvs.,  or  at  two  other  points.  Coming  from  the 
Plaza  one's  attention  may  first  be  attracted  by  the  sight  of 
a  white  llama  all  saddled  and  bridled,  looking  in  the  summer, 
very  quaint  with  his  wool  clipped  oil".  (Perhaps  it  is  allowed 
to  grow  in  cold  weather.)  A  little  boy  or  girl  may  be  enjoy- 
ing a  ride  on  his  back.  The  animal  is  tame  but  must  be 
gently  handled.  The  Garden  is  a  captivating  place.  Among 
beautiful  lakes  and  trees  is  a  charming  array  of  artistic  and 
elegant  i)avilions  for  the  various  animals,  these  in  general 
constructed  in  the  style  of  architecture  of  the  country  from 
wiiich  the  residents  have .  come.  For  the  elephants  there 
is,  with  a  spacious  yard  for  exercise,  a  splendid  mansiitn,  where 
a  little  one  was  born  in  1906,  a  rare  occurrence  in  captivity. 
An  imposing  edifice  houses  a  large  variety  of  bears  including 
the  white  polai's;  an  Egyptian  temj)le  contains  gorillas  ^md 
chimpanzees,  an  Indian  palaee,  the  zebus,  in  coi-reet  style  of 
architecture  exhibiting  the  fantasy  of  the  raee.  Tlie  exten- 
sive palace  with  the  ferocious  animals,  lions,  liengal  tigers, 
panthers,  jaguars,  etc.,  is  of  espeeial  interest  at  feeding  time. 
An  immense  cage  contains  condors,  eagles,  and  other  large 


242  THE  SOUTH  amp:rican  tour 

birds,  wliile  sniallcr  ones  hold  oilier  varieties,  lovely  white 
parrots,  and  some  entirely  pink  with  curious  head  feathers, 
probably  macaws.  These,  with  the  beautiful  white  peacocks, 
are  especially  fascinating;  the  black  and  white  swans  are 
noticeable.  INIany  other  animals,  snakes,  etc.,  too  numerous 
to  mention,  are  also  on  exhibition.  In  attractive  restaurants 
a  large  dish  of  ice  cream  may  be  had  for  30  ctvs.,  and  various 
other  viands. 

Less  extensive  than  the  great  collection  in  the  Bronx,  the 
animals  are  more  magnificently  housed,  and  across  the  beauti- 
ful lakes  the  Garden  has  many  vistas  of  romantic  beauty. 

In  the  central  portion  of  the  city  are  many  attractions 
meriting  the  attention  of  the  tourist.  The  Museum  of  Fine 
Arts  on  Plaza  San  Martin,  open  from  10  to  5  except  ^londay, 
contains  a  collection  of  paintings,  chiefly  of  the  modern  French 
School,  This  Museum,  decreed  by  the  National  Government, 
July  16,  1895,  was  organized  by  Edward  Schiaffino  and  opened 
Dee.  25,  1896.  The  collection  has  been  formed  from  a  legacy 
by  Adrian  E.  Rossi  of  81  canvases,  donations  from  a  large 
number  of  private  individuals,  works  of  art  belonging  to  the 
State  previously  scattered  in  various  public  buildings,  and 
by  many  purchases.  It  includes  a  considerable  number  of 
pieces  of  sculpture.  Among  the  paintings  of  various  schools 
may  be  observed  the  familiar  names  of  Puvis  de  Chavanues, 
Meissonier,  Van  Ostade,  Luca  Giordano,  Corot,  and  dozens 
more.  The  collection  is  well  arranged  and  lighted,  and  a  full 
half  day  is  requisite  to  give  a  cursory  glance  at  the  fine  works 
of  art  here  assembled. 

A  number  of  private  galleries  in  the  city  afford  evidence  of 
refined  taste  and  of  the  desire  of  persons  of  great  wealth 
to  acquire  collections  of  artistic  worth.  To  visit  these  in  the 
homes  of  their  possessors,  persons  desiring  the  privilege 
should  endeavor  to  procure  a  card  of  introduction,  though 
in  some  cases  permission  may  be  gained  by  direct  ap- 
plication to  the  owners,  who  courteously  receive  strangers, 
whether  amateurs  or  artists.  The  gallery  of  the  estate  of 
Jose  Prudencio  de  Guerrico,  Corrientes,  537,  is  a  museum 
of  art  as  well  as  picture  gallery,  called  one  of  the  first  in 
South  America.  AVith  many  others  it  contains  Avorks  of 
Daubigny,   Corot,  Diaz,  Meissonier,   Greuze,  Rosa   Bonheur. 


BUENOS  AIRES  243 

The  collection  of  the  Messrs.  ^Moreno  at  Victoria,  1542,  is  un- 
usual in  containing  the  works  of  but  one  artist,  Dionisio 
Fierros.  At  Talcahuano  1138,  the  salon  of  Laurent  Pclle- 
rano  presents  paintings,  classical,  international,  and  Argen- 
tine. 40  of  Italian  artists,  18  ^^panish  including  Mu- 
rillo  and  Sorolla,  9  French  and  a  good  number  of  Argen- 
tine. In  the  salon  of  Dr.  Joseph  R.  Semprun,  Tucuman  757, 
is  a  collection  of  various  styles,  with  many  fine  Avorks  pur- 
chased in  Europe  since  1830.  The  gallery  of  Jean  Canter, 
B.  ]\Iitre  516,  contains  paintings,  sculpture,  pottery,  and  en- 
graving of  various  styles  and  periods.  The  gallery  at  Maipu 
929,  belonging  to  Piladeo  Soldaini,  open  on  Sundays  from 
one  to  three,  has  a  collection  especially  of  Italian  and  Spanish 
artists  with  more  than  50  different  signatures.  At  Paraguay, 
1327,  in  the  home  of  General  Garmendia  are  150  paintings 
including  canvases  of  rare  merit  by  unknown  and  by  famous 
artists,  and  portraits  of  members  of  the  family,  with  an  in- 
teresting museum  of  armor  of  the  fifteenth  and  sixteenth  cen- 
turies, fire  arms,  poniards,  and  daggers  of  various  periods, 
historic  swords  of  Gen.  San  Martin,  Rozas,  and  others,  and 
personal  relics  of  the  Paraguayan  war  in  which  the  General 
was  engaged. 

The  Museum  of  Natural  History  at  the  corner  of  Peru  and 
Alsina,  with  entrance  on  the  former,  is  of  great  value;  but  in 
1911  was  so  badly  housed  that  a  small  portion  only  of  its 
treasures  were  visible.  Decreed  by  the  Assembly,  May  27, 
1812,  and  actually  installed  after  an  ordinance  of  Kivadavia, 
Dec.  31,  1823,  little  was  accomplished  until  the  fall  of  the 
tyrant  Rozas.  At  length  the  post  of  Dii-ector  was  offered  to  a 
professor  of  the  German  University  of  Halle,  Charles  (iermain 
Conrad  Purnicister,  who,  by  a  ])revi()us  journey  to  Brazil 
and  Kio  de  la  I'lata,  had  greatly  advanced  seieiitilie  knowled^'e 
of  the  fauna  and  flora  of  these  regions.  \)v.  I'.mimisti  r, 
landing  in  Buenos  Aires  Septend)er,  18G1,  ileveloped  the 
institution  into  a  i-enowiied  seientilic  estabiisimient.  Tlie  re- 
markable paleo/.oologic  section  has  a.  world  wide  rej)Ulatiitn. 
Fossil  animals  of  the  antediluvian  epoch,  largely  deri\  eil  from 
the  Argentine  pampa,  were  reconstru<'le(l  by  the  scientist, 
who  wrote  many  works  embodying  the  result  of  painful  re- 
search in  reference  to  prehistoric  creatures.     After  30  years 


244  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

of  service  the  great  scholar  at  the  advanced  age  of  95,  re- 
solved to  retire,  but  anxious  for  the  continuance  of  his  work 
he  first  secured  the  appointment  of  Dr.  Charles  Berg,  pre- 
viously in  Montevideo.  To  Dr.  Burmeister,  who  believed 
that  the  Museum  was  for  the  benefit  of  science  and  not  to 
gratify  idle  curiosity,  is  due  the  ia.<it  that  the  Museum  is  so 
badly  housed;  as  when  a  new  edifice  was  proposed  he  said 
he  would  be  buried  there  rather  than  leave.  Many  improve- 
ments in  the  display  of  objects  were  made  by  Dr.  Berg, 
others  by  the  present  Director,  Dr.  Angel  Gallardo,  but  the 
collection  should  be  transferred  to  a  building  in  consonance 
with  its  merits.  The  present  edifice  is  an  ancient  cloister  of 
the  Jesuits  in  Avhich  the  University  was  installed  Nov.  3, 
1783.  The  greater  part  of  the  visible  exposition  is  up  one 
flight.  Of  especial  interest  are  the  enormous  skeletons  of 
pre-historic  animals.  The  IMuseum  has  five  sections,  includ- 
ing Zoolog}%  Paleontology,  Ethnolog}',  Botany,  and  one  of 
Geology  and  Mineralogy;  also  a  library'  of  more  than  10,000 
volumes,  chiefly  important  works  for  the  study  of  Natural 
History. 

No  one  should  fail  to  visit  the  National  Historical  Museum 
in  the  Parque  Lezama,  open  on  Thursdays  and  Sundays  from 
noon  to  four,  and  entered  from  calle  Defensa,  1600.  The 
six  rooms  and  a  gallery  are  so  crowded  with  relics  that  the 
Government  is  planning  the  construction  of  an  ediflce  more 
w^orthy  to  preserve  the  glorious  record  of  the  country's  his- 
tory. One  acquainted  with  this  history  has  far  greater  pleas- 
ure in  these  relics  of  the  past ;  but  a  glance  is  due  from 
every  traveler.  The  IMuseum  was  created  in  1890  as  a  mu- 
nicipal institution  by  Seiior  Adolfo  P.  Carranza,  with  191 
objects:  private  donations,  and  trophies  previously  preserved 
in  the  Government  Palace  and  the  Natural  History  IMuseum. 
In  1891,  it  became  national  in  character  and  since  Sept.  1897, 
it  has  been  in  its  present  locality.  In  1907,  it  contained 
4500  pieces,  not  all  on  exhibition  on  account  of  insufficient 
space.  At  the  left  of  the  entrance  are  the  offices,  at  the  right, 
the  salons.  The  library,  originating  with  a  gift  of  the  late 
Director,  Contains  1500  volumes  of  American  History  and 
IMS.  of  great  importance.  The  IMuseum  has  a  rich  collection 
of  numismatics,  4000  pieces,  including  rare  examples  of  medals 


BUENOS  AIRES  245 

eommemorating  the  epoch  of  Independence,  and  many  of 
other  periods.  In  the  first  sah)n  may  be  seen  on  the  left 
a  celebrated  plaque  of  silver  with  reliefs  in  <:old  sent  in  Au- 
gust, 1807,  by  the  Corporation  of  Oruro,  Bolivia,  to  Buenos 
Aires,  and  to  General  Liniers,  to  commemorate  the  retaking 
of  the  city.  Above  is  the  sword  of  the  British  General  Beres- 
ford,  surrendered  by  him  at  the  time  of  capture.  From  the 
plaque  is  suspended  a  shield  no  less  ffwnous,  called  Tarja  de 
Polusi,  of  gold  and  silver,  presented  by  the  ladies  of  that  city 
to  the  general  and  patriot,  Manuel  Belgrano;  and  with  this 
are  medals  in  memory  of  his  triumphs  at  Salta  and  Tucuman. 
In  this  and  other  rooms  are  two  royal  Spanish  standards,  one 
dating  from  1605;  portraits  of  Viceroys;  explorers,  as  Valdi- 
via,  IMendoza,  Ponce  de  Leon,  discoverer  of  Florida,  Pi/arro, 
and  others;  many  pictures  of  battles;  furniture,  dislu-s,  and 
other  relics  of  distinguished  men.  At  the  doorway  of  the  third 
salon,  is  a  silver  statue  of  the  British  ^linister,  George  Can- 
ning, presented  in  1857  to  Dr.  Alsina.  In  the  salon  is  a 
reconstruction  of  the  chamber  in  which  San  jMartin  lived  and 
died,  the  furniture,  pictures,  etc.,  given  by  his  desci-ndants, 
with  pictures  of  the  battles  in  which  he  fought,  and  a  hundred 
other  interesting  objects.  In  the  fourth  room  is  preserved  un- 
der a  glass  his  uniform  as  Protector  of  Peru,  and  his  saber  of 
jMoorish  style.  ^NFedals,  flags,  and  various  otlier  interesting 
relics  are  here  also.  The  sixth  room  has,  with  otlier  relies, 
trojihies,  and  representations  of  the  war  with  Paraguay. 

The  Libraries  of  the  city  will  be  visited  by  tourists  of  literary 
tastes  if  not  by  others.  The  Nadonal  Library  was  founded  at 
the  very  birth  of  the  nation  in  ISIO,  by  the  Kevolutionary 
Junta,  who  placed  in  charge  Dr.  .Mariano  ]Moreno.  In  17II6, 
the  prelate,  don  Manuel  Azamory  Ramirez,  had  at  his  death 
left  his  books  for  this  object,  but  the  English  invasion  in  LS06 
delayed  the  execution  of  the  i)lan.  The  project  received  en- 
thusiastic support  in  the  substantial  form  of  gifts.  Installed 
in  a  house  of  the  Jesuits  where  it  remained  till  1!K)2,  it  was 
then  removed  to  its  present  quarters  on  ealle  Mexico,  560- 
566,  soon  to  be  enlarged.  A  line  vestibule  and  staircase  lead 
to  the  spacious  reading-room.  There  is  a  handsonn"  hall  for 
lectures,  and  the  ordinary  appurtenances  of  a  library.  The 
institution  in  1880  passed  from  the  hands  of  the  City  to  the 


246  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

Government,  wlien  Buenos  Aires  was  federalized.  Tlie  Ijuild- 
ing,  heated  in  winter,  is  then  open  from  11.30  to  4;  in  sum- 
mer, from  noon  till  5.  The  last  figures  obtainable  were  of 
200,000  volumes  and  10,000  MS. 

Equally  interesting  is  the  Library  of  the  late  General  B. 
Mitre,  preserved  in  his  former  residence,  San  IMarlin,  336, 
where  he  died;  this,  Congress  has  decreed  a  public  monu- 
ment in  recognition  of  his  glorious  services  to  the  nation  as  a 
statesman,  a  writer,  and  a  soldier.  The  dissipation  of  the 
library  would  have  been  a  public  calamity.  It  is  a  bibliogra- 
phic treasure,  amassed  by  General  JMitre  during  fifty  years  of 
active  intellectual  life.  It  is  distinguished  by  American  his- 
torical works,  especially  documents  and  MS.  collected  for  his 
own  writings,  the  Story  of  Belgrano,  3  vol.  and  of  San 
Martin,  4  vol.  The  library  has  twelve  sections,  including 
the  works  on  the  pre-Columbian  native  races  of  America, 
their  languages,  culture,  geography,  etc. ;  the  discovery  of 
America ;  further  exploration ;  Rio  de  la  Plata  in  general 
and  particular ;  Spanish  America ;  Portuguese  America ; 
North  America ;  boundary  limits,  laws,  seals,  constitutions, 
treaties,  etc. ;  with  letters  and  stamps.  I  was  interested  to 
observe  under  glass  a  letter  written  by  Sidney  S.  Rider  of 
Providence,  informing  the  General  of  his  election  as  an 
Honorary  Member  of  the  Rhode  Island  Historical  Society,  an 
evidence  that  his  fame  had  reached  one  corner  of  the  United 
States. 

The  Library  Bivaelavia,  Lavalle,  935,  founded  ^la}^  20,  1879, 
by  the  Bernardino  Rivadavia  Association,  is  free  to  readers, 
but  the  members  pay  one  peso  a  month  for  the  privilege  of 
taking  out  books.     It  contains  about  30,000  volumes. 

The  Library  of  the  Sociedad  Tipogrdfica  Bonaerense,  Solis 
707,  with  more  than  5000  volumes,  is  noteworthy  as  receiving 
all  journals  and  reviews  of  the  Republic.  Open  7-10  p.  m. 
Entrance  free. 

There  are  especial  libraries:  that  of  the  Faculty  of  Medicine, 
Cordoba  2180,  open  daily  to  students  and  the  public,  and 
having  more  than  20,000  volumes,  that  of  the  Law,  ^Moreno 
350,  and  that  on  Education,  well  stocked  on  this  subject,  for 
the  use  of  teachers  and  others  who  may  apply.     The  library 


PATIO    IN    NKW    HALL    OF   JUSTICE 


COLON  THKAIKL 


BUENOS  AIRES  247 

of  La  Prcnsa  is  open  to  the  public  from  2  to  7  and  from  9  to 
12  p.  m. 

In  this  connection  reference  to  the  newspapers  seems  appro- 
priate. The  leading  journals  publish  news  from  every  cor- 
ner of  the  globe,  all  that  is  wortliy  of  interest :  they  contain 
much  more  foreign  news  and  cable  dispatches  than  any  New 
York  paper.  Instead  of  the  enormous  quantity  of  trivial  gos- 
sip about  public  and  private  individuals  which  forms  so  large 
a  part  of  the  reading  matter  of  most  of  our  papers,  they  have 
in  addition  to  real  news  of  State,  and  of  mercantile  and 
commercial  matters  at  home  and  abroad,  articles  scientific 
and  literary,  information  as  to  art,  music,  and  every  tield  of 
activity.  In  their  high  ideals  of  duty  in  molding  public 
opinion  and  in  correcting  abuses,  they  are  regarded  by  foreign 
critics  as  among  the  most  important  and  advanced  of  the 
world.  To  this,  the  first  rank  of  their  press,  belong  the 
Prensa  and  the  Nation  among  morning  papers,  the  Diario 
and  La  Razon,  of  afternoon.  These,  with  El  Pais,  Tiempo,  and 
La  Patria  dcgli  Italiani  show  the  highest  degree  of  excellence 
as  to  their  illustrations,  typography,  material,  and  housing. 
La  Xacion,  originating  in  1857  under  the  name  Los  Debates, 
was  edited  by  Gen.  Mitre  until  1862,  and  in  1870,  took  its 
present  name.  It  is  noted  for  the  elegance  and  literary  char- 
acter, as  Avell  as  for  the  intrinsic  value  of  its  writings.  There 
are  more  than  400  publications  in  the  Repul)lic  including  100 
in  foreign  languages,  many  naturally  poor  and  ephemeral 
in  character.  There  are  some  excellent  illustrated  papers; 
Caras  y  Carctas,  the  P.  B.  T.  and  La  lUustracion  Sud-AtiKr- 
icana. 

On  the  Plaza  Lavalle  are  several  important  buildings  of 
great  interest  to  every  tourist.  On  the  west  side  is  the  new 
Palace  of  Justice  on  a  site  formerly  occupied  by  the  Artillt-ry 
Armory,  a  work  of  much  splendor  botli  witliout  and  within; 
the  edifice,  of  the  neo-Greek  style,  constructed  by  Josepli  E. 
Hernasconi  after  a  design  by  the  French  architect,  Norbert 
IMeillar,  at  a  cost  of  about  a  million  and  a  half  dollars.  Tiio 
main  building,  125  feet  in  height,  has  sevt-n  stoi-ies,  the  four 
central  bodies  surmounted  by  a  cupola.  Steps  h-ad  from  the 
Plaza  to  a  broad  i)ortico  and  vestil)ule,  from  wiiieh  fine  stair- 


248  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

ways  conduct  to  tlie  third  lloor,  the  scat  of  the  Supreme  Court. 
Otlier  great  staircases  lead  up  from  north  and  south ;  from 
Lavalle  street  is  a  covered  passage  Avay  admitting  vehicles 
with  criminals.  On  the  main  floor  are  the  chambers  for 
Federal  Courts  and  their  Secretaries,  the  Criminal  and  Cor- 
rectional Tribunals.  A  Jury  Hall  is  an  amphitheater  seating 
700.  The  Supreme  Court  Room  on  the  third  floor,  70  by  38 
feet  and  60  feet  high,  is  separated  from  the  front  by  a  fine 
gallery  looking  upon  the  plaza.  Every  floor  is  arranged  for 
eight  tribunals  or  courts,  each  with  audience  chamber,  pri- 
vate rooms  for  judge  and  secretaries,  and  rooms  for  employees. 
There  are  several  patios  adorned  with  beautiful  columns,  one 
in  style  somewhat  after  the  Caryatides  of  the  Erechtheion 
in  Athens.  The  archives  will  be  kept  on  the  ground  floor : 
the  three  upper  stories  are  reserved  for  use  when  needed.  Six 
passenger  elevators  and  two  freight  supply  required  service. 
On  the  opposite  side  of  the  plaza  is  a  building  which  to 
many  will  be  still  more  attractive,  the  Colon  Theater,  with- 
out its  equal  in  America,  and  some  say  in  the  w'orld.  No 
shops  disfigure  the  ground  floor,  nor  do  any  of  the  facades 
resemble  the  walls  of  a  prison.  The  exterior  is  of  the  Ionic 
order  of  architecture  below,  the  Corinthian  above,  and  at  the 
top  a  rather  composite  construction.  The  height  to  the  cor- 
nice is  about  80  feet.  From  the  main  entrance  on  the  plaza 
a  vestibule  leads  to  a  hall  45  by  90  feet  and  80  feet  high,  from 
which  a  staircase  45  feet  wide  and  adorned  with  16  large 
statues  conducts  to  the  level  of  the  orchestra  chairs  of  the 
auditorium,  one  of  the  largest  in  the  world,  accommodating 
3570  persons.  The  entire  length  of  one  balcony  is  nearly 
250  feet,  10  more  than  that  of  St.  Charles  in  Naples.  The 
floor  space  90  by  70,  has  900  chairs  on  7  levels.  The  stage,  60 
feet  broad  and  65  feet  high,  from  foundations  to  arch  is  150 
feet.  The  building  is  fire-proof,  with  fine  acoustic  properties, 
and  the  best  of  light,  heat,  and  ventilation.  The  cost  was 
nearly  $2,000,000.  The  theater  is  a  government  building 
where  operas  are  performed  by  the  leading  European  artists, 
Mascagui  and  others  conducting.  It  has  been  said  that  the 
Argentines  discover  the  great  singers ;  later  they  come  to  New 
York.  The  seats  are  more  expensive  than  at  the  ^Metropolitan 
and  the  audience  is  as  brilliant  as  any  in  the  world. 


Lii--.4,^__^:*i 


TOMB,    RECOLETA    CEMETEHT 


UKIULKTA    TAUK 


BUExXOS  AIRES  249 

The  edifice  north  of  the  theater  deserves  more  than  a  pass- 
ing glance,  a  beautiful  school  building  called  the  President 
Boca,  fitted  with  all  the  latest  improvements  and  containing  a 
charming  patio  at  which  every  one  should  take  a  peep,  since 
this  may  be  done  without  disturbing  the  inmates.  An  equally 
beautiful  school  building  is  the  Sanniento  on  Callao.  On  the 
opposite  side  of  the  Tlaza  Lavalle  is  another  excellent  and 
well  equipped  school. 

]\Iany  theaters  there  are  besides  the  Colon ;  the  Opera,  Cor- 
rientes  860,  used  for  light  opera  and  plays,  the  San  Martin  on 
Esmeralda  257,  the  National  Theater  designed  for  the  repre- 
sentation of  works  written  in  the  country,  and  many  more  of 
all  classes  including  vaudeville  and  cinematograph,  as  may 
be  seen  by  consulting  the  dailj''  papers.  The  performances 
begin  usually  at  8.30,  sometimes  at  9.  For  the  oi)era,  full 
dress  is  de  rigueiir,  the  ladies  en  elecoUete;  and  the  spectacle 
on  a  fete  day,  as  the  25th  of  .May  or  9th  of  July,  should  not 
be  missed  by  the  tourist. 

At  the  Colisee  Argentin,  Charcas  1109,  is  a  permanent 
circus  of  modern  arrangement  accommodating  1700. 

In  the  city  are  many  Conservatories  of  Music  and  nuisical 
societies.  Concerts  are  given  in  various  places,  besides  those 
in  the  Parks  by  the  excellent  military  bands. 

Six  blocks  west  of  Plaza  Lavalle  and  two  north,  facing 
Paraguay  street,  is  a  fine  building  occupying  a  whole  block, 
the  purpose  of  which  would  hardly  be  suspected.  Instead  of 
the  public  institution  which  it  might  be  supposed  to  contain, 
it  has  indeed  pul)lic  works,  tanks  containing  the  city's  water 
supply.  It  is  called  the  Ayuas  Cofricntes  and  may  be  in- 
spected within,  on  a  permit  to  be  i)rocured  from  the  President 
of  the  Commi.ssion,  Rivadavia  1255.  A  fine  view  of  the  city 
will  be  enjoyed  from  the  roof. 

The  l)ui]ding  opposite  is  the  Xormal  School  for  Girls. 

A  little  fartlier  west  is  the  building  of  the  Muhcal  School, 
facing  Cordoba,  and  on  the  corner  of  Los  Andes.  The  fine 
edifice  contains  offices,  lecfurc  halls,  a  large  amphitheater, 
lal)oratories,  disse(;ting  rooms,  lihraiy,  etc.  The  luindsomcly 
decorated  salon  where  degrees  are  conf»'rred  has  a  criling  of 
artistic  merit  representing  the  triumph  of  Science,  i'aintings 
on  the  walls  illustrate  some  of  these,  such   as  Jeuner  iu- 


250  TIIK  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

noculating  with  the  first  vaccine,  Pasteur  examining  cultures 
of  microbes,  and  many  others.  In  the  amphitheater  is  a 
large  painting  by  Charles  Leroy,  representing  Medilalion 
upon  Dialli,  presented  by  Dr.  Toribio  Ayi-rza.  Tlie  scliool  has 
annexes  for  Pharmacy  and  Dentistry  and  in  a  separate  build- 
ing a  School  of  Obstetrics  for  midwives.  Opposite  the  Medi- 
cal School,  is  the  Maternity  Hospital,  and  connected  with  the 
former  the  Morgue,  equi])ped  in  the  finest  manner  with  re- 
frigerators and  every  facility  desirable  for  such  an  estal)lish- 
ment.  The  public  entrance  is  on  Junin.  The  standard  of 
the  Medical  School  is  so  high  that  only  about  60  per  cent  of 
its  students  are  graduated.  Other  departments  of  the  Univer- 
sity are  located  in  different  parts  of  the  city.  A  beautiful 
structure  of  the  Gothic  style  of  architecture  has  been  designed 
for  the  Law  School.  The  Agricultural  School  in  the  sub- 
urbs has  commodious  buildings  and  large  grounds. 

The  Becoleta  Cemetery,  no  one  should  fail  to  visit.  Well 
within  the  city,  it  is  easy  of  access  by  car  or  carriage,  in  the 
direction  of  Palermo  Park  but  not  so  far, — a  city  of  the  dead 
among  the  living,  a  crowded  city  wdth  no  room  for  more, 
save  in  the  lots  and  tombs  already  w^ell  filled.  The  Munic- 
ipal Cemetery  now  in  general  use,  supplied  with  a  crematory, 
is  the  Chacarita,  five  miles  from  the  Plaza.  But  in  the  Re- 
coleta  are  monuments  to  many  Argentine  heroes,  and  splendid 
works  of  art  which  would  adorn  any  gallery.  To  mention 
even  the  most  notable  of  these  would  require  too  much  space. 
A  few  only  may  be  named.  In  a  chapel  near  the  entrance  is 
a  great  marble  Crucifix  by  IMonteverde,  the  Christ  represented 
in  realistic  agony.  A  beautiful  statue  of  Grief  by  Tantar- 
dini  stands  upon  the  tomb  of  Quiroga.  Among  the  finest 
of  the  tombs  is  that  of  Dr.  Francois  J.  ^luniz,  physician, 
soldier,  and  philanthropist.  A  superb  female  figure  of  bronze 
representing  Science,  is  seated  below,  a  bust  of  the  physician 
is  above.  The  tombs  of  Ayerza,  of  Ocampo,  and  others  are 
also  adorned  with  beautiful  statues  of  allegorical  figures.  A 
full  half  day  should  be  allowed  for  a  careful  study  of  the 
works  of  art  and  the  tombs  of  many  famous  Argentines. 

A  visit  to  the  Frigorificos  and  to  the  Docks  and  Harhar 
should  be  on  the  programme  of  every  tourist.  Those  who  care 
for  such  things  may  like  first  to  visit  the  Slaughter  Hauses 


DljILI)lN(i    OK    I'LllhlC    M<  HooL,    rtAUMII-..>  lo 


BUENOS  AIRES  251 

on  the  edge  of  the  town,  the  extreme  west,  at  a  phice  appro- 
priately called  Nueva  Chicago.  These,  inaugurated  ^larch, 
1900,  occupy  an  iininense  rectangle  on  ^Nlerlo,  Arco,  and  San 
Fernando  streets,  about  1200  by  3000  feet.  The  abaltuirs 
against  the  outer  wall  cover  each  400  square  feet  and  the 
courts  for  the  animals,  15,000  feet ;  room  for  30,000  head  of 
cattle.  All  arrangements  are  of  the  best  fashion,  with  suitable 
constructions  for  every  necessity,  including  a  crematory  for 
useless  animals.  To  see  the  animals  slaughtered,  a  visit  should 
be  made  in  the  early  morning.  The  tramways  leading  thither 
may  be  taken  on  calle  San  Juan  or  on  Rivadavia ;  round  trip 
by  the  former,  70  ctvs.;  by  the  latter  10  ctvs.  each  way.  An 
hour  must  be  allowed  for  the  journey. 

]\Iany  who  Avill  prefer  to  be  excused  from  visiting  slaughter 
houses  may  yet  enjoy  a  visit  to  the  great  Frigorificos,  where 
no  unpleasant  sights  need  be  witnessed,  but  wliere  some  in- 
sight may  be  gained  into  the  wonderful  industry  which  has 
been  so  great  a  factor  in  the  rapid  increase  of  Argentina's 
wealth.  An  electric  car  will  take  one  to  the  bridge  across  the 
Riachuelo,  an  imjiortant  structure  of  iron  opened  in  August, 
1902,  of  immense  service  to  the  teams  carrying  loads  to  the 
Central  Produce  ^Market,  the  Mcrcado  Central  dc  Fnitos 
(not  fruits),  where  cattle  and  agricultural  products  are  sold 
for  export,  an  immense  traffic,  the  most  important,  it  is  said, 
in  South  America.  As  long  ago  as  190G,  5000  vehicles  daily 
crossed  this  bridge.  At  the  left  on  the  other  side  is  the  Fri- 
gorifico  La  Blaiica,  opened  Sept.  1903,  an  esta))lishment  of 
imposing  appearance  and  completeness  with  its  courts,  offices, 
and  warehouses.  Passing  some  of  these,  one  comes  to  a  pool 
in  which  animals  by  the  hundred  are  l)athed  before  going 
to  the  slaughter  house,  whither  ivc  are  not  obliged  to  follow. 
Here  is  a  track  on  which  run  automatic  cars  transporting  the 
slain  animals  to  the  air  chaml)ers.  Three  boih-rs  of  200 
horse  power,  a  depot  of  ammonia,  a  lire  engine  and  two 
electric  light  installations  are  beyond  the  three  refrigerating 
chambers,  which  will  acconnnodate  at  tiie  same  time  7000 
beef  and  70,000  sheep.  The  jiipes  of  ammonia  are  GO  miles 
long.  To  see  rows  on  rows  of  hanging  cattle  covereil  with  a 
thin  coating  of  snow  as  it  appears,  n'ally  frost,  which  on 
pipes  and  walls  is  a  (puirter  of  an  inch  thick,  is  quite  im- 


252  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

prcssive.  The  fortunate  visitor  may  be  regaled  ])y  the  Eng- 
lish Superintendent  with  a  hospitable  cup  of  tea. 

Beyond  this  establishment  is  the  Mercado  de  Frutos,  the 
great  wool  market  of  the  world,  where  other  products  also 
are  sold,  grain,  cattle,  fruit,  etc.  The  iron  building  which 
covers  over  30  acres  cost  $4,155,000  gold.  It  contains  72 
cranes  and  elevators,  44  hydraulic  presses,  motors,  engines, 
etc.  With  a  capacity  of  over  50,000,000  lbs.  of  wool  the 
greatest  quantity  yet  stored  was  in  Feb.  1901,  when  there 
were  35  million  lbs.  within  and  5  million  in  wagons  outside. 
To  see  the  wools  being  sorted,  and  other  operations,  and  at 
other  times  of  the  year  the  different  products  of  the  season 
is  of  very  great  interest. 

Above  the  bridge,  the  Frigoripco  La  Kegra,  founded  in  1883 
by  Sansinena,  employs  nearly  700  men  and  boys,  has  four 
Stern  refrigerating  machines,  and  three  from  Switzerland,  and 
with  a  capital  of  $3,000,000  pays  annual  dividends  of  from 
18  to  50  per  cent.  Another  establishment  called  Frigonfico 
Argentino,  a  joint  stock  company,  is  nearly  as  large  as  the 
Mercado  de  Frutos.  A  single  man  kills  6000  sheep  daily, 
so  skillful  is  he  and  so  perfect  are  the  arrangements.  In 
connection  with  the  beef  is  a  department  for  making  Liebitr's 
Extract.  Many  interesting  operations  carried  on  here  would 
take  too  long  to  describe. 

A  great  establishment  in  this  quarter  is  that  of  Domingo 
Noceti  &  Co.  with  immense  workshops,  foundry,  iron-work, 
etc.,  connected  wdth  the  railway. 

On  the  way  thither  or  on  the  return,  several  important 
institutions  may  be  passed  or  visited. 

The  Hospital  Mercedes  for  the  Insane,  established  in  1863, 
is  w^ell  located  on  the  calle  Brandsen,  on  high  land  with  fine 
large  buildings  and  grounds,  the  latter  including  well  paved, 
shaded  streets,  parks,  and  gardens.  It  has  separate  apart- 
ments for  persons  needing  continual  surveillance,  and  for 
all  grades  and  conditions,  each  section  with  refectory,  salon, 
dormitory,  etc. ;  also  workshops  for  the  manufacture  of  many 
articles,  and  opportunities  for  gardening,  painting,  music,  etc., 
for  those  who  are  able  to  work.  At  one  time  there  were  more 
than  1000  poor  patients  and  132  paying.  Baths,  medicinal 
and  plain,  a  gymnasium,  library,  music,  and  billiard  rooms 


PASEO    COLON,    GRAIN    ELEVATORS    IN    THE    DISTANCE 


DAIiSENA    NDUI)    AM)    MAIUM.    Mim-.-t 


BUENOS  AIRES  25:3 

are  provided.  Opposite  is  a  Building  for  Idiots,  established 
1855  by  philanthropists,  with  accommodations  for  5U0. 

The  Arsenal  of  M'ar,  also  in  this  quarter  of  the  city,  may  be 
reached  by  cars  coming  down  Callao  and  Entre  Rios,  though 
located  on  Pozos  between  CJaray  and  Brazil.  Everything 
needful  for  the  making  or  repairing  of  war  nuiterial,  for  the 
furnishing  of  barracks  and  most  of  the  military  establish- 
ments, is  here  provided.  The  workshops  will  intcn'st  many, 
and  the  depot  of  Avar  supplies.  The  buildings,  li|_ditfd  by 
electricity,  are  surrounded  by  large  and  well  planted  gardens. 
There  is  a  gallerj'  for  artillery  practice.  If  passing  along 
the  Ave.  Callao,  at  540  the  school  building  Sarmioito  should 
be  noticed,  admirable  both  without  and  within. 

The  splendid  Docks  of  Buoios  Aires  deserve  the  attention 
of  every  visitor.  Although  now  utterly  inadequate  for  the 
requirements  of  the  city's  commerce  they  are  models  as  far 
as  they  go.  AVheu  constructed  it  was  supposed  that  they 
would  provide  ample  accommodations  for  many  years,  as  no 
one  looked  forward  to  the  astonishingly  rapid  growth  of  both 
city  and  commerce.  The  port  has  two  sections,  the  original 
and  natural  harbor  at  the  Riachuelo  south  of  the  city,  where 
the  stream  so  called,  entering  the  River,  allows  ships  drawing 
18  feet  only  to  go  some  distance  up.  The  docks  on  both  sides 
of  this  stream  form  a  very  important  au.xiliary  to  the  more 
modern  section  on  the  River,  the  tonnage  some  years  ago 
reaching  1,200,000  annually. 

The  chief  port  constructed  on  the  bank  of  the  great  River 
is  composed  of  two  large  basins  called  the  north  and  south 
<larse)ws,  and  between  these,  four  docks.  Tiie  I)ars(  na  Sud 
is  more  than  half  a  mile  long  and  500  feet  wide,  the  lir.st  and 
second  docks  are  about  1800  by  500  feet,  the  other  two  a  little 
smaller.  The  Darscna  Norte  has  an  area  of  a  million  scpiare 
feet.  In  the  basins  the  depth  of  water  is  21  feet,  in  tiie 
doeks  2:?. 9  at  the  lowest.  The  entire  water  surface  of  this 
port  is  over  150  acres.  The  Riachuelo  has  but  two  sheds  for 
merchandise;  this,  the  Capital  i>ort,  li;is  24  di-pots,  S  of  iron 
and  16  of  masonry.  Their  dock  frontage  is  8000  feet,  their 
capacity  over  2  million  cubic  feet.  There  is  liydraulic  motive 
power,  four  motors,  M6  elevators,  iuid  all  otlier  necessities, 
including  nearly  50  miles  of  railway. 


254  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

Two  large  grain  elevators  at  Docks  2  and  3  belong  to 
private  companies,  one  with  a  capacity  for  85,000  tons  of 
grain.  Next  to  these  is  a  mill  for  making  flour,  the  Rio  de 
la  Plata,  which  cost  $15,000,000.  The  port  is  lighted  by 
electricity,  180  lamps  of  280  watts,  and  261  of  400  watts 
placed  100  feet  apart,  so  that  ships  can  come  in  by  night  as 
well  as  by  day.  It  is  said  to  be  the  best  lighted  harbor  in 
the  world,  except  that  of  London.  New  York  is  far  ])ehind. 
The  cost  of  the  harbor  works  was  approximately  $35,000,000. 
Plans  are  already  made  for  vastly  greater  facilities  extending 
for  miles  up  the  river. 

The  neatness  and  cleanliness  of  the  docks  and  their  ap- 
proaches will  probably  excite  the  greatest  astonishment,  and 
the  manner  in  which  they  are  shut  off  from  the  rest  of  the 
city  by  the  beautiful  Parque  de  Julio  and  the  Paseo  Colon. 
Between  these  and  the  river  is  an  immensely  broad,  well 
paved  street  with  appropriate  structures  and  ample  room  for 
all  traffic.  A  call  to  see  the  Immigrants'  Hotel,  where  fine 
accommodations  for  the  use  of  the  immigrants  are  provided 
in  several  large  buildings  close  to  the  Darsena  Nord,  is  well 
worth  while. 

An  excursion  by  no  means  to  be  omitted  is  that  to  El 
Tigre,  the  fashionable  summer  and  boating  resort,  where 
regattas  at  times  occur  and  where  all  kinds  of  water  craft 
are  in  evidence.  It  is  a  short  rail  or  boat  ride,  an  hour  or  so, 
to  the  delightful  spot  where  the  river  Tigre  flows  into  La 
Plata.  The  former  is  overspread  with  a  perfect  network  of 
islands  covered  with  trees,  gardens,  meadows,  and  charming 
vine-clad  cottages.  On  the  main  shore  are  prett}^  hotels  and 
restaurants  with  music  and  other  attractions,  people  in  out- 
ing flannels  and  in  evening  dress,  a  delightful  combination  of 
wealth,  fashion,  and  natural  beauty,  which  every  one  may 
enjoy. 

An  excursion  should  be  made  from  Buenos  Aires  to  La 
Plata;  according  to  one's  taste  and  pocketbook,  to  i\Iar  del 
Plata.  A  visit  to  an  estancia  will  be  greatly  enjoyed  if  per- 
mission can  be  obtained  from  the  proprietor;  but  the  large 
ones  near  the  city  are  few  in  number  and  obviously  it  would 
be  inconvenient  for  them  to  entertain  all  passing  travelers. 
With  friends  at  court,  the  few  may  be  able  to  arrange  a  visit. 


ON    THE    lilVER    TIGHE 


lJi(JlbU\nVl.    lUll.hlN'.,     I.A     11. MA 


LA  PLATA  255 

At  estancias  far  ont  on  the  campo  it  is  different,  and  the  rare 
stranger  is  pretty  sure  to  receive  a  Avelconie. 

La  Plata.  The  excursion  requires  a  full  long  d;iy.  The 
journey  is  made  by  rail  from  the  fine  large  station  on  the 
Plaza  Constitucion,  by  the  Southern  Railway,  the  F.  C.  S. 
The  first  important  station  is  Quilmc.^,  9  km.,  a  historic  spot, 
taking  its  name  from  an  Indian  ti'il)e  which  was  conquered 
and  deported  in  1G70.  Here  landed,  June  25,  1806,  the 
English  General  Beresford  with  2000  soldiers  for  the  capture 
of  Buenos  Aires,  meeting  with  temporary  success;  and  off 
shore  Feb.  24,  1827,  Admiral  Brown  defeated  the  Brazilian 
squadron  during  a  war  for  the  possession  of  Uruguay.  A 
pretty  Gothic  church  may  be  seen  from  the  station.  On 
the  edge  of  the  town  is  a  vineyard,  a  brewery  also.  So  far 
come  electric  cars,  starting  from  a  bridge  over  the  Biachuelo 
in  the  part  of  the  city  called  Barracas.  From  the  station 
Pcreyra,  89  kilometers,  a  branch  road  goes  to  the  port  of 
Enscnada,  and  in  this  vicinity  are  several  large  cfiiancias,  the 
San  Juan,  the  Pereyra,  and  the  Eslancia  Grande.  Fifty- 
seven  kilometers  southeast  of  Buenos  Aires  and  five  fi-om 
Knsenada  is  La  Plata,  a  city  made  to  order,  like  Washington, 
to  be  the  capital,  not  of  the  Republic,  but  of  the  Province, 
we  should  say  State,  of  Buenos  Aires,  after  the  city,  B.  A., 
had  been  made  the  Fedei-al  Capital.  The  decree  was  pronuil- 
gated  Nov.  19,  1882.  The  city  is  well  planned  with  rec- 
tangular blocks,  but  with  the  addition  of  many  diagonal 
boulevards,  of  parks  and  plazas.  On  account  of  the  wonder- 
ful growth  of  Buenos  Aires,  so  near,  the  development  of  La 
Plata  has  not  e(iualed  expectations,  as  for  nuiny  years  was 
llie  case  with  our  own  capital,  Washington;  but  in  time,  liLe 
that,  it  will  become  a  splendid  city.  The  eliicf  points  worthy 
of  observation  are  the  various  (Jovernin.iil  liuiMings,  the 
Casa  de  GohicrnOy  residence  and  ofliees  ol"  the  (iovernor, 
the  Legislative  Unll,  the  Citij  liuilding  (.Munieipalidad),  the 
Dircccion  de  Escuelas,  the  Department  of  Eiujinars,  the 
great  University  Buddimjs,  the  Astronomieal  Ohsi  rvatonj 
founded  by  the  Government  in  ]SS;{,  and  most  famous  of 
all,  the  Museum.  A  ean-iage  may  be  liiretl  at  the  station  at 
one  peso  an  hour,  or  a  ti-amear  will  make  a  considerable  cir- 
cuit, fare  10  eentavos.     A  large  Asylum  for  M<  ndieants,  .satis- 


256  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

fying  an  important  social  necessity,  lias  In-en  erected  by  the 
philantliropist,  Placide  Martin. 

The  La  I'lata  Museum  (open  Sundays  and  Thursdays  from 
1  to  4  p.m.),  having  a  world  wide  reputation  for  its  large 
collection,  anthropological  and  ethnological,  was  founded  Sept. 
17,  1884,  by  Francisco  P.  Moreno.  While  the  departments 
mentioned  are  the  most  famous,  the  museum  also  contains 
sections  devoted  to  zoology,  geology  and  mineralogy,  and  to 
archa'ology.  The  substantial  architecture  of  the  building  and 
the  arrangement  of  the  interior  and  of  the  specimens  is  equal 
to  that  of  European  collections.  Unscientilic  persons  will  be 
interested  in  many  of  the  objects  presented,  the  stuffed  ani- 
mals, the  skeletons  of  prehistoric  creatures,  the  mummies,  the 
pottery,  and  other  objects. 

Mar  del  Plata,  called  the  Newport  of  South  America,  is  an 
extremely  expensive  and  fashionable  seaside  resort  about  250 
miles  from  Buenos  Aires.  The  night  trains  with  Pullman 
ears  are  well  patronized.  In  the  summer  season  tickets  must 
be  procured  in  advance  and  rooms  engaged  at  the  hotels. 
The  Hotel  Bristol,  American  plan,  12  pesos  up,  is  the  most 
luxurious,  equipped  with  every  possible  convenience.  The 
Grand,  Victoria,  Royal,  and  many  others  are  very  comfortable. 

The  city  has  more  than  10,000  inhabitants,  with  boulevards, 
plazas,  splendid  chalets,  and  "cottages"  of  the  Newport 
fashion.  There  are  casinos,  theaters,  golf  course,  bathing 
establishments,  and  everything  requisite  for  a  resort  of  wealth 
and  fashion  on  the  grandest  scale. 

Montevideo,  Uruguay.  The  one  night  journey  is  usually 
made  by  the  tine  boats  of  the  IMihauovich  Line  or  by  the  elegant 
new  steamers  of  the  Cap  Line,  equal  to  the  best  of  our  river 
boats. 


UNTVEESITY    BUILDING,    LA    PL.VTA 


'rwi 


MUbKtM,    L.\.    I'LATA 


CHAPTER  XXV 

THE  IGUASSU  FALLS  AND  PAKAGIAY 

Impoktaxt  ARCiKNTixf:  Cities 

Among  the  nations  of  the  ancient  or  the  modern  Morkl.  not 
one  do  we  know  with  a  history  in  some  respects  so  extraor- 
dinary as  that  of  Paraguay.  Yet  of  the  thousands  aiimiany 
who  will  soon  be  makin<,'  the  South  American  Tour^SL-arccly 

(mf     would     ^"'     ^   iinpf>->i     hy     l,tti,,nn'r,     i'ii/iiv,.t/     tn     jniirn.iy     1000 

miles  from  the  l)caten  track.  Put  the  ar((if<st  irah  rfall  in  the 
'irorld!  Ah,  that  is  anothfi-  matter!  A  watn-fall  hiirgcr  than 
Niagara^  higiier  and  with  more  watcr_2  'I'nily  tl'--'t  i<  tln^ 
tale!  >So  while  the  majority,  who  wisli  to  make  the  trip  in 
three  months  or  so,  or'wliO  have  come  m  the  wrong  season,  may 
go  direclly  on  from  J:^uenos  Aires  to  ^Montevideo,  some  will 
-dFCideTo  visit  tlie  Iguassii  Falls,  and  then,  l)eing  near,  will 
cross  over  to  Asuncion,  the  capital  ot  l^araguay. 


— TcXTew  it  would  be  pleasant  to  make  the  entire  journey 
upward  in  the  fine  steamers  of  ]\Iihanovicli.  Althou<_di  the 
banks  of  the  wide  Parana  are  too  distant  and  too  flat  to  at^brd 
much  scenic  beaut}',  there  is  some  interest  in  calling  at  various 
cities  along  the  w-ay,  and  in  noting  the  gradual  change  from 
a  temj>erate  to  a  tropical  clime,  with  the  variation  in  verdure 
and  animal  life,  especially  of  birds;  higher  up  between  nar- 
rowing shores  or  islands  are  fascinating  stretches  of  forest, 
interspersed  with  pretty  pastoral  scenes.  All  the  way  to 
Asuncion,  a  Aveek's  journey,  one  may  sail  in  the  same  com- 
modious steamer;  but  if  first  visiting  the  Falls,  a  change  will 
be  made  at  Corrientes;  for  the  Alio  J'arana  on  whieh  Posa<las 
is  situated  is  more  shallow  than  the  Paraguay  on  whose  bank 
is  Asuncion. 

The  shorter  way,  appealing  to  the  greater  nundier.  is  to  go 
by  rail  to  Posadas,  tlieiiee  by  steamer  to  the  Falls  and  return, 
continuing   by   rail    from    Posadas    to    Asuncion.     The    river 

257 


258  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

route,  obviously  shorter  coining  down,  may  be  taken  for  the 
return  to  Buenos  Aires,  or  the  rail  route  through  Posadas. 

The  cross-country  ride  through  the  provinces  of  Entre 
Rios  and  Corrieutes  on  the  way  to  Posadas  will  give  a  view 
of  the  fertile  pampas  and  their  rich  agricultural  products, 
of  ostriches,  of  enormous  herds  of  cattle,  and  of  the  wooded 
banks  of  the  Uruguay;  through  Misiones,  of  a  pretty  rolling 
country.  The  towns  are  generally  small.  At  last  accounts 
a  day  and  a  half  was  required  for  the  journey. 

Posadas,  capital  of  the  territory  Misiones,  is  a  thriving 
town  of  10,000  inhabitants,  destined  to  more  rapid  growth, 
now  that  it  has  through  railway  connection  with  Buenos 
Aires,  and,  after  crossing  the  Parana,  with  Asunci(3n ;  the 
whole  section  will  share  in  the  prosperity  promoted  by  better 
transportation  facilities.  The  three  hotels  of  Posadas,  one  of 
which,  terms,  $2.00  a  day,  is  called  fairly  comfortable,  will 
be  sure  to  improve.  There  is  a  fine  Government  Building  on 
the  principal  plaza  and  other  public  edifices,  a  beautiful  prom- 
enade with  native  and  exotic  trees.  The  river  is  here  about 
a  mile  and  a  quarter  in  width, 

Iguassu  Falls.  To  visit  the  Iguassu  Falls  one  sails  from 
Posadas  in  a  boat  of  moderate  size  215  miles  up  the  Parana 
to  the  mouth  of  the  Iguassu,  and  a  mile  up  that  stream  to 
Port  Aguirre,  where  several  buildings  do  service  as  hotel, 
store,  and  post  office.  As  the  Alto  Parana  separates  Argen- 
tina from  Paraguay,  the  Iguassu  separates  it  from  Brazil, 
fiowing  from  the  east,  from  its  source  in  the  mountains  near 
the  Atlantic.  Twelve  miles  more  one  proceeds  on  mule  or  in 
a  sort  of  stage  coach,  a  four  hours'  ride.  The  road  65  feet 
wide,  begun  in  1904,  was  later  completed  by  the  contribution 
of  a  public  spirited  lady  of  Buenos  Aires,  Sta.  Victoria 
Aguirre.  Within  a  few  years  there  will  doubtless  be  an  auto- 
mobile traveling  a  good  road ;  and  a  primitive  establishment 
near  the  brink  of  a  great  cliff,  with  a  drop  of  130  feet,  will 
have  been  transformed  for  the  globe  trotters  into  a  large 
hotel  with  luxurious  accommodations.  Perhaps,  however,  the 
tourist  who  arrives  before  the  pristine  beauty  of  the  wild 
surroundings  is  converted  into  artificial  adornment  may  enjoy 
equally  well  the  magnificence  of  the  spectacle.  The  river, 
here  a  mile  and  a  half  in  width,  double  that  of  Niagara,  also 


IGUASSU  FALLS  259 

has  two  falls,  the  Argentine  comparatively  near,  the  Bra- 
zilian farther  up,  close  to  the  other  shore.  It  is  more  accu- 
rate to  say  that  there  are  from  (i(>  to  70  falls.  In  the  midst 
of  this  primeval  tropical  forest  the  i-oar  of  tiie  great  cataract 
is  impressive.  Above  the  Falls  the  river  takes  a  sharp  tnrn, 
and  iine(iual  erosion  has  given  somelhing  of  a  iiorscsiioe 
shape.  On  the  Argentine  side  most  of  the  falls  make  two 
distinct  leaps,  while  the  main  Brazilian  falls  drop  200  feet 
in  a  single  plunge.  Zigzag  paths  cut  in  the  clitf  lead  down 
to  several  beautiful  view-points.  AVhoi  the  stream  is  low, 
several  islands  on  tlie  brink  of  liie  Falls  may  be  visited  by 
canoe  and  wading.  At  one  point  near  the  Garganta  del 
Diablo,  the  Throat  of  the  Devil,  llie  traveler  with  steady 
nerves  leaning  over  the  precipiee,  in  the  midst  of  howling 
waters  and  showers  of  spray,  may  there  have  a  glorious  view 
of  the  foaming  abyss  beneath.  In  low  water  the  various 
falls,  separated  by  masses  of  rock  in  some  places  covered 
with  forest,  are  quite  distinct;  but  when  the  river  is  high 
they  are  practically  one,  the  whole  measuring  nearly  two 
miles  across,  indeed  a  worthy  rival  of  Niagara,  as  figures 
show,  in  the  midst  of  wild  and  delightful  seenery.  When  I 
saw  the  falls  in  I\Iay,  1916,  the  river  was  the  lowest,  so  they 
said,  that  it  had  been  in  ten  y(>ars,  with  not  half  so  nnieh  water 
as  our  great  Niagara,  a  Buifalo  man  said  not  one-third  ;  yet  it 
was  well  worth  a  visit. 

Comparing  this  with  the  otlier  two  gi-rat  cataracts  nf  the 
world,  N'ictoria  aiuT  .Niagara,  the  A  t'nc.in  l';ill  Icids  in  hfJLdit 
_\\itli  a  leap  Iroin  L'lii  to  •><)<'  I'l'd.  that  of  tlu'  luriiassi'i  is 
J9(i-21()  fei't.  and  Niagara  hut  If)!)  KM.  The  width  of  the 
Vietoi'ia  IS  slightly  moi-e  than  Xia^Mi-a 's ;  the  Ignassu  with 
its  13,123  feet  has  moi'c  than  donlile  the  breadth.  In  tlie 
volume  of  water  also  the  Ignassu  is  greater  at  times,  perhap? 
with  a  gi'cater  average,  but  at  low  water  it  is  fai-  less.  Oui 
great  Niagara  thus  seems  outdone  by  both,  whih'  in  the  mag- 
ical beauty  of  the  surroundings  there  is  no  comparison.  The 
Arg(Mitine  Government  is  already  awake  to  the  necessity  of 
preserving  from  sjjoliation  by  the  greedy  and  destructive 
hands  of  men  this  one  of  the  world's  marvels  for  the  admira- 
tion and  enjoyment  of  posterity,  and  is  planning  for  the  de- 
velopment here  of  a  great  National  Park,  foreseeing  that  vis- 


260  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

itors  will  come  from  all  parts  of  Europe  and  America  when 
aware  of  the  attractions  and  that  the  comforts  of  travel  will 
be  supplied. 

One  having  the  spirit  of  the  true  explorer  may  continue 
up  the  Alto  Parana  River,  now  dividing-  Paraguay  from 
Brazil,  125  miles  farther,  to  the  foaming  cataracts  of  La 
Guaijm,  sometimes  called  the  Seven  Falls  and  said  to  be  the 
mightiest  on  earth.  Above  these  is  a  great  lake  from  which 
the  water  emerging  comes  down  over  precipices  through  a 
narrow  gorge  at  one  point  but  250  feet  wide  The  waters 
drop  in  one  leap  after  another  310  feet,  descending  into  the 
gorge  below  with  a  force  so  tremendous  as  to  form  a  mael- 
strom by  the  side  of  which  the  Niagara  whirlpool  is  a  quiet 
spot.  They  are  calculated  all  together  to  have  a  force  of 
4.3  million  horsepower,  from  a  mass  of  13,000,000  cubic  feet  a 
minute.  Four  hundred  miles  farther  up  stream  are  the 
Uberaponga  Falls. 

Ruins.  One  who  delights  in  these  will  find  a  further  at- 
traction in  the  territory  of  Misiones.  Not  so  ancient  as  the 
Inca  and  other  remains  in  Peru  and  Bolivia,  they  still  have  an 
interesting  history.  Here  in  Misiones,  and  in  neighboring 
regions  of  Brazil,  occurred  the  earliest  and  most  successful 
attempt  yet  made  for  the  civilization  of  native  tribes,  instead 
of  their  extermination  or  exploitation,  ruthlessly  practiced 
for  centuries  in  most  parts  of  North  and  South  America. 
The  earliest  settlements  of  the  Indians  made  by  the  Jesuits 
were  in  the  countries  of  Paraguay  and  Brazil ;  but  as  a  result 
of  the  attacks  of  the  Portuguese,  who  carried  the  Indians  off 
into  slavery,  the  Jesuits  migrated  to  the  south  shores  of  the 
Alto  Parana  and  to  the  region  along  the  Uruguay,  taking 
with  them  their  proteges,  who  through  humane  treatment  had 
become  submissive  to  their  influence.  Thirty  villages  were 
ultimately  established,  which  in  1732  were  in  a  prosperous 
condition  with  30,362  families.  Envy  thus  arose  from  which 
and  other  reasons  the  Jesuits  were  expelled  from  the  colonies 
as  also  from  Spain  in  1768.  Bereft  of  their  leaders  the  In- 
dians, happily  domesticated  and  employed,  soon  began  to 
scatter,  and  in  1817  the  villages  were  destroyed.  The  ruins 
of  these  large  establishments,  surrounded  and  overgrown  by 


PARAGUAY  261 

thick  woods,  are  mute,  iinpre.ssive  wiliics.ses  ol"  tlie  criminal 
folly  of  man  and  of  the  destructive  power  of  nature. 

Such  ruins  exist  at  Aposfolcs,  a  railway  station  35  miles 
from  Posadas,  though  the  best  preserved  are  at  San  Ifjuacio 
Mini,  11  miles  from  Santa  Ana,  1\[>  miles  from  the  bank  of 
the  Parana. 

Historical 

Before  crossing-  the  river  into  Paraguay,  a  glance  at  its  strange 
history  is  in  order.  Wonderful  indeed  it  appears,  that  almost  in 
the  center  of  this  great  continent,  eight  hundred  miles  from  the 
sea,  a  city  Avas  founded  August  1.3,  153(),  by  three  hundred  Span- 
iards, a  full  century  before  Koger  Williams  made  a  settlement  on 
the  shores  of  Narragansett  Bay  and  seventy-one  years  i)rior  to  the 
first  English  colony  establislied  in  North  America.  The  names  of 
Juan  de  Ayolas  and  his  faithful  aid,  Captain  Martinez  de  Iraia, 
should  stand  out  more  prominently  in  the  list  of  American  pioneers, 
A  land  route  to  the  newly  discovered  rich  gold  country  of  Peru  was 
what  they  were  seeking.  With  this  end  in  view  Ayolas  establi-shed 
a  fortified  settlement  on  the  site  of  Asuncion;  then  having  made 
peace  with  the  Indians  he  pursued  his  way  north  and  west  in  the 
hope  of  winning  through  to  Peru.  For  this  purpose  he  had  been 
sent  by  Pedro  de  Mendoza,  after  that  leader  had  established  a  small 
colony  at  Buenos  Aires.  Sailing  up  the  river  to  a  natural  ]iort 
which  he  called  La  Candelaria,  he  left  here  the  ships  with  Irala  and 
forty  men,  with  orders  to  wait  for  him  four  months.  Then  ho 
plunged  into  the  vast  and  gloomy  forest. 

Somewhat  later  the  Governor  of  Buenos  Aires,  Francisco  Ruiz 
Galen,  hearing  of  Ayolas'  disappearance,  with  six  shijis  and  two 
hundred  men,  sailed  up  to  Asuncion,  arriving  about  when  Irala  for 
the  second  time  returned  fiom  La  Candelaria  for  necessary  sup- 
plies. Galen,  asserting  autliority,  refused  Irala  a  vessel  to  g<i  back. 
Months  elajised  before  the  faithful  Irala  with  angry  urging  at  length 
obtained  the  vessel.  It  was  now  the  autunm  of  ir);}S,  long  after 
the  time  set  for  Ayolas'  return.  Still  Irala  waited,  iinmrant  tluit 
Ayolas  and  all  his  followers  were  lying  dead  in  the  forest  not  far 
distant.  For  while  Irala  had  been  urging  his  demaml  for  the  ves- 
sel and  supplies,  Aynlas,  who  had  journeyed  ar'oiig  Imstile  Indians, 
swamps,  and  forests  to  the  mtmntains  of  Ciiarcas,  had  returned  un- 
scathed with  gold  and  silver  to  find  the  banks  of  the  river  de- 
serted aiul  no  vessel  in  wailing.  The  tragedy  was  pomi)lete  when 
the   Indians  fell   ui)ou   the   little  band   and   slaughtered  eveiy   one. 


262  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

Again  Irala  descended  to  Asuncion  and  again  returned  to  wait,  till 
at  last  he  learned  from  the  Indians  of  the  unhappy  fate  of  his 
chief  and  sadly  went  back  to  Asuncion.  There  he  was  enthusiastic- 
ally acclaimed  Governor  and  Captain-General  of  the  colony. 

Although  his  subsequent  career  was  far  from  smooth  he  was 
more  fortunate,  as  well  as  more  faithful  and  able,  than  most  of 
the  conquistadores,  at  last,  while  still  in  office,  dying  peacefully,  in 
1557,  at  the  age  of  seventy.  Years  of  jealousy  and  strife  followed. 
Meanwhile  the  settlement  at  Buenos  Aires  had  been  abandoned. 
Though  re-established  in  1580,  Asuncion  remained  the  chief  Span- 
ish city  on  the  eastern  slope  of  South  America  until  near  the  close 
of  the  eighteenth  century.  When,  however,  in  1776  a  Viceroy  was 
appointed  for  the  region  of  La  Plata,  he  had  his  seat  in  Buenos 
Aires.  Some  time  after  the  revolution  there  of  May  25,  1810,  a 
small  army  was  sent  from  Buenos  Aires  to  Paraguay  with  the  ex- 
pectation that  they  too  would  revolt.  Instead,  the  Argentines  were 
defeated;  but  a  little  later  the  people  of  Paraguay  demanded  the 
resignation  of  Governor  Velazco.  It  was  given  and  a  new  gov- 
ernment was  peacefully  organized,  to  be  followed  by  many  changes, 
until  in  1844  Carlos  Antonio  Lopez  was  elected  President.  This 
office  he  held  until  his  death  in  1862  when  he  was  succeeded  by  his 
son,  Francisco,  both  men  being  really  dictators.  Unfortunately  the 
son,  who  had  visited  Europe,  conceived  the  idea  of  becoming  a 
second  Napoleon,  and  at  once  began  to  strengthen  and  discii^line  the 
army  and  to  fortify  the  country.  Uruguay,  as  usual  involved  in 
difficulties,  appealed  to  Lopez  for  assistance  against  Brazil.  Lopez, 
on  his  way  to  invade  that  country  crossed  Argentine  territory  al- 
though permission  had  been  refused.  L^ruguay  meanwhile  becom- 
ing reconciled  with  Brazil,  Paraguay  became  mvolved  in  a  war 
against  these  three  countries.  Presumably,  a  war  between  one  small 
counti*y  and  the  two  greatest  of  South  America  would  be  of  short 
duration.  Not  so!  Six  years  the  Avar  continued,  inflicting  upon 
the  little  country,  through  slaughter  and  disease,  loss  and  suffering 
unparalleled,  costing  the  allies  also  severe  distress.  No  more  heroic 
struggle  is  recorded  in  history.  Though  with  a  splendid  army  of 
fighters,  the  resources  of  Paraguay  gradually  diminished,  a  victory 
winning  no  lasting  good.  A  chain  barrier  fixed  across  the  river, 
with  fortifications,  long  kept  the  enemy  out.  Wooden  cannon  were 
constructed  from  the  hardwood  of  the  forest;  but  at  last  the  forts 
were  passed.  In  December,  1868,  after  a  severe  defeat,  Lopez 
abandoned  Asuncion  to  continue  his  struggle  in  the  interior.  De- 
feated in  August,  1869,  in  a  last  battle,  he  fled  farther  into  the  for- 
est, till  finally,  March,  1870,  his  horse  becoming  mired  in  a  swamp, 
he  was  killed  by  a  spear  thrust  after  refusmg  to  surrender. 


UP  THE  PARANA  RIVER  263 

Freed  at  last  from  his  ruthless  domination  the  country  had 
peace;  but  alas!  of  the  population  of  nearly  a  million  and  a  half 
six  years  earlier,  but  280,000  it  is  said  remained.  An  army  deci- 
mated is  supi)osed  to  suffer  terrible  loss.  Here  five-sixths  of  the 
entire  poj^ulation  perished,  the  cattle  and  afrricultural  resources  were 
destroj'ed.  Few  able-bodied  men  had  survived;  boys  even  to  the 
age  of  ten  had  been  impressed  into  the  army;  delit-ate  women  had 
been  compelled  to  work  in  the  fields  for  the  production  of  jrrain  to 
sustain  life,  and  had  suffered  many  unspeakable  hardships.  The 
struggle  of  the  Greeks  against  the  Persians  was  not  so  desperate, 
or  prolonged  to  so  bitter  an  end.  This,  moreover,  was  wholly  lui- 
necessaiy,  the  Dictator  Lopez  being  the  culpable  aggressor;  none  the 
less,  this  story  of  the  unparalleled  heroism  of  a  people  should  be 
more  familiar  to  the  world  outside. 

A  season  of  recuperation  and  freedom  followed,  but  many  yeai-s 
were  needed  for  the  nation  to  retrieve  in  population  and  resources 
the  position  it  held  before  the  Avar.  Not  yet  indeed  are  the  inhabit- 
ants so  numerous,  nor  have  they  learned  the  advantages  of  peace. 
No  longer  ago  than  November,  1911,  an  insurrection  broke  out, 
which  for  six  months  or  more  caused  devastation  and  bloodshed.  It 
is  to  be  hoped  that  peace  will  now  be  preserved. 

Curiously  enough,  the  people  of  Paraguay  i>ride  themselves  upon 
being  the  most  homogeneous  and  imited  of  all  the  South  American 
Republics,  as  they  are  among  the  best  fighters.  Not  that  they  are 
of  pure  Spanish  descent!  They  are  an  amalgamation  of  the  early 
Spanish  settlers  w-ith  the  Guaranis,  the  most  numerous  and  intelli- 
gent of  the  Indian  tribes  in  the  neighborhood.  An  illustration  of 
the  fallacy  of  certain  theories,  the  result  is  a  strong  and  handsome 
white  race,  preserving  with  Spanish  culture  and  virtues  the  warlike 
nature  of  the  Guaranis  and  unusual  virility  for  a  people  on  the 
edge  of  the  tropics. 

From  Posadas  across  the  river  to  Villa  Encarnaciun  the 
tlirough  trains  are  now  carried  on  large  ferry  boats  a.s 
planned.  The  journey  to  Asuncion  may  therefore  be  made 
by  through  ears  fi"oni  l^uonos  Aires,  the  road  having  rt'ccntly 
been  "widened,  and  iron  bridges  erected  over  the  various 
streams.  It  is  a  pretty,  rolling  country,  still  spars4'ly  set- 
tled, with  forests,  open  grass  lands,  and  occasional  small 
villages  and  farms. 

By  River  to  Asuncion.  Should  one  prefer  to  sail  up  the 
river  to  Asuncion  and  i-eturn  by  land,  whieli  on  .some  aeeount.s 
might  be  the  more  pleasurable,  one  would  drive  in  the  early 


264  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

morning  to  the  docks  of  the  Darsena  Sud,  whence  the  great 
steamers  of  the  IMihnnovich  Lines  ply  to  Montevideo  and  to 
the  north.  Also  there  are  boats  of  the  Lloyd  liraziliero  twice 
a  month.  Excellent  steamers  provide  every  essential  com- 
fort, and  the  person  for  whom  the  sea  is  too  boisterous  may 
find  pleasure  in  this  experience.  Unless  with  a  considerable 
party  one  should  be  something  of  a  linguist  to  enjoy  fully  the 
excursion,  as  the  crowd  will  be  cosmopolitan,  representing 
perhaps  a  dozen  different  countries. 

A  multitude  of  vessels  will  be  passed  ere  the  ship  sails 
freel}^  on  the  great  brown  stream,  so  like  the  sea  except  in 
color.  It  first  seems  like  a  river,  only  on  the  entrance  to  the 
Parana,  where  the  steamer  winds  in  and  out  among  low 
islands,  fringed  with  rushes  and  willows.  Several  ports  are 
passed  on  the  left  bank,  but  most  of  the  way  now,  as  far  as 
Corrientes,  the  stream  is  so  wide  that  only  one  bank  is  visible. 
The  water  swirls  along  2i/2  knots  an  hour.  There  are  vistas 
of  green  and  silver,  occasional  sails,  and  gradually  higher 
banks. 

Rosario.  The  first  call  is  made  next  morning  at  this,  the 
second  city  in  Argentina,  wdth  nearly  200,000  population, 
founded  by  Francisco  Godoy  in  1725,  but  having  small  pros- 
perity until,  in  1859,  General  Urquiza  made  it  a  port  of  entry. 
Ocean  steamers  drawing  24  feet  come  to  its  docks,  for  as  a 
grain  port  it  leads  Buenos  Aires.  The  citj^  is  situated  on 
bluffs,  one  says  60,  another,  300  feet  high.  An  expensive  sys- 
tem of  docks  has  been  arranged  to  suit  the  varying  height  of 
the  river.  Sacks  of  grain  are  sent  down  through  chutes  into 
the  holds  of  the  vessels.  The  river  here  is  said  to  be  20  miles 
wide,  though  with  numerous  islands  it  does  not  so  appear. 

Rosario  is  a  great  railway  center,  roads  leading  to  ]Men- 
doza  and  the  Trans-Andine,  to  Bolivia,  of  course  to  the  Capi- 
tal and  to  other  cities ;  it  is  expected  that  a  road  soon  will  ex- 
tend to  the  Amazon  basin.  Rosario  compares  with  Buenos 
Aires  somewhat  as  Chicago  with  New  York;  it  may  have  a 
similar  if  less  rapid  development.  On  higher  land,  with  wider 
streets  than  Buenos  Aires,  in  other  respects  it  is  naturally  in- 
ferior. There  are  several  hotels,  the  Grand,  Central,  Royal, 
Britannia,  and  Frascati  called  comfortable,  with  prices  more 
moderate,  as  they  should  be;  the  new  Victoria  Restaurant  is 


JUDICIARY    BUILDING,    UOsAUlO 


BESIDENCE    ON    AN    AUOENTINE    ESTANCIA. 


UP  THE  PARANA  RIVER  265 

good  enough  for  any  one.  There  are  excellent  public  build- 
ings, especially  a  magnificent  Custom  House,  the  Palace  of 
Justice,  a  busy  Bolsa  (Excluiiiu'e)  on  calle  Cordoba,  a  hand- 
some street  ^\'ith  good  shops;  a  beautiful  park,  boulevards,  and 
fine  dwellings.  Electric  cars  supply  adequate  service.  There 
are  many  English  here,  who  have  a  pleasant  Club;  also  there 
is  a   Strangers'   Club. 

Parana.  Above  Rosario  a  call  on  tlie  other  side  is  made  at 
Diamante,  then  one  at  Parana,  capital  of  the  Entre  Rios 
Province,  a  pleasant  towTi  of  30,000,  founded  in  1730  by  a 
colony  from  Santa  Fe.  On  the  Plaza  de  ]Mayo  is  an  imposing 
Government  Building,  and  a  Catliedral  whose  twin  white 
towers  are  seen  afar.  The  Plaza  Alvear  near  the  river  is  more 
beautiful,  with  graceful  palms  and  flowering  trees,  above 
which  rise  the  towers  of  a  fine  church,  the  San  ]\Iiguel.  The 
Paseo  Rivadavia,  a  broad,  shaded  promenade,  conducts  to  the 
Urquiza  Gardens.  Here  broad  walks  and  stone  stairways, 
among  blossoming  shrubs  and  flowers,  and  handsome  trees, 
lead  down  to  the  river  or  to  the  top  of  gentle  slopes,  which 
afford  a  panorama  of  the  winding  river  and  of  a  l)road 
expanse  of  rolling  country,  especially  admirable  after  the  flat 
plain,  A  large  new  theater  offers  entertainment.  We  have 
doubtless  all  heard  that  "If  wishes  were  horses,  beggars  might 
ride,"  and  in  Parana  they  really  do.  The  city  has  electric 
cars,  the  workshops  of  the  p]ntre  Rios  railway,  and  is  a  dis- 
tributing and  shipping  point  of  importance,  also  an  educa- 
tional center.  One  interested  in  this  phase  of  Argen- 
tine life  may  visit  the  School  Alberdi,  seven  miles  distant, 
a  Normal  College  of  Agriculture,  the  only  one  in  the  Republic. 
It  aims  to  furnish  all  the  learning  necessary  for  rural  man- 
agers, the  knowledge  requisite  for  the  administration  of  an 
estancia,  both  for  cattle  raising  and  agriculture,  to  give  in- 
formation as  to  suitable  exi)]oitatiou  of  especial  sites,  and, 
besides  furnishing  teehnieal  knowU'dge,  to  develop  initiative, 
perseverance,  and  ability  for  direction  and  organization.  The 
estate  covers  1000  acres,  cultivating  wheat,  flax,  corn,  oats, 
alfalfa,  ]iotatoes,  ])esi(]es  5000  trees  of  elioiee  varieties. 

Santa  Fe.  Opposite  Parana  is  Colastinc,  the  port  of  Santa 
Fc,  the  former  for  ocean  vessels,  sinaUer  river  steamers  oidy 
sailing  up  the  tributaiy,  Quiloaza,  to  the  capital  city,  seven 


266  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

years  older  than  Buenos  Aires.  This  also  was  founded  by  Juan 
de  Garay,  a  short  distance  from  the  larger  river,  as  in  those 
days  of  smaller  vessels  a  quieter  port  was  desirable  than  the  un- 
ruly Parana.  Once  a  rival  of  Rosario,  it  has  now  witli  a  i)opu- 
lation  of  50,000  been  left  far  in  the  rear. 

One  of  the  public  buildings,  the  Casa  de  Senadores,  is  a 
historic  place  where  in  troublous  times  five  National  conven- 
tions have  been  held,  1828-31-53-G0-66 ;  many  provincial 
assemblies  have  met  here  for  constitutional  reforms  of  the 
Province.  From  the  lofty  tower  there  is  a  fine  view  of  the 
city  and  surrounding  country.  Among  other  important 
buildings  are  schools,  a  Public  Asylum,  and  several  churches, 
the  Metropolitan  erected  1741  originally  with  a  single  nave, 
two  being  added  in  1834.  Some  historic  relics  within  are  four 
splendid  marble  basins  for  holy  water,  gift  of  the  Tyrant 
Rosas,  a  chasuble  of  richly  embroidered  satin  made  at 
Misiones  about  the  middle  of  the  last  century,  a  painting  from 
Cuzco,  of  date  1751,  representing  the  beheading  of  Saint 
Firmin,  a  Christ  sculptured  in  relief  on  a  block  of  fine  white 
marble  framed  in  Corinthian  bronze,  and  a  portrait  of  Saint 
Peter.  The  Church  of  St.  Domingo,  corner  3rd  of  February 
and  9th  of  July,  commenced  in  1786,  now  entirely  renewed, 
contains  a  silver  tabernacle  with  Byzantine  design,  a  diadem 
of  the  patriarch  Santo  Domingo,  and  other  valuable  relics. 
San  Francisco  Church,  Comercio  and  Ecuador  streets,  begun 
in  1652,  completed  1680,  has  relics  of  the  noted  general,  Stan- 
islas Lopez,  who  is  buried  under  the  cupola,  and  a  remarkable 
Jesus  of  Nazareth.  La  Merced,  on  Comercio  and  Gen.  Lopez 
streets,  built  in  1728,  contains  a  fine  oil  painting  of  the  Vir- 
gin. The  Cathedral  now  in  construction,  in  the  form  of  a 
Latin  cross,  will  be  a  monumental  work.  A  statue  of  San 
Martin,  like  the  one  in  B.  A.,  adorns  the  plaza  of  his  name,  the 
pedestal  representing  a  condor,  the  symbol  of  strength  and  of 
the  victories  of  the  great  General  contributing  to  the  Inde- 
pendence. A  municipal  theater  which  cost  $125,000  has  a 
handsomely  decorated  foyer.  The  hotels.  Grand,  Central,  etc., 
are  all  rather  poor. 

Higher  up  the  Parana,  towns  are  more  scattered  but  calls 
are  more  frequent.  Santa  Elena  is  a  town  with  a  large 
saladero,  a  meat-curing  factory.     At  La  Paz  wood  and  char- 


UP  THE  PARANA  RIVER  267 

coal  are  an  important  element  of  trade.  The  scenery  becomes 
more  pleasing.  A  severe  thunderstorm  may  all'ord  temporary 
excitement.  Crude  native  l)oats  floating  down  stream  are 
met,  bamboo  laden  schooners,  rafts  of  quebracho  timber. 
These,  too  heavy  to  float,  are  supported  by  common  wood 
placed  beneath.  The  ports  Bella  ]'is(a  and  rircujitacHo  are 
centers  of  the  quebracho  industry.  Tliis  remarkable  wood, 
the  name  meaning  liatchet-])reaker,  one  of  the  hardest  known 
species,  is  largely  used  for  raihvay  ties  throughout  Soutli 
America,  and  to  some  extent  for  furniture.  From  the  red 
colored  variety  tannin  is  extracted,  so  valuable  in  the  tan- 
ning of  hides.  This  was  first  effected  in  Prance  in  1874.  In 
1889  the  first  factoiy  for  tannin  manufacture  -was  erected  at 
Puerto  Casado,  Paraguay,  the  country  where  it  is  most  largely 
produced. 

Conientes,  founded  April  3,  1588,  with  25,000  jiopulation, 
is  an  important  and  busy  place,  exporting  rich  wttods  for 
building  and  cabinet  making,  sugar,  cotton,  and  tobacco, 
horses,  sheep,  and  cattle.  The  city,  three  days  from  Buenos 
Aires,  is  25  miles  from  the  junction  of  the  two  great  rivers, 
the  Alto  Parana  and  the  Paraguay,  and  from  the  frontier. 
To  visit  by  this  route  Posadas  and  the  Iguassu  Falls  one 
would  here  change  to  a  boat  of  lighter  draft,  as  rapids  below 
Posadas  allow'  passage  in  the  dry  season  of  steaimM-s  drawing 
no  more  than  three  feet. 

To  Asuncion  one  continues  in  the  same  steamer,  as  the 
Paraguay  River,  though  considerably  narrower,  permits 
steamers  of  12  feet  draft  up  to  that  city.  Floating  islands 
are  frequent,  orchids  and  parrots  ai'c  numerous;  alligators  in 
profusion  bask  in  the  sun,  disdaining  to  move  at  the  oeeasitjual 
crack  of  a  rifle  aimed  in  their  direction.  Islands  of  gi-een 
with  flow'ers  of  lavender  float  upon  the  stream.  lilossoms 
of  purple  and  of  white  depend  from  the  creepers  which  em- 
brace the  trees  of  the  forest.  Giant  scarlet  flowers  a  foot  in 
diameter  spring  from  a  green  cactus.     Human  life  is  rare. 

The  first  halt  in  Paraguay,  now  on  the  rigiit  bank,  wliilo 
Argentina  contiiuies  on  tlie  h-ft,  is  HHnianta  where  the  fa- 
miliar colors  red,  white,  and  blue,  appear  instead  of  tlie  Ar- 
gentine blue  and  wliite  (tnly.  This  being  a  garrison  town, 
low  barracks  are  visible  and  .soldiers  in  khaki.     A  conspicuous 


268  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

object  is  a  great  red  brick  cburcb,  battered  and  rent  from 
top  to  bottom,  a  mute  and  mournful  ^vitness  of  tbat  strange 
six  years'  war.  Attacked  by  tbe  allies,  the  defensive  army 
under  Col.  Martinez  made  long  and  suitable  resistance,  at 
length  retreating  to  the  church  which  was  bom])arded  from 
the  boats.  Surrender  was  at  last  compelled.  Lopez  at  this 
was  so  enraged  that,  as  Martinez  was  not  at  hand,  he  seized 
his  wife  and  dragged  her  along  with  his  army.  After  suf- 
fering frightful  tortures,  her  hair  mostly  torn  from  her  head, 
she  suffered  death  from  merciful  bullets.  That  she  was  a 
relative  of  Lopez  was  nothing  to  the  monster  of  cruelty  who 
caused  a  brother  to  be  shot  and  his  own  mother  to  be  flogged. 

The  country  on  the  left  with  low  banks  is  called  the  Chaco, 
first  the  Argentine,  and  above  Asuncion  the  Paraguayan ;  it 
is  a  wonderful  section  many  times  traversed,  but  not  yet 
thoroughly  explored;  with  the  region  to  the  north  one  of  the 
least  known  parts  of  the  earth.  From  the  highlands  of 
Bolivia  at  the  northwest  the  slope  is  extremely  gradual  caus- 
ing many  swamps.  With  some  poor  land  there  is  more  with 
rich  vegetation,  immense  forests,  wild  animals  of  many  kinds, 
including  boa  constrictors.  And  there  is  a  tale  of  a  creature 
called  ]\Iboyi  Jagwa,  dog  snake,  a  water  serpent  unknown  to 
science,  60  or  70  feet  long  with  a  head  like  a  dog  and  a  hooked 
tail.  The  Indians  all  agree  in  their  description  of  it,  and  one 
village  moved  to  another  part  of  the  country  because  one  of 
these  creatures  had  settled  near  by. 

Two  days  have  passed  on  the  clearer  waters  of  the  Para- 
guay when  a  strange  sight  appears  in  this  alluvial  land ;  some 
large  stone  buildings  and  great  boulders  of  red  stone  along  the 
bank,  then  a  rock}^  sugar  loaf  mountain,  not  very  high,  a  mere 
babe  of  a  mountain,  but  a  pleasing  sight  in  this  flat  land.  A 
different  country  is  here ;  red  cliffs,  honeycombed  with  caves, 
rise  from  the  shore.  One  more  corner,  and  the  city  of 
Asuncion  appears,  after  so  much  wilderness,  an  imposing 
display  of  white  walls,  roofs  and  spires,  facing  not  only  the 
stream  up  which  we  have  sailed,  but  the  broad  Pilcomayo, 
flowing  in  from  the  northwest,  which  marks  on  that  side  the 
boundary  between  Argentina  and  Paraguay. 

Asuncion,  capital  of  Paraguay,  is  called  by  one  English 
writer  the  cleanest,  nicest  town  on  the  river  above  Buenos 


ASUNCION  269 

Aires.  Situated  on  a  hillside  above  the  stream,  it  has  fine 
natural  drainage;  and  good  air  and  sunshine  make  it  a  healthy 
place,  to  which  many  come  from  the  south  to  recover  from 
tuberculosis.  A  thousand  miles  from  the  sea  it  is  only  203 
feet  above  the  ocean's  level.  "With  a  population  of  80,000  it 
is  still  a  quiet,  sleepy  town;  for  several  hours  at  noon  in  sum- 
mer the  streets  are  practically  deserted.  The  Gran  Hotel  del 
Paraguay  is  supplied  with  baths,  has  French  cooking,  and 
English  is  spoken.  A  Paraguayan  peso  is  said  to  be  worth  8 
cents  gold,  so  it  may  be  well  not  to  have  too  many. 

On  the  main  Plaza,  of  course,  is  the  Government  Palace, 
which  was  built  by  Lopez  just  before  the  war  and  is  now  u.sed 
for  the  offices  of  the  President  and  the  ^Members  of  his  Cab- 
inet; the  second  story  windows  afford  a  splendid  view;  here 
a  breeze  is  ever  ])lowing.  The  Xational  Libranj  deserves  a 
visit,  for  it  contains  the  finest  existing  collection  of  old  Span- 
ish documents  connected  with  the  history  of  the  Plata  region, 
and  Jesuit  ainials  from  1034  to  1600;  interesting  aceounts 
also  of  what  was  nearly  a  condition  of  State  Socialism  under 
Dr.  Prancia  and  the  elder  Lopez.  These  documents,  carried 
off  by  the  younger  Lopez  when  he  abandoned  the  capital, 
were  for  many  years  in  peasants'  houses  at  Piribe])uy,  where 
many  valuable  manuscripts  were  used  as  waste  paper. 

The  Mhsco  de  Bellas  Aries  boasts  of  at  least  one  Murillo 
and  half  a  dozen  other  paintings  which  would  adorn  any 
European  collection ;  portraits  too  of  many  historical  jier- 
sonages.  The  streets,  paved  with  stone  and  lined  with  wliite- 
washed  walls,  well  reflect  the  sun  ;  here  is  repeated  the  saying 
that  only  the  English  and  mad  dogs  walk  on  the  sunny  side 
of  the  street,  although  the  climate  even  in  sumiiu'r  is  not 
marked  by  extreme  heat.  From  Taoumbu,  the  summit  of  the 
ridge  above  the  town,  a  beaulil'ul  view  will  be  liad  of  long 
stretches  of  winding  river  up  an<l  down,  and  leagues  over  tiie 
Chaco  forests  opposite  as  well  as  the  rolling  eountry  to  the 
east.  The  forests  are  not  of  one  or  a  ft'W  kinds  of  trees. 
Out  of  a  number  of  16:?,  in  a  spaee  100  yards  si|uare,  llu-re 
were  47  (not  57)  varieties.  The  land  is  well  adapted  to 
intensive  cultivation,  on  account  of  the  great  variety  of  prod- 
ucts which  may  be  raised.  There  is  good  Imnting.  boar, 
jaguar,  monkeys,  red  wolf,  etc.,  and  a  great  field  for  scien- 


270  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

tists  in  both  vegetable  and  animal  worlds.  Also  there  is  a 
chance  for  the  treasure  seeker ;  for  when  Lopez  fled  from  the 
capital  he  took  with  him  seven  cartloads  of  specie,  at  least 
$5,()()0,()00.  One  cartload,  on  account  of  hot  pursuit,  was 
dumped  over  the  bank  into  a  river.  The  rest  was  carried  on 
and  buried  in  the  midst  of  a  swamp  where  it  was  marked  by 
a  wooden  cross.  This  cross  w^as  burned  in  a  prairie  fire, 
Lopez  and  all  of  his  men  perished,  the  records  were  lost ;  but 
one  man  is  reported  as  living  who  followed  the  wheel  tracks 
to  the  end.  However,  the  money  obviously  belonged  to  the 
Government  of  Paraguay  and  if  found,  which  is  improbable, 
a  good  portion  at  least  would  have  to  be  forfeited  to  the 
Government. 

Every  one  who  comes  to  Asuncion  will  wish  to  purchase  a 
bit  of  Nanduty  lace,  as  it  is  called,  a  specialty  of  Paraguayan 
handiwork,  some  of  it  very  fine  and  beautiful.  It  bears  re- 
semblance in  patterns  to  Mexican  drawn  work ;  it  is  not,  how- 
ever, drawn,  but  is  genuine  lace.  It  may  be  purchased  also 
in  Buenos  Aires;  perhaps  sometimes  in  Montevideo,  but  none 
could  be  found  there  in  1912  in  spite  of  a  strenuous  hunt, 
nor  in  Rio  either.  The  prices  are  moderate,  and  no  man  need 
hesitate  about  purchasing  a  piece.     No  woman  will. 

Another  specialty  of  Paraguay  is  the  yerha  mate,  some- 
times called  Paraguay  tea,  which  is  raised  also  in  neighbor- 
ing parts  of  Argentina  and  Brazil.  This  herb.  Ilex  para- 
guayensis,  or  South  American  holly,  grows  as  a  bush  or  tree 
resembling  the  orange.  The  leaves,  which  are  bright  green, 
are  used  to  make  a  tea,  in  these  three  countries  very  popular 
with  natives,  and  with  many  immigrants ;  it  is  being  gradually 
introduced  into  Europe.  The  leaf  is  smoked  and  powdered. 
The  beverage  is  made  by  putting  some  of  this  powder  into  a 
small  gourd  called  a  mate,  and  pouring  on  boiling  water. 
After  it  has  steeped  a  while,  flavored  with  lemon  or  sugar, 
it  is  drunk  through  a  homhilla,  a  tube  enlarged  at  the  end  to  a 
sort  of  oval  ball,  with  small  holes  which  admit  the  liquid,  but 
are  supposed  to  keep  out  the  powdered  tea.  The  natives  and 
others  drink  this  on  all  occasions.  Taken  in  moderation  it 
is  very  wholesome,  of  more  or  less  the  same  class  as  tea  and 
cofl^ee,  but  containing  less  tannin  than  either;  of  caffein  or 
thein  it  has  less  than  tea  but  about  the  same  as  coffee.     It 


IGUASSU  FALLS  AND  PARAGUAY  271 

does  not  irritate  but  soothes  the  nervous  system,  and  is  lii-ne- 
ficial  to  tlie  digestion  unless  used  to  exci-ss.  Wht-n  used 
instead  of  food  it  becomes  injurious.  Thus  a  gentleman, 
Scotch,  who  had  been  in  the  habit  of  taking  12  or  14  cups  in 
the  morning  and  eating  nothing  until  noon,  at  length  found 
himself  in  a  l)ad  way.  Placed  by  his  doctor  on  a  sensible  diet, 
a  good  breakfast  with  only  2  or  3  cups  of  tnatc,  he  found  his 
health  soon  restored.  It  is  estimated  that  in  South  America, 
despite  the  great  coffee  production,  10,000,000  persons  drink 
mate.  It  is  sold  in  England,  France,  Germany,  and  other 
countries  of  Europe,  the  United  States  being  slowest  in  learn- 
ing to  appreciate  its  excellence.  In  1909  more  than  2  million 
pounds  were  produced.  Plantations  are  now  being  set  out 
and  its  production  and  consumption  are  certain  to  increase 
amazingly. 


CHAPTER  XXVI 

URUGUAY 

The  country  of  Uruguay  has  the  distinction  of  being  the 
youngest,  and  the  smallest  in  area,  of  all  of  the  South  Amer- 
ican Republics.  It  must  not,  however,  be  inferred  that  it  is 
therefore  the  most  backward.  On  the  contrary,  its  financial 
reputation  is  of  the  best,  its  bonds  selling  in  Europe  at  par 
and  above,  while  the  population  to  the  square  mile  is  greater 
than  that  of  any  other  country  in  South  America.  Although 
small,  indeed,  by  the  side  of  its  neighbors,  Brazil  and  Argen- 
tina, it  is  twice  the  size  of  Portugal  and  about  the  same  size  as 
New  England  combined  with  Maryland ;  a  trifle  smaller  than 
the  Brazilian  State  of  Sao  Paulo,  or  than  our  State  of 
Nebraska. 

History 

While  the  veiy  first  landing  in  the  Plata  River  section  was 
naturally  made  in  this  country,  Juan  Diaz  de  Solis  with  fifty  of  his 
followers  here  going  ashoi'e  in  1515,  unfortunately  to  meet  death  at 
the  hands  of  hostile  Indians,  the  permanent  settlement  of  Monte- 
video was  delayed  until  December  24,  1726.  The  Charrua  Indians 
inhabiting  the  country  seem  to  have  been  a  particularly  fierce  tribe, 
and  several  attempts  at  settlement  in  various  places  resulted  dis- 
astrously. In  the  seventeenth  century,  a  number  of  colonies  had 
been  established  by  the  Franciscans  and  Jesuits,  including  one  at 
Colonia,  which  site  with  the  countiy  in  general,  at  that  time  called 
the  Banda  Oriental,  was  long  a  bone  of  contention  between  the 
Spanish  and  the  Portuguese. 

After  the  Junta  of  Buenos  Aires  had  in  1810  established  its  rule 
within  its  own  borders,  Montevideo  was  for  a  short  time  the  seat 
of  the  Spanish  Viceroy;  but  the  people  of  Uruguay  soon  became 
eager  for  independence  and  under  the  leadership  of  Artigas  a  war 
was  waged  for  years,  sometimes  against  the  Spanish,  then  against 
the  Portuguese,  and  even  the  Porteiios  of  Buenos  Aires.  After 
the  destruction  of  the  Spanish  fleet  by  Admiral  Brown,  Montevideo, 
June  20,  1814,  surrendered  to  the  besieging  army,  and  tlie  Span- 
ish   power   on    the   River   Plata    was    ended.     General    Alvear   of 

272 


URUGUAY  273 

Buenos  Aires,  for  a  short  time  in  command,  presently  withdrew 
leaving  the  city  in  tiie  hands  of  one  of  Artijras'  lieutenants,  the 
General  remaining  in  camp  on  the  Uruguay  River.  In  181(j  the 
Portuguese  from  Biazil  invaded  the  country,  and  Artigas  was 
finally  obliged  to  take  refuge  in  Paraguay. 

When  in  1S2-1  the  power  of  Spain  was  finally  destroyed  on  the 
whole  continent,  Uruguay  alone  was  desliiute  of  independence. 
In  the  midst  of  rejoicing  at  Buenos  Aires  over  the  victory  of 
Aj-acucho,  Lavalleja,  who  had  earlier  distinguished  himself  against 
the  Spaniards,  and  other  exiles  from  Uruguay  were  moved  to  free 
their  own  country  from  foreign  dominion.  It  was  a  small  band  of 
thirty-three  men,  Treinta  y  Tres,  now  a  popular  name  in  Uruguay, 
that  set  out  from  Buenos  Aires  for  the  invasion  of  that  country. 
Having  crossed  the  Uruguay  Kivcr,  they  soon  obtained  forty  re- 
cruits and  after  a  brief  skirmish  with  the  Portuguese  forces  took 
the  town  of  Dolores.  General  Rivera,  sent  against  Lavalleja,  for- 
sook the  Brazilian  service  and  with  his  men  joined  the  patriots. 
Soon  the  whole  of  Uruguay  was  in  arms,  an  independent  govern- 
ment was  established  at  Florida.  The  Portuguese  fleet  was  later 
defeated  by  the  Argentine  Admiral  Brown,  and  a  series  of  victories 
culminating  in  the  battle  of  Ituzaingo,  which  made  the  expulsion  of 
the  Portuguese  seem  inevitable,  incited  Lavalleja  in  October,  1.S27, 
to  proclaim  himself  Dictator,  though  in  July,  1S2.S,  he  voluntarily 
resigned  the  ollice.  In  August  both  Argentina  and  Brazil  ac- 
knowledged the  independence  of  L'ruguay  and  on  May  1,  IS'JO,  the 
national  authorities  made  a  formal  entiy  into  Montevideo. 

After  a  constitution  had  been  adopted,  July  IS,  1S30,  the  Na- 
tional Assembly  in  October  elected  Rivera  President,  to  the  great 
disgust  of  Lavalleja  who  at  once  plotted  against  the  government. 
Rivera,  however,  twice  drove  him  from  the  country  into  Brazil 
and  served  his  term  of  four  years.  The  second  President  was 
General  Oribe,  one  of  the  Thirty-three,  who  combiiu'il  wilii  Lavalleja 
against  Rivera  and,  with  the  assistance  of  the  Argentine  Dictator 
Rosas,  defeated  him  in  a  battle  which  was  of  especial  historical 
importance  from  the  fact  that  the  red  and  wiiite  colors  were  used 
to  distinguish  the  forces,  ever  since  emblems  of  bitter  strife  as 
the  badges  of  the  two  parties  called  Colnrados,  Reds,  and  BUmcos, 
Whites,  the  former  that  of  Rivera,  the  latter  of  Oribe. 

Fighting  was  almost  continuous  until  the  fall  of  Rosas  in  I^^-IL 
Giro  became  the  fourth  President  in  IS'/J  but  in  1S.')3  revolts  began 
again.  The  deaths  of  Rivera  and  Tiavalleja  about  this  time  had 
no  effect  in  promoting  jicnce.  Strife  continued  luitil  in  February, 
ISfio,  Flores,  having  obtained  the  active  su])port  of  Brazil  and  en- 
tered Montevideo,  was  made  Dictator  of  the  Republic.     Then  littlo 


274  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

Paraguay,  previously  asked  to  interfere,  jealous  of  Brazil's  power, 
continued  the  light.  And  Paraguay,  with  her  army  of  80,000  men, 
might  have  been  equal  to  any  one  of  the  countries  alone.  During 
this  war  Flores,  who  was  of  the  Colorado  party,  was  assassinated 
in  Montevideo,  a  terrible  visitation  of  cholera  occurred  in  1868,  and 
a  financial  crisis  that  ruined  thousands  in  1869.  Troubles  were  in- 
cessant and  up  to  the  present  time  hardly  a  single  President  has 
had  an  entirely  peaceful  term.  That  after  this  prolonged  condition 
of  turbulence,  the  Kepublic  shows  so  remarkable  a  degree  of  devel- 
opment and  i^rosperity  is  wonderful  indeed. 

As  to  the  country  in  general,  it  may  be  said  that  while  it 
possesses  no  striking  features  such  as  lofty  mountains  or  great 
waterfalls,  it  is  a  beautifully  diversified  region,  with  no  flat 
or  desert  land,  but  with  low  ridges,  valleys,  and  rolling  plains, 
in  some  parts  well  wooded.  It  is  admirably  adapted  for  graz- 
ing and  agricultural  products.  The  climate  is  healthful  and 
delightful,  the  population,  numbering  about  1,300,000,  is  more 
homogeneous  than  in  most  of  the  Republics,  and  forms  an 
enterprising  and  progressive  nation. 

Montevideo 

Hotels.  Pyramides,  Sarandi  corner  Ituzaingo;  Grand  Hotel 
Lanaita,  Sarandi  325;  Central,  25  de  Mayo,  245;  Oriental,  Solis, 
corner  Piedras;  Palacio,  Calle  Florida;  Globe,  25  de  Agosto  and 
Colon.     In  the  suburbs,  Parque  Urbano,  and  Pocitos. 

Excellent  electric  cars  and  service.  Fare  in  center  of  the  city, 
4  cents,  farther  out  6,  8,  10,  and  to  Colon,  14  cts.  Carriage  fare 
$1.00  or  $1.50  an  hour.  Post  Office,  Sarandi  207.  Postage,  letters 
to  United  States  or  Europe,  8  cents;  cards,  2  cents. 

Uruguay  dollars,  pesos,  are  worth  a  little  more  than  the  Ameri- 
can ;  $10.00  United  States  currency  equals  $9.66  Uruguay.  Or  $1.00 
Uruguay  equals  about  $1.04  of  our  money. 

The  office  of  the  United  States  Minister  is  on  the  18  de  Julio, 
221,  that  of  the  American  Consul  in  Treinta  y  Tres,  53.  The  Brit- 
ish Legation  is  at  445,  25  de  Mayo,  the  Consulate  at  20  Parana. 

On  landing  at  Montevideo  a  carriage  may  be  taken  to  the 
hotel  preferred,  or  decision  reserved  until  they  have  been 
inspected.  No  one  in  the  center  of  the  city  is  pre-eminent  but 
several  will  be  found  satisfactory  except  to  the  hyper-critical. 
First  may  be  mentioned  the  Pyramides  Hotel  on  Sarandi  at 


MOXTEVIDEO  275 

the  corner  of  Ituzainf;6,  near  the  Plaza  Constitiu-ion,  liiglily 
spoken  of.  Better  known  is  the  Grand  Hotel  Lanatta  far-ing 
the  same  plaza;  the  Oriental  Hotel,  the  Central,  the  Colon,  tlie 
Florida,  are  all  available,  close  to  the  center  of  the  city. 

A  clean,  homelike,  and  agreeable  city  is  ]\Iontivideo,  most 
attractive  as  a  place  of  residence,  and  preferred  l)y  many  to 
the  great  metropolis  farther  up  the  river,  with  its  million 
more  inhabitants.  About  the  size  of  our  own  capital,  Wash- 
ington, it  is  large  enough  for  all  practical  purj)0ses,  and  is  the 
home  of  a  wide-awake  community.  Several  days  should  be 
devoted  to  the  various  objects  of  interest,  which  include  parks, 
suburban  and  seaside  resorts  of  great  beauty  and  elegance. 

Sight-seeing  may  be  commenced  with  a  stroll  in  the  center 
of  the  city,  after  which  excursions  by  car  or  carriage  will 
be  in  order.  As  in  Buenos  Aires,  the  cars  are  conveniently 
numbered,  which  renders  the  service  especially  valuable  to 
strangers. 

Plaza  Constitucion,  sometimes  called  the  Matriz,  is  a  good 
place  to  begin.  Of  the  twelve  large  plazas,  this,  with  several 
others,  has  a  pretty  garden  occupying  the  center.  On  the  east 
side  is  the  Cahildo,  a  quaint  old  building  now  used  for  the 
Legislative  Assemblies,  the  only  building  of  historic  impor- 
tance in  the  city,  which  is  practically  all  new.  Opposite  is  the 
Cathedral  with  tow^ers  133  feet  high.  To  the  handsome  in- 
terior, paintings  and  other  decorations  have  recently  been 
added,  and  there  is  a  sweet-toned  organ.  On  the  soutii  side 
next  to  the  Lanatta  Hotel  is  the  Uruguay  Club,  which  is  hand- 
somely housed,  its  imposing  salon  for  receptions  and  balls  the 
occasional  rendezvous  of  the  elite  of  the  city.  On  the  north 
side  of  the  plaza  is  the  home  of  the  Eitfjlish  Chih. 

On  the  Plaza  lnd< pcndcncia  not  far  away,  reached  by  the 
calle  Sarandi,  is  the  Government  Palace  containing  the  oftices 
of  the  President  and  Ministers,  jiresently  to  be  superseded  ])y 
a  splendid  structure  on  the  principal  avenue,  IS  de  Julio. 
Just  oft"  the  corner  of  this  plaza  is  the  Solis  Thtatir,  with  a 
handsome  Ionic  front,  a  rather  ancient  building  for  .Mon- 
tevideo, more  than  fifty  years  old,  its  right  wing  housing  the 
]\Iuseum.  The  theater  which  has  recently  been  remodeleil, 
now  seating  over  'M)00,  is  one  of  the  line  establishments  of 
South  America,  though  rivaled  in  Montevideo  by  the  newer 


276  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

theater  Urquiza,  corner  of  Ancles  and  Mercedes,  which  was 
inaugurated  by  Bernliardt  in  1905.  In  one  or  the  other  of 
these  have  appeared  nearly  all  of  the  most  noted  European 
artists,  at  least  of  the  Latin  races,  stars  of  the  drama  and 
of  the  opera  both.  The  people  are  great  lovers  of  the  theater 
and  more  than  2000  performances  are  given  in  a  single  year 
with  about  two  million  spectators. 

The  Museum  includes  a  considerable  collection  of  specimens 
of  the  natural  history  and  geology  of  the  country;  many 
relics  of  the  native  Indian  tribes  now  altogether  extinct,  such 
as  hundreds  of  stone  bolos  and  other  weapons,  with  primitive 
utensils;  souvenirs  of  the  colonial  wars,  and  some  paintings 
by  artists  of  Uruguay  and  Europe. 

The  new  Legislative  Palace  on  the  Avenida  Agraciada  is  a 
magnificent  building  with  two  fine  plazas  in  the  front  and  the 
rear,  and  space  on  all  sides.  The  basement  will  contain  fire- 
proof chambers  for  the  archives,  and  rooms  for  lighting,  heat, 
and  service.  The  ground  floor  has  a  great  vestibule  and  a 
corridor  55  feet  wide  extending  to  the  rear  of  the  building, 
crossed  by  three  others  10  or  12  feet  wide.  Near  the  entrance 
are  quarters  for  the  guard  of  honor,  and  farther  in  are  rooms 
for  police,  telephone  and  telegraph,  wardrobes,  and  other  pur- 
poses. On  the  front  a  great  marble  staircase  55  feet  wide 
leads  up  from  the  ground  to  the  entrance  on  the  main  floor. 
Pedestals  with  costl}'  bronze  statues  are  designed  to  divide  the 
staircase  into  three  sections.  Two  ramps,  one  on  each  side  of 
the  stairway,  permit  the  ascent  of  vehicles  to  the  main  en- 
trance in  front  of  a  large  hall,  Pasos  Perdidos,  55  feet  %nde 
and  160  long,  embellished  with  columns,  and  with  a  staircase 
leading  to  the  floor  above.  The  two  large  chambers  for  the 
Senate  and  the  Representatives,  one  on  each  side,  are  66  feet  in 
diameter  and  two  stories  in  height,  with  galleries  for  the  Press 
and  the  public.  In  the  front  of  the  building  are  salons  for 
the  President  and  the  Ministers,  with  private  rooms,  and  at  the 
sides  and  back  are  rooms  for  the  officials  of  Congress.  The 
design  was  one  of  the  Argentine  architect,  Meano,  modified 
to  suit  local  taste  and  conditions.  The  building,  which  was 
to  cost  $2,000,000,  is  expected  to  be  complete  in  1916. 

Other  interesting  buildings  are  those  of  the  University, 
the  School  of  Arts  and  Trades,  and  the  Agricultural  Institute. 


MONTEVIDEO  277 

There  are  two  groups  of  new  University  buildings,  erected  at 
a  cost  of  $2,000,000;  the  one  on  the  Ave.  18  de  Julio  contain- 
ing the  central  oftiees  of  administration  with  tiie  Schools  of 
Law  and  Commerce,  the  other,  the  several  buildings  contain- 
ing the  Medical  School,  the  Chemistry  Building,  and  housings 
for  the  Institute  of  IIy<i:iene,  Physiology,  etc.  Tiie  Adminis- 
tralion  Building  occupirs  an  entire  block  between  Caiixua  and 
Yaro,  where  formerly  was  the  School  of  Arts  and  Trades. 
Of  classical  Italian  architecture,  with  two  stories  and  a  high 
basement,  it  contains  ten  class  rooms  seating  from  50  to  100 
each,  two  halls  seating  200,  and  one  accommodating  800. 
There  is  a  law  library  of  30,000  volumes,  one  of  the  best  in 
South  America,  while  for  the  present  the  National  Library 
also  is  in  the  building.  The  large  high  school  occupies  a 
handsome  structure  covering  most  of  the  block  south,  facing 
on  Lavalleja,  It  is  well  litted  up  with  laboratories,  gym- 
nasium with  baths  and  rest  room,  class  rooms  light  and  airy, 
and  with  all  modern  scholarly  and  hygienic  equipment. 

The  Medical  ScJiool  occupies  the  block  formerly  the  Plaza 
Sarandi,  being  surrounded  l)y  the  streets  Uruiaiayana,  La- 
dislao  Terra,  Yatay  and  ]\Iarelino  Sosa,  not  far  from  the  new 
Congressional  Palace.  There  are  three  separate  buildings 
which  are  arranged  and  fitted  up  in  a  style  which  would 
meet  the  demands  of  such  an  institution  anywhere.  The  cen- 
tral part  of  the  main  building  is  occupied  by  the  various 
offices,  council  chamber,  library,  and  reading  room,  a  hall 
seating  1000,  etc. ;  one  wing  is  devoted  to  the  Institute  of 
Physiology,  the  other  to  that  of  Anatomy.  The  Department 
of  Chemistry  has  a  fine  building  on  Ladislao  Terra  and  Yatay, 
the  Department  of  Hygiene,  one  on  Ladislao  Terra  aii<l 
Uruguayana. 

Other  Schools  which  mij,'ht  be  connected  with  the  Tnivi'r- 
sity  l)ut  which  have  a  distinct  organization  are  the  Agricul- 
tural and  the  Veterinary.  The  latter  is  a  little  farllier  out 
on  one  of  the  principal  avenues  of  the  outer  city,  the  Lar- 
rauaga,  with  grounds  covering  30  acres.  It  will  ultimately 
include  a  number  of  buildings  for  the  various  departments, 
Laboratories,  Clinics,  Autopsies,  etc.,  but  at  i>resent  is  con- 
fined to  laboratories,  class  rooms,  and  hall  for  clinics.  The 
School  of  Agriculture  is  a  fine  large  building  in  the  sulmrb 


278  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

of  Sayago,  45  minutes  by  electrics  from  the  center  of  the 
city,  fare  10  cents.  The  edifice  contains  excellent  laboratories, 
class  rooms,  and  general  offices,  and  is  doing  an  important 
work  of  great  value  to  the  country.  The  four-story  building 
near  the  harbor  landing,  formerly  occupied  by  the  University, 
is  now  used  as  an  Engineering  School. 

A  Pedagogical  Museum  of  considerable  interest  to  one  with 
some  knowledge  of  educational  problems  and  work,  is  on  the 
north  side  of  the  Plaza  Libertad  next  to  the  Athenaeum,  an 
institution  of  much  literary  and  scientific  importance  in 
]\Iontevideo. 

Another  educational  edifice  whicli  some  may  be  glad  to  visit 
is  one  which  houses  both  the  Military  Academy  and  the  Naval 
School.  The  situation  is  a  convenient  one  on  the  edge  of  the 
city  with  grounds  covering  30  acres,  yet  only  15  minutes  by 
electric  car  from  the  center  of  the  town.  The  building  with 
a  facade  250  feet  long  fronts  on  Ave.  Garibaldi,  but  sets 
back  60  feet  allowing  space  for  a  pretty  garden.  In  the  left 
wing  are  the  class  rooms  of  the  Military  School,  in  the  right 
those  of  the  Naval.  On  the  next  floor  are  dormitories,  baths, 
etc.  In  the  center  are  rooms  common  to  both,  a  casino,  fenc- 
ing-room, and  a  large  hall  for  festal  occasions.  Above  is  a 
tower  with  steel  cupola  for  the  Astronomical  Observatory.  In 
the  rear  are  great  depots,  naval  and  military,  a  large  gym- 
nasium, a  swimming  tank,  100  by  150  feet,  stables,  hospitals,  a 
riding  course,  athletic  field,  etc.  On  the  inside,  covered  gal- 
leries permit  passage  from  one  building  to  another  in  the  rain ; 
the  U  shaped  constructions  surround  a  large  space  orna- 
mented with  trees.  There  is  excellent  ventilation  in  the  main 
building,  windows  on  both  sides,  so  that  in  class  and  in  the 
infirmary  each  student  enjoys  much  more  air  space  than  the 
highest  amount  prescribed. 

The  School  of  Arts  and  Trades  in  San  Salvador  street,  be- 
tween Minas  and  Magallanes,  may  be  reached  by  cars  36  and 
46. 

Other  institutions  which  may  be  visited  are  the  Peniten- 
tiary, the  Markets,  and  the  Cemeteries.  The  first  may  not 
interest  every  tourist;  but  if  one  desires  to  see  a  model  con- 
struction of  this  category',  arranged  according  to  the  most 
modern  tenets  of  penal  science  and  of  hygiene,  the  oppor- 


MONTEVIDEO  279 

tunity  here  presented  should  be  seized.  It  lias  a  fine  situation 
near  the  river  on  Punta  Carreta  (30  minutes  by  Car  No.  35, 
fare  8  cts.),  especially  open  to  the  southeast  winds  well  venti- 
lating courts  and  interiors.  Tiie  reetanjijular  i)lan  was  pre- 
ferred to  the  ratlial.  l>aek  of  the  administration  building 
is  the  entrance  to  the  prison  j)roper,  which  is  surrounded  by 
a  great  wall  nearly  40  feet  high.  Here  a  military  guard  is 
placed.  On  one  side  of  a  central  corridor  is  tlie  kitchen  and 
bakery,  on  the  other,  the  laundi-y.  Separated  by  a  large 
court  from  these  is  the  prison  house  with  384  well  lighted 
cells,  each  13  feet  long,  8  wide,  and  over  10  feet  high,  fur- 
nished with  iron  folding  bed,  book  shelf,  bench,  and  porcelain 
bowl  and  se;it.  Oix'ning  on  a  coi'iidor  20  feet  wide,  the  cells 
are  arranged  in  4  stories,  to  which  lead  marble  and  iron  stair- 
cases and  elevators.  Fifty  baths  are  at  the  service  of  the  pris- 
oners, who  may  choose  either  waiiii  water  or  sea  water  for 
their  ablutions.  Workshops  of  eight  classes  are  provided  for 
the  convicts:  iron  and  tin  work,  carpentry,  broom  and  shoe 
making,  printing,  and  book  binding.  Two  patios,  160  by  220 
feet,  afford  space  for  recreation,  and  there  is  room  within  the 
enclosure  for  two  more  prison  houses  if  at  any  time  they  are 
needed. 

Every  one  likes  to  see  Markets  if  not  prisons.  Of  these 
there  are  four,  most  important,  the  new  market  Agricola  for 
wholesale  trade,  built  of  iron  except  for  the  base  wall,  and 
roofed  with  glass  according  to  the  Dion  system,  the  const  ruc- 
tion covering  65,000  square  feet  with  a  central  height  of  72 
feet.  Provision  is  made  for  the  entrance  and  circulation 
of  carts;  four  galleries  45  feet  wide  surrounding  the  large  cen- 
tral open  space  provide  shelter  for  attendants  and  for  the 
service  of  the  market. 

Of  the  four  cemeteries,  tiie  (U  niral  at  the  foot  of  Yaguai-on 
street  is  called  the  best;  the  Bucro,  which  is  the  largest,  may  be 
reached  by  Car  30,  and  by  Car  3S  which  runs  to  the  suburb 
Union,  passing  the  Buceo  and  the  l)eautiful  lirllish  Cemetery 
adjoining.  All  of  these  are  finely  situated  on  a  blulT  almve 
the  water.  They  are  adorned  with  trees  and  flowers,  and  con- 
tain many  fine  monuments,  some  of  whicii  are  sculptun-d  by 
noted  artists. 

The   Parks  and  Watering   Places,  most    iini);)rtant    features 


280  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

of  Montevideo  life,  have  perhaps  been  left  too  long ;  they  are 
attractions  of  the  highest  rank  which  no  one  should  overlook, 
however  short  his  stay.  The  largest  and  finest  park  is  called 
the  Prado,  which  contains  also  the  National  Botanical  Gar- 
dens. One  may  here  roam  for  hours  among  immense  mag- 
nificent trees,  half  a  century  old,  sheltering  smaller  palms  and 
bamboos,  flowering  shrubs,  and  beautiful  gardens;  here  too 
are  lakes  and  grottoes,  vegetation  of  cool  and  of  warmer 
climes,  a  region  more  delightful  on  account  of  the  hills  and 
hollows  with  which  it  is  diversified,  in  pleasing  contrast  to 
the  flatness  of  the  Argentine  shore.  The  park,  which  is  sur- 
rounded by  villas  and  chalets,  is  approached  by  three  fine 
avenues  and  may  be  reached  by  three  lines  of  cars,  2,  44, 
and  47  (8  cts.  fare)  in  25  minutes. 

A  little  nearer  the  city  and  on  the  other  side,  close  to  the 
ocean,  is  Par  que  Vrhano,  served  in  a  ride  of  20  minutes  by 
six  lines  of  cars,  Nos.  5,  6,  7,  33,  36,  and  46,  with  4  cts.  fare. 
This  is  a  most  popular  recreation  ground,  a  large  park  with 
trees,  flowers,  lakes,  pretty  bridges,  etc.,  a  great  circular  ave- 
nue, and  a  theater  of  novelties.  Near  the  entrance  on  the  side 
towards  the  sea  I  saw  a  pavilion  where  popcorn  was  made  and 
sold  by  a  fine  young  man  and  his  happ}'  looking  wife,  both 
from  the  United  States.  Popcorn  is  a  new  and  popular  ar- 
ticle of  food  for  the  natives;  business  was  good,  the  young 
couple  enjoyed  the  place  and  the  people,  though  expecting 
to  come  home  some  day;  but  already,  as  I  hear,  they  have 
vanished.  The  seashore  in  front  is  called  Playa  Ramirez,  a 
fine  bathing  resort.  On  the  sands  stand  a  multitude  of  little 
bath-houses  on  wheels,  which  a  horse  draws  out  into  the  water, 
thus  permitting  less  display  of  gay  bathing  costumes  or  of 
bathers  than  on  our  own  beaches,  a  custom  with  obvious  ad- 
vantages. The  men  generally  go  in  on  one  side  of  the  iron 
pier,  the  women  and  children  on  the  other. 

Close  to  the  Park  and  the  Beach  is  an  imposing  hotel  and 
casino,  four  stories  high,  the  Vrhano,  with  300  rooms,  a  great 
dining  hall,  and  other  salons,  called  the  finest  and  most  lux- 
urious hotel  in  South  America.  It  was  erected  at  a  cost  of 
$600,000,  and  since  it  was  opened  in  1909  it  has  been  a  point 
of  attraction  to  many  of  the  best  Ai'gentine  society,  as  well  as 
to  the  people  of  Uruguay. 


?(,IL1.-)      lllKAild. 


GOVJiKNMfcM    l'AU\CE 


MONTEVIDEO  281 

Pocitos,  a  little  farther  out,  is  another  much  frequented 
bathing  resort.  The  Thursday  and  Sunday  concerts  at  both 
beaches  attract  thousands.  In  the  vicinity  are  many  fine 
residences.  A  splendid  esplanade  along  the  shore  leads  to 
Trouville,  another  beach  beyond.  Pocitos,  tlie  most  fasliion- 
able  of  the  resorts,  also  has  a  hotel  of  the  first  rank. 

On  the  port  side  of  the  city  many  improvements  have  been 
made  and  more  are  planned.  Along  the  south  side  of  the 
promontory  a  fine  esi)lanade  is  to  be  constructed  to  extend 
also  along  the  east  sliore  to  Kamirez  and  Pocitos  in  the  man- 
ner of  the  Avenida  Beira  j\Iar  at  Rio  de  Janeiro.  Pocitos, 
a  30  minutes'  run,  is  served  by  the  cars  31  and  37,  fare  8  cts. 

The  Zoological  (larch  n  at  Villa  Dolores  (cars  3S  and  30, 
time  20  minutes,  fare  8  cts.),  is  a  private  property,  but  is  open 
to  the  public  for  a  small  fee  Sundays,  Thursdays,  and  Feast 
days.  In  addition  to  a  considerable  collection  of  ani- 
mals, unusually  extensive  in  the  line  of  birds  and  domestic 
fowls,  there  are  various  artistic  features,  artificial  grottoes, 
lakes,  watei'falls,  imitation  of  classical  ruins,  etc.  A  rather 
original  feature  is  a  little  cemetery  of  various  animals,  their 
graves  marked  by  life-size  sculptures:  lions,  dogs,  a  rabbit, 
a  cock,  even  a  huge  anaconda,  a  curious  collection.  The 
entrance  fees  are  devoted  to  charitable  institutions  of  the  city. 

The  Hippodrome  and  horse  races,  if  not  quite  equaling  the 
grand  display  at  Buenos  Aires,  are  in  excellent  style;  the 
accommodations  are  elegant  and  luxurious,  and  the  races 
under  the  direction  of  the  local  Jockey  Club  are  fashionable 
events  where  many  notable  horses  have  appeared.  The 
receipts  are  in  the  neighborhood  of  ii^2,000,000  annually,  the 
prizes  in  1910  were  over  $400,()()0.  Tiie  Hippodrome,  estab- 
lished in  1888  at  the  sulmrb  ]\larorias,  may  be  reached  by 
Cars  13,  17,  and  51  after  a  45  minutes'  ride,  for  the  sum  of 
10  cts.  Races  occur  on  days  of  fiesta  from  the  first  Sunday 
in  JMarcli  to  the  middle  of  January.  During  the  short  vaca- 
tion the  horses  rest  and  take  si'a-baths  at  Buceo  bt>ach  near 
by.  At  the  gala  events,  when  15,000  people  may  lie  present, 
elegant  toilets  are  much  in  evidence,  with  many  automobiles 
and  carriages.  The  betting  is  said  not  to  be  carried  to  such 
an  excess  as  in  some  other  places,  practiced  not  as  a  means 
of  livelihood  but  as  a  pastime,  as  people  bet  only  what  they 


282  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

can  afford.  A.  members'  stand  was  recently  erected  at  a 
cost  of  $00,000.  In  the  same  direction  is  the  Parque  Central, 
a  ground  for  athletic  sports,  served  by  Cars  51  and  52  in  25 
minutes  at  a  cost  of  6  cts.  The  people  are  fond  of  sports, 
and  football  is  a  high  favorite ;  10,000  persons  may  attend 
matches. 

The  Immigrants'  Hotel  on  Bella  Vista  Beach,  opened  July 
18,  1908,  is  an  excellent  institution,  capable  of  receiving 
1000  guests,  and  containing  all  suitable  offices. 

In  mentioning  these  points  of  interest  several  suburbs  have 
been  spoken  of,  but  others  should  if  possible  be  visited,  as 
these  form  one  of  the  great  attractions  of  the  city.  One  of 
the  most  enjoyable  and  important  of  these  excursions  is  to 
the  Cerro,  a  hill  overlooking  the  bay,  to  be  reached  in  55 
minutes  by  No.  16  car,  fare  14  cts.,  or  by  ferry  from  the 
landing  every  half  hour,  fare  10  cts.  It  is  well  to  go  one 
way  and  return  another.  "While  the  hill  is  not  very  high 
and  is  easily  climbed  it  is  notable  for  several  reasons.  It 
was  the  occasion  of  the  name,  Montevideo,  /  see  a  moun- 
tain; it  is  the  first  true  hill  on  the  banks  of  the  Plata,  and, 
far  more  wonderful,  it  is  the  last  (so  Mr.  Koebel  says),  for 
over  1000  miles;  since  the  river  Parana,  as  well  as  the  Plata, 
flows  through  a  very  flat  country  and  the  next  hill  is  close 
to  Asuncion  in  Paraguay.  Other  hills  there  are  in  Uruguay 
and  higher,  but  these  are  along  the  Atlantic  coast  and  not  on 
the  rivers.  From  the  Cerro  there  is  a  varied  panorama, 
worth  seeing  if  one  has  time  to  devote  to  the  excursion — on 
one  side  the  bay,  the  city  on  the  promontory,  lapping  over  on 
the  mainland,  the  coast  line,  and  the  ocean  slightly  blue; 
on  the  other  the  level  shore  and  the  yellowish  brown  river. 

Of  the  nearer  surburbs  the  Paso  IMolino  on  the  way  to  the 
Prado  is  one  of  the  best  residential  districts.  The  suburb 
of  Colon,  car  41  (60  minutes,  14  cts.),  is  one  of  the  prettiest; 
this  car  passes  through  Sayago  suburb  where  the  Agri- 
cultural Institute  is  situated.  The  ride  is  a  charming  one, 
with  pretty  quintas  all  along  (houses  set  in  their  own  gar- 
dens), and  at  Colon  restaurants,  pleasure  gardens,  and  miles 
of  avenues  of  stately  eucalyptus  trees. 

Other  Towns.  If  one  has  time  for  more  distant  excursions 
there  are  a  number  of  places  which  deserve  a  visit,  some  of 


URUGUAY  283 

these  more  accessible  from  Buenos  Aires.  The  old  town  of 
Colonia,  to  which  boats  often  run  from  the  Argentine  capital, 
is  across  the  river,  and  three  miles  from  that  old-fashioned, 
quiet  city  is  a  new  resort  called  Real  de  San  Carlos,  where  a 
groat  hotel  is  planned  and  where  some  attractions  are  already 
installed,  a  bull  ring,  though  the  fights  are  now  discontiinied, 
another  ring  for  pelota,  a  fine,  sandy  bathing  beach,  a  modest 
hotel. 

The  great  Lichig  Establishment,  its  products  of  world-wide 
fame,  situated  at  Fray  Bentos  on  the  Uruguay  Kiver,  is  also 
easily  visited  from  Buenos  Aires.  This  Company,  now  with  a 
capital  of  $5,000,000,  with  estancias  in  Paraguay  and  in  sev- 
eral provinces  of  Argentina,  established  its  first  factory  at 
Fray  Bentos  in  1865.  Since  that  time,  in  addition  to  enor- 
mous development  there,  another  large  plant  has  been  created, 
10  miles  farther  up  the  river,  but  on  the  other  side,  in  Ar- 
gentina. Their  beef  extract,  their  Oxo  capsules,  and  their 
Lemco  have  a  deserved  reputation  the  world  over,  as  for  these 
productions  the  best  of  meat  only  is  used,  instead  of  the  leav- 
ings of  poor  or  diseased  meat  said  to  be  employed  in  some 
other  establishments.  All  of  the  products  are  obliged  to 
undergo  a  strict  test  in  order  to  have  the  use  of  the  Liebig 
name.  For  their  employees,  1500  in  number,  pleasant  homes 
are  provided,  medical  attendance,  schools  for  the  children, 
recreation  grounds,  etc. 

From  IMontevideo  excursions  may  easily  be  made  to  two 
unique  resorts  in  ]\Ialdonado,  the  next  State  east  of  Cauelones 
in  which  the  capital  is  situated.  Both  of  them  face  the  broad 
Atlantic,  though  still  on  the  south  shore.  Especially  should 
every  lover  of  nature,  of  plants  and  trees,  improve  this  op- 
portunity. Not  money-making  plcasure-gi'ounds  are  these, 
but  each  the  la])or  of  love  of  a  Uruguayan  gentleman  of  public 
spirit  and  of  great  wealth. 

Punta  Ballena  has  been  converted  into  an  Eden  by  Antonio 
D.  Lussicli,  roiiiuli-r  of  tlie  first  life-saving  station  in  America. 
A  natural  diversity  has  been  intensified  by  art.  The  Point  by 
a  ridge  is  divided  into  two  parts — on  the  east  are  green  mead- 
ows, lakes,  woods,  and  animals;  on  the  west,  nature  is  stern 
and  snvage  with  rocks  ;ind  barren  sands,  grottoes,  ete.  On 
a  height  which  connnands  a  view  of  the  Punta  del  Este,  the 


284  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

sea,  the  Lobos  Island  and  Lighthouse,  Senor  Lussieh  has  eon- 
struetcd  a  residence  with  a  beautiful  garden  in  which  roses  are 
a,  six'cialty,  and  a  wonderful  })ark  including  among  the  re- 
puted one  million  trees  the  finest  collection  of  eucalyptus  in 
South  America,  more  than  100  varieties. 

Piriapolis.  Probably  even  more  worthy  of  a  visit  is  Piria- 
polis,  to  wliich  a  railroad  has  recently  been  opened.  Francisco 
Piria,  i)ossessor  of  an  immense  estate  in  this  region,  in  addition 
to  beautifying  a  portion,  has  initiated  a  reform  now  being  fol- 
lowed by  others.  He  sells  on  easy  terms  to  the  poor  consid- 
erable tracts  for  cultivation.  The  city  which  he  has  laid  out 
on  the  seashore  is  called  an  enchanted  region  unlike  any  other. 
Surrounded  by  mountains  in  the  form  of  a  horse-shoe  open 
to  the  sea,  it  is  arranged  with  avenues  100  feet  wide  and  with 
twenty  plazas,  A  still  wider  avenue  five  miles  long,  in  part 
macadamized,  bordered  by  large  trees,  crosses  the  entire  prop- 
erty. On  the  city  streets  are  40,000  tall  eucalyptus  trees 
twenty  years  old,  arranged  in  perfect  lines.  The  beach,  the 
finest  on  La  Plata  River,  beautifully  smooth,  so  that  chil- 
dren can  bathe  in  safety,  has  an  area  of  150  acres.  Around 
the  city,  and  in  one  large  grove  are  several  million  trees,  15  to 
20  years  old,  some,  120  feet  high.  The  hotel,  called  the  finest 
in  the  country,  has  140  elegantly  furnished  suites  with  great 
salons  and  dining  hall,  a  portico  250  feet  long.  In  front  a 
beautiful  park  overlooks  the  ocean ;  at  the  sides  is  the  Park 
of  Roses,  where  Senor  Piria  has  planted  30,000  rose  trees. 
Besides  these  there  are  groves  of  willows,  walks,  and  a  trellis 
more  than  a  quarter  of  a  mile  long,  affording  grateful  shade. 
Close  by  is  a  Casino  four  stories  high  wath  a  300-foot  front. 
An  artesian  well  supplies  daily  10,000  gallons  of  good  water. 
All  modern  conveniences  are  provided,  such  as  the  latest 
electric  and  laundry  devices. 

Two  hills  separate  this  beach  from  the  next.  On  Ccrro 
Ingles  is  a  Fountain  of  the  Virgin,  of  mineral  w'ater  which 
has  constructed  a  stalactite  grotto.  On  the  Cerro  de  los 
Toros  is  another  mineral  spring.  High  up  among  grottoes 
and  cascades,  in  a  semi-circular  wall  of  rocks,  is  a  bronze  bull 
of  double  size,  Aveighing  nearly  three  tons,  with  a  stream  of 
clear  water  from  the  rocks  above  issuing  from  its  mouth. 
On  the  same  hill  is  a  Greek  temple  to  Aphrodite  30  feet  high, 


URUGUAY  285 

the  cupola  supported  by  six  marble  columns;  in  the  center 
a  l)ronze  Yeiius  with  a  jug  under  her  arm  from  which  will 
I)()ur  daily  5000  gallons  of  mineral  water.  All  of  the  spring 
waters  have  been  analyzed  and  pronounced  good  for  dyspep- 
sia. At  the  summit  of  this  Ccrro  de  los  Toros  is  a  kind  of 
crater,  at  the  bottom  of  which,  to  be  seen  only  from  the  top 
of  the  hill,  are  wocds  and  meadows.  On  the  Pan  de  Aziicar, 
one  of  the  surrounding  mountains,  sheltered  by  a  natural 
wall  of  granite,  is  a  row  of  colossal  palms.  A  chalet  has  here 
l)een  erected  for  the  benefit  of  youths  making  an  excursion. 
On  the  Cerro  Ingles  as  well,  there  is  a  chalet  for  tourists.  The 
mountains  around,  of  nuich  interest,  are  also  a  source  of 
great  wealth,  being  composed  of  superb  porphyry,  black  with 
veins  red  or  white,  red  with  black  veins,  green  with  white, 
about  50  beautiful  varieties.  The  Pan  de  Azucar,  nearly  20r)0 
feet  tall,  alone  is  of  rich  granite,  with  blocks  200  and  250 
feet  high,  from  which  monoliths  may  be  taken.  Sefior  Piria 
has  in  this  section  a  ranch  with  blooded  cattle,  a  tract  of 
vineyards,  a  grove  of  10.000  olive  trees,  and  a  chateau  and 
other  l)uildings  erected  at  a  cost  of  $100,000.  The  place  is 
three  hours  from  IMontevideo  by  sea  and  now  that  it  is  ac- 
cessible in  two  hours  by  rail,  it  will  soon  become  widely  known 
as  a  resort  of  extraordinarv  cliarms. 


CHAPTER  XXVII 
BRAZIL— ALONG  THE  COAST  TO  SANTOS 

The  extent  of  the  great  country,  the  exact  title  of  which 
is  the  United  States  of  Brazil,  most  of  us  hardly  realize. 
With  fifteen  times  the  area  of  France,  it  covers  more  ground 
than  the  United  States  without  Alaska  and  our  more  recent 
acquisitions,  is  larger  than  the  whole  of  Europe,  and  is  fifth 
in  size  (Percy  Martin  says  third)  among  the  nations  of  the 
world.  While  now  it  contains  barely  22  millions  of  inhabi- 
tants, about  five  to  the  square  mile,  the  great  scientist  and 
explorer  Humboldt  once  prophesied  that  it  would  in  the 
future  be  the  most  thickly  settled  portion  of  the  globe,  since 
from  the  richly  productive  nature  of  the  soil  life  may  there 
be  supported  with  small  exertion. 

Of  a  somewhat  triangular  shape,  Brazil  extends  a  distance 
of  2600  miles  from  north  to  south  and  2700  from  east  to  west. 
Although  in  large  part  under  or  near  the  equator  and  without 
lofty  mountains,  it  yet  has  considerable  elevation,  averaging 
2000  to  3000  feet  over  more  than  half  of  its  territory;  not 
enough  to  occasion  extreme  cold  anywhere,  but  sufficient  to 
induce  a  more  healthful  and  comfortable  climate  in  such  sec- 
tions. Bordering  on  every  South  American  country  except 
Chile  and  Ecuador,  it  is  favorably  situated  for  having  inti- 
mate commercial  relations  with  all,  when  its  settlements  have 
spread  out  in  every  direction,  instead  of  being  chiefly  in 
districts  near  the  coast,  with  a  few  in  the  Amazon  valley. 

HiSTORICAIi 

Accidentally  discovered  by  Europeans  within  ten  years  after  the 
first  landing  of  Columbus  on  Western  soil,  some  years  elapsed  be- 
fore it  received  a  permanent  settlement.  Pedro  Alvares  Cabral,  a 
Portujniese  nobleman,  by  good  fortune  holds  the  honor  of  having  in 
1500  first  beheld  the  most  eastern  shores  of  the  Amei'ican  continent. 

286 


BRAZIL  287 

Sailinsj  from  Lisbon  for  the  East  Indies  with  a  fleet  of  vessels, 
Cabral  was  instructed  by  Vasco  da  Gama  who  had  made  the  first 
all-sea  voyaiiC  to  that  region  to  bear  away  to  the  southwest,  in  order 
to  avoid  the  frequent  calnis  off  the  coast  of  Guinea,  until  he  should 
reach  34°  south  latitude  when  he  should  turn  east.  While  follow- 
ing these  directions,  on  the  21st  of  April  Cabral  sighted  a  moun- 
tain which,  as  it  was  Easter  week,  he  called  Paschoal.  The  next 
day  he  anchored  off  shore  of  the  present  State  of  Bahia,  to  com- 
memorate which  event.  May  3  is  a  Brazilian  national  holiday  and 
the  date  of  the  assembling  of  Congress.  Ten  days  Cabral  remained 
at  anchor  taking  formal  possession  of  the  land,  and  having  some 
communication  with  the  Lidians  who  appeared  friendly.  On  the 
news  reaching  Portugal  in  the  fall,  another  expedition  was  at  once 
sent  out  and  the  coast  was  explored  almost  to  La  Plata,  nearly 
2000  miles,  by  Amerigo  Vespucci,  who  was,  however,  disappointed 
by  finding  no  wealth  of  gold  or  silver  and  no  civilized  inhabitants. 
The  only  article  of  immediate  value  seemed  to  be  brazilwood 
which,  furnishing  a  bright  red  dj'e,  was  in  demand  in  Europe. 
Thus  the  land  was  called  the  Country  of  Brazilwood,  soon  shortened 
to  Brazil. 

The  name  America  later  bestowed  upon  the  land  which  Vespucci 
explored,  and  which  he  first  declared  to  be  not  a  part  of  the  Orient 
but  a  separate  continent,  was  afterwai'ds  extended  to  include  the 
northern  half.  Thus  it  seems  peculiarly  unfortunate  that  we 
should  arrogate  to  ourselves  the  title  of  being  the  Americans,  our 
only  apology  for  so  doing  being  the  fact  that  we  have  no  other 
name  by  which  we  can  be  called,  a  fact,  however,  which  does  not 
entitle  us  to  forget  that  there  are  others. 

The  first  real  settlement  by  the  Portuguese  was  made  in  Jan- 
uary, 1532,  at  Sao  Vicente  near  the  port  of  Santos,  soon  after  which 
a  second  post  Avas  established  on  the  high  land  above,  in  the  vicinity 
of  Sao  Paulo.  Subsequently  grants  were  made  by  King  John  III 
of  Captaincies,  fifteen  in  number,  each,  one  hundred  fifty  miles  along 
the  coast;  these  beginning  at  the  mouth  of  the  Amazon  and  ex- 
tending south  to  tlie  island  of  Santa  Catarina.  Six  permanent 
colonies  were  founded,  but  the  only  ones  early  amounting  to  nnich 
were  Pcrnambuco  and  Sao  Paulo,  later  Bahia  and  Kio  de  Janciio. 

The  Jesuits,  who  were  prominent  in  the  early  settlements,  gave 
particular  attention  to  Christianizing  the  Lidians.  bringing  them  into 
settlements  under  their  jurisdiction  and  instructing  them  both  in 
agriculture  and  in  various  industrial  arts.  Their  labors  were 
ehiclly  in  the  States  of  Sao  Paulo  and  Minas.  As  their  system  in- 
torrcred  with  the  exploitation  of  the  Lidians  by  the  Paulistas  these 
attacked  the  Jesuit  settlements,  within  twenty-five  years,  it  is  said, 


288  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

killing  300,000  of  the  natives,  and  finally  destroying  all  the  Jesuit 
settlements  on  the  ni)i)er  Parana. 

In  1558  a  nobleman,  Mem  de  Sa,  a  lawyer,  scholar,  and  able  ad- 
ministrator, as  Governor,  succeeded  in  eonsolidatintj  the  govern- 
ment of  the  various  colonies  and  in  establishing  the  Portuguese 
power  on  a  firm  basis,  in  spite  of  dilliculties  with  Indians  and  with 
French  settlers.  In  1581  Philip  II  of  Spain  by  obtaining  the  crown 
of  Portugal  became  also  the  ruler  of  Brazil.  During  the  sixty  years 
of  Spanish  domination  the  expansion  of  Brazil  to  the  west  in  terri- 
tory which  had  been  assigned  to  Spain  was  pennitted,  as  a  matter 
of  no  iini)ortance,  later,  however  to  involve  unforeseen  conse- 
quences. 

In  the  seventeenth  centuiy  there  were  years  of  struggle  against  the 
Dutch  who  first,  in  1624,  captured  Bahia,  to  lose  it  in  1G25;  in  1030 
they  captured  Pemambuco  which  they  retained  twenty-four  years, 
at  one  time  having  under  their  control  two-thirds  of  the  population 
and  developed  resources  of  Brazil,  Bahia  and  the  southern  provinces 
alone  remaining  in  the  hands  of  the  Portuguese.  Portugal  having 
meanwhile  recovered  its  independence  from  Spain,  the  Brazilians 
made  continued  efforts  under  the  leadership  of  John  Fernandez  to 
expel  the  Dutch.  At  last  they  succeeded  and  January  26,  1655,  the 
latter  signed  a  capitulation  for  the  surrender  of  Pernambueo  and 
all  other  holdings  in  the  eountiy.  This  stnaggle  fostered  the  de- 
velopment of  a  national  spirit  among  the  colonies,  while  the  fact 
that  the  coast  was  held  by  the  Dutch  impelled  the  opening  of  land 
routes  of  communication  in  the  interior.  Cattle  ranges  became  nu- 
merous, rumors  of  gold  were  heard,  and  in  1690  the  IMorro  Velho, 
one  of  the  great  gold  mines  of  the  world,  was  discovered. 

The  eighteenth  century  saw  many  conflicts  in  the  south,  in  Rio 
Grande  and  Uruguaj^,  but  in  1777  peace  Avas  declared  with  bound- 
aries as  at  present.  During  this  period  occurred  a  literary  de- 
velopment, six  of  the  leading  Portuguese  poets  appearing,  not  in 
Rio,  but  in  Minas,  twenty  days  on  muleback  from  the  coast.  In 
1807,  John,  Prince  Regent  of  Portugal,  came  over,  fleeing,  with  his 
court  and  with  much  property,  from  Napoleon.  Received  wnth  en- 
thusiasm, he  opened  to  commerce  the  five  great  ports,  encouraged 
literature,  art,  science,  and  education,  and  the  immigration  of  for- 
eigiiei's,  thus  inaugurating  a  movement  which  gradually  transformed 
the  countiy.  After  the  fall  of  Xapoleon,  Prince  John,  returning  in 
1821  to  Portugal,  left  his  son  Pedro  in  charge,  Avith  the  hint  that  if 
there  was  any  likelihood  of  Brazil  asserting  her  independence,  as 
the  Spanish  provinces  had  done,  he  should  put  the  crown  on  his 
own  head.  This  on  October  12,  1822,  he  did,  being  crowned  Con- 
stitutional Emperor  of  Brazil.     The  separation   from  the   Mother 


BRAZIL  289 

Country  occurred  without  bloodshed  in  Rio,  while  from  the  re- 
maining ports  the  Portuguese  garrisons  were  expelled  with  little 
dilliculty.  Troubles  came  aiterwaid.  Pedro,  i-egardless  of  the 
constitution,  attempted  to  be  a  despot.  After  quelling  a  revolt  in 
the  north,  becoming  involved  in  war  with  Argentina  which  ended 
with  the  independence  of  Uruguay,  and  having  alienated  his  earlier 
supporters,  he  was  compelled  in  1831  to  abdicate  in  favor  of  his 
infant  son.  Stormy  times  continued  so  that  after  a  nine  years' 
regency  Pedro  ii,  when  only  hfteen,  was  proclaimed  of  age  and  took 
the  throne.  Nine  years  more  were  required  for  the  pacification 
of  the  whole  country,  when  prosperity  of  all  kinds  followed.  In 
spite  of  the  expensive  war  with  Paraguay  and  other  drawbacks, 
commerce  increased,  general  industiy  developed,  and  political  re- 
forms were  instituted.  In  1888  during  the  absence  of  Dom  Pedro  in 
Europe  a  bill  for  the  abolition  of  slavery,  having  passed  both 
Houses  of  Congress,  was  signed  by  Princess  Isabella  as  Kegent.  In 
18SU  the  old  Emjieror,  who  had  returned,  was  summarily  expelled, 
with  hardly  Iwenly-four  hours'  notice  to  gather  together  his  be- 
longings; the  ditiiision  of  re])ublican  ideas  among  the  soldiery  mak- 
ing the  revolution  possible  without  bloodshed.  A  Provisional  Gov- 
ernment instituted  many  reforms,  organized  the  Provinces  into 
States,  established  universal  suffrage,  the  separation  of  Church  and 
State,  etc.  A  Congress  was  assembled  in  February,  1891,  a  consti- 
tution was  adopted,  and  Deodoro  Avas  elected  President.  Extrava- 
gance and  insurrections  followed,  then  financial  distress  which 
reached  its  height  in  1900.  Since  that  jieriod  the  country  has  ad- 
vanced rapidly  in  wealth,  population,  and  in  all  other  lines  of  de- 
velopment. 

The  individual  States  are  less  closely  bound  together  than  with  us, 
and  have  greater  power,  being  able  to  fix  export  and  import  taxes 
against  each  other. 

Before  embarking  at  ^Montevideo  for  Brazil  it  is  wise  to 
proeure  a  little  Brazilian  money,  which  is  more  troublesome 
than  any  other.  A  milreis  is  about  3li  cents;  but  instead  of 
having  100  cents  in  what  might  ])e  called  their  dollar  they 
have  1000  reis.  Five  hundred  reis  sounds  like  a  good  deal ; 
to  pay  200  or  300  for  car  fare  appears  quite  exorbitant;  but 
remembering  that  100  reis  is  only  3',  3  cents  it  seems  more 
reasonable. 

The  large  majority  of  tourists  will  embark  at  ^loulevideo 
for  Santos  in  one  of  the  fine  ships  of  the  Lamport  &  Holt 
Line,  the    Hamburg  Amt'i-ican,  or  the  ,1   boats  of  the  Koyal 


290  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

Mail,  all  of  which  are  comfortable,  even  luxurious.  Ten  days 
must  be  allowed,  and  from  twenty  to  thirty  will  be  enjoyed 
in  the  delightful  cities  of  Sao  Paulo  and  Rio  de  Janeiro. 
Brazil  is  an  immense  country,  larger,  we  must  remember,  than 
the  United  States  proper,  and  to  see  Sao  Paulo  and  Rio  only, 
affords  little  more  knowledge  of  the  Republic  than  a  glimpse 
of  New  York  and  Boston  gives  of  ours;  yet  in  a  four  months' 
tour  of  the  continent,  that  is  all  that  can  be  arranged.  The 
traveler  with  more  time  at  his  command  may  find  pleasure 
and  profit  in  visiting  other  portions  of  the  great  Republic. 
This  may  be  done,  so  far  as  Southern  Brazil  is  concerned,  in 
two  different  ways.  The  tourist  may  take  at  IMontevideo  one 
of  the  boats  of  the  Brazilian  Lloyd  Line,  which  call  at  the 
principal  ports  all  along  the  coast,  and  thus  journeying  in 
complete  comfort,  may  visit  many  prosperous  cities,  where  he 
will  be  astonished  by  the  high  degree  apparent,  of  culture, 
of  business  energy,  and  of  rapid  growth  and  progress.  Or, 
if  preferring  as  long  as  possible  to  avoid  the  sea,  he  may 
proceed  from  IMontevideo  to  Rio  all  the  way  by  land,  and 
thus  gain  some  idea  of  the  great  interior  country,  here  so 
different  from  the  vast  Argentine  plain,  with  much  variety 
in  scenery  and  enormous  possibilities  for  future  development. 
This  railway  journey  at  present  requires  five  or  six  days 
to  Sao  Paulo,  more  time  than  by  express  steamer,  and  in- 
volves more  fatigue  and  hardship.  At  last  accounts  there 
were  no  through  sleepers,  the  road  in  places  was  rough  and 
dusty  and  altogether  slow.  The  distance  to  Rio  is  nearly 
2000  miles.  But  on  a  new  road  through  a  rapidl}'  developing 
country,  quick  changes  and  improvements  may  be  looked  for, 
and  by  the  time  any  of  my  readers  is  ready  for  the  overland 
journey,  it  is  possible  that  it  may  be  made  in  three  or  four 
days,  perhaps  in  through  sleepers.  In  one  of  these,  the 
tourist  may  now  set  out  from  IMontevideo,  where  details  as  to 
the  comforts  and  duration  of  the  journey  may  best  be  secured. 
The  entire  region  is  scantily  peopled  all  the  way  to  Sao  Paulo 
and  there  is  no  unusual  or  striking  scenery,  except  in  ascend- 
ing to  the  plateau  beyond  Santa  ^laria  in  the  state  of  Rio 
Grande  do  Sul,  and  in  the  descent  to  the  town  of  Uniao  in 
the  Iguassii  Valley.  Along  the  route  traveled,  Uruguay  and 
Southern  Brazil  show  a  pretty  country  of  rolling  pasture  land 


BRAZIL  291 

to  Passo  Fundo  in  Rio  Grande  do  Sul;  then  comes  a  hilly 
district  covered  with  primeval  forest,  chiefly  pine,  to  Ponta 
Grossa  in  Pai'ana  and  beyond,  and  in  the  State  of  Sao  Paulo 
highlands,  agricultural  and  pastoral.  A  few  villages  of  from 
500  to  5000  people  are  scattered  along  the  way,  with  two  towns, 
Santa  Maria  and  Ponta  Grossa,  of  about  15,000  each.  Within 
a  few  years  it  is  possible  that  a  cross  railroad,  already 
planned,  will  be  built  from  Sao  Francisco  on  the  coast  to 
Uniao,  the  station  above  referred  to  in  the  Iguassu  Valley, 
and  thence  onward  to  the  Iguassu  Falls  and  Asuncion.  When 
this  road  is  finished  it  may  be  desirable  to  visit  Montevideo 
from  Buenos  Aires;  returning  thither  one  might  go  by  rail 
or  steamer  to  Rosario  and  Asuncion,  then  across  to  the  Iguassu 
Falls  and  on  by  rail  to  Uniao  and  thence  proceed  to  Sao  Paulo. 
A  coast  railway  is  now  planned  between  Rio  and  Porto  Alegre 
(963  miles)  by  which  it  is  expected  that  the  journey  will  be 
made  in  25  hours. 

Rio  Grande  do  Sul.  By  a  coasting  steamer,  one  will  first 
visit  the  State  of  Rio  Grande  do  Sul,  the  most  southern  in 
Brazil,  w'cll  away  from  the  tropics,  hence  with  a  temperate 
climate,  much  like  that  of  Georgia,  and  largely  settled  by 
Germans.  For  a  State  with  considerable  seaboard,  the  loca- 
tion of  its  three  chief  cities  on  a  fresh  water  lake  or  lagoon 
may  at  first  appear  curious,  yet  of  course  there  is  a  reason. 
The  coast  being  flat  and  generally  sandy  the  best  harbor  is 
the  lagoon,  separated  from  the  sea  by  a  sandy  spit  of  land 
only  a  few  miles  wide.  The  entrance,  a  narrow  strait  near 
the  south  end,  has  a  considerable  sand-bar  on  which  engineers 
liave  been  at  work  to  secure  a  passage  33  feet  deep,  affording 
ingress  to  large  ocean  steamers.  This  will  greatly  augment 
the  present  important  commerce.  The  larger  steamers  now 
entering  go  only  to  the  city  liio  Grande  do  Sul  at  the  south- 
ern extremity  of  the  Lagoa  dos  Patos,  Lagoon  of  the  Ducks, 
named  from  one  of  the  tribes  earlier  inhabiting  this  region. 
The  town  has  fine  wide  streets,  many  handsome  buildings,  and 
in  the  Praca  Tamandare,  on  which  stands  the  Post  Office  and 
Public  Lihrary,  one  unique  feature:  the  only  monument  in 
Brazil,  it  is  said,  comnu  moral inrj  the  freeing  of  the  slaves. 
The  citizens  are  justly  proud  of  their  Library  of  40,000  vol- 
umes, probably  the  best  south  of  Sao  Paulo,  and  of  the  fact 


292  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

that  they  possess  tlie  oldest  ncivspapcr  in  Brazil  except  the 
Jomal  do  Commercio  of  Rio. 

Porto  Alegre.  As  the  Lagoon  is  150  miles  long  (30  wide), 
it  is  a  long  sail,  12  hours,  to  Porto  Alegre,  tiie  capital  and 
chief  town  of  the  State  at  the  northern  end.  Three  hours 
from  Rio  Grande  a  call  is  made  at  the  pleasant  town  of 
Pelotas,  beyond  which  there  is  little  to  see  on  account  of  the 
width  of  the  lagoon.  The  beef  industry  in  the  form  of  salt 
beef  factories  is  a  chief  feature  of  the  prosperity  of  Pelotas, 
and  rows  of  beef  strips  hung  up  in  the  sun  to  dry,  with  an 
occasional  factory,  may  be  seen  for  miles  along  the  shore. 
Porto  Alegre,  settled  in  1742  by  colonists  from  the  Azores, 
after  the  Prussian  Revolution  in  1848  received  many  Ger- 
mans, so  that  one-fourth  of  its  100,000  inhabitants  are  now 
of  German  descent.  The  town  has  some  handsome  public 
buildings,  including  a  City  Hall  with  marble  columns  from 
native  quarries,  and  some  that  are  old  and  ugly.  A  large 
stone  building  near  the  quay  houses  the  public  market,  where 
fruit,  vegetables,  dairy  products,  etc.,  are  sold,  at  modest 
prices  in  comparison  with  those  at  Buenos  Aires  and  Rio.  The 
climate  is  healthful,  with  some  freezing  weather  in  the  winter, 
and  snow  in  the  mountainous  section  inland.  Minerals  are 
found  in  the  State,  including  coal,  but  the  chief  wealth  is 
cattle;  not  the  blooded  stock  of  Argentina  but  good  enough 
for  jerked  beef.  Also  agricultural  products  are  important, 
one  settlement,  chiefly  of  Italians,  exporting  annually  a  mil- 
lion dollars '  worth.  A  beautiful  waterfall  400  feet  high  called 
Herval  may  be  visited  a  few  hours  from  Sapyranga  on  the 
railway  between  Porto  Alegre  and  Taquara. 

Going  north  from  Rio  Grande  the  steamers  of  the  Brazilian 
Lloyd  and  the  Costeira  lines  call  in  the  next  State,  Santa 
Catharina,  at  its  capital  Florianopolis,  one  of  the  most  pic- 
turesque of  Brazilian  cities,  on  an  island  of  the  same  name. 
Facing  the  mainland  five  miles  across  the  Strait,  with  a  back- 
ground of  hills  rising  from  1000  to  3000  feet,  it  is  a  charming 
contrast  to  the  more  level  country  previously  visited.  In  the 
principal  plaza  a  stone  monument  with  a  pyramid  of  cannon 
balls  at  the  top  commemorates  those  who,  as  Volunteers,  per- 
ished in  the  Paraguayan  War.  Though  a  town  of  30,000 
people  it  is  a  quiet  place  where  they  mostly  stay  at  home 


BRAZIL— ALONG  THE  COAST  TO  SANTOS       293 

evenings  and  go  to  bed  by  ten  o'clock.  A  little  farther  north, 
the  port  of  Sao  Francisco,  called  the  best  south  of  Santos, 
from  the  building  of  the  Iguassu,  Paraguay,  and  other  rail- 
ways is  destined  to  be  of  great  importance. 

ParanagTia.  In  the  State  of  Parana,  one  of  the  most  beau- 
tiful of  Brazil,  detached  in  1858  from  the  State  of  Sao  i'aulo, 
a  call  is  made  at  Paranagua,  its  chief  seaport,  from  which 
ycrha  mate,  growni  in  the  interior,  is  an  especially  important 
export.  In  this  State  and  the  next,  the  larger  aud  plea.santer 
cities  are  on  the  high  land  in  the  interior.  The  low  semi- 
tropical  strip  along  the  shore  is  separated  from  the  plateau 
region  within  by  the  Serra  do  ]\Iar  or  Coast  Range,  extending 
far  north  very  near  the  shore.  Rivers,  like  the  Iguassii  aJid 
Parana,  rising  almost  within  sight  of  the  Atlantic,  tlow  thou- 
sands of  miles  to  increase  the  waters  of  La  Plata.  The 
capital  city,  Curityha,  with  50,000  inhabitants,  may  be  vis- 
ited by  rail  from  Paranagua,  a  delightful  four  hours'  journey 
of  70  miles,  among  the  valleys  and  up  the  slopes  of  the  hills 
and  mountains  of  the  Serra  do  ^lar,  the  climb  to  an  altitude 
of  3000  feet  being  made  without  cogs  or  cal)Ies,  by  means  of 
high  trestles,  bridges,  and  17  tunnels.  The  journey  is  said 
to  surpass  in  beauty  the  better  known  ride  from  Santos  to  Sao 
Paulo,  presenting  a  variety  of  natural  seenery  seldom  i'ouud 
in  so  short  a  trip,  along  with  rich  semi-tropical  vegetation, 
pine  forests,  and  manifestations  of  industrial  development. 
The  State  spends  more  in  proportion  upon  education  than  does 
any  other  in  Brazil.  It  possesses  unlimited  resources  in  cattle, 
agriculture,  mines,  and  forests.  The  pine  tree  of  Brazil,  tho 
Araiicai'ia  hrasiliensis,  especially  prominent  in  this  State, 
din'ers  greatly  in  appearance  from  pines  in  the  United  States. 
They  are  a  striking  feature  of  the  landscape,  growing  with  a 
single  straight  trunk,  sometimes  125  feet,  with  a  diameter  of 
six  feet.  Thus  they  somewhat  resemble  a  palm,  though 
crowned  at  the  top  with  branches  in  shape  like  a  bowl,  bare 
to  the  end,  where  glolies  of  dnrk  crisi)y  green  leaves  recall  a 
candelabrum.  All  parts  of  the  tree  are  useful ;  the  fruit  is 
edible,  the  nut  is  used  to  manufacture  buttons,  and  the  wood, 
for  building  and  other  purposes. 

IV'Vond  C'nrityba  the  road  goes  on  to  meet  the  tln-ough  line 
from  jMontevideo  at  Pouta  Grossa.     Not  far  from  the  June- 


294  THE  SOUTH  AMIilRICAN  TOUR 

tion  is  a  curiosity  called  Villa  Velha,  old  village,  reminding  of 
the  Garden  of  the  (Jods,  but  even  more  remarkable.  The 
reddish  rocks  of  sandstone  have  had  part  of  their  formation 
cut  away  by  time  and  water,  leaving  rocks  which  resemble 
houses,  walls,  or  ruins,  some,  300  feet  high  like  castles  and 
towers,  with  low  bushes  growing  among  them,  the  whole 
having  the  appearance  of  an  abandoned  city.  Curityba,  like 
Sao  Paulo,  though  much  smaller,  is  a  wide  awake,  modern 
city  with  handsome  buildings,  hotels,  etc.,  and  a  boarding  and 
day  school  conducted  by  two  American  ladies.  An  important 
industry  is  the  preparation  of  ycrba  mate  for  market,  20 
large  mills  existing  for  this  purpose  in  various  parts  of  the 
state.     The  mate  profits  sometimes  reach  100  per  cent. 

In  the  vicinity  of  Antonina,  a  pretty  town  on  the  same  bay 
as  Paranagua,  is  a  curiosity  called  samhaqiiis,  mounds,  71  in 
number,  the  work  of  a  pre-historic  race  containing  skeletons, 
pieces  of  pottery  and  of  polished  stone  of  varying  aspect,  ap- 
parently indicating  a  progress  in  culture  through  generations. 
Unfortunately  many  of  these  remains  have  been  put  to  the 
prosaic  use  of  making  lime,  but  some  near  Lagoa  Santa  still 
await  the  archgeologist  and  the  ethnologist. 


CHAPTER  XXVIII 
SANTOS  AND  SAO  PAULO 

The  State  of  Sao  Paulo,  called  the  most  progressive,  if  not 
the  most  important  in  Brazil,  has  for  its  cliiL-f  seaport  tiie 
city  of  Santos,  to  which  the  majority  of  tourists  will  have 
come  by  express  steamer  from  Montevideo.  Most  ships  call 
at  Santos,  even  coming  up  to  the  docks,  so  that  all  may  sec 
this  city.  The  only  question  is  whether  or  not  to  go  up  to 
Sao  Paulo,  distant  two  hours  by  rail.  This  should  he  no 
question.  Every  one  must  go  if  only  for  the  ride  and  a 
glimpse  of  this  prosperous  and  busy  capital,  returning  the 
same  afternoon.  Fare  one  way  12^900.  Should  the  steam- 
er's schedule  not  permit  of  this  excursion,  one  should  .still  go, 
and  either  wait  over  until  the  next  steamer,  a  ticket  on  the 
Lamport  and  Ilolt  serving  also  on  the  Royal  Mail,  or  proceed 
from  Sao  Paulo  by  rail  to  Rio,  fare  54$.jU0.  Or  if  preferred, 
one  may  continue  in  the  same  steamer  to  Rio,  thence  return 
later  by  rail  to  St'io  Paulo,  and  embark  at  Santos  on  his  home- 
ward journey,  an  arrangement  which  affords  certain  advan- 
tages. In  this  way  one  has  the  great  pleasure  of  twice  enter- 
ing the  magnificent  harbor  of  Rio,  which  it  were  a  pity  to 
miss  altogether.  On  the  other  hand,  journeying  by  rail  from 
Sao  Paulo  one  may,  perhaps,  if  on  the  right  train,  enjoy  a 
view  of  the  city  and  harbor  while  descending  from  the  plateau 
above  down  to  sea  level.  But  as  somewhat  similar  views  may 
be  had  from  Corcovado,  Tijuca,  and  the  road  to  Petn.polis, 
this  is  less  important  and  desirable  than  the  view  of  Rio  from 
the  sea,  peculiarly  entrancing  at  early  dawn.  To  stay  over 
from  one  weekly  steamer  to  the  next  is  not  too  mueli  if  one 
cares  to  visit  a  colfee  plantation  and  see  a  little  of  tlie  coun- 
try; a  day  or  two  is  better  than  nothing. 

The  name  of  Sao  Paulo,  the  greatest  coffee-producing  region 
of  the  world,  is  less  familiar  to  jieople  generally  than  that  of 
its  seaport,  Santos,  as  the  name   Santos    is    attached    to    thQ 

295 


296  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

enormous  quantity  of  coH'cc  thence  dispatched  to  all  quarters 
of  the  globe.  As  almost  every  one  occasionally  or  regularly 
drinks  cofl'ee,  some  of  which  is  likely  to  have  been  grown 
in  the  State  of  Sao  Paulo,  there  is  an  especial  interest  in 
hvii'uiiig  something  of  the  country.  Sao  J*aulo  is  an  active 
flourishing  State,  not  at  all  in  accordance  with  the  gen- 
eral idea  of  Brazil,  chiefly  associated  with  the  hot  Amazon 
basin;  it  is  an  upland  temperate  region  of  75,000  square 
miles,  a  trifle  larger  than  the  whole  of  New  England  with 
New  Jersey  added. 

Brazil,  like  most  other  tropical  lands,  is  fortunate  in  having 
a  fair  portion  of  her  surface  considerably  elevated  above  the 
sea,  and  thus  with  an  agreeable  climate  of  quite  temperate 
character.  The  Coast  Range,  which  includes  the  Serra  do 
Mar,  extending  from  Espirito  Santo  to  Santa  Catharina  is 
indeed  a  godsend  to  the  country,  endowing  it,  through  regions 
of  great  extent,  with  wonderful  scenic  beauty,  besides  mod- 
ifying the  climate;  while  in  Sao  Paulo  and  Minas  Geraes,  a 
parallel  range  with  two  peaks,  Itapeva  and  Marins,  7000  and 
8000  feet,  confers  additional  advantage.  Between  these  two 
ranges,  as  also  west  of  the  second,  the  land  is  high,  the  low- 
land being  confined  to  a  narrow  strip  along  the  coast. 
Unlimited  water  power,  one  estimate  is  2,000,000  horsepower, 
now  unexploited,  is  a  valuable  asset  of  the  State;  for  the 
various  tributaries  of  the  Parana  have  a  number  of  large 
cataracts  both  useful  and  beautiful,  the  Itapura  Fall  1500  feet 
wide  and  40  high,  the  Avanhandava  50  feet  high,  and  others. 
In  spite  of  this  the  rivers  in  considerable  stretches  are  navi- 
gable. Besides  the  cultivation  of  coffee  for  which  the  State  is 
pre-eminent,  sugar,  cotton,  rice,  and  tobacco,  fruit  and  cereals 
are,  or  soon  will  be,  important  productions. 

Santos.  The  port  of  Santos  (Hotels,  Grande,  Washington, 
Internacional),  called  one  of  the  best  and  most  important  of 
the  world,  receives  annually  more  than  1500  steamers  besides 
sailing  vessels.  The  largest  ocean  liners  anchor  alongside  the 
quay,  w-hich  extends  from  the  Sao  Paulo  Railway  Station  two 
miles  down  along  the  front  of  the  town.  The  fine  docks  were 
built  by  a  local  company,  which  in  1892  began  the  construc- 
tion, on  a  base  from  10  to  20  feet  thick,  of  a  huge  sea  wall  of 
granite   rising   5   feet   above   high   water   mark.     Hydraulic 


SANTOS  297 

and  other  machinery  is  provided  to  receive  and  discharge 
freight,  and  commerce  has  grown  rapidly  until,  in  1011,  it 
amounted  to  $160,000,000  exports  and  $65,000,000  imports. 

Santos  is  an  ancient  town  founded  in  1544  or  earlier  by 
Braz  Cubas.  A  hospital  established  by  this  gentleman,  the 
first  charitable  institution  in  Brazil,  was  called  Todos  os 
Santos,  from  which  the  name  Santos  was  gradually  used  to 
designate  the  town.  After  his  death  at  an  advanced  age, 
Braz  Cubas  was  buried  in  the  chapel  of  the  hospital.  Its 
early  origin  might  seem  to  indicate  that  the  place  was  par- 
ticularly unhealthy,  and  it  has  in  fact  had  a  bad  reputation 
as  a  seat  of  yellow  fever ;  but  for  some  years  now  it  has  been 
as  healthful  as  need  be.  The  State  and  City  authorities, 
awaking  to  the  importance  of  such  matters,  accom[)lislied  the 
sanitation  of  the  port  by  means  of  a  perfect  system  of  drain- 
age and  a  good  water  supply. 

Though  the  fact  is  not  apparent,  Santos,  a  city  of  70,000 
people,  is  situated,  3  miles  from  the  ocean,  on  an  island,  the 
northeast  shore  of  Silo  Vicente;  but  so  close  is  the  island  to 
the  mainland  that  in  the  dry  season  when  the  river  has  no 
water  it  becomes  a  peninsula.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the 
river-like  channel  by  which  ships  enter  the  harbor,  is  a  larger 
island,  Santo  Amaro.  It  is  all  very  pretty,  as  luxuriantly 
clad  hills  slope  almost  to  the  water's  edge.  At  the  southwest 
end  of  the  island,  Sao  Vicente,  is  the  old  town  of  that  name, 
an  hour  by  rail  from  Santos.  Toward  the  south  end  are  two 
popular  summer  resorts  where  some  of  the  Santos  people, 
especially  the  foreigners,  live  all  the  year  around,  while  from 
the  interior  man}^  come  down  for  the  summer.  At  the  en- 
trance of  the  channel  called  Guarujji,  the  fortress  of  Barra 
Grande  on  the  east  guards  the  liai-bor,  while  opposite  is  the 
suburb  of  Barra  with  charming  country  homes.  Half  way 
up  the  channel  the  docks  give  evidence  of  commercial  activity. 
Opposite  the  city  of  Santos  on  the  island  Santo  Amaro,  be- 
yond the  hills  is  the  seashore  resort  (luanija,  called  the  most 
picturesque  in  South  America,  on  a  rounded  knoll  overlooking 
the  ocean,  among  higher  hills  clothed  with  virgin  forest. 
This  fashionable  resort  which  is  readied  by  means,  first,  of  a 
short  sail  across  the  channel,  then  of  a  half  hour's  railway 
ride,  not  so  grand  or  expensive  as  ^lar  del  Plata,  has  natural 


298  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

advantages  far  greater.  Near  the  shore  is  the  new  Grand 
Hotel  Guaruja,  managed  by  the  Ritz-Carlton  Co.,  affording 
every  convenience  and  luxury.  It  accommodates  400  guests 
at  prices  from  12$000  to  30$000  a  day.  A  casino,  a  bathing 
pavilion,  walks,  parks,  and  play-grounds  add  much  to  their 
enjoyment. 

At  Santos  every  one  goes  ashore  if  only  for  the  few  hours 
that  all  ships  tarry.  The  business  streets  are  close  by  and  the 
pretty  central  plaza  but  a  short  distance.  This  old  part  of 
the  city  between  the  docks  and  the  15th  of  November  street 
preserves  the  narrow  old-fashioned  alleys,  we  should  call 
them,  of  the  colonial  period,  by  no  means  unpleasant  on  a  hot 
day.  Although  warm,  it  is  usual  to  see  persons  hurrying 
about,  for  business  is  done  between  ten  and  four,  a  shorter  day 
than  in  most  Brazilian  cities ;  here  imperative,  as  many  busi- 
ness men  daily  come  in  the  morning  from  Sao  Paulo,  return- 
ing by  the  afternoon  train.  A  Brazilian  writer  whose  trans- 
lator's English  is  frequently  amusing  says,  "People  do  not 
run,  they  fly.  The  sweat  dampens  the  collars,  the  converses 
are  resumed  to  the  exchange  of  monosyllables,  as  it  is  neces- 
sary that  everything  be  finished  before  the  last  train  starts." 
Away  from  the  business  section  are  broader  streets  and  fine 
houses,  with  a  hotel  called  excellent.  Two  long  wide  avenues, 
Nebias  and  Anna  Costa,  crossed  by  streets  which  are  gradually 
being  built  up,  extend  towards  the  sea.  Street  cars  run 
in  this  and  other  directions,  and  if  time  permits  it  is  a  pleas- 
ant ride  to  a  pretty  seashore  suburb  with  rolling  surf  and 
attractive  dwellings  at  the  end  of  the  route. 

But  now  we  must  climb  the  Cubatao  Hill,  we  might  even 
say  mountain,  to  the  capital  city,  by  the  Sao  Faulo  liailway. 
An  elevation  of  3000  feet  is  gained  in  a  very  short  distance, 
as  the  Serra  do  Mar  is  indeed  close  to  the  shore.  The  height 
seems  too  steep  to  climb  with  any  ordinary  means,  and  in  fact 
it  is.  Extraordinary  means  are  employed,  inclined  planes  on 
a  much  larger  scale  than  we  have  seen  before,  of  novel  con- 
struction and  carrying  regular  railway  coaches.  It  is  a 
strange  and  wonderful  ride  through  tropical  forests,  along 
the  side  of  steep  inclines  of  great  picturesque  beauty.  Often 
when  the  region  is  shrouded  in  mist  a  rift  therein,  disclosing 
a  tremendous  chasm  below,  has  a  rather  startling  effect. 


SANTOS  AND  SAO  PAULO         299 

This  railway  is  ranked  by  experienced  British  engineers 
among  the  great  mechanical  achievements  of  the  world,  such 
as  the  Brooklyn  and  Forth  bridges.  Due  to  the  initiative  of 
Visconde  de  ^Maua,  it  makes  an  ascent  of  2600  feet  in  the  short 
distance  of  seven  miles.  Beginning  only  15  feet  above  the 
sea  live  inclined  planes  with  a  grade  of  eight  per  cent,  each' 
about  a  mile  and  a  quarter  long,  serve  for  the  rapid  climb. 
Four  intermediate  levels  of  about  600  feet  each  sejjarate  the 
planes;  a  bankhead  at  the  top  is  a  little  longer.  Above  each 
plane  is  a  stationary  engine  to  run  the  cables,  and  to  grip 
these  a  small  special  engine  is  attaclied  to  each  car.  The 
winding  engines  for  the  cables  are  built  under  the  track, 
partly  underground,  receiving  light  from  the  side.  One  is 
surprised  to  see  two  double  roads,  but  the  first  proving  in- 
sufficient for  the  freight  traffic,  soon  after  1895  a  new  incline 
was  begun,  just  above  on  the  same  slope,  with  improved  tech- 
nical arrangements.  The  tracks  are  very  curious.  On  the 
inclines  each  doul)le  track  has  but  three  rails  for  ])oth  up  and 
down,  these  being  1.6  meters  distant  one  from  another,  tiie 
middle  rail  serving  for  both  the  ascending  and  the  descending 
cars,  whieh  ol)viously  do  not  meet  on  the  inclines,  but  may  on 
the  intermediate  levels.  On  each  side,  in  the  center  of  the 
space  between  the  middle  and  the  outside  rails,  the  pulleys  are 
fixed  which  carry  the  cable.  This  is  an  endless  steel  wire  of 
enormous  strength,  run  by  a  1000  horsepower  engine,  and 
capable  of  carrying  6  freight  or  3  passenger  cars  at  a  time. 
The  entire  capacity  of  the  cal)les  is  17,500  tons  daily,  or  under 
pressure  22,000  tons.  These  remarkable  engineering  works 
as  greatly  deserve  the  attention  of  tlie  tourist  as  the  scenery. 
In  this  short  section  there  are  16  viaducts,  15  tunnels,  and 
two  miles  of  retaining  Avail,  with  a  volume  of  masonry  exceed- 
ing 80,000  cubic  meters.  For  one  cutting  over  150  feet  deep, 
300,000  cubic  meters  of  earth  was  removed.  The  Grota 
Funda  viaduct  is  3.'U  feet  long  and  nearly  150  feet  high  in 
the  center.  Two  viaducts  have  masonry  arches,  the  rest  slccl. 
A  difficult  problem  was  the  drainage,  and  many  surface  drains 
of  the  extensive  system  may  be  observ(>d  in  passing.  The 
road,  though  but  100  miles  long,  exiending  from  Sanlos  to 
Jnndiahy  and  j)assing  Sao  Paulo  half  way  is  one  of  llir  richest 
in  tlie  world.     In  spite  of  the  enormous  expense  involved  in 


300  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

its  unusual  construction,  from  the  fact  that  it  carries  the 
most  freight  and  charges  the  highest  prices,  it  yields  the 
largest  dividends  of  any  road  in  lirazil,  sometimes  fifty  per 
cent.  Its  heaviest  earnings  come  from  the  transport  of 
coffee,  as  in  the  section  served  hy  this  line  and  its  connec- 
tions there  are  probably  500  million  coffee  trees.  From  these 
the  road  carries  7  of  the  10  million  bags  annually  exported, 
besides  ordinary  freight  transportation.  The  passenger 
traffic  hardly  pays,  or  greatly  increases  in  volume,  as  the 
two  hours'  ride  from  Sao  Paulo  to  Santos  is  more  than  most 
men  care  to  take  daily. 

Sao  Paulo 

Hotels.  The  Rotisserrie  Sportsman,  the  Grand,  the  Majestic,  the 
West. 

After  climbing  the  mountain  side,  an  hour  more  over  a 
rolling  country  brings  one  to  the  station  called  Luz,  in  the 
city  of  Sao  Paulo,  said  to  be  the  largest  and  most  costly  rail- 
way station  in  South  America,  and  one  of  the  finest  in  the 
world.  The  tracks  are  arranged  below  the  street  level,  hence 
there  are  no  grade  crossings.  This  city,  the  second  in  Brazil, 
and  with  its  about  400,000  inhabitants  taking  third  position 
among  the  cities  of  South  America,  will  be  a  surprise  to 
most  travelers.  Located  on  the  Tropic  of  Capricorn,  its  ele- 
vation gives  it  a  healthful  climate  which  in  combination  with 
other  advantages  has  produced  men  awake  to  the  spirit  of 
progress  and  eager  to  develop  the  astonishing  resources  of  this 
richly  endowed  State.  The  city  is  not  only  the  capital  and  the 
seat  of  State  Government,  but  a  notable  center  of  education 
and  industry,  and  the  home  of  many  men  of  great  wealth. 
It  is  an  ancient  city,  going  back  to  the  middle  of  the  sixteenth 
century,  155-4,  its  name  Sao  Paulo,  which  had  been  pre- 
viously applied  to  a  Jesuit  college  here,  being  transferred 
to  the  new  settlement  by  the  Governor  General  of  Brazil, 
Mem  de  Sa.  Though  of  gTcater  age  than  any  city  in  our 
own  country,  for  three  centuries  it  made  small  progress. 
In  1872  it  was  a  town  of  26,557  people.  But  within  the  last 
forty  years  it  has  shown  amazing  growth,  which  few  of  our 
cities  can  parallel,  an  increase  of  nearly  fifteen  fold.  Al- 
though on  the  edge  of  the  tropics,  from  its  elevation  of  3000 


.:»«' 


LUZ    STATION.    SAO    PArLO 


^1 
MlNKirAL    THEATRE 


SAO  PAULO  301 

feet,  it  has  a  climate  like  that  of  Southern  Europe.  From 
the  neighboring  mountains  it  receives  an  excellent  wafer 
supply,  while  its  site  on  rolling  ground  afTords  excellent 
drainage  facilities  and  in  places  a  splendid  outlook. 

The  hotel  accommodations  are  unfortunately  iiLKliMjiiale 
for  the  rapid  development  and  business  of  the  city.  Tlu\y 
are  fairly  comfortable,  though  apt  to  be  over-crowded.  It  is 
well  if  possible  to  engage  a  room  in  advance.  The  Sports- 
man's Hotel  on  the  rua  Sao  Bento  is  considered  the  best ; 
the  Grand,  the  West,  and  the  Majestic  are  not  far  distant. 
The  prices  are  all  about  the  same,  from  sf^^.SO  to  $;■).()()  a  day, 
American  j)lan.  The  rooms  at  the  Sportsman  are  comfortable, 
the  table  is  quite  good.  The  main  streets  of  the  business  cen- 
ter, naturally  the  old  part  of  the  town,  are  ratluM-  narrow  and 
not  all  checkerboard  fasliion  as  in  most  of  the  cities  visited. 
This,  no  doubt,  is  due  to  the  fact  that  the  surface  is  irregular, 
with  hills  and  valleys  such  that  in  one  place  a  viaduct  800 
feet  long  and  50  wide,  called  the  Viaducto  do  Cha,  forms 
a  curious  street  leading  from  the  rua  Direita  over  an  old  part 
of  the  town,  once  a  tea  garden,  to  a  hill  in  the  newer  section, 
where  the  handsome  Municipal  Theater  is  situated.  This 
imposing  edifice,  with  streets  on  all  sides,  recently  erected  at 
a  cost  of  a  million  dollars,  compares  with  the  best  in  Europe 
and  surpasses  any  in  the  United  States.  The  seating  capacity 
is  a  triHe  less  than  that  of  the  Paris  Oi)era  House.  The 
seats  for  the  orchestra  are,  according  to  the  "Wagner  system, 
placed  below  the  general  floor  level. 

The  commercial  center  of  the  city,  not  far  fidin  the  hotels 
mentioned,  is  a  ti'iaiigular  plaza  called  Tirad(Mites.  The  rua 
Sao  Bento,  the  Quinze  de  Novembro,  and  the  Direita  ai-e  the 
principal  shopping  and  business  streets.  The  Lar(jo  do 
Valacio  is  a  scpiare  near  by,  on  which  is  the  fine  Pnlarr  of 
Congress;  the  handsome  Agricultural  liuilding  of  the  Ger- 
man style;  the  Treasury,  covering  700  square  nu-ters,  the 
work  of  a  Brazilian  architect.  Ramos  de  Azevedo;  and  the 
Judiciav]!  liuilding  of  the  Roman  Doric  order.  Other  note- 
worthy buildings  are  the  I'ost  OjTicr,  the  Exchange,  the 
Chamber  of  Commerce,  and  the  I'lthlic  Lihrarg.  Some  of 
the  finest  streets  are  the  Aveiiidas  Tiradentes,  and  the  Rangel 
Pestana    i)assing   the   Largo   da    Concordia    with    the   always 


302  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

interesting  Market  Place,  the  ruas  da  Liberdade,  Santo 
Amaro,  da  ConsolaQao.  The  hist  three  lead  to  the  splendid 
Avenue  Paulista,  with  shaded  parkway  along  the  center,  the 
finest  boulevard  of  the  capital,  on  which  are  many  of  the 
handsomest  residences.  Of  course  the  city  has  electric  lights 
and  cars,  and  many  miles  of  fine  asphalt  pavements,  though 
in  the  outskirts,  on  account  of  the  city's  rapid  growth,  there 
may  be  a  few  streets  yet  unpaved,  which  should  be  avoided. 
Automobiles  and  fine  carriages  are  numerous,  and  delightful 
drives  may  be  taken  to  see  the  fine  public  buildings  and  the 
multitude  of  charming  and  splendid  private  residences. 
From  a  residential  point  of  view  few  more  attractive  places 
will  be  found  anywhere.  The  many  churches  one  writer 
calls  magnificent,  another  says  only  the  modern  ones  are  of 
artistic  merit.  The  Cathedral,  the  churches  of  Sao  Pedro, 
8.  Gongalo,  and  Remedios  are  among  the  most  important. 

Many  of  the  fine  buildings  of  the  city  are  devoted  to  educa- 
tional purposes.  The  city  takes  especial  pride  in  its  Poly- 
technic School,  said  to  be  the  best  in  Brazil,  in  view  of  its 
fine  laboratories,  the  practical  character  of  the  studies,  and 
its  imposing  edifice  opened  in  1894.  Instruction  is  given  in 
architecture  and  in  civil,  industrial,  agricultural,  mechanical, 
and  electric  engineering.  Also  it  has  a  School  of  Chemistry, 
with  courses  in  dentistry  and  obstetrics.  The  Government 
maintains  a  Laiv  School  having  a  five  years'  course.  Its 
library  of  50,000  volumes  is  free  to  the  public.  About  the 
same  size  is  the  general  PuhJic  Library.  The  fine  large 
Normal  School,  overlooking  the  Praea  da  Republica,  occupies 
a  whole  square  near  the  center  of  the  city.  With  a  library 
of  12,000  volumes,  with  laboratories,  museums,  rooms  for 
manual  labor,  gymnastics,  and  military  exercises,  it  is  said  to 
be  equal  in  equipment  and  installation  to  any  in  America. 
A  kindergarten,  equal  to  the  best  in  any  part  of  the  world, 
occupies  an  annex.  A  Commercial  School  for  training  book- 
keepers and  tradesmen,  is  included  in  the  educational  system. 
A  spacious  building  east  of  the  Jardim  Publico  is  occupied 
by  the  Lyceum  of  Arts  and  Trades,  where  various  trades  are 
taught,  such  as  tailoring,  carpentery,  printing,  and  many 
others.     This  institution,  with  towards  1000  pupils,  is  sup- 


«   Hill     R, 


VPliCAX'iA    Mr>i:rM 


HOTKL    OF    IMMUJUANTS,    SAO    I'AILO 


SAO  PAULO  803 

ported  by  a  private  association.  Especially  notewortli}-  hy 
Americans  is  the  famous  Mackenzie  College,  opened  in  1892 
on  the  corner  of  rua  de  Sao  Joao  and  Ypirau^a.  Schools 
of  lower  grades  were  established  in  1870  by  Presby- 
terians, gradually  becoming  a  complete  graded  system  from 
kindergarten  to  high  school.  On  this  model  the  government 
schools  were  largely  planned  and  on  the  floor  of  the  Brazilian 
Congress  the  school  system  was  said  to  have  been  the  greatest 
factor  in  their  educational  development  of  the  last  twenty 
years.  The  college  was  the  first  of  American  fashion  in 
Brazil.  Coeducation  is  followed,  though  the  girls  live  else- 
where. The  Chamberlain  Dormitory  was  erected  in  1!)01  for 
the  boys.  The  President  of  the  College  is  Dr.  W.  A.  Wad- 
dell,  and  the  institntion  is  afliliated  with  \hp  Cniversity  of  the 
State  of  New  York. 

One  of  the  most  important  jioints  of  intei-est  in  Sao  Paulo, 
though  on  the  outskirts  of  the  city,  at  the  same  time  a  moiui- 
meut  and  an  institution  of  learning,  is  the  Ypiranga,  a  splen- 
did edifice  erected  in  1885  on  the  spot  where,  in  1822,  the 
Independence  of  Brazil  was  proclaimed.  As  it  is  regarded 
as  one  of  the  finest  structures  in  Brazil,  the  name  of  the  artist, 
Cavaliere  Tomaso  G.  Bezzi,  is  given.  The  building,  which 
fronts  on  a  broad  open  space,  houses  a  museum  with  treas- 
ures of  historical  and  scientific  interest,  many  curious  and 
valuable  relics,  and  fine  paintings  by  Brazilian  artists.  The 
beautiful  Park,  the  Javdim  Puhlico  or  Jardim  da  Luz,  will 
naturally  be  visited  by  every  one.  Directly  oppo.site  the  Luz 
Station,  created  by  Royal  Charter  in  1700,  it  was  first  opened 
in  1825.  Adorned  with  a  profusion  of  flowers,  trees,  a  i)i-etty 
lake,  and  other  decorations,  it  is  a  delightful  resort  for  resi- 
dent and  stranger. 

Well  worthy  of  a  visit  is  the  Hotel  of  Immigrant-'^,  a  large 
establishment  fitted  up  in  the  most  sanitary  and  approi)riate 
maimer.  Thousands  of  families  from  Kui-ope  are  here  wel- 
comed annually,  aiul  entertained  lVe»>  of  charge  for  a  short 
period.  A  Government  agent  speaking  their  language  meets 
the  strangers  on  their  arrival  in  Santos,  and  escorts  them 
to  this  Hotel.  Later  they  receive  free  transpoi-tation  to 
wherever  in  the  State  tluy  desire  to  go,  and  their  interests  are 


304  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

looked  after  by  a  board.  This  State  is  the  only  one  with  its 
own  especial  department  of  immigration  and  active  propa- 
ganda. 

High-grade  institutions  of  a  sanitary  character  are  numer- 
ous in  the  city,  as  a  Bacteriological,  a  Sero-therapic,  a  Pasteur, 
and  various  other  Institutes.  Fine  large  hospitals  for  general 
and  special  diseases,  and  for  colonists  of  various  nationalities, 
will  be  observed  in  an  extended  drive. 

Coffee.  If  time  permits,  the  tourist  will  surely  enjoy  a 
visit  to  a  great  coffee  plantation.  There  are  none  in  the 
immediate  vicinity  of  Sao  Paulo,  but  it  is  a  pleasant  journey 
of  80  miles  to  the  city  of  Campinas,  in  the  vicinity  of  which 
are  fazcndas  galore.  This  is  one  of  the  oldest  and  most 
flourishing  towns  of  the  State,  with  a  population  of  about 
50,000,  modern  and  prosperous,  well  paved  and  lighted,  with 
good  schools  and  a  fine  large  Cathedral. 

The  State  of  Sao  Paulo  now  furnishes  one-fourth  of  the 
world's  coffee  supply  and  this  section  is  one  of  the  largest 
producing  districts  in  Brazil.  Near  Campinas,  the  great 
fazenda  of  Baron  Geraldo  de  Rezende  will  charm  the  favored 
visitor.  A"  magnificent  house  and  gardens,  with  a  splendid 
collection  of  rare  orchids  and  800  varieties  of  roses,  are  a  not 
unnatural  possession  of  the  owner  of  half  a  million  coffee 
trees.  A  much  vaster  estate  but  too  remote  for  many  trav- 
elers to  inspect  is  that  of  the  coffee  king  of  the  world,  Col. 
Francisco  Schmidt.  Coming  as  a  colonist  to  this  state  he 
has  achieved  a  success  of  which  one  might  well  be  proud. 
Of  the  700,000,000  trees  in  the  State,  Col.  Schmidt  owns  more 
than  one  per  cent,  71/2  million.  On  the  various  planta- 
tions live  8000  people,  contented  and  prosperous;  a  school 
is  provided  for  each  village.  The  soil  and  climate  of  Sao 
Paulo  are  so  well  adapted  to  this  industry  that  the  crop  is 
several  times  as  heavy  to  the  acre  as  in  most  other  coffee 
growing  countries.  A  family  of  three  or  four  persons  can 
take  care  of  10,000  trees  and  by  cultivating  other  agricultural 
products  at  the  same  time  could  live  on  the  proceeds. 

In  1817  the  first  shipment  of  coffee  was  made  from  Brazil, 
about  6000  bags;  in  1906,  13  million  bags  were  exported, 
10  million  being  the  average.  The  consumption  of  coffee  in 
recent  years  has  wonderfully  increased.     Though  generally 


COFFEK  1  A/IN"  I)  A 


CUKKKE  TUtE 


SAO  PAULO  305 

considered  less  injurious  than  tea,  both  should  be  utterly 
tabooed  to  children  and  young  people.  To  persons  of  mature 
years  who  have  not  taken  it  earlier  to  their  injury,  its  mod- 
erate use  may  not  be  harmful,  in  some  cases  may  even  be 
beneficial.  In  humid  climates  it  seems  to  be  used  freely  with 
less  ill  effects  than  in  a  dry  and  bracing  air,  where  habitual 
stimulant  of  any  sort  may  be  undesirable. 

Althou^di  famed  for  its  coffee,  8ao  Paulo  can  produce 
almost  anything  else :  rice,  sugar,  cotton,  toljacco,  tea,  cocoa, 
wheat,  corn,  sweet  potatoes,  other  vegetables,  and  fodder 
plants  are  among  its  products.  Of  these,  the  marnicllada  dc 
cavallo,  is  called  the  most  nutritious  of  fodder  plants  known. 

From  Sao  Paulo  to  Kio  the  journey  may  be  made  by  land 
or  sea.  If  going  by  rail,  one  may  be  advised  to  take  the 
night  train,  on  the  ground  that  there  is  nothing  to  see,  that 
it  will  be  dusty,  and  that  the  ride  of  12  hours  is  a  long  and 
fatiguing  day's  journey;  the  distance  is  about  310  miles. 
Also  a  day  is  thus  gained  to  spend  either  at  Sfio  Paulo  or 
Rio.  On  the  other  hand,  some  persons  who  have  made  the 
trip  by  dayliglit  speak  of  it  with  enthusiasm.  In  the  early 
morning  one  passes  on  gentle  slopes  fields  of  glossy  green 
coffee  trees,  groves  of  oranges,  jungles  of  palms  and  bananas, 
with  enormous  clumps  of  feathery  bamboo,  and  little  towns 
on  the  hillsides.  At  the  stations  are  women  selling  fruit,  and 
negro  boys  with  trays  of  tiny  cups  of  black  coffee,  hot  and 
sweetened.  After  a  while  an  allui-ing  stream  is  passed,  with 
pleasant  towns.  I\Iidday  is  hot  and  dusty.  Farther  on  are 
reddish  grassy  slopes  and  in  climbing  the  wooded  ridge  many 
cattle  nuiy  be  visilile.  Higher  ascends  the  train,  the  valleys 
are  blue  below:  delightful  scenes  are  on  every  hand,  monn- 
tains  abrupt  and  fantastic  appear.  Yet  ever  there  is  soft 
rich  verdure;  at  last  comes  swift  descent  towards  a  panorama 
of  wonderful  loveliness.  At  dusk  the  train  rolls  into  Kio, 
W'here,  says  the  InvohinUinj  ChapcroUi ,  "All  the  dreams  ettme 
true." 


CHAPTER  XXIX 

RIO  DE  JANEIRO— BAY  AND  CITY 

Nearly  all  tourists,  whether  from  the  north  or  south,  will 
arrive  at  Rio  by  water.  Leaving  Santos  in  the  late  after- 
noon, on  a  fairly  swift  steamer,  one  is  liable,  unless  an  early 
riser,  to  find  the  ship  at  anchor  in  tlie  harbor  when  he  comes 
on  deck  in  the  morning.  But  if  never  at  other  times  eager 
to  see  the  sun  rise,  or  impatient  to  behold  beauties  which  are 
permanent  in  character,  let  every  one  who  has  the  smallest 
appreciation  of  glorious  scenery  be  awake  to  enjoy  the 
entrance  into  the  harbor  of  Rio,  which  to  many  will  be  the 
culminating  joy  of  the  whole  delightful  journey.  With  the 
good  fortune  to  approach  at  daybreak  under  propitious  skies 
this  magnificent  harbor,  unrivaled  upon  the  globe,  one  will 
rejoice  in  a  vision  of  splendor  surpassing  his  highest  con- 
ceptions of  beauty,  forever  to  be  treasured  among  his  choicest 
memories.  One  who  is  loath  to  lose  his  early  morning  nap 
may  fancy  that  to  view  the  spectacle  towards  sunset  as  one 
sails  away  homeward  will  answer  just  as  well ;  but  such  is  not 
the  case.  It  is  the  morning  light  on  the  triple  range  of  hills 
behind  the  city,  which  lies  west  of  the  entrance  to  the  bay, 
that  enhances  the  ever  charming  scene  to  a  spectacle  of 
unparalleled  loveliness. 

From  a  distance,  if  heaven  send  no  veil  of  mist,  will  be 
seen  on  the  landward  side  a  row  of  incomparable  titans 
guarding  the  city;  islands  also  appear:  on  the  right,  a  large 
flat  rock,  Ilha  Rasa,  bears  a  lighthouse  with  double  electric 
lights,  red  and  blue,  and  if  one  is  coming  from  the  north, 
the  Itaypu  Point  is  rounded  with  the  pretty  little  Father  and 
Mother  Islands  near;  approaching  from  Santos  these  appear 
farther  away  at  the  right.  The  lofty  hills  or  mountains  at 
the  left  attract  the  most  attention.     In  the  distant  blue  or 

306 


RIO  DE  JANEIRO  307 

purple,  a  gray  bald  head  called  Gavea  is  noticeable,  a  famous 
landmark  of  the  harbor,  in  the  profile  of  which  some  fancy 
a  resemblance  to  Washington,  "While  still  outside  the  harbor 
we  see  other  summits,  the  less  known  and  less  sharp  peak  of 
Andarahy,  more  distant,  Tijuca  and  tlie  Organ  Mts.,  and 
nearer,  at  the  right  of  Gavea,  the  world  famed  Corcovado 
Needle,  with  the  city  at  its  foot,  or  perhaps  we  should  say 
head,  since  the  point  of  the  needle,  the  smaller  end,  is  quite 
obviously  above.  Whatever  else  in  Rio  be  neglected,  the 
Corcovado  must  be  known  and  visited.  Other  cities  have 
boulevards,  if  less  beautiful,  fine  buildings  and  parks;  but 
there  is  one  Corcovado  in  all  the  world.  Still  approaching 
the  narrow  harbor  entrance  we  have  glimpses  of  the  city 
close  to  the  portal,  and  notice  that  its  suburbs  even  stretch 
to  the  ocean  and  along  splendid  beaches  quite  to  the  foot  of 
Gavea;  while  on  the  opposite  shore  also  are  many  dwellings. 
Long  before,  we  have  admired  the  celebrated  riio  de  Assucar 
(loaf  of  sugar),  a  striking  and  enormous  conical  rock  over 
1300  feet  high,  standing  forth  boldly  into  the  channel  en- 
trance, which  it  guards  upon  the  left,  while  opposite  on  the 
right  a  rough  rock  promontory,  together  with  the  Assucar, 
forms  a  splendid  gateway. 

Not  merely  rock  protection  has  Rio  but  in  these  days  of 
jealous  strife  she  must  needs  possess  grim  fortresses  also; 
on  the  right  Imbuhy  and  Santa  Cruz,  on  the  left  Sao  Joiio 
and  Mallet.  The  multitude  of  peaks  and  heights  around  the 
city  a  Brazilian  writer  speaks  of  as  ''a  lively  guard  ju-odueed 
by  the  contortions  of  a  cataclysm."  To  him  everything 
seems  dancing.  In  truth  when  the  heavenly  tints  of  sunrise 
are  added  to  the  wondrous  shapes  and  hues  of  ordinary  day, 
the  picture  has  an  unearthly  beauty  which  no  tongue  or  pen 
can  describe. 

As  we  pass  the  Assucar  close  at  hand,  we  perceive  that 
while  the  other  rock  faces  are  smootii,  bare,  and  practically 
perpendicular,  this  side  is  rough  and  shows  a  bit  of  green, 
no  doubt  the  slope  where  once  the  a.scent  was  made,  so  the 
story  goes,  by  a  hardy  Englishman  who  planted  on  the  sum- 
mit a  British  flag.  A  great  hue  and  cry  followed  this  daring 
act.  A  reward  w;is  olTered  to  any  one  who  would  fetch  tlu! 
banner  down.     The  bribe  was  vain,  till  at  length  the  eidprit, 


308  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

detected,  liimsell'  removed  the  offending  colors  from  the  staff 
wliich  long  remained  ahove. 

Just  beyond  the  Assucar,  on  the  curving  shore,  Ave  see  a 
part  of  the  fashionable  residence  district.  On  the  edge  of 
the  first  deep  bay,  a  large  building  devoted  to  the  Ministry 
of  Agriculture  may  be  distinguished,  and  close  by,  the  Benj. 
Constant  Institute  and  the  National  Hospital  for  the  Insane. 
On  the  eastern  shore  of  the  bay  is  Jurujuba,  the  hospital  for 
epidemic  diseases,  the  pretty  beach  of  Icarahy,  then  Nictheroy, 
a  ])Ieasant  town,  capital  of  the  State  of  Rio ;  for  the  City  of 
Rio  de  Janeiro  is  a  Federated  Capital  like  Washington. 

This  Avonderful  bay,  opening  towards  the  south,  contains 
an  extraordinary  number  of  fascinating  little  ones  of  grace- 
ful outline,  with  which  acquaintance  should  be  made  later. 
Attention  is  now  directed  to  the  wooded  slopes  and  rock  cliffs 
of  the  serried  peaks  and  mountain  ranges,  to  the  smiling  city, 
to  the  blue  waters  thickly  sprinkled  with  ships,  and  dotted 
with  islands.  The  bay  has  the  name  Guana'bara,  as  well  as 
the  more  familiar  one,  Rio  de  Janeiro;  the  former  an  Indian 
name,  arm  of  the  sea,  now  more  frequently  applied  to  the 
inner  and  larger  portion  of  the  gulf;  the  latter  given  by 
mistake  when  it  was  first  visited  January  1,  1502,  by  Gonzalo 
Coelho,  who  without  sufficient  exploration,  supposing  it  to  be 
the  estuary  of  a  great  river,  called  it  Rio  de  Janeiro,  River  of 
January.  From  this  the  people  later  were  called  Flumin- 
enses  or  River  Folk. 

In  1531  the  French  took  possession  of  the  bay,  to  be  driven  out 
soon  after  by  Affonso  de  Soiisa  who  erected  a  small  fort.  The 
French  returning-  in  1555  i;nder  the  command  of  Yillegaignon  ef- 
fected an  entrance  to  the  bay,  fortified  an  island  and  established  a 
colony  largeW  of  Huguenots  who  maintained  very  friendly  rela- 
tions with  the  Indians;  but  in  1560,  Mem  de  Sa,  the  Goveraoi-- 
Gcneral  of  Brazil  in  Bahia,  which  was  earlier  settled,  estab- 
lished a  fort  on  the  peninsula  in  front  of  the  Sugar  Loaf,  Sao 
Joao,  and  captured  the  island  stronghold  of  the  French,  who,  re- 
treating to  the  mainland,  there  remained  Avith  the  support  of  the 
Indians.  In  1567  Estacio  de  Sa,  nejaheAV  of  Mem,  arrived  Avith  re- 
inforcements. After  much  fighting-,  concluded  by  a  fierce  battle 
betAveen  the  Morros  (hills)  da  Gloria  and  da  Yiuva,  when  the 
French  and  Indians  were  routed,  the  site  of  Rio  fell  into  the  pos- 
session of  the  Portuguese.     On  the  death  of  Estacio  from  a  wound 


RIO  DE  JANEIRO  309 

received  in  the  last  battle,  Mem  de  Sa  founded  a  city  which  he  called 
Sao  Sebastiau.  This  he  left  in  charge  of  his  nephew  C'urreia  de  Sa 
on  the  Morro  do  Castello. 

Once  more,  in  1710,  the  French  returned.  They  entered  the  town, 
but  in  the  streets  were  assaulted  so  fiercely  that  they  capitulated. 
After  their  commander  Du  Clerc  had  been  mysteriously  assassinated, 
another  Fi'ench  fleet  arrivinfr  defeated  the  Portuguese;  but  after  tak- 
ing possession  of  the  city  later  withdrew  on  receiving  a  heavy  in- 
demnity. 

In  17G2  or  '03  Rio  was  made  the  Capital  of  Brazil  and  the  resi- 
dence of  the  Viceroy  in  the  place  of  Bahia;  partly  tlimugh  the  ell'orts 
of  Gomes  Freire  de  Andrade,  Count  of  Bobadella.  During  his  ad- 
ministration a  notable  work  was  achieved,  the  construction  of  the 
great  aqueduct  of  Santa  Theresa,  by  which  water  was  brought  from 
the  Carioca  Kiver  to  the  center  of  the  cit}'.  It  crossed  a  jiart  of  the 
town  on  a  double  archway,  which  now  bears  a  tramway.  Other  im- 
provements followed,  including  the  draining  of  the  great  marshes,  in 
the  section  near  the  present  Mangue  Canal.  By  the  close  of  the 
eighteenth  century  Kio  was  not  only  the  chief  city  of  Brazil  but  the 
largest  and  most  important  of  South  America.  Not  so  favoi'abiy  lo- 
cated as  to  back  country  as  some  others,  especially  Sao  Pauht,  its 
fine  harbor  gave  it  commercial  importance,  greatly  increased  by  the 
discovery  of  gold  and  precious  stones  in  the  State  of  Minas,  as  by 
this  port  most  of  the  adventurers  entered,  thence  following  a  long 
Indian  trail. 

When  the  Koyal  family  arrived  from  Portugal  in  ISOS  the  city,  the 
largest  in  South  America,  had  forty-six  streets,  nineteen  open  sipiarcs, 
many  churches,  and  the  usual  public  buildings.  Its  growtii,  though 
continuous,  has  been  hampered  until  the  last  decade  by  the  unhealth- 
fulness  of  the  city,  especially  the  scourge  of  yellow  fever,  also  by 
wars,  extravagance,  and  other  troubles.  With  the  reorganization  of 
the  finances  of  the  eountiy  and  the  establishing  of  its  credit  during 
the  Presidency  of  Dr.  Camjios  Salles  lSOS-inO'2,  the  regeneration 
of  the  city  undci*  the  hitcr  Presidents  was  made  ]iossiI)le  and  the  ex- 
penditure of  .tlO(),0()0,()()0  for  improvements  in  the  Federal  District 
within  the  last  ten  years.  On  the  most  charming  site  iniaginaljlc  a 
new  and  splendid  city  has  been  created  which,  still  in  the  jiroccss  of 
transformation,  soon  will  even  better  compare  with  its  miiciucly  beau- 
tiful surroundings. 

To  Olio  entering  the  bay,  wliidi  is  nearly  100  niih^s  in  cir- 
cnnifci-enco,  its  great  siz(>  is  not  apparent,  as  the  large  inner 
sea  is  ent  o(V  by  ])oints  and  islands  in  such  a  way  that  the 
shape  and  magnitude  of  the  entire  gulf  is  undisclosed.     Its 


310  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

configuration  as  a  whole  is  remarkably  like  that  of  the  coun- 
try, roughly  triangular  with  the  apex  at  the  south.  Among 
the  numerous  islands,  three  close  to  the  shore  may  be  par- 
ticularly noticed :  the  Island  Cobras  with  a  fort  where  polit- 
ical ]irisoners  have  been  confined ;  the  Fiscal  Island  upon 
which  is  a  pretty  Gothic  structure,  headquarters  of  the  Cus- 
tom House  inspectors,  hence  the  name;  and  Villegaignon, 
named  for  its  first  settler,  also  bearing  a  fortress. 

Your  ship  after  sailing  past  a  good  part  of  the  city  comes 
alongside  a  wharf  near  the  north  end  of  Avenida  Rio  Branco, 
at  about  the  centre  of  the  business  quarter,  instead  of  proceed- 
ing as  formerly  to  a  remote  section  of  the  new  and  splendid 
docks  which  extend  two  miles  or  more  along  the  water  front  to 
the  west.  All  about  are  ships  of  every  size  and  as  usual  of  al- 
most every  nationality  except  our  own.  Once  indeed  I  saw 
here  the  Stars  and  Stripes,  floating  above  the  deck  of  a 
schooner  from  Maine,  on  its  annual  visit  to  bring  ice  and  ap- 
ples from  that  cooler  clime.  Yachts  and  launches,  pretty  and 
plain,  gasoline  and  rowboats  flit  about,  among  ships  of  larger 
size,  at  anchor  or  sailing,  two  of  these  probably  the  great  Bra- 
zilian warships,  the  Minas,  and  Sao  Paulo,  a  few  years  ago  the 
scene  of  serious  unpleasantness  due  to  a  marine  insurrection. 

The  city,  stretching  for  miles  along  the  curving  shore, 
presents  a  most  attractive  sight.  With  corresponding  depth 
its  size  would  be  immense,  but  its  width  is  barred,  as  effect- 
ively as  is  New  York's  by  its  two  rivers,  by  the  high  steep 
range  which  leaves  small  space  between  its  foot  and  the  sea ; 
indeed,  it  thrusts  forward  several  sharp  projections  quite  into 
the  water,  and  chains  of  modest  hills  over  which  the 
dwellings  climb.  Thus  the  city  is  subdivided  into  many  sec- 
tions, to  which  one  may  proceed  only  in  a  roundabout  man- 
ner. Straggling  in  a  charming  way  over  the  level  patches 
of  ground  and  part  way  up  the  lower  slopes  of  some  parts  of 
the  lofty  rearward  rampart,  it  affords  room  for  a  population 
now  practically  a  million,  with  plenty  of  space  for  more. 
The  second  city  in  the  Southern  Hemisphere,  the  fifth  in  all 
America,  though  older  than  any  in  the  United  States,  its 
modern  growth  and  development  have  been  brief  and  rapid. 

But  without  more  ado  we  must  hasten  ashore  and  have  a 
closer  look  at  the  beauties  spread  before  us.     Formerly,  land- 


RIO  DK  JANEIRO  311 

ing  at  the  docks  beyond,  one  had  a  f:linipse  of  the  fine  ware- 
houses and  tlie  splendid  broad  avenue  ])t'hind  them  with 
passing  electric  cars  which  brought  the  traveler  in  twenty 
minutes  to  the  centre  of  the  city,  and  to  the  Alfandega,  the 
Custom  House.  Xow,  however,  the  landing  place  is  in  a  more 
convenient  location.  Also  the  passenger  is  not  oljligcd  to  go 
to  the  Alfandega  at  all.  His  baggage  is  removed  from  tiie  ship 
to  a  new  depository  called  Bagagem  where  it  is  examined  by 
the  customs  officials  as  soon  as  they  receive  the  list  of  the  dis- 
embarking jiassengers.  Thus  is  avoided  the  delay  often  ex- 
perienced previously. 

It  maj'  here  be  mentioned  that  if  friends  wish  to  accompany 
departing  passengers  on  board  the  steamer,  they  must  procure 
a  permit  at  the  Custom  House,  paying  200  reis,  six  cents,  each 
for  the  privilege. 

Hotels  and  Restauraxts 

Hotels.  The  Avenida,  Avenida  Rio  Branco;  Estrangciros,  Pra^u 
J.  de  Alenear;  Internacional,  Sylvestre;  Central,  Beira  Mar;  Amer- 
ica, Cattete;  France,  Praga  15  de  Noveaibro;  Tijuca  (Tijuca) ; 
Grande,  Lapa;  Gloho,  Primeiro  do  Mar^o;  Fensao  Suissa,  Largo  da 
Gloria;  Beau-sejour,  Rua  Acquedueto. 

Restaurants.  Frankiskaner,  Avoiiida  Rio  Rraneo^  152;  Ileim,  A.s- 
semblea,  119;  Londres,  Assemblea,  115;  I'ari^i,  Urumiayaiia,  41;  and 
others. 

United  States  Consulate,  Avenida  Rio  Branco.  117;  Embassy,  Beira 
Mar.     British  Consulate:  Rua  General  Cauiara  12. 

Churches.  Biitish,  Rua  Evaristo  da  Viega ;  American  Methodist, 
Rua  Conde  de  Baependy. — Y.  M.  C.  A.  Building,  Rua  da  Quilanda 
47. 

Money.  A  niilreis  is  33  cents;  100  reis  3  1/3  cents;  a  conto  is 
1000  niilreis,  written  lOOO.f. 

Taxis.  (For  one  or  two  ]iersons),  fii-st  iiour  S.f;  second,  4.+. 
Coui-se  about  a  mile  l..t400,  for  each  (piarter  mile  after.  200  reis. 

Carriages.  Tiie.se,  i)ractically  superseded  l)y  tlic  automobiles,  are 
now  rarely  seen. 

Postage.     Two  hundred  reis  to  the  United  States  or  Europe. 

Lanyuau^e  s|)oken,  Portui,'ucse;  also  often  French.  Spanish  ^'cn- 
erally  understood. 

CniEF  Points  of  Intere.st 

Avenida  Rio  Branco,  the  National  Eil)raiy,  tiie  Fine  AHs  Mu- 
seum, the  Cathedral,  and  the  CaMdclaria   ("iuii-ch,  the   Pra(,'as  15  of 


312  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

November,  and  liei)ubli(';i,  llie  I'asseio  i'liblico,  tlie  Heira  Mar,  the 
Botanical  Garden,  the  Pao  de  Assucar,  and — Coucovado. 

It  is  a  groat  advantage  to  have  selected  one's  hotel  in 
advance  and  to  have  rooms  engaged,  as  the  three  leading 
establishments  are  a  long  way  apart. 

The  carregadores  who  have  numbers  on  their  hats  may 
usually  be  relied  upon  to  bring  in  time  your  baggage  to  its  des- 
tination. Some  haggling  over  the  price  is  usual,  as  large  fees 
are  demanded;  not  too  large  perhaps  for  those  who  carry 
them  on  foot,  but  more  than  an  ordinary  express  company 
would  ask  for  the  same  distance.  The  carregadores  carry  suit 
cases  and  other  small  packages,  several  of  them,  on  their 
heads,  at  least  to  the  cars,  where  they  must  pay  their  fare. 
Also  it  must  be  said  that  baggage  is  not  allowed  in  electrics 
of  the  first  class  (I  did  once  smuggle  a  suit  case)  nor — make 
a  note  of  this — is  any  man  allowed  without  a  coat,  however 
hot  the  weather.  Even  on  the  street  a  gentleman  under  no 
circumstances  is  expected  to  carry  his  coat  over  his  arm. 
One  American  who  did  so  was  politely  accosted  by  a  Brazil- 
ian who  said,  "Man,  coat  put  on!"  in  the  best  English  he 
could  muster.  Two  milreis  would  be  charged  for  two  or 
three  pieces  of  hand  baggage  to  the  Avenida  Hotel  and  four 
or  five  for  a  trunk,  which  may  be  pushed  in  a  hand-cart ; 
double  to  the  Estrangeiros,  less  to  the  Suissa.  For  the  Inter- 
nacional  Hotel,  the  Express  Company  must  be  employed,  but 
with  that  there  may  be  considerable  delay.  Each  hotel  has 
its  own  especial  merit,  which  to  some  minds  would  outweigh 
all  others  and  render  possible  a  decision  without  personal 
observation;  many  will  prefer  to  spy  out  the  land  for  them- 
selves. It  has  been  said  that  there  is  no  really  first-class 
hotel  in  Rio ;  one  which  has  been  constructed  on  the  Avenida 
with  accommodations  for  1200  visitors,  had  not  been  opened 
in  1916.  As  hotels  are  liable  to  be  full,  it  is  wase  to  telephone 
before  going  to  look  at  rooms. 

First  may  be  mentioned  the  Hotel  Avenida,  A.  P.  12-15$000 
up,  not  because  it  is  the  best,  but  as  being  in  the  center 
of  things,  right  on  the  main  business  street,  the  new  Avenida 
Rio  Branco.  ^lany  lines  of  electric  cars  start  from  beneath 
its  portico  and  nearly  all  the  others  pass  within  one  or  two 


RIO  DE  JANEIRO  :n:j 

blocks.  Naturally  it  is  noisy  but  persons  accustomed  to  our 
city  streets  will  hardly  mind.  This  hotel,  having  a  restau- 
rant with  all  night  service  and  music  every  evening,  is  the 
largest  in  Brazil.  Most  English  speaking  tourists,  however, 
prefer  one  of  the  others.  The  Hotel  dos  Estraugciros,  the 
Strangers',  is  a  large  establishment  facing  the  Praca  Jose  de 
Alencar,  a  charming  ride  of  15  minutes  from  the  Hotel 
Avenida  in  the  direction  of  Ihe  Assucar,  mostly  along  Ihc 
boulevai'd  by  the  sea  called  the  Beira  ^lar.  The  hotel  is  two 
blocks  from  the  water,  which  is  visible  from  the  upper  win- 
dows of  the  rear  building.  The  table  is  fair;  the  price  A.  P. 
is  12  to  15$000  or  more.  0])port unity  for  sea  bathing  is 
near;  hot  and  cold  baths  are  extra,  but  showers  are  free.  The 
Intcrnacwnal  Hotel,  wliich  seems  more  out  of  the  city,  is  rec- 
ommended as  cooler  in  the  hot  season,  from  October  to  April, 
and  is  by  many  preferred  at  any  time,  on  account  of  its 
delightful  situation  1000  feet  above  the  sea  on  the  way  to 
Corcovado.  Though  the  ride  is  but  ten  minutes  longer,  the 
cars  do  not  go  so  often  as  to  the  Estrangeiros,  which  is  served 
by  all  the  cars  of  the  -lardim  Botanieo  Co.,  these  passing  in 
an  almost  contiinious  row  nndcr  the  Hotel  Avenida.  The 
cars  to  the  Internacional  set  out  once  in  20  minutes  from 
the  farther  side  of  the  Praga  de  Carioca,  a  Square  just  behind 
the  Hotel  Avenida;  the  invisible  starting  point  is  around  at 
the  back  of  a  certain  building.  This  lino,  called  tlu'  Santa 
Theresa,  goes  by  the  rua  do  Aqueducto  over  the  arches  which 
once  bore  the  aqueduct,  across  a  portion  of  the  city  from 
a  hill,  the  Morro  de  Sto.  Antonio,  to  that  of  Sta.  Theresa,  the 
latter  being  rather  a  ridge  extending  fi-om  the  peak  of  Corco- 
vado. On  the  steep  slope  of  the  ridge  the  Inteinacional  is 
situated,  where  the  nights  are  ever  comfortable,  while  the 
journey  to  and  fro  is  always  a  deliglit.  The  liotel  has  many 
suites  of  rooms  and  bath  with  hot  and  cold  water.  Rates 
similar  to  the  others.  The  new  Until  Central  on  the  Beira 
Mar  near  the  Estrangeiios  has  rooms  in  suites  with  private 
baths,  a  fine  location,  and  is  highly  spoken  of.  From  this  hotel 
and  the  Estrangeiros  persons  so  inclined  may  join  tlie  throng 
of  people  who  in  the  early  morning  come  in  l>;ifliing  suits  from 
homes  near  by  to  enjoy  a  dif)  in  the  briny  deep. 

Should  one  prefei-  a  JiKire  nHidcst  (••st.ililishment  with  lower 


314  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

prices,  a  finer  outlook  than  some  of  the  others,  and  more 
conveniently  located  than  any  but  the  Avenida,  he  may 
go  to  the  Pensao  Suissa,  kept  by  a  motherly  Swiss  Frau, 
hardly  ten  minutes  from  the  Avenida  by  any  of  the  Jardim 
Botanico  lines,  and  looking  out  upon  the  bay,  the  Gloria 
hill,  the  lovely  Beira  Mar.  The  rooms  are  as  neat  as  possible, 
so  that  I  was  able  to  reply  to  a  gentleman's  query  as  to  red 
ants  that  I  had  seen  none,  which  seemed  to  him  a  great  sur- 
prise, as  he  supposed  that  every  dwelling  in  Rio  contained 
them.  The  various  other  hotels  and  pensions  are  not  without 
merit  and  patrons. 

One  may  generally  get  settled  in  his  hotel  in  time  for  the 
noon  meal,  though  the  luggage  is  not  likely  to  arrive  before 
the  middle  of  the  afternoon.  Yet  the  time  should  be  im- 
proved, either  by  sight-seeing  in  the  middle  of  the  city,  or 
if  one  is  tired  by  a  ride  to  some  of  the  suburbs.  A  few 
tourists,  caring  little  for  the  commercial  and  business  section 
of  the  city,  devote  their  entire  time  to  the  wonders  of  the 
jewel's  marvellous  setting.  The  center  of  the  city  should  not, 
however,  be  ignored.  Yet  a  ride  in  car  or  automobile, 
according  to  the  length  of  the  purse,  will  be  a  delightful 
beginning  for  the  eager  tourist.  In  an  auto  one  may  skim 
over  a  great  part  of  the  city's  boulevards  in  a  single  after- 
noon. Our  admiration  for  these  magnificent  drives  and  park- 
ways, unsurpassed  in  the  world  in  their  opportunities  for 
delightsome  hours,  will  be  heightened  if  we  are  mindful  of 
the  astonishing  transformation  which  has  here  been  wrought 
within  the  last  decade.  In  1903  Rio  was  a  dirty,  not  to  say 
filthy,  city  of  narrow  streets,  a  place  to  be  shunned,  as  often  a 
hot  bed  of  yellow  fever.  For  its  regeneration  various  plans 
had  previously  been  proposed,  but  President  Rodrigues  Alves 
was  the  man  who  put  one  of  these  into  execution. 

The  slowness  of  Latin  Americans  (in  fact  of  every  one 
but  themselves),  so  favorite  a  theme  in  the  talk  of  their 
northern  neighbors,  does  not  appear  in  this  instance.  It 
would  puzzle  us,  I  think,  to  find  in  the  United  States  any 
city,  save  San  Francisco  when  necessity  compelled,  where 
by  works  of  such  magnitude  a  great  city  has  so  speedily  been 
metamorphosed  through  the  destruction,  replanning,  and  re- 
building of  some  of  the  most  compact  and  important  busi- 


AVENIDA    UK    HIO    HUANCO 


BODLEVAUD    IlKIKA    MAU    KUuM     rK.NSAU    SUI8SA 


RIO  DE  JANEIRO  315 

ness  and  residence  sections.  Nearly  $60,000,000  was  devoted 
to  this  great  transformation. 

The  phin  which  was  approved  in  September,  1903,  inchided 
the  construction  of  a  great  quay  arranged  for  ships  to  come 
alongside,  furnished  with  storage  warehouses,  railways,  and 
electric  lights,  with  a  parallel  avenue  125  feet  wide  and  2 
miles  long;  the  improving  of  a  cross  canal  to  the  sea  hy 
making  it  a  solidly  walled  stream,  with  on  each  side  an  ave- 
nue shaded  with  palms;  the  lifting  of  the  railroad  from  street 
level  to  a  viaduct  16  feet  above;  the  construction  of  a  broad 
avenue  straight  to  the  Quinta  of  Boa  Vista,  residence  of  the 
late  Emperor;  the  increase  of  the  water  supply;  the  renova- 
tion of  the  sewerage  system  with  all  modern  improvements; 
the  removal  of  several  hills;  the  filling  in  of  large  sections; 
the  widening  of  a  number  of  streets;  and  the  formation  in 
the  heart  of  the  city  of  a  new  avenue  a  mile  and  a  quarter 
long  and  120  feet  wide. 

The  inauguration  of  the  great  work  of  the  Avenida  Cen- 
tral, as  it  was  originally  called,  a  broad  thoroughfare  cross- 
ing, from  one  side  to  the  other,  the  shallow  peninsula  oc- 
cupied by  the  commercial  district,  on  the  front  of  which  is 
Caes  Pharoux,  occurred  JMarch  8,  1904,  with  the  participation 
of  the  President  and  other  officials  and  with  much  enthusiasm 
on  the  part  of  the  people;  as  a  broad  outlet  for  the  future 
traffic  of  the  port  was  seen  to  be  an  absolute  necessity.  The 
foundations  of  the  building  numbered  2,  4  and  6  being  then 
begun,  the  great  task  was  swiftly  advanced.  Day  and  night 
was  the  work  pushed;  600  buildings  within  three  months 
were,  by  3000  workmen,  utterly  demolished,  ojx'uing  a  space 
230  feet  wide:  65  feet  each  side  for  the  new  buildings,  120 
for  the  central  paved  i-oadway,  and  20  for  eacii  siiU'walk. 
Along  the  center  of  the  avenue  a  row  of  53  Pao  Brazil  trees 
was  planted  in  beds  16  feet  long,  and  55  posts  bear  each  3 
electi'ic  lights.  On  the  sidewalks  are  more  trees,  and  posts 
for  illumination  by  gas.  As  the  trees  grow  larger  the  beauty 
of  the  avenue  will  ])e  increased.  Most  of  tin;  new  buihiings, 
which  mark  the  introduction  into  Pra/il  of  American  steel 
fi'ame  construction,  are  of  line  types  of  ai-chitcctni-c  in  a 
variety  of  styles. 

In  other  sections  1200  old  buildings  were  .saciiticd  to  (>|)cn 


3-16  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

or  widen  a  dozen  other  streets,  these  now  from  55  to  100  feet 
wide,  paved  with  asphalt  or  in  a  few  eases  with  fine  granite 
blocks.     On  all  sides  new  buildings  sprang  up  by  magic. 

Of  still  greater  magnitude  and  requiring  more  time  was 
the  improvement  of  the  port,  now  approaching  completion. ' 
The  stone  quay  more  than  two  miles  in  length,  with  sufficient 
depth  of  water  to  allow  ships  of  any  draught  to  come  along- 
side, is  provided  with  the  most  modern  machinery  for  hoist- 
ing, loading  and  unloading  ships,  and  with  two  stations  sup- 
plying electric  power  for  these  as  well  as  for  lighting  already 
in  service.  Back  of  the  wall,  a  space  where  formerly  were 
bays  and  islands  has  been  for  the  most  part  filled  in,  at  some 
points  for  a  wddth  of  800  feet.  Then  along  the  quay  a  broad 
avenue  was  opened.  A  width  of  80  feet  for  railroad  tracks,  of 
110  feet  for  storage  warehouses  (called  armazem)  and  for 
administration  offices,  is  followed  by  the  broad  well  paved 
avenue  125  feet  wide,  bordered  wdth  trees  and  with  double 
tracks  for  electric  cars.  To  fill  in  this  great  space  sand  was 
dredged  from  the  bay,  and  earth  was  brought  from  Senado 
Hill,  now  completely  leveled. 

While  these  great  matters  w^ere  undertaken  by  the  general 
Government,  the  new  ]\Iayor  of  Rio,  Dr.  Francisco  Passos, 
attended  to  the  broadening-  of  other  streets,  repaying  with 
asphalt  or  with  granite  blocks;  to  the  embellishing  of  the 
city  with  gardens,  etc.,  and  to  the  construction  of  the  beau- 
tiful boulevard  four  miles  long  and  110  feet  wide  along  the 
water  front  towards  the  Pao  de  Assucar.  Even  the  resur- 
rection of  San  Francisco  in  one  way  seems  less  wonderful 
than  Rio 's  transformation,  in  that  the  former  was  compulsory, 
the  latter  voluntary.  The  greatest  w^ork  in  Rio  was  more  in 
preparing  anew  the  foundations  than  in  the  actual  con- 
struction. It  was,  says  the  Brazilian  writer  from  whom  I 
have  already  quoted,  "the  work  of  an  enterprise."  lie 
modestly  says  that  there  is  nothing  especial  to  say  about  the 
buildings  of  Rio.  As  to  those  of  a  residential  character  he 
asserts  that  some  are  nice,  "but  the  majority  of  them  is  an 
awful  sight  reminding  antiquity."  To  me  they  did  not  so 
appear,  the  many  being  pretty  and  tasteful,  if  unpretentious, 
Avhile  the  dwellings  of  the  poorer  classes  are  less  hideous  than 
those  inhabited  by  the  poor  in  our  own  country. 


RIO  DE  JANEIRO  317 

"While  the  most  delightrul  of  the  hours  spent  in  Rio  may 
be  those  devoted  to  excursions  to  the  suburbs,  one  should 
visit  also  the  commercial  section,  the  public  buildings,  the 
shops,  the  market ;  and  traverse  some  of  the  streets,  wide  and 
narrow,  where  the  life  and  business  of  the  city  go  on.  A  day 
or  two  may  profitably  be  spent  in  the  busy  marts  of  trade. 

One  may  set  out  from  Caes  Pharoux,  to  which  suitable 
attention  will  hardly  be  given  when  landing.  Here  is  a  great 
Square  or  Plaza,  in  Portuguese  a  Praga,  that  of  Xovembcr 
15,  Quinze  de  Novcmbro.  At  the  right  as  you  face  the  water- 
front is  the  Ferry  House  for  the  boats  running  across  to 
Nictheroy.  From  here  also  depart  excursion  boats  on  Sun- 
day for  a  trip  around  the  bay.  The  Pra^a  has  the  usual 
pretty  garden  in  the  center,  with  a  bronze  equestrian  statue 
of  General  Osorio,  Marquez  do  Ilcrval,  one  of  the  command- 
ers in  the  Paraguayan  War,  and  also  leader  of  the  State 
forces  of  Rio  Grande  do  Sul  in  an  insurrection  against  the 
first  President  of  Brazil.  On  the  right  hand  side  of  the 
square,  as  one  faces  the  water,  near  the  Ferry  House,  is  a 
four-story  building  more  than  150  years  old,  of  typical  co- 
lonial architecture,  once  the  residence  of  an  aristocratic  fam- 
ily, now  a  lodging  house.  The  large  terra  cotta  building  is 
devoted  to  the  Ministry  of  Transportation.  The  two-story 
pink  building,  higlicr  in  the  center,  is  of  greater  interest. 
Erected  in  17-17  and  now  occupied  by  the  Dtpartmcnt  of 
Telegraphs,  it  was  first  the  home  of  the  Colonial  Governors; 
on  the  arrival  of  Prince  Joao  it  became  his  residence,  and 
later  served  as  the  Imperial  Palaee,  It  Mas  here  that  the 
Princess  Regent,  Isabella,  signed  the  Emancipation  Decree, 
May  13,  18S8,  as  a  tablet  on  the  wall  sets  fortli,  and  from  here 
the  Emperor  Uom  Pedro  was  taken,  Nov.  17,  LSSll,  to  be 
placed  upon  a  warship  and  l)anished  to  Eurojx',  after  the 
proclamation  of  llic  Krpublic,  Nov.  15. 

On  the  street,  rua  Dom  Manoel,  which  separates  these  two 
buildings,  next  to  the  Ministry  of  Transportation,  is  a  large 
green  edifice  which  iiouscs  the  Naval  Mus(  urn.  This  Must'um, 
founded  by  imperial  decree  in  ISGS,  was  opened  to  the  public 
in  1884  with  inaugurating  ceremonies  by  the  Emperor.  On 
tile  anniversary  of  the  battle  of  Riachuelo,  an  important  naval 
victory  in  the  Paraguayan  campaiirn,  the  museum   was  first 


318  tup:  s(jiri  ir  American  tour 

oi)eiied  in  its  present  quarters  Juue  11,  1898.  Free  entrance 
daily,  from  11  till  2,  except  Sundays  and  holidays.  The  first 
section  of  the  iiuiseuiu  contains  29  oil  paintings  of  Brazil's 
great  naval  battles,  15  of  these  by  the  celebrated  marine 
artist,  Chevallier  E.  de  Martino,  a  protege  of  Dom  Pedro  II, 
and  later  named  by  Queen  Victoria  Marine  Painter  to  the 
Court  of  England.  Picture  number  5,  of  the  battle  of 
Riachuelo,  is  considered  one  of  his  best  works.  In  the  second 
section  are  portraits  and  photographs  of  the  Ministers  of 
Marine  and  naval  heroes,  including  the  British  Admiral 
Cochrane,  who  also  helped  the  Spanish  Americans  in  their 
struggle  for  independence.  Becoming  Marquez  do  IMaranhao 
he  received  a  grant  of  land  now  held  by  his  heirs.  The  third 
section  contains  models  of  vessels,  from  the  new  Dreadnoughts 
down  to  canoes  and  fishing  boats.  The  fourth  contains  flags 
and  standards,  the  fifth,  samples  of  artillery,  cannon,  and 
projectiles,  the  sixth,  hand  weapons,  such  as  spears  and  rifles, 
the  seventh,  naval  and  Indian  relics  and  curios,  the  eighth, 
medals,  souvenirs,  etc. 

The  large  Praca  has  a  smaller  continuation  at  the  west, 
facing  which,  on  the  corner  of  rua  7th  of  September,  is  the 
Cathedral,  to  which  a  great  tower  is  now  being  added.  On 
the  other  side  is  a  larger  church  which  might  be  mistaken 
for  the  official  building.  Neither  is  especially  handsome, 
inside  or  out,  both  interiors  being  in  an  ornate  rococo  style 
which  may  be  admired  by  some.  The  Cathedral,  however,  has 
as  a  feature  of  historic  interest  a  slab  set  in  the  wall  at  the 
left  of  the  altar  bearing  an  inscription  in  memory  of  the 
discoverer,  Pedro  Alvares  Cabral,  whose  remains  were 
brought  from  Portugal  and  interred  in  the  wall  of  the  tower 
in  1903. 

The  Cathedral,  founded  in  early  colonial  days,  with  this 
tower  is  less  overshadowed  by  the  larger  Igreja  (Church) 
do  Carmo  on  its  right.  When  the  tower  foundations  were 
sunk,  a  stratum  of  sea  sand  was  struck  containing  fragments 
of  ancient  sea  craft,  showing  that  the  shore  is  now  greatly 
advanced.  The  completed  tower  will  be  the  highest  structure 
in  the  city.  With  clocks  on  three  sides  it  will  carry  a  chime 
of  bells,  the  largest  of  which,  weighing  21/0  tons,  was  cast  in 
Portugal  in  1621.     In  the  interior  of  the  Cathedral  is  a  fine 


RIO  DE  JANEIRO  :n9 

main  altar,  back  of  which  is  a  painting  of  the  Italian  School. 
Sul)-altars  to  the  Virgin  are  on  eacli  side  of  the  nave,  and  one 
to  Santa  Rosa  de  Lima,  Patron  of  South  America.  Near  the 
main  altar  is  the  throne  of  the  Cardinal  Archbishop,  and 
formerly  there  was  in  front  of  this  a  chair  of  state  for  the 
use  of  the  Emperor.  A  flag  carried  in  the  Paraguayan  "War 
by  the  regiment  of  Volunteers  of  tlie  country  is  near  the  high 
altar.  In  the  second  nielie  on  tlie  right,  to  one  entering,  is  a 
"Christ  of  the  Jury,"  torn  by  a  mob  of  Anti-Clericals  from  its 
place  in  the  Jury  Court.  Later  a  new  one  was  there  placed 
with  great  pomp  and  processions. 

On  the  other  side  of  rua  7th  of  September  is  a  large  white 
building  where  the  Commfrcial  Museum,  open  from  ten  to 
four,  may  be  visited.  Business  men  and  others  are  welcome, 
and  a  Bureau  of  Information  is  at  hand  for  tlie  service  of  com- 
mercial men  and  manufacturers.  Here  nuiy  be  studied  the 
coffee  grades  of  the  world's  great  markets,  the  decisions  of 
the  Tariff  Commission,  229  varieties  of  Brazilian  vegetable 
products,  including  dyes,  inks,  aromaties,  gums,  resins,  and 
foods,  with  many  medicinal  plants,  used  among  the  natives 
but  unknown  to  the  scientific  world.  Here  also  are  50  va- 
rieties of  fibres,  2000  varieties  of  Brazilian  wood,  ten  of  cot- 
ton, an  exhi])ition  of  the  process  of  rubber  making,  etc. 

In  this  building  was  formerly  the  Instituto  Ilistorico  e  Gco- 
graphico,  a  society  founded  in  1838  with  a  membership  from 
among  the  most  intellectual  men  of  the  country.  It  has  a 
large  collection  of  rare  books  and  manuscripts,  also  busts  of 
bronze  and  marble,  and  relics  of  various  kinds,  one  of  these 
the  old  Roda  or  wlieel  used  to  receive  children  at  the  Casa 
dos  Expostos.  This  hollow  wooden  cylindci-  willi  an  opening 
at  the  side  was  fixed  in  the  wall.  A  baby  migiit  easily  be 
deposited  within  and  the  wheel  pushed  around  carrying  the 
baby  inside,  when  a  bell  would  ring  in  the  convent  sunniion- 
ing  the  Sisters  to  receive  the  child.  The  Instituto  now  occu- 
pies a  fine  new  building  on  the  I'raia  da  Lapa. 

To  the  south  of  the  Praca  beyond  the  Ferry  IIou.se.  and 
close  to  the  water,  is  the  ever  interesting  Market  Place. 
Fruits,  fiowers,  birds,  meat,  V(>getables,  and  peojile.  all  merit 
attention,  as  do  the  well  constructed  booths  and  the  attractive 
cleanliness  of  the  place. 


320  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

From  this  square  many  lines  of  electric  railways  lead  in 
various  directions,  but  it  is  only  a  short  walk  to  the  Avenida 
by  the  street  at  the  corner  of  the  Cathedral,  or  by  several 
parallel  streets.  It  is  better  perhaps  first  to  turn  to  the  right 
and  follow  the  important  street,  Primeiro  de  Marco,  parallel 
to  the  bay  front.  On  this  street  is  the  Post  Office,  the  Bolsa 
or  Stock  Exchange,  of  Italian  style,  one  of  the  finest  build- 
ings of  the  city,  the  Bank  of  Commerce,  and  the  Supreme 
Court  edifice  of  beautiful  rose-colored  stone  and  marble, 
sumptuously  decorated  without  and  within.  The  Alfandega 
or  Custom  House,  of  a  green  color,  may  be  seen  from  this 
rua,  nearer  the  shore,  on  a  street  of  the  same  name.  From 
the  Primeiro  de  ]\Iarco  many  narrow  streets  lead  to  the 
Avenida,  which  some  of  them  cross,  among  these  the  Ouvidor, 
long  the  most  famous  thoroughfare  of  Rio  and  still  the  fash- 
ionable shopping  street.  Now  alas!  it  has  received  another 
name,  Moreira  Cesar,  so  you  may  look  in  vain  for  the  Ouvidor, 
though  every  one  still  calls  it  by  its  old  appellation.  This 
fascinating  little  street  is  hardly  20  feet  wide.  The  narrow 
sidewalks  are  almost  too  smooth  and  slippery  with  variously 
colored  tiles.  No  carts  or  carriages  are  allowed  in  the  street, 
the  center  of  which,  well  paved,  is  used  by  pedestrians.  The 
street  is  the  rendezvous  of  high  life,  as  well  as  of  idlers, 
students,  politicians,  and  tourists.  Here  are  the  most  elegant 
shops,  jewelry,  book  stores,  dry  goods,  etc.,  with  cafes  and 
clubhouses,  some  fine  buildings,  and  others  poor. 

But  before  crossing  by  this  to  the  Avenida,  the  Candelaria 
Church  a  little  to  the  north,  on  a  narrow  street  of  the  same 
name,  should  be  visited.  This,  called  the  richest  church  in 
Latin  America,  deserves  a  better  location  on  a  broad  plaza, 
rather  than  here  on  this  little  street.  The  edifice,  planned  and 
built  by  a  Brazilian  engineer,  Evaristo  da  Veiga,  has  three 
finely  carved  bronze  doors,  and  a  rich  and  elaborate  interior. 
Fine  marble  columns,  a  beautiful  ceiling  with  mosaic  decora- 
tions, and  fine  paintings  by  the  best  Brazilian  artists,  excite 
admiration. 


CHAPTER  XXX 

RIO  DE  JANEIKO— CONTINUED 

The  Avoiiida.  Rio  IJiaiu-o,  .so  called  since  the  recent  death 
of  the  famous  IJaroii  of  that  name,  formerly  the  Central, 
is  claimed  by  Brazilians  to  be  the  most  beautiful  street 
in  the  world.  Though,  from  one  or  another  point  of  view, 
other  partisans  may  dispute  its  pre-eminence,  there  is  no  ques- 
tion as  to  its  splendid  conslruetion  and  imposing  edifices, 
which  for  variety  and  beauty  it  would  be  difiicult  to  match 
within  the  same  distance  in  any  other  city.  Every  style  of 
architecture  is  represented,  ^Moorish,  Gothic,  Italian,  etc., 
with  varied  and  lovely  coloring.  ]\Iinarets  and  towers,  un- 
usual mosaic  sidewalks,  the  welcome  shade  and  friendly  green 
of  trees,  the  dashing  automobiles,  fashionable  and  beautiful 
women,  men  from  almost  every  clime  contribute  to  the  won- 
derful Avenida.  ^Made  to  order,  so  rapidly  as  to  take  one's 
breath,  it  is  indeed  a  notable,  a  marvellous  achievement: 
begun  in  1904,  finished  in  1906 ;  and  not  this  only,  but  the 
beautiful  Beira  ]\Iar  as  well.  It  seems  a  transformation  by 
magic.  To  mention  the  various  attractive  buildings  is  impos- 
sible. IMany  banks  and  important  eommereial  houses  may  be 
found  here,  buildings  of  the  leading  newspapers,  the  Jornal  do 
Contmcrcio,  the  Jornal  do  Brazil,  the  O  I'aiz,  and  conspicuous 
near  the  south  end,  the  National  Library  and  the  Art  Mu.^(  am 
on  the  left,  the  Municip(d  Tluatcr  on  the  right,  and  at  the 
very  end  on  the  right  the  Monroe  Palace. 

The  National  Library,  called  the  most  valuiililf  in  Souili 
America  and,  with  more  than  400,000  eatalogued  nuinbers.  the 
largest  south  of  the  etfuator,  is  housed  in  a  iiaiidsoiiie  building 
of  the  best  modern  eciuipment.  This  was  designed  and  con- 
structed by  the  ^layor,  (ieneral  Souza  Aguiar,  after  an  inspec- 
tion of  the  libraries  of  Europe  and  America.  It  contains  its 
own  dcpai'tineiits  ftir  jii-infiiig  and  biixling.  TIk^  famous 
Ajuda  Collection,  which   was   brought  over  by   Prince  Joao 

'321 


322  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

in  1806,  when  Napoleon's  army  invaded  Portugal,  was  the 
nucleus.  From  the  old  Carmelite  hosi)ital  in  the  rua  Primeiro 
de  Mar(;;o  it  was  moved  to  its  own  quarters  in  1810,  when  it 
already  numbered  60,000  volumes.  All  schools  and  periods 
of  typographic  art  may  here  be  found,  examples  of  Johann 
Fust  and  Peter  Sehoeffer,  Aldins  and  Plautius,  Ibarras, 
Elsivers,  and  many  others.  A  permanent  exhibition  has  been 
arranged  of  Books,  ]\Ianuscripts  and  Charts,  Engravings  and 
Prints,  Medals  and  Coins.  In  the  rarity  of  some  of  its  treas- 
ures, if  not  in  number,  the  collection  compares  with  the  fa- 
mous ones  of  Europe:  a  perfect  copy  of  the  Mazarin  Bible 
printed  in  1462,  the  first  from  movable  type,  the  first  edition 
of  the  New  Testament  by  Erasmus  of  Rotterdam,  1514,  a 
Novus  Orbis  Regionum  with  map  of  Brazil,  1532,  a  Roycroft 
Bible,  London  1557,  and  many  other  rarities.  Among  the  300 
engravings  and  prints  are  works  of  Diirer,  Cranach,  Rubens, 
etc.  With  over  100,000  prints  and  above  30,000  (many  rare) 
numismatic  specimens,  a  treat  is  afforded  to  the  specialist. 

The  reading  room,  wdiere  it  should  be,  on  the  main  floor, 
is  furnished  with  comfortable  leather-covered  armchairs  and 
individual  desks.  In  the  side  galleries  around  the  rotunda 
are  arranged  in  glass  cases  many  of  the  especial  gems  of  the 
rare  specimens.  In  the  great  stack  rooms,  I  observed  many 
books  in  English,  noticing  the  names  of  ]\Iark  Twain, 
Macaulay,  Dickens,  and  others.  The  finest  editions  of  the 
various  works  in  handsome  bindings  seem  to  have  been 
selected. 

The  library  is  open  from  ten  a.  m.  to  nine  p.  m.  with  the 
usual  exception  of  Sundays  and  holidays. 

Other  libraries  Avhicli  only  the  specialist  will  be  likely  to 
visit  are  the  Fluniinense  with  90,000  volumes,  on  the  Ouvidor, 
the  Libraries  of  the  Army,  and  of  the  Xavy,  that  of  the  Med- 
ical School  with  70,000  volumes,  of  the  Polytechnic  with 
70,000,  the  Senate  Library,  the  Congressional,  the  Gahinete 
Portuguez  de  Leitura,  occupying  a  beautiful  building  in  the 
rua  Luis  de  Camoes  near  San  Francisco  Square,  the  Com- 
merce Library  in  the  Stock  Exchange  Building,  and  others. 

Next  to  the  Bibliotheca  Nacional  on  the  Avenida  is  the 
Escola  de  Bellas  Artes,  the  Art  School  and  Museum.  Again 
the  collection  of  Prince  Joao  wa$  the  nucleus  to  which  many 


NATIONAL    LIUUAHY 


bCU'iuL    VI     UNI.    AUl- 


RIO  DE  JANEIRO  323 

accretions  have  been  made  by  Government  grant  and  by  pri- 
vate donations.  Among  original  works  of  tlie  old  masters 
of  various  schools  whit-h  are  here  to  be  seen  are  canvases  of 
Caracci,  Correggio,  Greuze,  Guido  Reni,  Jordaens,  Lucjus, 
Murillo,  Poussin,  Rubens,  Snyder,  Jan  Stein,  Teniers,  Tin- 
toretto, Van  Uyke,  Velascjuez,  Veronese,  Wouvermans,  and 
many  others,  besides  more  than  100  never  positively  iden- 
tified. Among  fine  pieces  of  sculpture  is  one  l)y  Rodnlpho 
Bernadelli  of  Christ  and  the  Adulteress.  A  large  number 
of  produetions  of  Brazilian  artists  is  also  included  in  the  col- 
lection, wliieh  is  said  to  be  the  largest  and  most  imixirtant 
in  South  America. 

Opposite  the  Fine  Arts  ]\Iuseum  is  the  Municipal  Thaihr, 
a  splendid  edifice,  facing  a  small  triangular  park,  with  one 
side  on   the  Avenida. 

The  theater,  like  the  Colon  in  Buenos  Aires,  is  fitted  up 
with  every  modern  improvement,  mechanical  and  electrical 
devices  above  and  ])elow  the  stage,  which  seems  almost  as 
large  as  the  auditorium,  with  rows  upon  rows  of  floor  drops 
to  give  the  dei)th  desired.  A  power  plant,  an  air  filtering 
and  cooling  plant,  and  what  is  called  the  most  beautiful  res- 
taurant in  South  America,  minister  to  the  comfort  of  the 
audience.  The  restaurant  of  Assyrian  style  in  details  follows 
Babylonian  originals  in  the  Louvre  of  Paris.  The  leather- 
covered  armchairs  in  the  auditorium,  of  unusual  width  and 
well  spaced,  are  especially  comfortable.  The  President,  of 
course,  is  provided  with  an  elegant  box,  communieating  with 
private  salon  and  dining-i'oom  on  the  tloor  below.  Modelled 
after  the  Paris  Opera  House,  though  a  trifle  smaller,  it  is 
richly  decorated.  Designed  and  built  by  Dr.  Franeisco 
Oliveira  Passos,  son  of  the  great  ^Ma.Nor  Passos.  during  whose 
administration  the  grand  transformation  of  the  city  was 
largely  effected,  the  theater  was  inaugurated  in  July,  inon, 
with  Rejane  and  an  all  star  Freneh  company.  It  is  now 
leased  to  an  impresario  who  must  produce  each  year  a  num- 
ber of  standard  plays,  some  in  Portuguese  translation,  and 
some  i)lays  by  native  dramatists,  further  encoui-aging  national 
art  by  conducting  a  dramatic  school.  Visitors  may  be  ad- 
mitted at  the  rear  entrance  between  ten  and  four  on  working 
days. 


324  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

At  the  very  end  of  the  Avenue,  not  far  from  the  Theater 
and  close  to  the  sea,  with  open  space  on  every  side,  stands 
the  Monroe  I'aldcc,  wliich  at  the  St.  Louis  Exposition  served 
as  the  lirazilian  headquarters,  and  here,  in  1906,  as  the  meet- 
ing place  for  the  second  Pan  American  Congress.  It  is  of  a 
rather  florid  type  of  architecture,  the  most  ornate  of  the 
buildings  on  the  Avenue. 

The  Monroe  Palace  has  one  entrance  on  the  Avenida  and 
one  on  the  opposite  side  towards  the  Passeio  Publico.  This 
most  ancient  of  the  public  gardens  of  Rio,  founded  in  1783, 
contains  vegetation  from  this  epoch,  hence  130  years  old.  It 
has  the  usual  beauties  of  tropical  parks,  trees,  s]irul)l)ery, 
flower  beds,  and  vines,  also  several  statues,  and  a  pretty  build- 
ing, entrance  1  milreis,  housing  a  collection  of  native  fishes. 
This  Marine  Aquarium,  installed  in  1904,  has  20  sections  with 
35  difli'erent  species;  among  these,  flying  fish,  feather  fish, 
turtles,  moon  fish,  crabs,  sea-horses,  varieties  of  lobsters,  and 
of  marine  plants.  A  pavilion,  affording  opportunity  for  rest 
and  the  purchase  of  refreshments,  supplies  also  music  and 
moving  pictures.  The  garden,  which  is  much  frequented, 
was  designed  by  a  native  artist,  Valentim  da  Fonseea  e  Silva, 
more  familiarly  known  as  mestre  Valentim.  The  artistic 
decoration  includes  two  statues,  Apollo  and  i\lercury,  the 
arms  of  Luiz  de  Vaseoneellos,  then  Viceroy,  the  bust  in  the 
fount  of  the  jacares,  and  two  granite  pyramids  inscribed 
1783,  A'  saudade  do  Rio  e  Ao  Amor  do  Puhlico. 

Busts  of  the  poets,  Goncalves  Dias,  and  Castro  Alves,  and 
of  the  journalist,  Ferreira  de  Aranjo,  founder  of  the  Gazeta 
de  Koiicias,  have  been  placed  in  the  garden.  At  the  main 
entrance  is  a  gilded  bronze  medallion  of  Queen  Maria  and 
her  consort,  Dom  Pedro  III. 

Among  the  important  streets  running  from  the  Praea  15th 
of  November  across  the  Avenida,  a  little  north  of  the  Hotel 
Avenida,  are  the  Assemblea  leading  to  the  Praca  da  Carioca, 
a  short  distance  from  the  Avenue,  and  the  rua  7th  of  Sep- 
tember leading  to  the  Praqa  Tirandcntes  farther  west.  The 
Garden  contains  an  admirable  statue,  by  the  French  sculptor 
Rochel,  of  Dom  Pedro  I,  founder  of  the  empire.  Continuing 
in  the  same  direction,  one  will  reach  the  large  and  beautiful 
Pra^a  da  Kepuhlica,  in  a  Praca  or  Square  of  the  same  name, 


RIO  DE  JANEIRO  325 

of  unusual  size  for  a  park  near  the  heart  of  the  business  see- 
tion.  Here  are  woods,  lakes,  and  streams  witli  aquatie  birds, 
blaek  and  white  swans,  islands  and  rustic  bridges,  a  grotto 
with  a  pretty  caseade,  66,000  varieties  of  phmts,  many  birds 
and  animals,  and  some  statuary. 

All  of  the  parks  are  characterized  by  bixuriaiit  ti-opical 
verdure. 

On  the  Praga,  south  of  the  Park,  is  an  immense  building, 
the  Firemen's  Barracks. 

To  the  northwest,  facing  a  paved  scpiare,  is  tlie  great  Station 
of  the  Central  Iiailway,  with  tracks  running  into  three  dif- 
ferent states  and  to  forty  or  more  cities,  inchiding  Sfio  Paulo. 
Its  revenue  is  more  than  .$10,000,000  a  year.  On  another 
side  of  the  Praca  facing  the  Park  is  tlie  Senate  House,  and 
the  Mint  with  an  imposing  facade  and  some  hue  ornamen- 
tation in  bronze.  Other  buildings  on  the  sides  of  the  Praga 
are  the  Ministry  of  War,  the  Barracks,  the  Normal  School, 
the  Foreijiii  Office,  the  Law  and  the  jMedical  Schools,  and 
the  National  Seliool  of  ]\Iusic. 

From  the  northwest  corner  of  the  Park  two  parallel  streets 
run  westward,  the  Visconde  de  Itauna  and  Senador  Eusebio, 
to  the  Square  Onze  do  Junho,  whence  they  continue  at  the 
side  of  the  Canal  do  Manguc,  forming  a  grand  boulevard  with 
two  rows  of  royal  palms  on  each  side.  This  double  and 
channeled  avenue  has  one  sharp  bend,  turning  in  the  direction 
of  the  new  docks,  where  the  canal  empties  into  the  harljor. 
It  is  a  mile  and  a  half  in  length,  h;is  two  tracks  for  eleeti'ic 
cai'S,  paved  ways  for  wagons,  and  l)road  asphalt  for  automo- 
biles, to  which  the  central  stream  of  w'ater  with  its  massive 
stone  embankments  and  the  superl)  rows  of  palms  add  an 
unusual  beauty. 

The  Zoological  Canh  n,  admission  l.jiOOO  is  reached  by  elec- 
trics of  the  Villa  Isabel  line  from  the  Praea  1')  de  Novembro, 
a  pleasant  ride.  Some  interesting  animals  are  on  view,  but  if 
time  is  limited,  it  iiuiy  be  better  employed  elsewhere. 

From  the  same  S(juare,  cars  nuirked  Sfio  Chrislovao  go  to 
the  Xational  Mustiini  in  the  (Jidnta  ih  ll^a  Vista.  Tlie 
Quinta,  a  fine  large  park,  deserves  a  visit,  the  A(|uarium  (free) 
also,  even  should  the  Museum  be  closed,  as  lias  long  been  tiie 
case,  for  the  puri)Ose  of  extensive  alterations.     The  Museum, 


326  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

with  other  objects  has  a  pfoocl  collection  of  archajolof^ncal  and 
ethnographical  specimens.  A  famous  meteorite  of  unusual 
size,  named  Bendego,  was  formerly  in  the  vestibule.  The  great 
building  was  earlier  the  winter  palace  of  Dom  Pedro  II.  It 
has  been  proposed  to  transfer  the  Zoological  Garden  to  this 
handsome  park. 

The  various  hills  remaining  in  the  center  of  the  city,  a 
few  have  been  completely  leveled,  give  variety  and  pic- 
turesqueness  to  its  topography,  although  interfering  some- 
what with  ease  of  locomotion  and  traffic.  Of  considerable 
height  and  steepness,  they  are  slender,  so  that  the  way  around 
is  not  over  long ;  thus  in  the  opinion  of  the  tourist  who  has  an 
eye  for  scenic  beauty  they  are  not  to  be  regretted.  The 
energetic  person  with  a  little  time  to  spare  should  enjoy  the 
ascent  of  the  four  hills  which  are  near  the  Avenida,  and  of 
one  or  two  of  those  along  the  Beira  jMar.  Near  the  south 
end  of  the  Avenue,  a  little  back  of  the  Hotel  Avenida,  is 
the  Santo  Antonio  hill  surmounted  by  a  convent  of  that 
name.  The  main  entrance  is  from  the  rua  13th  of  May,  in 
a  narrow  passage  between  the  Santa  Thereza  Tramway  Sta- 
tion and  the  Government  Printing  Office  on  the  left.  The 
ancient  and  massive  structure  of  the  Convent,  built  rather 
to  defy  the  ravages  of  time  than  to  excite  admiration  for  its 
beauty,  has  outside  walls  on  the  ground  floor  4  feet  9  inches 
in  thickness.  The  vast  corridors  are  poorly  lighted.  Begun 
June  4,  1608,  the  construction  was  finished  in  1615.  The 
hill,  originally  Morro  do  Carmo,  later  took  its  name  from 
the  convent.  Of  the  Franciscan  Order,  the  convent  is  poor, 
but  the  fine  sacristy  is  worth  visiting.  Here  is  antique  and 
artistic  furniture,  such  as  is  rarely  seen,  carved  from  jacar- 
anda,  one  of  Brazil's  most  valuable  woods.  Here,  too,  is  a 
remarkable  wainscoting  of  blue  tile,  representing  incidents  in 
the  life  of  St.  Anthony,  paintings  on  wood,  a  staff  done  in 
gold  and  precious  stones  presented  by  the  Prince  Regent, 
another  from  the  Governor  of  Sacramento,  now  Uruguay,  and 
other  curiosities.  In  1855  an  imperial  decree  suspended  the 
novitiate  of  religious  orders ;  by  1886  but  one  member  of  the 
community  remained;  in  1889,  with  the  establishment  of  the 
Republic,  religious  liberty  was  ordained,  other  friars  were 
admitted,  and  the  work  of  restoration  began.     In  a  large 


RIO  DE  JAXEIRO  327 

saloon  of  the  coiivont  is  a  stone  slab  marking  the  burial  place 
of  John  F'orbes  Skellater,  native  of  Scotland,  who  served  the 
Kings  of  Portugal  as  General  and  Councillor,  aecoiiipanying 
II.  R.  n.  to  Rio  de  Janciio,  whore  he  died  April  S,  LSOS, 
at  the  age  of  76.  In  an  old  chapel  of  the  cloisters  is  a 
tomb  containing  the  remains  of  the  Prince  Pedro  Affonso, 
son  of  the  Emperor,  Doni  Pedro  II.  Several  pictures  by 
unknown  artists  remain  from  ancient  days. 

Tlie  hill  on  the  other  side  of  the  Avenue,  also  soutli  of  rua 
Assemblea  is  Castclh,  at  the  top  of  which  is  the  Astronomical 
Observatory  with  ruins  of  an  ancient  church.  The  easy  climb 
by  a  narrow  paved  roadway  is  well  worth  making  for  the  de- 
lightful view  from  the  summit  of  the  city  and  harbor  below, 
and  the  more  distant  mountains  in  the  rear. 

Near  the  foot  of  Castello  on  the  east  side,  facing  the  bay  on 
the  Praia  dc  Santa  Luzia  is  Miscricordid  HospilaJ,  larircst  of 
the  kind  in  South  America:  a  great  institution  with  57  doc- 
tors, 88  nurses  and  many  assistants.  In  1010,  12,171  cases 
were  treated  besides  154,600  outdoor  patients.  Among  other 
numerous  and  notable  philanthropic  institutions  is  the  ad- 
mii-abic  Institute  of  Protection  and  Assistance  to  Infants,  on 
rua  Visconde  do  Rio  Branco  12,  founded  by  Dr.  ^loncorvo  Jr. 
in  1901;  accomplishing  a  great  work  in  the  surgical  and  medi- 
cal treatment  of  children  and  mothers,  and  in  propagating  in- 
formation as  to  hygiene.  It  received  a  Clrand  Pi-i/.e  at  the 
International  Exhibition  at  Rome  1912.  Equally  if  not  more 
distinguished  is  the  Pathological  Institute  Oswaldo  Cm/,  also 
founded  in  1901.  This,  outside  the  city  at  Manguinhos. 
reached  by  rail  or  water  in  45  minutes,  is  called  the  most  com- 
pletely equii)pt'd  in  the  world  for  such  work:  the  study  of  dis- 
ease germs,  the  preparation  of  serums,  etc.  Its  publications 
numl)er  nearly  100.  The  smallpox  microbe  was  here  discov- 
ered. 

Near  the  north  end  of  the  Avcnida  on  the  same  side  as  the 
Castello  is  the  ^Sdo  Bcnlo  hill,  at  the  extremity  of  the  rua 
Primeiro  de  ^larco,  the  enclosure  of  the  Henedictine  ^lonastery 
above  being  entered  by  a  large  gateway  at  the  bottom  of  a 
flight  of  stone  steps.  Founded  in  1591,  the  existing  cluirch 
was  Imilt  between  1633  and  1642;  the  present  monastery  was 
begun   in   1652.     During   the   French   invasion    in    1711,   the 


328  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

buildings  were  seriously  damaged,  and  the  Order  contributed 
liberally  for  the  French  to  leave  the  town.  Nearly  half  the 
building  was  in  1732  destroyed  by  fire.  The  proi)erty,  till 
1827  belonging  to  the  Portuguese  Congregation,  was  then 
transferred  to  the  newly  organized  Brazilian  Congregation. 
In  1909  Sao  Bento  became  Abhadia  Nullius,  equivalent  to 
an  Archbishopric.  It  had,  in  1912,  20  monks  in  residence  and 
6  in  the  Rio  Branco  Mission  to  Indians  in  the  Amazon  region. 
The  monastery  has,  since  1858,  maintained  a  free  school  for 
boys,  primary  and  secondary,  with  400  pupils  now  in  attend- 
ance, and  with  500  in  a  night  school.  Lay  professors  assist 
and  many  distinguished  men  have  here  received  their  early 
education.  The  Order  is  very  wealthy,  owning  much  prop- 
erty in  the  middle  of  the  city.  It  formerly  owned  the  site 
of  the  Marine  Arsenal  and  the  Uha  das  Cobras,  which  was 
purchased  in  1589  by  the  founder  of  the  monastery  for  15 
milreis,  about  $5.00.  In  the  revolt  of  the  Naval  Brigade, 
December,  1910,  on  the  Cobras  Island,  the  Government  forces 
made  use  of  the  monastery,  which  suffered  seriously  from  the 
return  fire.  The  church,  rich  in  carved  and  gilded  decora- 
tions, is  worth  a  visit.  It  contains  some  rare  furniture,  and 
an  ancient  organ  valuable  only  as  a  relic.  The  sacristy  and 
corridors  preserve  a  large  number  of  old  paintings.  One  of 
the  cells,  containing  fine  specimens  of  wood  work,  with  a  bed 
formerly  used  by  D,  Joao  VI,  is  for  the  especial  use  of  the 
Papal  Nuncio  when  he  descends  for  a  few  days  from  his  resi- 
dence in  Petropolis.  The  library  of  15,000  volumes  com- 
prises many  valuable  theological  works,  both  in  printing  and 
in  manuscript. 

On  the  west  side  of  the  Avenue,  near  the  same  north  end, 
is  the  Morro  da  Conceigdo,  easily  ascended  from  rua  Acre 
by  a  paved  way  with  steps.  There  are  many  dwellings  on 
this  hill,  with  the  Palace  of  the  Cardinal  Archbishop  at  the 
top.  He  prefers,  however,  to  live  below  in  a  residence  in  the 
rua  do  Bispo.  Offices  adjoining  the  Cathedral,  in  the  7th 
of  September  street,  are  used  for  the  official  work.  Adjoin- 
ing the  Palace  grounds  on  the  hill  top  is  the  Fortaleza,  built 
in  1715.  Formerly  one  of  the  chief  points  in  the  defense  of 
the  city  it  is  now  used  as  a  barracks  for  an  infantry  regiment. 
The  watch  towers,  old  sentry  boxes,  and  the  dungeons  are  of 


RIO  DE  JANEIRO  329 

interest.  The  last  have  been  in  use,  even  since  the  founding 
of  the  Republic,  for  the  imprisonment  of  political  offenders; 
in  1893-94,  Hritish  subjects,  ;mioii<;  others,  were  here  im- 
mured. The  view  from  this  hill-top  over  the  city  is  the 
most  comprehensive  to  be  obtained  from  any  central  point. 


CHAPTER  XXXI 

RIO  DE  JANElliO— CONCLUDED 

Too  long,  mayhap,  have  we  lingered  in  the  heart  of  the 
city,  longer  I  fancy  than  any  tourist  will  do,  despite  the  at- 
tractions in  the  busy  marts  of  trade,  and  the  stately  edifices 
devoted  to  governmental,  artistic,  and  intellectual  purposes. 
The  great  charm  of  the  city,  the  feature  which  makes  it  incom- 
parable among  the  capitals  of  the  world,  is  the  number  of 
delightful  excursions  practicable  to  its  enchanting  suburbs. 
Some  of  these  may  be  visited  by  electric  car  or  automobile, 
as  the  length  of  one's  purse  prescribes,  others  by  boat,  and 
one  by  cog  railway. 

Most  persons  will  be  tempted  to  improve  the  very  first 
afternoon  by  a  ride  along  the  front  of  the  bay,  on  the 
unrivaled  Bcira  Mar,  from  the  ]\Ionroe  Palace  on  the  Avenida 
to  the  foot  of  the  Pao  de  Assucar,  a  ride  without  parallel, 
even  on  the  shores  of  the  Mediterranean.  This  magnificent 
boulevard  invites  also  to  a  promenade,  for  a  broad  walk 
guarded  by  a  handsome  railing  tops  the  massive  sea  wall, 
which  rises  15  feet  above  the  W'ave-sprinkled  rocks  below. 
Rarely,  indeed,  the  waves  rise  higher.  July  12th,  1911,  a 
heavy  Avind  blowing  from  the  south  not  only  dashed  breakers 
high  above  the  wall,  but  wdth  these  sent  stones  weighing  a  ton 
over  upon  the  boulevard.  Next  to  the  promenade  come  two 
wide  asphalt  spaces,  separated  by  a  strip  of  grass  and  a  row 
of  trees,  for  automobiles  going  in  opposite  directions, 
thronged  towards  evening  with  swiftly  moving  machines.  A 
garden  strip  of  varying  width  follows,  beautiful  shrubbery, 
brilliant  coleas,  and  other  plants  with  leaves  of  varied  hue, 
gorgeous  red  salvias,  geraniums,  and  other  showy  flowers. 
Now  comes  the  wide  paved  street  with  ample  space  for  ordi- 
nary vehicles  and  for  the  double  tracks  of  the  electric  cars. 

330 


RIO  DE  JANEIRO  331 

A  few  minutes  from  the  ^lonroe  Palace,  and  almost  in  front 
of  the  Pensao  Suissa  is  the  Pra<»a  da  Gloria  where  Cattete 
street  branches  from  the  Beira  ]Mar.  The  very  pretty  Garden 
contains  two  notable  monuments :  one  of  these  to  Pedro  Al- 
vares  Cabral,  discoverer  of  Brazil,  by  Rodolpho  liernadelli, 
Director  of  the  School  of  Fine  Arts.  This  monument  inau- 
gurated in  1900,  the  fourth  centenary  of  the  Discovery,  rep- 
resents with  Cal)ral  the  chronicler,  Pero  Vaz  Caminha,  and 
the  Franciscan,  Henrique  de  Coimbra,  who  celebrated  the  lirst 
mass  on  the  soil  of  South  America.  The  other  monument, 
dedicated  in  1902,  is  a  statue  of  Visconde  do  Rio  Branco  by  the 
French  sculptor,  Charpentior.  The  ascent  of  the  Ciloria  hill 
close  by  is  worth  while  for  the  splendid  panorama  from  the 
summit,  if  not  for  the  little  church  above  where  on  the  ]r)th 
of  August  is  a  festival. 

Beyond  the  Gloria  hill  are  finer  residences  with  i)retty  gar- 
dens, distracting  attention  from  the  view  of  the  Sugar  Loaf  in 
front,  the  silvery  waters  on  the  left,  the  city  of  Nictheroy  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  bay,  and  the  curving  inlets  of  both 
shores.  On  account  of  a  projecting  hill  the  car  tracks  leave 
the  water's  edge  for  a  space,  passing  back  to  the  Luifjo  do 
Machiulo,  where  the  offices  of  the  railway  are  situated,  the 
place  to  go  for  lo.st  articles.  After  passing  the  Hotel  dos  Es- 
trangeiros,  the  boulevard  is  soon  regained  on  the  Botafogo 
Bay,  a  lovely  geometrical  curve.  Again  leaving  the  sliore  the 
car  marked  Mijiistcrio  de  Agrirulturn  alone  returns  to  tlie 
Praia  da  Saudade,  on  which  the  great  Hospital  for  the  l)is<n)r 
is  passed,  the  Institute  Benjamin  Canatant  for  the  Blind,  and 
the  ini|)()sing  building  of  the  Ministrif  of  AgricuUurr.  the  ears 
at  lengtli  i^ausing  in  front  of  the  Militarn  School  liiiilding, 
which  stands  by  the  ocean  shore:  we  have  now  passed  beyond 
the  splendid  Sugar  Loaf,  so  that  in  the  rear  of  the  School 
P.uildiiig  we  shoidd  find  the  Praia  Vermelha.  a  beach  on  the 
great  ocean.  An  Aerial  h'a.ilwaif  now  serves  for  a  trip  to  the 
tip  top  of  the  pinnacle,  Pdo  de  Assurar.  whence  a  delightful 
view  is  obtained  of  city,  bay,  and  ocean.  The  same  Praia 
Vermelha  car  passes  the  base  station  whence  an  electric  basket 
cable  car  accommodating  twenty  persons  go<>s,  ti?'st  to  the 
]\lorro  da  Urea,  then  on  to  the  toji  of  the  ITio  dc  .\ssiican.  .\ 
return   ticket    for   tlie   trip    is   usnally    4*(t(»i.      The   journey 


332  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

to  the  top  is  made  in  twelve  minutes.  The  distance  is  nearly 
a  mile. 

Other  rides  partly  aloii^^  the  front,  or  on  Cattete  street  paral- 
lel to  the  Beira  Mar,  should  be  taken  to  the  various  suburban 
ocean  beaches  of  Leme,  Copacahana,  Ipanema,  and  (Javea, 
backed  by  picturesque  hills,  through  which  a  tunnel  or  two 
has  been  bored  for  more  direct  access.  Some  of  the  beaches, 
though  rather  dangerous  for  bathing,  are  more  or  less  pat- 
ronized. Many  people  wander  along  the  shore,  or  in  pavilions 
regale  themselves  with  beer  or  coffee.  Villas  of  the  wealthy 
and  a  sprinkling  of  poorer  houses,  with  several  hotels  and 
restaurants,  show  provision  for  all  classes.  Everywhere  in 
the  residential  districts  outside  of  the  more  crowded  central 
portion,  attention  will  be  continually  drawn  to  the  charming 
homes,  some  of  quite  palatial  dimensions  and  elegance,  the 
majority  more  modest  but  generally  with  some  pretty  orna- 
mentation, all  apparently  freshly  painted  in  varied  and  deli- 
cate shades  of  color,  pink,  blue,  green,  lavender,  pearl,  buff, 
Alice  blue,  etc.,  embowered  among  vines,  shrubbery,  and 
palms :  an  unceasing  source  of  pleasure. 

On  the  w-ay  to  the  beaches  by  the  rua  Cattete,  before  reach- 
ing the  Strangers'  Hotel,  the  President's  Palace  may  be  ob- 
served on  the  left.  The  large  garden  extends  through  to  the 
boulevard  along  the  Praia  de  Flamengo,  but  the  entrance  is 
from  Cattete.  The  exterior  of  the  Palace,  which  was  con- 
structed by  the  Baron  of  Nova  Friburgo  and  later  purchased 
by  the  Government,  is  not  noteworthy,  but  the  interior  has 
magnificent  decorations;  the  garden  would  be  a  fitting  acces- 
sory of  a  royal  palace.  Next  to  the  Palace  is  the  beautiful 
school  building,  Rodrigues  Alves,  a  suitable  monument  to 
the  great  President  of  Brazil,  in  whose  administration  was 
inaugurated  the  tremendous  undertaking  by  which  the  city 
has  been  transformed. 

Not  far  from  the  Hotel  Estrangeiros,  a  beautiful  avenue 
lined  with  royal  palms,  half  a  mile  long,  leads  to  a  fine  man- 
sion, which  in  1911  was  the  residence  of  the  President. 

In  a  long  afternoon  of  four  or  five  hours  the  entire  circuit 
of  the  city  may  be  made  by  automobile  along  the  Beira  Mar 
on  the  shore  of  the  bay,  then  past  the  ocean  beaches  to  the 
mountains  and  by  a  splendid  road  along  the  mountain-side 


■nil     rKi.-iiiL.Nr 


IIOTA.NK.VL    (..Mtl'h.N 


RIO  DE  JANEIRO  333 

past  Gavea  and  Tijuca,  thence  across  to  tlie  waterfront,  and 
by  the  docks  returning  to  the  Avenida  Central ;  a  circuit  with 
varied  panorama  such  as  no  other  city  of  the  world  affords, 
to  which  an  entire  day  might  better  be  devoted. 

The  Botanical  Garden,  long  celebrated  as  possessing  the 
finest  collection  of  tropical  plants  among  the  parks  of  the 
world,  was  founded  in  1808  by  Dom  Joao  VI  when  Prince 
Regent  of  Portugal.  At  the  Avenida  Station,  a  ear  marked 
Gavea  may  be  taken  about  once  in  ten  minutes.  The  route 
is  at  first  a  familiar  one,  near  the  shore  of  the  bay,  but  turns 
at  length  to  the  west,  passing  presently  under  the  steep  walls 
of  Corcovado  on  the  right  and  near  the  shore  of  a  consider- 
able lake,  the  Lagoa  Rodrigues  de  Freitas  on  the  left,  a  ride 
for  wliicli  the  three-quarters  of  an  hour  required  is  none  too 
long.  Within  the  gateway,  flanked  by  small  office  buildings, 
one  is  confronted  by  a  splendid  avenue  of  superb  palms,  150 
in  number,  extending  in  a  straight  line  nearly  half  a  mile. 
The  tree  trunks,  a  yard  in  diameter  at  the  base,  are  straight 
shafts  75  feet  high,  ere  they  are  topped  by  their  leafage 
crown.  Some  distance  up,  this  avenue  is  crossed  by  another 
of  140  palms,  a  fountain  adorning  the  square  of  intersection. 
These  palms,  with  all  those  forming  colonnades  ia  other  parts 
of  the  city,  are  descendants  of  the  ancient  tree  which  was 
planted  by  D.  Joao  VI.  The  story  goes  that  some  Brazilian 
officeis,  shipwrecked,  were  carried  to  the  Isle  of  France,  where 
was  a  tine  botanical  garden.  One  of  the  officers,  Luiz  de 
Abreu,  after  gaining  possession  of  several  choice  specimens, 
managed  to  escape  with  them.  Returning  to  Brazil  he  pre- 
sented them  to  Dom  Joao,  who,  transferring  them  to  the  Gar- 
den, planted  with  his  own  hands  the  seed  of  tiie  Ixoyal  rahn. 
The  tree  still  standing,  130  feet  high,  apparently  destined  to 
flourish  for  some  time  longer,  is  marked  by  an  inscription, 
and  will  be  pointed  out  by  an  attendant  if  overlooketl.  It 
is  not,  of  course,  in  any  of  the  rows.  Besides  hundreds  of 
varieties  of  Brazilian  i»lants,  the  (Jarden  contains  as  many 
I'lom  all  parts  of  the  world;  it  maintains  close  relations  with 
other  Gardens,  sending  to  them  hundreds  of  thousands  of 
seeds,  as  well  as  making  extensive  distribution  in  various  parts 
of  Bi-azil.  A  (1. ■light fid  st-ction  at  the  h-ft  of  the  i-ntrance 
is  called  the  Bamboo  Salon,  where  a  walk  under  the  feathery 


334  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

archway  recalls  the  aisle  of  a  Gothic  cathedral.  Of  great 
interest  is  the  traveler's  tree,  somewhat  resembling  a  banana 
plant,  of  which  the  sap  is  like  pure  cold  water.  The  gentle- 
man who  showed  me  about,  kindly  cut  the  stalk  with  his  knife. 
I  drank  as  the  sap  spouted  forth,  and  found  it  indis- 
tinguishable from  clear  water.  If  the  tree  would  grow  in 
desert  regions,  what  a  godsend  to  the  thirsty  traveler !  The 
victoria  rcgia  with  its  great  leaves,  four  or  five  feet  in  diame- 
ter floating  on  the  water  is  always  noteworthy,  even  if  it  is 
not  the  flowering  season,  there  May  or  June.  Naturally 
rubber  trees  of  many  varieties  are  to  be  seen,  coffee 
shrubs,  tea  plants,  and  others  in  profusion,  both  useful  and 
beautiful,  a  wealth  of  vines,  but  fewer  orchids,  at  least  in 
blossom,  than  I  had  hoped.  The  candelabra  tree,  so  called 
from  its  shape,  and  the  cow  tree,  which  supplies  a  kind 
of  milk  better  for  making  cement  than  for  drinking,  are 
of  interest.  An  especial  curiosity  is  one  tree  growing 
inside  of  another,  the  trunk  of  the  palm  being  almost  com- 
pletely surrounded  by  the  trunk  of  another  tree  of  entirely 
different  character,  both  trees  now  30  or  40  feet  high. 

A  number  of  pretty  pavilions,  a  lake,  grottoes,  and  cascades 
contribute  to  adorn  the  Garden,  also  several  monuments  and 
statues.  One  of  the  monuments  is  in  memory  of  the  real 
founder  of  the  Garden,  Frei  Leandro  do  Sacramento,  Pro- 
fessor of  Botany  in  the  Faculty  of  Medicine,  a  distinguished 
scholar,  who  on  his  death  in  1829  left  the  Garden  in  a  flourish- 
ing condition.  At  the  end  of  the  central  avenue  of  palms, 
the  monument,  Dca  Palmaris,  was  inaugurated  in  1906. 
There  are  various  statues  of  nymphs,  a  temple  of  Nike,  a 
Belvedere,  a  colonial  portico,  and  the  first  statue  ever  cast  in 
Brazil,  this  in  1783  by  Valentim  da  Fonseca  e  Silva.  In  one 
of  the  buildings  hj  the  gate  is  a  herbarium  of  great  value, 
as  also  a  library.  Even  unscientific  persons  with  no  especial 
interest  in  botany  may  enjoy  a  long  afternoon  wandering  in 
the  delightful  walks,  the  charm  of  which  is  increased  by  the 
wooded  steeps  and  grim  cliff's  of  Corcovado  just  above,  seeing 
here  the  side  of  Corcovado  precisely  opposite  to  the  one  visible 
from  the  center  of  the  city.  One  may  leave  the  Garden  in 
time  to  continue  the  short  distance  to  the  end  of  the  line  to 
Gavea,  where  there  is  a  noted  spring  of  water  of  excellent 


KIO  DE  JANEIRO  335 

quality.  From  a  spot  called  Boa  Vista,  a  short  climb,  the 
I^auorama  is  superb.  The  headlands,  Dous  Irinaos,  are  at  the 
left,  the  shores  ever  beaten  by  angry  waves;  in  front  is  the 
broad  ocean  dotted  with  islands,  one  named  Rosa  bearing  a 
lighthouse;  on  the  right  imposing  Gavea,  on  whose  face  near 
the  summit  may  be  distinguished  lines  believed  to  have  been 
traced  ])y  some  primitive  people.  The  name  Gavea,  meaning 
topsail,  is  derived  from  the  shape  of  the  summit.  Its  ascent 
is  possible  from  the  side  towards  Tijuca  and  has  several  times 
been  made. 

Corcovado.  ]\rost  delightful  to  many  of  all  the  days  to 
be  spent  at  Rio  will  be  that  which  is  devoted  to  the  As- 
cent of  Corcovado;  nor  should  it  long  be  postponed.  Tiie  first 
clear  day  or  afternoon  should  be  improved,  as  at  some  sea- 
sons clouds  are  frequent.  Even  setting  out  with  a 
cloudless  sky,  one  may  find  the  goal  shrouded  in  mist, 
or  spread  out  below  a  mantle  of  softest  sheen  conceal- 
ing in  part  or  whole  the  glorious  prospect  beneath.  There 
is  a  choice  of  two  routes  to  the  summit :  both  I  strongly 
recommend;  every  one  should  go  twice;  but  with  time  so 
limited  that  a  single  trip  may  be  made  it  is  desirable  to  go 
one  way  and  return  the  other.  The  Sylvestre  route  begins  by 
electric  car,  starting  every  half  hour  from  tiie  Largo  da 
Carioca  back  of  the  Avenida  Hotel.  The  other,  longer  or 
shorter,  according  to  the  point  of  departure,  is  all  by  cog- 
wheeled  railway;  but  the  base  station  is  35  or  40  minutes 
from  the  Avenida.  One  takes  here  or  farther  out  a  car 
marked  Cosme  Velho  or  Laranueiras  to  the  i)retty  station 
among  the  Santa  Tliei-csa  liills.  passing  on  the  way  th(>  famil- 
ial* Esl range! I'os  and  i^ai-go  do  Macliailo,  there  turning  to  the 
right  on  Larangeiras,  a  street  as  yet  unfamiliar.  Near  the 
end  of  the  line  on  the  left  is  the  station,  return  ticket  3 
milreis,  wiiere  one  enters  a  car  open  at"  tiie  sides  with  suf- 
ficiently comfortable  seats  if  you  face  upwards.  The  track, 
one  meter  wide,  about  two  miles  long,  cros.ses  the  valley  of 
the  Sylvestre  stream  on  an  iron  viaduct  of  three  arches,  each 
80  feet  wide,  supported  on  iron  pilhirs  with  a  masonry  base, 
then  enters  a  deep  trench,  later  erossing  two  more  bridges. 

At  tlie  first  station,  Sylvestre,  tho.se  board  the  train  who 
have  come  bj^  electrics  to  this  point.     The  bitter,  after  a  few 


336  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

rods  of  steep  grade  from  Carioca,  wind  along  the  side  of  San 
Antonio  Hill  in  gradual  ascent,  then  cross  on  tlie  picturesque 
double  arches  of  the  old  viaduct  to  the  outlying  hill  of  the 
Santa  Thereza  ridge.  Swiftly  speeds  the  car  affording  but 
fleeting  glimpses  of  the  busy  streets  and  the  houses  below. 
Winding  along  the  hillside,  soon  passing  the  International 
Hotel,  with  many  level  stretches  and  moderate  inclines,  the  out- 
look above  or  below  is  enchanting.  Any  description  must  fall 
far  short  of  the  reality.  The  conjunction  of  a  great  city  with 
picturesque  scenery,  pellucid  bays,  ragged  cliffs,  and  tropical 
vegetation  is  unparalleled.  One  sits  enthralled  with  the 
vision  of  loveliness.  One's  entire  vocabulary  of  adjectives 
such  as  exquisite,  entrancing,  magnificent,  sublime,  crowd 
upon  the  mind.  A  short  distance  away  towers  the  massive 
Sugar  Loaf,  its  cliffs  so  steep  and  smooth  that  apparently  even 
a  fly  would  find  no  foothold,  unless  with  a  liberal  suppl}^  of 
Spalding  s  glue  upon  his  little  toes.  My  cry  was  not  ' '  0  for 
the  wings  of  a  dove ! ' '  but  for  the  pen  of  my  gifted  friends, 
Aked  or  Gifford,  to  attempt  the  glowing  description  the  scenes 
deserve.  Here  are  trees  with  great  bunches  of  yellow  flowers, 
somewhat  resembling  wistaria,  but  with  a  very  artificial  look. 
Many  trees  bear  large  scarlet  flowers.  One  below  is  covered 
with  white  blossoms.  Pretty  villas  and  gardens  are  passed, 
the  dwellings,  pink,  bkie,  green,  and  terra  cotta.  In  bright 
sunshine  smoked  glasses  may  seem  desirable  to  eyes  not  espe- 
cially strong.  As  we  skirt  the  hillside  in  many  curves,  the 
city  below  is  now  on  our  right,  the  gleaming  bay,  and  curving 
shore;  the  next  moment  the  steep  slopes  or  cliffs  above;  and 
now  we  move  through  a  dense  and  quiet  forest.  A  good  car- 
riage road  is  here  by  the  side  of  the  track.  A  happy  couple  is 
occasionally  seen  strolling  on  a  sequestered  path.  In  January 
it  was  too  warm  to  enjoy  a  climb,  but  a  leisurely  descent  would 
at  any  time  be  a  pleasure.  In  winter,  June,  July,  and  August, 
the  ascent  Avould  be  equally  agreeable,  and  the  opportunity 
to  pause  and  enjoy  the  charming  vistas  no  one  could  fail  to 
appreciate. 

At  Sylvestre,  about  700  feet  altitude,  where  the  transfer  is 
made  to  the  cog-wheeled  railway,  there  is  a  little  hotel  where 
a  cup  of  tea  may  be  enjoyed  and  a  short  walk  taken,  unless 
close  connection  is  made.     In  this  case  you  must  run  across 


CORCOVADO    FROM    THE    BOULKVARD    IlEIKA    MAR 


THROUCiH    TUB   CLOUDS,    hh     V 


RIO  DE  JANEIRO  337 

the  track  to  the  booth  where  tickets  are  sold,  buying  for  the 
round  trip  unless  minded  to  Avalk  down ;  an  excellent  idea, 
as  the  time  allowed  above  is  short.  Descending  on  foot  to 
Sylvestre  a  ear  may  there  be  taken  every  half -hour.  The 
hours  of  the  train  on  the  cog  railway  should  be  carefully 
investigated,  as  they  are  few,  and  vary  with  the  season;  on 
week  days  formerly  10  and  2,  on  Sundays  nearly  every  hour 
but  the  last  descending  at  5.  Now  on  the  cog-wheeled  road, 
the  grade  is  at  times  so  heavy  that  if  riding  backwards  you 
must  brace  or  hang  on,  lest  you  slip  from  the  seat.  The  train 
is  run  by  electricity  with  four  cables  and  an  engine.  Six 
kinds  of  brakes  may  be  relied  upon  in  case  of  accident ;  they 
never  occur  on  this  line,  but  occasionally  on  the  tramway. 
Thick  woods  and  a  tangle  of  vines  now  mostly  shut  out  the 
distant  i)rospect,  but  these  are  fascinating,  flosses,  ferns, 
and  lichens,  forest  palms,  tendril-draped  trees  with  every 
shade  of  green,  orchids,  begonias,  and  other  blossoms,  trickling 
waters,  narrow  forest  paths,  sudden  glimpses  of  the  shimmer- 
ing bay,  of  dark  tree-tops,  of  massive  cliffs  below,  or  of  craggy 
peak  above,  make  every  moment  a  delight.  At  the  station 
Fdineiras,  alt.,  1500  feet,  is  the  Hotel  Coroovado,  with  restau- 
rant service  at  all  hours  and  eomfortable  rooms,  a  resort  for 
convalescents  and  others.  It  has  a  temperature  15°  or  18" 
lower  than  in  the  city  and  delightful  shady  walks.  At  a 
little  distance  a  clearing  affords  a  wonderful  outlook.  The 
track  ends  at  the  foot  of  a  cliff  whence  a  good  path  of  rather 
steep  grade  leads  to  the  summit  100  feet  above,  crowned  by 
the  usual  pavilion.  This  stands  quite  2200  feet  above  tl)e  sur- 
face of  the  bay.  One  hardly  pauses  here,  but  descending 
a  few  steps  goes  on  to  the  very  end,  the  brink  of  tiie  perpen- 
dicular cliff  on  tlie  south  side,  with  a  sheer  drop  of  1700  feet, 
well  protected  by  a  substantial  Avail  with  a  seat  for  the  feeble 
or  the  loiterer.  And  who  woiikl  not  loiter  here,  with  this 
beautiful  vision  spread  out  beneath!  A  jjanorama  of  sur- 
])assing  loveliness!  Oil,  read  Miss  Cameron's  Involuntary 
Chapcrunc!  and  you  may  gain  some  small  idea  of  the  enchant- 
ing scenes.  In  afternoon  light,  in  sunset  glow,  in  the  (juiet 
evening  with  the  twinkling  liglits  below  and  the  serene  niooa 
above,  this  is  a  paradise  for  lovei-s.  a  fairy  land  for  all. 

The   view   from   Tijuca  more   beautiful!     AVho   at   Corco- 


338  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

vado  can  lu'licvo  it?  Not  I !  But  so  some  have  said.  There- 
fore to  Tijiica  must  one  go  if  possible.  The  electric  cars 
marked  Tijuca,  which  run  from  Praca  15th  of  November 
along  rua  Assemblea  to  the  suburb,  may  be  taken  for  the  ex- 
cursion. The  ride  is  through  a  very  different  section,  by  the 
Canal  do  ]\Iangue,  then  through  clean  streets,  lined  by  com- 
fortable dwellings  of  the  middle  class,  some  more  pretentious 
with  pretty  gardens,  nearly  all  painted  in  delicate  shades  of 
gay  colors.  In  the  really  suburban  section  are  many  fine 
villas,  and  after  a  gradual  ascent  among  the  hills  one  descends 
6  miles  from  the  Avenida,  at  a  park,  alt.  1000  ft.,  called  Boa 
Vista,  on  one  side  of  which  is  a  hotel;  also  an  establishment 
where  saddle  horses  may  be  procured,  perchance  an  automo- 
bile, for  the  continuance  of  the  journey.  These  are  rather 
expensive;  an  auto  to  Tijuca  costs  20$000  per  hour,  nearly 
$7.00,  around  the  city  10$000.  Walks,  however,  may  be  taken 
to  many  pretty  spots.  A  few  steps  from  the  Square  is  a  charm- 
ing outlook  over  city  and  bay.  At  the  farther  side  of  the 
Square  begins  the  Tijuca  forest,  and  following  the  road  one 
soon  reaches  (perhaps  ten  minutes)  a  picturesque  little  cas- 
cade. This  road  may  be  pursued  on  foot  or  horseback  in  3 
or  4  hours  to  the  top  of  the  mountain;  alt.  8300  feet,  from 
which  is  the  superior  view  above  mentioned.  Other  pretty 
spots  to  be  visited  in  a  drive  of  two  or  three  hours  are  the 
Grotto  of  Paul  and  Virginia,  the  Grand  Cascade,  the  Chinese 
Viciv,  the  Emperor's  Tahle,  the  Excelsior,  the  Solidao,  etc. 
The  Furnas  at  a  distance  of  two  miles  is  a  fantastic  arrange- 
ment of  rocks  and  boulders,  where  an  interesting  garden  has 
been  established.  The  road  which  passes  the  Vista  Chineza 
and  the  Emperor's  Table  leads  down  to  the  Botanical  Garden 
through  the  rua  Dona  Castorina.  Best  of  all  is  to  make  a 
day  of  it  by  automobile  from  the  city,  ascending  the  peak  on 
foot  or  horseback,  visiting  all  the  points  of  interest,  and  tak- 
ing the  glorious  ride  around  by  Gavea  and  the  Botanical  Gar- 
dens on  the  return. 

Petropolis 

Hotels.     Europa,  Rio  de  Janeiro  (Gennan),  Pensfio  Central,  ex- 
pensive.    Braganza  Hotel,  Meyer's  Pension,  moderate. 

An  excursion  to  Petropolis  (return  ticket  4$)  should  not  be 


PETROPOLIS  339 

omitted,  a  cit}^  of  25,000,  the  residence  of  the  diplomats, 
formerly  the  sumim.'r  home  of  the  Emperor.  Onee  it  was 
necessary  to  cross  the  bay  to  ]\Iaua  to  take  the  train;  the  road 
from  this  point  to  the  foot  of  the  mountains,  opened  in  1856, 
is  the  oldest  in  Brazil.  While  the  steamboat  ride  was  agree- 
able, it  is  more  convenient  to  take  the  train  at  the  Leopoklina 
Railway  Station  in  the  city,  rather  far  out,  indeed ;  and  at 
least  three-quarters  of  an  hour  should  be  allowed  to  reach  it. 
Almost,  in  spite  of  a  sharp  run,  I  lost  my  train,  which  my 
companion  did  quite.  After  some  miles  over  the  plain,  the 
rack  and  pinion  system  is  employed  for  the  climb,  almost  to 
the  city;  when  ordinary  motors  are  again  used.  The  ascent 
is  delightful,  with  an  ever  charming  outlook,  better  perhaps 
on  the  right,  but  there  should  be  observation  cars  in  order  to 
look  both  ways  at  once.  The  sea  is  occasionally  visible,  oftener 
only  the  luxuriant  vegetation,  trailing  vines,  feathery  ferns, 
brilliant  blossoms,  great  trees,  splendid  rocks,  and  mountain 
streams.  An  occasional  factory  is  rather  a  sui*prise,  but  with 
all  this  water  power,  why  not?  This  Serra  da  Estrella  is  a 
part  of  the  Organ  ]\Its.  and  of  the  Serra  do  Mar  or  Coast 
Range  of  Brazil.  Among  the  hills  around,  orchid  hunters 
find  many  treasures.  Petropolis,  in  the  social  season  from 
December  to  ^lay,  is  a  resort  of  wealth  and  fashion,  a  scene 
of  gayety,  the  many  beautiful  homes  tilled  with  guests. 
Founded  in  1845  as  an  agricultural  colony  by  2000  Germans, 
it  became  the  headquarters  of  the  Dii)lomatic  Corps  on  ac- 
count of  the  yellow'  fever  epidemics  at  Rio.  The  residence  of 
twenty  foreign  dii)lomats  lias  made  the  place  important  for  its 
size.  Now  that  tlie  sanitary  conditions  of  Rio  are  of  the  very 
best  it  is  possible  that  the  diplomats  nuiy  resume  residence 
in  the  capital  below.  A  pretty  and  unusual  feature  of 
l*etropolis  is  the  stream  flowing  in  several  of  the  principal 
streets,  crossed  by  graceful  bridges  of  wood  or  of  iron,  with 
stone  embankments  partially  vine-clad,  and  beautiful  over- 
hanging trees.  There  are  delightful  drives,  both  in  the  town 
and  in  the  mountainous  region  abnut.  The  wide  streets  of 
the  town,  often  fringed  with  iiiagMolias,  are  borderi'd  by  many 
handsome  residences  amid  lawns  and  gardens  with  ricli  trop- 
ical verdure.  A  broii/.e  monument  to  Pedro  II  was  dedicated 
February,  1!>11.     The  American  Embas-sy  is  housed  in  a  tine 


340  THE  SOCJTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

old  mansion  on  beautiful  grounds.  The  former  summer  resi- 
dence of  Dom  Pedro  11,  property  of  the  Countess  d'Eu,  is 
now  a  College  of  St.  Vincent  de  Paul.  The  city  has  unusual 
educational  advantages  and  many  commercial  enterprises. 
There  is  much  social  gayety  in  the  season,  but  during  the 
months  of  the  rainy  weather  the  fashionables  depart.  The 
City  Hall  is  noted  as  the  best  in  the  state. 

Another  city  on  the  mountains,  of  slightly  greater  elevation, 
is  Nova  Frihurgo,  three  hours  from  Nictherdy.  With  an 
elevation  of  about  3000  feet  it  enjoys  a  perfect  climate.  The 
oldest  immigrant  colony  in  Brazil,  it  was  founded  by  1700 
Swiss  in  1819.  This  also  is  a  famous  summer  resort  and  is 
the  center  of  a  productive  coffee  district. 

Another  interesting  mountain  city  is  Therezopolis,  also  3000 
feet  above  the  sea,  commanding  delightful  views  of  the  ravines 
and  cascades  of  the  Organ  ]\Its.  and  of  the  beautiful  bay  far 
below. 

An  excursion  to  Kictlieroy,  the  capital  of  the  State  of  Rio 
de  Janeiro,  should  not  be  omitted.  It  is  easily  made  from  the 
Caes  Pharoux,  by  ferry  every  half-hour.  With  a  population 
of  35,000,  it  is  a  nice  quiet  town,  with  well  paved  streets  and 
pretty  squares.  From  the  ferry  landing  electric  cars  may 
be  taken  to  the  charming  beaches  of  lea  rah  y  and  Sacco  de  Sao 
Francisco,  the  latter  with  a  beach  rivaling  Trouville;  the  ride 
around  by  one  of  the  promontories  is  thoroughly  delightful. 
The  return  may  be  made  through  the  town  of  Nictheroy, 
which  has  some  handsome  public  buildings. 

Equally  if  not  more  desirable  is  a  sail  into  the  inner  har- 
bor. From  Caes  Pharoux  boats  go  four  times  daily  to  the 
Island  Paqueta,  also  to  the  Governador;  (fare  to  either  500 
reis  each  way).  The  former  island  is  especially  picturesque, 
with  charming  embowered  chalets.  On  Sunday  afternoons,  & 
three  hours'  sail  may  be  taken;  fare  1$500. 


UXITED    STATES    EMBASSY,    rETUOFuUd 


STIIEET    WnU    UIVKK 


CHAPTER  XXXII 
NORTHERN  BRAZIL— no:\rEWARD 

The  large  majority  of  tourists  will  embark  at  Rio  on  one 
of  the  fine  large  steamers  of  the  Lamport  and  Holt  Line  for 
New  York.  Return  may  also  be  made  by  way  of  England 
on  a  Royal  ]\Iail  l)oat.  A  few  maj'  desire  a  more  extended 
acquaintance  with  Brazil.  Some  facts  are  thcrt'foi-e  in-esciited 
in  regard  to  other  States  of  this  immense  Republic  and  the 
facilities  for  visiting  them. 

Minas  Geraes.  One  inclined  to  journey  into  the  interior,  to 
the  rich  gold  and  diamond  region  in  the  State  of  Minus  Gcruis, 
may  go  by  the  Central  Railway  400  miles  north  to  the 
capital  of  i\Iinas,  Bcllo  Ilorizonte,  a  made-to-order  city, 
not  twenty  years  of  age,  but  with  a  population  of  30,000, 
already  a  fine  town  for  its  size.  "While  this  State  has  no  sea- 
board, no  rul)ber,  and  no  city  of  50,000  inhal)itants,  it  has  a 
larger  population  than  any  other  State  of  Brazil  and  than 
most  of  the  countries  of  South  America.  This  is  due  to  its 
good  climate  and  excellent  waters,  as  well  as  to  its  rich 
resources.  Tlie  author  Dias  says:  "In  this  State  what 
doesn't  hi(h'  gold  coiilains  ii'oii ;  what  does  not  contain  coal 
spreads  diamonds."  llcir  for  a  century  80,000  men  toiled 
to  supply  gold  to  the  kings  of  Portugal.  Di.scovered  in  1  (!!):{, 
the  output  of  the  gold  mines  at  the  middle  of  the  eighteentli 
century  was  at  its  height.  Five  Ihoiisaiid  pounds  weight  is 
said  to  have  l)een  panned  in  one  year  in  the  area  of  one  sijuarc 
mile;  in  another  place  100  j)oiiii(ls  in  one  night;  8G0.000 
pounds  weight  were  registei-ed  in  Ivio  in  17!)2.  Tiie  entire  out- 
put has  l)een  al)oul  one  billion  dollars.  In  the  nineteenth 
centuiy  less  was  piodiiced  on  account  of  a  heavy  lax,  new 
methods,  and  uncnlauity  as  to  i)r()p<'rty  rights  and  mniing 
laws.  At  pi-eseiit  there  is  a  revival  and  a  good  ()\itlo(>k.  The 
oldest  producing  gold   mine  in   the  world   is  said   to   be  the 

a41 


342  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

Morro  Vellio,  between  Ouro  Preto  and  Bello  Horlzonte,  yield- 
ing one  ounce  to  the  ton  and  80,000  ounces  a  year. 

The  diamond  mines  of  Jefiuitinhonha  Valley,  famous  for 
two  centuries,  were  discovered  in  1729.  The  Regent  diamond, 
weifihing  nearly  an  ounce,  found  by  three  convicts  in  1791, 
secured  their  pardon.  The  Estrella  do  Sul,  now  belonging 
to  the  Rajah  of  Baroda,  picked  up  by  a  slave  who  gave  it  for 
his  freedom,  was  the  highest  ransom  ever  paid  for  liberty. 
Weighing  uncut  250  carats,  about  half  that  when  cut,  it  is 
worth  $15,000,000.  The  center  of  the  industry  is  the  town 
Diamantina  (population  10,000),  600  miles  from  Rio.  Black 
diamonds  are  found,  also  amethysts,  tourmaline,  topaz,  aqua- 
marines, garnets,  chrysolites,  etc.,  in  many  places. 

Ouro  Preto,  the  center  of  the  manganese  industry,  yields 
annually  250,000  tons  of  55  per  cent  ore.  Iron,  found  in 
every  part  of  Minas,  for  lack  of  fuel,  is  not  exploited.  Plat- 
inum has  been  found  and  there  is  a  great  variety  of  granite 
and  marble,  agates,  onyx,  and  rock  crystal,  mica,  graphite, 
cinnabar,  and  asbestos.  Ouro  Preto,  the  former  capital,  has 
a  mining  school,  organized  in  1903,  said  to  be  one  of  the  best 
in  the  world,  with  instruction  free ;  the  museum  contains  a  rare 
collection.  The  State  is  thought  to  have  a  future  rivaling 
that  of  Australia  and  Kimberley. 

The  old  capital,  of  which  Dias  says:  "In  six  squares 
everything  is  in  the  horizontal  plan,  but  the  52  streets  and 
lanes  go  through  tortuous  and  accidented  places  as  if  they 
were  acrobats,"  was  at  length  deemed  unsuitable;  the  State 
was  investigated  for  a  new  one ;  the  site  of  a  hamlet  in  a  beau- 
tiful valley  was  chosen,  and  a  branch  line  was  built  10  miles 
from  the  Central  Railway.  In  1894  private  houses  began 
to  be  erected.  BcUo  Horizon te  has  fine  wide  streets,  with 
arborization  said  to  be  the  most  artistic  of  any  South  Amer- 
ican city.  It  has  water  supply,  sewerage,  illumination,  and 
electric  tramways,  of  the  best  type,  a  Government  Palace 
which  cost  half  a  million,  the  finest  of  the  State  buildings  of 
Brazil,  the  Department  of  the  Interior,  of  Finance,  and  of 
Agriculture,  each  with  handsome  buildings,  also  the  City  Hos- 
pital. A  small  river  with  pretty  cascades  running  through 
the  valley  forms  the  vertebra  of  a  beautiful  park,  which  with 
great  trees,  shrubs,  and  vines,  a  broad  driveway,  and  pic- 


NORTHERN  BRAZIL  343 

turesque  paths  rivals  in  extent  and  natural  beauty  all  others 
in  Brazil. 

An  Agricultural  School  with  a  model  farm  is  an  important 
educational  feature  on  aeeount  of  the  great  fertility  of  the 
region.  Sugar  cane,  corn,  rice,  bananas,  tobacco,  fruits,  cot- 
ton, cereals,  and  many  other  things  are  here  cultivated,  with 
coffee  as  the  chief  product,  the  State  being  second  to  Sao  Paulo 
in  its  culture.  A  concession  was  made  to  a  North  American 
Company  for  growing  hemp  and  other  fibres,  one  million  trees 
to  be  planted  within  four  years.  Viticulture  and  the  silk 
worm  industry  are  suitable  to  the  region.  Vast  pasture  lands 
support  great  herds  of  cattle,  nearly  300,000,000  head  being 
exported  in  a  single  year.  The  dairy  produce  of  butter, 
cheese,  and  milk,  is  very  important,  and  eggs  also.  It  is  thus 
evident  that  Brazil  possesses  other  industries  beside  rul)ber 
and  cotYee,  and  rej^ions  with  agreeable  climate.  The  San  Fran- 
cisco River  Mowing  north  through  this  section,  while  navigable 
at  intervals,  has  a  series  of  cascades,  among  the  most  pic- 
turesque in  the  world.  Also  there  are  famous  mineral  springs 
at  Caxambu,  altitude  3000  ft.,  with  waters  resembling  those  of 
Baden  and  Spa,  with  chalets,  hotels,  and  sanatoria,  in  sum- 
mer crowded  with  guests;  and  other  springs  in  various  other 
resorts. 

The  next  Coast  State  to  Rio  is  Espirifo  Sanlo,  though  snudl, 
the  third  coffee  producer,  raising  also  sugar  cane,  rice,  and 
splendid  tropical  woods;  a  good  climate  up  on  the  plateau. 
The  capital  and  seajiort,  Victoria  (20,000  pop.),  has  an  excel- 
lent harbor,  now  being  improved  with  docks,  warehouses,  etc., 
soon  to  be  a  port  of  call  for  large  steamers.  The  next  State, 
Bahia,  will  be  mentioned  later  in  the  chapter. 

Following  Bahia  is  Scrgipe,  smallest  of  the  States  (a  little 
larger  than  Maryland),  1;1,0()0  s<|uart'  miles,  but  the  most 
thickly  settled.  Another  small  State  is  Alagoas;  then  comes 
the  large  and  imjiortant  Pcrnamhuco,  its  capital  so  called,  but 
more  properly  Recife;  with  its  population  of  150.000,  the 
fourth  city  of  Brazil,  it  is  of  great  commercial  importance. 
The  name  Reeife  arises  from  a  substantial  reef  off  shore  form- 
ing a  line  natural  breakwater,  to  which  the  Dutch  made  .some 
artificial  addition,  also  erecting  at  its  extremity  a  strong  light- 
house tower,  the  light  visible  for  20  miles.     The  city,  built  on 


344  THE  HOUTII  AMP]RICAN  TOUR 

marshy  ground,  by  quays  and  filling  in  redeemed  from  the 
sea,  from  its  canals  and  peninsulas  is  called  the  Brazilian 
Venice.  Founded  in  1536  by  Duarte  Coelho,  it  was  in  the 
seventeenth  century  occupied  many  years  by  the  Dutch,  who 
were  finally  expelled  in  1654  by  the  patriotic  Portuguese. 
From  the  pretty  bridges  are  many  lovely  panoramas.  Several 
fine  markets,  two  theaters,  a  handsome  Congress  Ilall,  and  the 
Governor's  Palace  on  the  foundations  of  that  of  the  Prince  of 
Nassau  facing  the  Praca  da  Republica  are  noteworthy.  Two 
handsome  churches  are  those  of  Nossa  Senhora  da  Penha  of 
the  Corinthian  order  of  architecture  and  the  Boa  Vista.  The 
chief  expoi'ts  are  cotton  and  sugar;  the  imports  exceed  those 
of  any  Brazilian  city  except  Rio. 

The  next  State  on  the  north  is  Parahyha,  reputed  to 
have  vast  mineral  wealth  of  coal,  iron,  gold,  precious  stones, 
etc.,  as  yet  lying  tranquil  in  the  soil.  Then  comes  Bio  Grande 
do  Norte,  whose  enormous  saline  deposits  along  the  shore 
partly  compensate  for  its  barren  stretches  of  land  and  fre- 
quent droughts.  The  following  state,  Ccard,  is  closely  con- 
nected with  the  rubber  industry,  for  the  reason  that  on  account 
of  the  barren  sands  along  the  coast,  and  the  inland  droughts 
the  male  portion  of  the  inhabitants  is  in  large  numbers  driven 
to  the  rubber  districts  of  Amazonas.  Seasons  not  visited  by 
drought  are  characterized  by  immense  crops  and  bountiful 
dairy  products.  Fortaleza,  the  capital,  with  over  50,000 
inhabitants,  among  other  nice  buildings  possesses  a  great  pub- 
lic market  of  cast-iron.  Waterworks,  planned  on  a  large  scale 
to  alleviate  the  effects  of  the  droughts,  will  be  highly  bene- 
ficial. 

The  adjoining  state  of  Piauliy,  with  similar  low  and  melan- 
choly shores,  also  suffers  from  lack  of  rain.  A  town  is  spoken 
of  as  ''having  taken  the  name  of  a  river  that  was  so  poor  it 
ought  not  to  have  one  to  give  away."  Maranliao,  the  last 
state  before  reaching  Para  and  the  Amazon,  with  a  large  popu- 
lation of  negroes,  like  Baliia,  and  of  Indians  in  their  primitive 
condition,  has  as  its  capital  Sao  Luiz,  a  city  founded  by  the 
French,  and,  like  Bahia,  noted  for  its  literary  taste  and  cul- 
ture. An  indication  of  this  is  that  the  squares,  in  other  cities 
named  after  military  events  and  heroes,  are  here  called  after 
poets  and  other  writers. 


NORTHERN  BRAZIL  345 

Para  and  the  Amazon 

The  great  Amazon  River,  Ave  all  know,  is  tlie  largest  in 
the  world,  yet  its  immensity  is  hardly  realized.  In  size  of 
basin  and  volume  of  water  it  far  exceeds  the  Mississippi. 
P'or  a  distance  of  180  miles  from  shore  the  Atlantie  is  I'l-fsh- 
ened  by  its  waters,  whieh  vaiy  in  depth  in  the  estuary  from 
DO  to  900  feet.  Among  its  1100  tributaries,  great  and  small, 
there  are  seven  more  than  1000  miles  long,  not  counting  the 
]\Iaranon  and  Ueayali,  by  which  it  is  formed.  One,  the  -Ma- 
deira River,  has  a  length  of  3000  miles.  In  the  great  region 
which  it  drains  there  are  1200  varieties  of  bii'ds  and  SOOO 
animals  not  found  elsewhere,  to  say  nothing  of  the  pl.mts. 
The  soil  is  so  rich  that  corn  is  returned  800  fold. 

The  best  time  to  visit  the  Upper  Amazon  is  in  Ihr  tli\er 
season,  fi'om  June  to  the  middle  of  October,  or  in  Jainiai-y; 
the  worst  is  from  February  to  June.  The  climate  of  this 
section  is  attractive  only  to  those  who  enjoy  heat  and  rain ; 
the  heat  is  not  excessive,  but  contiiuious;  the  rain  is  often 
200  inches  annually.  Still  the  climate  is  called  fairly  healthy 
for  the  most  part,  with  small  sections  very  bad. 

Para,  the  most  important  in  wealth,  i)()pulMti'()n,  and  com- 
merce of  the  northern  States  of  Brazil,  is  a  name  familiar  to 
all,  to  many  simply  as  rnblier,  to  others  rather  as  a  city  than 
a  State:  iiiipi-oi)erly  so  indeed,  as  tlu'  city  by  its  residents  is 
feniied  Belem.  Founded  at  the  month  of  the  Amazon  in 
January,  1616,  it  is  youngei-  than  the  other  important  coMst 
cities,  while  the  State,  forineily  a  pait  of  Maranhao,  is  little 
more  than  a  century  old.  Tlie  date  of  .Inly  31.  ISdT.  when 
the  great  river,  pi-eviously  closed  to  all  liut  Bia/ilian  steam- 
ers, was  opened  to  the  na\igatioii  ol"  the  world,  is  that  of  the 
beginning  of  l^elem's  prosperity  aiul  wondei-ful  growth.  To- 
day a  city  of  ir)(),()()(l,  it  lies  on  the  e<lge  of  a  traiKpiil  lairoon 
called  (Juaraja  l'>ay,  foi-iiied  by  the  Tai-a  Kiver,  one  of  the 
several  mouths  of  the  great  Amazon.  Along  the  city  front  is 
a  forest  of  masts  and  smokestacks,  and  vessels  of  every  size 
and  character  jiass  to  and  fro.  Fine  docks  and  warehouses 
have  recently  been  constructed,  the  work,  bcirnn  in  1!MI7.  to  be 
continued  by  tlic  Toit  of  Para  Co.,  acording  to  the  ropiire- 
mcnts  which  are  rapiiliy  increasing,  since  facilities  must  ulti- 


346  T1IJ<]  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

iiiately  be  provided  for  a  traffic  from  an  area  of  the  more  than 
three  million  square  miles  embraced  in  the  Amazon  Valley. 
A  channel  30  feet  deep  leading  from  the  outer  river  to  the 
port  is  marked  by  26  modern  buoys,  illumined  by  acetylene 
gas,  with  lights  of  120-candle  power  intensified  by  a  lens. 
The  port  works  are  equal  to  the  best  at  Liverpool  and  Ham- 
burg, having  three-quarters  of  a  mile  of  quay  wall  with  water 
30  feet  deep  for  ocean  steamers,  722  feet  of  wall  with  12  feet 
of  water  for  river  steamers,  and  1500  feet  more  for  smaller 
boats  with  9  feet  6  inches  of  water.  The  wall  of  huge  blocks 
of  concrete  is  of  the  most  substantial  character.  On  a  road- 
way 60  feet  wide  are  electric  cranes  and  railways,  back  of 
which  are  large  Avarehouses.  Beyond  these  is  a  gi'anite-paved 
boulevard,  then  the  city  itself,  with  the  Custom  House,  mar- 
ket, banking  houses,  stores,  and  all  forms  of  commercial  ac- 
tivity. 

On  the  large  square,  Frei  C  acta  no  Brandao,  in  the  center 
of  which  is  a  statue  of  the  bishop  after  wliom  the  square  is 
named,  the  founder  of  the  first  hospital  in  the  city,  stands  the 
Cathedral  erected  in  1710,  elegant  and  harmonious,  of  rather 
severe  exterior,  but  within  brilliantly  decorated  in  high  colors. 
On  the  bay  side  of  this  square  are  the  ruins  of  an  old  fort 
called  Castello,  preserved  for  historic  interest.  The  principal 
plaza  is  the  Independencia,  adorned  with  flower  beds,  with 
lawns,  busbies,  and  trees;  but  the  people  here  loving  nature 
and  flowers,  no  one  ever  steps  on  the  lawns  or  plucks  a  blos- 
som, which  indeed  is  the  case  in  the  otlier  cities  of  Latin 
America.  In  the  center  of  the  square  is  a  monument  to 
General  Gurjao,  a  superb  bronze  statue  of  a  soldier  who  died 
fighting,  while  he  exclaimed,  "See  how  a  Brazilian  General 
dies!"  At  the  side  of  the  plaza,  Parque  Affonso  Penna,  is 
the  Government  Palace  erected  in  1776,  and  near  by  the  blue 
tinted  City  Hall  of  colonial  days,  containing  in  the  main  hall 
a  beautiful  painting  of  the  death  of  the  great  musician,  Carlos 
Gomez,  who  died  here. 

In  the  square,  Visconde  de  Bio  Branco,  on  a  marble  base 
is  the  most  artistic  monument  of  the  city,  a  bronze  statue  of 
the  Brazilian  patriot,  Jose  da  Gama  Malcher,  with  the  figure 
of  a  beautiful  young  girl  below  writing  the  name  of  the  hero. 


PARA  347 

Anolhei'  garden,  Baptista  Cdiiipos,  is  a  little  paradise  with 
fountains,  lakes,  bridges,  plants,  etc. 

A  unique  public  recreation  ground  at  the  otlier  end  ol  the 
eity  is  a  tract  of  primitive  woods,  called  O  liosqut ,  dense  and 
somber  with  great  trees  which  as  the  city  grew  in  that  direc- 
tion was  with  wonderful  foresiglit  preserved  by  the  ^luniei- 
pality.  Driveways  were  openc^l  disclosing  its  poetic  beauty, 
greenhouses,  cascades,  fountains  and  otlier  embellisinuents 
added,  making  it  a  resort  of  which  the  i)eoj)le  ai-e  i)roud. 

The  usual  Praqa  da  Republica  contains  a  beautiful  marble 
monument  with  bronze  figures  commemorating  the  proclama- 
tion of  the  Republic.  On  this  s(iu;ire,  the  heart  of  the  city,  is 
the  Paz  Theater  of  white  marble,  imposing  and  austere,  of  the 
Corinthian  order  of  architecture,  with  a  tranquil  grandeur 
unlike  any  other  in  South  America.  The  interior  is  dec- 
orated with  paintings  by  De  Angelis  sui-rounded  by  high  gold 
reliefs,  contains  a  foyer  with  a  beautiful  inlaid  lloor,  and  has 
everything  in  lighting  and  mechanical,  devices  of  the  most 
modern  type.     The  Paz  Hotel  is  near. 

Notable  churches  are  Santa  Anna,  built  in  17G1,  and  Our 
Ladij  of  the  Canno,  about  the  same  date,  and  Our  Ladji  of 
Nazareth,  built  in  1802,  whei'e  seamen  esi)ecially  bring  offer- 
ings, wax  miniatures  of  boats  and  other  objects  of  maritime 
life,  forming  a  curious  museum  of  nautical  art. 

The  greatest  interest  and  admiration  may  be  excited  by 
the  Goeldi  Museum,  one  of  the  most  famous  in  South  America, 
and  now  under  the  direction  of  Dr.  Jaccpies  Iluber.  The 
building  is  surrounded  by  fine  specimens  of  the  Amazonian 
forests  with  the  finest  collection  in  the  woi-ld  of  the  Ilara 
hrasiliensis,  the  best  of  the  many  varieties  of  rubber  trees; 
and  the  expei'imental  gai'deii  ])rol)ably  contains  every  s|)ecies 
of  rubber  known,  with  many  other  i)lants  of  eommereial  value. 
Of  equal  or  greater  interest  are  tlie  arcluvological,  ethnological, 
and  zoological  (lei)ai"tments.  Here  are  collections  of  pottery 
of  e.xtijict  Indian  ti-ibes  iidiabitiiig  this  region  at  the  time  of 
the  Portuguese  discovery,  with  funeral  urns  and  pottery  from 
mounds  of  the  Island  of  Mara.jo.  "Weapons  and  utensils  of 
the  Amazonian  Indians  are  shown.  The  collection  of  Bra- 
zilian fauna  comprises  a  complete  .series  of  Amazonian  mon- 


348  THE  SOUTH   A.MHRICAX  TOUR 

keys,  a  great  variety  of  birds,  the  lai-^fr  mammals,  as  the 
tapir,  jjignar,  etc.,  and  insects.  ]\Iany  living  creatures, 
aquatic  l)ir(ls,  parrots,  toucans  of  gorgeous  plumage,  alli- 
gators, anacondas,  boa  constrictors,  electric  eels,  and  many 
others,  safely  caged,  enchain  the  attention. 

The  Lauro  Sodre  Institute  for  industrial  and  agricultural 
training,  a  School  of  Commerce,  a  Fine  Arts  Academy,  and 
other  establishments  for  education,  for  the  sick,  and  the  poor 
are  liberally  provided.  A  fine  new  Market  is  not  of  small 
importance.  The  broad,  clean,  well  shaded  streets  are  often 
lined  with  beautiful  villas  and  gardens;  though  but  a  degree 
and  a  half  from  the  equator  the  heat  is  not  excessive,  rarely 
al)ove  90°  Fahr. 

Manaos.  The  visitor  to  Para,  is  likely  to  be  on  his  way 
up  the  Amazon  to  Manaos  or  Iquitos ;  if  a  bit  of  an  explorer, 
perchance  to  Bolivia  by  the  neAvly  prae  icable  Madeira  and 
^lamore  route,  or  to  the  rubber  regions  in  any  one  of  five 
countries.  The  city  of  Para  is  about  80  miles  from  the  pilot 
station  Salinas ;  and  a  further  journey  of  2-4  hours,  nearly  200 
miles,  is  required,  across  a  bay,  then  for  nine  hours  through 
a  narrow  channel,  before  one  really  enters  the  broad  stream 
of  the  great  Amazon.  Along  the  narrows  the  landscape  is 
charming ;  clearings  with  huts  and  children  are  frequent ; 
canoes  with  fishermen,  and  small  steamers  calling  at  the  bar- 
racas  (plantations)  for  rubber  or  to  bring  provisions  are  nu- 
merous. The  luxuriant  vegetation  is  fascinating.  But  from 
the  remoteness  of  the  shores,  on  the  immense  wide  river  the 
four  or  five  days  to  Manaos  may  be  somewhat  monotonous. 
The  greater  will  be  the  surprise  of  the  uninformed  traveler 
when  after  900  miles  through  the  enormous  wilderness  of 
forest  he  arrives  at  this  new  city,  with  a  population  of  80,000, 
truly  a  wonder  of  wonders.  Its  location  is  near  the  junction 
of  the  Rio  Negro  with  the  Amazon ;  one  writer  says  on  a  large 
bay,  another  that  it  is  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Negro  eight 
miles  from  the  Amazon.  At  all  events  it  has  a  safe  and  quiet 
harbor  with  excellent  port  works  arranged  to  fit  the  rise  and 
fall  of  the  river,  about  50  feet.  A  floating  roadway  extends 
into  the  river,  a  platform  and  pontoons  supporting  ware- 
houses; and  ocean  steamships  come  alongside.  Hills  have 
been  lowered,  shallow  places  filled  in,  and  waterworks  and 


NORTHERN  P>RAZIL  349 

drainage  systems  supplied ;  so  that  a  remarkable  eity  indeed 
is  here  in  the  forest.  It  is  said  to  be  the  best  lighted  eity  in 
IJijizil.  Tile  Municipal  street,  100  feet  wide,  is  lined  with 
handsome  buildings.  The  Eduardo  Kibciro  avenue  in  the  aft- 
(  rnoon  and  evening  is  thronged  with  people  of  wealth  and 
fjisliion.  The  Amazonas  Theater,  on  this  avenue  and  S.  Se- 
Ijaiitiao  Scjuare,  is  of  astonishing  magniMeenee,  having  eost 
$2,000,000;  its  beautiful  colored  dome  is  a  conspicuous  feature 
from  the  harbor.  The  interior  compares  with  the  splendid  ex- 
terior, allegorical  paintings  by  De  Angelis,  the  celebrated  Ital- 
ian artist,  ornamenting  the  ceilings  of  foyer  and  auditorium. 
Tile  Palace  of  Justice,  a  white  marble  building  in  Roman  style, 
with  a  bronze  and  marble  staircase,  is  also  imposing.  The 
Cathedral  is  a  vast  temide  of  simi>le  areliitecture.  There  are 
excellent  school  buildings,  a  public  libi-ary,  a  museum  with 
curious  Amazonian  specimens,  a  spacious  market  cool  and 
well  ventilated,  and  a  public  garden  with  music  from  six  till 
midnight.  Electric  fans  are  everywhere  in  evidence,  ice  here 
manufai'tured  is  supplie*]  in  abundance,  and  exeellent  sanita- 
tion makes  the  cajntal  surprisingly  free  from  sickness. 

Iquitos.  By  ocean  steamers,  the  Booth  Line  from  New  York 
and  from  London,  the  journey  may  be  pursued  up  the  Amazon 
as  far  as  Irjuitos  in  Peru,  a  city  of  15,000  population,  where 
the  Amazon,  over  2000  miles  from  its  mouth,  still  has  a  width 
of  nearly  three  miles  and  an  average  depth  of  2")  feet,  twice 
that  in  the  rainy  season.  The  city  is  a  few  leagues  below  the 
junction  of  the  Mai-nnon  and  the  Fcayali,  by  which  the  Ama- 
zon is  f()i'me(L  l(|uitos  is  (piite  cosmopolitan  with  i-cpreseiita- 
tives  from  various  Euro|iean  and  American  nation^.  It  has 
many  warehou.ses,  and  commercial  and  other  mocK'rn  buildings 
of  brick  and  iron.  One  hundred  and  fifty  feet  above  the  river 
and  sui-rounded  by  dense  forests,  the  climate  is  not  so  bad 
as  it  might  be,  though  the  temperature  averages  ^'y°  to  JK)" 
all  tlic  yc;ir  around  :  as  a  rule  the  jilace  is  not  unhealthy. 

Rubber  is  the  principal  occasion  for  its  being  and  growth, 
and  its  commei-ee  is  rapidly  increasing.  In  all  directions  lie 
the  rubber  forests,  or  more  accurately  the  forests  which  eon- 
tain  rubber  trees.  For  these  do  not  grow  conveniently  in 
groves,  except  lure  and  there  occasionally  a  few  tre«'s,  but 
scattered  singly  in  the  damp  forest,  perhaps  100  or  InO  trees 


350  THE  SOUTH  AMKRICAN  TOUR 

in  ail  cstrada  or  section  oi'  about  lUU  acres,  an  area  whicli  a 
single  man  can  take  care  of.  The  estrada  is  really  the  path 
leading  from  one  tree  to  another.  The  man,  called  the  serin- 
gueiro,  sets  out  early  in  the  morning  with  hatchet  and  tin  cups 
or  basins ;  he  makes  on  each  tree  several  incisions,  4  to  6  inches 
apart  around  the  tree.  By  the  time  the  round  of  3  or  4  miles 
is  finished  it  is  time  for  lunch ;  then  the  collection  may  begin,, 
the  tins  containing  the  fluid  called  latex  are  emptied  into  a 
pail,  eight  or  ten  quarts  in  all,  producing  about  as  many 
pounds  of  rubber.  This  is  finished  by  noon,  after  which  the 
latex  must  be  smoked  over  a  wood  fire ;  it  is  coagulated  on 
a  sort  of  ladle  twirled  over  the  smoke.  Fresh  coats  are  added 
when  one  is  dry  until  a  holaclia  or  biscuit  is  formed  of  from 
5  to  100  lbs.  The  man  who  does  this  work  may  be  a  native 
Indian  or  a  resident  of  Ceara  or  elsewhere.  He  works  for  a 
contractor  who  may  employ  several  hundred.  Many  atrocities 
have  been  committed  by  these  contractors,  who  have  com- 
pelled the  defenseless  Indians  to  work  for  them  without  pay 
and  have  inflicted  cruelties,  torture,  and  murder  upon  them 
and  their  families,  especially  in  the  Putomayo  district,  where 
an  English  Company  has  been  engaged.  Through  recent 
investigations  the  cruelties  have  been  terminated  for  the  mo- 
ment; but  such  is  the  greed  and  inhumanity  of  some  pro- 
fessedly civilized  men  that  close  watch  must  be  kept  by  hu- 
mane officials  to  prevent  further  abuses  and  the  extermination 
of  harmless  savages. 

The  rubber  is  collected  in  this  way  from  trees  called  jche 
or  hevea,  but  there  are  many  varieties  of  trees  which  produce 
rubber  of  varying  excellence.  A  kind  of  tree  called  the 
caucho  which  grows  on  higher  land  is  cut  down  by  the 
cauchero  and  the  entire  latex  is  extracted,  averaging  about 
50  lbs.  to  a  tree;  this  is  a  quality  of  less  value.  Brazil  has 
a  heavy  export  tax  on  rubber,  Bolivia  about  half  as  much, 
while  Peru  exacts  less  than  a  quarter. 

The  terrors,  perils,  and  the  fascination  (to  some  few)  of  the 
immense  and  aw^ful  forest  are  in  many  books  described.  Few 
are  the  explorers  who,  aided  by  many  hands  wielding  ma- 
chetes, have  penetrated  far  into  the  jungle  from  the  flowing 
river  roads.  For  their  adventures  I  have  no  space.  Yet  in 
these  days  of  doughty  deeds  by  valiant  women,  a  far  more 


NORTHERN  BRAZIL  351 

wonderful  exploit  by  one  Avho  doubtless  had  no  wish  to  usurp 
man's  functions  as  an  explorer  may  here  be  chronich-d.  Long, 
long  ago,  in  1769,  when  the  forests  were  untroddi-n  even  by 
the  casual  rubber  gatherer,  ]\Iadame  Godin,  to  join  her  hus- 
band in  Guiana,  left  Riobamba  in  Ecuador  with  two  brothers, 
a  nephew,  a  physician,  three  women  domestics,  a  negro  servant, 
and  thirty  Indians.  Having  passed  over  the  great  mountain 
range  they  embarked  on  a  stream,  one  of  the  many  affluents  of 
the  Amazon,  to  meet  with  repeated  disasters.  Their  boat 
was  upset,  their  supplies  and  baggage  were  lost.  The  Indians 
deserted.  A  raft  being  made,  tliis  also  foundered.  Proceed- 
ing on  foot,  lost  in  the  forest  they  wandered  until,  exhausted 
with  starvation  and  effort,  they  lay  down  to  die.  This  all  the 
rest  did,  l)ut  after  two  days  by  her  dead  companions.  Madame 
Godin  arose.  Shoeless,  her  clothing  nearly  gone,  witli  no  food 
save  roots  and  herbs  she  struggled  on  amid  the  terrors  of  the 
jungle  till  after  nine  days  she  met  two  so-called  savages. 
These  treated  her  kindly,  ministering  to  her  needs  till  she  was 
able  to  proceed,  then  conducted  her  to  a  white  settlement  far- 
ther down.  As  a  white-haired  woman  she  ultinuitely  reached 
Para  and  joined  her  husband,  a  notaljle  ilhistration  of  the 
xccahcr  sex. 

The  Madeira  Mamore  Railway.  Only  the  unusually  enter- 
prising tourist,  the  explorer,  or  the  business  man  will  be  likely 
to  investigate  this  new  railway,  but  all  may  like  to  know  a 
little  about  it.  The  ^Madeira,  the  largest  tributary  of  the 
Amazon,  comes  in  from  tlie  south  a  little  below  ^lanaos,  and 
is  the  outlet  and  means  of  access  to  a  large  portion  of  the 
state  of  iMatto  Grosso  in  Brazil  and  of  the  country  of  Bolivia 
as  well.  Continuous  river  navigation  has,  however,  been  im- 
possible on  account  of  a  series  of  10  falls  and  rapids  on  the 
IMadeira  and  >\Iamore  rivers  within  a  distance  of  200  miles, 
thus  preventing  earlier  development  of  a  section  rich  not  only 
in  rubber,  but  in  minerals,  and  in  agricultural  and  stock-rais- 
ing possil)ilities.  About  570  miles  up  the  Madeira  River  is 
the  new  city  of  Porto  Velho,  where  the  railway  l)egins,  now 
completed  for  a  distance  of  202  miles  to  Guajara  Mirim  on 
the  Mamore,  about  due  south.  Tiius  has  been  accomplished  a 
work  which  in  1H60  was  planned  by  an  American,  Col.  George 
Earl  Church,  under  a  concession   from  Brazil  and   Bolivia. 


352  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

In  1871  he  turned  tlie  first  sod  of  the  railway,  but  financial 
and  other  difficulties  soon  caused  the  suspension  of  operations. 
In  1878  another  elfort  was  made,  also  to  meet  disaster.  To-day 
the  better  know^ledge  of  the  causes  of  tropical  diseases  and  of 
methods  of  sanitation  has  caused  the  task  to  be  triumphantly 
concluded.  Construction  work,  begun  in  August,  1907,  was 
carried  on  with  such  effect  that  in  spite  of  many  difficulties 
the  final  section  of  the  road  was  opened  for  traffic  July  15, 
1912.  As  yet  there  is  no  fast  express,  two  days  being  required 
for  the  journey.  Porto  Velho,  the  northern  terminus  of  the 
road,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Madeira,  is  a  town  of  1500 
people,  "vvith  an  ice  plant  making  six  tons  a  day,  piped  water 
supply  of  two  kinds,  one  for  internal  use,  and  with  wireless 
telegraphic  communication  with  Manaos,  hence  close  relations 
with  the  rest  of  the  world.  To  this  port  ocean  steamers  may 
come  during  part  of  the  year,  November  to  June,  and  large 
river  steamers  at  any  time.  The  residence  part  of  the  city  is 
on  a  hill  a  little  back.  Regular  trains  three  times  a  week 
leave  at  8  a.  m.  The  greater  part  of  the  journey  is  through 
the  jungle  in  a  cut  100  feet  wide,  though  in  places  the  river 
is  visible,  at  Santo  Antonio  a  picturesque  view  including  the 
first  cascades.  Near  Caldeiro  Station  is  one  of  the  worst  places 
on  the  river,  called  the  Devil's  Caldron,  invisible,  however, 
from  the  track.  South  of  IMutum  are  25  miles  of  straight 
track  passing  through  an  immense  rubber  concession  to  the 
company.  At  Abuna,  218  kms.,  where  the  train  is  due  at  5.30 
p.  m.,  halt  is  made  for  the  night  close  to  the  river.  Leaving 
Abuna  at  7.30  the  next  morning  the  arrival  at  the  terminus 
should  be  at  3.15  p.  m.  Villa  oMurtinho,  93  kms.  south  of 
Abuna,  is  just  opposite  the  town  of  Villa  Bella  in  Bolivia, 
and  the  junction  of  the  Beni  and  Mamore,  tlje  Bolivian  city 
being  between  the  two  rivers;  the  Mamore  from  here  south 
forms  the  boundary  between  the  two  countries.  At  the  ter- 
minal, Guajara  Mirim,  there  is  another  town  of  the  same 
name  on  the  opposite  shore  in  Bolivia,  from  which  a  railroad 
is  now  being  constructed  to  Riberalta,  an  important  town  of 
Bolivia,  near  the  edge  of  the  Amazonian  forest  and  the  Bo- 
livian cattle  country.  For  the  development  of  northern 
Bolivia  which  is  drained  by  the  Beni  River,  this  railway  will 
be  a  great  motive  power,  as  also  for  Matto  Grosso  of  Brazil. 


NORTH  HI  J. \  BRAZIL  353 

An  enormous  region  of  rubber  jiud  of  iiumy  other  possibilities 
is  hereby  rendered  accessible,  as  this  great  aeeoinplishiiieiit  is 
to  be  supplemented  in  Bolivia  by  other  important  connections. 
The  formal  inauguration  of  the  road  already  long  in  use  was 
I)osti)oiied  on  account  of  the  desire  of  the  Pi-esident  of  lira/.il 
to  assist  in  person  at  the  ceremonies. 

It  is  an  item  of  interest  that  the  head  waters  of  the  Gua- 
pore  River,  a  brancli  of  the  ^Madeira,  are  so  close  to  those  of 
the  stream  Aguapehy,  tributary  to  the  Jauru  and  Paraguay 
rivers,  that  they  could  be  connected  by  a  canal  less  than  1000 
feet  long.  Years  ago  the  trip  across  from  the  Amazon  waters 
to  the  Paraguay-Parana  basin  was  made  in  a  canoe  by  hardy 
Portuguese  explorers  following  this  route,  whieh  in  the  years 
to  come  may  develop  into  a  fre(iuented  waterway. 

Any  one  wishing  to  make  the  journey  from  Manaos  up  tiie 
]\Iadeira  to  the  railway  is  obliged  to  pay  a  tax  of  9  milreis,  in 
addition  to  a  deposit  of  50$  for  hospital  or  funeral  expenses 
in  case  he  should  contract  yellow  fever  or  other  serious  ail, 
but  the  i'iO.'j;  ai-e  refunded  on  his  safe  return. 

On  the  Way  Home.  Vvw  Mill  sail  away  from  the  match- 
less liarbor  and  city  of  Rio  without  keen  regret  and  the  de- 
termination to  revisit  them  at  the  eai'liest  ])ossiljle  moment, 
thougli  with  these  once  lost  to  view  he  may  look  eagerly  for- 
ward to  the  conclusion  of  the  homeward  voyage.  This  at  pres- 
ent by  the  Lamport  and  Holt  steamers  occupies  16  or  l'^ 
days,  which  are  happily  spent  on  their  large  and  luxurious 
vessels,  the  several  calls  en  route  relieving  any  p()ssil)le  mo- 
notony. The  weather  is  generally  delightful,  two  weeks  of 
summer,  not  too  hot,  followed  by  one  never  knows  what,  for 
the  two  or  three  days  before  reaching  New  York. 

A  few  may  prefer  to  take  ship  to  a  j^tiropcan  jxirt  and  sjx-nil 
some  time  on  the  other  side  before  returning  home,  but  there 
is  no  longer  a  necessity  for  going  tliat  way  in  order  to  have  a 
comfortable  voyage.  Although  the  steamers  of  the  English 
Line  are  a  trifle  faster,  even  with  the  best  connection  at 
Southampton  or  Liverpool  the  time  to  Ni-w  York  is  longer. 

Bahia.  About  60  hours  from  Hio  on  the  third  morning  (tf 
the  return  voyage,  the  ship  is  likely  to  l)e  at  anchor  in  tlie 
harbor  of  liahid.  once  the  capital  of  Hra/.il.  and  now  with  a 
population  of  ;ilO,000  its  third  city.     It  is  Tl'O  miles  from  its 


354  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

ancient  rival.  Founded  in  1549  by  Thom^  de  Souza  this  is  the 
oldest  of  all  the  Br-azilian  cities  and  has  ever  been  a  place  not 
only  of  commercial  importance  but  of  artistic  and  literary 
culture  and  of  sumptuous  religious  sanctuaries.  Until  1762 
it  was  the  seat  of  colonial  power.  The  location  of  the  city  on 
the  east  side  of  a  deep  and  well  protected  gulf  is  admirable; 
its  beauty  would  excite  enthusiasm  if  it  were  seen  before 
Rio  instead  of  afterwards.  The  name  of  this  city  is  really 
Sao  Salvador,  while  the  bay  is  Bahia  de  Todos  os  Santos,  Bay 
of  All  Saints,  the  name  Bahia  of  the  State  having,  as  in  the 
case  of  Pernambuco  and  Para,  by  foreigners  been  transferred 
to  that  of  its  capital  city.  Its  appearance  is  indeed  striking, 
with  its  upper  and  lower  town,  the  former  crowning  a  high 
and  almost  perpendicular  blutf,  the  latter,  looking  almost  as  if 
it  had  been  pushed  over  the  edge,  occupying  a  narrow  strip 
along  the  water  front,  both  sections  charmingly  variegated  by 
dense  tropical  foliage.  Conspicuous  from  a  distance  are  the 
great  elevators  connecting  the  upper  and  lower  town  and  many 
large  buildings,  towers,  and  churches. 

In  a  small  boat  one  may  be  rowed  a  mile  from  the  anchorage 
to  the  landing,  then  passing  to  Ribeira  street,  may  follow  this 
to  an  elevator  at  the  right  or  by  a  steep  and  narrow  street  on 
the  face  of  the  bluff  may  climb  to  the  top.  By  the  elevator, 
imported  from  the  United  States,  15  or  20  may  be  lifted  to 
the  edge  of  a  pretty  square  above,  the  Praga  da  Constituigdo. 
At  the  right  is  the  site  of  the  ancient  Government  Building, 
spoiled  by  the  Dutch  in  1636,  later  repaired,  and  recently  re- 
built, with  a  new  four-faced  clock  tower  added ;  but  in  Janu- 
ary, 1912,  it  was  riddled  by  shots  from  Brazilian  w^arships  on 
account  of  an  insurrection.  In  1915  it  was  again  being  re- 
stored. A  large  attractive  building  at  the  rear  of  this  square, 
which  formerly  was  the  residence  of  the  Portuguese  Gov- 
ernors and  the  Presidents  of  the  Province,  has  been  rebuilt 
from  the  foundations  and  is  now  the  ^Municipal  Building. 
The  American  Consulate,  formerly  on  this  square,  is  now  on 
the  IMain  street  (No.  27)  of  the  lower  town.  Narrow  lanes 
of  three  centuries  gone,  lead  from  here  in  several  directions; 
but  some  of  them  are  traversed  by  electric  cars  which  fre- 
quently leave  the  Plaza  for  diverse  sections.     A  pleasant  sub- 


PKAJA    DE    FREI    CAETAMi    lii;\M'.\",     1' M-^ 


BAHIA  355 

urban  ride  is  by  a  car  marked  Barra  thron^di  some  of  the 
fine  residence  streets,  by  the  side  of  beautiful  parks,  to  the 
lighthouse  on  the  site  of  an  old  fort  on  Cape  Barra  at  the  en- 
trance to  the  bay.  There  is  a  fine  view  from  the  lighthouse 
top,  well  worth  the  elind).  Kctuniing  to  the  ('aini)o  (Jrande, 
on  which  is  a  little  English  (Muireh  and  the  English  Club, 
one  may  there  change  cars  for  the  fishing  village  and  suburb 
of  Rio  Vermelho. 

The  narrow  Chili  street  runs  from  the  Pra<;a  da  Const  i- 
tui<;ao  to  the  Castro  Alvcs  Square,  150  h'vt  above  the  bay,  with 
a  Statue  of  Columbus  surmounting  a  marble  fountain  in  the 
garden.  On  one  side  is  the  San  Joao  Theater.  Here  also  are 
the  Paris  and  the  Sul  Americano  Hotels,  and  the  buildini;  of 
the  journal,  the  Diario  da  Bahia.  Following  from  liere  Sao 
Bento  street  we  may  come  to  the  ri<dade  Square  with  a  pretty 
garden,  and  a  marble  fountain  with  a  symbolic  statue  of  an 
Indian  stepping  on  a  serpent.  On  one  side  of  the  square  is 
the  I'iednde  Church,  on  another  the  Senate  House,  of  Italian 
style  of  architecture.  Passing  the  Police  Headquarters,  a 
pretty  street,  Pedro  Luiz,  with  modern  buildings,  leads  to  the 
Passeio  Publico,  a  delightful  resting  place,  the  largest  and 
most  popular  in  the  city,  shaded  by  mango  trees,  containing 
an  obelisk  of  Egyptian  marble,  commemorating,  one  says,  the 
arrival  of  King  Joao  VI  in  Brazil,  another  the  opening  of 
Brazilian  ports  to  foreign  commerce  in  1808.  At  one  side,  on 
the  AflHictos  S(|uare.  the  thick  walls  of  an  old  fortress  have 
been  remodeled  into  police  barracks.  A  steep  street  leads 
down  from  the  Passeio  Publico  to  a  colonial  fortification.  llie 
(himboa  Fortress  at  the  edge  of  the  water. 

The  Largo  Du<iue  dc  Caxias  contains  in  a  pretty  garden  an 
itiiliosing  juoinunent  of  Carrara  marble  and  Ijronze,  100  feet 
in  height,  named  the  Dois  de  Julho,  the  date  of  the  evacuation 
of  the  State  by  the  Portugiu*se  trooi)s  in  1S24,  which  sealed 
its  independence.  At  the  toj)  of  the  tall  Corinthian  Colnmii 
stands  the  tradition;'!  Indian  with  foot  on  a  dragon,  signify- 
ing the  trium|)li  over  desi)otism.  Colossal  ligures  of  bronze 
represent  the  great  rivers  of  Brazil,  with  other  accessories 
making  this  one  of  the  finest  monuments  in  Brazil.  A  n<>tal)le 
peculiarity  of  the  city  is  that  the  monuments  are  of  .synd)olie 
character  and  not  of  individuals,  no  busts  or  .statues  of  lieroes 


356  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

save  one  to  the  English  philanthropist,  Dr.  Paterson,  a  physi- 
cian whose  good  works  were  many.  In  the  Praca  do  Riachu- 
elo,  which  is  overlooked  by  the  handsome  edifice  of  the  Com- 
mercial Association,  another  beautiful  monument,  a  marble 
pillar  surmounted  by  a  flying  Victory,  commemorates  the  tri- 
umph of  Brazil  over  Paraguay  in  the  terrible  war  of  1864- 
70. 

Among  a  number  of  interesting  churches  is  the  San  Fran- 
cisco, built  in  1713  with  elaborate  and  gorgeous  interior  deco- 
rations. The  Collegio  Church  of  the  Jesuits,  now  the  Cathe- 
dral, built  of  stone  prior  to  1572,  on  the  Largo  Quinze  de 
Novembro,  has  an  imposing  interior,  the  details  of  its  ornamen- 
tation, from  the  design  of  the  main  altar  to  the  work  in  the 
ceiling,  making  it  perhaps  the  most  curious  in  Brazil.  A 
Benedictine  Church,  San  Sehastido,  on  a  central  eminence,  is 
peculiar  in  being  all  white  inside  and  out,  the  main  altar  and 
the  Saints '  images  of  Carrara  marble,  while  the  two  towers  and 
the  dome,  the  highest  spot  in  the  city,  are  white  also.  Oldest 
of  all  in  Bahia  is  the  Church  Nossa  Senhora  da  Ajuda. 

Bahia  boasts  of  one  of  the  best  Medical  Schools  in  South 
America,  with  a  finer  building  than  the  School  in  Rio  pos- 
sesses; this  on  the  Largo  Quinze  de  Novembro.  It  has  also  a 
Law  College  and  other  excellent  schools,  one  of  the  most  val- 
uable, a  Lyceum  of  Arts  and  Trades  founded  in  1872  with  day 
and  night  classes,  workshops,  and  class  rooms,  and  2500  pupils 
in  attendance.  A  Public  Library  with  30,000  volumes,  a  Mu- 
nicipal with  20,000,  and  still  others  are  of  good  service  to  the 
people.  The  Poorhouse  is  an  attractive  looking  place  and 
there  are  excellent  hospitals. 

In  the  eastern  suburbs  are  charming  vistas ;  and  of  homely 
interest  are  the  hundreds  of  colored  women  engaged  in  laun- 
dry work  along  a  little  stream  with  the  clothing  spread  out 
upon  the  grass  and  bushes.  No  machine  washed  and  dried 
clothing  there,  but  all  done  in  good  fresh  air. 

Bahia  is  the  great  cocoa  port  of  Brazil,  furnishing  about 
one-fifth  of  the  world's  supply;  also  a  great  tobacco  port, 
the  State  producing  about  as  much  as  Cuba.  One  may  ask 
what  does  it  not  produce  rather  than  what  it  does :  coffee,  to- 
bacco, rubber,  cotton,  sugar,  nuts,  woods,  etc.,  besides  a  wealth 
of  minerals  of  great  diversity;  the  largest  diamond  carbonate 


NORTHERN  BRAZIL  357 

ever  discovered  was  found  here  in  1895.  It  weighed  3150 
carats  and  was  divided  in  Paris  into  smaller  stones.  Here 
only  are  found  black  diamonds,  of  great  value  for  drills. 
Gold,  copper,  and  many  of  the  precious  stones  exist  in  various 
sections.  Even  the  sand  is  exported,  being  worth  $100  a  ton  : 
some,  at  least,  of  a  deposit  found  by  an  American  engineer 
along  the  shore,  called  monazite,  rich  in  thorium  silicate,  used 
chiefly  for  incandescent  gas  mantles. 

The  lower  part  of  the  city  should  not  be  ignored,  for  here 
are  the  commercial  houses,  the  markets,  Custom  House,  arse- 
nals. Post  Office,  factories,  and  many  of  the  stores.  Recently 
it  has  been  much  improved,  having  now  many  good  buildings, 
well  paved  streets,  and  a  pretty  plaza. 

On  the  boundary  of  this  State  are  the  Paulo  Affonso  Falls 
of  the  San  Francisco  River,  worth  visiting  if  time  permits;  the 
valley  is  one  of  the  most  fertile  regions  of  the  glol)e.  A  line 
of  comfortable  steamers  subsidized  by  the  State,  running  to 
Pernambueo,  gives  opportunity  to  change  at  Penedo.  about  30 
miles  up  tiie  river,  to  a  smaller  boat,  whieh  aseends  to  Piran- 
has, near  the  foot  of  the  cataract,  150  miles  farther,  a  two 
days'  journey.  A  railway  runs  from  Piranhas  to  Jatoba.  71 
miles,  to  navigation  above  the  Falls.  Pedras,  the  Falls  station, 
is  about  half  way.  Then  a  ride  of  two  hours  or  so  brings  one 
to  the  great  canon.  ^leu  living  near,  for  a  .small  fee,  will  act 
as  guides.  There  are  various  rapids  and  one  high  fall ;  the 
river  first  cominvssed  by  rock  banks  is  divided  into  five  nar- 
row branches  through  roek  clefts,  four  of  which  tumbling 
down  15  or  20  feet  become  a  mass  of  foam  and  rush  down  a 
steep  incline,  with  a  roar  audible  for  miles,  in  splenilid  rapids. 
The  four  branches  soon  unite,  rushing  on  to  the  great  Fall.  tin- 
Mai  da  Cachoeira,  where  all  five  take  a  grand  leaj)  of  PKi  feet, 
which  may  best  be  surveyed  lying  prone  on  a  flat  rock  72  feet 
above  the  Fall,  too  awe-insi)iring  a  sight  to  be  enjoyed  by 
every  one,  but  to  tliose  of  steady  nerve  a  magnificent  si^'ctade. 
A  visit  to  the  Pat's  Cave  may  as  well  be  omitted. 

Unless  one  stays  over  a  steamer  in  Haiiia,  one  may  have  but 
a  glimpse  of  the  city's  many  attractions  and  of  course  none  of 
the  unique,  solitary,  yet  some  day  to  be  famous,  waterfalls. 
Five  or  six  hours  only  on  shore  are  'generally  permitted  to  the 
tourist,  tliough  the  steamer  is  likely  to  delay  several  more  after 


358  TllK  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

the  return  on  board.  But  it  docs  not  do  to  take  chances  on 
so  imi)ortaiit  a  matter. 

From  Jialiia  the  sail  is  generally  to  Port  au  Spain,  Trinidad, 
where  the  hours  will  be  a  pleasure  aften  ten  days  on  the  broad 
ocean.  Once  more  you  are  in  a  land  where  you  will  hear 
English  "as  she  is  spoken"  in  various  ways  by  persons  of  va- 
rious complexions.  A  drive  past  the  Victoria  Institute,  the 
Government  House,  and  the  market  place  to  the  reservoir,  the 
Botanical  Garden,  and  to  the  beautiful  Queen's  Park  Hotel 
will  be  greatly  enjoyed;  and  the  opportunity  for  shopping  in 
the  excellent  stores  or  from  the  natives  who  bring  wares  to 
the  boat  will  be  improved  by  some  whose  purses  are  not  yet 
empty.  On  the  regular  steamers,  there  is  no  opportunity  to 
visit  the  celebrated  Pitch  Lake  some  miles  away,  a  lake  with 
an  area  of  114  acres,  on  the  surface  of  which  one  may  walk 
if  he  moves  along  promptly.  This  is  the  main  source  of  the 
supply  of  asphalt  used  in  the  United  States. 

The  next  morning  the  steamer  is  at  Bridgetown  in  Barbados, 
a  pleasant  old  town  where  some  hours  may  be  spent  in  a  drive, 
a  stroll,  or  in  shopping  to  buy  a  few  curios  or  embroideries. 
This  is  surely  British  soil,  though  90  per  cent  of  the  inhabit- 
ants are  negroes.  Near  the  landing  is  Trafalgar  Square,  with 
a  bronze  statue  of  Nelson  in  the  center,  justly  his  due  as  it  was 
he  who  preserved  Great  Britain's  West  Indian  possessions  in 
1805.  Here  are  the  government  buildings  and  St.  Michael's, 
the  Anglican  church.  A  Carnegie  Library  and  a  Salvation 
Army  Building  not  far  away  may  be  reminders  that  we  are 
approaching  home.  The  Woman's  Self -Help  Association,  also 
on  the  Square,  invites  and  deserves  patronage ;  for  Indian  pot- 
tery and  other  curios,  lace,  embroidery,  and  various  edibles 
may  here  be  procured  at  modest  prices.  A  house  called  ^Yil- 
ton  at  the  corner  of  Bay  street  and  Chelsea  road  is  of  interest 
as  being  in  1751  the  temporary  residence  of  George  Washing- 
ton, the  companion  of  his  elder  brother  Lawrence,  who  having 
contracted  consumption  had  come  here  in  the  hope  of  recover- 
ing his  health.  Dying  a  year  afterward,  Lawrence  bequeathed 
his  estate  of  IMount  Vernon  to  his  brother  George. 

Seven  days  later  Sandy  Hook  is  passed ;  the  Statue  of  Lib- 
erty, the  old  and  new  sky-scrapers  draw  near.  Every  one  is 
glad  to  return,  however  delightful  the  journey.     Some,  if  not 


HOME  359 

all,  of  the  passengers  will  in  future  have  a  littk-  broader  out- 
look; regarding  the  Other  Americans  with  somewhat  more  of 
respect;  well  knowing  now  that  there  are  agreeable  scenes  to 
be  revisited,  remote  regions  to  be  explored,  and  for  those  who 
have  money,  judgment,  tact,  and  energy,  wonderful  opportu- 
nities for  enterprise. 


CHAPTER  XXXIII 
SOUTH  AMERICAN  TRADE 

Altiiottgii  information  and  advice  in  regard  to  South 
American  trade  liave  been  liberally  proffered  in  many  books 
and  magazines,  and  in  various  addresses  to  commercial  bodies, 
a  few  additional  remarks  may  be  of  service.  It  is  evident 
from  many  tales  of  recent  happenings  that  for  the  benefit  of 
those  who  are  yet  in  dense  ignorance  of  South  America  and 
of  the  requirements  of  foreign  trade  suggestions  often  pre- 
viously urged  may  be  reiterated. 

Except  for  certain  facts  of  common  knowledge,  it  would  go 
without  saying  that  the  first  and  most  important  point  for  a 
manufacturer  to  consider  is  whether  or  not  he  really  cares  to 
cultivate  South  American  trade,  and  will  make  a  determined 
and  persistent  effort  to  secure  and  preserve  it.  Sporadic 
efforts  for  occasional  sales  not  only  are  of  slight  value  but 
are  injurious  to  manufacturers  who  would  build  up  a  perma- 
nent trade. 

Commercial  men  are  now  generally  aware  that  in  the 
regions  to  the  south  business  opportunities  are  large  and  are 
rapidly  increasing.  The  population  of  the  Latin  American 
Republics  is  above  seventy  millions,  and  their  commerce, 
amounting  in  1912  to  two  and  a  half  billion  dollars,  is  far 
greater  than  that  of  China  and  Japan  together.  In  fact  Ar- 
gentina alone  has  more  commerce  than  either  of  these  Asiatic 
countries,  and  Brazil  has  more  than  Japan.  Further,  the 
ratio  of  increase  on  our  South  American  continent  is  greater 
than  in  those  regions  of  Asia. 

"]\Iany  manufacturers  have  already  taken  advantage  of 
the  opportunity  presented  by  the  great  European  War  to 
seek  in  South  America  a  market  for  their  wares,  while  others 
including  some  of  our  leading  industries  had  established  a 
large  trade  before  this  period.     It  is  not  desirable,  however, 

360 


SOUTH  AMERICAN  TRADK  :U;i 

for  us  to  flatter  ourselves  tliat  South  Aiiifrii-aiis  in  g^cnt'i-al 
are  eager  to  trade  with  us  instead  of  with  Europe.  Naturally, 
while  they  cannot  elsewhere  procure  wliat  they  want,  they 
are  glad  to  have  us  supply  their  needs ;  hut  that  North  Ameri- 
cans as  a  class  are  really  popular  in  many  South  American 
countries  is  more  than  doubtful.  Latin  Amci-iean  courtesy 
is  proverbial,  but  politeness  does  not  always  mean  friend- 
ship. 

Latin  Americans  have  long  been  distrustful  and  suspicious 
of  our  nation  from  a  political  point  of  view.  The  issue  of 
our  troubles  with  .Mexico  will  either  allay  or  increase  those 
suspicions.  They  dislike  the  boorish  or  supercilious  manner 
of  some  of  our  half-educated  traveling,  railroad,  and  mining 
men,  although  Americans  of  bi'oader  intelligence  and  better 
manners  are  well  liked. 

Capital  from  any  quarter  is  welcomed  in  undeveloped 
countries  and  decidedly  better  bargains  will  not  be  despi.sed. 
But  we  should  l)ear  in  mind  that  (Ireat  P>ritain  has  already 
placed  two  billion  dollars  in  Argentina  alone,  and  that  the 
investment  of  a  few  millions  in  the  whole  of  South  America 
very  properly  will  not  outweigh  the  early  aid  received  from 
other  quarters,  by  means  of  which  the  various  Republics  have 
advanced  to  their  present  .status.  To  undertake  the  estab- 
lishing of  commercial  relations  with  the  idea  that  it  is  a  con- 
descension on  our  part  is  a  mi.stake  which  will  be  greatly  to 
our  disadvantage  in  the  futuic.  though  some  persons  are 
obliged  for  the  moment  to  accept  our  goods  and  pay  our 
prices  with  the  best  grace  they  may. 

A  friendly  Englishman  expres.sed  to  me  the  opinion  that 
after  the  close  of  the  war  the  Americans  would  lo.se  (>()  jier  cent 
of  their  present  trade  in  South  Amei-ica  on  account  of  their 
unwillingness  to  adapt  themselves  to  Latin  American  cus- 
toms, their  present  inditTerence  as  to  making  sales,  and  their 
assumption  of  su|)eri()rity.  In  contrast  to  this  opinion  an 
American  long  resident  in  the  .same  city,  while  acknowledg- 
ing the  truth  of  the  criticism,  thought  the  Aiiieiicans  would 
learn  faster  than  the  British  did,  and  that  the  r.illiuL'  olT  in 
trade  would  be  less. 

It  is  obvious  that  only  those  American  goods  which  are 
exclusive  or  which  nquire  no  tarilT  advantage  can  long  com- 


362  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

pete  successfully  on  even  terms  abroad  witli  European  wares, 
after  the  conclusion  of  the  war. 

An  important  and  primary  consideration  is  the  willingness 
and  ability  to  conform  to  South  American  custom  in  regard 
to  credit;  it  has  been  a  frcfjuent  custom  to  defer  payment  from 
tiiree  to  six  months  after  the  delivery  of  the  goods,  the  price 
being  fixed  accordingly  or  interest  being  added.  Such  credit, 
previously  granted  by  European  firms,  must  in  many  cases 
be  given  by  ours  in  order  to  gain  and  preserve  extensive  trade. 
In  some  quarters  an  idea  is  current  that  South  American 
credit  is  not  generally  good,  but  shippers  of  many  years' 
experience  assert  that  customers  there  are  as  reliable  and 
honest  as  those  in  Europe  or  the  Ujiited  States.  Further- 
more, certain  New  York  shii)pers  take  charge  of  and  guar- 
antee the  collections,  so  that  no  loss  is  possible.  Where 
results  have  been  unsatisfactory  it  has  often  been  due  to  the 
incompetence  or  dishonesty  of  the  agent  rather  than  to  the 
Latin  American  with  whom  he  dealt.  Naturally  suitable  pre- 
cautions should  be  taken  and  careful  scrutiny  exercised,  as 
not  every  one  is  honest  in  any  quarter  of  the  globe. 

The  investigation  of  credits  has  been  made  in  many  places 
by  R.  G.  Dun,  while  the  recent  establishing  of  American  Banks 
in  several  cities  and  the  probably  early  installation  of  others 
is  certain  to  be  of  great  assistance  in  this  regard.  It  was 
high  time  for  a  move  in  this  direction,  as  in  all  of  the  im- 
portant cities  of  South  America  there  have  long  been  one  or 
several  banks  of  the  various  nationalities :  British,  Spanish, 
Italian,  German,  French ;  which  have  greatly  promoted  the 
development  of  general  business,  besides  paying  handsome 
dividends  to  their  stockholders.  There  is  room  still  for  addi- 
tional banking  houses  with  large  capital,  either  branches  of 
our  great  institutions  or  independent  local  houses.  The 
Dollar  Exchange,  which  is  now  so  much  discussed,  might  be 
somewhat  facilitated  if  all  Americans  in  the  other  Republics 
would  say  dollars  when  they  mean  dollars,  and  otherwise 
pesos,  soles,  or  milreis. 

Much  has  been  said  about  American  Steamship  Lines  as 
an  encouragement  to  our  commerce.  The  fact  that  one  week 
of  war  did  more  to  convince  our  people  of  the  necessity  of 
these  than  the  preaching  of  experts  for  many  years  is  not 


SOUTH  AMERICAN  TRADE  3G3 

especially  creditable  lo  those  who,  inipiTvious  to  reason,  must 
be  convinced  by  a  knockdown  blow.  The  suspension  of  plans 
for  improved  service  by  foreign  steamsliij)  lini's  and  the  dis- 
continuance or  impairment  of  service  previously  existing 
have  caused  much  hardship  to  Latin  America  and  have 
greatly  hindered  the  development  of  our  trade.  Happily 
present  plans  insure  a  biweekly  American  line  from  New 
York  down  the  West  Coast  bcfoi-c  long,  with  the  possibility 
of  anotiiei'.  ]More  frecpient  service  for  the  East  Coast  it  is 
hoped  will  follow.  Better  accommochitions  an<l  more  rapid 
service  will  surely  promote  ph-asurc  travel,  as  the  steamers 
on  the  "West  Coast,  though  fairly  comfortable,  are  not  invit- 
ing to  those  who  wish  to  travel  only  under  conditions  of 
luxury.  A  considerable  number  of  freight  steauHMs  ;ii-e  al- 
ready plying  on  each  side. 

With  favorable  consideration  in  regard  to  embarking  on 
foreign  trade,  or  even  as  a  preliminaiy,  some  ()r<linary  geo- 
graphical knowledge  and  a  slight  ac(|uaintance  with  local 
conditions,  easily  procured,  is  highly  desirable.  It  is  not  a 
prepossessing  introduction  for  a  gentleman  to  receive  a  letter 
dii-ected  '' I'uoios  Aires,  Hra/.il  or  Chile.''  as  often  haj)pens. 
this  being  one  degree  worse  than  if  Brazil  or  Cliih'  were  used 
alone.  The  former  address  betrays  not  merely  ignorance  but 
the  nuin's  indifference  to  his  display  of  it.  A  gentleman 
who  recently  received  a  letter  directed  to  Concepcinn,  Chih'. 
I'hiiippines,  recpiested  me  to  urge  Americans  to  stu<ly  geog- 
laphy.  The  conunon  i)racticc  of  mailing  h-tters  with  insutli- 
cient  postage,  much  more  annoying,  and  dhsolutclif  inrx- 
ciisdhlf,  still  continues. 

i\lany  of  our  lai'gest   industries  and  some  sin.iller  ones  al 
I'cady   have    an    exceUent    ti'a(h'    with    South    Aitieriea.      Ten 
\ears  ago  one  met   tVw  Americans  in  tliese  countries.     .\ow  it 
may  be  said  that  "llie  woods  ar<'  full  of  them." 

As  from  six  weeks  to  three  months  will  pass  before  an 
answer  may  be  received  to  one's  letter  addressed  to  the  Inited 
States  Consul  resident  in  the  various  countries,  it  is  tlie  more 
important  to  learn  as  much  as  possible  at  iiome  of  the  char- 
acter of  the  dilVerent  localities,  the  variety  of  climate  and 
productions,  the  condition  of  the  people  and  their  re<|uire- 
ments;  some  of  whidi   inforiiiatioii  may  be  fouml   in  the  valu- 


364  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

able  monthly  Bulletin  of  the  Pan  American  Union,  in  The 
South  American,  and  other  periodicals,  and  in  the  multitude 
of  books  recently  written  on  the  various  countries. 

With  even  the  slightest  knowledge  one  might  avoid  the 
absurdity  of  sending  lawn  mowers  to  Iquique,  a  barren  desert 
where  for  the  few  and  expensive  plots  of  grass  not  only  the 
water  but  the  soil  is  imported  ;  or  rubber  boots  to  Lima,  where 
only  a  slight  drizzle  is  ever  experienced  and  small  probability 
exists  of  need  in  the  back  country ;  or  old-fashioned  chande- 
liers on  a  three-foot  stem  to  places  where  electricity  is  em- 
ployed or  where  the  ceilings  are  15  feet  high.  If  ordinary 
pi-ecautions  had  not  been  ignored,  it  would  seem  foolish  to 
say  that  before  shipping  goods  one  should  ascertain  whether 
such  articles  are  wanted  in  that  locality. 

It  is  well  to  note  that  except  in  the  case  of  some  novelty, 
the  people  know  what  they  want  and  insist  upon  having  it. 
They  will  not  take  what  ive  think  they  ought  to  want  or  what 
is  convenient  for  us  to  send.  Many  of  the  Latin  Americans 
are  quite  as  fashionable  and  up-to-date  as  we  are ;  the  Indians, 
on  the  contrary,  want  the  same  thing  year  after  year  and  for 
centuries.  If  their  trade  is  desired  their  taste  must  be  catered 
to,  as  others  are  glad  to  supply  what  they  want  if  we  do  not. 

Permanent  commercial  interests  alone  should  be  sought. 
Great  injury  has  been  inflicted  upon  the  reputation  of  our 
merchants  by  the  unjustifiable  conduct  of  manufacturers,  who 
in  dull  times  have  sent  men  abroad  to  take  orders ;  then,  busi- 
ness at  home  reviving  and  rush  orders  being  received,  they 
have  turned  back  to  their  old  customers,  ignoring  the  new 
and  leaving  tJicir  orders  unfilled,  careless  of  their  embarra.ss- 
ment  and  inability  to  supply  their  needs  from  any  local  mar- 
ket. Also  some  persons  have  sacrificed  the  prospect  of  per- 
manent trade  with  South  America  for  larger  temporary 
profits  from  war  orders. 

Extraordinary  changeahlencss  has  sometimes  been  mani- 
fested with  even  less  excuse.  An  American  in  Bolivia  engaged 
in  a  large  business  with  Indians,  after  much  urging  and  time 
spent,  was  persuaded  by  a  traveling  man  from  New  Orleans  to 
give  him  an  order  for  a  thousand  dollars'  worth  of  goods  to  be 
delivered  within  six  months.  About  the  time  they  were  ex- 
pected, the  American  received  a  letter  saying  that  the  firm 
had  concluded  not  to  fill  any  orders  to  Bolivia ! 


SOUTH  AMERICAN  TRADE  365 

A  difficulty  frequently  experienced  where  cash  sales  liavc 
been  made,  and  an  excessive  annoyance  to  the  purchaser,  is 
that  a  draft  sent  at  the  same  time  with  the  goods  if  not  earlier 
reaches  the  consignee  a  week,  a  month,  or  more  before  the 
arrival  of  the  merchandise.  A  month's  interest  is  lost  by  the 
purchaser,  with  the  goods  not  in  hand.  When  they  do  arrive 
they  are  often  not  as  ordered,  deficient  in  quantity  and  (|ual- 
ity,  and  naturally  that  is  the  end.  It  sliouhl  be  superfluous  to 
say  that  merchandise  should  be  up  to  the  qudJitjj  of  the  sample, 
but  not  so.  Such  methods  will  not  long  work  abroad  when 
competition  is  free. 

Further,  the  goods  must  be  precisely  like  the  sample,  not 
even  something  better.  j\Ien  who  order  two-wheeled  vehicles 
do  not  want  four-wheeled.  The  latter  in  some  sections  are 
impossible.  The  assumi)tion  that  people  do  not  know  what 
they  want,  or  the  carelessness  which  permits  of  gross  mis- 
takes in  shipping  goods  thousands  of  miles  is  evidence  of 
crude  business  ideas  and  methods.  In  general  a  slight  ditTer- 
ence  in  price  is  not  so  keenly  regarded  as  the  quality  of  the 
goods  and  the  steadiness  of  price. 

Careful  packing  of  goods,  a  matter  of  the  greatest  impor- 
tance, has  for  years  been  continually  urged.  It  has  been  true 
that  packages  from  1h(>  Cnited  States  on  the  dcx-k  in  South 
American  ports  could  be  picked  out  on  account  of  tiieir  dis- 
reputable appearance.  A  United  States  official,  writing  for 
goods  to  his  New  York  di'uggist,  charged  him  particularly 
about  the  packing.  The  bottles  ari'iving  in  a  pasteboard  box 
were  broken.  Again  he  tried  with  definite  instructions  and 
the  same  result.  The  next  order  went  to  England,  where  it 
was  properly  filled. 

The  persistence  in  ignoring  c.rprrt  ndvicr  is  extraordinary. 
Agents  in  Soutli  America  olten  send  explicit  directions  as  to 
packing,  the  size  and  weight  of  boxes,  etc.,  without  the  sligiit 
est  effect.  Goods  are  dispatched  in  a  500  or  1000  lb.  box 
to  a  region  where  they  must  be  transported  on  the  back  of 
llamas,  whose  load  is  100  lbs.  Tlie  box  is  left  on  tlie  liock  or 
at  the  railway  station;  the  goods  are  never  used. 

New  York  shippers  report  that  much  freight  re.iches  tlicni 
in  a  condition  impossibh-  to  einbaik  on  the  long  journey.  It 
must  be  refused  oi-  repacked.  These  are  ciirious  eonuneii- 
taries  on  the  supposedly  sujicrior  bnsiness  ri'iility  of   .\mcr- 


366  TlIK  SOUTFI  AMERICAN  TOUR 

ieaiis.  The  splendidly  hound  boxes  and  bales  of  British  goods 
are  in  striking  contrast. 

On  the  East  Coast  transportation  by  water  and  rail  is  gen- 
eral, though  not  complete.  On  the  West,  Chile  is  well  served 
with  railroads,  Bolivia's  are  rai)idly  developing,  but  an  enor- 
mous region  remains,  especially  in  Bolivia,  Peru,  and  Ecuador, 
where  transportation  by  mules,  burros,  llamas,  and  Indians 
will  long  continue  to  be  the  only  methods. 

A  material  factor  in  securing  South  American  trade  where 
agents  are  employed  is  the  sending  of  suitable  and  competent 
men.  One  of  our  largest  houses,  noted  for  the  rather  su- 
perior quality  of  its  salesmen,  admitted  that  they  had  by 
experience  discovered  that  some  who  were  very  good  salesmen 
here  did  not  succeed  there.  Precisely  why  Americans  should 
be  so  reluctant  to  follow  advice  from  experts  on  subjects  of 
which  they  are  ignorant  is  a  puzzle;  but  it  is  a  fact  that  the 
preaching  of  many  men  for  many  years  seems  largely  to  have 
fallen  on  deaf  ears.  We  should  comprehend  that  South 
Americans  are  not  ignorant  barbarians,  that  many  of  them 
have  more  culture,  often  more  education,  than  our  average 
business  men,  that  their  manners  are  generally  better,  and 
that  if  we  desire  their  business  we  must  adapt  ourselves  in 
some  degree  and  treat  them  with  courtesy  and  not  arrogance. 
To  speak  of  them  as  monkeys,  savages,  and  dagoes,  even  so  as 
to  be  overheard,  to  commit  other  acts  of  unpardonable  rude- 
ness in  churches  and  elsewhere,  boorishly  to  inform  them  that 
they  are  half  a  century  behind  the  times,  are  acts  w-hich  might 
seem  incredible  but  are  by  no  means  rare.  A  man  who  is  thor- 
oughly convinced  of  his  own  superiority  and  who  regards  the 
courteous  amenities  of  life  practiced  by  Latin  Americans  as 
silly  and  time  w^asting.  as  an  evidence  of  insincerity  and  of  a 
lack  of  practical  common  sense,  who  fancies  himself  above 
the  conventions  of  dress  and  manners  as  practiced  in  the  cities 
visited,  and  as  they  are  in  Europe,  who  would  rush  and  push 
his  w^ares  is  likely  to  make  an  unfavorable  impression  and  to 
learn  that  more  haste  is  less  speed. 

It  should  be  obvious  that  to  accomplish  much  a  man  must 
speak  the  languages  of  the  countries  visited.  What  success 
would  a  man  speaking  no  English  have  in  the  United  States? 
Spanish  is  current  in  all  the  Republics  save  Brazil ;  there  it 


SOUTH  AMKIUCAX  TRADE  :{(i7 

is  understood  by  all  persons  of  education,  and  nniy  do  fairly 
in  the  large  cities;  but  for  an  extended  tour  or  a  long  stay  in 
Brazil  a  knowledge  of  Portuguese  is  essential. 

Tivo  extremes  ai'e  uoti<'ed  by  the  observant  traveler  in  South 
America,  each  of  which  iii)pears  objectionable.  Some  Amer- 
ican goods  are  sohl  at  one-lialf  or  ()ne-(|uai-ler  of  the  home 
price;  which  might  cause  the  disinterested  layman  to  conchide 
that  our  tariff  needed  revising;  other  articles  are  sold  at  dou- 
ble or  triple  the  price  at  home  (not  always  the  fault  of  the 
duty),  a  practice  in  the  long  run  likely  to  i)rove  unprofitable. 
Thus  a  popular  sewing  machine  was  bought  a  few  years  ago  in 
Are<iuii)a  at  one-fourth  the  price  in  Boston.  AVhite  ])aper 
made  in  the  United  States  was  cheaper  in  Chile  than  in  Chi- 
cago. On  the  other  hand,  in  La  Paz.  shoes  wortli  $2.50  cost 
$5.50  to  $6.00,  kerosene  oil  .sold  at  about  $5.00  for  a  case  of  10 
gallons,  a  can  of  corned  beef  costs  SO  cents;  and  ham,  <iO  to  SO 
cents  a  lb.  The  last,  put  up  by  a  Chicago  packer,  could  be  pur- 
chased more  cheaply  at  retail  from  an  English  firm,  having 
come  by  way  of  Tjondon,  than  at  wholesale  from  the  Ciucago 
agent  on  the  ground  ;  and  the  home  ofifice  would  not  take  a 
direct  order.  Whether  the  price  was  according  to  the  plans 
of  the  home  ofifice,  or  the  idiosyncrasy  of  the  agent  anxious  to 
nmke  his  fortune  in  a  hurry,  is  unknown.  That  some  agents 
are  arbitrary  in  their  ch.irges  might  l)e  judged  from  the  fact 
that  boots  sold  at  ]\lollendo  for  $5.00  a  ]);iir  wi're  j)i-iced  in 
La  Paz  at  $14.00. 

The  sharp  practice  of  some  salesmen  is  giciitly  to  the  dis- 
advantage of  others.  The  man  who  sold  a  snow-plow  to  some 
one  on  the  coast  lands  of  Peru  on  the  plea  that  the  elimate 
would  change  on  the  completion  of  the  canal  no  tloubt  i)rides 
himself  on  his  smartness,  indifferent  to  the  fact  that  he  has 
done  nuich  to  discredit  Americans  in  all  that  region.  M.-iny 
seem  to  think  that  j)atriotism  consists  simply  in  "blowini.'" 
about  their  country;  that  they  might  do  it  a  better  service  by 
honorable   conduct   and   courteous   demeanor   does   not    oivur 

to  tlieill. 

I  have  heai'd  that  in  many  i)laces  on  the  plateau,  as  prub- 
ably  in  \W.  intei'ior,  it  is  customary  to  cliaige  the  poor  Indians 
who  earn  but  50  or  75  cents  a  day  double  the  already  higli 
price   which    a    white   man    is   asked    for   the   same   artji-le.   a 


368  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

sample  no  doubt  of  the  justice  and  fair  dealing  for  which  we 
are  told  that  men  are  distinguished,  but  in  which  women  are 
said  to  be  lacking. 

Ten  dollars  a  day  has  been  allowed  ;is  a  suitable  sum  for 
traveling  expenses,  and  one  following  the  railroads  and  not 
being  burdened  with  heavy  samples  might  find  this  sufficient. 
In  the  interior  where  many  pack  animals  must  be  employed, 
or  with  a  large  svipply  of  baggage  to  go  by  rail,  and  in  Brazil 
and  Argentina  where  heavy  license  fees  must  be  paid,  the 
fifteen  dollars  a  day  asserted  by  a  recent  traveler  to  be  neces- 
sary may  be  desirable.  It  depends,  too,  a  good  deal  upon  the 
skill  and  character  of  the  man. 

The  tax  on  commercial  travelers  who  sell  goods  or  w'ho 
merely  exhibit  samples  and  take  orders  is  an  item  to  be  con- 
sidered in  connection  with  other  expenses.  In  some  countries 
a  separate  license  must  be  obtained  for  each  Province  or  De- 
partment, corresponding  to  our  States ;  in  others  for  each 
Municipality.  A  few  countries,  more  liberal,  exact  no  fee 
whatever. 

Beginning  with  Ecuador,  $50  is  here  charged  for  one  visit. 

In  Peru  no  license  is  required  for  commercial  travelers, 
but  there  are  certain  regulations  as  to  samples.  If  they  are 
such  as  would  enter  free  of  duty  no  charge  is  made.  If  the 
articles  are  dutiable,  one  of  each  kind  and  variety  is  permitted 
free  entry,  providing  the  importer  presents  in  duplicate  an 
itemized  description  of  packages  and  articles,  pays  the  duty 
in  cash  or  with  bank  draft,  and  Avithin  three  months  exports 
these  samples,  thereupon  receiving  back  the  cash  or  bank  draft 
which  he  has  deposited.  Should  there  be  any  deficiency  or 
substitution  of  articles,  double  duty  will  be  exacted  and  the 
article  substituted  will  be  confiscated. 

If  samples  enter  Peru  by  Mollendo  to  go  to  Bolivia,  not  to 
return  by  the  same  route,  they  are  dutiable,  unless  the 
Peruvian  Consul  in  La  Paz  sends  a  certificate  that  the  samples 
have  entered  Bolivia.  The  duty  previously  paid  is  then 
refunded.  A  fee  of  $12.50,  U.  S.  gold,  is  charged  by  the  city 
of  Arequipa  as  a  license  in  that  particular  section. 

Bolivia  is  a  more  expensive  country  to  visit  and  for  that 
reason  is  omitted  from  the  itinerary  of  many  travelers.  The 
policy  of  the  Government  seems  particularly  injudicious  in 


SOUTH  AMERICAN  TRADE  369 

vievV'  of  the  fact  that  their  country  is  out  of  the  way,  that  it 
has  no  great  cities,  and  that  hirge  sales  are  re(|uired  to  cover 
the  additional  time  and  cost  of  the  journey  even  without  the 
considerable  fee  exacted. 

Further,  each  municipality  eollfcts  a  fee  for  itself;  there 
is  no  general  tax.  The  fee  varies  at'cording  to  the  class  of 
goods  but  in  general  for  La  Paz,  the  chief  city  (pop.  80,()()()), 
is  300  hoi  or  $116.70  U.  S.  gold;  never  more.  The  author- 
ities of  Cochabamba  are  said  to  charge  1000  boJ.  for  the  priv- 
ilege of  selling  in  their  pretty  city,  while  Oruro  demands  l)ut 
100  hoi.  As  to  other  cities  inquiry  must  be  made  in  the 
country.  There  is  talk  of  reducing  the  Cochabamba  fee  and 
perhaps  the  Bolivian  Government  will  soon  realize  that  the 
country  will  do  better  to  adopt  the  more  lil)eral  policy  of  her 
neighbors,  Peru  and  Chile.  It  should  be  added  that  if  two 
persons  go  together  as  representatives  of  the  same  house  each 
one  is  obliged  to  pay  the  tax. 

Chile,  like  Peru,  is  extremely  favorable  to  the  commercial 
traveler,  re(iuiring  no  pei-inits  and  no  duty  on  samples  which 
have  no  value.  Six  months  arc  allowed  in  which  to  rcship 
samples  free  of  duty. 

The  sections  of  the  East  Coast  are  niucli  more  exacting. 

Argentina,  noted  for  high  prices  generally,  also  has  large 
license  fees;  these  not  for  the  country  as  a  whole,  but  for  each 
individual  State  or  Province.  A  license  covering  the  Federal 
Capital,  liuenos  Aires,  costs  500  Arg.  pesos,  paper,  .t212.;}0  IJ. 
S.  gold,  and  is  good  for  one  year.  P]ach  State  has  its  own  ad- 
ditional eliarge,  inainly  good  for  a  whole  year,  though  a  few 
have  half  rates  for  six  months  and  one  or  two,  monthly 
licenses.  These  permit  either  selling  goods,  or  showing  sam- 
ples and  taking  orders. 

Not  to  enumerate  all  of  the  various  districts  it  may  be  said 
that  the  fees  vary  from  nothing  in  Xeu<|Uen  to  \GSO  pisos, 
about  $700  V.  S.  gold,  in  Salta ;  all  of  the  remaining  fet's  ex- 
cept those  of  Tucuman,  Entre  Hios,  and  Mendoza.  whicii  are 
GOO  i)(s<)s  ($2;");")),  being  less  tlian  that  of  Santa  Fe,  which  is 
400  pesos,  about  $170,  j)er  annum.  Samples  of  no  value  pay 
no  duty;  on  others  the  duty  which  is  i)aid  is  refunded  if  the 
samples  are  exported  within  six  mouths.     In  some  places  a 


370  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

difi'ereuce  is  made  iu  the  license  fee  if  but  one  line  of  samples 
is  offered. 

In  Paraguay  license  fees  are  charged  in  each  of  the  five 
chief  cities,  varying,  according  to  tlie  importance  of  the  firm 
represented,  from  $84  gold  to  $385.  At  other  points,  the 
license  is  one-third  the  amount  in  these  cities.  An  advisory 
board  of  merchants  fixes  the  class  to  which  each  traveler 
belongs,  five  classes  altogether.  No  extra  charge  for  repre- 
senting more  than  one  firm.  No  distinction  for  selling  with- 
out samples.  No  tax  for  samples  if  taken  out  within  six 
months. 

Uruguay  is  said  to  charge  100  pesos  or  $103.42  U.  S.  gold, 
for  the  calendar  year,  the  license  expiring  December  31.  Ap- 
plication to  the  Chief  of  Police  of  Montevideo  on  paper  with 
a  50  cent  stamp  being  made,  the  certificate  issued  must  be 
presented  to  the  Director-General  of  Indirect  Taxes  to  obtain 
the  required  license.  Samples  entered  under  bond  are  not 
subject  to  duty.  According  to  the  Consul  General  of  Uru- 
guay a  license  for  the  city  of  i\Iontevideo  only,  all  that  most 
persons  care  for,  is  issued  for  ten  pesos,  $10.35. 

Brazil  requires  no  federal  tax  of  commercial  travelers  but 
the  States  and  cities  more  than  make  up  this  deficienc3^  As  a 
milreis  is  practically  33  cents,  or  three  milreis  about  one  dol- 
lar, only  one  figure  need  be  given. 

Para  charges  300$  (i  e.,  milreis)  as  a  State  tax  per  annum, 
and  365$  for  the  city  on  each  visit.  If  goods  are  actually 
sold,  trader's  or  hawker's  license  is  also  required. 

In  Pernambuco  there  is  no  State  tax,  and  but  53$»for  the 
city  of  Fortaleza  in  Ceara. 

Bahia  charges  100$  for  a  yearly  license,  but  it  must  be 
renewed  if  one  leaves  the  country  and  returns. 

No  license  is  required  in  Rio  unless  goods  are  sold,  when  a 
trader's  license  is  necessary. 

Sao  Paulo  State  has  no  tax  but  the  city  has  a  fee  of  1000$ 
and  the  city  of  Santos  500$. 

The  State  of  Rio  Grande  do  Sul  has  a  tax  of  150$  for  sell- 
ing in  cities,  100$  for  towns,  80$  for  other  places.  The  cities 
of  Porto  Alegre,  Pelotas,  and  Sjio  Gabriel  exact  each  a  license 
fee  of  200$,  Uruguayana  300$,  Bage  800$,  Sao  Borga  60$. 

A  power  of  attorney  is  generally  necessary  if  agents  are 


SOUTH  AMERICAN  TRADE  Ml 

to  receive  mone}',  this  to  be  liled  witli  a  notary  puMi.-  wh.i 
supplies  copies  in  Portuguese  on  request. 

Samples  of  no  value  pay  no  duty,  but  if  worth  mure  than 
one  milreis  duty  is  levied.  The  amount  is  deposited  in  the 
Custom  House  and  if  the  goods  are  cheeked  and  sent  out  from 
the  same  port  the  duty  will  be  returned. 

The  Central  Railway  has  a  mileage  book  and  the  Leopoldiua 
Railway  gives  a  discount  of  20  per  cent  on  saiiijiles  ami  on 
fares  of  travelers. 

Information  on  various  matters  may  be  found  in  the  latest 
p]xporters'  Encyelopa'dia ;  and  is  furnished  to  members  l)y 
the  All  Americas  Association,  the  National  Association  ot 
^Manufacturers,  and  the  American  Manufacturers  Export 
Association. 

As  to  the  resources  of  the  South  American  countries  and  the 
variety  of  goods  which  may  be  exported  thither  to  advantage. 
tliese  tilings  are  set  forth  in  detail  in  many  books,  in  eonsular 
reports,  and  in  back  numbers  of  the  Pan  American  liulh'tin, 
to  be  found  in  our  large  libraries.  I  have  here  space  for  a 
few  remarks  only.  Since  the  continent  as  a  whole  is  still 
thinly  settled  and  largely  undevelojx'd,  its  productions  and 
exports  are  chiefly  mineral  and  agricultural,  its  im])orts  manu- 
factured goods,  as  is  the  ease  generally  with  young  countries. 
Conditions  in  some  respects  resemble  those  in  the  United 
States  half  a  century  ago.  Everywhere  railways  are  being 
hiid,  and  bridges  built;  towns  are  needing  sewers,  electi-ic 
lights,  street  cars,  and  all  modei-n  improveim-nts.  The  great 
cities  are  for  the  most  part  supplied  with  these,  but  many 
smaller  ones  are  thinking  a])out  them  or  have  merely  made 
a  leginiiing. 

Matei'ial  and  e(|uipment  for  the  biiihjiiig  and  operation  of 
i-aiiroads  are  needed  in  every  country,  bridge  building  ma- 
terial as  well.  Our  steel  men.  our  locomotive  and  car  builders 
liave  been  wide  awake  to  such  matters  and  are  doing  excellent 
business  in  some  of  the  countries.  Where,  as  in  Argentina, 
most  of  the  railways  are  financed  with  Uritish  capital,  .\iiicr- 
ieans  have  less  chance  in  proportion  than  in  tlio.se  countries 
where  American  capital  is  considerably  employed,  as  in 
I'jcuador.  Peru,  and  l'>olivia. 

Agricultural  macliinerv  of  almost  every  kind  and  ai:ricul- 


372  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

tural  tools  are  in  great  demand  on  the  East  Coast,  on  the 
vast  estates  of  Argentina,  to  some  extent  in  Uruguay  and 
Brazil.  They  have  a  smaller  sale  on  the  West  Coast,  where 
mining  raaehinery  is  one  of  the  prime  necessities.  Electrical 
apparatus  of  all  kinds  is  everywhere  needed  and  is  largely 
supplied  by  the  General  Electric  and  other  companies. 

Although  most  of  the  countries  have  coal,  the  mines  are 
not  greatly  developed  except  in  Chile;  hence  much  is  im- 
ported ;  a  good  deal  of  lumber  also,  in  spite  of  immense  forests, 
as  yet  unavailable  save  in  a  few  localities. 

In  all  of  the  countries  the  chief  import  is  textiles,  princi- 
pally from  Europe,  though  the  United  States  furnishes  a  good 
deal  of  the  coarse  grades  of  cotton,  canvas,  etc.  Industrial 
machinery,  automobiles  and  other  vehicles,  utensils,  hardware, 
corrugated  iron,  sewing  machines,  paper  of  various  kinds, 
motors,  scales  and  balances,  surgical  and  mathematical  instru- 
ments, pianos  and  piano  players,  petroleum,  gasoline,  etc., 
lubricating  oils,  typewriting  machines ;  canned  goods,  par- 
ticularly on  the  West  Coast,  including  milk,  meat,  and  salmon, 
especially  for  miners,  also  used  in  the  rubber  country ;  leather 
goods,  boots  and  shoes,  watches,  soap,  druggists'  supplies  and 
medicines,  lard,  twine,  motors,  dynamite,  arms  and  ammuni- 
tion, fence  wire,  pumps,  pipings  and  fittings,  tin  plate,  glass, 
porcelain,  watches,  phonographs,  photographic  material,  and 
all  kinds  of  novelties  and  general  merchandise  are  among  the 
articles  imported ;  a  few  animals,  chiefly  blooded  stock  from 
Europe. 

Should  one  desire  to  engage  in  business  for  himself  in  any 
of  the  Republics,  there  are  good  openings  for  persons  with 
capital  who  speak  the  language.  Persons  without  money  are 
warned  by  our  consuls  not  to  go,  unless  they  have  a  definite 
engagement  or  are  specialists  in  certain  lines  where  experts 
are  pretty  sure  to  be  desired. 

It  is  unwise  to  trust  implicitly  the  stories  about  wonderful 
mines,  though  these  doubtless  exist.  If  genuine,  they  are 
often  impossible  to  exploit  without  an  enormous  outlay  of 
capital  as  was  the  case  with  the  Cerro  de  Pasco  mines ;  more- 
over, as  thousands  if  not  millions  of  people  have  been  deceived 
about  mines  in  the  United  States  and  in  regard  to  many  other 
money  making  schemes,  it  is  still  more  foolish  to  give  credence 


SOUTH  AMERICAN  TRADE  373 

to  tales  promising  untold  wealth  in  those  distant  countries. 
With  the  ])est  of  intentions  the  enthusiast  is  liahle  to  be  mis- 
taken and  deliberate  fraud  is  common ;  therefore,  caution  is 
ever  needed.  Yet  with  careful  investigation  opportunities  in 
almost  any  line  nuiy  be  found  in  some  one  of  these  rapidly 
developing  countries,  superior  to  those  afforded  in  more 
thickly  settled  regions  of  the  earth. 

Concerning  the  Countries  Individually. 

Ecuador.  In  Ecuador,  it  may  be  noted,  the  United  States 
stands  second  among  importing  nations.  As  a  place  for  in- 
vestment, enterprise,  and  residence,  it  has  advantages  and 
disadvantages.  The  coast  region,  on  account  of  excessive 
rainfall,  Inimidity,  and  heat,  has  a  less  agreeable  and  healthful 
climate  than  the  rainless  Peruvian  shores  with  their  moderate 
temperature;  malaria  and  yellow  fever  being  endemic  in 
Guayaquil,  though  probably  not  everywhere  on  the  coast. 

The  sierra  and  monlana  regions  of  the  two  countries  are 
quite  similar,  the  high  valley's  of  the  sierra  district  enjoying 
a  healthful  and  delightful  climate.  The  natural  resources 
resemble  those  of  Peru,  although  the  chief  exports  are  dissim- 
ilar. Ecuador's  cocoa  plantations  are  her  largest  source  of 
wealth  and  supply  her  principal  export.  Vegetable  ivory, 
fruit  of  the  tagua  palm,  is  another  important  article  of  pro- 
duction, most  useful  in  making  buttons.  The  manufacture  of 
Panama  hats  is  an  industry  long  flourishing.  Some  coffee  and 
rubber  are  exported,  also  hides;  and  sugar  cane  is  raised. 
Rich  mineral  resources  are  undoubted ;  gold,  mercury,  copper, 
iron,  coal,  lead,  platinum,  and  silver ;  these  still  undeveloped ; 
petroleum  and  sulphur  are  found.  ]\Iany  manufacturing  in- 
dustries are  carried  on  in  a  small  way,  but  such  goods  are 
mainly  imported:  textiles,  food  slulVs,  clothing,  drugs,  boots 
and  shoes,  paper,  leather,  crockery,  vehicles,  etc.,  are  some  of 
the  importations,  with  material  for  railroad  building  and  roll- 
ing stock.  As  the  d<'velopment  of  tlie  country  is  regarded  as 
twenty-five  years  behind  tliat  of  Peru,  it  would  natui-ally 
ail'ord  better  opportunities  in  some  directions  and  poorer  in 
others.     Railroads  are  planned  in  several  directions. 

Peru.  The  Republic  of  Peru  ])rcsenls  proliably  the  great- 
est variety  of  climate,  soil,  and  productions,  to  be  found  in 


374  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

any  ])ortion  of  the  globe.  Along  its  1200  miles  of  coast  may 
be  raised  in  the  irrigated  valleys  nearly  all  troi)ifal  and  tem- 
perate products.  In  the  sierras  will  be  found  practically  every 
variety  of  mineral,  and  in  one  place  or  another  climates  to 
suit  every  taste.  Whatever  one  may  desire  is  therefore  to  be 
procured  within  its  borders,  although  not  all  points  are 
equally  accessible. 

The  coast  lands  present  unique  advantages  for  agriculture, 
in  that  the  climate  may  be  depended  upon ;  there  is  no  fear 
of  drought,  of  sudden  storms,  or  of  frost,  and  though  within 
the  tropics  there  is  no  excess  of  heat. 

Of  50,000,000  acres  capable  of  irrigation  in  this  section  but 
2,000,000  now  have  the  facilities,  and  of  these  not  all  are  em- 
ployed; hence  there  is  ample  room.  The  difficulty  is  lack  of 
capital  and  sometimes  of  labor. 

The  chief  export  of  Peru  is  sugar;  and  if  our  Louisiana 
planters  on  account  of  tariff  reduction  feel  like  making  a 
change,  they  wdll  find  in  Peru  an  ample  field  where  four  tons 
to  the  acre  are  produced  and  a  price  of  114  cts.  a  lb.  will 
bring  a  profit. 

Cotton  plantations  offer  excellent  opportunities;  the  best 
qualities  grow  well,  Sea  Island,  Upland,  etc. ;  also  the  native 
Peruvian  which  brings  the  highest  price  of  all,  being  hardly 
distinguishable  from  wool.  Yet,  as  it  takes  several  years  to 
come  into  bearing  (it  lives  10  or  15  years),  the  Upland  which 
bears  in  six  months  is  preferred  by  many.  In  southern  Peru 
vineyards  and  orchards  are  a  specialty,  fruits  most  delicious, 
figs,  melons,  grapes,  chirimoias,  olives,  and  paltas,  with  vege- 
tables, and  with  alfalfa,  wheat,  and  maize.  Tobacco  is  raised 
in  various  sections  and  coffee  in  many,  none  finer  in  the 
world. 

The  sierra  country  is  full  of  minerals:  gold,  silver,  lead, 
copper,  quicksilver,  tungsten,  cinnabar,  vanadium,  anything 
you  can  mention.  Every  kind  of  coal  is  found,  though  as  j-et 
the  mines  are  mostly  undeveloped  for  lack  of  transportation 
facilities;  oil  of  fine  quality  exists  along  the  coast  in  Tumbes, 
in  Pnno  near  Lake  Titicaca,  and  in  other  sections ;  borax  in  the 
Arequipa  district ;  iron  in  many  quarters ;  peat  in  Junin.  On 
the  plateau,  besides  minerals  galore,  are  excellent  cattle  lands; 
many  sheep  are  raised,  Scotch  shepherds  and  collies  here  look- 


SOUTH  AMERICAN  TRADE  375 

ing  after  them ;  the  native  breed  is  crossed  with  imported  me- 
rinos, making  good  stock,  furnishintr  5  to  8  ll)s.  of  wool  pi-r 
head.  Alpacas  every  two  years  yield  from  6  to  9  lbs.  of  bet- 
ter wool,  while  the  vicuna  furnishes  a  smaller  supply  of  still 
finer  grade. 

The  east  side  of  the  mountains  is  rather  difficult  of  access, 
but  not  too  far  down,  alK'ords  a  delightful  climate;  a  colony 
willing  to  work  would  Hud  pleasant  homes  in  various  localities. 
In  valleys  near  Cuzco.is  the  finest  of  cocoa,  in  the  Chaneha- 
niayo  or  Perene  Valley  back  of  Lima  and  Oroya  are  millions 
of  coffee  trees,  lower  down  is  plenty  of  rul)bcr.  Some  is  ex- 
ported by  way  of  ^Mollendo  from  the  Inambari,  Timbopata 
districts,  more  by  Iquitos  and  Para  from  the  Ucayali,  the 
Putomayo,  and  other  sections.  While  men  frequently  say 
that  they  do  not  go  to  such  countries  for  their  health,  it  is 
indeed  a  pity  that  some  seem  to  forget  that  they  are  human 
beings  and  treat  the  inoffensive  natives  in  a  manner  far  worse 
than  savages.  In  these  regions  the  heat  and  humidity  are 
unpleasant  and  in  limited  sections  unhealthy,  though  the 
dangers  are  by  some  over-estimated,  ^lany  papers  and  maga- 
zines publish  sensational  stories  of  adventure,  often  knowing 
them  to  be  exaggerated ;  all  books  do  not  justly  represent  con- 
ditions. ]\rany  stories  of  hardship,  when  true,  are  merely 
evidence  of  ignorance  and  bad  judgment,  utterly  foolish  con- 
duct quite  inexcusa])le,  in  sections  where  otlu-rs  have  experi- 
enced not  the  slightest  difficulty. 

Persons  with  moderate  capital  not  interested  in  mining  or 
agriculture  might  find  it  profitable  to  undertake  numufactur- 
ing  in  certain  lines.  There  are  now  in  the  country  a  few 
factories  for  cotton,  woolen,  biscuit  making,  chocolate,  fi-uit 
preserves,  cocaine,  and  matches;  also  flour  mills. 

There  is  opportunity  for  electrical  power  in  many  ])l;ices, 
for  installing  electric  lights,  sewers,  water  pipes,  etc. 

Provisions  are  in  certain  sections  extremely  cheap,  in  others 
very  dear,  on  account  of  transportation  difficulties.  Lima  is 
called  expensive  and  it  would  seem  that  eggs  and  chickens 
might  be  profitably  raised  near  by,  also  daii-y  products  and 
other  supplies. 

At  i)resent  the  chief  exports  from  Peru  in  the  order  i)f 
their  value  are  minerals,  sugar,  cotton,  rubber,  wool,  petro- 


376  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

leiim,  guano,  Panama  hats,  hides  and  skins,  ice,  cocaine,  coca, 
coffee.  The  leading-  imports  are  textiles,  coal,  machinei-y,  etc. ; 
from  the  United  States,  machinery,  wood,  drugs,  meats,  bread- 
stuffs,  shoes,  coal,  hardware,  arms  and  ammunition,  soap, 
vehicles,  instruments  and  apparatus,  general  merchandise. 

It  should  be  noted  in  connection  with  Peru,  that  machinery 
and  supplies  for  railroad  construction  and  for  mining  are  ad- 
mitted free  of  duty ;  also  as  an  item  of  great  importance,  that 
the  export  tax  on  rubber  is  less  than  one-quarter  of  that  ex- 
acted by  Brazil  and  a  little  smaller  than  the  one  fixed  by  Bo- 
livia. For  this  reason  the  country  is  especially  favorable  for 
the  extension  of  the  rubber  industry. 

Bolivia.  The  products  of  Bolivia  are  like  those  of  Peru 
except  that  its  agricultural  resources  are  as  yet  little  devel- 
oped. Hence  there  is  more  importation  of  food  stuffs;  flour 
is  an  article  of  export  from  the  United  States,  as  well  as  pre- 
serves and  suet.  Canned  stuffs  are  useful  to  the  mining  and 
railroad  people.  Cartridges,  leather  goods,  soap,  kerosene, 
furniture,  clothing,  dynamite,  firearms,  copper  wire,  iron  and 
steel,  vinegar,  Florida  water,  wood,  agricultural  tools,  mining 
machinery,  lard,  cotton,  cameras,  sewing  machines,  typewrit- 
ers are  other  imports. 

Bolivia  presents  excellent  opportunities  for  mining.  Tin 
of  first  importance,  silver,  copper,  and  bismuth  are  now  the 
chief  mineral  exports,  although  rich  deposits  of  gold  are  at- 
tested. 

The  montana  country  presents  conditions  similar  to  Peru, 
for  the  rubber  industry,  for  the  raising  of  coffee,  coca,  qui- 
nine, and  other  products.  A  grain  called  quinua,  cultivated 
on  the  plateau,  is  said  to  be  more  nutritious  than  wheat.  The 
alpaca  and  vicuna  here  flourish,  the  former  supplying  15  lbs. 
of  wool  every  other  year.  Persons  who  find  the  plateau  region 
cheerless  might  enjoy  the  agricultural  section  part  way  down 
the  eastern  slope  of  the  mountains;  thus  a  San  Francisco 
gentleman,  many  years  resident  of  the  Garden  City,  Cocha- 
bamba,  over  whose  climate  and  future  prospects  he  speaks 
with  enthusiasm.  Tarija,  farther  south,  has  a  delightful  cli- 
mate and  equal  prospects. 

One  American  living  on  the  plateau  has  been  doing  a  thriv- 
ing business  by  making  monthly  trips  to  the  interior  150  miles 


SOUTH  AMERICAN  TRADE  377 

to  the  east,  selling  goods  at  the  haciendas  and  the  Indian  vil- 
lages, $10,000  worth  on  a  trip,  and  bringing  baek  fruit  and 
vegetables  to  the  cities  above. 

The  several  lines  of  railway  just  completed  and  several 
more  in  construction  make  certain  the  immediate  dcvclojunent 
and  rapid  progress  of  this  country.  The  possibilitii-s  for  the 
production  of  wool  are  very  large  and  also  for  cattle  raising. 
The  climate  of  a  large  part  of  the  country  is  healthful  and 
agreeable,  and  residence  in  La  Paz  and  other  cities  is  enjoyed 
by  many  Americans.  Bolivia's  rapid  development  and  pi-os- 
perity  is  assured. 

Chile.  The  country  of  Chile,  curiously  unique  in  shape, 
being  excessively  long  and  thin,  extends  over  2000  miles  from 
north  to  soutli,  with  a  width  of  from  105  to  248  miles  from 
east  to  west.  Although  so  narrow,  it  has  each  way  three  well 
marked  divisions :  from  north  to  south,  the  rainless,  desert  and 
nitrate  region,  within  and  near  the  tropics;  the  temperate 
central  section,  a  rich  agricultural  district  with  considerable 
rainfall;  and  the  southern  portion,  with  too  much  precipita- 
tion, rain,  snow,  and  fogs,  largely  a  forest  land  with  some 
swamps  and  grazing  country.  Along  the  entire  shore  runs 
the  Coast  Cordillera  with  an  altitude  ranging  from  1000  to 
GOOO  or  7000  feet;  then  comes  a  plateau  or  valley,  in  the  far 
south  a  drowned  valley  with  straits  and  fjords,  and  at  the 
east  the  great  Andes  ]\Its.,  the  height  of  which  forms  the  east- 
ern boundary  line. 

A  variety  of  climate  and  scenery  is  o])vi()us]y  presented, 
agreeable  to  dwellers  in  the  Temperate  Zone.  Aside  from  the 
strictly  troi)ical  productions,  almost  everything  found  in  Peru 
and  Bolivia  is  liere  provided;  minerals  galore,  especially  cop- 
per, iron,  and  coal,  with  gold,  silver,  etc.,  in  addition  to  tiie 
world  famed  nitrates,  and  iodine.  Petroleum  and  natural  gas 
have  recently  been  discovered.  Noted,  like  California,  for  its 
fine  fruits  and  vegetables,  the  central  section  alTords  ample 
field  to  increase  their  production.  Here,  too,  the  raising  of 
grain  and  of  forage  plants  is  extensively  ]iracticed ;  stock 
farming  is  a  great  source  of  wealtli,  Cliilian  horses  are  of 
noted  excellence,  and  cattle  flourisli.  \'iticulture  and  apicul- 
ture are  profitable,  the  expoi't  of  honey  lieiiig  important.  At 
the  south,  the  growing  lumber  business  offers  a  fine  field  to 


;{78  THE  SOUTH  American  tour 

experts,  as  well  as  Uk;  valual)]e  fishei-ics.  The  already  large 
sheep  raising  interests  are  chiefly  in  the  territory  of  Magellan. 
The  canning  industry  both  as  to  fruits  and  fish  may  be 
developed  with  great  profit.  Manufactured  goods  are  pro- 
duced to  the  extent  of  $1.30,000,000  worth  a  year.  Railway 
building,  which  has  been  rapidly  progressing,  will  for  some 
years  continue  to  be  an  important  field  of  labor.  The  Govern- 
ment has  planned  to  expend  within  this  decade  many  millions 
of  dollars  for  public  works,  hydraulic  and  maritime,  for  irri- 
gation, public  buildings,  and  railways. 

The  imports  include  such  things  as  sugar  and  coffee,  also 
petroleum  from  Peru ;  from  the  United  States,  mineral  prod- 
ucts, especially  steel  and  coal,  with  machinery  of  various 
kinds,  paper,  vegetable  produce,  textiles,  chemicals,  etc. 

Presenting  conditions  similar  to  our  own  West  Coast,  includ- 
ing the  earthquakes,  the  British  and  German  settlers  in  the 
country  have  as  much  enthusiasm  for  their  new  home  as  have 
immigrants  to  California.  In  scenery,  climate,  and  oppor- 
tunities, Chile  offers  unusual  attractions. 

I  had  forgotten  to  state  that  valuable  oyster  beds  exist  in 
the  Gulf  of  Ancud,  and  that  on  the  island  of  Chiloe  two  crops 
a  year  of  excellent  potatoes  may  be  grown. 

Argentina,  Argentina  with  its  great  plains  is  entirely  dif- 
ferent from  the  West  Coast  countries.  From  its  configura- 
tion, its  development,  especially  its  railroad  building,  has  been 
a  far  simpler  proposition.  It  was  easy  to  raise  cattle  and  with 
the  profits  thus  obtained  to  cultivate  immense  agricultural 
properties.  Almost  every  kind  of  vegetable  production  is  to 
be  found  in  this  great  Republic,  and  the  rewards  of  agricul- 
ture and  stock  raising  have  been  quite  equal  to  the  wealth  of 
the  mines  elsewhere  and  far  more  useful. 

The  plague  of  locusts  is  an  occasional  drawback,  but  not 
serious  enough  greatly  to  interfere  with  the  grand  total  of 
production.  As  the  boundaries  on  the  west  extend  along  the 
height  of  the  Andes,  some  mineral  wealth  exists  on  their  slopes, 
but  the  possibilities  in  stock  and  wheat  raising  have  been  too 
attractive  for  much  attention  to  be  devoted  to  mining  mat- 
ters. The  agricultural  products,  wheat,  oats,  and  linseed  run 
up  into  millions  of  tons ;  the  quantity  of  exports  of  these  sur- 


SOUTH  AMERICAN  TRADE  379 

passes  in  value  tliose  of  the  United  States,  \vhile  that  of  meat 
exported  is  vastly  greater.  AVitli  their  small  population  rela- 
tive to  the  extent  of  territory  it  is  certain  that  for  many  years 
Arf^entina  will  raise  cattle  and  sheep  enough  to  help  out  the 
moie  thickly  settled  portions  of  the  glohe.  To  enter  into  such 
enterprises  to-day  of  course  capital  is  needed,  though  some  of 
the  present  day  millionaires  went  thither  with  nothing  and 
worked  their  way  to  fortune.  Wages  for  mechanics  are  good, 
and  in  some  other  lines,  but  expenses  also  are  large.  Accord- 
ing to  the  number  of  inhabitants  Argentijia  has  more  railways 
than  the  United  States,  though  not  in  proportion  to  the  extent 
of  territory.  Almost  everything  is  imported  into  the  country 
except  meat  and  agricultural  products,  our  share  of  the  im- 
ports being  less  than  half  that  of  Great  Britain. 

The  northern  and  southern  sections  of  Argentina  still  afford 
splendid  opportunities  to  the  pioneer,  presenting  a  wide  choice 
of  climate  and  variety  of  employment.  In  the  tropical  and 
sul)-troi)ical  regions  of  the  north  are  immense  forests  for 
exploitation  with  quebracho,  laurel,  palms,  and  woods  in  end- 
less variety,  lands  suitable  for  the  culture  of  coffee,  sugar 
cane,  yerba  mate,  cotton,  rice,  hemp,  mandioca,  and  banana, 
and  in  places  farther  south  or  on  uplands,  soil  for  barley, 
wheat,  corn,  alfalfa,  tobacco,  the  vine,  etc. 

The  central  pampa  is  of  course  the  especial  region  for  ce- 
reals, wheat,  corn,  and  flax,  and  this  is  not  entirely  pre-empted. 
In  Patagonia  at  the  south  thei-e  is  a  gi'cat  held  for  raising 
cattle,  sheep,  goats,  horses,  guanaco,  and  the  ostrich,  as  for 
alfalfa,  wheat,  and  barley,  though  in  the  greater  part  irriga- 
tion is  necessary  for  agricultui-e.  With  moderate  capital 
pioneers  of  experience  and  skill  should  be  able  to  amass  large 
fortunes. 

From  jjick  of  cdnl,  if  not  of  water  ])o\V(.r,  it  is  probable  that 
agrifiiltiiijil  jiiid  aiiiiiuil  products  will  long  continue  to  be  the 
chief  exports  of  Argentina  and  that  maiuifaetui'ed  goods  will 
be  the  principal  imports.  Textiles  and  manufactures  of 
these  are  of  the  great^'st  \alue,  iron  and  steel  .irtides  come 
second,  railway  cars  and  e(|uipinenl  and  other  vehicles  third, 
then  eonie  l)uilding  iiiiitenals,  earth,  stone  and  coal,  and  so  on, 
ever\'    kind    ol"    merchandise    in    use    in    a    civilized    countrv. 


380  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

Goods  that  sell  in  New  York  and  Paris  are  likely  to  sell  in 
Buenos  Aires,  only — the  Pure  Food  Law  is  strict.  Chicago 
hams  are  barred,  though  British  hams  are  admitted. 

Our  farming  machinery  and  tools  have  been  largely  sold, 
yet  by  some  the  machinery  is  called  too  light  to  last  and  an 
English  make  is  preferred.  An  Australian  machine,  called  a 
cropper,  a  thrasher  and  harvester  combined,  has  been  received 
with  much  favor.     Duties  generally  are  very  high. 

For  successful  competition  in  foreign  markets,  the  highest 
grade  of  our  goods  must  be  presented  and  business  contracts 
strictly  carried  out. 

Paraguay,  with  a  healthful  sub-tropical  climate,  possesses 
splendid  forests  with  woods  similar  to  those  of  the  Argentine 
Chaco,  great  plains  supporting  many  herds  of  cattle,  and  land 
capable  of  producing  excellent  cotton,  tobacco,  fruit,  and  all 
kinds  of  tropical  growths.  The  yerha  mate  which  grows  wild, 
but  may  be  cultivated,  is  one  of  the  chief  exports,  bound  to 
increase  rapidly,  as  the  beverage,  more  healthful  than  tea  or 
coffee,  is  extremely  popular  even  with  the  European  immi- 
grants, and  in  foreign  countries.  Hides,  quebracho  extracts, 
and  timber  are  exports  of  still  greater  value.  The  character 
of  the  imports  is  much  the  same  as  in  the  neighboring  coun- 
tries. Railroad  building  is  going  on,  and  in  spite  of  recent 
war,  internal  development  is  in  progress.  Railway  material 
is  free  of  dut}^  as  is  the  case  also  with  agricultural  and  indus- 
trial machinery,  ship  building  material,  wire  fencing,  etc. 

Uruguay,  Avith  a  fine  temperate  climate  and  a  pleasant  roll- 
ing country,  is  attractive  to  settlers  with  an  eye  to  cattle 
raising  or  agriculture.  Americans  of  this  class,  as  well  as 
business  men  and  investors  in  any  line,  are  cordially  welcomed 
by  Uruguayans,  and  finding  the  atmosphere  more  homelike 
than  in  some  other  places  they  are  well  content  to  stay. 
"While  agriculture  and  the  live  stock  industry  are  the  chief 
activities,  there  are  local  manufacturing  interests  which  do 
not,  however,  begin  to  supply  the  market.  Railway  extension 
is  in  progress,  and  the  navigable  rivers  are  an  important 
accessory. 

By  far  the  greatest  export  is  animal  production,  including 
wool,  skins  and  hides,  meat  and  meat  extracts,  etc.,  while  agri- 
cultural products  are  a  distant  second. 


SOUTH  AMERICAN  TRADE  381 

The  imports  are  similar  to  those  of  Argentina,  ineluding 
practically  everything  wiiich  it  does  not  export. 

Brazil,  like  Pern,  embraces  within  its  borders  an  immense 
vai'icly  of  resoui'ccs,  and  a  considerable  though  smaller  tliver- 
sity  of  climate.  On  the  highlands  of  the  tropics  it  is  comfort- 
ably cool,  as  well  as  in  the  south.  In  many  quarters  it  is 
temperate  and  even  subject  to  frost,  in  a  few  places  to  snow. 

The  magnitude  of  its  wealth  in  rubber,  cofl'ee,  and  all  trop- 
ical and  sub-tropical  productions  is  well  understood;  the  rich- 
ness of  its  mineral  deposits  is  less  known.  Still  less  perhaps 
is  the  fact  that  Brazil  is  larger  than  the  United  Slates  proper, 
and  that  it  contains  si.\  cities  of  100,000  or  more  population, 
including  one  of  400,000,  Sao  Paulo,  and  Rio  with  ai)proxi- 
mately  a  million. 

Everything  is  included  within  her  boundaries,  and  whatever 
one's  taste  in  business,  apart  from  polar  exploration,  there  is 
room  for  its  gratilieation  here — opi)ortunities  for  the  settle- 
ment of  colonies  in  delightful  climate  and  surroundings  on 
the  richest  soil,  if  persons  care  to  indulge  in  agriculture,  and 
locations  e(iually  favorable  for  entering  into  mining  or  com- 
mercial industry.  Cattle  raising  is  a  growing  occupation. 
Food  stuft's  in  Rio  being  very  dear,  market  gardening  could 
be  engaged  in  to  excellent  advantage  in  many  spots  on  the 
highlands  at  no  great  distance  l)y  rail  from  the  capital.  A 
sinnlar  opportunity  exists  near  Buenos  Aires,  though  as  land 
in  the  vicinity  is  held  at  a  high  price  it  would  be  necessary  to 
go  farther  out  on  the  railway,  or  across  the  river  into 
Uruguay. 

The  coffee  i)lantations  (>f  Brazil  are  already  so  extensive 
as  to  make  entrance  into  that  business  undesirable  if  nol  im- 
possible, except  by  the  ])un'liase  of  planlatidns  already  in 
beai-ing.  Aside  from  coft'ee  and  rul)i)ei',  llie  chief  agricultiii-al 
pi-oducts  are  rice,  cotton,  sugar,  !j(  rha  mate  or  Paraguay  tea, 
mandioca,  and  cacao,  or  cocoa.  .Many  manufactured  goods 
are  now  produced,  maiidy  of  tli<'  ordinary  necessities  of  life, 
leaving  plenty  of  room  for  importation.  It  is  desired  to 
increase  such  industries,  inducements  are  otTcred  by  the 
l^'ederal  (Jovei-nment  for  establishing  ironworks,  the  State  of 
Rio  has  granted  large  privileges  to  the  first  flour  null,  and  a 
subsidy  to  a  firm  making  paper  fi'om  the  reed  fxtjitirus  whicii 


382  THE  SOUTH  A:\IERICAN  TOl'R 

grows  all  alonj^  the  coast.  jManui'actures  of  ru})ber  would  he 
very  profitable  on  account  of  the  20  per  cent  export  tax  on 
rubber  and  the  high  tariff  on  imports.  fSteam  laundries,  fruit 
eaMiicries,  chemical  works,  and  other  industries  may  be  inau- 
gurated to  advantage  in  various  fjlaces. 

From  the  United  States  is  imported  a.  great  variety  of 
articles,  railway  ears  and  locomotives,  automobiles,  machinery 
of  many  kinds,  sewing  machfnes,  typewriters,  apples,  general 
merchandise,  and  other  articles  without  end. 

Railways  are  being  rapidly  extended  and  planned  for  the 
future,  and  aside  from  the  rubber  business  every  kind  of  in- 
dustry and  commercial  activity  may  be  pursued  amid  agree- 
able and  healthful  surroundings. 

It  is  desirable  that  one  wishing  to  enter  into  business  of 
any  kind  in  South  America  should  make  the  tour  and  see  for 
himself  the  character  of  the  country  and  the  opportunities 
otTered.  Also  the  poor  consuls  will  be  grateful,  both  those  of 
the  United  States  in  foreign  countries  and  their  representa- 
tives here,  if  people  veill  use  an  atlas  and  a  geographical 
reader  if  nothing  more  before  writing  letters,  so  that  they 
will  not  bother  these  hard-worked  oi^cials  with  absolutely 
foolish  questions.  It  should  not  be  necessary  for  consuls  to 
give  information  which  every  schoolboy  ought  to  possess,  al- 
though I  fear  he  does  not. 

When  children  and  grown  people  are  ignorant  of  the  names 
of  the  capitals  of  the  various  States  in  tlie  Union,  it  is  per- 
haps too  much  to  expect  them  to  know  whether  Lima  is  on 
the  East  Coast  or  the  West,  or  whether  Argentina  is  a  break- 
fast food  or  a  fish.  Happily  the  ABC  mediation  has  at  last 
put  Argentina  on  the  map.  If  my  labors  incite  others  to  seek 
further  information  and  especially  to  make  the  delightful 
South  American  Tour,  I  shall  feel  that  I  have  performed  a 
genuine  service. 


BIBLIOCxRAPIIY 

A  list  of  some  recent  books  on  South  America  is  ai)pended. 
liy  no  means  complete,  it  includes  works  for  the  most  part 
easily  obtainable.  AVhile  some  of  these  present  merely  super- 
ficial observation,  and  few  profess  to  be  exhaustive,  all  to  tiie 
average  reader  will  be  more  or  less  instructive  and  entertain- 
int?.  A  le*i:itimate  difference  of  opinion  exists  as  to  people, 
places,  and  ])os.sibilities;  other  contradictory  assertions  arise 
from  too  hasty  judgments.  Errors,  however,  are  generally  of 
minor  importance,  although  in  some  cases  wrong  impressions 
of  people  and  places  are  conveyed.  On  account  of  rapid 
(•banges  the  books  published  within  the  last  five  or  eight  years 
are  especially  valuable;  yet  some  of  those  earlier  written  sup- 
])Iy  important  information  on  particular  subjects.  To  gain 
a  fair  idea  of  the  various  countries  several  general  works 
should  be  read  and  a  few  of  those  on  the  individual  Republics. 

IMonographs  on  each  of  these,  published  by  the  Pan  Ameri- 
can Union,  may  be  procured  at  $1.00  a  copy. 

The  large  and  handsomely  illustrated  volumes  on  Peru, 
Bolivia,  Chile,  and  Brazil  by  !Marie  Rol)inson  Wright,  with 
some  negligible  extravagance  of  compliment,  contain  much 
that  is  of  value  and  hardly  procurable  elsewhere;  historical 
information  and  descriptions  of  the  general  aspect,  the  re- 
sources, and  the  conditions  of  the  various  countries,  presented 
witli  unusual  fulness,  accuracy,  and  elegance. 

SOUTH  AMERICA  IX  (iEXERAL 

Pan  American  Union — Peace,  Friendship,  Commerce. 
John  Barrett.  AVashington,  Pan  American  Union.  1!»11, 
$1.00. 

Latin  America,  Its  Rise  and  Progress.  F.  (Jarcia  Calderon. 
New  York,  Charles  Scril)ner'.s  Sons.     l!ll;5.     $;}.()0. 

South  America.  AVilliam  1).  Bnyee.  Illustrated.  Chicago, 
Rand,  ]\IcXally  &  Co.     1!)1.?. "  .+•_»..')(». 


384  biblio(;rapiiy 

Across  Unknown  South  America.  W.  Savage  Landor. 
Boston,  Little,  Brown  &  Co.     1913. 

Through  South  America.  II.  W.  Van  Dyke.  New  York, 
Crowell  Publishing  Co.     1912.     $2.00. 

South  America,  Observations  and  Impressions.  James 
Bryce.     New  York,  The  IMaemillan  Co.     1912.     .$2.50. 

South  America.  Forrest  Koebel.  With  colored  illustrations. 
New  York,  The  Macmillan  Co.     1912.     $5.00. 

A  Woman's  Winter  in  South  America.  Charlotte  Cam- 
eron.   Boston,  Small,  Maynard  &  Company.    1912.    $1.50. 

History  op  South  America.  C.  E.  Akers.  New  York,  E.  P. 
Button  &  Co.     1912.     $6.00. 

South  American  Archaeology.  T.  A.  Joyce.  New  York, 
G.  P.  Putnam's  Sons.     1912.     $3.50. 

South  American  Problems.  Robert  E.  Speer.  New  York, 
Student  Volunteer  Movement.     1912.     75  cents. 

South  America  To-day  (Argentina,  Uruguay,  Brazil). 
G.  E.  B.  Clemenceau.  New  York,  G.  P.  Putnam's  Sons. 
1911.     $2*.00. 

FOLLOW^ING  THE  CONQUIST ADORES  ALONG  THE  AnDES  AND  DOWN 

the  Amazon.     H.  J.  Mozans.     New  York,  D.  Appleton 
&  Co.     1911.     $3.50. 

The  Land  op  the  Southern  Cross.  Charles  Warren  Cur- 
rier.    Spanish  American  Pub.  Society.     1911.     $1.50. 

Across  South  America.  Hiram  Bingham.  Boston,  Hough- 
ton, Mifflin  Co.     1911.     $3.50. 

Great  States  op  South  America.  Charles  W.  Domville- 
Fife.     New  York,  The  Macmillan  Co.     1910.     $4.50. 

Practical  Guide  to  South  America.  Albert  B.  Hale.  Bos- 
ton, Small,  ]\Iaynard  &  Company.     1909.     $1.00. 

The  Andean  Land.  Two  Volumes.  Chase  S.  Osborn.  Chi- 
cago, A.  C.  McClurg  &  Co.     1909.     $5.00. 

A  Pleasure  Pilgrimage  in  South  America.  C.  D.  j\Iackel- 
lar.     London,  John  ^Inrray.     1908. 


BIBLIOGRAPHY  385 

The  Other  Americans.  Arthur  Ruhl.  New  York,  Charles 
Scribner's  Sons.     1908.     $2.00. 

The  Continent  of  Opportunity.  Francis  E.  Clark.  Now 
York,  Fleming  11.  Kevell  Co.     1907.     $1.50. 

The  South  Americ.vns.  Albert  B.  Hale.  Indianaixjlis, 
Bobbs-Merrill  Co.     1907.     .$2.50. 

Pan.\m.\  to  Patagonia.  Charles  N.  Pepper.  A.  C.  McClnig 
&  Co.     1906.     .$3.50. 

The  Land  of  Tomorrow.  J.  Orton  Kerbey.  New  York,  The 
Author.     190C.     $1.50. 

Through  Five  Republics  (includino-  Brazil,  I"ru<ruay,  Argen- 
tina).  P.  F.  Martin.  New  York,  Dodd,  .Mead  &  Co. 
1906.     .$5.00. 

A  Commercial  Traveler  in  South  America.  Frank  AViborg. 
]\IeClure  Phillips.     1905.     $1.00. 

The  South  American  Republics.  Thomas  C.  Dawson.  2 
Vols.     G.  P.  Putnam's  Sons.     1904.     Eaeli  $1.50. 

The  South  American  Year  Book.  The  Louis  Cassier  Com- 
pany, London.     $8.50. 

Exporters'  Encyclopedia  (Information  as  to  shipments  for 
every  country).     New  York.     1913.     $7.50. 

PANA.MA. 

The  Panama  Guide.  J.  0.  Collins.  Panama,  Vibert  cV: 
Dixon.     1912.     $1.50. 

Panama  and  the  Canal  Today.  II.  A.  Foilx's-Lindsay. 
Boston,  L.  C  Page  &  Co.     1912.     $1.20. 

Panama  Canal,  AVilvt  it  is,  AVilvt  it  mkaxs.  .John  IJarrctt. 
Washington,  Pan  American  Pnion.     1!)1;>.     $1.00. 

l'.\\A.M.\,  P.vsT  AND  I'uKSF.NT.  l-'aniliaiii  r.ish()i>.  New  VoiU, 
Century  Co.     1913.     75.-. 

The  Panama  (Jateway.  Jo.seph  Jiueklin  liishoj).  New  York, 
Charles  Scribner's  Sons.     1913.     $2.50. 


386  BIBLIOGRAPHY 

Isthmian  Tourists'  Guide  and  Business  Directory.  Isth- 
mian Tourists'  Guide  and  Directory  Co.     1912.     .$1.50. 

p]CUADOR. 

Travels  in  the  Wilds  op  P^cuador.     Alfred  Simpson. 

Travels  Among  the  Great  Andes  op  the  Equator.  Sir 
Edward  Whymper.  New  York,  Charles  Scribner's  Sons. 
.$2.50. 

PERU. 

The  Old  and  the  New  Peru.  IM.  R.  Wright.  Philadelphia, 
George  Barrie.     1908.     $10.00. 

Peru  in  1906  by  Alexander  Garland.  Translated  by  George 
R.  Gepp.     London.     1907. 

Peru,  its  Forms  and  its  Present  Civilization.  C.  R.  Enock. 
New  York,  Charles  Scribner's  Sons.     1908.     $3.00. 

The  Incas  op  Peru.  Sir  Clements  Markham.  New  York,  E. 
P.  Dutton  &  Co.     1910.     $3.00. 

Peru  op  the  Tv^entieth  Century.  P.  F.  IMartin.  London, 
Longmans,  Green  &  Co.     1911,     $4.20. 

The  Andes  and  the  Amazon.  C.  R.  Enock.  New  York, 
Charles  Scribner's  Sons.     1910.     $1.50. 

A  Search  por  the  Apex  op  America.  Annie  S.  Peck.  New 
York,  Dodd,  Mead  &  Co.     1911.     $3.50. 

Pachacamac.  ]\Iax  Uhle.  The  University  of  Pennsylvania. 
New  York,  D.  Appleton  &  Co.     $10.00. 

Peru,  its  Story,  People  and  Religion.  Geraldine  Guinness. 
New  York,  Fleming  H.  Revell  Co.     1909.     $2.50. 

Peru  (chiefly  archaeological).  E.  George  Squier.  New 
York,  Harper  &  Bros.     1877. 

The  Conquest  op  Peru.     William  II.  Prescott. 
Guide  to  Peru.     A.  de  Clairmont. 

BOLIVIA. 

Bolivia,  the  Central  Highway  op  South  America.  M.  R. 
Wright.     Philadelphia,  George  Barrie.     1907.     $10.00. 


BIBLIOGRAPHY  387 

The  Bolivian  Andes.  Sir  ^lartin  Conway.  New  York, 
Harper  &  Bros.     1901.     $3.00. 

Across  the  Andes.  C.  J.  Post.  Now  York,  Ontinu:  Pub.  Co. 
]912.     .$1.75. 

A  Search  for  the  Apex  op  America.  Annie  S.  Peck.  New 
York,  Dodd,  .Mead  &  Co.     1911.     .$3.50. 

CHILE. 

jModern  Chile.  W.  IT.  Koebel.  New  York,  The  IMaeniillan 
Co.     1913.     $3.00. 

Chile  and  her  People  of  Today.  Xevin  0.  Winter.  Bos- 
ton, L.  C.  Page  &  Co.     1912.     $3.00. 

Chile;  Economic  and  Social  Progress.  Julio  Perez  Canto. 
Chicago,  Rand,  IMeXally  &  Co.     1912.     $1.00. 

The  Republic  of  Chile.  M.  R.  Wright.  Phihidelphia, 
George  Barrie,  1905.     $10.00. 

Chile.     G.  F.  Scott  Elliott.     Charles  Scribner's  Sons.     1911. 
$3.00. 

Aconcagua  and  Tierra  del  Fuego.  Sir  ^lartin  Conway. 
London,  Cassell  &  Co.     1902.     $3.00. 

The  Highest  Andes.  E.  A.  Fitz  Gerald.  New  Yoi-k,  Charles 
Scribner's  Sons.     1899.     $G.OO. 

ARGENTINA. 

jMoDHRN  Argentina.  W.  H.  Koebel.  Bo.ston,  Dana  Esles 
and  Coini)any.      1912.     $3.50. 

Ahgentink  Year  Book.  Information  as  to  Palents.  lianks, 
Industries,  etc.  liuenos  Aires,  Kobei-t  (Ji'ant  &  Co. 
London,  Ledger,  Son  &  Co.     1912.     $1().(H». 

Argentina  Past  and  Prese.vt.  "\V.  II.  Koilxl.  Xrw  Yoik, 
Dodd,  Mead  &  Co.     1911.     .$4.00. 

Argentina  and  Her  People  of  Today.  Xevin  ().  Winter. 
Boston,  L.  C.  Page  &  Co.     l!M  1.     $3.(10. 

Argentine  Plains  and  Andine  (Jlacieus.  Walter  Lardcn. 
New  York,  Charles  Scril)ner's  Sons.     1911.     $3.75. 


388  BIBLIOGRAPHY 

Argentina.  W.  A.  Hirst.  New  York,  Charles  Seribner's 
Sons.     1912.     $3.00. 

The  Republic  of  Argentina  (historical  and  descriptive). 
A.    Stuart    Pennington.     New   York,    A.    Stokes    &    Co. 

1910.  $3.00. 

The  Argentine  in  the  Twentieth  Century  (valuable  as  to 
industries,  business  and  resources).  A.  B.  Martinez  and 
Maurice  Lewandowski.  Boston,  Small,  IMaynard  & 
Company.     $3.50. 

Forty  Years  in  the  Argentine  Republic.  Arthur  E. 
Shaw.     London,  Elkin  &  jMatthews. 

The  Argentine  Republic  (for  exporters).  New  York,  J.  P. 
Santamarina,  80  Wall  St.     1911.     $2.50. 

PARAGUAY. 

Unknown  People  in  an  Unknown  Land.  "W.  Barbrooke 
Grubb.     London,  Seeley  &  Co.     1911. 

Pictorial    Paraguay.     A.     K.    Macdonald.     C.    H.    Kelly. 

1911.  $4.00. 

In  Jesuit  Land  (Jesuit  Missions  of  Paraguay  and  Argen- 
tina).    W.  H.  Koebel.     1912.     $3.00. 

Paraguay.     M.    E.   Hardy.     New  York,    Charles    Seribner's 
•    Sons.     1913.     $3.00. 

URUGUAY. 

Uruguay.  W.  H.  Koebel.  Charles  Seribner's  Sons.  1911. 
$3.00. 

BRAZIL. 

The  New  Brazil.  jM.  R.  Wright.  Philadelphia,  George 
Barrie.     1908.     $10.00. 

Brazil.  Pierre  Denis.  New  York,  Charles  Seribner's  Sons. 
1911.     $3.00. 

United  States  of  Brazil.  Charles  W.  Domville-Fife.  New 
York,  James  Pott  &  Co.     1911.     $2.50. 


BIBLIOGRAPHY  389 

Brazil  in  1912  (for  business  nienj.  J.  C.  Oakenfull.  Dis- 
tributed gratis  by  the  Pan  American  Union.  Washing- 
ton. 

Brazil  and  IIer  People  of  Today.  N.  0.  "Winter.  Boston, 
L.  C.  Page  &  Co.     1910.     $;].00. 

The  Sea  and  the  Jungle.  II.  ^M,  Tomlinson.  New  York, 
E.  P.  Button  &  Co.     1913.     $2.50. 

The  Flowing  Road.  Caspar  Whitney.  Philadelphia,  J.  B. 
Lippincott  Co.     1912.     $3.00. 

In  the  Amazon  Jungle.  A.  Lange.  New  York,  (J.  P.  Put- 
nam's Sons.     1912.     $2.50. 

By  Horse,  Canoe,  and  Float  Through  the  Wilderness  op 
Brazil.  W.  A.  Cook.  New  York,  American  Tract  So- 
ciety.    1910.     $1.25. 

Brazil  of  Today.  Arthur  Bias  (Interesting  and  valuable). 
Lanneau  &  Despret,  Nivelles,  Belgium. 

Brazil,  the  Amazons  and  the  Coast.  II.  H.  Smith.  New 
York,  Charles  Scribner's  Sons.     1870.     $5.00. 

American  Consul  in  Amazonia.  James  Orton  Kerbey. 
1911.     $2.50. 


INDEX 


Abruzzi,    Duke    of,    217. 

Abuna,  352. 

Acliiicaclii,   144. 

Aconcagua,  Mt.,  41,  49,  I.IO,  17i), 
191,  201,  202;   River,   199. 

Aguapehy,   R.,  353. 

Alagoas,  343. 

Almagro,  Diego  de,  44,  61,  62,  118, 
129,  130,  160. 

Alpacas,     123. 

Alto,  145,  147. 

Alto  Parana,   260. 

Amazon,    98,    345. 

Amfato,   Mt.,    109. 

Ancolacalla,   147. 

Ancon:   Panama,  33;   Peru,  87. 

Ancud,  Gulf,   192. 

Antilla,  9. 

Antofagasta,  64,  90.  156,  157,  158, 
159;   R.  R.,   150-153. 

Antonina,  293,  294. 

Apostoles,   201. 

Apurimac,   R.,    122. 

Araucanians,    160,    193. 

Arequipa,   99,    102-106,    109. 

Argentina,   213-267,   378-380. 

Arica,  65,  146,  154;  R.  R.  to  La 
Paz,  146,  to  Tacna,  155. 

Aricoma  Pass,   110. 

Art  Galleries:  Lima,  73,  79;  San- 
tiago, 183;  Buenos  Aires.  242, 
243;  Asuncion,  269;  Rio  de 
Janeiro,  322,  323. 

Artigas,   Jose,   272,   273. 
Aspinvvall,  \Ym.  H.,  19. 

390 


Asuncion,   257,   263,   268-270 
Atacama,   157. 
Atahuallpa,    44,    45,    114. 
Audieneia,  62,  03,    130,    101.   218. 
Ayacucho,  46,  97,  131. 
Aymaras,  124,   127,   135. 
Ayolas,  Juan  de,  217,  261. 

Baggage,  4. 

Bahia,   343,   353-357. 

Balboa:    Docks,    38,   43;    Hill.    13; 

Vasco  Nimez  de,   13. 
Balde,  214. 

Ballivian,  Dr.  Manuel  Vicente,  139, 
Balsas,   40,   125. 
Banks,   362. 
Barbados,    358. 
Barranco,   87. 
Bas   Obispo,   24,   25. 
Beagle  Channel,   192. 
Beira  Mar,  330. 
Belem,   345-348. 
Bello   Horizonte.   341,  342, 
Beni,  R.,  140,  352. 
Bio-bio,  R.,   193.   194. 
Black  Range,  56,  58. 
Blanco,   R.,  200. 
Bodegas,   210,  211. 
Bogota.  39 
Bohio,  25. 
Bolivar,    General    Simon,    63,    64, 

131. 
Bolivia,  99.  123,  127-153,  376,  377. 
Botanical    Gardens:    Kingston,    9; 

Lima,  81 ;  Arequipa,  105;    Sa» 


INDEX 


391 


tia<;o,  182;  Buenos  Aires,  24(1; 
Montevideo,  2S();  Uio  de 
JiUieiro,   .'i3.'J ;    Trinidad,   3.5S. 

Botafogo   ]5ay,   331. 

Brazil,   286-359,   380-382. 

Bridgetown,   358. 

Buenaventura,   39. 

Buenos  Aires,  204,  207,  217-254. 

C'abral,   I'cdro  Alvarez,  280. 

Caclieuta,  207. 

Cachipascana,   Lake,   109. 

Cajamarca,  45,  56. 

Caldera,    159. 

Cali,  39. 

Callao,   30,   43,  49,  59-01,  99. 

Calliimlli,   193. 

Campinas.   304. 

t'anal.   Panama,    13-18. 

Canelones,  283. 

Cape  Horn,  191. 

CarAz,  50. 

Caribbean  Sea,  8. 

Casapalca,   94. 

Cata,   147. 

Catacaos,   47. 

Cathedrals:  Santiago  de  Cuba,  9; 
Panama,  32;  Lima,  09;  Are- 
quipa,  103;  Cu/co,  110;  La 
Paz,  130;  Santiago,  173; 
Buenos  Aires,  227;  Monte- 
video, 275;  Sao  Paulo,  302; 
Rio  de  Janeiro,  318;  Para, 
340;    Bahia,  356. 

Ca.\aml)u,  343. 

Cayabamba,   41. 

Cearfi,  344,   350. 

Cebolhilio,     1  III. 

Cemeteries:  \  alparaiso,  107;  San- 
tiago, !8.")-lS7;  J^ueiKis  Aires, 
250. 

Central     Kailway    of    I'ciii,    !lI-95. 

Cerro  de   Paseo,   5S,  91,  95  !»7. 


( Vrro  Oigante,   13. 

Cerro    San    Cristol)al :     Lima,    83. 

84,  85;   Santiago,   185. 
Cliaeabuco,    161,   215,    219. 
Cbachani,   101,   102,   109. 
Ciiaco,   268. 

Chagres,  R.,   13,  22,  23,  24. 
Clian   Chan,  50-53. 
Cliirla,  94. 

(hi  If,    154-200,  377,  378. 
Chili,  II.,   103. 
Ciiillan,    193. 
Chimborazo,  39,  41. 
Chimbote,  50;    K.   K.,  54,  55. 
Chinui,  Grand,  51,  52,  53. 
Cliiquian,   58. 
Cliiri(]ni,  27. 
Ciiolo^.  73,   135. 
Ciiolula,  89. 
CIiii()(]uequirau,   122. 
Choriilos.  (i5.  SO. 
Chosica,  91,  92. 
Christ   of  tile  Andes,  204,  205. 
Chulpa,    124. 
Clnino,    138. 
Cliupe,   13,5. 
('lm(|uiagni]lo,    141. 
Cluuiniaim,  R.,   129,   134. 
('liiU|uisaca,  sec  Sucre. 
Climate,   2,   40. 
Clothing,  4. 
Coast  Range,  55. 
Cochabaniba,    148. 
Coehrane,   .Admiral.   03,    102,    195 
Coellio.    Conzalo,    308. 
ColTee,    304,    305. 
Colastine,  205. 
Colombia,   2,   39. 
Ccdon,    12.   18-21. 
('(donia,  2S3. 
Columlius,  8,  13,  21. 
Commercial    Travelers,    ,30(),    368. 
Ctnici'|i(iun,    l!t.{,    I'.M, 


392 


INDEX 


Conchi,  152. 

Condors,  205. 

Constitucion,  192. 

Conway,  Sir  Martin,  140,  146. 

Copacabana,  126. 

Copiapfi,  159. 

Coquimbo,   157,  159. 

Corcovado,  312,  334,  335. 

Cordillera  Blanca,  58. 

Cordillera  Real,   125. 

Cordoba,  214. 

Corocoro,  147. 

Coronel,  192,  193. 

Coropima.  Mt.,  41,   102. 

Corral,   195. 

Corrientes,  257,  258,  267. 

Cortez,  Hernando,  9. 

Cotopaxi,  39,  41. 

Cristobal,  21. 

Credit,  361. 

Crucero  Alto,  109. 

Cruz,  Oswaldo,  Institute,  327. 

Culebra,  14,  15,  24,  25,  26. 

Cumbre,  97,  198,  203,  205. 

Curytiba,  293,  294. 

Cuzco,   90,   106,   109,   110,   111-122. 

Darien,  27. 

Desaguadero,  R.,   124,   152. 

Desolation  Isl.,   195. 

Diamantina,  342. 

Docks:  Callao,  60;  Valparaiso, 
163;  Taleahuano,  193;  Buenos 
Aires,  253  ;  Rosario,  264 ;  San- 
tos, 296;  Rio  de  Janeiro,  310, 
316;  Para,  345;  Manaos,  348. 

Duran,    40. 

Earthquakes,  59,  70.  103.  107,  154, 

165,  188,  208,  209. 
Ecuador,  36,  39-42,  373. 
Empire,  25. 
Entre  Rios,  258,  265. 


Esinrito  Santo,  343. 
Estancias,  215,  254,  255. 
Et<^n,  48. 

Kuropcan  Tourists,  11. 
Expense  of  Journey,  3. 

Falkland   Islands,   192,   197. 
Fazendas,  304. 
Fitzgerald,  E.  A.,  201. 
Florianopolis,  292. 
Fortaleza,  344. 
Frijoles,  25. 

Galera  Tunnel,  94. 

Gamboa,  25. 

Garay,  Juan  de,  217. 

Gatun,  15,  16,  17,  23,  24. 

Geographical  Societies:   Lima,  82; 

La  Paz,   139;    Rio  de  Janeiro, 

319. 
Godin,  Madame,  351. 
Goethals,  Col.  George  W.,  15. 
Gorgas,  Col.  Wm.  C,  34. 
Gorgona,  25. 
Goyllarisquisga,  96. 
Grace,  W.  R.,  4,  61,  74,  139,  166. 
Grau,  Admiral,  64. 
Guanabara  Bay,  308. 
Guaqui,  124,  125,  127. 
Guaraja  Bay,  345. 
Guaranis,  263. 
Guarina,  144. 
Guaruja,  297. 
Guaruja-Mirim,  351,  352. 
Guayaquil,  36,  37,  39,  40. 
Guianas,  2. 

Harvard  Observatory,   105. 

History:  Panama,  13,  14;  Peru,  44- 
46,  61-65;  Inca,  112-114;  Bo- 
livia, 129-132;  Chile,  160-162; 
Argentina,  217-220;  Paraguay, 
261-263;  Uruguay,  272-274; 
Brazil.  286-289,  308,  309. 


INDEX 


393 


Horn,  CaiM',  ]!)!,  105. 

Hotels :  Colon,  IS,  1!);  raiiaiiKi.  2(;. 

27,  28;  Quito,  42;  Tnijillo,  50; 

Chiniboto,     55;      Callao,     Ul  ; 

Lima,     GG-U8 ;      Chosica,     92 ; 

Oroya,   95;    C.   de   Pasco,   9G; 

Mollendo,  99;    Arequipa,   102; 

Cuzco,  112;  La  Pa/,  129,  133; 

Valparaiso,     1G3,     1U4,     1G5; 

Santiago,    170,    171;   ^Vlcndoza, 

208;    Ihionos    Aires,    222-225; 

Rosario,  2G4;    Asuncion,   2G9; 

Montcviedo,  274,  275;   Santos, 

296;  Sao  Paulo,  300,  301;  Rio 

de  Janeiro,  311-314;   Pctropo- 

lis,    338;    Para,    347;    Bahia, 

355. 
Huacapistana,  98. 
Iluailas  Valley,  54,  55,  56. 
lluaina  Potosf,  Mt.,  145. 
Hualiata  Pass,  145. 
Ihuunan,  88. 

Huancayo,  91,  95,  97,  122. 
Huancliacho,  51. 
Huandoy,  Mt.,  57. 
.llui'muco,  98. 
lluaraz,  54,  58. 
lluascar,  44,  111,  114. 
Iluascaran,  Mt.,  41,  49,  5G-58,  203. 
Iluatanay,  R.,  Ill,  119. 
Ilumayta,  2G7. 


Icarahy,  340  . 

Ignorance,  3G3,  382. 

Iguassi'i    Falls,    257,    25S-2(in,    207, 

290,  291. 
Illanii)u.  Ml.,  II,  12.-).  127,  12,S.  H4, 

14.-),   1  IC). 
Illiniaiii,     Mt..    4  1.     12.-),     127.     12S, 

140. 
Ini])orts,    Cliarai'tcr    of,    371-373. 


Incas,  Empire  and  Ruins,  113-llfi, 

117-122. 
Injurious  Practices,  3G3-3G7. 
inijuisition   Mall,  75. 
Iiiti-Karka,  125,  12G. 
Lpiicjue,   155-157. 
Iquitos,  97,  98,  349. 
Irala,  Capt.  Martinez  de,  261. 
Island  of  Sun,  124,  125. 
Island  of  iloon,  125. 
Isthmus  of  Panama,  12-35. 

Jamaica,  10. 

Jamiraya  Canon,  147. 

.latnha,   357. 

Jauja,  97. 

Jauru,  R.,  353. 

Jesuits,  2G0,  287. 

Joao  VI,  Prince,  288,  317,  322, 

Juarez  Ines,   187. 

Judiaiiy,  299. 

Juliaea,  99,  109.  110,  123. 

Juncal,  200,  203. 

Junfn:    Peru,   95;    Argentina,   215. 

Kingston,  10. 

La  Candelaria,  2G1. 

La  Ouayra   Falls,  2G0. 

La  Ilerradura,  8G. 

La  Merced,  97,  9,S. 

La  Paz,  99,  128-141,  144,  150. 

La  Plata,  255,  25G  .  River,  220. 

La  Punta,  59,  87  . 

La  Ray  a.  111. 

La  Viuda,  Mt..  9G. 

Lagoa  dos  Patos,  291. 

Lagunillas,    109. 

Las  Cascadas,  25. 

Las  C'uevas,  192,  201   . 

Leguia,  A.  B.,  cx-Prcs..  71.  85. 

Lesseps.  Ferdimmd  de,  14,  21. 

Lil)raries:  Lima,  81;  La  Pa/,  1.39; 


no4- 


INDEX 


Santiago,  184;  Buenos  Aires, 
245,  246;  Asuncion,  269; 
Montevideo,  277;  Rio  Grande 
do  Sul,  291;  Sao  Paulo,  302; 
Rio  de  Janeiro,  321,  322; 
Bahia,  356;   Bridgetown,  358. 

Licenses,  Trading,  368-371. 

Liebig,  283. 

Lima,  59,  60,  61,  66-85. 

Limon  Bay,  15. 

Lircai,  178. 

Llai-Llai,  169,  199. 

Llamas,  123,  134. 

Llaiigamieo  Gorge,  57. 

Llanquihue  Lake,  195. 

Lluta  Valley,   147. 

Loa  R.,   153. 

Lopez:  Carlos  Antonio,  262;  Fran- 
cisco, 262,  268,  269. 

Los  Andes,  198,  199. 

Lota,  193,  194. 

Luque,  Hernando  de,  44. 

Llirin  Valley,  87,  88. 

Macchu  Pichu,  121. 

Mackenna,  215;  Benj.  Vicuna,  178, 

180. 
Mackenzie  College,  303. 
McKinley,  Mt.,  56,  107. 
Madera  or  Madeira-Mamore  R.  R., 

141,  351,  352. 
Magdalena,  87 ;  Cliannel,  196. 
Magellan,  Straits  of,  191,  195-197. 
Majes  Valley,  102. 
Maldonado,  283. 
Malleco   R.,    193. 
Mamore  R.,  141. 
Manaos,  348,  349. 
!Manzaiiillo,  20. 
Mapocho  R.,  160,  170,  183. 
Marajo,  347. 
Maranhao,  344,  345. 
:Marailon,  R.,  48,  97,  349. 


Mar  del  Plata,  25G. 

Markham,  Sir  Clements,  142,  143. 

Markets:  Panama,  32;  Lima,  74 
Arequipa,  104;  Sicuani,  111 
La  Paz,  137;  Santiago,  184 
Buenos  Aires,  251;  Montevi 
deo,  279;  Rio  de  .Janeiro,  319 
Para,  348. 

Matachin,  25  . 

Matarani  Bay,  100. 

Mate,  see  Yerba  Mate. 

MattoGrosso,  351,  352. 

Matucana,  90,  93. 

Maule  R.,  192. 

Maysi,  Cape,  8. 

Meiggs,  Henry,  54,  91 ;  ]Monte,  94. 

Melendez,  48. 

Mendoza,  191,  198,  205,  207,  208- 
211. 

Mendoza   Pedro  de.   217. 

Mercedario,  Mt.,  202. 

Mercedes,  216. 

Minas  Geraes,  341,  342. 

Mindi,  23. 

^Mineral  Springs:  Agua  de  Jesus, 
108;  Yura,  108,  109;  Puente 
del  Inca,  202;  Caclieuta,  207; 
Caxambu,  343. 

Mines:  Coal,  55,  193,  194;  Copper, 
51,  56,  96,  147;  Diamond,  342; 
Gold,  56,  141,  ,341;  Silver.  51, 
56,  96,  151,  152;  Vanadium, 
96. 

Miraflores:  Panama,  16,  26;  Peru, 
65. 

Miramar,  169. 

Misiones,  258,  260. 

Misti,  Mt.,  101,  102,  100,  107,  109. 

Mitre,  B.,  219. 

Moche,  53. 

Moleno,  147. 

Mollendo,  99,  100. 

Montana,  90,  97. 


INDEX 


395 


Monte  Lirio,  24. 

Montes,  President,  132. 

Montevideo,  192.  25G,  274-282,  285, 
280,    2!)1. 

Morgan,  Henry,  13. 

Moro,  58. 

Morococlia,  Do,  96. 

Morro  Vellio  Mine,  288,  342. 

Mt.  Hope,  23. 

Mountain  Sickness,  90,  100. 

Muelii  R.,  51. 

Muniz,  216. 

Museums:  Lima,  78;  La  Paz,  139; 
Santiago,  183,  189,  190; 
Buenos  Aires,  243-245;  Monte- 
video, 275,  276,  278;  Sao 
Paulo,  303;  Rio  de  Janeiro, 
317,319,  325;  Parfi,  347. 

Nanduty  Lace,  270. 

New  Gatiin,  23. 

New  Orleans,  8. 

Niagara,  259. 

Nictheroy,  308,  340. 

Nitrates,  157,  158. 

Nonibre  de  Dios,  13. 

North  Americans,  unpopular,  361. 

Novo  Friburgo,  340. 

Nusta  Espaiia,  122. 

Obrajes,  140. 

Old  Panama,  13,  34. 

Olientaytambo,  121. 

Open  Door,  216. 

Organ  Mts.,  307,  339. 

Oroya,  94,  95;  R.  R.,  89-95. 

Oruro,    151; — Antofagasta    R.    R., 

151-153. 
Osorno,  195. 
Ouro  Prcto,  342. 

Pacasinayo,  49. 
Pachaci'imae,  87-89. 


Pacific  Ocean,  43;    Discovered,   13. 

Packing,  365. 

Paita,  46,  47,  48. 

Palca,   98. 

Pampa  de  Arricros,  109. 

Paniparomas,  58. 

Pan   American    Railway,  91,   97. 

Panama:    Canal,    14-18;    City,   26- 

34;   Republic,  27;    Hats,  47. 
Pao  do  Assucar,  307,  331. 
Paqucta,  Isl.,  310  . 
Para,   140,  344,  345-349. 
Paraguay,     267-270,     380;     River, 

267,  353. 
Paraliyba,  344. 
Parana  R.,  213,  220,  257,  261,  264; 

City,  265;  State,  291. 
Paranagua,  293,  294. 
Pardo,  Manuel,  64. 
Pariiia,  Pt.,  46,  47. 
Patacamaya,   150. 
Patagonia,  213. 
Paulo  AiFonso  Falls,  357. 
Pedras,  357. 

Pedro  I,  288;   II.  289,  339. 
Pedro  Miguel,   16,  24,  26. 
Pelotas,  292. 
Penadas,  357. 
PonitcnU-s,  206. 

IVua,  Rocjue  Saenz,  President,  220. 
Pereiu's  98. 
Pernambueo,  343. 
Peru,  44-124,  373  376. 
Peru,  Alto,  130. 
Peruvian  Corporation,  98. 
Petropolis,  338-340. 
I'ieliinclia,  Mt.,  42. 
I'ieliu   Picliu.  Mt.,   101.    102,  106. 
Pileomayo  R.,  26S. 
Pillar.  Cape,  195. 
I'iranlias,  357. 
Pirauliy,  344. 
Piriapolis,  284. 


3f)6 


INDEX 


Pisac,  122. 

Pisiigua,  156,  157. 

Piura,  44,  47. 

Pizarro,    Francisco,    44,    '45,    62 ; 

Gonzalo,  129;  Hernando,  62. 
Ponta  Grossa,  291. 
Poopo  Lake,  124,  152,  155. 
Port  Antonio,  10. 
Port  au  Spain,  358. 
Port  Royal,  10. 
Port  Stanley,  192,  197. 
Porto  Alegre,  291,  292. 
Porto  Bello,   13,  21. 
Porto  Velho,  351,  352. 
Posadas,  257,  258,  267. 
Potosf,   148,  151. 
Prat,  Arturo,  64 
Prescott,  44. 
Prison,  278. 
Puca  Alpa,  97. 

Puente  del  Inca,  191,  201,  206. 
Puerto  Bermudez,  98. 
Puerto  Jessup,  98. 
Puerto  Montt,  192,  193,  195. 
Puerto  Pando,  140. 
Puna,  40. 
Puno,  123,  124. 
Punta  Arenas,  192,  193,  196. 
Punta  Ballena,  283. 
Punta  de  las  Vacas,  200. 
Pygmy  City,  93. 


Quichiias,   124,   12" 
Quito,  39,  42. 


135.. 


Railroads:  Panama,  23;  Guaya- 
quil-Quito, 40-42 ;  Paita-Mar- 
anon,  48;  Chimbote-Recuaj^ 
54;  Central  Railway  of  Peru 
(Oroya),  91;  Cerro  de  Pasco 
R.  R.,  95;  Southern  Railway 
of  Peru,  99,  109';  Guaqui-La 
Paz,  127;  Arica-La  Paz,  146; 


Aiitofa^fasta  -  Oruro-La  Paz, 
150;  Arica-Tacna,  155;  Val- 
paraiso-Santiago, 169;  Ciiilian 
Central  Railway,  192;  Trans- 
Andine  Railway,  198,  213; 
Buenos  Aires-Posadas-Asun- 
cion, 257 ;  Montevideo-Sao 
Paulo,  290;  Santos-Sao  Paulo, 
298;  Sao  Paulo-Rio  de  Ja- 
neiro, 305 ;  Madeira-Mamorfi, 
351. 

Recife,  343. 

Recuay,  56,  97  . 

Reloncavi   Gulf,    195. 

Rimac  R.,  Valley,  46,  91,  92,  99. 

Rio  Blanco,  200. 

Rio  de  Janeiro,  290,  295,  305,  306- 
340. 

Rio  de  Janeiro  Harbor,  306-308, 
309-311. 

Rio  Grande  do  Norte,  344. 

Rio  Grande  do  Sul,  290,  291,  292. 

Riobamba,  40,  351. 

Root,  Secretary,  71,  72,  78. 

Rosario,  264. 

Rubber,  349,  350, 

Rufino,  215. 

Rugs,  123. 

Sacsahuaman,   114,   116,   119,   120. 

Sajama,  Mt.,  41,  150. 

Salaverry,  46,  50. 

Samanco,  58. 

San  Bias  Indians,  22. 

San  Cristobal,  see  Cerro. 

San  Ignacio  Mini,  261. 

San  Juan,  9. 

San   Lorenzo  Fort,   22. 

San    Luis,   214,    344. 

San  Martin,  General,  Jose  de,  03, 

64,  207,  219,  228. 
San  Ramon,  98. 
San  Salvador,  8. 


INDEX 


397 


Sand  Dunes,  101. 

Santa  E.,  54. 

Santa  Ana,  201. 

Santa  Catharina,  292. 

Santa  F6,  265,  266. 

Santa  Lucia,  170,  179, 

Santa  Rosa,  214. 

Santa  Rosa  de  los  Andes,  199. 

Santiago,   170-190,   198. 

Santiago  de  Cuba,  9. 

Santos,  286,  287,  280,  290,  205- 
298. 

Sao  Paulo,  295-305;  City,  300-304, 
343. 

Sao  Salvador,  354. 

Sfio  Vicente,  287,  297. 

Sapyranga,  292. 

Saracociia  Lake,  199. 

Sarmiento,  Dr.,  220. 

Sergipe,  343. 

Serra  do  5Iar,  298,  339, 

Siieppard,  T.  Clive,  129. 

Sicuani,  111. 

Smelters,  90,  97. 

Smyth  Channel,  192. 

Sorata,  144-146. 

Soroche,  90,  106, 

South  American  Trade,  300-382,     - 

Southern  R.  R.  of  Peru,  99-110. 

Spanish  Language,  3, 

Steamship  Lines :  To  Panama,  from 
New  York,  6,  7;  from  New 
Orleans,  8;  from  San  Francis- 
co, 11;  from  Europe,  11;  Pan- 
ama to  Guayaquil,  Callao,  Val- 
paraiso, 30,  50;  Callao  to  Val- 
paraiso, Montevideo,  and  Eu- 
rope, 99,  191,  192;  Parana 
River,  257,  258,  263,  264; 
Buenos  Aires  to  Montevideo, 
204;  Buenos  Aires  or  Monte- 
video to  Rio  de  Janeiro  and 
New  York,  289,  290,  341;  Rio 
de  Janeiro  to  Europe,  341. 


Stevens,  John  F.,  15,  25. 
Sucre,   149. 
Sugar  Estates,  50,  61. 
Supe,  51,  88. 


Tabornilla,  25, 

Tacna,  05,  155, 

Taica,  192. 

Talcaiiuano,  194. 

Taltal,  156. 

Tamarugal,   157. 

Tambo  Valley,  101. 

Tarapaca,  04,  65,  157. 

Tarma,  97,  98. 

Tax  on  Samples,  368-371. 

Theatres:   Panama,  30;  Lima,   74; 

La  Paz,    139;    Santiago,    184; 

Buenos  Aires,  248,  249;  Santa 

T6,  266;  Montevideo,  275,  276; 

Sao     Paulo,     301 ;      Rio     de 

Janeiro,      323;      Para,      347; 

Manaos,  349. 
Tlierezopolis,  340. 
Tiahuanaco,  127,  142,  143. 
Ticlio,  94. 

Tierra  del  Fuego,  197. 
Tigre  R.,  254. 
Tijuca,  Mt.,  337,  338. 
Tingo,  102. 
Tirapata,   110,   111. 
Titicaea  Lake,  124-127,  l.")5. 
Toro  Pt.,  22, 
Trans.  Andine  R.  R.,  198-208,  213- 

217. 
Trinidad,  358. 
Trujillo,  44.  50,  51, 
Tueumaii,  219. 
Tulumayii    i;..   Hi). 
Tumhe.s,  44,  40. 
Tu|iae  Amaru,  1  IS,  \:w. 
Tupi/.a.    l.">2. 
Tupungato,  Mt..  2Ul,  202. 


;{■;;; 


INDEX 


Ucayali  R.,  07,  122,  349. 

Uhle,  Dr.  Max,  S!i. 

Urcos,   111. 

Unifio,  2!)0. 

Urubanibu,    121. 

Uruguay,  279-285,  380;  R.,  220. 

Uspallata,  206. 

Uyuni,  152. 


Valdivia,  194;  Pedro  de,  170,  187, 

188,  195. 
Valparaiso,  36,  99,  1()3-168,  192. 
Valverde,  Father,  45. 
Vedia,  215. 
Venezuela,  2. 
Vespucci,  Amerigo,  287. 
Viacha,  128,  147,  150. 
Viceroys,  62. 

Victoria,  343;  Falls,  259. 
Vicunas,  123,  155. 
Vilcabamba  R.,  122. 
Vilcamayu,  111. 
Vilcanota,  111. 
Villa  Bella,  352. 
Villa  Devoto,  216. 
Villa  Enearnacion.  263. 
Villa  Mercedes,  214. 


Villa  Murtinho,  352. 

Villa  Velha,  294. 

ViliazOn,  Kiiodoro,  President,  132. 

Vina  del  Mar,  16K,  171. 

Virgcnes,  Cape,  195,  197. 

Vitcos,  122. 

Vitor,  102. 

Wallace,  J.  F.,  14,  15. 

Waterfalls:  Iguassfi,  257,  258;  La 
Guayra,  260 ;  Uberaponga, 
260;  Herval,  292;  Paulo  Af- 
fonso,  357. 

Watling's  Isl.,  8. 

Western   Tourists,    11. 

White  Range,  56. 

Whymper,  Edward,  41. 

Windward  Cliannel,  8. 

Yankee  Peril,  361. 

Yellow  Fever.  39. 

Verba  Mate,  270,  271,  294. 

Yucay,  122. 

Yungas,  140. 

Yungay,  56,  57. 

Yura,  108,  109. 

Zurbriggen,  20L 


A  SEARCH  FORTHE 
APEX  OF  AMERICA 

HIGH  MOUNTAIN-CLIMBING  IN  PERU  l^ 
BOLIVIA  WITH  SOME  OBSERVATIONS 
ON  THE  COUNTRY  AND  PEOPLE  BELOW 

By  Annie  S.  Peck,  A.M. 

Author  of  "1  he  South  American  Four" 

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^  In  her  ascent  of  Mt.  Huascaran  (21,812  ft.\  Miss  Peck 
^L.  reached  an  altitude  1400  feet  higher  than  Aft.  McKinley 
and  greater  than  any  man  in  America  has  yet  {1916)  attained. 

An  amazingly  interesting  book  of  South  American  exploration. 
— Literary  Digest,  New   York. 

Here  is  a  book  which  no  mountaineer  should  miss,  for  it  is  a 
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Peru. —  The  Spectator,  London. 

There  is  not  a  dull  page  in  the  book,  and  the  subject  is  so  en- 
tirely new  the  reader  is  held  with  intense  interest  through  nearly 
400  pages. — Portland  {Ore.)  Journal. 

A  remarkable  record  of  skill  and  endurance.  The  Swiss  guides 
did  not  realize  the  warnings  she  gave  them  of  the  great  danger 
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of  both  hands  and  half  of  one  foot. — The  Athenaeum,  London. 

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indomitable  pluck  in  discouraging  circumstances,  it  reveals  its 
author  as  the  possessor  of  an  enviable  optimism  and  of  a  saving 
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Miss  Peck  by  this  exploit  attained  an  altitude  1500  feet  higher 
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London. 

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climbed  well,  sometimes  magnificently. — The  Academy,  London. 


South  America 

and    Its   Golden   Opportunities 


Have  You  Heard 

■ — about  the  boom  in  Cuba?  How 
all  Cuban  produce  has  advanced 
in  price?  How  a  tract  of  Havana 
residential  real  estate  advanced 
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000  in  three  years'  time? 

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—that  Brazil  is  200,000  square 
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— the  population  of  Buenos  Aires 
will  probably  exceed  that  of 
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— there  is  more  natural  wealth  in 
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A  JOURNAL  FOR  ALL  INTERESTED 
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Free  Spaiiish  Lessons 

Each  issue  contains  a  lesson  in 
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The 

PAN-AMERICAN 
MAGAZINE 

70  FIFTH  AVENUE        NEW  YORK  CITY 

Published  monthly  since  1900 

\V.  W.   RASOR,  Publisher  and  Managing  Editor 
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